Thanks for watching! I've now created a drop-in crossover and have it for sale here: www.ebay.com/itm/387271394170 As time allows, I will also make a kit with all of the parts that will be cheaper.
Did the Zilch mod to my pair of Optimus 7 speakers i boughtnew in the early 90s. Same drivers and crap Xover as the Minimus 7 with the addition of a port on the back to add in that wonderful "chuffing" sound no one needs! Stuffed it with dacron fibre and problem solved. The Zilch mod is so worth the effort and the difference is night and day! Magical combo, drive them with a NAD 3020. A couple of notes. Use Kester 63/37 solder with the 44 rosin core. It does not cause corrosion and is still the best solder ever! I know this because I have been soldering for 50 plus years now. I assembled my cross over in a tight compact cluster with all components epoxied together to minimize the volume reduction of the enclosure and make mounting easier. I hot glued the crossover to the enclosure inside between the woofer and tweeter to make it easy to wire. Still using the stock spring terminals right now but working on something different using Wago blocks instead.
Nice! Yea those ports can be so annoying if they weren't designed right. I use Kester 60/40 right now but when I run out I plan to pick up the 63/37. I've heard so many good things about it so thank you for adding to the pile haha.
Working on Min 7's is like therapy for non-bench guys. I did the Zilch and used zip ties and wire connectors. Maybe some black tape. Not good at soldering..but I'm going to try to clean up my next crossover. I just lined it with Dynamat too. Sound is a bit more solid. Every little thing you can do to these helps. You did a wonderful job on the board from start to finish. I also hope to make over my Min 77's and 3.5's.
HAha yes! They're so fun to tinker with and very low pressure. I read about someone making a small line array out of 24 of them and I kinda want to try that eventually haha. The Dynamat is a good idea! I'm glad you liked the board! I'm working on a new iteration that's even cleaner to sell as a drop in replacement for the old Xover. Pretty stoked about it. Thanks for watching!
I did this project three years ago. I ended up cutting a piece of hardboard the size of the bottom of the cabinet. Built the crossover on that and hot glued it inside.
G' day Matt, Just came across your channel mate & of course subscribed, Very good tutorial & style in your vids, Great explanation on A vs B as I first thought B was better as it sounds louder, Then after your comments, A sonically was so much superior, look forward 2 when U make the kit with all of the parts that will be cheaper. Cheers!
I worked at Radio Shack in high school. I bought these when they'd go on sale once a year. Still have them. They're great, although in honesty, I really prefer the Minimus 11 speakers and Boston Acoustic HD5 speakers I bought in the 1990s.
Very nice. I happened to modify a pair also. I accidentally blew one of the bass drivers and they sat for a year and I figured why not. Replaced the woofer with a better one with a longer throw and a smaller but powerful neodymium magnet. MKP Metalized Polypropylene Foil Crossover Capacitors from Audyn(Germany) and Jantzen Cross Caps from Denmark pus 16g polyethylene coated wire, etc. I ordered quality air core inductors but the ones there already were good enough. And of course good, not great binding posts. We are talking about Minimus 7s. Amazing midrange and highs with much better power handling. I tried putting a couple of photos up but my reply kept being taken down.
Are you using the original woofers? I have a pair of Optimus Pro 77 and having a hard time finding 5” replacement speakers that will fit into the existing cutout and align with mounting holes.
I can tell you, even over RUclips (I'm listening with usb output to a Cambridge Audio StreamMagic through Cambridge Azur AVR and home-built full-range transmission-line speakers) your modded speakers sound INFINITELY better than the standard 😀
They sure were haha. Yea! Silk domes. The tweeters sound great. I really like the way these sound after the crossover mod. Perfect for a small room with a sub. Thanks for watching!
I bought a pair off eBay and hooked them up yesterday. They're okay. The bass is almost non-existent, so I'll be pairing them up with a subwoofer. I currently own: JBL Stage A120, Jamo S 803, Sony SSCS5, Dayton B652 Air, & Fostex P800E. Out of all these bookshelf speakers, the Jamo sound the best out of the box. I gave the pair to my son and ended up purchasing another. Might try the smaller Jamo S 801 at some point. Jamo are hard to beat, especially if you can buy a pair 2nd hand. Thanks for sharing!
Good to know about the Jamo speakers! I'll have to check them out. You're right about the bass on these M7s. They definitely need a sub with them. Thanks for watching!
