Glad you found the keyboard mappings useful! For applying the conductive ink I use a very very fine tip paint brush, and even just use a few strands from it. For repairing the plungers, I use copper adhesive tape cut to size and stuck on to the ends of the plunger.
@@NoelsRetroLab I cut the tape longer length wise, so that it can be folded over at the ends, to make it a bit more secure. Maybe aluminium foil could also be used if you have any double sided tape.
I bought a new membrane at Sellmyretro last week. I pray the quarantined gods for it to be delivered soon. My old membrane was missing de 1waz column and the whole numpad + cursor keys. I was going to spend more in conductive paint (silver, good one) than in a brand new membrane. Very nice video!!👍👍
Amiga video: gets a free thumbs up! Nice to see the membrane repair methods as well. However, these days usually it's possible to get a newly manufactured Amiga replacement keyboard membrane, so maybe that could have had a mention too. Amiga Rules Forever! :)
Thanks! Yeah, you're right. People should be ready for sticker shock though. Those new membranes ain't cheap! Also someone just told me on FB that they also make a PCB to substitute the membrane completely. It's not much more expensive than a new membrane!
After fixing my niece's husband''s A500 which was unable to boot from DF0:, I noticed the left Enter key doesn't work either. This video might prove very useful when I attempt fixing that issue as well. Thanks!
I usually remove one single, hair-like thin wire from inside a normal USB cable. I scratch the green ink of the membrane very carefully so to expose the conductive part, position the wire over the broken part and then cover it with a surgically cut piece of transparent tape.
Nice repair video! The good thing is that the community gives some tips and new approaches for repairing things like Monideth Pen did. Following this channel is better than going to some electronics course! Very well done! Keep the good job. I feel that I have learned something new today
Hey man. Cool video. I'm not an expert, but what about a thin slither of aluminium or copper tape with a dab of conductive paint at each end to ensure connectivity? Just a thought. Also what about the rust on the keyboard backing plate? Will it not reinfect the new membrane?
To repair a track? That will work if it's really short, otherwise it actually adds quite a bit of resistance. That's why I put a small cable instead. As for the rust on the back of the plate, it's fine as long as it doesn't get exposed to humidity again. It won't reinfect anything :-)
With how most of the damage is condensed to the right numpad area on the first membrane it looks like it could have been a typical case of someone spilling their drink on the keyboard if they were right handed and had the glass/cup sitting there as well. :-)
Really nice video. Just one suggestion: In order to correct conductivity on the pad, isn't it better to use some conductive paint on top of the tips, instead of cutting them? Conductive paint is been sold as a marker too, which makes it really easy to apply, especialy for keypads of any kind.
Yes, I suppose I could have done that. The new paint on one tip would have to conduct to the other tip, so I would probably need to paint all the plunger. It's worth experimenting with. The other commenter said he used copper tape there too, so that seems pretty solid too.
@@NoelsRetroLab Yes, sorry for not mention it in my comment, of course you should apply the conductive paint to all the surface and not just the tips. Copper tape works fine too but it is more expensive.
Supid question alert, if you are "repairing" the tracks with that conductive tape, why do you need that own cable to "skip track" that wasn't a problem in the first place?
Good question! I realized I wasn't clear about that at all. The track that started all the way in the 9 winds around the right side of the membrane and eventually makes it to the connector. I knew the track was intact from the 9 until the enter key (once I made that small fix), and that it was broken from there to the connector. The problem is, it was in such bad shape that I didn't know where it was broken. Chances are it was in multiple places and I would have to scrape and apply conductive paint everywhere. Since that's only a good solution for short stretches, I thought it would be safer to jump directly to a part that I knew was good and connect the two. That way we avoid all the winding track around the numeric keypad full of corrosion.
Hola. ¿Recuerdas que TerribleFire le ofreció a GadgetUK una placa o dos a elegir de A4000?. Todavía está con eso, y son vídeos muy interesantes la verdad. Pues mira tú por dónde que yo tengo dos placas de A1200. Tengo chips comprados y eso, pensando en repararlas, pero me ofrecería a un trato como el de ellos (una para tí), así que si tienes ganas de echar un vistazo a las placas, aquí estoy ;)
Glad you found the keyboard mappings useful! For applying the conductive ink I use a very very fine tip paint brush, and even just use a few strands from it. For repairing the plungers, I use copper adhesive tape cut to size and stuck on to the ends of the plunger.
Good tips! I'm out of copper tape, but that's a really good idea. You have the tape go across the whole plunger, right? Not just covering the ends?
@@NoelsRetroLab I cut the tape longer length wise, so that it can be folded over at the ends, to make it a bit more secure. Maybe aluminium foil could also be used if you have any double sided tape.
I bought a new membrane at Sellmyretro last week. I pray the quarantined gods for it to be delivered soon. My old membrane was missing de 1waz column and the whole numpad + cursor keys. I was going to spend more in conductive paint (silver, good one) than in a brand new membrane. Very nice video!!👍👍
Wow. I've never seen an A500 keyboard membrane that corroded. A valiant repair effort, for sure. Thank goodness you had a spare. Nice work.
