Can You Brew a JUICY, HAZY New England IPA on BASIC Equipment? | Grain to Glass
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- In this video, I brewed a New England IPA (NEIPA) in an attempt to redeem myself from the last time when my NEIPA oxidized, since I bottled it. Wielding kegs this time and building on lessons learned from the last recipe, I succeeded this time. This particular NEIPA came out wonderfully, with a creamy mouthfeel, high drinkability and loads of orange, tropical, and citrus hops flavor. While it wasn't 100% safe from oxygen during the ENTIRE process, I minimized exposure by keeping my dry hop additions quick and by flushing the keg with CO2 as much as possible before transferring. I'm happy to report this didn't oxidize at all for at least the 6 weeks this was in the keg.
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The recipe for 5.5 gallons is below, your efficiency may vary:
"Smaht Pahk"
7.2% ABV 57 IBU
14 lb Pilsner (76.7%)
1.25 lb Flaked Oats (6.8%)
1.25 lb Flaked Wheat (6.8%)
1.25 lb White Wheat (6.8%)
0.5 lb Crystal 10L (2.7%)
Single Infusion Mash for 60 min at 150 F (65 C)
Water (ppm): Ca: 119 Mg: 11, Na: 65 SO4: 118, Cl: 227, HCO3: 36
60 minute boil:
No hops added during boil
40 min whirlpool at 180 F (82 C)
40 min - 0.5 oz (14 g) each of Mosaic (10.8% AA), Citra (12.8% AA), and El Dorado (15.1% AA)
30 min - 0.5 oz (14 g) each of Mosaic, Citra and El Dorado
20 min - 0.7 oz (20 g) each of Mosaic, Citra and El Dorado
OG: 1.066
1 package Imperial A38 "Juice"
Ferment 68-70 (20-22 C) for 10-12 days, dry hopping twice:
-1st Dry Hop - Days 3-11 - 0.5 oz each (14 g) Citra, Mosaic and El Dorado
-2nd Dry Hop - Days 7-11 - 1 oz each (28 g) Citra, Mosaic and El Dorado
Remove dry hops on day 11
FG: 1.012
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0:00 Intro and Welcome
0:15 Style Description and Approach
5:17 Recipe
9:26 Mash and Lauter
14:13 Boil and Whirlpool
17:43 Fermentation Plan and Yeast Pitch
21:29 Dry Hop
23:39 Fermentation Follow-Up
25:27 Pour and Tasting Notes
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#NEIPA #juicy #hazy 
Хобби
Great video with your brewing technique. The neipa turned out amazing
Cheers Steve
Glad you liked it! I'm really happy I got to share some brews with you. That was a good time!
You’re doing gods work by giving us distilled water profile measurements for styles. Thank you!
Just discovered this channel and the content is awesome! This guy is really good at explaining the technical stuff without sounding pretentious! Good stuff keep it coming !
Thank you so much! I appreciate the kind words and I'm glad you're enjoying the content!
That color alone, mercy. Great video!
Nice video. I am enjoying your content. Keep it up. I will definitely brew this recipe.
especially the calculations were extremely helpful. Thank you for all the insights!
Anytime!
Hey thanks for the video. Always informational. I plan to brew this beer. I just got myself a counterflow chiller and I look forward to experimenting with the different hop flavour I will get from doing a flame out no chill addition vs a whirlpool
This was super enjoyable to watch, I love brewing so much! I just got done doing a NEIPA recipe on beersmith(an amazing program) and I look forward to brewing it in near future. I've never brewed one, a lot of different detail to them for sure! Your content is amazing bro! love the information! cheers!
Thanks for the kind words!! Hope your brew goes well, they are tough but also a lot of fun! Cheers and happy brewing!
Agree! Took me a while but you totally can with direct transfer and a keg! And can even make a great one!! I personally do ~15ibu 30min, rest whirlpool at ~170. Dry hop only fresh hops. Great video!
That is my favorite NEIPA yeast. I rinsed it and used it in a cream ale I brewed two weeks later and it was wonderful. Thanks for the video. Cheers!
Glad you enjoyed it! Imperial has some great options for NEIPA yeasts. Juice is great, dry hop does a fantastic job as well, I have yet to try out barbarian but I'll probably save it for a heady topper clone
Followed your grain bill only thing I changed was the hops mosaic simcoe and citra. This was by far the best NEIPA I have ever made. SG 1.072 FG 1.015 7.5 % ABV its a hop bomb! Did a 10 gallon batch one keg has already kicked...FYI I didn’t cold crash. Thanks for the great videos.
Your content is super cool and informational! I love it
Thanks Renee! Glad you're enjoying it!
Hey! I did my first home brew following your recipe and it turned out so awesome. Everyone is super impressed with my brew skills but I always tell them where I got it from. Thanks for the video, you did a great job explaining all the little details and tips for a first time brewer. Keep it up! I am thinking of trying a double or triple hazy ipa next, and possibly experimenting with Nitro instead of C02. Thanks again!
