Lots of people have ideas. Actually building them, and keeping going when some of them don't work, is what sets Tim apart from most people. The lovely accent helps too!
Dear Tim, I have been watching your videos for a very long time, I am always surprised by your imagination, ideas and efficiency. You have a very good family, household, and working devices. I am pleased with your engineering findings and skills. A wooden car is very interesting, but we are still waiting for a video with a locomotive and wagons. Greetings from cold Russia :)
Ideas And Efficiency ??? you say "I have been watching your videos for a very long time" and you can also come up with words like, "I am always surprised by your imagination, ideas and efficiency" ok do we read deeper into your term "I am always surprised" as being sarcastic ???
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 👍👌👏 What a great idea! A pedal kit car. Splendid! Would definitely sell well. At least in my opinion. Best regards, luck and especially health to all of you.
One way that you can make the steering less sensitive is to move the cable attachment points in closer to the center of the wheel, this would increase the amount you have to move the wheel to get the same amount of steering input.
Absolutely fantastic. I watched this yelling use wire. It is so similar to the BEAN my Grandfather made with some help from me in the fifties. It was from RAF bits, control column cut down and tail wheels, 6v light and a sperry panel. I loved it and pretended to be my father flying his Recce Mosquito. The wooden body was a tough fruit crate from the docks padded out and enough room for 2 kids and my Dog. Pedals etc came from a Rudge bicycle, which really should have been saved. They were rolls royce machines. Awaiting the next installment. The next runabout was an Austin 7 with no body and a sofa to sit on. It flamed nicely from the exhaust but never frightened the horses in the field. AKA Goodwood. I had to get it running first; the best present ever to keep me out of trouble in the school holidays.
Thank you for the effort and explanation. Reminds me of my efforts as a child when I didn’t have any experience or money. Looking forward to your progress.
Hi Tim. You might try changing the centre strut for 2 much thinner ones with bracing between. Might be lighter and stronger than 1 thick piece, and would also give you more options to support the pedals and drive system. You could also cut the front panel into a horse shoe shape for more weight reduction. It's starting to come together.
Yes I was thinking weight is going to be a concern. A lot of things can be lightened after the fact, but that spine is chunky, and the hardest thing to replace after the fact.
Good morning to you Tim we love your inventions .We will watch later after a busy day.We need an update from Sandra we haven’t seen her for a while.We know she as a lot to do.Just seems ages since we have seen her.We best wishes.GodBless.💚💚🍀🍀🍀🍀💚☘️☘️☘️🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀💟💟💟💟💟💟💟
Behind the firewall use 2 sprockets and the bike chain , mount one sprocket to the steering wheel shaft and the other to the steering bracket down below and a jack shaft to the rear axle and an electric car starter motor 12 volts for your helper . Are you having a box in the rear to haul things if so the frame needs to be longer and pillow blocks under the rear end . just my thoughts on the ideas ! So far its looking great
Excellent! This is exactly what I had in mind when I suggested taking cues from velomobile design: a lightweight chassis built around a central load-bearing "spine" that everything attaches to. Good work, I like how it's coming along!
My John Deere riding mower has a vertical shaft that goes down underneath the mower and ends in a gear, that meshes with a (for lack of a better word) a different sort of gear that has tie arms to the front wheels. The whole kit using aftermarket parts is not that expensive and might be worth a look. If you're interested I can send links for you to get a closer look at my sad attempt of explaining it. I love watching these videos.
You could also use inner tubes for springs. Als you can use those inner tubes for a traffle stop of the swing arm. If you would have just one wheel at the back you shave off some weight aswel. Also you would not need a differentieal. You could shafe off some weight of the wooden beems. Every littlebit of weight off is good. You can make the body from bed sheets and wood glue and paint or epoxy.
Wonderful! Perhaps a wooden I-beam could save weight and material, or some sort of light wood box member design, with the steering column running through the center of it? Either should add stiffness and reduce weight..
Perfect! The first thing that hits a bump in the road is the steering linkage! That can never go wrong! Rather take a wheel flying off then the idea of losing anything in the steering. Even preferer losing brakes. At least if you catch the loss of brakes you have options. Not so much if wheels lock up or starts to do there own thing! Imagen if kids had stuff like this when growing up. Sigh.
