With the plastic film on the reflector, it makes me wonder if they stamped the thing on the wrong side. Usually that film is there to protect the shiny surface while stamping.
You're gonna get negative comments about you NOT simply jamming the wires into the end of the IEC plug instead :P You wussed out, Jules! I am dissapoint! xD I kid of course, you're alright :D You _definitely_ need to do a collab with Clive, that'd be epic! Two of my most favourite tear-downers, together at last :D
Hi Julian I purchased one similar to this thinking the same thing about the orientation of the PIR sensor with the possibility of water leaking in through the dials. But when i thought about it further if its mounted to the wall with the PIR to the underside of the unit it ends up pointing to the ground, thus the PIR is mounted correctly and should be at the top of the unit, this way it is not pointing at the ground. The only thing then is the 240v mains gland is also at the top unit, but with the use of a "drip loop" on the cable entry this wont be a problem
+Jenson Cooper Interesting, I hadn't thought of that. But it does have all the hallmarks of a batch of wrongly assembled units sold off cheap ending up on eBay.
Those PIR sensors are no good, I mouted several of them, all stopped working and they weren't even in the rain! Cheers for your videos, watched them all, ran into your channel by accidently typing my name in the RUclips search bar! :) Cherio!!
+Proyectos LED Gaston! para mi lo deben hacer para alargar la vida util del chip led y ademas para que no caliente tanto, debido que lo unico que tiene para disipar es la carcasa que dudo que sea el mejor disipador! Saludos!
+Proyectos LED yeah it's pretty common for these chinese lights to run about 30-40% less than they're rated for, but the light should last longer though.
+vgamesx1 It depends on the fact that the led is actually rated for 50W. Even if it is supposed to be a 50W one, It seems that the led modules in cheapest flood lights are a bit defective: when you ramp up the amps, you see that only few led chips give light while many just pass current without lighting up. This mismatch in the behavior of the leds may be problematic if used at 50W. Underpowering the led module is probably a way to not rapidly burn the led chips that receive extra power because of the mismatch.
+himselfe With panels that small it's often hard to tell if something is glas or plastic (PMMA or PC). Scratch test would be the way to go. But the edge looked like a typical scored and broken glass edge. Glass is actually cheaper than PMMA (and much cheaper than PC) of the same thickness (at least when I checked at the hardware store), so that's what the chinese would go for. That's luckily beneficial for outside use, because many plastics get matte over time due to heat and UV.
I have some of these cheap Floodlights (80W, 2*50W, 30W) - but all of them with 5630-Boards. I think those are much better than those COB's, because the light-color is actually very usable and the CRI is pretty high for something that cheap. I have dozens of COBs here, from 3W to 100W - and only very few are actually usable.
Dear Julian nice vid. I think all Chinese suppliers add 10 watts on to the capacity of their lights. From experience if you want a 20 watt LED PIR light buy a 30w unit, etc.
40W sold as 50, Quality! I've just received four "15W" LED globes from two different eBayers that draw 5.1-5.6 Watts apiece. Do they just rely on us mugs to not know, or to just meekly suck it up?
i have the exact same ones around the back of my house, they are very cheaply made, iv found the weak point being the dubious quality led used in them. thanks
Looked at these on eBay, pir seems to be the right way around, for some reason they are mounted on top of the light not bottom hence the controls will end up on bottom. Why? Unknown choice
Poor Paul, He donates his light to his mate who takes it apart and messes with it, then hands it back telling him he couldn't be bothered to turn the PIR the right way up.
So I've always wondered why LEDs have reflectors at all. For the use you get out of them they don't do hardly anything, so it's more about just having a form factor people are familiar with. I'm waiting for a company to shake things up and make a sleek, small form factor light and forgo the reflector. I think that'd sell units. Kind of like... Apple, but for LED lighting.
Julian Ilett I'd love to see a case just barely big enough to house the LED and the heatsink. I bet if you had a good quality heatsink and some thermal compound you could get away with a fairly small one, making a compact flood light.
I think it was just cheaply built at low cost. The reflector plastic sheet should not be on the reflector. The wires from the main to the driver are those cheap crimps, not screw ons. The case is nice, to bad the motion detector is out on upside down. I wonder when these light manufacturers will start putting anti-reflective coated glass on the lights. With AR glass coating it would gain at least 10% more light through the glass. Nice tear down :-)
Julian, Why do you think that this light should draw 50 watts ? The label says "OUTPUT 50 Watts". There is no actual current rating listed on the label, just a voltage range and frequency - 50-60 Hz. I think the rating of "OUTPUT 50 watts" means it is equal in light output to a standard 50 watt filament bulb not how much power it consumes. Maybe I am wrong but that is the impression I get from the label. What do you think ?
