Hi Deez, very impressive machine you made the right decision on which mill to buy! Had to laugh though when you made the comment about chip control. Say goodbye to a clean work bench. Cheers...
Thanks, Oh it gets worse. I recently squared up some stock and the Chips are everywhwere. I thought the lathe was messy....Doesn't even compare. :-) Really glad I moved my machine area in the back workshop...
Unlock, move axis, lock. With the spindle too. All locked for rigidity, except the axis your moving. Especially the spindle and Z, but all are important. Unlock, move/mill/drill, lock again. Makes a big difference with chatter👍👌🇦🇺 close up camera is great
Thanks for the tips. I need to remember to lock the axis im not using. Also still experimenting with camera angles and mounts. I want to imcorporate a combination of shots. some close and other wide angles. If this channel continues to grow I'll invest in a better camera and mic setup.
I knew someone would pick up on that. I am trying to be better about that but sometimes I still forget. Its time I just force the issue and correct this bad habit of mine before I get hurt.
Love that little 'merica flag spindle DTI holder, red clamp, blue arm and a white DTI. It's only barely hanging on the splinde there Deez. I've got one too, but without the cool noga bit, you can feel when there locked on and square on the spindle. Man, that machine is 👌, the workshop looks so good, well done. HSS is fine, it works great. Ally likes to chip weld to the cutters, try a small bit of lubricant of some sort, it might help. If you do get some R8 collets inches future, you'll get 2 inches of vertical real estate back, certain jobs might need that extra Z height. I've got a bit of OCD, and the organised setup setup for the QC tools and Allen t bars is great. 👍👌🇦🇺
R8's will no doubt be in my future. For now as I learn and work on small projects the ER40 adapter is working well. I didnt realize it but I agree, Loving the Red, White, and Blue look thats taking shape. I am not great at organization but trying to keep things in reach but safely out of harms way.
Hi Deez, that R8 arbor should have a B16-22 designation depending on the chuck's taper. A Vertex or Kurt vise will be a solid purchase. I always use lubricant on Alu. It gums up the end mills very quickly without it. Enjoy playing with the mill. 👍
I have had that problem in the past with aluminum and HSS on the lathe. I try to always use lube when I'm cutting alu with hss. I'd love a Kurt someday but for now I got one of the cheapos on Amazon. This initial Tooling is taking its toll on my pocket book. Need the house accountant (Wife) to free up some funds for more tooling. :-)
After you move the table for the next cut lock it down so it doesn’t move and try to pull into the direction of the end mill while you are cross feeding in the other direction. Also get rid of that chuck setup the more that end mill is hanging out of the spindle the more chatter you will get. Just use the appropriate size collet
I received my PM 25 over a week ago. Got it all cleaned up, had to unscrew the collet set screw on the spindle slightly to get the collet to engage the draw bar. Also my Y axis was very stiff even after cleaning and way oil applied. So needed to adjust the Y axis gibs as well. What is the brand of your DTI holder you use to tram with?
I went back to the vid and your all about the R8's already. 👍 jam that chuck onto that R8 arbor good, I've had a dodgy arbor with a MT3-JT6, and the JT6 didn't like holding the keyless chuck. The key one should be ok, the twist is in the key. I was torquing the keyless and twisted it off the arbor☹️, I got lucky, didn't bust nothing or ding the table. Like changing the chuck on a lathe, have a flat piece of wood on hand, put him on the lathe bed, or mill table, just for safety sake. I'd hate to ding either of those things.👍👌🇦🇺
Appreciate the reminder, I didnt seat the chuck on the arbor very well so This is a good reminder to do that. I know that will come loose if I dont go back and correct it. I did improve my Mill table protection...I'll be sharing that soon in another video and curious to see what others think.
