Helpful tip . If you're experiencing the bolts falling out of the socket when trying to install the new sensor , put a piece of paper towel or a piece of tape over the opening of the 11mm socket. This will snug up the bolt and keep it from falling out of the socket when trying to alien it . Works great for any bolt that's in a position to jst fall out or get lost in the engine compartment. Example, some bolts that hold down the distributor cap don't always stay with the cap when you're trying to unbolt the cap. The bolt will just fall into the Netherworld of forever lost bolts . Use anything thin paperlike that will snug up the bolt to stay in the socket.
I spent a week trying to figure this out. I live in mountain jungle of Chiapas Mexico and I am very lucky this failure did not happen in the middle of nowhere. It is the same symptom as a fuel pump failure and relay failure. Thanks you very, very much!!!
I'm glad you found this video and it helped you out. Yeah the crank Shaft position sensor code many times does not even show up. I carry a code reader with me all the time including many other other parts that could fail on the trail just in case.
@@martinbuilt Thanks again, by the way a cracked intake manifold hose made it even more difficult to detect the problem. I may have cracked it during my hose checking. I purposely use a 1995 4.0 engine system so I don't need a reader I do it by using the ignition key to get the computer codes.
Thanks for the video, really helped me verify a problem "fingers crossed" and the extra long extension is key. I also took of my front drive shaft and it gave me some extra room!
I've been chasing the same problem for weeks on my 99. Replacing sensors after sensors that mechanics recommend. My XJ has never thrown a code. I'm definitely going to try this sensor next.
Very helpful vid. My Jeep kept cutting out and as you say, "the tac went to zero". I originally thought it was a fuel line issue, but it cuts off INSTANTLY
Great video and well documented just might add to be VERY careful that neither of the bolts when loose happen to fall into the hole where the CPS fits, its easily done, some models have a plastic cover that prevents this. Sometimes its missing, mine was and before I realized I had one of the mounting bolts fall through the hole into the bell housing. Had to take the bottom access cover off and use a long magnet to retrieve it. Mechanics tip is to use petroleum jelly so it sticks in the socket especially when putting new one in. However once all connected started immediately, used similar long extension and a ratchet.
This literally happened to me today lol. Had to take the bottoms cover off as well and use a magnet stick to get it out. But good tip using the petroleum jelly👍🏼
Oh man, I wish I had seen this comment first. I just dropped mine in there and spent like 20 minutes looking around for it. I had no idea that hole was there.
Just replaced mine as you did along with your exact method. Was a SOB for me but got it lol. I went 4wheeling up to the top of Mt Siegel at 9500' elevation near Minden, NV and literally when I reached the top and stopped, the Jeep died. I couldn't believe it. Thankfully 10 minutes later it fired again and I went home and replaced it as I have two CPS's on hand. Thank you sir for your video and have subscribed.
Martin you have by far the best most informative videos out there thanks so much for all your help. I’ve used your videos for guidance for over a year now on my 97 XJ.
Thanks, u saved me so much time, heartache, & pain going down a road of parts..... I watched, bought extensions & part, from start to finish it took me 10 minutes. Great tutorial. Mine had the OG sensor, now at 243,000 miles.
Phenomenal Video...now I know the REAL reason so many XJ owners lift their rides! lol Is even less room on a stock 96 XJ, lol But this vid truly helped me understand what I was doing that I could barely see! Props ! PS..... WARNING! Do NOT drop either of the bolts in the holein the bellhousing the sensor goes into!
Great Video. Just what I needed to gain some confidence in doing it myself. I’m a little older so getting in and out of those spaces are tough but this vid made it look relatively easy to do with a little patience. Thanks Buddy for great video….
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. I get the whole older thing I can't wait to get a 4 post and 2 posts lift installed in my new shop.
Thank you Martin... My Son and I have been fighting this issue for a while. We had other crazy codes that just confused us. Finally put in shop for diagnostic's they narrowed it down and only wanted 600 to do the job. Funny but not funny our poor boy shop wanted much less. Thanks again and have a blessed day. 8 -2-2023 Barry and Jeffrey "Colorado"
Hi Martin there is small plastic plate to cover the hole which is in front of the sensor . . I do have Jeep Cherokee and it has one for I already changed the sensor . It is great video you explained every think . Ghassan
Martin as always thank you so much for your wealth of info. For the first time since owning it my wj left me stranded for a couple mins on my way home tonight... tach dropped and felt like misfiring, pulled over and restarted after a min and drove fine. p0320 code, guess its safe to say ill be doing this sensor tomorrow
I have done this on a 2000 XJ. Took a little longer than this video shows (mine isn't as clean), but process was the same a lot of extensions and wobble socket. I had a intermittent failure as described but did not get the code right away. dropped the bolts a couple of times but this is exactly how it works. I now also cay a crank and cam position sensor both in ba of essentials. Both of these things will kill your motor dead and no work around. Heer is my best pro tip. DO NOT buy the cheap knock off no matter how tempting. Pony up the $100 bucks and only do this job once !!!!!! Another tool for those that don't have lift kit. You will need a jack and good jack stands to fit under there. Thanks for all of the great content, really enjoy this chanel.
