Clean my alloys and tyres in very much the same way other than I’ve never used APC. I have just bought, Bilt Hamer Surfex HD and will give it a go next time. I finish the clean with Gyeon Wet Coat to give it some protection. Enjoyed the video. Perry
Don't understand why people are crying about the APC step, multiple passes of active wheel cleaner gets bloody expensive. You can see what you're dealing with in the way of stubborn brake dust or even find you don't need to use an active cleaner at all. Dedicated Tyre Cleaner has to be my favourite purchase recently, you can use a hogs hair brush in a couple of passes instead of killing my arms with upto 5+ passes with APC and a heavy scrub brush. The pump foamers are complete wank though, way too much money and effort for too little benefit imo.
Yeah I regret getting my pump up foamer off johns recommendation but it's my own fault end of the day. Live and learn. There's nothing the foamer does that the snow foam canon can't do. Only maybe when doing door shuts or interior cleaning maybe it will come in handy or jobs around the house. All in all though it's a luxury product and it doesn't make any difference in results when using an APC like Surfex HD. Using a standard trigger head sprayer will get the same results as a foamer. With Surfex HD, you just need to wet out a surface for it to work.
I always pre-wash the wheel & tyre with BH Surfex HD. it's such an amazing product, and its all about removing as much dirt as possible before any contact cleaning.
Been using Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel as a fallout remover for some time, I doubt there is anything that can beat that for fallout remover. You have to be a bit careful of the wheel centre caps though.
Very good video Jon as always. I think the secret to clean wheels is to keep on top of them ie cleam them regularly, if you don't allow the dirt to bake on, it comes off a lot easier.
The secret to keeping a car clean, any car, is simple regular weekly cleans, and not just the wheels. You really don't need any fallout remover, you don't need any citrus pre-wash either. I now just use a snow foam for the wheels first, but may now try an APC instead, then I use a good shampoo like Adams Shampoo, then give the wheels a good seeing to, with my Wheel Woolies, and not any cheap Chinese knock offs, hog hair brushes, vikan brush, Tuff brush for the tyres. Jet wash the whole car, clean with mitts and bob's not your tranny, but your uncle, as good as new. You need at least 1-2 hours to do this properly. Not every one can allocate this amount of time or regularity. On new cars you don't need wax, nor a detailer nor any ceramic protection. Older cars, yes. I have started to cut back on the products I use, as I found other methods, techniques that work the same with less. Every amateur detailer has a different need, time, level of cleanliness. Do what you feel gives you the desired affect of cleanliness. Regular cleaning is simple, works, and doesn't have to cost a fortune.
@@theflash4956 Yes a lot of truth for sure. I would say a fallout remover is a necessary tool to use even if it’s every 3 months or something similar. I use the snow foam first method too then a dedicated wheel shampoo. I disagree new cars don’t need any protection at all…they need it all the more - solid protection can and will help protect and prolong that new finish and there are options out there that are not expensive.
@@theflash4956 I use Bilt Hamber wheel cleaner, Bilt Hamber auto foam, and a cheap shampoo (as I never let my car get too dirty), and after a jetwash and snow foam, the car is basically clean anyway. The shampoo is just to help dissolve the bugs to be honest. If you keep your car with a decent layer of wax on it (I use Bilt Hamber double speed wax) then it stays clean and is easy to wash. I'd use wax on a new car if I had one, because protection is the secret to keeping the paint in great condition BEFORE you need to 'detail' it with a DA and have to abrasive polish the clear coat. Wax is the most important thing imo even on a new car.
@@DjNikGnashers I use Bilt Hammer auto foam, with Adams Shampoo and will go back to Adams Wheel cleaner or try an APC. I used a paste wax years ago, found the application a pain, the cure time, the longevity just wasn't right for me. I use Sansom's Hydra and Sansom Detailer. The Hydra is great, the Detailer is OK (both easy to apply), but will retire it, as my silver car really has trouble showing off a shiny, gloss effect, unlike, blue, red, green, black cars etc, unless in an underground car park with lights shining on it. Day time nothing. Run out of Hydra so will use the detailer as that also has a great hydrophobic element to it. I'm not against protection protects, but don't think new cars need them if you keep it for say 3 years. Other variables, garage or driveway, where you live, the weather, how many miles you do weekly etc. Don't forget, the paint is never ever protected by wax, detailers, or ceramic coatings, these are temporary products. Clear coat is pretty much permanent, but will need polishing. All these products sit on top of the clear coat. All cars have a layer of clear coat on top of the paint, the paint colour sits on top of a primer coat and then the bare metal panel. It's the refraction of light, that makes wax, detailers or ceramic coatings shine, between the protection product and the clear coat. You can hand polish or machine polish clear coat, to get the best shiny, glossy finish. Protection products enhance it a little bit, but machine polishing is the best way. The UK weather does not help with waxes. The weather seems to undo the work put into laying the wax. Its great to hear different methods, different thoughts/ideas to help each other decide which is the best for detailers to try and experiment. I think ceramic coatings are great for wheels. I just about manage to wash my car every 2-4 weeks.