A great source of universal joints for steering in homebrew projects are the cheapest u-joint adapters you find for ratchets. Then just weld them to rebar and bobs your auntie, you have a steering rack.
Looking like a car, like you said. Great progress in the construction. Maybe it can be modified for solar and electric assisted. A trailer with more solar, and it can drive as long as the sun is out.
My first thought trying to make an angled steering column would be to run your steering wheel axle all the way down through the frame at an angle, put a bar on the bottom and connect your steering rods between the two. But then if you're using a central spine for your frame, that would compromise most of the structural integrity, not to mention put the steering rods in position where they're likely to fowl the pedals, unless you run the pedals high and the steering rods very low, risking scraping the ground in rough terrain. This may be a bit out there, but have you considered reversing the design to have rear wheel steering? This way you could just cut the central support at an angle once it goes past the rear-turned-front axle and mount your steering column to that. You'd have to run steering rods all the way to the back, however, you'd have a lot more flexibility in where to mount them since you could more freely make the steering column longer or shorter, and that would give you shorter path to the other axle for your power, which might balance out the weight with fewer materials being needed there. Plus if you end up adding a motor to it, you can mount that above the steering column, directly above the drive axle, with that weight over top of the drive wheels and giving you the best traction.
As for the vertical steering it reminds me of an the 1916 Autocar coal truck Jay Leno has. Also, any progress on the backyard railroad? As for crossing the rail-line a “diamond crossing” is the easiest answer to that issue. Though I would create two switches connecting the perpendicular rail-lines (or have room to for it in the future). I also suggest a siding to place rolling stock on and “run around” to the other end when you have a small locomotive that is capable of running the entire line (unfortunately I doubt Tornado would be able to do such without being refilled multiple times). I would suggest making a 4 axle locomotive with the same mechanism used in some GE 44 Tonners that are still kicking around here in the US. Each bogie has the two axles powered by a large heavy-duty chain that is then connected to an output from the engine (not directly). This would allow the locomotive to have a large amount of tractive effort as the system needs to be robust and it would help to move wood up a significant grade without having to bring one car a time up a hill.
speed holes are always great! she's shaping up really nice Tim, great work. have you seen the beams for house framing that are sort of skeletonized? instead of being a 2x8 or whatever it has a thin runner on each side and then the gap is criss crossed with dowels to provide the width. I believe they use those for extra insulation value (can fit foam in between the studs for more R value I suppose) perhaps you could use something like that for the main chassis length and a shorter section for the rear.
The big central plank might be better left alone to keep the centre of gravity low - perhaps it feels different sat in it, but it looked a bit top heavy and wobbly in that last shot!
I bet his wife was so amazed and proud at the end seeing him build something like that and feeling so lucky that he's her husband. She's a lucky woman.
oh that's quite nice! My first thought on steering was that the wires could secure to a nice easy round slightly smaller than the wheel, giving you a touch of mechanical leverage and a touch of slowness on the steering action. Can't wait to see the next step!
I may have already said this Tim, but it is videos like yours that make RUclips worth watching! Again, well done! Can you add railroad wheels and use it on the track?
it is better to make the main spinal beam of a square section or a T-shaped one ... yes, I would also advise to increase the shoulders of the rocking chairs so that the control becomes smoother ...
May I advice to take a flat steel strap and wrap it around your central spine, from side, below to other side. where the end of your forward metal pipe is. Because there is alot of downwards force, on that one screw holding it in now. IT will possibly come out at the fourth big bump you go over. Otherwise this is really cool to follow!
The problem with the steering is that if you run into something you impale yourself, plus the clerance underneath. if you bump something underneath and the car changes direction and you run into something, it is impalement time. Like the design of the car, you can also lighten the central collom by geting 2 two by fors and puting plywood in the middle like an I beam.