Just successfully replaced the CPS on my '99 Cherokee. I had about 1.5-2' of extension from the ratchet up. I used a piece of tape to hold onto the screws as I was threading them back in. Place the tape over the socket sticky side facing out and push the bolt into the socket. This should hold it well enough for you to get the thread started. I had to disconnect the front drive shaft to get my arm up in there, but I was very close to being able to do this job without removing it so probably will vary person to person. I have an OBD II bluetooth scanner tool which was giving me the code P1391. I actually had to turn the engine off with the ignition on to clear the code. I tried clearing the code a few times with the engine running and it wouldn't clear. Great video! Thank you!
i had a local shop screw up mine. so next time i did mine. i located the location next to gas pedal right next to the carpeted hump next to the shifter, cut a small hole with a drill bit ,go under and located where bit came out. then using a large hole saw in a drill cut a larger hole,then using sheet metal snips made the hole bigger. now with a light you can see everything and even touch it with your hands. use sheet metal and screws to patch hole pull carpet back into place .mine is a 1988 cherokee this made life sooooo much better .jeep should have done this. also use a cardboard business card to space the sensor so it doesnt scape
How did the local shop screw this up? I called one they told me 85$ to install the Mopar CPS I got from the Jeep dealership. But... I'm afraid they might drop a bolt in the bell housing or something stupid..
they ripped off the cover and threw it away bolts where not tight. like i said when i wrote my reply. i located where it was located next to the drive shaft hump next to the gas pedal .drilled a small hole after pulling carpet back then took a metal hole saw and cut a hole and then enlarged the hole and now i could see and put my hands on the sensor , put a sheet metal patch to cover hole then put carpet back in place. it was a 1988 jep cherokee that i bought new@@foxmulder7616
Hey, my name is mark watching your video. I'm all on Jeep grand Cherokee 2001. hundred and sixty thousand miles Cam sensor I think I replaced through place to camp. The crank sensor 320II guess that code came back up so I replaced the one on the top. I guess, but you're replacing the crank sensor thank you.❤
Great video on a part which can cause such problems. I dropped one of the bolts in the bell housing and then to top it off the part I got from a well known company had a different plug on it and couldn’t work. Only a genuine Mopar part will be the best option.
Im impressed at how easy you made that look. I dont have anywhere near that amount of room down there! Also, it's worth every penny to go with an oem part. About $140ish from the dealer, $80ish from rock auto.
Just did my 2002 TJ 4.0 Manual Transmission. The connection for my crankshaft position sensor is on the passenger side of the vehicle down near the oil pressure sensor. After I completed the job I wondered if I had jacked up the frame slightly and put jackstands under the frame rails (NOT the axles), if that would give me a little more clearance on top of the transmission. Additionally, there is a rubber boot that is supposed to surround the sensor. It was missing on my 275,000 mile vehicle, but I’m going to order and install it within the next week or so. I think contamination from the open hole probably shortened the life of the sensor I replaced. Also, I used an NGK/NTK sensor which is the only other brand, other than Mopar, that I’ll use. Time will tell!
I am having a very similar problem with my 97 tj and from this video I found the wire cover leading to the cps had been resting against the block and had melted to the wire. It is only short circuiting when it's very hot outside. This probably solved my problem.
Thank you. No rust here in southern Nevada. That makes it a lot easier to work on these vehicles. The hood shocks were one of the only things that the previous owner had installed that I really liked.
i read some of the comments i also taught it was a fuel issue im gonna do that in my 92 jeep cherokee thanks good video not one of those mambo jajambo shit from el paso texas thanks
I like the way you cut thru all the bull crap with your videos .sure makes that" pain in the ass job of cps replacement" a bit easier to understand. Thanks
Big help…thanks. Idle was surging from 600 to 1100. Bolts on my ‘97 wrangler 4.0 were 7/16 instead of 11mm. Was able to break loose top bolt from above with box end wrench.
I was skeptical that this would fix my jeep but it did ! Back on the road again definitely recommend trying this sensor before any other major repair , part is about 40$
Glad it worked out for you, Yeah this sensor can cause lots of problems and make you think other things are wrong with your Jeep especially if you're not getting any codes .
@@martinbuilt yeah my 98 gc no codes idling rough like low rpms at idle 200 to 600,kinda sounds like tractor. Stalled couple times,seems run better at 4000rpm.hard to start as well. Changed plugs,tested fuel pressure 50psi running. 45psi off & holds. Will try CPS Monday
@@calvingoodswimmer2944did it work i got a 2000 that's been shutting off no engine light but gave me crankshaft code when i had a feeling and did the ol turn 3 times ghetto code scanner trick ty mopar
thank you.. great video.. helped so much.. had same problem with 97 cherokee i just bought for my daughter with 101k actual miles on it.. this video made it really simple to change! great great camera work also!!!
Grateful for the insight. Though I did get the garage to change the CPS. First problem I have had with my 4L petrol 2002, as I only drive it sparingly here in London (but carry bricks, cement and stuff!) It's only done 67000. It stopped 5x the last 28 miles, started up again each time after a few attempts. Hope it will see me through now on my (83+) last run without having to get anything new. Battered, but best car I have had!