Can you do a video on your opinion on the best brushes etc to clean awkward wheels? My 2017 STI has the most awkward wheels to clean which makes them time consuming
After a decade worth of brake dust on a 190k+ Merc e class that has been neglected, I worked on the wheels with various wheel cleaners (Meguiar's Ultimate wheel cleaner, Turtle Wax tire and wheel cleaner, Armour All Extreme wheel cleaner, Carpro Trix, Soft 99 iron decon cleaner) , and claying. I don't have the option to remove the wheel off the car so I've done everything with the wheel on. I cover the brake disk and calipers with some newspaper or an old cloth when using the chemicals. I managed to remove nearly 90% of all the stains. There are still black stains on the edges of the spokes especially on the front wheels. I guess the last resort is to try some acid wheel cleaner. Any good recommendations? Thanks Jon with your videos as always.
To get the job done right you’ve got to remove the wheel and no doubt it’s a task that consumes a lot of time. Finish with ceramic coating to repel brake dust.
Funnily enough I've just done mine and my misses today. I mist on some water then spritz Adam's wheel and tyre cleaner to foam up, its strips everything and really hits that tyre bloom hard leaving a perfect surfaces to either apply autoglym high performance tyre gel and left over superguard alloy wheel protector, before the protection stage I snowfoam with BH touchless, hand wash again with BH car shampoo. Strange combination but it all comes together. I use similar brushes but I use a softer wheel face brush from Muc-off (for bike frames), B/H hog hair detail brush (was a bargain from BH website £1.50). Resulting in pristine alloys and tyres. 👍
tell you what i did today as the weather was a bit warmer but still cloudy, one alloy at a time. RINSE-FALLOUT REMOVER-APC OR WHEEL CLEANER-SCRUB ALLOY-WASH ALLOY-RINSE WHEEL AND TYRE.
My daily does 3.5k+ miles a month, barely gets a wash but did alloys a few days ago and it absolutely ruined my barrel brush... Covered in grease and crap that wouldn't come off so have to order a new one from in2detailing...
I tend to use meguiars ultimate wheel cleaner, with auto finesse wheel soap, and a citrus pre cleaner for tyres and arches. and laying a snow foam over the top.
Jon. Quality tips as always. I bought the two or three Vikans. The stubby brush. And soft brush. Would you recommend any. I’m lost with the softer products
@@Ianw236 As soon as i've cleaned/rinsed them, I spray the discs. Maybe you've over diluted? Mind you, I think the dilution ratio is 2-5% in water, so you'd struggle to over dilute I guess 🤔.
Your driveway must be completely dirty from all that cleaning. What type of product do you use to clean your drive to stop cross contamination back onto the car ?
Hi John, great video as always! would you do anything different for gloss black alloys? I tend to soak with a citrus or APC first before applying Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel (if needed) and always rinse my barrel brush regularly. Thanks.
I always say the best protection for your alloys is YOU the owner regularly cleaning them. Gyeon’s wheel cleaner looked great - still use AutoWheel though! I’d start from the top when doing barrels so all the dirt drips down. If they were coated what would your approach be then ?
Surfex HD for tyres and wheel pre-wash, then Korrosol as my fallout remover of choice. Wheel Woolies for the barrels and faces and an Ali Express knock off Vikan brush for the tyres. 👍.