When i was a kid my brother and i made a push cart thing, not nearly as fancy of a deaign as yours though. It was basically just a box with handtruck wheels, and we would push each other around the block. The steering was the hardest part, but we ended up doing something very similar to you, with the cables and such. Thank you for the amazing videos. If I am ever in Wales I am stopping by to help. 😊
Horizontal steering is not an issue, the lower the car is, usually the more horizontal the steering gets. However, I think that in your case it would be a good idea to make the vertical plank shorter, and the steering wheel lower, it would make for a more comfortable driving style. Also, since there isn't much steering angle, you could just replace the steering wholesale with a handlebar, which would continue the bike theme!
if that steering mechanism catches on something you're going to be forces left or right, i would try to get it above the wheels instead of below so you can accommodate clearance.
You are having great fun building this tim. I just hope there aren't too many hill near you...because its already 4 tines the weight of a mid spec racing bicycle, and we all know how hard it is to pedal a bike up a hill.... just a thought
I worry about ground clearance on that steering rack. One bad rock and not only are you going to bottom out but jerk the steering in one direction or the other.
If you are not trying to reinvent the wheel, as it were, you could fashion a rack and pinion out of an old bicycle sprocket and chain. Just a thought. Best of luck!
A good way to save on weight would be to use a wooden skeleton and do the outer walls/fairings with coroplast. It's inexpensive, lightweight, rather durable for its weight, and waterproof.
To "add" lightness I wonder how 4" plastic waste pipe would do? Lots of connectors about the place to make shapes with along with routing holes in the wood to join them up. 2 lengths might make a stronger spine along with giving storage for batteries and a brolly like a Rolls Royce!
Might want to tack-weld a wide enough plate on that steering column so it's less likely to turn into a skewer in the event of a crash. Either that or try to figure out how to make a collapsible column, which has been one of those staple automotive safety features ever since it was invented.
The cable running the steering needs to be wrapped round 2 spools behind the steering wheel. This way the pull on the cable is always the same no matter what position the steering wheel is in. You could also adjust the ratio.
Of course, I don’t really know, but I’d bet the original cars in the film had a thin steel tube ‘space-frame’ chassis with thin wooden and textile bodywork. Light weight is going to be key to success here surely. Steel tube would make mounting your pedal mechanism easier, and would make the suspension both lighter and (probably) better and stiffer. But then, the Mosquito was a wonderfully successful aeroplane! Though they didn’t make the guns out of wood… Les in UK
Another steering option is to steer one wheel, and then attach the other wheel to that one, instead of attaching both wheels to the steering wheel. So the steering wheel controls road wheel A, and then road wheel A controls road wheel B.
Im sure you notice, but with your steering on the bottom you run the risk of damage if you go over too large a bump or sharp inclines. Awesome idea, keep it up!
Sir, you do realise that upon am unwanted but significant frontal impact, that steering assembly will be aimed right at your heart. I urge you to put a universal coupling in line so that it will absorb the energy in some other direction, than your rib cage.
Why do you need a universal joint to change the steering wheel??? The shaft is only there to mount the steering wheel, the actual connection is done with the wires, and pulleys can be used to redirect the forces of those. Ps have you considered brake cable? Would make routing easier and probably improve feel
ok, time to pipe up... you have to do some research on steering geometry. things like kingpin inclination, scrub axle radius... you want those kingpins drilled at an angle so they interesect the contact point of the tyre or you get horrid bump steer. vertical? the wheel is hanging out about 5 inches from the pivot line from what i can see here. you need caster, tilting them backwards so the contact patch is always trailing behind the pivot line. together, they give "self centering", the tendency to pull back into a straight line. stability. you need akermans... you cant just wack tie rods onto arms any old way and expect the wheels to follow the correct lines when steering. that (looks like) 3 inch space between tie rod ends on the steering arm by itself throws everything off. basically, considering tie rod arms on column and kingpins to be of equal length, then a line drawn from kingpin to rear axle will intersect with tie rod ends... any deviation from the basic layout requires slight modifications to bring the arcs of the wheels back into line as you steer... throw in suspension and the location of pivot points becomes critical so everything follows the same arc, otherwise you get bump steer during suspension travel... this is all really easy stuff to set up when dealing with timber. flip the drill press table this way, that way, cut a wedge and throw the vice over at a compound angle... when everything is right, it glides. its easy. it does what its told. when everythings slapped together any old how it... fights. you want wheels losing traction from being driven on the limit, not from bad geometry forcing them to "scrub". you want wheels to point where theyre supposed to point... theres centuries of research done into steering geometry. why not take advantage of it?