@@martinbuilt Unfortunately, the replacement of the CPS did not change the situation. The car occasionally, and not long after starting, just dies out (though it has run in between incidents for 30 miles or so without doing it at all) , it has happened at least 6+ times in the last 100 miles. I can also feel "voids" when I drive it. Often it just requires two turns of the ignition to get going again but on two occasion it required multiple attempts, I thought I was draining the battery! then the engine revs roar ahead only to drop and die down quickly unless you catch them mid stream and sustain the middle level, and then it settles down within a couple of minutes. It will then run for miles and miles without any problem. I thought it might be a fuel contamination and thought that the petrol filter was under the bonnet but the garage tells me in this 2002 model, its in the tank, so I will take it in again and get them to drain it and see if this is the problem There were instances here in North London of contaminated petrol and "Morrison" one of the supermarkets had to compensate a number of drivers but "Tesco" where I got mine just before the problem started denied they had any such problem. The garage excluded it might be the coil, but then what do I know?
Thank you Martin and wow finally no more searching for a needle in a hay stack. Great video. My jeep is a 1998 and I cherish it. That was the code I had and exactly what you said was happening to me . Cheers
Thank you for watching. I checked out the links I see that the Mopar one is currently unavailable but even though it is unavailable all because you went through my link using that pathway I still get credit for anything you purchase from Amazon. Thank you for your support I really appreciate it.😎👍
Excellent how-to! Exactly what I need to know, no extraneous BS. How well does that 'cabin air intake' work for ya...never seen that before! I'd bet it's better than one of those snorkels, but not as showy. EDIT: Just saw your video on that intake...I originally thought you were actually pulling air from INSIDE the cabin.
Ooh hermano, realmente me ha ayudado bastante tu video, no sé si entiendas el español pero te agradezco por explicar donde se encuentra el sensor y como reemplazarlo. Muchas gracias.
hello again .. will have a video explaining the full time light is activated when in reality it is not activated .. it does not size the tire that is why
If it was there before you started it is most likely falling down inside the bellhousing remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing to retrieve it.
I tried replacing mine with a cheaper aftermarket one and it would barely run.I replaced that one with an oem Mopar one and it ran fine.Now I don't even waste money on cheap sensors,I just get the Mopar brand....
Thank you, yeah, the big tires and lift do help when it comes to working on the underside of the Jeep but not so much when working under the hood. Then it's time to grab the step stool.
One possible reason is that it is well protected in that location. If a common cause of failure is flying rocks etc. then it at least makes some sense.
what do you think about bloking the bell housing hole with a rag or something to avoid possible loss of the bolt down the opening? Just fearful of my future attempt!
I had a random misfire on 2000 xj a few years ago. The cps was the last part I tired and it worked. Fast forward to a few days ago, now my 2001 xj has misfire on #3. My dumbass jumps straight to the cps. No dice. So I do plugs and coil rail. Still no worky. I see on interwebs to swap injectors. Sure enough, misfire followed the injector to #1. I pull it and look again and found a giant crack right down the side of the guilty injector. Note to self: start with the easy stuff first. The worst part is I already knew that!
Great vid my 01 XJ sensor plug didn’t disconnect at the same location. Mine was don’t further closer to the end of the trans and tcase. Wonder if mines wrong
Hi there , can you cut a little hatch on the side of the bell and have an access port there as on the WJ's to reach the sensor easily if on the road or just to make it easier to do the repairs? The sensor was totally diff on my 2002 WJ 4l straight with a single bolt holding it .
@@martinbuilt you're welcome I'm sitting in one now that going a little haywire that might be part of the problem along with the injectors it actually maybe you can advise me it runs great when it's all warmed up but takes a while for it to warm up if you just start it and drive off it goes haywire
I'm having an issue where when warm my oil pressure goes to about zero at a stop or idle, the red check gauges light comes on, and the motor dies. It doesn't like to start until cooled down a bit. The check engine light has come on briefly but went out (no way to check it). 295k miles and other problems, lol.
Yeah easy for you when it's lifted. Mine's a double whammy. I have a 1993 ZJ with the original sensor somehow still and the bolts are totally seized up...
I read on a blog somewhere that someone has a kit to relocate the CPS to the harmonic balancer , and was wondering if you'd ever seen one. Also, I feel it's important to be aware that the gap between the pickup and flywheel is critical , so when removing and adjusting an old sensor requires some sort of paper or other spacer be present at the end of the sensor so it will be the correct gap when engine is started. To be honest , I'd rather see a relocation kit with a less picky sensor in a more accessible location :-)
No paper needed on this one, at least not on my 97 XJ, and i didn't see any of the one Martin did in this video. just did mine today. It was actually fairly easy, maybe due to my left kit. 5.5 inch TNTCUSTOMS long arm kit. I didn't need all of those extensions. I was able to reach up from under the jeep, and just use a 12 inch extension. Took about 30 minutes to get it out, and about the same to put the new one in. I would have had more room if I pulled the front Driveshaft, but didn't bother.
@@martinbuilt I replaced with an autozone sensor and then it wouldn't start at all! put in the old one started first try. I ordered a Mopar one and hopefully that works to fix my stalling issue.
Thank you, Ken. I appreciate that. Yeah, you just gotta love the vehicles that are from the Southwest, not a speck rust. I'm glad you found this video helpful.
I have a person that has a 1997 that says it need a new fuel pump because it cuts out at 2k rmps wind if it only needs the part you replaced? I want an in line 6 how many miles is to many to consider for purchase? Thanks for the videos. People think I'm crazy wanting an old jeep how do I buy wright and prove them wrong?
@@rlchick5774 test the fuel pump psi before replacing the pump, that is a big job and it is much easier to replace the CPS. If you live in the southwest they stay rust-free.