@MattDealy I bought 2 active, slim subwoofers this weekend. Dayton Audio 100 Watts and Theater Solutions 250 watts. They both add much needed bass! Check them out.
Hi Matt nice job! Have you considered an external crossover for ease? There may even be some benefit from getting it away from internal vibration. Cheers!
Thank you! I have thought about it as it would free up some internal volume which could help with bass a little. It would require a bit more planning and prep and would leave the speakers more easily damaged. Would be a fun little project though...Thanks for watching!
I did not glue the parts on this version because they are held in place by the leads going through the hard board. They're relatively small and they never rattled because the hard board is textured and soft enough. You are right though, it's usually a good idea to glue the components down and I'd probably glue them for good measure if I make more xovers using this schematic. Thanks for watching!
The hardest part about showing speaker upgrades is recording. It's why on my tests I try to get closer to the speakers, to negate room reflections, this is even more important when dealing with smaller speakers as their dispersion is so much wider room effects leak into the typical phone and recorder omnidirectional microphones. The best way to get a good representation of the sound would be to go old school and use a dynamic microphone placed close to the speaker, you gotta experiment with positioning between woofer and tweeter to get a realistic phase alignment depending on crossover design and driver placement.
Ahhh! This is such a great tip! I will try using a mic closer to the speakers in future comparisons! It would be fun to run two mics in mono and get a stereo sound so that you could listen to it on RUclips with earbuds or headphones and get the stereo image. Thanks for watching!
Hi Matt. I watch your video and would like to know how you removed the grills. That part of your video was too fast so I couldn't make out how you did it. I have a pair of those white speakers and one of them is a little dented. I want to fix it but I don't know how to remove the grill. Please let me know how. Also, I have another pair but with the wooden baffle with cloth grill. Do you know how to remove those grills? I can't find any video on how it is done. The reason I want to remove the grill is because one of them seem to have a defective woofer or twitter. I want to check which one is defective. Please let me know when you get the chance. Thanks.
Thanks for tuning in! Sorry that the video was so fast in that part. I used a pair of fine curved tweezers. I stick the end of them (or a small screwdriver or toothpick or something) into one of the holes on the side of the grill then lift it up. The grills are only held in place with some blue tak sort of goo and should lift easily on one corner with that trick, then you can lift the rest by hand. I hope that helps! -Matt
The grill is held in by 4 glue blobs/strips near corners. I used a knife blade through one of the tiny holes near a corner in the grill to lever up one corner, then another corner. That gets one side up, and you can just use your hands to lift the grill out. It's fiddley, but not too bad. If you are lucky, you can use the same glue strips to hold it in when you are done. Otherside a bead of hot glue might serve?
5:46 Vintage audio tech with 47 years experience here. I saw this video months ago, but just now noticed that you "don't use solder with flux in it." How do you get it to stick? And why would you do such a thing? What's wrong with rosin-core solder? (Remember, you're arguing with literally EVERYONE who has ever soldered an electrical connection.)
I use flux free solder because it helps keep the phase alignment of my prognosticator and transmogrifier at a perfect 180°...Just kidding, I have no idea why I said that in the video haha. I must have been very tired that day. I will add a card to that time stamp to clarify. I use Kester 60/40 rosin core solder. You're always finding my mistakes and helping to educate the people and me, Scott. I appreciate it!
I bought the original pairs in 1980 for my dorm room, and still have them after 40 plus years. Coupled with the legendary NAD 3020, these speakers will blow you away. Everyone in the dorm were amazed. I have hooked them up to lesser electronics, and their shine disappears. So don't believe the notion that they don't have any bass. A few years ago, I hooked them again and found the highs to be harsh. Swapped the electrolytic cap and still sounded harsh. Don't know if my ears changed or that I no longer have the NAD 3020 run them.
@@Shuksanaudio I sold the 3020 to a friend of mine back in the early 90's, and he still has it. Traded it with him for his microwave. Grrrrr... But he doesn't want to sell. Good thing is I still have the microwave and use it everyday. The 3020 on Ebay are way overpriced now.
Oh man! That's wild. Glad that the microwave is still working haha. They don't seem overpriced to me at 200-300 for a solid amp with shipping. But maybe I'm just used to different receivers. I'd love to try a Nad 3020 someday. @@lwh7301
@@Shuksanaudio I paid $199 for the 3020 brand new in 1980, so I find it hard to believe that they are going for $300 these days. And they tend to be beat up, having gone through many hands. I had to replace a large capacitor ($5) in the microwave once, but it's been great. It's a Panasonic, made in Japan.