My lazy way of cleaning is I go straight in with bilt hmaber auto wheels let it sit for about 3 mins then spray over with apc or another wheel cleaner that doesn't have iron remover like car pro bilberry and then agitate it with a variety of brushes then rinse wheel then spray wax the alloys with turtle wax dry n shine for some protection then blow dry it then add some tyre shine I think I might do it your way next where you spray apc first to get rid of tge excess
I’ve been asking questions of myself with this. So APC first as strong as 1 in 3 which is cheap to start . Light quick rinse off…. Then onto acid wheel and fallout mixed together ??? And drill brush off. I notice the brush will scour the alloys tho. I’m dealing with sub 3k cars so alloys I mostly want them super clean and would rather not the scour / scratch but can accept it my price range cars. I’ve no idea what I’d do where dealing with a concours car.
hi Jon great video again, I'm going to share or show my clients this as to why it takes that long to clean them not like the scratch and wash down the road, with out using acids,👍
I thought it wasn’t advisable to regularly hit the wheels with a fallout but a few are now adding it to the wheel cleaner 🤷🏼♂️ so surely you then need 2 wheel cleaners to alternate , I wouldn’t hit my wheels with a fallout every wash prefer to have a separate fallout and cleaner
@@ForensicDetailing ok thanks. What dilution would be best and could you do a video on using extractors on carpets and what to use in them and what dilution is best?
I’ve been using a fallout remover for my wheels everytime I wash the car. It’s a 19 year old car but in the corners next to the spokes on the alloys there’s still brake dust build up. It’s gradually going,but very slowly. Any further tips you can give? I’ve tried a non scratch pad but that doesn’t work,didn’t want to use something too abrasive,just want them to look clean
@@sebster6031 I do spray on dry. Maybe it’s the fallout remover I’m using (brain dead detailing) pretty sure it’s a rebranded one tbh and only purchased it as it had 50% off, it still cost £12.50 litre
Genuine question - is it the dirt on the tyre “browning off” or might it potentially be the chemicals in the product drawing necessary oils out of the tyre wall? 🤔
I think the natural oils in rubber come out in the wash process anyway and through microscopic just falling away when driving, only by tiny amounts obviously. Tyre browning is sometimes called tyre blooming, its just a form of oxidation from a mix of fall out and rubber that naturally ages. When the bloom is sufficiently removed, it allows the pores of the tyre to open up and allowing a decent tyre dressing to fill the voids on the surface of the tyre, thus protecting the tyre surface from UV oxidation and fall out from brakes tar and general road grime which will cause tyres to crack and age over time. I makes the tyre look new and adds to the overal look of a clean car. So it delays aging process and fills those voids with protection. You could use Carpro black out if you've got deep pockets for a better protection system 💯
hi, can I ask a question that is something that really annoys me! How do I stop my brake discs from rusting evertime I wash the car? Even using rust inhibiting cleaners after rinsing with water corrosion still happens. Any advice would be great! Thanks!
some brake discs are really prone to corroding and you wont be able to stop it. others less so. Lots of OEM discs have like a matt primer on the centre hub part and the brake dust sticks to this and beds in. Ive just had knew rear discs on the golf and I know that no matter what I do really they will crud up over the next year. The best thing is to get really good brakes with a satin paint on the hub and then just try and keep on top of it if you can.
@@ForensicDetailing many thanks for your reply. Good advice, I’m due new brakes in a couple of months so I will keep this in mind. Keep up the channel, and the fantastic reviews. 👍
A favourite tool for me is a cheap washmit with fingers, like a glove. So easy to follow most contours of the wheel. Add a brush for the barrels and it's about all I need plus some APC and BH Autowheel. Now, my brush is both getting old and is difficult to squeeze between the barrel and the brake disk. Anybody have any suggestions for a replacement?
What would you use to clean out the disc vent holes? I went on holiday and came back and like a fool i am, ignored the light rust build up on my brake discs which quickly filled them in, ive tried high pressure hose, bilt hamber, is there anything short of getting a drill bit and hand remeeming them ?
hard to say mate. I would poke at them with teh stubby first. I dont think I would drill into them. I think just leave it mate. I was going to suggest a round file. but these are brakes I would not like do anything with corrosion in the holes.
just jab whatever into the holes, drill bit, screwdriver etc. You aren't going to affect he braking system unless you start going nuts with a corded drill and making new holes 😂
Great vid John as always. Wondered have you ever done a vids series of only using one brand from end to end process such as Autoglm, or BH etc. From pre wash, cleaning in and out to paint prep and correction.
