New to the Mazdaspeed 3 platform and your videos are exceptional. Clean audio and video and very informative. One of the only people making videos to me that’s high quality.
7:40 you can 100% remove the intake manifold without removing the egr tube. just take the 2 bolts out by the top end of it, and it snakes right out, then you can spin the whole thing off by hand.
I didn't realize how much grime and carbon had built up on my valves and in my manifold until I took it apart! I highly recommend Speed 3/6/CX-7 Turbo owners look into doing this, as well as adding an oil catch can!
I am going to take a look again at my valves this summer, I already have the parts in place to add the second can. I try hard with the camera work, still improving! Thanks for checking out my videos!
@Sam S I have found that when I can't find the Mazda part, cross check it and see if there is a Ford equivalent. It has saved myself a couple of headaches and shipping time. Needing an engine is painful, they are not cheap! But if I had a budget (LOL @ having an actual project budget) I would get one built from www.speedperf6rmanc3.com/
Was kinda scared to do the job, but will definitely be doing it now by the help of this video, also ganna be upgrading injector seals while I’m at it. Good content man.
Just a PSA: the serpentine/idler isn't necessary on Gen 2 Speeds. Gen 1s usually require moving the power steering items right there to get the IM off. I just wanted to clarify. When I did the valves on my car, I didn't touch the serpentine. I appreciate you making this vid. I personally found that walnut blasting worked far, far better. If you're set on using a liquid to clean, get M1 methanol. It's usually only a few bucks a gallon, and works amazingly. Spraying methanol (installing WMI injection) is also the perfect way to guarantee you'll never have any build-up again - that stuff is corrosive to buildup! Accordingly, use caution; IIRC, it's carcinogenic, so you definitely don't want any on you.
Walnut blasting is definitely the way to go. When I originally did the vid, I wanted to try a way that didn't include a compressor (not everyone has one) and wanted to show people it was possible to do. Now, I will just tell people buy/rent/borrow a compressor and walnut blast. It took me the entire weekend (editing doesn't really show how much time it takes) to do it this way, media blasting would take 1/4 of the time.
bout to tackle this. just hit 130k on my speed and i don’t think they’ve ever been cleaned 😬. my VTCS is faulty and throwing a code so i think it’s gotten to a climax. wish me luck brother
Great video! I am dreading doing my valves, since I have 120k miles on mine. The OCC and EGR delete are nice and should help keep some of the carbon out. There is a shop in my area that will media blast it for $300. That's kind of pricey, but it maybe worth my time. With 120k miles I am needing to save for struts, ACT 6 puck clutch, end links, control arms, sway bars, and then a big turbo $$$.
I went back and forth on deciding whether or not to pay someone to do it vs doing it myself. I ultimately decided on doing it myself once I figured out that I was going to add the catch can and PCV plate. The cleaning is time consuming, if I were to do it again, I would media blast them, it cuts down on the time considerably. Doing it yourself will definitely allow you to save some cash, the money I saved went directly to more parts!
BTW you will love the 3 inch down pipe liked up a 3 inch exhaust. I have the ATP long pipe to a mangaflow exhaust. Not too loud and not to quiet either. Go for a FMIC too. I did the cxracing o m fmic and it is a big improvement over the stock tmic. The install was a little tricky, but worth it. You may want to add a turbo inlet pipe next. Have fun.
I have seen some crazy plugged up VW intakes when I was doing the research for this. Those videos were the reason that I took my car apart to look and I was glad I did! It has been awhile since I did this, I am probably going to remove the intake manifold this summer and take a look at my valves.
gracias man. estoy casi terminando de retirar el air intake manifold en mi 2009 cx7 mazda, y la verdad no sabia como limpiar esa parte de la admision. encontre desconectada y rota la manguera de la pcv valve y para cambiarla necesite hacer todo este trabajo. aun espero la valvula que compre en rockauto pero ya tengo clara una idea de como limpiar mientras llega la pieza. saludos y me suscribi.
hey buddy, i brought a cx7 2009 as project and this car have serious fuel dillusion issue followed with loss of acceleration after 2500 rpm and codes for solenoid corelation and all, after seeing this, i am heading towards this direction and planning to change oil sepereator and PCV.. hope that helps
It is one of those things that doesnt get talked about much but it is definitely something that should be done. After you clean them, I would add a oil catch can too.
