Speaking from general power train experience, a splined axle like the coarse one shown will break in torsion where the root of the spline transitions into the full diameter of the shaft. This failure mode is primarily due to the fatigue loading of the splines in this location. As the axle twists to provide torque to the wheel, the transition area of the spline root sees a changing diameter. In effect, the splines turn more than the nominal shaft diameter and ‘cyclically fatigue’. Interestingly, it appears like the fine tooth shaft has rolled splines instead of cut splines. Rolling splines has primarily two substantial impacts on strength: it makes less of a drastic difference in shaft diameter between nominal and minor, and rolling the splines creates stronger teeth by aligning the grain structure through cold forming.
Thank you for some info I have been looking for info on axles. I'm trying to make a yard pulling tractor and can't find info or axles for sale. Yes I am trying to make a very strong yard tractor for pulling stuff around at home I would really like to get in contact with someone that knows this stuff to help guide me
I have a few videos on here showing how to swap them into cast iron. One video on the regular and anther 30mm conversion as well. If you have any questions or need some help on what you would need to do this axle swap you can email me at steiger256@yahoo.com
Ya it was pretty nasty stuff. When I drained it before it was oil. Lots of years of use created some junk in them tubes. It was almost like grease. The left side was almost tar.
steiger 256, you really skipped A LOT at the end!! WTH! What the hell did you do with the axles???? I thought you were going to use the aluminum axle housing.... How in the hell did you put the fine spline axles in the cast iron axle housing???
The aluminum axle housing is weak so that is why you use the cast iron housing. Once you remove the fine spline axles and carrier from the aluminum housing and the coarse spline and 1 piece carrier.from the cast iron the video shows how to remove and swap the ring gears. I did leave out at the end bolting on the axle tubes. Once you bolt on the tubes the axles slide right in and you secure them back on with the C clips.
@@steiger256 Thx. Sorry for getting a little heated. But not showing the end left me a little in the dark on putting it back together. I want to do the exact same thing.
@@speedbuggy7240 No problem. I left some of it out to keep the video shorter. Once you get the carrier in place and shimed up its pretty easy from there. I use the RTV gasket maker on the tubes also. Once that cures around a day later you torque down the bolts and the axles slide right in. Just remember to keep the C clips from the fine spline. I am not sure if the coarse axle clips will work. It is pretty easy to do the swap. The ring gear is the toughest part. If you want a really strong built rear end you can do the 30mm swap. I did a video on that as well, But it is more complex. You have to machine down the left axle tube for it to fit on the cast iron rear end.
Are you going to add the Xtrememotorworks.com axle brace kit to this rear end? If so, don't add any hytrans or gear oil till you do cause you'll be adding longer axle tube bolts that come with the kit. Also, I've seen other guys drill a drain hole in the rear end housing so that axle tube oil can be drained with the housing instead of being trapped inside those axle tube. Since your making all those other fancy upgrades! lol Nice video!
I am thinking of adding the braces to the 1772. I am looking at the Extreme Motorworks 3 point hitch. I am not sure how bad the cast iron rears flex. I am going to look into that tho to make sure. I am also looking at the Extreme Motorworks front hubs as well. I have a feeling I am going to put more money in this than I wanted to. LOL
@@steiger256 If you keep the axle tube bolts torqued to 30 ft-lbs, you shouldn't have any trouble. I was going to install those braces on my 782, but I decided it probably isn't necessary.
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Speaking from general power train experience, a splined axle like the coarse one shown will break in torsion where the root of the spline transitions into the full diameter of the shaft. This failure mode is primarily due to the fatigue loading of the splines in this location. As the axle twists to provide torque to the wheel, the transition area of the spline root sees a changing diameter. In effect, the splines turn more than the nominal shaft diameter and ‘cyclically fatigue’. Interestingly, it appears like the fine tooth shaft has rolled splines instead of cut splines. Rolling splines has primarily two substantial impacts on strength: it makes less of a drastic difference in shaft diameter between nominal and minor, and rolling the splines creates stronger teeth by aligning the grain structure through cold forming.
Thank you for some info I have been looking for info on axles. I'm trying to make a yard pulling tractor and can't find info or axles for sale. Yes I am trying to make a very strong yard tractor for pulling stuff around at home
I would really like to get in contact with someone that knows this stuff to help guide me
I have a few videos on here showing how to swap them into cast iron. One video on the regular and anther 30mm conversion as well. If you have any questions or need some help on what you would need to do this axle swap you can email me at steiger256@yahoo.com
We’re the Rotors welded onto the axles how did you get them off?
Man look at that grease in them axle tubes. I'm sure mine probably looks even worse haha
Ya it was pretty nasty stuff. When I drained it before it was oil. Lots of years of use created some junk in them tubes. It was almost like grease. The left side was almost tar.
steiger 256, you really skipped A LOT at the end!! WTH! What the hell did you do with the axles???? I thought you were going to use the aluminum axle housing.... How in the hell did you put the fine spline axles in the cast iron axle housing???
The aluminum axle housing is weak so that is why you use the cast iron housing. Once you remove the fine spline axles and carrier from the aluminum housing and the coarse spline and 1 piece carrier.from the cast iron the video shows how to remove and swap the ring gears. I did leave out at the end bolting on the axle tubes. Once you bolt on the tubes the axles slide right in and you secure them back on with the C clips.
@@steiger256 Thx. Sorry for getting a little heated. But not showing the end left me a little in the dark on putting it back together. I want to do the exact same thing.
@@speedbuggy7240 No problem. I left some of it out to keep the video shorter. Once you get the carrier in place and shimed up its pretty easy from there. I use the RTV gasket maker on the tubes also. Once that cures around a day later you torque down the bolts and the axles slide right in. Just remember to keep the C clips from the fine spline. I am not sure if the coarse axle clips will work. It is pretty easy to do the swap. The ring gear is the toughest part. If you want a really strong built rear end you can do the 30mm swap. I did a video on that as well, But it is more complex. You have to machine down the left axle tube for it to fit on the cast iron rear end.
Are you going to add the Xtrememotorworks.com axle brace kit to this rear end? If so, don't add any hytrans or gear oil till you do cause you'll be adding longer axle tube bolts that come with the kit. Also, I've seen other guys drill a drain hole in the rear end housing so that axle tube oil can be drained with the housing instead of being trapped inside those axle tube. Since your making all those other fancy upgrades! lol
Nice video!
I am thinking of adding the braces to the 1772. I am looking at the Extreme Motorworks 3 point hitch. I am not sure how bad the cast iron rears flex. I am going to look into that tho to make sure. I am also looking at the Extreme Motorworks front hubs as well. I have a feeling I am going to put more money in this than I wanted to. LOL
That's the way it usually goes on my projects too. $$$ But atleast you'll know that you done everything the best possible way.
@@steiger256 If you keep the axle tube bolts torqued to 30 ft-lbs, you shouldn't have any trouble. I was going to install those braces on my 782, but I decided it probably isn't necessary.