Ive not done this mate, luke from tranquility used to do this I think its a pretty good idea. but its a bit like a brand review I guess and Ive not done brand reviews for a while.
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for the reply, I know we all have our favourite products, mix and match etc. Just seeing the total process might be interesting then comparing maybe between brands.
Thanks for another really useful instructional video. I've coated my alloy wheels with Gyeon Rim, the question I have is what type of products can be applied from their range that won't damage the coat? Can you use a fallout remover for example?
I’m always a bit concerned about using the fallout remover with the wheels on the car and the effect it could have on the wheel hub/brake disc. As you show it’s impossible to avoid some overspray.
Great video Jon. I’m putting a set of black sawtooths on my defender with diamond cut faces. Would these products be ok on diamond cut wheels? Also what ceramic coating would be best regardless of price for maximum protection against corrosion on the diamond cut surfaces?
Ya dude these products would be fine to use on diamond cut rims. I mean I don’t think you’d need to use an iron remover on fresh shoes, but when/if you do it’s a PH neutral product so no worries. Just use whatever shampoo or apc you want, no acids and don’t use high alkaline products undiluted. If money is no object, I’d suggest looking into Kamikaze Stance, for a rim coating.
Clean my alloys and tyres in very much the same way other than I’ve never used APC. I have just bought, Bilt Hamer Surfex HD and will give it a go next time. I finish the clean with Gyeon Wet Coat to give it some protection. Enjoyed the video. Perry
Don't understand why people are crying about the APC step, multiple passes of active wheel cleaner gets bloody expensive. You can see what you're dealing with in the way of stubborn brake dust or even find you don't need to use an active cleaner at all. Dedicated Tyre Cleaner has to be my favourite purchase recently, you can use a hogs hair brush in a couple of passes instead of killing my arms with upto 5+ passes with APC and a heavy scrub brush. The pump foamers are complete wank though, way too much money and effort for too little benefit imo.
Yeah I regret getting my pump up foamer off johns recommendation but it's my own fault end of the day. Live and learn. There's nothing the foamer does that the snow foam canon can't do. Only maybe when doing door shuts or interior cleaning maybe it will come in handy or jobs around the house. All in all though it's a luxury product and it doesn't make any difference in results when using an APC like Surfex HD. Using a standard trigger head sprayer will get the same results as a foamer. With Surfex HD, you just need to wet out a surface for it to work.
I always pre-wash the wheel & tyre with BH Surfex HD. it's such an amazing product, and its all about removing as much dirt as possible before any contact cleaning.
What sort of dilution do you use?
@@sum12k6 Roughly 1/9. I just eye guide some in lol
Same as 👍🏻
The best for me. Then follow up with BH autowheel for the embedded brake dust if necessary
Good tip, I bought some for the interior but haven’t used it yet
Been using Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel as a fallout remover for some time, I doubt there is anything that can beat that for fallout remover. You have to be a bit careful of the wheel centre caps though.
Is it best to remove them to avoid damage from the product?
Very good video Jon as always.
I think the secret to clean wheels is to keep on top of them ie cleam them regularly, if you don't allow the dirt to bake on, it comes off a lot easier.
Amen. I always say the best protection for your alloys is YOU.
The secret to keeping a car clean, any car, is simple regular weekly cleans, and not just the wheels. You really don't need any fallout remover, you don't need any citrus pre-wash either. I now just use a snow foam for the wheels first, but may now try an APC instead, then I use a good shampoo like Adams Shampoo, then give the wheels a good seeing to, with my Wheel Woolies, and not any cheap Chinese knock offs, hog hair brushes, vikan brush, Tuff brush for the tyres. Jet wash the whole car, clean with mitts and bob's not your tranny, but your uncle, as good as new. You need at least 1-2 hours to do this properly. Not every one can allocate this amount of time or regularity. On new cars you don't need wax, nor a detailer nor any ceramic protection. Older cars, yes. I have started to cut back on the products I use, as I found other methods, techniques that work the same with less. Every amateur detailer has a different need, time, level of cleanliness. Do what you feel gives you the desired affect of cleanliness. Regular cleaning is simple, works, and doesn't have to cost a fortune.
@@theflash4956 Yes a lot of truth for sure. I would say a fallout remover is a necessary tool to use even if it’s every 3 months or something similar. I use the snow foam first method too then a dedicated wheel shampoo. I disagree new cars don’t need any protection at all…they need it all the more - solid protection can and will help protect and prolong that new finish and there are options out there that are not expensive.