Nissan frontiera and exterra 3.3 or vg33e use ckp as a means of information for tachometer and misfire detection it does not control timing or any of that apparently
I have a very similar situation with my YJ however once it warms up it wil idle high and once I drive it and I pull in the the clutch the RPMs will hold at around 2300 and then idles again at around the same, I was told it was a vacuum leak and or a bad MAP sensor. Changed the map sensor couldn’t find any leaks, I’m almost certain it’s a bad CPS
@@martinbuilt got it. I already installed the new part, may have fixed it not sure yet, car stuck in garage with a broken door. If it’s not fixed I’ll give that a shot. Thanks
Is the same for 2001 xj? I read some people finished the entire job in 10 minutes watching this video. I am one hour in and yet to locate either end of the sensor from top or bottom.
@@martinbuilt In the mornings my 88 Comanche with the Peugeot would always be hard to shift. I forced it into 2nd and it stalled and never restarted. I changed the fuel filter and pump and that wasn't it. It will start, putt-putt for 30 sec or so and then die. My best guess is the CPS, would you agree?
Great job but kind of scary because I think you're missing a cover plate? Like if you had dropped the top bolt it looks like it would go straight into the bell housing of the transmission LOL. I'm fixing to change mine and I can tell that I do have the plate on mine so I'm glad to see it transmission
Yeah I've had to do this several times I believe the 1st time I did drop a bolt down in there so I had to remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bellhousing.
No stupid music track, no stupid attempts at humor, no big background intro about your life. Just straight up great demo. THANK YOU!
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful thank you for watching.
For all youtubers out there. this is what we need to see when we are looking for help.
thank you Sir, for this great video. Best I have seen so far.
So nice of you.
So clear and to the point I like every video
Good lighting clear instruction
Very knowledgeable
@@martinbuiltu got video on actuator or vent door stuck I recharge my a/c.
Helpful tip . If you're experiencing the bolts falling out of the socket when trying to install the new sensor , put a piece of paper towel or a piece of tape over the opening of the 11mm socket. This will snug up the bolt and keep it from falling out of the socket when trying to alien it . Works great for any bolt that's in a position to jst fall out or get lost in the engine compartment. Example, some bolts that hold down the distributor cap don't always stay with the cap when you're trying to unbolt the cap. The bolt will just fall into the
Netherworld of forever lost bolts . Use anything thin
paperlike that will snug up the bolt to stay in the socket.
As I'm preparing to do this job, you're advice sounds fantastically helpful. Glad I saw this comment, thank you.
I spent a week trying to figure this out. I live in mountain jungle of Chiapas Mexico and I am very lucky this failure did not happen in the middle of nowhere. It is the same symptom as a fuel pump failure and relay failure. Thanks you very, very much!!!
PS. I also spent hours looking for the right video, thanks again!
I'm glad you found this video and it helped you out. Yeah the crank Shaft position sensor code many times does not even show up. I carry a code reader with me all the time including many other other parts that could fail on the trail just in case.
@@martinbuilt Thanks again, by the way a cracked intake manifold hose made it even more difficult to detect the problem. I may have cracked it during my hose checking. I purposely use a 1995 4.0 engine system so I don't need a reader I do it by using the ignition key to get the computer codes.
@@rain4rusty Good to hear that you got it running again.👍
Thanks for the video, really helped me verify a problem "fingers crossed" and the extra long extension is key. I also took of my front drive shaft and it gave me some extra room!
the most simplest and easiest to watch video on CPS in the internet ! very inforamtive. keep going, cheers mate !
Wow, thanks, glad it helped.
I've been chasing the same problem for weeks on my 99. Replacing sensors after sensors that mechanics recommend. My XJ has never thrown a code. I'm definitely going to try this sensor next.
What was your problem with your xj?
Very helpful vid. My Jeep kept cutting out and as you say, "the tac went to zero". I originally thought it was a fuel line issue, but it cuts off INSTANTLY
Same thing, glad i fixed it
It's like watching a surgery with the camera view and the long extensions lol. Great informative video 👍
Thank you, glad you liked it.
Great video and well documented just might add to be VERY careful that neither of the bolts when loose happen to fall into the hole where the CPS fits, its easily done, some models have a plastic cover that prevents this. Sometimes its missing, mine was and before I realized I had one of the mounting bolts fall through the hole into the bell housing. Had to take the bottom access cover off and use a long magnet to retrieve it. Mechanics tip is to use petroleum jelly so it sticks in the socket especially when putting new one in. However once all connected started immediately, used similar long extension and a ratchet.
This literally happened to me today lol. Had to take the bottoms cover off as well and use a magnet stick to get it out. But good tip using the petroleum jelly👍🏼
Oh man, I wish I had seen this comment first. I just dropped mine in there and spent like 20 minutes looking around for it. I had no idea that hole was there.
Just replaced mine as you did along with your exact method. Was a SOB for me but got it lol. I went 4wheeling up to the top of Mt Siegel at 9500' elevation near Minden, NV and literally when I reached the top and stopped, the Jeep died. I couldn't believe it. Thankfully 10 minutes later it fired again and I went home and replaced it as I have two CPS's on hand. Thank you sir for your video and have subscribed.
Glad to hear it fired back up but that what those CPS will do. Thank you for subscribing, I appreciate that.
You're welcome.
Martin you have by far the best most informative videos out there thanks so much for all your help. I’ve used your videos for guidance for over a year now on my 97 XJ.