What about changing a valve? My number three has low compression. I don’t know if it’s intake or exhaust that needs replacing. That’s what I’m hoping it is. Please refrain from telling me it’s a warped head or warped anything👍🏼, that would break my heart. I enjoy my MS3 very much. She got me $305 speeding ticket. We are pretty much BFFs
Did you try squirting some oil in the cylinder and checking the compression again? Usually low compression is piston rings related. So chances are it isn't a warped head 😊
I did dry/wet test. Piston ring is a bit of a pain for a novice but I am mechanically inclined. Pulling cams from chain scare me a little. Thanks for not telling me what I fear most👍🏼
hey buddy love your videos excellent explanation, on another note i have a question is it possible to delete the egr valve on a 2002 mazda protoge5 any help would be greatly appreciated thanks. keep the videos coming
How do I close each valves before cleaning ?!?! I really hope you can answer in the next hour so 😢 . Two of my valves are very much open and I don’t know how to force shut them .
Randy have you upgraded to the Corksport injector seals or any plans to? If so please take us along for the ride. I'm wanting to do that and send the injectors off to speedperf6rmanc3 for cleaning/checking. The list of "while I have the car apart" is growing too long for me, but hoping to do my the same things you've done during this series soon. I'm at 86k miles on my gen1 and am working up the courage to do the cleaning and get the OCC in. Got the EGR deleted and coolant bypassed this last weekend. Awesome videos, keep it up!
I have already, but I want to redo them again this summer (I didn't clean my injectors last time and the car is coming apart anyway) so I will definitely add this to the upcoming video list! Yeah the "while I am in there" list can become a monster quickly! It is how I ended up basically rebuilding my Miata 😆
@@FiveFiveGarage Sounds good! Will look forward to it. If you haven't already come across them these guys know how to clean and inspect the injectors for sure! www.speedperf6rmanc3.com/products/injector-service.html
It is a bit of wrenching no doubt! I haven't found a recommended interval anywhere, but while I was looking stuff up there were owners with less mileage than mine who were having significant carbon build up. I decided that mine had probably never been done and figured that I might as well. I am adding some parts to help cut down on the carbon build-up while I have the car apart, with the intake manifold out of the way, it is so much easier to be able to replace the pcv valve!
Even though I have a Focus ST I like your videos, keep them coming. Have you tried the Focus ST intake manifold on your Speed 3? I think Damond is testing or has something that allows you to use it as I believe it flows better.
Great video! Hey, I removed the 12mm bolts on the power steering pump but the pump won't budge! Any ideas? There's only 2 bolts right? Is the thing like gasket sealed to the engine or what?
The power steering pump or the idler pulley? The idler pulley required a little PB Blaster once I got the bolts loose to get it free of the engine block.
If I replaced the crank shaft position sensor do I have to align it with a specific tooth? Maybe a video? I think I'm having issues at full throttle because it's not aligned
Yes, there is but there are a couple of steps that you need to do first. I will link the service manual instructions: imgur.com/a/2m3Fi. Hopefully this helps you out!
I rotated the engine over at the crank with a socket/ratchet, you can look into the port and see when each valve closes. They won't all be closed at the same time. I worked my way across from left to right. Unfortunately, there isn't a way to close them all without removing the cams from the head.
About that power steering pump? Did you add a comment down below and I missed it, or is it in another video. Did you take the passenger side wheel off and go in that way? It doesn't appear so from the video, but I can't really tell.
I have a dumb question, but I was trying to get the intake off of my speed 6 and broke the plastic hose off of the intake manifold that runs to the firewall of the car. I cannot seem to figure out what the part is called, any help would be helpful
The inlet pipe before the turbo? The only lines I can think of runs to the boost controller, but that should be rubber unless its so old it hardened up like it was plastic. If you are removing the inlet pipe, its common to break that one.
I haven't heard about the exhaust valves getting gnarly before! How bad was it? I am definitely going to do some research into this, thanks for bringing it up!
It was diagnosed at the dealer, so I didn't get to see it for myself unfortunately. They suggested replacing the whole engine. I told them they are crazy! I'm taking it to my local garage on the corner this week, so maybe I'll get a better picture of the problem. I have 129,000 miles on the car.
That's nuts! The buildup can be bad, but not new engine bad! It can be cleaned, walnut media blasting really cleans up the valves, it's a good idea to get a second opinion!
what i never understood is on the NA Mazda 3 cars (which i own) they use multi port injection but on the boosted cars its direct injection..yet EVERY person i know who runs a Mazda speed car adds a port fuel rail as the turbo cars seem to run out of fuel at boost, even on stock components..you add power and the extra fuel rail is a MUST..why not have a port fuel rail and every so often a valve opens and it sprays fuel thru the port rail cleaning the valves and also adds extra fuel when it detects a lean condition under boost..