You made the right decision on the machine unfortunately, money was tight for me and I bought an sieg x2d machine which has lasted 4 years but I’m going to upgrade asap
So far, I can recommend the Precision Matthews PM-25MV Mill. #NoAffiliation. I do not have any experience with any other milling machines but there is no comparision to the quality of the Vevor mini Lathe I also own. I have a friend who recommended YG-1 Taps. I plan to purchase those as I need to replace my faulty or broken Pittsburg Taps. I am sure they make great end mills as well, I will check those out. slowly building up my tooling arsenol.
Your first cut was a climb milling cut, it's in nylon, so it doesn't matter, but try and conventional mill if you can, driving into the work AGAINST the spin of the tool. Climb milling will want to drag the cutter into the work abit. Can do deeper cuts conventional milling and climb is good for delicate final cuts, leaves a nice surface finish. With top surfaces, if you climb mill around the outer edge, it drags the burr into the work, leaves a much nicer edge, nearly no burr👌. A good way to remember the X axis, hold your hands out infront of you like a fisherman telling a story about how big the fish was😂left to right. X was THIS big. For the handles, "right away" works for me, turn the handle to the right, table move away from me. I tend to hang out at the front right corner of my mill, easy access to the handles.👍👌🇦🇺sweet DRO mate.
Appreciate the advice, I need to learn more about when to use climb cuts and not. I will get there but always appreciate the help in these comments. All of it will help me get to where I need to be. Cool tip on how to remember. :-)
Never feed the material into the direction of the end mill it will constantly try to pull the material in. Always feed against the direction of the end mill
Don’t hang all of those heavy chucks on that fancy holder that is connected to the head under the DRO why put more stress on the head. Would be fine for just collets.
Hi Deez, very impressive machine you made the right decision on which mill to buy! Had to laugh though when you made the comment about chip control. Say goodbye to a clean work bench. Cheers...
Thanks, Oh it gets worse. I recently squared up some stock and the Chips are everywhwere. I thought the lathe was messy....Doesn't even compare. :-) Really glad I moved my machine area in the back workshop...
Unlock, move axis, lock. With the spindle too. All locked for rigidity, except the axis your moving. Especially the spindle and Z, but all are important. Unlock, move/mill/drill, lock again. Makes a big difference with chatter👍👌🇦🇺 close up camera is great
Thanks for the tips. I need to remember to lock the axis im not using. Also still experimenting with camera angles and mounts. I want to imcorporate a combination of shots. some close and other wide angles. If this channel continues to grow I'll invest in a better camera and mic setup.
Let the fun start!
Safety Glasses would be a good idea. Don't want to see you lose an eye.
I knew someone would pick up on that. I am trying to be better about that but sometimes I still forget. Its time I just force the issue and correct this bad habit of mine before I get hurt.
Love that little 'merica flag spindle DTI holder, red clamp, blue arm and a white DTI. It's only barely hanging on the splinde there Deez. I've got one too, but without the cool noga bit, you can feel when there locked on and square on the spindle. Man, that machine is 👌, the workshop looks so good, well done. HSS is fine, it works great. Ally likes to chip weld to the cutters, try a small bit of lubricant of some sort, it might help. If you do get some R8 collets inches future, you'll get 2 inches of vertical real estate back, certain jobs might need that extra Z height. I've got a bit of OCD, and the organised setup setup for the QC tools and Allen t bars is great. 👍👌🇦🇺
R8's will no doubt be in my future. For now as I learn and work on small projects the ER40 adapter is working well. I didnt realize it but I agree, Loving the Red, White, and Blue look thats taking shape. I am not great at organization but trying to keep things in reach but safely out of harms way.
Hi Deez, that R8 arbor should have a B16-22 designation depending on the chuck's taper. A Vertex or Kurt vise will be a solid purchase. I always use lubricant on Alu. It gums up the end mills very quickly without it. Enjoy playing with the mill. 👍
I have had that problem in the past with aluminum and HSS on the lathe. I try to always use lube when I'm cutting alu with hss. I'd love a Kurt someday but for now I got one of the cheapos on Amazon. This initial Tooling is taking its toll on my pocket book. Need the house accountant (Wife) to free up some funds for more tooling. :-)
@@deezworkshop we'd all love a Kurt, and to be a Curtis😅👍👌🇦🇺
@@adhawk5632 Curtis is Awesome.