Thanks, but I've been working on all those. It's not easy to see in such a rough bodge-up, but there is castor and kingpin inclination and Ackerman steering. It will become clearer in the next videos, I hope, because the suspension just wasn't good enough in these first ones...
I think your defiantly working in a direction. I have a few questions. What are you trying to make ? A quadracycle ? Isn’t the rolling friction of two wheels more efficient? And aren’t there materials that have a better weight to strength ratio than wood that would be as cost efficient? What about just putting two bikes together and making a cockpit between ??
A pedal-assist quadricycle, yes. For the same reason you might have a car - more stable, more visible, less rain : - ) Wood is perfect for most of this build, I think. Two bikes cobbled together? Clunky, very heavy, awkward to get into..
You could maybe reduce the upper frame to spars and fabric maybe stabilized trough internal wirers. I don't have the experience to say how feasible that is, but it could reduce weight and make the car easier more aerodynamic .
Can we all agree that this man is a pure genius?
Yes
Lots of people have ideas. Actually building them, and keeping going when some of them don't work, is what sets Tim apart from most people. The lovely accent helps too!
Tim has got to be the most intuitive and clever guy I've ever seen
Totally agree.
Next thing we'll be seeing is Tim bombing down the M8! 👍🤗
Dear Tim, I have been watching your videos for a very long time, I am always surprised by your imagination, ideas and efficiency. You have a very good family, household, and working devices. I am pleased with your engineering findings and skills. A wooden car is very interesting, but we are still waiting for a video with a locomotive and wagons. Greetings from cold Russia :)
I would like a loco too - and I'm working towards that - but a loco will never make me any money. Perhaps a wooden car design will.
Ideas And Efficiency ??? you say "I have been watching your videos for a very long time" and you can also come up with words like, "I am always surprised by your imagination, ideas and efficiency" ok do we read deeper into your term "I am always surprised" as being sarcastic ???
@@K1VV1939 You can do something for a very long time and still be surprised by it.
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299
👍👌👏 What a great idea! A pedal kit car. Splendid! Would definitely sell well. At least in my opinion.
Best regards, luck and especially health to all of you.
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 I would definitely buy a pedal car set of plans or kit if you made one!
I love it that you showcase all the prototyping, crude solutions, failures and thought process. One can learn so much from it! Thanks!
One way that you can make the steering less sensitive is to move the cable attachment points in closer to the center of the wheel, this would increase the amount you have to move the wheel to get the same amount of steering input.
You leave that big central plank alone. He's a lovely chap and has worked really hard on this channel!
Absolutely fantastic. I watched this yelling use wire. It is so similar to the BEAN my Grandfather made with some help from me in the fifties. It was from RAF bits, control column cut down and tail wheels, 6v light and a sperry panel. I loved it and pretended to be my father flying his Recce Mosquito. The wooden body was a tough fruit crate from the docks padded out and enough room for 2 kids and my Dog. Pedals etc came from a Rudge bicycle, which really should have been saved. They were rolls royce machines. Awaiting the next installment. The next runabout was an Austin 7 with no body and a sofa to sit on. It flamed nicely from the exhaust but never frightened the horses in the field. AKA Goodwood.
I had to get it running first; the best present ever to keep me out of trouble in the school holidays.
So glad I found this channel, thanks for allowing us to come along on the ride
Thank you for the effort and explanation. Reminds me of my efforts as a child when I didn’t have any experience or money. Looking forward to your progress.
Great stuff Tim , jobs moving on !!the burred walnut dash looks like it could do with a polish tho !!😂
I swear tim, you could build a super collider with vise grips, plywood and galvanized pipe! Good innovation here! :)
That looks great. I suggest leaf springs on the rear axle as that will make driving more comfortable.