An excellent video as usual Julian - but a couple of moans coming up: Why don't you get a Quick Test connector from CLIFF Electronic Components? Clive uses it a lot and it will save you much time and grief. You could have done your friend Paul by replacing that stupidly short mains cable. This video suffers from the auto iris/ exposure on your camera going crazy all the time. I would suggest that all daylight is excluded from your room, two LED floods installed and have the camera exposure and white balance locked off.
Mains Lead? No Plug? In what way is that NOT illegal?
8 лет назад
+Tony Hunt At least here in Sweden, you are free to connect basically anything to the mains. Now, if you connect anything permanently its is suddenly very regulated, and you basically need to be a certified electrician instead. I doubt its illegal to sell stuff this way.
+John Bäckstrand Ah yes John. Sweden... You're the same as France and Italy. You're not in the EU, only your politicians are. Rules only apply when you want them too. Same as Me. Because I'm a Fully Licensed Radio Amateur for 34 years, G6MEW, obviously any electronic laws, to me, are also only advisory.
Unbelieveable - you missed the led driver. In doubt you should just have followed the power cord. By the way - I lately ordered 3 floodlights each 100w. 2 of those stopped working after 1 week. I dont exactly remember but there were around 180 single LED's on a thin epoxy glued ontop of an aluninium plate screwed to the case with heat paste in between. I figured out that the leds were connected in a 3 led parallel cluster serial mode. so when one led of 3 leds fails the two others have to carry the full current. Of cause that leads to the death of both soon whitch interrupts the flow for all others. I soldered in new ones in wich was a mess because everything was covered with silicone. It works but surely not for long. In the end this design is a big desaster. I measured it consumes around 70 watts so 100w was a lie. I guess the manufacturer knows about it - i immediately got the money back without any questions or request for reshipment. Lateron i ordered another design 100w led floodlight. It has 2 50w drivers inside and works pretty well for weeks now. You prpbably know that this kinda floodlight design with this big but useless reflector is only made because the customers are used to floodlights with halogen lamps inside and want it that way. Back in the days when floodlights were made with halogen lamps the reflector made sense.
that reflector from the looks of it they put it the wrong way in into the press the back side appears to be reflective :D that's why the protective film is there
When you're assembling more than one of anything that has protective film on it, pulling off the film is a faff. So their rationale for not taking it off is: "no need -> don't bother". EBay sellers overstate LED power as a matter of course. I complained recently and the seller told me that margins were tight therefore it was a justified lie. Cheeky buggers.
+Richard Ball I think they underdrive intentionally because they're using bottom-bin LED dies with several bad LEDs in each column. If they drove at full wattage, the LEDs that are actually working would overheat.
+John Ridley That sounds like a great engineering / technical interpretation of what would be, but it gives them too much credit. The products are clearly often poorly made (having seen lots of BigClive videos) and they simply lie about the specs as a matter of course to boost the return. Most customers won't measure the current, so it would be wasteful not to(!)
it doesnt matter which way you put them in. you will always get positive and negative potential difference thanks to ic. so even if its just a half bridge rectifier, it will get one half of the wave, no matter where live and neutral is. live and neutral is only important for safety, so for example the live wire is switched and not the neutral one. with euro plugs the system is complete nonsense as you can plug them in either way.
Yeah the light sensor has a rubber thingy on it - but the water will come in through the holes of the pots and the screws... Also this red and black wire just going through the metal... I'm not really impressed...
+Ron Topsvoort I noticed there were a couple of rubber washers around the red and black wires sandwiched between the two boxes. The seal is probably OK there.
I'm disappointed that you didn't measure the power taken by the led module itself when supplied by its own driver. (My 30W floodlight consumed only 17W so I complained and got a 50% refund from Aliexpress.com).
I have tested dozens of these over the years, so far I have only found one that really was a REAL 20 watt light, most are only 50/60% of that claimed. I think the Chinese so called engineers need to return to school and learn ohms law. It is after all one of electronics simplest equation. The reason the plastic film had been left on is simple, to save money removing it. It would have been on both sides of the metal originally but clearly ONE side HAD to be removed.