Hi there I’m in the process of getting some m7’s and still have a 3020…I’ll let a comment about how they work out. FYI I was thinking of using a Fosi v3 in my bedroom with them as it has a rather polite top end…if you’re looking for something “economical” to try with yours.
Most of my speakers I run them what I call full range and I just use caps on the tweeter for protection the woofer Runs in full range so it has more midrange plus bas , to me it works very well and sounds awesome except for my EV 12 TRXB it has its own crossover built into the speaker , most full range speakers don't need a crossover . My coolest Speaker is a ALTEC University Mustang it does not require a crossover I let them run in full range in a pair of Aristocrat enclosures crafted bye Paul Klipsch , I built mine from plans from Electrovoice , and the enclosure is built to run in the corners of a room they really do enhance the sound that comes out of them just like being in a theater , The Aristocrat can give any speaker a increase of 10 Watts . I am The Speaker Doctor I have bin building speakers since high school , to me Electrovoice is one of the best theater speakers made and for live performances plus they make awesome guitar speakers . sorry i love to gab about my speaker builds .
Nice! Yes, some woofers work fine without a low pass filter which is how a lot of lower end vintage speakers were run with nothing on the woofer. It keeps the damping factor of the speaker lower for older amps with low damping factors such as tube amps and early solid state. I used to have a set of the 15" Electrovoice wolverine full range speakers and they sounded pretyy solid in an open baffle setup. Sounds like you've been doing this a long time! I love to hear about peoples builds! Thanks for sharing and watching my video!
Thanks for stopping in. I am working on a simpler crossover design that is more drop in but I could also drop it into your walnut pair if you wanted to mail them. It would just cost a bit extra. Shoot me an email if you're serious about this and we can chat more. It might be a couple of months before I can get to them. Shuksanaudio@gmail.com
I had a white pair that were apparent speakers that I repurposed for my game room’s rear surround system. I have hearing damage but I like @B” better. Yes, it is more shrill but that’s why you don’t buy speakers sign unheard.
Nice! These make great surrounds. I think audio is great because different people prefer different things. It allows us to build a system that we like for our tastes which feels more personal. Thanks for chiming in! -Matt
Thanks James! I’m scheming up a new crossover design and trying to keep it cheap ish. I think a pair of them would cost around $80-90 with shipping. Is that something you’d be interested in?
Totally! That extra bit of brightness does keep them sounding more alive at lower volumes. Its ear piercing once you turn it up haha. Thanks for chiming in ❤️ -Matt
I just bought a pair from an antique/thrift store for $20! They are in excellent shape and will just require a quick sand and new finish. I was going to build this crossover, but let me know what you are going to sell them for and I may just get them through you!
Amazing! that's a great deal for the wooden ones! I'll be working on the crossover kit soon, shoot me an email if you're interested and I'll let you know when I have them ready Shuksanaudio@gmail.com @@randysaylor700
Try taking a stock minimus seven and simply reversing the tweeter leads. The tweeters were intentionally wired out-of-phase to make the speaker seem to have more bass. This mod costs nothing and is reversible.
Thanks for the tip, Scott! I’ve heard of this mod but haven’t tested it myself. What improvements did you notice? Does it flatten out the tweeter level? Coming in with the great tips as always 🙏
@@Shuksanaudio It makes the midrange much less phasey and more - if you'll pardon the pun - realistic. It's just more musical, especially with strings and vocals.
Haha 😂 They definitely sound a lot better in person but still lack any low end and do give a very shouty/phone sounding experience if used without a sub. Thanks for watching :)
They are tiny, and cheap. The tweeter is excellent, and the 4 inch woofer is adequate to maybe 100Hz. If you want decent bass, you must add a subwoofer. This post is about improving speakers we already have, so a lot of people are interested in doing that. You can't buy these new, but they are very common in thrift stores or on FB Marketplace for $20 and up. Of course these won't rival the sound of huge expensive speakers, but that's not their purpose. They work great if you need a tiny, cheap speaker, say on a desktop or even bedside.