The stock fuel setup (once the High Pressure Fuel Pump internals are upgraded) is good up until ~400hp (it is why HPFP internals are the first recommended mod to be done to the car) above that is when you have to get creative. You can add a 6th port that gets added to the throttle body that does what you are describing without too much engineering of the manifold. But then you are also adding another fuel pump, a secondary fuel controller, etc. You can buy kits to do it, Kozmic Motorsports has one. It is pricey but it allows you to use so many different setups ( Water/Meth injection, E85, etc) that if you are going big turbo it is worth it. I am thinking of adding one just to be able to keep the valves clean. A catch can on these cars is a must.
That's definitely the next step in Direct Injection. Toyota/Lexus uses both port and direct injection to keep the valves clean, and give better control over fuel with direct injection.
Trust me, if I had to do it again, walnut blasting will definitely be the way to go! I did it this way to show people that it could be done with simple stuff, just time consuming.
If you have an 07 and its never been done, yes. DI engines are horrible with the build-up (VW and Audi suffer the same thing) and it causes the engine to lose performance.
@@FiveFiveGarage I asked a local shop how much to do this and clean injectors and replace seals. I died a little wen he said, "about $1700". No way. I would try this myself. But its my daily. And I live in an apt. Can't break it down in the car port lol. Still looking for a solution.
Unfortunately, it does involve a bit of tear down, so you are going to need a place you can have it apart for a bit. Getting the injectors and seals out can be a PITA too, I had an injector stuck and one of the retaining bolts did not want to come out. I snapped two impact torx bits, before I had to hit it with a torch to remove. When you shop around for a shop to do it, ask if they have any experience with the Mazda DISI engine, they are very finicky to work with.
So late to the party, but this is exactly the video I needed. I couldn’t get the intake manifold off for the life of me, but now I can finally get to my starter. Also, HUGE props for the safety. You can go blind or lose a finger really quick if you aren’t thinking about safety.
If you really want to do it fast and get them super clean. You need a media blaster and walnut media. You can do it this way, but it took me an entire weekend using chemicals (B12 Chemtool) and a lot of scraping (I used some dental picks to get at the stubborn pieces). I did another speed with media blasting and all the valves looked like new in 20 minutes. Media blasting is definitely the way to go!
I just got a second gen myself and Wes worried about working on them. Having dealt with FWD cars in the past and this one being turbo I thought it would be a bitch to work on. This car is a pleasure to wrench on. Everything is very accessible and comes apart easily and also goes back together easily. I really fucking love this car. The more I drive it the more I fall in love with it. Eventually in going to go methanol injection and I'm hoping that will help keep the valves clean.
It might not be too bad, but it is one of those things that eventually has to be done. But I can tell you that you do get a peace of mind after you clean them. Also gives you a chance to do some intake manifold work for better airflow!
I have been reading up on turbo upgrades, it is soooo tempting, especially since I am going to be adding a downpipe soon. My whole thinking is,"I am going to be back there anyway, might as well!!!"
I was looking at a GTX2867, but...if I buy a spare MS3 engine, I can build it up AND run a 3071. Probably going to need additional sources of income to cover all of this too...LOL!
Ahah yup same turbo I was looking at to ahaha so I'm guessing if u do do that u would sell the one u got now. Would u do the full build or jus bottom end
Full build. With a spare I can take the time and spread the costs out. It would be the business to have a built to the hilt motor that I know would be safe at higher boost levels! I wish there was a way I could add AWD to the Speed 3!
New to the Mazdaspeed 3 platform and your videos are exceptional. Clean audio and video and very informative. One of the only people making videos to me that’s high quality.
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
He's so wholesome.
Just picked up a speed6 and will be using your vids for the maintenance and mods to come, thank you so much!!!
7:40 you can 100% remove the intake manifold without removing the egr tube. just take the 2 bolts out by the top end of it, and it snakes right out, then you can spin the whole thing off by hand.
I didn't realize how much grime and carbon had built up on my valves and in my manifold until I took it apart! I highly recommend Speed 3/6/CX-7 Turbo owners look into doing this, as well as adding an oil catch can!