+Michael Beeny It's not that the engineers don't know that 40 watts is not 50 watts, they just ship out the cheapest one they can get and as long as people will pay them "full price" for a 50W lamp getting a 40W and not demanding a refund they will just continue to do so. And they know full well that that LED is a dodgy reject and would never work very long at 50W they just stuck a slightly cheaper 35W driver at it to make it last just long enough for people not care to again claim refunds for a failing lamp. As far as I can see the chinese engineers and salesmen are doing great (for their own good at least), it's the customers who need to sharpen their game and demand refunds for fake products.
why would anyone want a link to that chinese junk light!? i sure wouldnt! from watching enough of clive's videos i knew the light wasn't going to draw 50w. i expected lower, around 30w.
3 Minutes in and so far it's literally 'everything sucks'....Your title should read, Here's all the reasons this is shit, or just make a 30 second video that says, "don't buy 50w led floodlight on ebay"....waste of my time
With the plastic film on the reflector, it makes me wonder if they stamped the thing on the wrong side. Usually that film is there to protect the shiny surface while stamping.
You're gonna get negative comments about you NOT simply jamming the wires into the end of the IEC plug instead :P
You wussed out, Jules! I am dissapoint! xD I kid of course, you're alright :D
You _definitely_ need to do a collab with Clive, that'd be epic! Two of my most favourite tear-downers, together at last :D
+Azayles Yeah, you're probably right. Cheers!
Julian Ilett No worries! :D
Night night! :)
+Azayles LOL
Hi Julian I purchased one similar to this thinking the same thing about the orientation of the PIR sensor with the possibility of water leaking in through the dials. But when i thought about it further if its mounted to the wall with the PIR to the underside of the unit it ends up pointing to the ground, thus the PIR is mounted correctly and should be at the top of the unit, this way it is not pointing at the ground. The only thing then is the 240v mains gland is also at the top unit, but with the use of a "drip loop" on the cable entry this wont be a problem
+Jenson Cooper Interesting, I hadn't thought of that. But it does have all the hallmarks of a batch of wrongly assembled units sold off cheap ending up on eBay.
Those PIR sensors are no good, I mouted several of them, all stopped working and they weren't even in the rain!
Cheers for your videos, watched them all, ran into your channel by accidently typing my name in the RUclips search bar! :)
Cherio!!
Yess, nice video my friend. recently I made a video of an 12w LED lamp and only consumed 7.5w, is this scam normal?
+Proyectos LED Gaston! para mi lo deben hacer para alargar la vida util del chip led y ademas para que no caliente tanto, debido que lo unico que tiene para disipar es la carcasa que dudo que sea el mejor disipador! Saludos!
+Proyectos LED yeah it's pretty common for these chinese lights to run about 30-40% less than they're rated for, but the light should last longer though.
+vgamesx1 It depends on the fact that the led is actually rated for 50W. Even if it is supposed to be a 50W one, It seems that the led modules in cheapest flood lights are a bit defective: when you ramp up the amps, you see that only few led chips give light while many just pass current without lighting up. This mismatch in the behavior of the leds may be problematic if used at 50W. Underpowering the led module is probably a way to not rapidly burn the led chips that receive extra power because of the mismatch.
+Proyectos LED I got 2 50w led floodlights from ebay a few weeks back. They draw about 30w each. I think it's pretty common.
+Proyectos LED
It's not a scam. It's just that you don't seem to know the conversion factor for chinese watts. ;)
Need one of the test blocks that clive/jw etc use, very handy if expensive.
+Apex I had one years ago, but it probably was 30 or 40 years ago.
Nicely done, sir.
You can get 'glass effect' acrylic, which has the greenish edge, so it might not be glass if it doesn't feel like it.
+himselfe
With panels that small it's often hard to tell if something is glas or plastic (PMMA or PC). Scratch test would be the way to go. But the edge looked like a typical scored and broken glass edge. Glass is actually cheaper than PMMA (and much cheaper than PC) of the same thickness (at least when I checked at the hardware store), so that's what the chinese would go for. That's luckily beneficial for outside use, because many plastics get matte over time due to heat and UV.
I have some of these cheap Floodlights (80W, 2*50W, 30W) - but all of them with 5630-Boards.
I think those are much better than those COB's, because the light-color is actually very usable and the CRI is pretty high for something that cheap.
I have dozens of COBs here, from 3W to 100W - and only very few are actually usable.