Thank you I really appreciate that I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Great video , my 16 year old daughter watched it with me so she can swap hers out on her XJ.
That's awesome Greg nice to hear she's willing to fix our own Jeep.
Thanks, u saved me so much time, heartache, & pain going down a road of parts..... I watched, bought extensions & part, from start to finish it took me 10 minutes. Great tutorial. Mine had the OG sensor, now at 243,000 miles.
This is the only video ive found on how to replace the CPS and shows you how to do it plus tips. your a good man, much appreciation of your work.
I appreciate that!
Phenomenal Video...now I know the REAL reason so many XJ owners lift their rides! lol Is even less room on a stock 96 XJ, lol But this vid truly helped me understand what I was doing that I could barely see! Props ! PS..... WARNING! Do NOT drop either of the bolts in the holein the bellhousing the sensor goes into!
Thank you . I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
First time changing my CPS took 15 minutes thanks to this video. awesome job with the details, this is one job I was dreading 😂
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.😊
How you got this done in 15 minutes is beyond me lol. Took me a good three hours 😮💨
I’m at hour 3 on the first bolt. Things fn welded on 🙃
Great Video. Just what I needed to gain some confidence in doing it myself. I’m a little older so getting in and out of those spaces are tough but this vid made it look relatively easy to do with a little patience. Thanks Buddy for great video….
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. I get the whole older thing I can't wait to get a 4 post and 2 posts lift installed in my new shop.
Thank you Martin... My Son and I have been fighting this issue for a while. We had other crazy codes that just confused us. Finally put in shop for diagnostic's they narrowed it down and only wanted 600 to do the job. Funny but not funny our poor boy shop wanted much less. Thanks again and have a blessed day. 8 -2-2023 Barry and Jeffrey "Colorado"
Best CPS video I seen and I been looking all day for a good one
Thank you, I appreciate that.
Hi Martin there is small plastic plate to cover the hole which is in front of the sensor . . I do have Jeep Cherokee and it has one for I already changed the sensor . It is great video you explained every think .
Ghassan
Martin as always thank you so much for your wealth of info. For the first time since owning it my wj left me stranded for a couple mins on my way home tonight... tach dropped and felt like misfiring, pulled over and restarted after a min and drove fine. p0320 code, guess its safe to say ill be doing this sensor tomorrow
Omg it looks so simple but im still stuck with one of them and its driving me crazy Thanks for the video
You can do it!
Cleanest xj undercarriage I’ve ever seen.
Thank you
I have done this on a 2000 XJ. Took a little longer than this video shows (mine isn't as clean), but process was the same a lot of extensions and wobble socket. I had a intermittent failure as described but did not get the code right away. dropped the bolts a couple of times but this is exactly how it works. I now also cay a crank and cam position sensor both in ba of essentials. Both of these things will kill your motor dead and no work around. Heer is my best pro tip. DO NOT buy the cheap knock off no matter how tempting. Pony up the $100 bucks and only do this job once !!!!!! Another tool for those that don't have lift kit. You will need a jack and good jack stands to fit under there. Thanks for all of the great content, really enjoy this chanel.
Just successfully replaced the CPS on my '99 Cherokee. I had about 1.5-2' of extension from the ratchet up. I used a piece of tape to hold onto the screws as I was threading them back in. Place the tape over the socket sticky side facing out and push the bolt into the socket. This should hold it well enough for you to get the thread started. I had to disconnect the front drive shaft to get my arm up in there, but I was very close to being able to do this job without removing it so probably will vary person to person. I have an OBD II bluetooth scanner tool which was giving me the code P1391. I actually had to turn the engine off with the ignition on to clear the code. I tried clearing the code a few times with the engine running and it wouldn't clear. Great video! Thank you!
That is one clean under carriage. Excellent video, keep up the great work
Thank you very much!
i had a local shop screw up mine. so next time i did mine. i located the location next to gas pedal right next to the carpeted hump next to the shifter, cut a small hole with a drill bit ,go under and located where bit came out. then using a large hole saw in a drill cut a larger hole,then using sheet metal snips made the hole bigger. now with a light you can see everything and even touch it with your hands. use sheet metal and screws to patch hole pull carpet back into place .mine is a 1988 cherokee this made life sooooo much better .jeep should have done this. also use a cardboard business card to space the sensor so it doesnt scape
You put the card on the flywheel??
Business card?
How did the local shop screw this up? I called one they told me 85$ to install the Mopar CPS I got from the Jeep dealership. But... I'm afraid they might drop a bolt in the bell housing or something stupid..
they ripped off the cover and threw it away bolts where not tight. like i said when i wrote my reply. i located where it was located next to the drive shaft hump next to the gas pedal .drilled a small hole after pulling carpet back then took a metal hole saw and cut a hole and then enlarged the hole and now i could see and put my hands on the sensor , put a sheet metal patch to cover hole then put carpet back in place. it was a 1988 jep cherokee that i bought new@@foxmulder7616
Hey, my name is mark watching your video. I'm all on Jeep grand Cherokee 2001. hundred and sixty thousand miles Cam sensor I think I replaced through place to camp. The crank sensor 320II guess that code came back up so I replaced the one on the top. I guess, but you're replacing the crank sensor thank you.❤
Yeah, 320 code can be either be a crank shaft or a cam shaft position sensor issue.