Amiga video: gets a free thumbs up! Nice to see the membrane repair methods as well. However, these days usually it's possible to get a newly manufactured Amiga replacement keyboard membrane, so maybe that could have had a mention too. Amiga Rules Forever! :)
Thanks! Yeah, you're right. People should be ready for sticker shock though. Those new membranes ain't cheap! Also someone just told me on FB that they also make a PCB to substitute the membrane completely. It's not much more expensive than a new membrane!
Noel's Retro Lab could you please share more info on that pcb?
I haven't tested it, but here's the link: sordan.ie/product/713/new-premium-hard-keyboard-membrane-pcb-amiga-500--1200-green
After fixing my niece's husband''s A500 which was unable to boot from DF0:, I noticed the left Enter key doesn't work either. This video might prove very useful when I attempt fixing that issue as well. Thanks!
I usually remove one single, hair-like thin wire from inside a normal USB cable. I scratch the green ink of the membrane very carefully so to expose the conductive part, position the wire over the broken part and then cover it with a surgically cut piece of transparent tape.
Nice repair video! The good thing is that the community gives some tips and new approaches for repairing things like Monideth Pen did. Following this channel is better than going to some electronics course! Very well done! Keep the good job. I feel that I have learned something new today
Glad you liked it, Jorge! Cheers.
I like your calm way of explaining things. Thank you for your interesting repair video. 👍
Thanks for the kind words!
Thanks for your effort and great explanation!
Yay! A new Noel video! =)
Problem whit conuctive rubber is that the graphite particals in it crumble down or rubber absorbs foren mater.
Shame the original was too far gone. Great tips though. BTW, I managed to order a CB2 micro kit. Just a matter of waiting for it to arrive.
Great job man ;)
I am wondering if it is possible to 3D-print a new membrane sheet, using conductive PLA or PET(G).....
Hey man. Cool video. I'm not an expert, but what about a thin slither of aluminium or copper tape with a dab of conductive paint at each end to ensure connectivity? Just a thought.
Also what about the rust on the keyboard backing plate? Will it not reinfect the new membrane?
To repair a track? That will work if it's really short, otherwise it actually adds quite a bit of resistance. That's why I put a small cable instead. As for the rust on the back of the plate, it's fine as long as it doesn't get exposed to humidity again. It won't reinfect anything :-)
@@NoelsRetroLab Yeah, I just meant for short runs. Might look a little neater but I get your point about resistance. Nice work :)
With how most of the damage is condensed to the right numpad area on the first membrane it looks like it could have been a typical case of someone spilling their drink on the keyboard if they were right handed and had the glass/cup sitting there as well. :-)
Good point! I hadn't thought too much about that, but it certainly fits. Good case of detective deduction right there 😃🔍
Really nice video. Just one suggestion: In order to correct conductivity on the pad, isn't it better to use some conductive paint on top of the tips, instead of cutting them? Conductive paint is been sold as a marker too, which makes it really easy to apply, especialy for keypads of any kind.
Yes, I suppose I could have done that. The new paint on one tip would have to conduct to the other tip, so I would probably need to paint all the plunger. It's worth experimenting with. The other commenter said he used copper tape there too, so that seems pretty solid too.
@@NoelsRetroLab Yes, sorry for not mention it in my comment, of course you should apply the conductive paint to all the surface and not just the tips. Copper tape works fine too but it is more expensive.
Supid question alert, if you are "repairing" the tracks with that conductive tape, why do you need that own cable to "skip track" that wasn't a problem in the first place?
Good question! I realized I wasn't clear about that at all. The track that started all the way in the 9 winds around the right side of the membrane and eventually makes it to the connector. I knew the track was intact from the 9 until the enter key (once I made that small fix), and that it was broken from there to the connector. The problem is, it was in such bad shape that I didn't know where it was broken. Chances are it was in multiple places and I would have to scrape and apply conductive paint everywhere. Since that's only a good solution for short stretches, I thought it would be safer to jump directly to a part that I knew was good and connect the two. That way we avoid all the winding track around the numeric keypad full of corrosion.
Hola. ¿Recuerdas que TerribleFire le ofreció a GadgetUK una placa o dos a elegir de A4000?. Todavía está con eso, y son vídeos muy interesantes la verdad. Pues mira tú por dónde que yo tengo dos placas de A1200. Tengo chips comprados y eso, pensando en repararlas, pero me ofrecería a un trato como el de ellos (una para tí), así que si tienes ganas de echar un vistazo a las placas, aquí estoy ;)
Me parece fenomenal. Tenía ganas de meterme con un 1200! Mándame un email a noelsretrolab en gmail y confirmamos los detalles.
once i clean an oldcomputer, and have the same problem of the RETURN key and i recovered with powder carbon of pencil !!!!!
Please don't use window cleaner on plastics. Most window cleaners contain ammonia which affects plastics. It makes plastics dull and brittle.