The reason that the strut does not rebound after being compressed is because it is oil filled but NOT gas charged. Back when the Fiero was new, Gas charged shocks / struts were basically non existent for the economy based commuter Fiero. Back in the 80's, a gas charged shock / strut was a high dollar luxury.
What kind of paint did you use for the knuckles ? and have you thought about 2k clear coat on the kunckle and control arms as well ? Edit: also knowing you are in a rust prone area you should put a lano based undercoating like surface sheild or fluid film after the swap to keep it all pristine!!
I used rustoleum flat black protective enamel. I didn’t end up using clear coat but it’s not a bad idea. Our area doesn’t salt the roads so the cars here are actually pretty rust-free! Surprisingly the fiero has little rust anywhere.
Did I just watch you disassemble a strut without a spring compressor??!?!? In the motor trade that is just about the quickest way to kill yourself! I wouldn't try that again. I see you ground into the lower control arm trying to grind the rivets out. I would replace those arms.
The car had lowering springs, no real tension and perfectly safe to remove with my method. The lower control arms are still sound, the rivets were ground down and no excessive material was removed from the control arm itself.
The reason that the strut does not rebound after being compressed is because it is oil filled but NOT gas charged. Back when the Fiero was new, Gas charged shocks / struts were basically non existent for the economy based commuter Fiero. Back in the 80's, a gas charged shock / strut was a high dollar luxury.
Nice work! '84-'87 suspension & brakes are repopped & supported.
Be glad u didn't save an '88!
What up with the firebird build we haven’t seen that in a bit
Hello, what was your source for the ground control coilovers? I see you note the fiero store and Rodney dickman for other parts. Thanks
Reads title, then talks about a Tahoe for over 10 minutes. 🤡
What kind of paint did you use for the knuckles ? and have you thought about 2k clear coat on the kunckle and control arms as well ?
Edit: also knowing you are in a rust prone area you should put a lano based undercoating like surface sheild or fluid film after the swap to keep it all pristine!!
I used rustoleum flat black protective enamel. I didn’t end up using clear coat but it’s not a bad idea. Our area doesn’t salt the roads so the cars here are actually pretty rust-free! Surprisingly the fiero has little rust anywhere.
Bonneville???
Bonneville!
Did I just watch you disassemble a strut without a spring compressor??!?!? In the motor trade that is just about the quickest way to kill yourself! I wouldn't try that again. I see you ground into the lower control arm trying to grind the rivets out. I would replace those arms.
The car had lowering springs, no real tension and perfectly safe to remove with my method. The lower control arms are still sound, the rivets were ground down and no excessive material was removed from the control arm itself.
What is all required for the engine swap??