He could do another shock-cord suspension for that solid rear axle, but of course then it would need some kind of locating arms too.
Trying to keep the weight down. Maybe a fiberglass mono leaf spring transverse mounted?
@@Jeeptek1 Certainly a transverse leaf spring is the simplest way to go, but I doubt a fiberglass one is in the budget.
Outstanding job on that car Tim, pretty sure you will have it all sorted out by the next video.
Fantastic 😊RUclips channel....well done. 👏
Interesting & varied content that is fun to watch. I shake your hand 🖐 sir 😊
Hi Tim. You might try changing the centre strut for 2 much thinner ones with bracing between. Might be lighter and stronger than 1 thick piece, and would also give you more options to support the pedals and drive system. You could also cut the front panel into a horse shoe shape for more weight reduction. It's starting to come together.
Yes I was thinking weight is going to be a concern.
A lot of things can be lightened after the fact, but that spine is chunky, and the hardest thing to replace after the fact.
You truly deserve an award sir! Your soo gosh darn talented!!!!
I myself couldn't even come up with any of this stuff... Great work, keep it up!
Good morning to you Tim we love your inventions .We will watch later after a busy day.We need an update from Sandra we haven’t seen her for a while.We know she as a lot to do.Just seems ages since we have seen her.We best wishes.GodBless.💚💚🍀🍀🍀🍀💚☘️☘️☘️🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀💟💟💟💟💟💟💟
I keep reminding her and she's doing her best..
Behind the firewall use 2 sprockets and the bike chain , mount one sprocket to the steering wheel shaft and the other to the steering bracket down below and a jack shaft to the rear axle and an electric car starter motor 12 volts for your helper . Are you having a box in the rear to haul things if so the frame needs to be longer and pillow blocks under the rear end . just my thoughts on the ideas ! So far its looking great
Excellent! This is exactly what I had in mind when I suggested taking cues from velomobile design: a lightweight chassis built around a central load-bearing "spine" that everything attaches to. Good work, I like how it's coming along!
Who was it that said that genius was 99% perspiration and 1% inspiration was right! Keep up the good work!
Each video shows great progress bro. Sure making great viewing too. Safe travels. Ken.
That vice grips, adjustable wrench steering contraption is hilarious
This is just so cool, the fact you are making your own car is amazing, and it’s really turning out great! Fantastic job once again!
My John Deere riding mower has a vertical shaft that goes down underneath the mower and ends in a gear, that meshes with a (for lack of a better word) a different sort of gear that has tie arms to the front wheels. The whole kit using aftermarket parts is not that expensive and might be worth a look. If you're interested I can send links for you to get a closer look at my sad attempt of explaining it. I love watching these videos.
Thanks - yes please. If it's not too much hassle. Email address in description
I really like that the parts you are using aren't shiny and new from the hardware store but sourced from you scrap pile. Impressive indeed.
You could also use inner tubes for springs. Als you can use those inner tubes for a traffle stop of the swing arm. If you would have just one wheel at the back you shave off some weight aswel. Also you would not need a differentieal. You could shafe off some weight of the wooden beems. Every littlebit of weight off is good. You can make the body from bed sheets and wood glue and paint or epoxy.
That's coming together very nicely.
Lots of good ideas in these videos! Keep going!
Gluelam, make a glue laminated beam for the spine, incredibly strong and light, can be any shape you want and could double as a conduit for wires etc.
Wonderful! Perhaps a wooden I-beam could save weight and material, or some sort of light wood box member design, with the steering column running through the center of it? Either should add stiffness and reduce weight..
I'm pretty sure that if you incorporate that beer keg into this project it will turn out GREAT! 😁
Perfect! The first thing that hits a bump in the road is the steering linkage! That can never go wrong! Rather take a wheel flying off then the idea of losing anything in the steering. Even preferer losing brakes. At least if you catch the loss of brakes you have options. Not so much if wheels lock up or starts to do there own thing!
Imagen if kids had stuff like this when growing up. Sigh.
The puppies made me smile.
