Thank you for all the tech tips. I just got my 455 .40over back from the local shop and lost oil pressure, and trashed the motor by the time I got off the highway. Im 22, and this will be my first engine build. If I follow the videos you posted am I off to a good start rebuilding my own or is their more to worry about in these engines specificly? besides oil flow issues, and breaking in the cam properly. Again, thank you for sharing what you have learned
There is a lot more to building an engine than just buying the parts and putting it together. Among other things, you need to measure all tolerances, for example, get the bearings of correct style and thickness to ensure good oil pressure and protection. My videos will help but there is a lot of engine building knowledge required to fully understand how to build an engine properly, especially one that has had a catastrophic failure event. Before rebuilding you should be positive you've identified the reason oil pressure was lost and rectify root cause of the issue. Matching components is essential, like having the correct pickup length for your pan, correct pushrod length and lifter height, and even matching your cam profile with the rear end ratio, transmission, cylinder heads, intake, and exhaust. I suggest if you want to rebuild your engine, do research into building Olds engines , spend time with the original shop manual (like engine section of the 1972 Oldsmobile chassis manual), if you can find an old Wyotech notes folder from the engine building course that would be extremely helpful. Speak with your local engine shop if you have questions, and ironically stay away from internet misinformation when possible. Also feel free to send questions my way when you need help. If you are wiling, have the tools, and want to put the time into it, you can absolutely rebuild that engine into something you will be proud of.
@Junk Dump thank you sir, really appreciate you taking the time to get back to me. You will definitely be flooded with questions once I do my research and get a plan going.
Hi I'm from Boston I seen your RUclips video on dial indicating a cam. Someone asked what type of cam to put in a 73 delta and you narrowed down some choices based on certain situations. I currently have a stock 350 type 8 heads it's in a 1975 delta 88 convertible 94.000 miles runs good. I've bought but haven't installed yet. Headers glass packs on the headers exhaust pipes all the way to the rear bumper edelbrock intake manifold 7111 edelbrock 1411 750cfm carburetor light distributor springs high voltage coil 60.000 transmission is stock with stock stall. rear end is stock but I noticed car needs a 4th gear. I'll be removing the cover in the spring to find out what gears are in it. would it make a difference putting different heads on it or having them ported or just leave it? can I put a cam in without changing the cam bearings? what cam pack would be good for more improved power in the off idle to 5000 or a little higher rpm? preferably edelbrock cam. At this point I don't even know if the 350 can take a 750 carb I'm used to 455 but I unfortunately sold it so 350 is a new venture for now. How much horse can a cam headers 750 carb and intake give you? what i mean is it worth it? thanks for your time and I'm looking forward to your advice thank you i also emailed this to you
The Olds 350 is an excellent engine! The trick is to know where your power limiters are and spend your money where it will make the biggest impact. Here is my advice for your setup. Exhaust: Use mufflers (Dynomax Super Turbo are fine, example part number 17733 if you have 2.5" exhaust pipes) this will increase your backpressure over glass packs. Olds engines like a little backpressure, the glass packs will help make a little more HP but will sacrifice too much torque. Intake: Your choice is perfect! Carb: I think a 650cfm would be best but the 750cfm should be fine if tuned correctly, read your plugs and make sure you aren't running too rich or lean, you may have to jet down the primaries a little. Cylinder Heads: This is the biggest restriction for your current setup and should be your priority. If you decide to work the #8 Heads, I suggest you remove and plug the air injectors. Have a machine shop install valve seats Qualcast #20-2125-11 and install Qualcast #10-1457 2"(1.994") Intake Valves. Have them open the throats to 89%. Then complete a mild porting (like in my video on olds head porting). If the machine shop quote is too much money, try to locate and buy a set of 1970-1972 350 heads, they have smaller combustion chambers and will increase your compression ratio. I would also suggest the same intake valves and valve seats for the 70-72 350 heads. Camshaft: If you are interested in staying with Edelbrock then the 3712 Performer Plus is the best fit for your setup and vehicle. The stock cam bearings should be fine but you will have to inspect them. If you upgrade the heads as described above and want more HP at the cost of low end torque then you could consider the #7112 Performer RPM, if you run this cam you should consider a mild stall converter. I hope I've been helpful. I ran a 1972 Olds 350 in an 82 Delta 88 for many years and loved it!
@@junkdump2720 ok i sold that 350 and i bought a 1965 425 starfire engine with A heads. the heads are in the machine shop getting stainless steel valves hardened seats new springs retainers and keepers. i also bought a cam and lifter set. cam card says intake hyd .488 and exhaust .490 and centerline 108.0 icl 45 degree bank angle i just put it in yesterday. i checked with a comp degree wheel and the number on card says the lob lift is 306 but i found it to be 309 so the actual gross lift is 495. is this common? and it's supposed to be 108 degree and i found it to be 107.25. i just put the cam in because tried to compensate with the lower timing ear but i couldn't get it right. i also was wondering on a 1965 425 engine does the timing marks come together like a chevy or are they both at 12 o'clock? on this engine if i put the top gear at 6 and the bottom at 12 both valves would e open but if i put them both at 12 the valves are closed
@@bobdimartino6738 Unfortunately it is common to find the specs off like this, there is a margin of error and some manufacturers are quite sloppy. The factory correct way to set timing marks on an Oldsmobile engine is crank gear mark at 12:00, cam gear mark at 6:00. The gears are manufactured so the crank and cam are synchronized properly when installed in this configuration. Turn your engine to cylinder 1 TDC (remember that the #1 piston hits TDC twice, once on compression and once on exhaust to intake) and the valves will be closed when rotated to the compressions stroke of TDC. Use your timing wheel and you can verify the installation as in the video.