I am going to take a look again at my valves this summer, I already have the parts in place to add the second can. I try hard with the camera work, still improving! Thanks for checking out my videos!
@Sam S I have found that when I can't find the Mazda part, cross check it and see if there is a Ford equivalent. It has saved myself a couple of headaches and shipping time. Needing an engine is painful, they are not cheap! But if I had a budget (LOL @ having an actual project budget) I would get one built from www.speedperf6rmanc3.com/
Was kinda scared to do the job, but will definitely be doing it now by the help of this video, also ganna be upgrading injector seals while I’m at it. Good content man.
You should consider just getting a oil catch can instead of having to clean it repeatedly.
Just seeing this, ima definitely look into this as my car started to misfire again! Smh
Just a PSA: the serpentine/idler isn't necessary on Gen 2 Speeds. Gen 1s usually require moving the power steering items right there to get the IM off. I just wanted to clarify. When I did the valves on my car, I didn't touch the serpentine.
I appreciate you making this vid. I personally found that walnut blasting worked far, far better. If you're set on using a liquid to clean, get M1 methanol. It's usually only a few bucks a gallon, and works amazingly. Spraying methanol (installing WMI injection) is also the perfect way to guarantee you'll never have any build-up again - that stuff is corrosive to buildup! Accordingly, use caution; IIRC, it's carcinogenic, so you definitely don't want any on you.
Walnut blasting is definitely the way to go. When I originally did the vid, I wanted to try a way that didn't include a compressor (not everyone has one) and wanted to show people it was possible to do. Now, I will just tell people buy/rent/borrow a compressor and walnut blast. It took me the entire weekend (editing doesn't really show how much time it takes) to do it this way, media blasting would take 1/4 of the time.
Awesome video Randy. You gave me the confidence to take this project on. Not something I want to do frequently. Thanks for getting me through this :)
No problem! We are all in this together!
Nice videos really help guys like me that are new to the mazdaspeed3
bout to tackle this. just hit 130k on my speed and i don’t think they’ve ever been cleaned 😬. my VTCS is faulty and throwing a code so i think it’s gotten to a climax. wish me luck brother
Good luck and let me know how it goes!
Great video! I am dreading doing my valves, since I have 120k miles on mine. The OCC and EGR delete are nice and should help keep some of the carbon out. There is a shop in my area that will media blast it for $300. That's kind of pricey, but it maybe worth my time. With 120k miles I am needing to save for struts, ACT 6 puck clutch, end links, control arms, sway bars, and then a big turbo $$$.
I went back and forth on deciding whether or not to pay someone to do it vs doing it myself. I ultimately decided on doing it myself once I figured out that I was going to add the catch can and PCV plate. The cleaning is time consuming, if I were to do it again, I would media blast them, it cuts down on the time considerably. Doing it yourself will definitely allow you to save some cash, the money I saved went directly to more parts!
BTW you will love the 3 inch down pipe liked up a 3 inch exhaust. I have the ATP long pipe to a mangaflow exhaust. Not too loud and not to quiet either. Go for a FMIC too. I did the cxracing o m fmic and it is a big improvement over the stock tmic. The install was a little tricky, but worth it. You may want to add a turbo inlet pipe next. Have fun.
Awesome info and visual aid before i dive into it. This is an issue with all the direct injection engines not just mazda. Vw its a big issue too.
I have seen some crazy plugged up VW intakes when I was doing the research for this. Those videos were the reason that I took my car apart to look and I was glad I did! It has been awhile since I did this, I am probably going to remove the intake manifold this summer and take a look at my valves.
I wish I found this channel earlier
Thanks for sharing the knowledge and vibes. You have definitely inspired me to get this done this month.
Use a shopvac with graduating hoses to about 1/2 to 3/4 inch and just suck it all out!!! No oily mess everywhere, simple!
Your videos are very well done. I appreciate the effort and the quality. New sub here.
gracias man. estoy casi terminando de retirar el air intake manifold en mi 2009 cx7 mazda, y la verdad no sabia como limpiar esa parte de la admision. encontre desconectada y rota la manguera de la pcv valve y para cambiarla necesite hacer todo este trabajo. aun espero la valvula que compre en rockauto pero ya tengo clara una idea de como limpiar mientras llega la pieza. saludos y me suscribi.
hey buddy, i brought a cx7 2009 as project and this car have serious fuel dillusion issue followed with loss of acceleration after 2500 rpm and codes for solenoid corelation and all, after seeing this, i am heading towards this direction and planning to change oil sepereator and PCV.. hope that helps
It is one of those things that doesnt get talked about much but it is definitely something that should be done. After you clean them, I would add a oil catch can too.