That is so awesome!! Congratulations! I'm honored you used my recipe and I'm really happy it turned out well for you. Thanks for letting me know!
Thanks for the video. Watching it as I'm brewing an Irish Red. Cheers!
Cheers! Hope the irish red turns out great!
Looks great! That color is perfect for what I like my NEIPAs to be. You can also mash higher (156ish range) to improve body even further and leave some residual sweetness in there if it were to need it. Your dry-hop rate (and getting good results with it) was also refreshing haha I’ve seen so many people dry-hopping at >2 oz/gallon. And agreed on the transfer and kegging conversation. Purging the keg and gently transferring helps tremendously. Once it’s in the keg, you’re good to go. I’ve never had an oxidation issue that way. With that being said, I now have closed transfers capabilities and am looking forward to seeing if it makes any difference with this style. Cheers!
Thanks!! I'm interested to see of mashing higher would make a big difference. To be honest I think the level of sweetness/body left by the flaked grains was enough but it would be fun to push that a bit. I'm with you on the dry hopping rates, there would be no beer left if I went higher! Hopefully your closed transfer system is working out well and making it easier, I'm happy to say this beer isn't showing any signs of age any time soon. Cheers!
Awesome video! Great job with the beer. I had a similar problem with oxidation when I bottled. Never got real bad in the 3 or 4 weeks that it took to drink the beer, but it was noticeably more oxidized than anything else that I’ve ever bottled.
Thanks! My bottled version definitely suffered from oxidization as well. Its by far the most delicate style of beer I can think of when it comes to that. Cheers!
Just bought my grains and hops for this same type of beer the other day. Same hops combo ,and same grain bill minus the crystal. I'm waiting on my local brew supply place to get white labs yeast back in stock. They don't carry imperial, but I think I'm gonna order some now that you think it's made a difference. Deffinatly a happy surprise seeing your video pop up this morning, and it being pretty much the same recipe. Great video. Thanks ,and cheers.
That is awesome!! Well glad to see you are gonna take a crack at it, it's well worth it. Just be careful about the oxygen thing!
Just discovered your channel, I'm impressed. Thanks. 👍🇦🇺
Thanks! I'm glad you're enjoying the content!
Solid video and good technique man. Bravo. One thing I do to further minimize O2 is I keg at 6-7 days and add my second dry hop in a stainless dry hop tube in the keg. This lets it finish the last few points in the keg further scrubbing any possible O2. No oxidation so far in several hazys.
Thanks! Interesting technique as well, I think its awesome how many different O2 reducing techniques everyone has commented on this video with. All good ideas. Cheers!
Great channel! Glad I found it!
Great video, thanks - well done on the color!
Thank you!
This came out beautifully from the looks and sounds of it
Thanks!
Was wondering where that creaminess from the hazy ipa's came from. Learned alot! Thanks man for the video. Gonna have to try this recipe.
Awesome, I'm glad you did! If you end up brewing this let me know if you have questions, cheers!
That looks great dude.
A very good and informative beer video. I do like NEW ENGLAND JUICE BOMBS, or NEIPA. I never seen ElDorado hops in NEIPA. you said 15 IBU in this recipe,but its labeled 57 IBU, oh yes I bet its good. Cheers !
Looks fantastic. Hoping to brew this style soon although my next step is to build a keezer. Cheers from another appartment brewer!
Thanks! A keezer is a lot of fun to build!
I see that glenfiddich in the background. Excellent taste in scotch. The 14 is probably my favorite whisky I've had so far.
Just got into brewing and put down my first brew last weekend. I followed this recipe and this video was an awesome guide. I substituted El Dorado for Simcoe and used 2 sachets of US05 yeast so fingers cross it turns out as well as yours! Only issue so far is that fermentation is very active and had to swap my 'S' bend airlock for an overflow tube into a bucket of sanitized water... nearly ready to add my first dry hop addition. Can't wait to try it!
How was it?
Yeah how was it bro
How was it?
Mosaic also sometimes lends to an onion flavor. I also use mosaic and citra but use simcoe instead of El Dorado.
Maybe it's the way it interacted with the yeast during mid-fermentation dry hopping? Mosaic is one of my favorite hops and I haven't noticed that type of flavor, but simcoe definitely would work in this kind of capacity as well. Cheers!
Excellent! I got lucky and my NEIPA bottled without issue.
Awesome!! I'm glad you're able to get it to work in bottles. Anything in particular you did that made you succeed?
Great Video
+1 for the Orient Mako watch. Nice Watch, and great video!
Thanks! Good eye haha it's one of my favorites
@@TheApartmentBrewer it is one of my favorites as well! Keep up the good work, really enjoyed the video!