@@junkdump2720 yes i have it set 6 and 12 and the valves are closed this is correct? otherwise i don't want to make a mistake because you'll never be able to use a timing light if it's 180 degrees off
That depends on a lot of factors. Some of the towing and street options will work with stock springs. Always buy the cam kit with lifters and I recommend the matching springs too on the performance cams. If you are going to use a stock stall converter and intake look at these cams. Iskenderian: Street Torque 691264 2000-5800 rpm, Towing 691256262 1800-5000rpm. Engle (Mondello): Street Torque JM-16 800-4200rpm, Street Torque JM-16-18 800-4200rpm, Performance MW-31 (W-31) 1400-5500rpm, Performance JM-18-20 1000-5000rpm. If you upgrade your exhaust, Intake, and have a mild stall converter (less than 2000rpm stall), then look at these. Iskenderian: Performance 691262 2000-5500rpm, Performance 691270 2000-6000rpm. Engle (Mondello): Performance MW-30 (W-30) 2200-5500rpm, Performance JM-20-22 1400-5800, Performance (good vacuum for brakes) JM-22-25-10 1400-6000rpm, Performance JM-22-25 1400-6000rpm. Contact me at junkdump455@gmial.com If you find this list a bit overwhelming and want help to narrow it down. Send me the following information: What you want to do with the vehicle (better take off on the street, increase the power band up to 6000rpm, race with street drive ability), Then list the vehicle that the engine is in, the transmission, the stall on the torque converter, the rear end gears, the carburetor, the cylinder heads, the intake, exhaust diameter, mufflers, manifolds or headers. Using this info we can narrow it down a bit.
your channel is a great resource! I have an Olds 403 79 TA and this is super useful :-)
Thank you for the feedback, I'm glad this information is useful to you.
Good information thanks!!
Excellent, glad you find it useful!
Thanks
You are welcome.
Thank you for all the tech tips. I just got my 455 .40over back from the local shop and lost oil pressure, and trashed the motor by the time I got off the highway. Im 22, and this will be my first engine build. If I follow the videos you posted am I off to a good start rebuilding my own or is their more to worry about in these engines specificly? besides oil flow issues, and breaking in the cam properly. Again, thank you for sharing what you have learned
There is a lot more to building an engine than just buying the parts and putting it together. Among other things, you need to measure all tolerances, for example, get the bearings of correct style and thickness to ensure good oil pressure and protection. My videos will help but there is a lot of engine building knowledge required to fully understand how to build an engine properly, especially one that has had a catastrophic failure event. Before rebuilding you should be positive you've identified the reason oil pressure was lost and rectify root cause of the issue. Matching components is essential, like having the correct pickup length for your pan, correct pushrod length and lifter height, and even matching your cam profile with the rear end ratio, transmission, cylinder heads, intake, and exhaust. I suggest if you want to rebuild your engine, do research into building Olds engines , spend time with the original shop manual (like engine section of the 1972 Oldsmobile chassis manual), if you can find an old Wyotech notes folder from the engine building course that would be extremely helpful. Speak with your local engine shop if you have questions, and ironically stay away from internet misinformation when possible. Also feel free to send questions my way when you need help. If you are wiling, have the tools, and want to put the time into it, you can absolutely rebuild that engine into something you will be proud of.
@Junk Dump thank you sir, really appreciate you taking the time to get back to me. You will definitely be flooded with questions once I do my research and get a plan going.