Blech! I really don’t want to do this one. But at my mileage, I need too. Does anyone know of the dealership will do this one?
What about changing a valve? My number three has low compression. I don’t know if it’s intake or exhaust that needs replacing. That’s what I’m hoping it is. Please refrain from telling me it’s a warped head or warped anything👍🏼, that would break my heart. I enjoy my MS3 very much. She got me $305 speeding ticket. We are pretty much BFFs
Did you try squirting some oil in the cylinder and checking the compression again? Usually low compression is piston rings related. So chances are it isn't a warped head 😊
I did dry/wet test. Piston ring is a bit of a pain for a novice but I am mechanically inclined. Pulling cams from chain scare me a little. Thanks for not telling me what I fear most👍🏼
hey buddy love your videos excellent explanation, on another note i have a question is it possible to delete the egr valve on a 2002 mazda protoge5 any help would be greatly appreciated thanks. keep the videos coming
It is possible. You might need to source up some block off plates for the cylinder head and a plug for the exhaust manifold.
Thanks for the quick reply I appreciate it greatly
How do I close each valves before cleaning ?!?! I really hope you can answer in the next hour so 😢 . Two of my valves are very much open and I don’t know how to force shut them .
Nvm I found out , it’s from the crank pulley for anyone with the same question.
Yep use the crank bolt to spin it over to close the valves.
Randy have you upgraded to the Corksport injector seals or any plans to? If so please take us along for the ride. I'm wanting to do that and send the injectors off to speedperf6rmanc3 for cleaning/checking. The list of "while I have the car apart" is growing too long for me, but hoping to do my the same things you've done during this series soon. I'm at 86k miles on my gen1 and am working up the courage to do the cleaning and get the OCC in. Got the EGR deleted and coolant bypassed this last weekend. Awesome videos, keep it up!
I have already, but I want to redo them again this summer (I didn't clean my injectors last time and the car is coming apart anyway) so I will definitely add this to the upcoming video list!
Yeah the "while I am in there" list can become a monster quickly! It is how I ended up basically rebuilding my Miata 😆
@@FiveFiveGarage Sounds good! Will look forward to it. If you haven't already come across them these guys know how to clean and inspect the injectors for sure! www.speedperf6rmanc3.com/products/injector-service.html
They were who I was going to go with for the service. Also was looking at their built blocks for a different project I am not supposed to talk about 😆
looks like a lot of work. lol. what are the intervals that this needs to be done?
reminds me of brushing your cars teeth, floss, and mouthwash.
It is a bit of wrenching no doubt! I haven't found a recommended interval anywhere, but while I was looking stuff up there were owners with less mileage than mine who were having significant carbon build up. I decided that mine had probably never been done and figured that I might as well. I am adding some parts to help cut down on the carbon build-up while I have the car apart, with the intake manifold out of the way, it is so much easier to be able to replace the pcv valve!
Even though I have a Focus ST I like your videos, keep them coming. Have you tried the Focus ST intake manifold on your Speed 3? I think Damond is testing or has something that allows you to use it as I believe it flows better.
I have been reading up on that and I am seriously thinking it over. That Damond kit looks the business!
Great video! Hey, I removed the 12mm bolts on the power steering pump but the pump won't budge! Any ideas? There's only 2 bolts right? Is the thing like gasket sealed to the engine or what?
The power steering pump or the idler pulley? The idler pulley required a little PB Blaster once I got the bolts loose to get it free of the engine block.
Actually there is three one on the underside of the pump beside pulley it's a pain to get to
If anyone is going to get a MPS better be following!!!
If I replaced the crank shaft position sensor do I have to align it with a specific tooth? Maybe a video? I think I'm having issues at full throttle because it's not aligned
Yes, there is but there are a couple of steps that you need to do first. I will link the service manual instructions: imgur.com/a/2m3Fi. Hopefully this helps you out!
Five Five Garage awesome thanks!
@@FiveFiveGarage would that be same procedure on speed6 as well?
It "should" be. It is basically the same engine and sensor so I don't see why it should be different. Double check the procedure to make sure!
You didn't show how you closed each of the valves. Can you let them all soak overnight? I didn't think they were all closed at the same time...