To clarify for people that may not understand what Arthur is referring to and to state less of an opinion and more facts. There are some people who would prefer to have their speakers cover the full frequency range rather than have a separate sub. Using a sub with speakers is often times a much cheaper and smaller solution to filling in the low end than having large speakers. It's also true that almost all speakers don't have good bass response below 40hz and a sub can help fill in that gap. Some people just prefer to not use subs. To get even more nerdy, the wave of a bass freqeuncy is very long, which means it's very hard or impossible for your brain to tell where the frequencies are coming from, which means that you can place a single sub near your speakers and you won't be able to tell that the bass is only coming from one corner or the other the same way that you would if it were producing higher frequencies. I disagree that using a sub defeats the purpose of speakers. They both serve a purpose and can save a lot of money and space. @@ArthurJS123
Thanks for watching! I've now created a drop-in crossover and have it for sale here: www.ebay.com/itm/387271394170
As time allows, I will also make a kit with all of the parts that will be cheaper.
Did the Zilch mod to my pair of Optimus 7 speakers i boughtnew in the early 90s. Same drivers and crap Xover as the Minimus 7 with the addition of a port on the back to add in that wonderful "chuffing" sound no one needs! Stuffed it with dacron fibre and problem solved. The Zilch mod is so worth the effort and the difference is night and day! Magical combo, drive them with a NAD 3020.
A couple of notes. Use Kester 63/37 solder with the 44 rosin core. It does not cause corrosion and is still the best solder ever! I know this because I have been soldering for 50 plus years now. I assembled my cross over in a tight compact cluster with all components epoxied together to minimize the volume reduction of the enclosure and make mounting easier. I hot glued the crossover to the enclosure inside between the woofer and tweeter to make it easy to wire. Still using the stock spring terminals right now but working on something different using Wago blocks instead.
Nice! Yea those ports can be so annoying if they weren't designed right. I use Kester 60/40 right now but when I run out I plan to pick up the 63/37. I've heard so many good things about it so thank you for adding to the pile haha.
Working on Min 7's is like therapy for non-bench guys. I did the Zilch and used zip ties and wire connectors. Maybe some black tape. Not good at soldering..but I'm going to try to clean up my next crossover. I just lined it with Dynamat too. Sound is a bit more solid. Every little thing you can do to these helps. You did a wonderful job on the board from start to finish. I also hope to make over my Min 77's and 3.5's.
HAha yes! They're so fun to tinker with and very low pressure. I read about someone making a small line array out of 24 of them and I kinda want to try that eventually haha. The Dynamat is a good idea!
I'm glad you liked the board! I'm working on a new iteration that's even cleaner to sell as a drop in replacement for the old Xover. Pretty stoked about it. Thanks for watching!
wow. the difference is drastic. the before sounds downright abrasive. i've got to dig up my old silver's and get to work!
Yes indeed! The difference is huuuge! Thanks for watching :)
I did this project three years ago. I ended up cutting a piece of hardboard the size of the bottom of the cabinet. Built the crossover on that and hot glued it inside.
Amazing! Hardboard works really well.
G' day Matt, Just came across your channel mate & of course subscribed, Very good tutorial & style in your vids, Great explanation on A vs B as I first thought B was better as it sounds louder, Then after your comments, A sonically was so much superior, look forward 2 when U make the kit with all of the parts that will be cheaper. Cheers!
Thank you so much for watching! I'm glad that it was enjoyable for you! I will make the parts kit in the coming months!
I worked at Radio Shack in high school. I bought these when they'd go on sale once a year. Still have them. They're great, although in honesty, I really prefer the Minimus 11 speakers and Boston Acoustic HD5 speakers I bought in the 1990s.
Nice! There's definitely better speakers out there that are similar size. Thanks for watching!
Very nice. I happened to modify a pair also. I accidentally blew one of the bass drivers and they sat for a year and I figured why not. Replaced the woofer with a better one with a longer throw and a smaller but powerful neodymium magnet. MKP Metalized Polypropylene Foil Crossover Capacitors from Audyn(Germany) and Jantzen Cross Caps from Denmark pus 16g polyethylene coated wire, etc. I ordered quality air core inductors but the ones there already were good enough. And of course good, not great binding posts. We are talking about Minimus 7s. Amazing midrange and highs with much better power handling. I tried putting a couple of photos up but my reply kept being taken down.
Wow! That's quite a set of upgrades. I bet they sound awesome. Thanks for sharing. -Matt
Are you using the original woofers? I have a pair of Optimus Pro 77 and having a hard time finding 5” replacement speakers that will fit into the existing cutout and align with mounting holes.
I am indeed. There are a few options for upgrading the woofers that I have seen online but I've never gone that route.