Great video on a part which can cause such problems. I dropped one of the bolts in the bell housing and then to top it off the part I got from a well known company had a different plug on it and couldn’t work. Only a genuine Mopar part will be the best option.
Thank you, yes they changed the connector in 97. Mopar parts are the best, I've replaced the CPS 3 or 4 times, the Autozone ones are juke.
@@martinbuilt it was from A-1 but I do have a 97
Im impressed at how easy you made that look. I dont have anywhere near that amount of room down there!
Also, it's worth every penny to go with an oem part. About $140ish from the dealer, $80ish from rock auto.
@@dansears9204 nice! I hope I never have to buy another one again lol
Agreed! Spend the extra money to get the OEM sensor.
I agree with Rubin. This is by far the best discription and instructional video Ive seen. Great job. I subscribed and thumbed up
Thank you I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Thank you for watching. 😊👍
Just did my 2002 TJ 4.0 Manual Transmission. The connection for my crankshaft position sensor is on the passenger side of the vehicle down near the oil pressure sensor.
After I completed the job I wondered if I had jacked up the frame slightly and put jackstands under the frame rails (NOT the axles), if that would give me a little more clearance on top of the transmission.
Additionally, there is a rubber boot that is supposed to surround the sensor. It was missing on my 275,000 mile vehicle, but I’m going to order and install it within the next week or so. I think contamination from the open hole probably shortened the life of the sensor I replaced.
Also, I used an NGK/NTK sensor which is the only other brand, other than Mopar, that I’ll use. Time will tell!
I am having a very similar problem with my 97 tj and from this video I found the wire cover leading to the cps had been resting against the block and had melted to the wire. It is only short circuiting when it's very hot outside. This probably solved my problem.
You are the first car tutorial channel I´ve ever subscribed to -- very impressed with your clarity, explanation and videography; thank you!!
My man! This video was awesome. Ive never commented on a video before but I had to show you my appreciation. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is the cleanest Cherokee I have ever seen man hope mine can look like this one day
Thank you I'm glad you liked it. I've owned it now for over 12 years.
Has absolutely no rust you just got a love Southern Nevada.
Wow, you made that look too easy. Nice rust free XJ. I like to shocks to hold your hood up too.
Thank you. No rust here in southern Nevada. That makes it a lot easier to work on these vehicles. The hood shocks were one of the only things that the previous owner had installed that I really liked.
i read some of the comments i also taught it was a fuel issue im gonna do that in my 92 jeep cherokee thanks good video not one of those mambo jajambo shit from el paso texas thanks
I'm glad you liked it. Hope this fixes your issue. Thank you for watching.
Just hope that's all the problem was with my cherokee this morning . good video , very helpful
Good luck!
The new crank sensor worked ! So nice to have these videos to give amateur mechanics like me help and guidance .
I like the way you cut thru all the bull crap with your videos .sure makes that" pain in the ass job of cps replacement" a bit easier to understand. Thanks
Big help…thanks. Idle was surging from 600 to 1100. Bolts on my ‘97 wrangler 4.0 were 7/16 instead of 11mm. Was able to break loose top bolt from above with box end wrench.
I was skeptical that this would fix my jeep but it did ! Back on the road again definitely recommend trying this sensor before any other major repair , part is about 40$
Glad it worked out for you, Yeah this sensor can cause lots of problems and make you think other things are wrong with your Jeep especially if you're not getting any codes .
@@martinbuilt yeah my 98 gc no codes idling rough like low rpms at idle 200 to 600,kinda sounds like tractor. Stalled couple times,seems run better at 4000rpm.hard to start as well. Changed plugs,tested fuel pressure 50psi running. 45psi off & holds. Will try CPS Monday
@@calvingoodswimmer2944did it work i got a 2000 that's been shutting off no engine light but gave me crankshaft code when i had a feeling and did the ol turn 3 times ghetto code scanner trick ty mopar
thank you.. great video.. helped so much.. had same problem with 97 cherokee i just bought for my daughter with 101k actual miles on it.. this video made it really simple to change! great great camera work also!!!
Great to hear, I'm sure your daughter will enjoy it. 😎
Hey how did you know when to change it ?
Grateful for the insight. Though I did get the garage to change the CPS. First problem I have had with my 4L petrol 2002, as I only drive it sparingly here in London (but carry bricks, cement and stuff!) It's only done 67000. It stopped 5x the last 28 miles, started up again each time after a few attempts. Hope it will see me through now on my (83+) last run without having to get anything new. Battered, but best car I have had!
Those 4.0 engines will run for ever.😎
@@martinbuilt Unfortunately, the replacement of the CPS did not change the situation. The car occasionally, and not long after starting, just dies out (though it has run in between incidents for 30 miles or so without doing it at all) , it has happened at least 6+ times in the last 100 miles. I can also feel "voids" when I drive it. Often it just requires two turns of the ignition to get going again but on two occasion it required multiple attempts, I thought I was draining the battery! then the engine revs roar ahead only to drop and die down quickly unless you catch them mid stream and sustain the middle level, and then it settles down within a couple of minutes. It will then run for miles and miles without any problem. I thought it might be a fuel contamination and thought that the petrol filter was under the bonnet but the garage tells me in this 2002 model, its in the tank, so I will take it in again and get them to drain it and see if this is the problem There were instances here in North London of contaminated petrol and "Morrison" one of the supermarkets had to compensate a number of drivers but "Tesco" where I got mine just before the problem started denied they had any such problem. The garage excluded it might be the coil, but then what do I know?