Brilliant work as ever Tim! Bravo, bravo, and keep on going! I promise to build one if you get yours finished
A great source of universal joints for steering in homebrew projects are the cheapest u-joint adapters you find for ratchets. Then just weld them to rebar and bobs your auntie, you have a steering rack.
What a lark! You always make me laugh grin or giggle. Thanks Tim
I used a old hand drill on a go cart , attached steering column to chuck and connecting rods to wheels from crank
Looking like a car, like you said.
Great progress in the construction.
Maybe it can be modified for solar and electric assisted. A trailer with more solar, and it can drive as long as the sun is out.
My first thought trying to make an angled steering column would be to run your steering wheel axle all the way down through the frame at an angle, put a bar on the bottom and connect your steering rods between the two. But then if you're using a central spine for your frame, that would compromise most of the structural integrity, not to mention put the steering rods in position where they're likely to fowl the pedals, unless you run the pedals high and the steering rods very low, risking scraping the ground in rough terrain.
This may be a bit out there, but have you considered reversing the design to have rear wheel steering? This way you could just cut the central support at an angle once it goes past the rear-turned-front axle and mount your steering column to that. You'd have to run steering rods all the way to the back, however, you'd have a lot more flexibility in where to mount them since you could more freely make the steering column longer or shorter, and that would give you shorter path to the other axle for your power, which might balance out the weight with fewer materials being needed there. Plus if you end up adding a motor to it, you can mount that above the steering column, directly above the drive axle, with that weight over top of the drive wheels and giving you the best traction.
As for the vertical steering it reminds me of an the 1916 Autocar coal truck Jay Leno has. Also, any progress on the backyard railroad? As for crossing the rail-line a “diamond crossing” is the easiest answer to that issue. Though I would create two switches connecting the perpendicular rail-lines (or have room to for it in the future). I also suggest a siding to place rolling stock on and “run around” to the other end when you have a small locomotive that is capable of running the entire line (unfortunately I doubt Tornado would be able to do such without being refilled multiple times). I would suggest making a 4 axle locomotive with the same mechanism used in some GE 44 Tonners that are still kicking around here in the US. Each bogie has the two axles powered by a large heavy-duty chain that is then connected to an output from the engine (not directly). This would allow the locomotive to have a large amount of tractive effort as the system needs to be robust and it would help to move wood up a significant grade without having to bring one car a time up a hill.
It's been very wet here, so the railway project was on hold, but I hope to get something down for next time
speed holes are always great! she's shaping up really nice Tim, great work. have you seen the beams for house framing that are sort of skeletonized? instead of being a 2x8 or whatever it has a thin runner on each side and then the gap is criss crossed with dowels to provide the width. I believe they use those for extra insulation value (can fit foam in between the studs for more R value I suppose) perhaps you could use something like that for the main chassis length and a shorter section for the rear.
Good idea - but I wouldn't want anywhere for the water to sit..
It is really coming together quickly! 😁👍😁
Looking good! If you can add some caster to the wheels, it will help it go straight and give you more reliable, predictable steering.
Well done, getting there.
The big central plank might be better left alone to keep the centre of gravity low - perhaps it feels different sat in it, but it looked a bit top heavy and wobbly in that last shot!
I bet his wife was so amazed and proud at the end seeing him build something like that and feeling so lucky that he's her husband. She's a lucky woman.
oh that's quite nice! My first thought on steering was that the wires could secure to a nice easy round slightly smaller than the wheel, giving you a touch of mechanical leverage and a touch of slowness on the steering action. Can't wait to see the next step!
It's terrific! It's really taking shape and your ideas are amazing. 👍😊
I may have already said this Tim, but it is videos like yours that make RUclips worth watching! Again, well done! Can you add railroad wheels and use it on the track?
it is better to make the main spinal beam of a square section or a T-shaped one ...
yes, I would also advise to increase the shoulders of the rocking chairs so that the control becomes smoother ...
May I advice to take a flat steel strap and wrap it around your central spine, from side, below to other side. where the end of your forward metal pipe is. Because there is alot of downwards force, on that one screw holding it in now. IT will possibly come out at the fourth big bump you go over.