I loved these speakers growing up. These were out in the early 80s.
Yea! They have quite a cult following. I love the way they sound for their size! Thanks for watching :)
I can tell you, even over RUclips (I'm listening with usb output to a Cambridge Audio StreamMagic through Cambridge Azur AVR and home-built full-range transmission-line speakers) your modded speakers sound INFINITELY better than the standard 😀
I'm glad you can hear the difference! It is quite drastic. Much smoother. Thanks for watching!
I can hear the difference quite clearly through my Dell laptop and cheapoid Koss DynaPro headphones!
Great video!
These are excellent near field speakers. I have them beside my monitor and the bass is good.
Agreed! They work wonderfully for near field. Thanks for watching!
Those were cute little buggers, and genuinely good tweeters. Are they silk domes?
They sure were haha. Yea! Silk domes. The tweeters sound great. I really like the way these sound after the crossover mod. Perfect for a small room with a sub. Thanks for watching!
I bought a pair off eBay and hooked them up yesterday. They're okay. The bass is almost non-existent, so I'll be pairing them up with a subwoofer. I currently own: JBL Stage A120, Jamo S 803, Sony SSCS5, Dayton B652 Air, & Fostex P800E. Out of all these bookshelf speakers, the Jamo sound the best out of the box. I gave the pair to my son and ended up purchasing another. Might try the smaller Jamo S 801 at some point. Jamo are hard to beat, especially if you can buy a pair 2nd hand. Thanks for sharing!
Good to know about the Jamo speakers! I'll have to check them out. You're right about the bass on these M7s. They definitely need a sub with them. Thanks for watching!
@MattDealy I bought 2 active, slim subwoofers this weekend. Dayton Audio 100 Watts and Theater Solutions 250 watts. They both add much needed bass! Check them out.
Hi Matt nice job! Have you considered an external crossover for ease? There may even be some benefit from getting it away from internal vibration. Cheers!
Thank you! I have thought about it as it would free up some internal volume which could help with bass a little. It would require a bit more planning and prep and would leave the speakers more easily damaged. Would be a fun little project though...Thanks for watching!
Bid you glue the parts down also? They will always vibrate if only solder in.
I did not glue the parts on this version because they are held in place by the leads going through the hard board. They're relatively small and they never rattled because the hard board is textured and soft enough. You are right though, it's usually a good idea to glue the components down and I'd probably glue them for good measure if I make more xovers using this schematic. Thanks for watching!
The hardest part about showing speaker upgrades is recording. It's why on my tests I try to get closer to the speakers, to negate room reflections, this is even more important when dealing with smaller speakers as their dispersion is so much wider room effects leak into the typical phone and recorder omnidirectional microphones.
The best way to get a good representation of the sound would be to go old school and use a dynamic microphone placed close to the speaker, you gotta experiment with positioning between woofer and tweeter to get a realistic phase alignment depending on crossover design and driver placement.
Ahhh! This is such a great tip! I will try using a mic closer to the speakers in future comparisons! It would be fun to run two mics in mono and get a stereo sound so that you could listen to it on RUclips with earbuds or headphones and get the stereo image. Thanks for watching!
Hi Matt. I watch your video and would like to know how you removed the grills. That part of your video was too fast so I couldn't make out how you did it. I have a pair of those white speakers and one of them is a little dented. I want to fix it but I don't know how to remove the grill. Please let me know how.
Also, I have another pair but with the wooden baffle with cloth grill. Do you know how to remove those grills? I can't find any video on how it is done. The reason I want to remove the grill is because one of them seem to have a defective woofer or twitter. I want to check which one is defective. Please let me know when you get the chance. Thanks.
Thanks for tuning in! Sorry that the video was so fast in that part. I used a pair of fine curved tweezers. I stick the end of them (or a small screwdriver or toothpick or something) into one of the holes on the side of the grill then lift it up. The grills are only held in place with some blue tak sort of goo and should lift easily on one corner with that trick, then you can lift the rest by hand.
I hope that helps! -Matt
The grill is held in by 4 glue blobs/strips near corners. I used a knife blade through one of the tiny holes near a corner in the grill to lever up one corner, then another corner. That gets one side up, and you can just use your hands to lift the grill out. It's fiddley, but not too bad. If you are lucky, you can use the same glue strips to hold it in when you are done. Otherside a bead of hot glue might serve?