That is the cleanest old Jeep I have ever seen.
Good video.
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Nice, im doing this right now on my 1999 XJ
I have the same year as you. Let's keep in touch, Looking for other Jeep friends.
Thank you Martin and wow finally no more searching for a needle in a hay stack. Great video. My jeep is a 1998 and I cherish it. That was the code I had and exactly what you said was happening to me .
Cheers
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Thanks!!!! update your affiliate links so I can support !
Thank you for watching. I checked out the links I see that the Mopar one is currently unavailable but even though it is unavailable all because you went through my link using that pathway I still get credit for anything you purchase from Amazon. Thank you for your support I really appreciate it.😎👍
Excellent how-to!
Exactly what I need to know, no extraneous BS.
How well does that 'cabin air intake' work for ya...never seen that before!
I'd bet it's better than one of those snorkels, but not as showy.
EDIT: Just saw your video on that intake...I originally thought you were actually pulling air from INSIDE the cabin.
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.. Yeah if you were to pull air from inside the cabin you'd be surprised how loud that would be.
Wow great video. You were serious about having long extensions to get this done.
Most definitely, thank you for watching!
Thanks for the video man, I believe this is my problem also.
It most likely is good luck with that.
Ooh hermano, realmente me ha ayudado bastante tu video, no sé si entiendas el español pero te agradezco por explicar donde se encuentra el sensor y como reemplazarlo. Muchas gracias.
Thanks, pal. Really helped me out
I'm glad you liked it. Thank you for watching.
Best video I've seen yet. Fine job. Thanks for doing it. My jeep should be back on the road quick now
Thank you, Glad it helped
hello again .. will have a video explaining the full time light is activated when in reality it is not activated .. it does not size the tire that is why
I’m about to see if this was the problem for mine. I will be back later 👋🏾
Omg bro. Thank you soo much. I changed out the ignition also and found the problem from this video.
Does anyone know where I can get a extra bolt I can’t seem to find the exact one
If it was there before you started it is most likely falling down inside the bellhousing remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing to retrieve it.
@@martinbuilt yep fell right in there, and now I got it thanks !
Dude! Thanks for this video! My boy's just went out.
Glad I could help!
Awesome !! , I have the same issue, your explanation has been the best to try to figure out!
I tried replacing mine with a cheaper aftermarket one and it would barely run.I replaced that one with an oem Mopar one and it ran fine.Now I don't even waste money on cheap sensors,I just get the Mopar brand....
Yeah if it's a vehicle you're planning on keeping Mopar are definitely this way to go.
love watching how easy that was large tires and lifted help im shure replaced a few nice video.
Thank you, yeah, the big tires and lift do help when it comes to working on the underside of the Jeep but not so much when working under the hood. Then it's time to grab the step stool.
What were the engineers thinking at Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep when they came up with this one?
that's the thing, they didn't.
THEY HAD PROBABLY RAN OUT OF SPACE 🤣
One possible reason is that it is well protected in that location. If a common cause of failure is flying rocks etc. then it at least makes some sense.
Excellent vehicle I'm going to do just the same thank you for that I have the same Jeep
Thank you, Corey!
Perfect sir thanks so much
Most welcome
what do you think about bloking the bell housing hole with a rag or something to avoid possible loss of the bolt down the opening? Just fearful of my future attempt!
I lost both that way so I’d say use one
@@LVYTHN I just dropped a bolt in that hole. What did you do about it?
@@Hoonozit was it the hole without the cover on top?
A failing CPS is also a commonly overlooked cause for a random misfire, just the code (P0300) and an actual felt misfire/rough idle.
yeah the CPS can cause random misfire.
I had a random misfire on 2000 xj a few years ago. The cps was the last part I tired and it worked. Fast forward to a few days ago, now my 2001 xj has misfire on #3. My dumbass jumps straight to the cps. No dice. So I do plugs and coil rail. Still no worky. I see on interwebs to swap injectors. Sure enough, misfire followed the injector to #1. I pull it and look again and found a giant crack right down the side of the guilty injector.
Note to self: start with the easy stuff first. The worst part is I already knew that!
Super helpful video! Best one I've seen for replacing the CPS. Thank you!
Great to hear, thank you!
Good video - useful comment: remove the upper CPS-screw firstly so it cannot fall into the bell housing ! And: CPS from Mopar/OEM only...
Thanks for the info!
@@martinbuilt you generally make a good channel with a lot of helpful content - go on !
Great vid my 01 XJ sensor plug didn’t disconnect at the same location. Mine was don’t further closer to the end of the trans and tcase. Wonder if mines wrong
that seems odd that it would be down there.
That’s where it is located in the newer xjs, mine is also down there
Thanks for the video.
For 1991 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4 and 4 doors, which one is the Mopar sensor o equivalente?
Thanks you
God BLESS YOU
Hi there , can you cut a little hatch on the side of the bell and have an access port there as on the WJ's to reach the sensor easily if on the road or just to make it easier to do the repairs? The sensor was totally diff on my 2002 WJ 4l straight with a single bolt holding it .
Another commenter did that he said.
Excellent 👍
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. 😁
@@martinbuilt you're welcome I'm sitting in one now that going a little haywire that might be part of the problem along with the injectors it actually maybe you can advise me it runs great when it's all warmed up but takes a while for it to warm up if you just start it and drive off it goes haywire
thank you! just earned yourself a new subscriber
Awesome, thank you!