Perhaps a dark tinted sheet or a piece of welding glass would help with LED examination?
Get a quick test like big clive. They are great for quick mains testing.
Dear Julian nice vid. I think all Chinese suppliers add 10 watts on to the capacity of their lights. From experience if you want a 20 watt LED PIR light buy a 30w unit, etc.
Julian, could the housing be composed of pot metal as well? Certainly I would suspect this inexpensive injection material to keep costs down! :-)
40W sold as 50, Quality! I've just received four "15W" LED globes from two different eBayers that draw 5.1-5.6 Watts apiece. Do they just rely on us mugs to not know, or to just meekly suck it up?
Cool a free magnet! Paul doesn't need to know about that.
Where did your friend Paul get the 50 watt floodlight? Is there a place on line where I can get a true 50 watt driver?.Thanks for the video!
i have the exact same ones around the back of my house, they are very cheaply made, iv found the weak point being the dubious quality led used in them. thanks
Looked at these on eBay, pir seems to be the right way around, for some reason they are mounted on top of the light not bottom hence the controls will end up on bottom. Why? Unknown choice
Where did you got the power supply, Julian??
Poor Paul, He donates his light to his mate who takes it apart and messes with it, then hands it back telling him he couldn't be bothered to turn the PIR the right way up.
If theres something weird on a chinese product, its always gonna for price reasons.
Protection film left on? Less work, less costs.
I see you managed to put a dink or crease in the reflector......
So I've always wondered why LEDs have reflectors at all. For the use you get out of them they don't do hardly anything, so it's more about just having a form factor people are familiar with. I'm waiting for a company to shake things up and make a sleek, small form factor light and forgo the reflector. I think that'd sell units. Kind of like... Apple, but for LED lighting.
+Jesse Crandle I agree completely. The reflector just seems to fill the space between the small LED and the large case.
Julian Ilett I'd love to see a case just barely big enough to house the LED and the heatsink. I bet if you had a good quality heatsink and some thermal compound you could get away with a fairly small one, making a compact flood light.
***** True, but I think you could make a driver that was more square than long, get the footprint of the item into a smaller cube shape perhaps.
That reflector is stamped plate
Even if it dies soon after buying, it would make for a fun upgrade/rebuild project.
I think it was just cheaply built at low cost. The reflector plastic sheet should not be on the reflector. The wires from the main to the driver are those cheap crimps, not screw ons. The case is nice, to bad the motion detector is out on upside down. I wonder when these light manufacturers will start putting anti-reflective coated glass on the lights. With AR glass coating it would gain at least 10% more light through the glass. Nice tear down :-)
Julian, Why do you think that this light should draw 50 watts ? The label says "OUTPUT 50 Watts". There is no actual current rating listed on the label, just a voltage range and frequency - 50-60 Hz. I think the rating of "OUTPUT 50 watts" means it is equal in light output to a standard 50 watt filament bulb not how much power it consumes. Maybe I am wrong but that is the impression I get from the label. What do you think ?
An excellent video as usual Julian - but a couple of moans coming up:
Why don't you get a Quick Test connector from CLIFF Electronic Components? Clive uses it a lot and it will save you much time and grief. You could have done your friend Paul by replacing that stupidly short mains cable.
This video suffers from the auto iris/ exposure on your camera going crazy all the time. I would suggest that all daylight is excluded from your room, two LED floods installed and have the camera exposure and white balance locked off.
Mains Lead? No Plug? In what way is that NOT illegal?
+Tony Hunt At least here in Sweden, you are free to connect basically anything to the mains. Now, if you connect anything permanently its is suddenly very regulated, and you basically need to be a certified electrician instead. I doubt its illegal to sell stuff this way.
+John Bäckstrand Ah yes John. Sweden... You're the same as France and Italy. You're not in the EU, only your politicians are. Rules only apply when you want them too. Same as Me. Because I'm a Fully Licensed Radio Amateur for 34 years, G6MEW, obviously any electronic laws, to me, are also only advisory.
Link for this £14 floodlight?
Unbelieveable - you missed the led driver. In doubt you should just have followed the power cord.