@@theflash4956 I use Bilt Hamber wheel cleaner, Bilt Hamber auto foam, and a cheap shampoo (as I never let my car get too dirty), and after a jetwash and snow foam, the car is basically clean anyway.
The shampoo is just to help dissolve the bugs to be honest.
If you keep your car with a decent layer of wax on it (I use Bilt Hamber double speed wax) then it stays clean and is easy to wash. I'd use wax on a new car if I had one, because protection is the secret to keeping the paint in great condition BEFORE you need to 'detail' it with a DA and have to abrasive polish the clear coat. Wax is the most important thing imo even on a new car.
@@DjNikGnashers I use Bilt Hammer auto foam, with Adams Shampoo and will go back to Adams Wheel cleaner or try an APC. I used a paste wax years ago, found the application a pain, the cure time, the longevity just wasn't right for me. I use Sansom's Hydra and Sansom Detailer. The Hydra is great, the Detailer is OK (both easy to apply), but will retire it, as my silver car really has trouble showing off a shiny, gloss effect, unlike, blue, red, green, black cars etc, unless in an underground car park with lights shining on it. Day time nothing. Run out of Hydra so will use the detailer as that also has a great hydrophobic element to it. I'm not against protection protects, but don't think new cars need them if you keep it for say 3 years. Other variables, garage or driveway, where you live, the weather, how many miles you do weekly etc. Don't forget, the paint is never ever protected by wax, detailers, or ceramic coatings, these are temporary products. Clear coat is pretty much permanent, but will need polishing. All these products sit on top of the clear coat. All cars have a layer of clear coat on top of the paint, the paint colour sits on top of a primer coat and then the bare metal panel. It's the refraction of light, that makes wax, detailers or ceramic coatings shine, between the protection product and the clear coat. You can hand polish or machine polish clear coat, to get the best shiny, glossy finish. Protection products enhance it a little bit, but machine polishing is the best way. The UK weather does not help with waxes. The weather seems to undo the work put into laying the wax. Its great to hear different methods, different thoughts/ideas to help each other decide which is the best for detailers to try and experiment. I think ceramic coatings are great for wheels. I just about manage to wash my car every 2-4 weeks.
One of your information and good videos in awhile.
Just brought both products and the cloths, must say they are fantastic
Cheers
Nice helpful info where did you get your blaster and barrel cleaning brushes...? Tia
Can you do a video on your opinion on the best brushes etc to clean awkward wheels? My 2017 STI has the most awkward wheels to clean which makes them time consuming
Timely video Jon... 'new' E92 about to get her boots done this afternoon.
After a decade worth of brake dust on a 190k+ Merc e class that has been neglected, I worked on the wheels with various wheel cleaners (Meguiar's Ultimate wheel cleaner, Turtle Wax tire and wheel cleaner, Armour All Extreme wheel cleaner, Carpro Trix, Soft 99 iron decon cleaner) , and claying. I don't have the option to remove the wheel off the car so I've done everything with the wheel on. I cover the brake disk and calipers with some newspaper or an old cloth when using the chemicals. I managed to remove nearly 90% of all the stains. There are still black stains on the edges of the spokes especially on the front wheels. I guess the last resort is to try some acid wheel cleaner. Any good recommendations? Thanks Jon with your videos as always.
KKD Devils Juice
Smashing content as always John, would be nice seeing some good old BMW content and detailing old cars 🚗
To get the job done right you’ve got to remove the wheel and no doubt it’s a task that consumes a lot of time. Finish with ceramic coating to repel brake dust.
Funnily enough I've just done mine and my misses today. I mist on some water then spritz Adam's wheel and tyre cleaner to foam up, its strips everything and really hits that tyre bloom hard leaving a perfect surfaces to either apply autoglym high performance tyre gel and left over superguard alloy wheel protector, before the protection stage I snowfoam with BH touchless, hand wash again with BH car shampoo. Strange combination but it all comes together. I use similar brushes but I use a softer wheel face brush from Muc-off (for bike frames), B/H hog hair detail brush (was a bargain from BH website £1.50). Resulting in pristine alloys and tyres. 👍
10:12 I jumped and looked round to see if my little boy was crying xD
tell you what i did today as the weather was a bit warmer but still cloudy, one alloy at a time. RINSE-FALLOUT REMOVER-APC OR WHEEL CLEANER-SCRUB ALLOY-WASH ALLOY-RINSE WHEEL AND TYRE.