I rotated the engine over at the crank with a socket/ratchet, you can look into the port and see when each valve closes. They won't all be closed at the same time. I worked my way across from left to right. Unfortunately, there isn't a way to close them all without removing the cams from the head.
About that power steering pump? Did you add a comment down below and I missed it, or is it in another video. Did you take the passenger side wheel off and go in that way? It doesn't appear so from the video, but I can't really tell.
Yes. Take the passenger wheel off and go at it that way. You take the inner fender/cover off and can get to it that way.
While your in there do the injector seals and egr delete...... hell you have it apart
On the list for upcoming videos!
thank you for your videos sir
Sweet! Im gonna do this now lol should be fairly the same for the gen 1 right? Subbed.
Yeah it is pretty much the same.
hey subbed! do you need a compressor? or is towels and brushes enough?
Compressed air makes it easier to clean out the ports when you are cleaning. I would definitely recommend one, especially if you have a media blaster.
@@FiveFiveGarage how long does it take to do the whole project..
Doing it with brushes and towels, it will take a weekend. If you have access to a media blaster it can be done in a day.
I have a dumb question, but I was trying to get the intake off of my speed 6 and broke the plastic hose off of the intake manifold that runs to the firewall of the car. I cannot seem to figure out what the part is called, any help would be helpful
The inlet pipe before the turbo? The only lines I can think of runs to the boost controller, but that should be rubber unless its so old it hardened up like it was plastic. If you are removing the inlet pipe, its common to break that one.
Ugh don’t look forward to doing this rn
You need some more subscribers my dude!
Working on it!
What torque specs did you use to reinstall the IM and in which order, can’t find any website helpful enough.
The IM bolts are torqued to 16 ft/lbs and i used an outside-in criss cross pattern.
What about cleaning the exhaust side? I've got a Mazda CX-7 and the exhaust valves are gnarly.
I haven't heard about the exhaust valves getting gnarly before! How bad was it? I am definitely going to do some research into this, thanks for bringing it up!
It was diagnosed at the dealer, so I didn't get to see it for myself unfortunately. They suggested replacing the whole engine. I told them they are crazy! I'm taking it to my local garage on the corner this week, so maybe I'll get a better picture of the problem. I have 129,000 miles on the car.
That's nuts! The buildup can be bad, but not new engine bad! It can be cleaned, walnut media blasting really cleans up the valves, it's a good idea to get a second opinion!
Very professional, thumbs up for me...
I wanted to do an EGR delete but it won’t pass emissions in my state
Unplug it
what i never understood is on the NA Mazda 3 cars (which i own) they use multi port injection but on the boosted cars its direct injection..yet EVERY person i know who runs a Mazda speed car adds a port fuel rail as the turbo cars seem to run out of fuel at boost, even on stock components..you add power and the extra fuel rail is a MUST..why not have a port fuel rail and every so often a valve opens and it sprays fuel thru the port rail cleaning the valves and also adds extra fuel when it detects a lean condition under boost..
The stock fuel setup (once the High Pressure Fuel Pump internals are upgraded) is good up until ~400hp (it is why HPFP internals are the first recommended mod to be done to the car) above that is when you have to get creative.
You can add a 6th port that gets added to the throttle body that does what you are describing without too much engineering of the manifold. But then you are also adding another fuel pump, a secondary fuel controller, etc. You can buy kits to do it, Kozmic Motorsports has one. It is pricey but it allows you to use so many different setups ( Water/Meth injection, E85, etc) that if you are going big turbo it is worth it.
I am thinking of adding one just to be able to keep the valves clean. A catch can on these cars is a must.
@@FiveFiveGarage i have a non turbo car and i added a catch can..makes a HUGE difference..
That's definitely the next step in Direct Injection. Toyota/Lexus uses both port and direct injection to keep the valves clean, and give better control over fuel with direct injection.
😎👌
Local Illinois resident? Curious because of the Sox shirt and the Illini cap :0
Yep! Although at some point I need to find better teams to root for...LOL!
like the back ground music. walnut blasting is a much better and cleaner process. but great job anyways!!
Trust me, if I had to do it again, walnut blasting will definitely be the way to go! I did it this way to show people that it could be done with simple stuff, just time consuming.
You still have this MS3 platform? I have a 07 gen one. Think about doing this. Is it worth the effort? (or the $$ I'm going to pay to have it done)?
If you have an 07 and its never been done, yes. DI engines are horrible with the build-up (VW and Audi suffer the same thing) and it causes the engine to lose performance.