By the way - I lately ordered 3 floodlights each 100w. 2 of those stopped working after 1 week. I dont exactly remember but there were around 180 single LED's on a thin epoxy glued ontop of an aluninium plate screwed to the case with heat paste in between. I figured out that the leds were connected in a 3 led parallel cluster serial mode. so when one led of 3 leds fails the two others have to carry the full current. Of cause that leads to the death of both soon whitch interrupts the flow for all others. I soldered in new ones in wich was a mess because everything was covered with silicone. It works but surely not for long. In the end this design is a big desaster. I measured it consumes around 70 watts so 100w was a lie.
I guess the manufacturer knows about it - i immediately got the money back without any questions or request for reshipment. Lateron i ordered another design 100w led floodlight. It has 2 50w drivers inside and works pretty well for weeks now.
You prpbably know that this kinda floodlight design with this big but useless reflector is only made because the customers are used to floodlights with halogen lamps inside and want it that way. Back in the days when floodlights were made with halogen lamps the reflector made sense.
that reflector from the looks of it they put it the wrong way in into the press the back side appears to be reflective :D that's why the protective film is there
You can see the driver at 4:00
Oulor Temperature???
Maybe you should talk to Big Clive about that thingiething he uses alot when testing LEDs and such ;)
Not bad for £14!
So, it's less than 0.8W/led...
It's quite typical for those...
That earth looks suspect! :O
"Olour Temperature" - yeah... :D
When you're assembling more than one of anything that has protective film on it, pulling off the film is a faff. So their rationale for not taking it off is: "no need -> don't bother".
EBay sellers overstate LED power as a matter of course. I complained recently and the seller told me that margins were tight therefore it was a justified lie. Cheeky buggers.
+Richard Ball I think they underdrive intentionally because they're using bottom-bin LED dies with several bad LEDs in each column. If they drove at full wattage, the LEDs that are actually working would overheat.
+John Ridley That sounds like a great engineering / technical interpretation of what would be, but it gives them too much credit. The products are clearly often poorly made (having seen lots of BigClive videos) and they simply lie about the specs as a matter of course to boost the return. Most customers won't measure the current, so it would be wasteful not to(!)
it doesnt matter which way you put them in. you will always get positive and negative potential difference thanks to ic. so even if its just a half bridge rectifier, it will get one half of the wave, no matter where live and neutral is. live and neutral is only important for safety, so for example the live wire is switched and not the neutral one. with euro plugs the system is complete nonsense as you can plug them in either way.
Blue=Neutral
6:23 We are Bigclive-ing a bit, huh? :D
Yeah the light sensor has a rubber thingy on it - but the water will come in through the holes of the pots and the screws...
Also this red and black wire just going through the metal... I'm not really impressed...
+Ron Topsvoort I noticed there were a couple of rubber washers around the red and black wires sandwiched between the two boxes. The seal is probably OK there.
I'm disappointed that you didn't measure the power taken by the led module itself when supplied by its own driver. (My 30W floodlight consumed only 17W so I complained and got a 50% refund from Aliexpress.com).
Awesome.
I have tested dozens of these over the years, so far I have only found one that really was a REAL 20 watt light, most are only 50/60% of that claimed. I think the Chinese so called engineers need to return to school and learn ohms law. It is after all one of electronics simplest equation.
The reason the plastic film had been left on is simple, to save money removing it. It would have been on both sides of the metal originally but clearly ONE side HAD to be removed.
+Michael Beeny It's not that the engineers don't know that 40 watts is not 50 watts, they just ship out the cheapest one they can get and as long as people will pay them "full price" for a 50W lamp getting a 40W and not demanding a refund they will just continue to do so.
And they know full well that that LED is a dodgy reject and would never work very long at 50W they just stuck a slightly cheaper 35W driver at it to make it last just long enough for people not care to again claim refunds for a failing lamp.
As far as I can see the chinese engineers and salesmen are doing great (for their own good at least), it's the customers who need to sharpen their game and demand refunds for fake products.
how many watts in this video lmfao
al loo min um
+Darryl 603 al u min i um, we arnt in the us
why would anyone want a link to that chinese junk light!? i sure wouldnt! from watching enough of clive's videos i knew the light wasn't going to draw 50w. i expected lower, around 30w.
I know you are not going to, but get a proper PSU. Please. Regards Mr Hopeful.
+Eric Gee He really should. Even I am getting a somewhat proper PSU. Its a switching one though, one of the "gopher" variants. Its good enough for me.
3 Minutes in and so far it's literally 'everything sucks'....Your title should read, Here's all the reasons this is shit, or just make a 30 second video that says, "don't buy 50w led floodlight on ebay"....waste of my time
Second
First
yawn