Brakebuster followed by Gyeon wet...keeps the wheels clean enough until the next wash
Jon if you were trying to make a thumbnail would you recommend going straight in with an iron fallout?
Yes m8 🙂
Just found these products I have been using auto bead a newish product but wow very impressed with geo think I’m going to get some products thanks Jon
My daily does 3.5k+ miles a month, barely gets a wash but did alloys a few days ago and it absolutely ruined my barrel brush... Covered in grease and crap that wouldn't come off so have to order a new one from in2detailing...
I tend to use meguiars ultimate wheel cleaner, with auto finesse wheel soap, and a citrus pre cleaner for tyres and arches. and laying a snow foam over the top.
Jon. Quality tips as always. I bought the two or three Vikans. The stubby brush. And soft brush. Would you recommend any. I’m lost with the softer products
Good Job. I use to gyeon product and finish Atom-Mac BH on the break. Its great!
Agree! Atom Mac is fantastic at holding back the oxidisation on the discs 👏
Are you using atom mac before the cleaning ?
I have some but it doesn’t seem to work when I have used it after cleaning
@@Ianw236 As soon as i've cleaned/rinsed them, I spray the discs. Maybe you've over diluted? Mind you, I think the dilution ratio is 2-5% in water, so you'd struggle to over dilute I guess 🤔.
Lovely Jubbly video Jon. Goodyear tyres made in Poland what's the world coming to.
Can I ask where you get the blue brush from?
Hi John .... great vid as always .... dont you worry about knocking off wheel balancing weights when using the barrel brush ?
dont think its happened to me yet mate but it could be a risk
Your driveway must be completely dirty from all that cleaning.
What type of product do you use to clean your drive to stop cross contamination back onto the car ?
mate like once a year ill just blast it down and weedkiller it.
@@ForensicDetailing Spear & Jackson concentrated weed killer in your Spear & Jackson pump sprayer by any chance? 😆
Gtechniq W6 is an insanely good fallout remover I use on wheels.
Hi John, great video as always! would you do anything different for gloss black alloys? I tend to soak with a citrus or APC first before applying Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel (if needed) and always rinse my barrel brush regularly. Thanks.
yer just clean often mate dont let the brake dust bed in and no strong chems because if the finish hazes at all it really shows on gloss black.
Alu devil from tuga is the best wheel cleaner. Can you do a demo John?
I see that you had akarcher power washer. What water nozzle are you using?
Just like to know on the price of the the three products you just used 🙏
The AA one from home bargains is the best I’ve used and I’ve tried loads . 3.99 for 500ml
I've found it to be a decent fallout remover too, I'm testing out the Ez car care range on a full detail later..
The shampoo and wax is decent too, I was very surprised given it was cheap
Can you used an air compressor to blow off the water in those small areas?
I always say the best protection for your alloys is YOU the owner regularly cleaning them. Gyeon’s wheel cleaner looked great - still use AutoWheel though! I’d start from the top when doing barrels so all the dirt drips down. If they were coated what would your approach be then ?
prolly just APC and FR once every couple of months chris.
Surfex HD for tyres and wheel pre-wash, then Korrosol as my fallout remover of choice. Wheel Woolies for the barrels and faces and an Ali Express knock off Vikan brush for the tyres. 👍.
You can smell that Korrosol for ages after on the car. It’s brutal
That is some serious wheel cleaning & more gyon products for me to get
great John. thanks a lot. great for bikes as well ...
How can you not mention BH Auto Wheel when doing a video like this? Rules of advertisement John?
whats your thoughts on turtle wax redline wheel cleaner compared to Maguires ultimate wheel cleaner?
Have you done a video on how to clean painted black wheels?
Huge fan of the gyeon wheel cleaner works great after a track day. I did a review on my latest video 📹 great video again jon
My lazy way of cleaning is I go straight in with bilt hmaber auto wheels let it sit for about 3 mins then spray over with apc or another wheel cleaner that doesn't have iron remover like car pro bilberry and then agitate it with a variety of brushes then rinse wheel then spray wax the alloys with turtle wax dry n shine for some protection then blow dry it then add some tyre shine
I think I might do it your way next where you spray apc first to get rid of tge excess
Are iron removers safe on bare skin?
