Liked and subscribed. These videos are excellent. Seriously, these cap iron and lever cap video should be the reference for hand tool wood workers when refurbishing or setting up and Bailey style hand plane. Great job!
Your graphics are great and fit exactly how my mind and need for understanding works. Thank you so much for putting this out there. All the right reasons for RUclips to exist.
This video and your chipbreaker one are invaluable resources for wet-behind-the-ears-woodworkers like myself. I'm having some issues with my new no 5. The lever cap keeps coming off when retracting the blade and the adjustment wheel is far too stiff. My theory is as follows… I've found that due to how there is no clearance between the cap iron and iron (prev owner over flattened the edge in pursuit of having it mate flat with the back of the blade), the lever cap is sitting parallel under the lever cap screw instead of at an angle. This means as the blade is retracted, the lever cap is easily pulled up and off as the screw isn't blocking it's ability to travel up the body of the plane. The only way to somewhat secure the lever cap means I have to really tighten the lever cap screw to sandwich it to lever cap etc as opposed to having only moderate pressure and the angle of the lever cap block it’s path of potential movement. This could explain why the adjustment wheel is incredibly tough to turn past the point of play/backlash also. If I set the lever cap screw so I can turn the adjustment wheel easily enough, the lever cap is essentially free moving and not secured at all. Annoyingly, I don’t have a replacement cap iron to hand yet so I can’t test this theory. Have you ever encountered this and does my reasoning hold water y'reckon?
I haven't encountered this, but from what you described it sounds like you've figured out what the problem is. If you have a number 4, you can try the cap iron from that plane, which should be the same width as the 5.
@@BobsWoodStuff Right, turns out it has been a perfect storm of mechanical shortcomings; the cap iron is far too flat and the lever cap has had the "tail" of the kidney bean opening filed down/broken off meaning it can easily become dislodged. Time to source replacements for both. Thanks for your input mate!
Love your videos. Just starting to get in to hand tools and this was very informative. The graphics, along with your excellent vocal delivery, makes your videos top notch.
The graphics are awesome...what CAD software did you use to make the 3D model? Did you use any video editing or post processing software to enhance the 3D animation?
Thanks. I used SketchUp for the 3d modeling and animating. I also used Premiere Pro for video editing, and in that program I did speed ramps and blended between the opaque renders and the x-ray renders.
Thanks for making these types of videos! The zoomed 3D models really help for a beginner to understand the finer details more than the typical explainer video I've seen. Do you have any plans to do some sort of "how to flatten a bench top" or "how to S4S a board" series in this same fashion? I feel like there's a lot out there showing people *how* to do it, but nothing that goes into this kind of detail on *why* the various flattening/dimensioning phases work the way they work and what effect taking thinner or thicker shavings with a longer or shorter plane would have on the process.
I wish you could make videos on all subjects I know nothing about. You have a gift
Unpretentious, sensible, no backing music, simple, accurate, clear speech, outstanding graphics. Thank you
You're welcome!
My girlfriend and I found a lever cap and I had to show my girlfriend just what it was thanks for your video!
Liked and subscribed. These videos are excellent. Seriously, these cap iron and lever cap video should be the reference for hand tool wood workers when refurbishing or setting up and Bailey style hand plane. Great job!
Thanks!
Great info. I use my lever cap as a screwdriver to undo the screw from the chip breaker and the cutting iron. :) Learnt that tip from Paul Sellers
Oh yeah, I do that sometimes but I often forget it can be used for that.
Your graphics are great and fit exactly how my mind and need for understanding works. Thank you so much for putting this out there. All the right reasons for RUclips to exist.
Glad I could help! You're welcome.
These are fantastic videos, thank you so much!
You're welcome!
This video and your chipbreaker one are invaluable resources for wet-behind-the-ears-woodworkers like myself.
I'm having some issues with my new no 5. The lever cap keeps coming off when retracting the blade and the adjustment wheel is far too stiff.
My theory is as follows…
I've found that due to how there is no clearance between the cap iron and iron (prev owner over flattened the edge in pursuit of having it mate flat with the back of the blade), the lever cap is sitting parallel under the lever cap screw instead of at an angle. This means as the blade is retracted, the lever cap is easily pulled up and off as the screw isn't blocking it's ability to travel up the body of the plane. The only way to somewhat secure the lever cap means I have to really tighten the lever cap screw to sandwich it to lever cap etc as opposed to having only moderate pressure and the angle of the lever cap block it’s path of potential movement.
This could explain why the adjustment wheel is incredibly tough to turn past the point of play/backlash also. If I set the lever cap screw so I can turn the adjustment wheel easily enough, the lever cap is essentially free moving and not secured at all.
Annoyingly, I don’t have a replacement cap iron to hand yet so I can’t test this theory. Have you ever encountered this and does my reasoning hold water y'reckon?
I haven't encountered this, but from what you described it sounds like you've figured out what the problem is.
If you have a number 4, you can try the cap iron from that plane, which should be the same width as the 5.
@@BobsWoodStuff Right, turns out it has been a perfect storm of mechanical shortcomings; the cap iron is far too flat and the lever cap has had the "tail" of the kidney bean opening filed down/broken off meaning it can easily become dislodged. Time to source replacements for both.
Thanks for your input mate!
Very clear and simple , thanks
You're welcome!
Excellent Presentation
Another outstanding video!
Thank you!
Love your videos. Just starting to get in to hand tools and this was very informative. The graphics, along with your excellent vocal delivery, makes your videos top notch.
Thanks so much! I'm glad the videos are useful.
Really good video. Didn’t know what I didn’t know! 👍🏼
Thanks! I spent a lot of time on the editing and animations.
Very well made, incredibly informational. Love your videos! Keep doing what you love!
Thanks! I will!
Great info!
Thanks!
The graphics are awesome...what CAD software did you use to make the 3D model? Did you use any video editing or post processing software to enhance the 3D animation?
Thanks. I used SketchUp for the 3d modeling and animating. I also used Premiere Pro for video editing, and in that program I did speed ramps and blended between the opaque renders and the x-ray renders.
Thanks for making these types of videos! The zoomed 3D models really help for a beginner to understand the finer details more than the typical explainer video I've seen.
Do you have any plans to do some sort of "how to flatten a bench top" or "how to S4S a board" series in this same fashion? I feel like there's a lot out there showing people *how* to do it, but nothing that goes into this kind of detail on *why* the various flattening/dimensioning phases work the way they work and what effect taking thinner or thicker shavings with a longer or shorter plane would have on the process.
Yes, I do plan to make some videos about flattening a board and incorporate graphics like these.
I've never seen such an absence of bullshit! This is fantastic. You should be proud.
Thanks!