5:46 Vintage audio tech with 47 years experience here. I saw this video months ago, but just now noticed that you "don't use solder with flux in it." How do you get it to stick? And why would you do such a thing? What's wrong with rosin-core solder? (Remember, you're arguing with literally EVERYONE who has ever soldered an electrical connection.)
I use flux free solder because it helps keep the phase alignment of my prognosticator and transmogrifier at a perfect 180°...Just kidding, I have no idea why I said that in the video haha. I must have been very tired that day. I will add a card to that time stamp to clarify. I use Kester 60/40 rosin core solder. You're always finding my mistakes and helping to educate the people and me, Scott. I appreciate it!
@@Shuksanaudio People have been finding my mistakes for 60 years, my friend! But that's how we learn. Thanks!
Great video
Thank you! I appreciate you watching ❤️
Just picked up an aluminum pair in Goodwill for $4. I was surprised they sounded pretty good on the STA-112 that I got with them for $20.
Nice! That's a sweet deal on both!
I bought the original pairs in 1980 for my dorm room, and still have them after 40 plus years. Coupled with the legendary NAD 3020, these speakers will blow you away. Everyone in the dorm were amazed. I have hooked them up to lesser electronics, and their shine disappears. So don't believe the notion that they don't have any bass. A few years ago, I hooked them again and found the highs to be harsh. Swapped the electrolytic cap and still sounded harsh. Don't know if my ears changed or that I no longer have the NAD 3020 run them.
Interesting! Maybe it's a perfect match. You should get another 3020 and see if that shine comes back. Thanks for sharing!
@@Shuksanaudio I sold the 3020 to a friend of mine back in the early 90's, and he still has it. Traded it with him for his microwave. Grrrrr... But he doesn't want to sell. Good thing is I still have the microwave and use it everyday. The 3020 on Ebay are way overpriced now.
Oh man! That's wild. Glad that the microwave is still working haha. They don't seem overpriced to me at 200-300 for a solid amp with shipping. But maybe I'm just used to different receivers. I'd love to try a Nad 3020 someday. @@lwh7301
@@Shuksanaudio I paid $199 for the 3020 brand new in 1980, so I find it hard to believe that they are going for $300 these days. And they tend to be beat up, having gone through many hands. I had to replace a large capacitor ($5) in the microwave once, but it's been great. It's a Panasonic, made in Japan.
Hi there I’m in the process of getting some m7’s and still have a 3020…I’ll let a comment about how they work out. FYI I was thinking of using a Fosi v3 in my bedroom with them as it has a rather polite top end…if you’re looking for something “economical” to try with yours.
Nice! Put some bass blockers on them and pair with a Dayton Sub-80 and you'll have a killer 2.1 system.
Love the recommendation! They do sound really good with a sub!
Most of my speakers I run them what I call full range and I just use caps on the tweeter for protection the woofer Runs in full range so it has more midrange plus bas , to me it works very well and sounds awesome except for my EV 12 TRXB it has its own crossover built into the speaker , most full range speakers don't need a crossover . My coolest Speaker is a ALTEC University Mustang it does not require a crossover I let them run in full range in a pair of Aristocrat enclosures crafted bye Paul Klipsch , I built mine from plans from Electrovoice , and the enclosure is built to run in the corners of a room they really do enhance the sound that comes out of them just like being in a theater , The Aristocrat can give any speaker a increase of 10 Watts . I am The Speaker Doctor I have bin building speakers since high school , to me Electrovoice is one of the best theater speakers made and for live performances plus they make awesome guitar speakers . sorry i love to gab about my speaker builds .
Nice! Yes, some woofers work fine without a low pass filter which is how a lot of lower end vintage speakers were run with nothing on the woofer. It keeps the damping factor of the speaker lower for older amps with low damping factors such as tube amps and early solid state. I used to have a set of the 15" Electrovoice wolverine full range speakers and they sounded pretyy solid in an open baffle setup. Sounds like you've been doing this a long time! I love to hear about peoples builds! Thanks for sharing and watching my video!
Matt, who can I get to work on my walnut pr. They are original. I want to ship them and get them back restored.
Thanks for stopping in. I am working on a simpler crossover design that is more drop in but I could also drop it into your walnut pair if you wanted to mail them. It would just cost a bit extra. Shoot me an email if you're serious about this and we can chat more. It might be a couple of months before I can get to them. Shuksanaudio@gmail.com
I had a white pair that were apparent speakers that I repurposed for my game room’s rear surround system.