I’ve been asking questions of myself with this. So APC first as strong as 1 in 3 which is cheap to start . Light quick rinse off…. Then onto acid wheel and fallout mixed together ??? And drill brush off. I notice the brush will scour the alloys tho. I’m dealing with sub 3k cars so alloys I mostly want them super clean and would rather not the scour / scratch but can accept it my price range cars. I’ve no idea what I’d do where dealing with a concours car.
hi Jon great video again, I'm going to share or show my clients this as to why it takes that long to clean them not like the scratch and wash down the road, with out using acids,👍
Very much obliged Sir God bless. Take care😇🙏❤️
I thought it wasn’t advisable to regularly hit the wheels with a fallout but a few are now adding it to the wheel cleaner 🤷🏼♂️ so surely you then need 2 wheel cleaners to alternate , I wouldn’t hit my wheels with a fallout every wash prefer to have a separate fallout and cleaner
What carpet cleaner would you recommend for use in an extractor and what dilution ratio would you recommend?
Any upholstery safe APC. The Vax solution works well if In Doubt
@@ForensicDetailing ok thanks. What dilution would be best and could you do a video on using extractors on carpets and what to use in them and what dilution is best?
I’ve been using a fallout remover for my wheels everytime I wash the car. It’s a 19 year old car but in the corners next to the spokes on the alloys there’s still brake dust build up. It’s gradually going,but very slowly. Any further tips you can give? I’ve tried a non scratch pad but that doesn’t work,didn’t want to use something too abrasive,just want them to look clean
You are spraying the fallout remover on dry? Because that really gives it an extra kick, comparing to going on wet.
Spray bilt hamber auto wheel on dry without a pre-rinse, let its soak for a couple mins and then rinse off with a pressure washer
I have the same problem! Just can't seem to get those stubborn stains off completely.
@@sebster6031 I do spray on dry. Maybe it’s the fallout remover I’m using (brain dead detailing) pretty sure it’s a rebranded one tbh and only purchased it as it had 50% off, it still cost £12.50 litre
@@rezi420 I may well try that when my current fallout remover runs out. Think my current one is a rebottled one and they’re charging top dollar for it
Genuine question - is it the dirt on the tyre “browning off” or might it potentially be the chemicals in the product drawing necessary oils out of the tyre wall? 🤔
I think the natural oils in rubber come out in the wash process anyway and through microscopic just falling away when driving, only by tiny amounts obviously. Tyre browning is sometimes called tyre blooming, its just a form of oxidation from a mix of fall out and rubber that naturally ages. When the bloom is sufficiently removed, it allows the pores of the tyre to open up and allowing a decent tyre dressing to fill the voids on the surface of the tyre, thus protecting the tyre surface from UV oxidation and fall out from brakes tar and general road grime which will cause tyres to crack and age over time. I makes the tyre look new and adds to the overal look of a clean car. So it delays aging process and fills those voids with protection. You could use Carpro black out if you've got deep pockets for a better protection system 💯
Apart ceramic coating Is there any product to protect wheels from race pads dust?
Not that's effective
hi, can I ask a question that is something that really annoys me! How do I stop my brake discs from rusting evertime I wash the car? Even using rust inhibiting cleaners after rinsing with water corrosion still happens. Any advice would be great! Thanks!
some brake discs are really prone to corroding and you wont be able to stop it. others less so. Lots of OEM discs have like a matt primer on the centre hub part and the brake dust sticks to this and beds in. Ive just had knew rear discs on the golf and I know that no matter what I do really they will crud up over the next year. The best thing is to get really good brakes with a satin paint on the hub and then just try and keep on top of it if you can.
@@ForensicDetailing many thanks for your reply. Good advice, I’m due new brakes in a couple of months so I will keep this in mind. Keep up the channel, and the fantastic reviews. 👍
Do you wash your car before cleaning the wheels ?
Sometimes yes
A favourite tool for me is a cheap washmit with fingers, like a glove. So easy to follow most contours of the wheel. Add a brush for the barrels and it's about all I need plus some APC and BH Autowheel. Now, my brush is both getting old and is difficult to squeeze between the barrel and the brake disk. Anybody have any suggestions for a replacement?