Otherwise this is really cool to follow!
Ah a few minuts further in the video I see you have encountered my thought up problem, and wrapped a ratchest strap around it to do that job XD
While there is a man who can make a wooden car, there is hope for the world. And besides, the chickens seem to be thrilled by it too.
The problem with the steering is that if you run into something you impale yourself, plus the clerance underneath. if you bump something underneath and the car changes direction and you run into something, it is impalement time. Like the design of the car, you can also lighten the central collom by geting 2 two by fors and puting plywood in the middle like an I beam.
When i was a kid my brother and i made a push cart thing, not nearly as fancy of a deaign as yours though. It was basically just a box with handtruck wheels, and we would push each other around the block. The steering was the hardest part, but we ended up doing something very similar to you, with the cables and such. Thank you for the amazing videos. If I am ever in Wales I am stopping by to help. 😊
Thanks, Dennis! (Except we're in Ireland!)
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 .... Well... Yeah it's a very different place. My bad. Thanks Tim, I will change my itinerary. :)
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299thanks to both of you for my first laugh out loud chuckle of the day!
Great Job ... I love it ... Greetings from France
Horizontal steering is not an issue, the lower the car is, usually the more horizontal the steering gets. However, I think that in your case it would be a good idea to make the vertical plank shorter, and the steering wheel lower, it would make for a more comfortable driving style.
Also, since there isn't much steering angle, you could just replace the steering wholesale with a handlebar, which would continue the bike theme!
if that steering mechanism catches on something you're going to be forces left or right, i would try to get it above the wheels instead of below so you can accommodate clearance.
You could be right!
You are having great fun building this tim. I just hope there aren't too many hill near you...because its already 4 tines the weight of a mid spec racing bicycle, and we all know how hard it is to pedal a bike up a hill.... just a thought
it will have a motor though
Simply amazing.
At this point we call it "Seifenkiste". When you added the drive we call it "Kettkar".
Sandra knows this words 😉
I worry about ground clearance on that steering rack. One bad rock and not only are you going to bottom out but jerk the steering in one direction or the other.
I love how it looks! 👍👍
Loving seeing this develop Tim!
If you are not trying to reinvent the wheel, as it were, you could fashion a rack and pinion out of an old bicycle sprocket and chain. Just a thought.
Best of luck!
Brilliant Tim, looks like a fun ride! :D Do I see a new baby dog, commonly called a puppy??🐶
Maybe! Sandra keeps saying she'll be putting up a video soon..
Amazing work. Do t forget your breaks, or it'll be a car-tastrophe
Brilliant job!
A good way to save on weight would be to use a wooden skeleton and do the outer walls/fairings with coroplast. It's inexpensive, lightweight, rather durable for its weight, and waterproof.
Quite similar to a lotus elan chassis. Except their central beam was hollow. 👍
It's lovely! I love it!
Great looking project. I enjoy the updates, thanks. Has ground clearance suffered in mounting steering underneath? Does that even matter?
To "add" lightness I wonder how 4" plastic waste pipe would do? Lots of connectors about the place to make shapes with along with routing holes in the wood to join them up. 2 lengths might make a stronger spine along with giving storage for batteries and a brolly like a Rolls Royce!
Might want to tack-weld a wide enough plate on that steering column so it's less likely to turn into a skewer in the event of a crash. Either that or try to figure out how to make a collapsible column, which has been one of those staple automotive safety features ever since it was invented.
How fun is that.
You could Mill out pockets in a diagonal pattern from your central spar
No matter what it looks like a lot of fun!
The cable running the steering needs to be wrapped round 2 spools behind the steering wheel. This way the pull on the cable is always the same no matter what position the steering wheel is in. You could also adjust the ratio.
Excellent.👍
Of course, I don’t really know, but I’d bet the original cars in the film had a thin steel tube ‘space-frame’ chassis with thin wooden and textile bodywork. Light weight is going to be key to success here surely. Steel tube would make mounting your pedal mechanism easier, and would make the suspension both lighter and (probably) better and stiffer. But then, the Mosquito was a wonderfully successful aeroplane! Though they didn’t make the guns out of wood… Les in UK
I imagine they might have had a piece of string pulling them along too : - )
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 Priceless! No doubt you’re correctx👍
Another steering option is to steer one wheel, and then attach the other wheel to that one, instead of attaching both wheels to the steering wheel. So the steering wheel controls road wheel A, and then road wheel A controls road wheel B.