I have hearing damage but I like @B” better. Yes, it is more shrill but that’s why you don’t buy speakers sign unheard.
Nice! These make great surrounds. I think audio is great because different people prefer different things. It allows us to build a system that we like for our tastes which feels more personal. Thanks for chiming in! -Matt
how many inch this mini speaker driver ? tq
It's a 4 inch woofer on these little guys. Thanks for watching!
Hey Matt, nice work. How much for a pair of crossovers?
Thanks James! I’m scheming up a new crossover design and trying to keep it cheap ish. I think a pair of them would cost around $80-90 with shipping. Is that something you’d be interested in?
imo the vocals on speaker B sounded more real or live. but yeah, the shrill factor is a negative.
Totally! That extra bit of brightness does keep them sounding more alive at lower volumes. Its ear piercing once you turn it up haha. Thanks for chiming in ❤️ -Matt
JBL makes speakers like this but are on a whole another plane of quality and sound.
I bet! JBL makes really great stuff!
What are they called?
A. all day
New sub here
Ayye thank you!
I have the wooden oak finish one. On an old realistic receiver
Nice! Those are beautiful little speakers. Realistic made some solid receivers as well.
Those minimus 7
Were sold by the thousands
Models with the walnut face are rare compared to the others.
They sure are! I've never found a walnut pair at a thrift but I hope to one day! Thanks for watching!
I just bought a pair from an antique/thrift store for $20! They are in excellent shape and will just require a quick sand and new finish. I was going to build this crossover, but let me know what you are going to sell them for and I may just get them through you!
Amazing! that's a great deal for the wooden ones! I'll be working on the crossover kit soon, shoot me an email if you're interested and I'll let you know when I have them ready Shuksanaudio@gmail.com @@randysaylor700
Try taking a stock minimus seven and simply reversing the tweeter leads. The tweeters were intentionally wired out-of-phase to make the speaker seem to have more bass. This mod costs nothing and is reversible.
Thanks for the tip, Scott! I’ve heard of this mod but haven’t tested it myself. What improvements did you notice? Does it flatten out the tweeter level? Coming in with the great tips as always 🙏
@@Shuksanaudio It makes the midrange much less phasey and more - if you'll pardon the pun - realistic. It's just more musical, especially with strings and vocals.
@@ScottGrammer haha pun pardoned lol. I'll have to try that if I come acrosso another pair. Nice simple mod.
Would this mod work for the Minimus 77 as well?
@@Omegga26 I don't know, as I have not tried it. But, give it a shot, It can't hurt anything, and its reversible.
You've done some really fine work on those, but both pairs sound like a phone.
Haha 😂 They definitely sound a lot better in person but still lack any low end and do give a very shouty/phone sounding experience if used without a sub. Thanks for watching :)
My unmodified Minimus 7's sound better (to me) than my John Blue JB3 speakers. That seems crazy but they are a lot more pleasant.
Nice! I'm glad you enjoy them so much! They do sound nice for their size even stock. Thanks for watching!
A
Thanks for watching!
Way too much work for what these speakers are. Just not worth It.
To each their own
They are tiny, and cheap. The tweeter is excellent, and the 4 inch woofer is adequate to maybe 100Hz. If you want decent bass, you must add a subwoofer. This post is about improving speakers we already have, so a lot of people are interested in doing that. You can't buy these new, but they are very common in thrift stores or on FB Marketplace for $20 and up. Of course these won't rival the sound of huge expensive speakers, but that's not their purpose. They work great if you need a tiny, cheap speaker, say on a desktop or even bedside.
@@MarkWilliams-ix1qf I still dislike them.
Adding a subwoofer defeats the purpose of them.
To clarify for people that may not understand what Arthur is referring to and to state less of an opinion and more facts. There are some people who would prefer to have their speakers cover the full frequency range rather than have a separate sub. Using a sub with speakers is often times a much cheaper and smaller solution to filling in the low end than having large speakers. It's also true that almost all speakers don't have good bass response below 40hz and a sub can help fill in that gap. Some people just prefer to not use subs. To get even more nerdy, the wave of a bass freqeuncy is very long, which means it's very hard or impossible for your brain to tell where the frequencies are coming from, which means that you can place a single sub near your speakers and you won't be able to tell that the bass is only coming from one corner or the other the same way that you would if it were producing higher frequencies. I disagree that using a sub defeats the purpose of speakers. They both serve a purpose and can save a lot of money and space. @@ArthurJS123