EZ wheel brush set? The medium size brush gets between my brake callipers, barrels and spokes with ease
@@michael6125 thanks
Whenever I clean my tyres they always go brown, What is it ? Never know if it’s not cleaned properly or not rinsed properly
That's anti ozonant use milder chems
Just wondering if you have a link to the brushes you use?
vikan flat face, atlasta, tuff shine, EZ, microfiber madness incredibrush, in2detailing hoggs hair and detail factory soft tips.
@@ForensicDetailing Thank you. 😁
What would you use to clean out the disc vent holes? I went on holiday and came back and like a fool i am, ignored the light rust build up on my brake discs which quickly filled them in, ive tried high pressure hose, bilt hamber, is there anything short of getting a drill bit and hand remeeming them ?
hard to say mate. I would poke at them with teh stubby first. I dont think I would drill into them. I think just leave it mate. I was going to suggest a round file. but these are brakes I would not like do anything with corrosion in the holes.
@@ForensicDetailing Ok ! thanks for the advice.
just jab whatever into the holes, drill bit, screwdriver etc. You aren't going to affect he braking system unless you start going nuts with a corded drill and making new holes 😂
Same calipers as my Passat, they charge around £300 for a genuine front caliper, shocking that they aren't even protected with anything.
Does iron remover damage brake pads?
It will dissolve surface rust on the pad which can effect the pad and cause pitting. Same for steel disks.
Great vid John as always. Wondered have you ever done a vids series of only using one brand from end to end process such as Autoglm, or BH etc. From pre wash, cleaning in and out to paint prep and correction.
Ive not done this mate, luke from tranquility used to do this I think its a pretty good idea. but its a bit like a brand review I guess and Ive not done brand reviews for a while.
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for the reply, I know we all have our favourite products, mix and match etc. Just seeing the total process might be interesting then comparing maybe between brands.
I've always pre washed my wheels in snow foam. Never thought of ACP. Nice top tip 👍
Thanks for another really useful instructional video. I've coated my alloy wheels with Gyeon Rim, the question I have is what type of products can be applied from their range that won't damage the coat? Can you use a fallout remover for example?
Gyeon Iron or Gyeon Iron Wheel cleaner!
Both are pH neutral and RIM safe.
A normal car shampoo, or even a wheel shampoo should suffice if the wheels have been properly coated and cleaned regularly.
Same here, I was GT wheel shampoo and occasionally BH Autofoam at a weak ratio.
I’m always a bit concerned about using the fallout remover with the wheels on the car and the effect it could have on the wheel hub/brake disc. As you show it’s impossible to avoid some overspray.
Yep overuse with iron removing products can also strip any grease out of moving parts too
TGA does not degrease. But the surfactant in TGA based wheel cleaners can degrease.
Have you seen what fallout removers does to zinc factory zinc finished callipers?😳……rusty mess after 6 months of regular use!
You need to re-sand that driveway John!
True 😒 it's non stop
the David Bellamy of car detailing...
mr muscle oven cleaner ,took mine up like new
Great video Jon. I’m putting a set of black sawtooths on my defender with diamond cut faces. Would these products be ok on diamond cut wheels? Also what ceramic coating would be best regardless of price for maximum protection against corrosion on the diamond cut surfaces?
Ya dude these products would be fine to use on diamond cut rims.
I mean I don’t think you’d need to use an iron remover on fresh shoes, but when/if you do it’s a PH neutral product so no worries.
Just use whatever shampoo or apc you want, no acids and don’t use high alkaline products undiluted.
If money is no object, I’d suggest looking into Kamikaze Stance, for a rim coating.
@@NipponStiqqyPaint cheers mate!
Must be a better way to achieve same result without pulling out tire
BH KERROSOL....👌👌👌
The only thing to clean wheels with is BH auto wheel. Don't mess about with anything else as your wasting your time
Interesting, no BH products.......
Shame you didn't clean behind the spokes
Tissue ! 🤧
Try concrete cleaner on ya alloys
My car has steel wheels and wheel trims 🤣
I can't believe that you don't wear gloves, That shit is toxic
Bro listen to me u r good detailer but pleas get your nice nice tripod or equipment so u can make more pro video and maybe upgrade your camera
4th
The apc stage was totally useless and time consuming if you use the iron remover
apc did nothing john just a waste of product and time if youd just blasted the alloy first it would of resulted in the same,then after that great job