Thank you David for your no nonsense yet comprehensive video, I truly appreciate the very valuable advice you have just given me. Kind regards Craig Down under.
I followed this procedure on a rifle, but the manufacturer recommended doing it for 30 shots. It was ~t I m e c o n s u m I n g~, but the rifle shoots consistently tight groups. Good advice. I appreciate the video.
Iv read lots of comments. And info in this video is good. I seen a video with barrel maker kreuger, kreiger? He says its a "myth", i guess its the way you look at it
You say that when the grooves are cut it leaves micro pours in the barrel. Button rifled and cold hammer forged barrels have no cut rifling and even fine barrels that are cut are always cut from the breach to the crown. Always in the direction of travel of the bullet. The only place in the barrel that may need some fine work is in the chamber where the tool marks are across the direction of travel of the bullet. This information comes from both Krieger barrel and Shilen barrels. All Shilen barrels are button rifled which actually changes the shape of the metal and cold hammer forged are pounded around a mandrel so neither of these have cut rifling. If you like to wear in a barrel go ahead though.
I just got a Howa 22-250 and they have a sheet in the box that says almost exactly what you said: Clean the bore first and in the end make sure there's NO petroleum distillates in the barrel. Shoot 1 shot, clean with patches ONLY and use high ammonia solvent, or direct ammonia from a market, until clean, last run dry patch. Wait at about 5 minutes between shots. Shoot another and do this same procedure 10 times. Then shoot 2 shots and do same cleaning - do this 5 times, letting it cool completely between cleaning, and use only Factory ammo for this, no reloads. At this point you will have shot a box of 20 factory rounds, good to go. Thanks for your videos!
To me this a waste of time for two reasons. First, the factory tests fires the rifle and any crud will already be embedded in the bore and rifling when you get the rifle. Second, I have for all my years shooting rifles (bench shooting and hunting) take a new rifle down and clean it thoroughly when I first get it including the barrel before I shoot it so I have never had any accuracy problems with my rifles for not doing such procedures. I do shoot quite a number of rounds to break a new rifle in though and that is mostly done when sighting in.
Looking at his reasoning and thinking from a metals perspective, copper will always be softer than the barrel metal, so if your aim is to clean out the copper from the last round to allow the barrel metal to fill the holes then this will be negated by the second round as the soft copper will again fill the holes??? I just don't see from a common sense perspective how you will replace these holes with barrel metal rather the barrel will start to wear and thus the small holes will naturally diminish/vanish.
A friend of mine, who is a gun dealer, told me to do this about 15 years ago. And yes it is very long process. I usually take out 3 or 4 rifles at a time to due the break in. It helps pass the time while you are waiting for the barrel to cool down by working on another rifle.
No such thing as barrel break in, true if your barrel is not hand lapped you have imperfections that when you clean are still there, as you shoot lead copper fills them in then clean and their back!!! Go out and shoot and quit wasting time and ammo
Thank you David for your no nonsense yet comprehensive video, I truly appreciate the very valuable advice you have just given me. Kind regards Craig Down under.
This looks like something that definitely has to be done outdoors. I hope to have found a place by the time my barrel arrives. Thanks
I followed this procedure on a rifle, but the manufacturer recommended doing it for 30 shots.
It was ~t I m e c o n s u m I n g~, but the rifle shoots consistently tight groups. Good advice. I appreciate the video.
Thank you for the video . I learned a lot ..
Iv read lots of comments. And info in this video is good.
I seen a video with barrel maker kreuger, kreiger? He says its a "myth", i guess its the way you look at it
You say that when the grooves are cut it leaves micro pours in the barrel. Button rifled and cold hammer forged barrels have no cut rifling and even fine barrels that are cut are always cut from the breach to the crown. Always in the direction of travel of the bullet. The only place in the barrel that may need some fine work is in the chamber where the tool marks are across the direction of travel of the bullet. This information comes from both Krieger barrel and Shilen barrels. All Shilen barrels are button rifled which actually changes the shape of the metal and cold hammer forged are pounded around a mandrel so neither of these have cut rifling. If you like to wear in a barrel go ahead though.
I just got a Howa 22-250 and they have a sheet in the box that says almost exactly what you said: Clean the bore first and in the end make sure there's NO petroleum distillates in the barrel. Shoot 1 shot, clean with patches ONLY and use high ammonia solvent, or direct ammonia from a market, until clean, last run dry patch. Wait at about 5 minutes between shots. Shoot another and do this same procedure 10 times. Then shoot 2 shots and do same cleaning - do this 5 times, letting it cool completely between cleaning, and use only Factory ammo for this, no reloads. At this point you will have shot a box of 20 factory rounds, good to go. Thanks for your videos!
valitchka1 mine was the 22-250 also. I got the snowking camo.
To me this a waste of time for two reasons. First, the factory tests fires the rifle and any crud will already be embedded in the bore and rifling when you get the rifle. Second, I have for all my years shooting rifles (bench shooting and hunting) take a new rifle down and clean it thoroughly when I first get it including the barrel before I shoot it so I have never had any accuracy problems with my rifles for not doing such procedures. I do shoot quite a number of rounds to break a new rifle in though and that is mostly done when sighting in.
Looking at his reasoning and thinking from a metals perspective, copper will always be softer than the barrel metal, so if your aim is to clean out the copper from the last round to allow the barrel metal to fill the holes then this will be negated by the second round as the soft copper will again fill the holes??? I just don't see from a common sense perspective how you will replace these holes with barrel metal rather the barrel will start to wear and thus the small holes will naturally diminish/vanish.
That's how I did my Howa it was an all day process.
A friend of mine, who is a gun dealer, told me to do this about 15 years ago. And yes it is very long process. I usually take out 3 or 4 rifles at a time to due the break in. It helps pass the time while you are waiting for the barrel to cool down by working on another rifle.
Anyone gof a axiom Blackhawks stock for sale
I may have one for 308 howa. I did mount the rifle to it, but it has never been fired. Ordered an Oryx instead. It is the VS fully aluminum version.
Windex 😂
No such thing as barrel break in, true if your barrel is not hand lapped you have imperfections that when you clean are still there, as you shoot lead copper fills them in then clean and their back!!! Go out and shoot and quit wasting time and ammo