@@FiveFiveGarage I asked a local shop how much to do this and clean injectors and replace seals. I died a little wen he said, "about $1700". No way. I would try this myself. But its my daily. And I live in an apt. Can't break it down in the car port lol. Still looking for a solution.
Unfortunately, it does involve a bit of tear down, so you are going to need a place you can have it apart for a bit. Getting the injectors and seals out can be a PITA too, I had an injector stuck and one of the retaining bolts did not want to come out. I snapped two impact torx bits, before I had to hit it with a torch to remove. When you shop around for a shop to do it, ask if they have any experience with the Mazda DISI engine, they are very finicky to work with.
So late to the party, but this is exactly the video I needed. I couldn’t get the intake manifold off for the life of me, but now I can finally get to my starter.
Also, HUGE props for the safety. You can go blind or lose a finger really quick if you aren’t thinking about safety.
Right. Replacement human parts arent cheap and Im trying to keep my body OEM as long as possible!
Can someone help please, my engine is apart and I don';t know where in inner coolant line for the throttle body connects to????
The inner line should be routed to the EGR, on the backside of the engine on the drivers side, above the turbo.
Does anyone know what tools he used and the products he used like does someone have a list ?
If you really want to do it fast and get them super clean. You need a media blaster and walnut media. You can do it this way, but it took me an entire weekend using chemicals (B12 Chemtool) and a lot of scraping (I used some dental picks to get at the stubborn pieces). I did another speed with media blasting and all the valves looked like new in 20 minutes. Media blasting is definitely the way to go!
@@FiveFiveGarage what grit should I get the walnut shell should it be fine or coarse
When did u remove the dip stick
Early on, when you go to remove the sensors, the dipstick tube gets removed as well.
How did you get the bottom bolt off?
Ratcheting box end wrench.
I just got a second gen myself and Wes worried about working on them. Having dealt with FWD cars in the past and this one being turbo I thought it would be a bitch to work on. This car is a pleasure to wrench on. Everything is very accessible and comes apart easily and also goes back together easily. I really fucking love this car. The more I drive it the more I fall in love with it. Eventually in going to go methanol injection and I'm hoping that will help keep the valves clean.
For a FWD that isnt a Honda, they are pretty easy to work on.
@@FiveFiveGarage I agree. The fact that people don't maintain these beautiful cars is beyond me. I appreciate the reply and your videos, sir.
Nice done !
Thanks!
Where are the bolts that actually hold the intake on!!? Would've been great if showed where they are
There is a PDF in the links section of the video description that shows how to remove the intake bolts.
Ight i need to do this real soon
Where is the guide for the removal of intake
It was on the mazdaspeed forums but unfortunately that site is gone. A Haynes manual or factory manual is probably going to be your best bet.
really i knew about this guy awhile ago lol
Thank you good job 👍
I'm on 56k on my bnrs3 speed 3 I'm sure mine looks like yours ughhh
It might not be too bad, but it is one of those things that eventually has to be done. But I can tell you that you do get a peace of mind after you clean them. Also gives you a chance to do some intake manifold work for better airflow!
I need to clean mines to since I've been racing the car lol 🙈🙈🙈plus I need a new turbo 👎👎👎 "go big or go home loool"
I have been reading up on turbo upgrades, it is soooo tempting, especially since I am going to be adding a downpipe soon. My whole thinking is,"I am going to be back there anyway, might as well!!!"
Lol trust me it is which turbo were you planning to get. For me I'm going with the corksport for now and after I build engine I may go to Garrett 👌👌
I was looking at a GTX2867, but...if I buy a spare MS3 engine, I can build it up AND run a 3071. Probably going to need additional sources of income to cover all of this too...LOL!
Ahah yup same turbo I was looking at to ahaha so I'm guessing if u do do that u would sell the one u got now. Would u do the full build or jus bottom end
Full build. With a spare I can take the time and spread the costs out. It would be the business to have a built to the hilt motor that I know would be safe at higher boost levels! I wish there was a way I could add AWD to the Speed 3!
Yeah direct injection sucks at having clean intake valves. No fuel to clean em
I think "most people had this done at 30k miles" is not likely. lol
You are probably right lol
this car is the most esoteric import that I've ever owned..lol..
Yeah, I can agree with that statement!
LOL come on man use a shop vac smdh!!!!
Next time definitely!! It would have saved some time!
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