After you move the table for the next cut lock it down so it doesn’t move and try to pull into the direction of the end mill while you are cross feeding in the other direction. Also get rid of that chuck setup the more that end mill is hanging out of the spindle the more chatter you will get. Just use the appropriate size collet
I received my PM 25 over a week ago. Got it all cleaned up, had to unscrew the collet set screw on the spindle slightly to get the collet to engage the draw bar. Also my Y axis was very stiff even after cleaning and way oil applied. So needed to adjust the Y axis gibs as well.
What is the brand of your DTI holder you use to tram with?
I had to adjust a couple locking levers and what not but my PM-25 arrived in great condition. The Holder brand I purchased is Anytime Tools
Just saying from my past mistakes and Emergency Room visits.
Safety cannot be stressed enough. No arguments here.
I went back to the vid and your all about the R8's already. 👍 jam that chuck onto that R8 arbor good, I've had a dodgy arbor with a MT3-JT6, and the JT6 didn't like holding the keyless chuck. The key one should be ok, the twist is in the key. I was torquing the keyless and twisted it off the arbor☹️, I got lucky, didn't bust nothing or ding the table. Like changing the chuck on a lathe, have a flat piece of wood on hand, put him on the lathe bed, or mill table, just for safety sake. I'd hate to ding either of those things.👍👌🇦🇺
Appreciate the reminder, I didnt seat the chuck on the arbor very well so This is a good reminder to do that. I know that will come loose if I dont go back and correct it. I did improve my Mill table protection...I'll be sharing that soon in another video and curious to see what others think.
Kerosene is the best lubricant for cutting aluminum
I appreciate the helpful comments, tips and tricks. Thanks for watching.
Center cut = 中心切割
I will see if I can pick that out of one of the endmill cases. thanks
For aluminum yg1are great 3 flute or 4 flute for steel
You made the right decision on the machine unfortunately, money was tight for me and I bought an sieg x2d machine which has lasted 4 years but I’m going to upgrade asap
So far, I can recommend the Precision Matthews PM-25MV Mill. #NoAffiliation. I do not have any experience with any other milling machines but there is no comparision to the quality of the Vevor mini Lathe I also own. I have a friend who recommended YG-1 Taps. I plan to purchase those as I need to replace my faulty or broken Pittsburg Taps. I am sure they make great end mills as well, I will check those out. slowly building up my tooling arsenol.
Your first cut was a climb milling cut, it's in nylon, so it doesn't matter, but try and conventional mill if you can, driving into the work AGAINST the spin of the tool. Climb milling will want to drag the cutter into the work abit. Can do deeper cuts conventional milling and climb is good for delicate final cuts, leaves a nice surface finish. With top surfaces, if you climb mill around the outer edge, it drags the burr into the work, leaves a much nicer edge, nearly no burr👌. A good way to remember the X axis, hold your hands out infront of you like a fisherman telling a story about how big the fish was😂left to right. X was THIS big. For the handles, "right away" works for me, turn the handle to the right, table move away from me. I tend to hang out at the front right corner of my mill, easy access to the handles.👍👌🇦🇺sweet DRO mate.
Appreciate the advice, I need to learn more about when to use climb cuts and not. I will get there but always appreciate the help in these comments. All of it will help me get to where I need to be. Cool tip on how to remember. :-)
Left to right is x axis front to back is y axis up and down is your z axis
Never feed the material into the direction of the end mill it will constantly try to pull the material in. Always feed against the direction of the end mill
Try using a fly cutter instead of many passes with the bottom of an end mill
Don’t hang all of those heavy chucks on that fancy holder that is connected to the head under the DRO why put more stress on the head. Would be fine for just collets.