Im sure you notice, but with your steering on the bottom you run the risk of damage if you go over too large a bump or sharp inclines. Awesome idea, keep it up!
Sir, you do realise that upon am unwanted but significant frontal impact, that steering assembly will be aimed right at your heart. I urge you to put a universal coupling in line so that it will absorb the energy in some other direction, than your rib cage.
Tim, you've just invented the wooden Mazda MX5, take a look at their design, it's near perfect, and I'm sure yours will be too.
Why do you need a universal joint to change the steering wheel???
The shaft is only there to mount the steering wheel, the actual connection is done with the wires, and pulleys can be used to redirect the forces of those.
Ps have you considered brake cable? Would make routing easier and probably improve feel
lots of work👏
ok, time to pipe up...
you have to do some research on steering geometry.
things like kingpin inclination, scrub axle radius...
you want those kingpins drilled at an angle so they interesect the contact point of the tyre or you get horrid bump steer. vertical? the wheel is hanging out about 5 inches from the pivot line from what i can see here.
you need caster, tilting them backwards so the contact patch is always trailing behind the pivot line.
together, they give "self centering", the tendency to pull back into a straight line. stability.
you need akermans... you cant just wack tie rods onto arms any old way and expect the wheels to follow the correct lines when steering. that (looks like) 3 inch space between tie rod ends on the steering arm by itself throws everything off.
basically, considering tie rod arms on column and kingpins to be of equal length, then a line drawn from kingpin to rear axle will intersect with tie rod ends...
any deviation from the basic layout requires slight modifications to bring the arcs of the wheels back into line as you steer...
throw in suspension and the location of pivot points becomes critical so everything follows the same arc, otherwise you get bump steer during suspension travel...
this is all really easy stuff to set up when dealing with timber. flip the drill press table this way, that way, cut a wedge and throw the vice over at a compound angle...
when everything is right, it glides. its easy. it does what its told.
when everythings slapped together any old how it... fights. you want wheels losing traction from being driven on the limit, not from bad geometry forcing them to "scrub". you want wheels to point where theyre supposed to point...
theres centuries of research done into steering geometry. why not take advantage of it?
Thanks, but I've been working on all those. It's not easy to see in such a rough bodge-up, but there is castor and kingpin inclination and Ackerman steering. It will become clearer in the next videos, I hope, because the suspension just wasn't good enough in these first ones...
I think your defiantly working in a direction. I have a few questions.
What are you trying to make ?
A quadracycle ? Isn’t the rolling friction of two wheels more efficient?
And aren’t there materials that have a better weight to strength ratio than wood that would be as cost efficient?
What about just putting two bikes together and making a cockpit between ??
A pedal-assist quadricycle, yes.
For the same reason you might have a car - more stable, more visible, less rain : - )
Wood is perfect for most of this build, I think.
Two bikes cobbled together? Clunky, very heavy, awkward to get into..
Nice work
A steering wheel? Wow, that is luxury.
Thanks Tim
Standard Lotus chassis...just needs some inboard disc brakes...Super
Hello i love this channel so much cuz i can lern how to build tracks and other stuff
Your workshop looks like mine.
Not sure if this should be an ad for Vice Grips or a warning about their misuse.
Please put the steering mechanism above the suspension so when you inevitably bottom out on the rough terrain it doesn't break anything!
Good thinking
Wonderful!
Neat, but there seems to be more metal then needed in this Wooden car as the steering bits could just as well be made by wood.
do the connecting rods for the steering not now hinder the suspension?
They go up and down with the suspension arms so it's not a problem
Brilliant!
You could maybe reduce the upper frame to spars and fabric maybe stabilized trough internal wirers. I don't have the experience to say how feasible that is, but it could reduce weight and make the car easier more aerodynamic .