I'm having an issue where when warm my oil pressure goes to about zero at a stop or idle, the red check gauges light comes on, and the motor dies. It doesn't like to start until cooled down a bit. The check engine light has come on briefly but went out (no way to check it). 295k miles and other problems, lol.
Yeah easy for you when it's lifted. Mine's a double whammy. I have a 1993 ZJ with the original sensor somehow still and the bolts are totally seized up...
I read on a blog somewhere that someone has a kit to relocate the CPS to the harmonic balancer , and was wondering if you'd ever seen one. Also, I feel it's important to be aware that the gap between the pickup and flywheel is critical , so when removing and adjusting an old sensor requires some sort of paper or other spacer be present at the end of the sensor so it will be the correct gap when engine is started. To be honest , I'd rather see a relocation kit with a less picky sensor in a more accessible location :-)
No paper needed on this one, at least not on my 97 XJ, and i didn't see any of the one Martin did in this video. just did mine today. It was actually fairly easy, maybe due to my left kit. 5.5 inch TNTCUSTOMS long arm kit. I didn't need all of those extensions. I was able to reach up from under the jeep, and just use a 12 inch extension. Took about 30 minutes to get it out, and about the same to put the new one in. I would have had more room if I pulled the front Driveshaft, but didn't bother.
Thank you for the information
You are very welcome. I'm glad you liked it and founded helpful thank you for watching.
Well done video. Simple and to the point
Thank you 😊
Great video, I'm having the same problem but not throwing a code.
Thank you. Yeah it takes for ever for that code to show up.
Good video most people leave stuff and you didn’t thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video answers all my questions. Thank you
You made it look easy but I’m sure I’ll have fun reaching those bolts. Lol
Yeah that's the magic of editing and I've done it several times.
@@martinbuilt I made it happen. It honestly wasn’t too bad. Thanks for the video, bro.
@@imoutofideasfornames Good job, glad to hear it all worked out.
Awesome video, hoping this will fix my stalling problem!
Glad you liked it, hope it works out. 👍
@@martinbuilt I replaced with an autozone sensor and then it wouldn't start at all! put in the old one started first try. I ordered a Mopar one and hopefully that works to fix my stalling issue.
Quality tutorial! Much appreciated and that is one clean XJ underbelly!!!!
Thank you, Ken. I appreciate that. Yeah, you just gotta love the vehicles that are from the Southwest, not a speck rust. I'm glad you found this video helpful.
Later XJ have connections to left of bell housing facing forward....don't go looking up top😎
All the info I need. Very understandable, thanks a bunch man! You got me subscribed
Glad you liked it and found it helpful, thank you for subscribing I appreciate that.
I have a person that has a 1997 that says it need a new fuel pump because it cuts out at 2k rmps wind if it only needs the part you replaced? I want an in line 6 how many miles is to many to consider for purchase? Thanks for the videos. People think I'm crazy wanting an old jeep how do I buy wright and prove them wrong?
Also how do you keep your jeep so rust free?
@@rlchick5774 test the fuel pump psi before replacing the pump, that is a big job and it is much easier to replace the CPS.
If you live in the southwest they stay rust-free.
Having trouble with my 90 xj . After watching this vid I think this might be the problem. I'll let you know later.
Good luck, and thanks for watching
Bastante util el video, gracias desde Venezuela
You are very welcome and thank you for watching.
Thank you. Great no bullshit tutorial.
Nissan frontiera and exterra 3.3 or vg33e use ckp as a means of information for tachometer and misfire detection it does not control timing or any of that apparently
keep rockin Martin!
oh I will, thanks Kirk
Great video mate. Thanks 🙏
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Great I need change in Jeep Grand Cherokee 2003 please
I have a very similar situation with my YJ however once it warms up it wil idle high and once I drive it and I pull in the the clutch the RPMs will hold at around 2300 and then idles again at around the same, I was told it was a vacuum leak and or a bad MAP sensor. Changed the map sensor couldn’t find any leaks, I’m almost certain it’s a bad CPS
I would clean your idle air control valve and the throttle body where the idle air control valve mounts to.
Or your IAC valve may need to be replaced.
@@martinbuilt got it. I already installed the new part, may have fixed it not sure yet, car stuck in garage with a broken door. If it’s not fixed I’ll give that a shot. Thanks
Great video
Is the same for 2001 xj? I read some people finished the entire job in 10 minutes watching this video. I am one hour in and yet to locate either end of the sensor from top or bottom.
Thank you very much
You are very welcome. I'm glad you found it helpful.
great video, well lit, clear and very little excess noise.
Glad you liked it!
Love that you don't play music in your videos
@@martinbuilt
In the mornings my 88 Comanche with the Peugeot would always be hard to shift. I forced it into 2nd and it stalled and never restarted. I changed the fuel filter and pump and that wasn't it.
It will start, putt-putt for 30 sec or so and then die.
My best guess is the CPS, would you agree?
Great job but kind of scary because I think you're missing a cover plate? Like if you had dropped the top bolt it looks like it would go straight into the bell housing of the transmission LOL. I'm fixing to change mine and I can tell that I do have the plate on mine so I'm glad to see it transmission
Yeah I've had to do this several times I believe the 1st time I did drop a bolt down in there so I had to remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bellhousing.
@@martinbuilt Did you find the lost bolt ?