Hi I'm from Boston I seen your RUclips video on dial indicating a cam. Someone asked what type of cam to put in a 73 delta and you narrowed down some choices based on certain situations. I currently have a stock 350 type 8 heads it's in a 1975 delta 88 convertible 94.000 miles runs good. I've bought but haven't installed yet. Headers glass packs on the headers exhaust pipes all the way to the rear bumper edelbrock intake manifold 7111 edelbrock 1411 750cfm carburetor light distributor springs high voltage coil 60.000 transmission is stock with stock stall. rear end is stock but I noticed car needs a 4th gear. I'll be removing the cover in the spring to find out what gears are in it. would it make a difference putting different heads on it or having them ported or just leave it? can I put a cam in without changing the cam bearings? what cam pack would be good for more improved power in the off idle to 5000 or a little higher rpm? preferably edelbrock cam. At this point I don't even know if the 350 can take a 750 carb I'm used to 455 but I unfortunately sold it so 350 is a new venture for now. How much horse can a cam headers 750 carb and intake give you? what i mean is it worth it? thanks for your time and I'm looking forward to your advice thank you i also emailed this to you
The Olds 350 is an excellent engine! The trick is to know where your power limiters are and spend your money where it will make the biggest impact. Here is my advice for your setup. Exhaust: Use mufflers (Dynomax Super Turbo are fine, example part number 17733 if you have 2.5" exhaust pipes) this will increase your backpressure over glass packs. Olds engines like a little backpressure, the glass packs will help make a little more HP but will sacrifice too much torque. Intake: Your choice is perfect! Carb: I think a 650cfm would be best but the 750cfm should be fine if tuned correctly, read your plugs and make sure you aren't running too rich or lean, you may have to jet down the primaries a little. Cylinder Heads: This is the biggest restriction for your current setup and should be your priority. If you decide to work the #8 Heads, I suggest you remove and plug the air injectors. Have a machine shop install valve seats Qualcast #20-2125-11 and install Qualcast #10-1457 2"(1.994") Intake Valves. Have them open the throats to 89%. Then complete a mild porting (like in my video on olds head porting). If the machine shop quote is too much money, try to locate and buy a set of 1970-1972 350 heads, they have smaller combustion chambers and will increase your compression ratio. I would also suggest the same intake valves and valve seats for the 70-72 350 heads. Camshaft: If you are interested in staying with Edelbrock then the 3712 Performer Plus is the best fit for your setup and vehicle. The stock cam bearings should be fine but you will have to inspect them. If you upgrade the heads as described above and want more HP at the cost of low end torque then you could consider the #7112 Performer RPM, if you run this cam you should consider a mild stall converter. I hope I've been helpful. I ran a 1972 Olds 350 in an 82 Delta 88 for many years and loved it!
@@junkdump2720 thank you i will fill you in on the progress thank you for the info
@@junkdump2720 ok i sold that 350 and i bought a 1965 425 starfire engine with A heads. the heads are in the machine shop getting stainless steel valves hardened seats new springs retainers and keepers. i also bought a cam and lifter set. cam card says intake hyd .488 and exhaust .490 and centerline 108.0 icl 45 degree bank angle i just put it in yesterday. i checked with a comp degree wheel and the number on card says the lob lift is 306 but i found it to be 309 so the actual gross lift is 495. is this common? and it's supposed to be 108 degree and i found it to be 107.25. i just put the cam in because tried to compensate with the lower timing ear but i couldn't get it right. i also was wondering on a 1965 425 engine does the timing marks come together like a chevy or are they both at 12 o'clock? on this engine if i put the top gear at 6 and the bottom at 12 both valves would e open but if i put them both at 12 the valves are closed
@@bobdimartino6738 Unfortunately it is common to find the specs off like this, there is a margin of error and some manufacturers are quite sloppy. The factory correct way to set timing marks on an Oldsmobile engine is crank gear mark at 12:00, cam gear mark at 6:00. The gears are manufactured so the crank and cam are synchronized properly when installed in this configuration. Turn your engine to cylinder 1 TDC (remember that the #1 piston hits TDC twice, once on compression and once on exhaust to intake) and the valves will be closed when rotated to the compressions stroke of TDC. Use your timing wheel and you can verify the installation as in the video.
@@junkdump2720 yes i have it set 6 and 12 and the valves are closed this is correct? otherwise i don't want to make a mistake because you'll never be able to use a timing light if it's 180 degrees off
I have a 73 350 with #8 heads what is the best cam upgrade for this year??
That depends on a lot of factors. Some of the towing and street options will work with stock springs. Always buy the cam kit with lifters and I recommend the matching springs too on the performance cams. If you are going to use a stock stall converter and intake look at these cams. Iskenderian: Street Torque 691264 2000-5800 rpm, Towing 691256262 1800-5000rpm. Engle (Mondello): Street Torque JM-16 800-4200rpm, Street Torque JM-16-18 800-4200rpm, Performance MW-31 (W-31) 1400-5500rpm, Performance JM-18-20 1000-5000rpm. If you upgrade your exhaust, Intake, and have a mild stall converter (less than 2000rpm stall), then look at these. Iskenderian: Performance 691262 2000-5500rpm, Performance 691270 2000-6000rpm. Engle (Mondello): Performance MW-30 (W-30) 2200-5500rpm, Performance JM-20-22 1400-5800, Performance (good vacuum for brakes) JM-22-25-10 1400-6000rpm, Performance JM-22-25 1400-6000rpm. Contact me at junkdump455@gmial.com If you find this list a bit overwhelming and want help to narrow it down. Send me the following information: What you want to do with the vehicle (better take off on the street, increase the power band up to 6000rpm, race with street drive ability), Then list the vehicle that the engine is in, the transmission, the stall on the torque converter, the rear end gears, the carburetor, the cylinder heads, the intake, exhaust diameter, mufflers, manifolds or headers. Using this info we can narrow it down a bit.