Really, really enjoyed this one. I would never normally think to brew this style, but I've just done a Citra SMaSH with extra pale Maris Otter and Wyeast 1056, which I'm about to filter. It's so pale and without the (extremely low flocculation, apparently) yeast will be super clear. I need something like this to compliment it as I finish my keezer build
Nice! That's probably a fantastic beer, great hop and malt selection
Awesome job! I need to make this. Haven't done any dry hopping yet. I have small hop bags and may try using magnets on the lid (one in the bag on the underside and a magnet on the top). When time comes to dry hop pull the magnet and the bag drops into wort. This will help me avoid oxidation 🤞...chris
That's a really creative idea! May have to try that some time, those would be serious magnets. Hope it works out!
if you dry hop while fermentation is still going on, the yeast will take care of the oxygen for you!
New subscriber here - enjoyed the video!
One trick I have learned over the last year or so about staving off cold side oxidation is to add a bit of sodium or potassium metabisulfite (aka Camden tablets) into the keg before you transfer into it. The sulfites will scrub out oxygen and can help stabilize the beer.
.3 grams is enough to dose a 5 gal keg, so it's dirt cheap insurance.
I heard about it on Brulosophy and started doing it, and my beers improved quite a bit. I'm pretty sure I was oxidizing them somehow during transfer... But this seems to help correct that. I'd love a pressurized fermenter, but I can't afford that and honestly have no room for one.
Anyway, just something to maybe play with in the future.
Cheers!🍻
That's actually a very interesting technique that I dont think I've heard of being used in beer before. I know winemakers will use campden tablets to halt fermentation and clarify their wines but never considered it in beer. Just be careful nobody sensitive to sulfites drinks the beer! I may have to try this.
@@TheApartmentBrewer Definitely worth a Look! I haven't seen any effect on clarity, but I've definitely noticed a difference in the "freshness" of the beer. Hop character seems to stay longer, and no more sweet candy oxidation flavors. I obviously try to avoid as much oxygen as possible in other ways (i.e. racking into a closed, purged keg through the liquid out post, dry hopping in the keg vs fermenter, etc), but this seems to have helped catch whatever was sneaking by. 😊
I've heard that Vitamin-C powder does similar things (oxygen scrubber) and is a bit more appealing than a sulfite. 1 g/gal dose when you dry hop.
We've had success bottle conditioning NEIPAs by purging the headspace of the bottles with CO2. From my experience that was the biggest culprit. Our technique is more elaborate now, bottling straight from a pressurized Spike Flex with a Blichmann beergun, but it worked fine in our old days of just using a CO2 tank and purging with the hose right before capping. Might as well keg if you can, but if you're like us and have no space for a kegerator and have to split your beers between households, it works remarkably well.
That's kind of a unique situation, but the beergun is a good thing to have! How's the spike fermenter been working for you?
@@TheApartmentBrewer The spike's been great for what we needed it for: The ability to pressurize to help with cold crashes, CO2 purging the dry-hop, and bottling straight off the fermenter. I do like the cone bottom and rotatable racking arm, and the fact that everything is triclamps. One day we'll experiment with using it as a unitank to carbonate. It's a great tool, but you can do a lot with a PET carboy with carboy hood and some CO2 for less $$$.
Phenomenal content
Thank you!
Sweet! I have a 3.5 gallon batch of NEIPA waiting to be kegged as we speak. I'l be my first shot at kegging and I'll try your suggestion to get some CO2 in there first
Awesome video, do you use a force carb stone set up or do the old school method of rocking back and forth at 40 psi?
A suggestion when kegging to reduce oxidation: hook a gas line up to your keg and while filling it, stick the end of the gas hose into the fermentor lid airlock grommet. I've done this many times and it gives you a reasonably closed transfer.
Over the past few days I think I've come up with an idea for a bucket closed transfer that just may work, and it incorporates some if the concept you suggest here. Waiting on disconnects to arrive in the mail and we will test it out kegging my latest beer.
That's what I do. Works great.
Looks great mate! Juicy bits? I just did a NEIPA with mosaic and jester and Hornindal. Almost the same grain bill as yours, skål bud, thanks for yet another upload 🍺
Haha oh yeah, you are right on. It's just such a good combo. I bet the kviek yeast would work very well with it, it's on my to do list. I'm planning on doing a New England style DIPA wirh hornindal soon I think. Cheers!
I am doing a lot of research into home (apartment) brewing, so thanks so much for putting in the time and effort in more than adequate detail on your process! helpful for sure.
I am looking at the Brewer's Edge Mash & Boil (electric) for my kettle; it looks as though you use stovetop. If so, how does it work for you with that quantity?
While I don't use compact systems like that, they can be extremely practical. I like the setup I have because it gives me more involvement with my brews, but the all in one systems are very good at what they do.
I’m pretty sure I just saw you at Jaspers. Cheers! Great vid!
YES!! That was me haha, were you the guy buying kegs or the one by the grain mill? I get all my stuff there, great shop.
@@TheApartmentBrewer thumbs up for Jaspers from another local viewer
Great video, learned loads! Are the magnets you use food safe?
I haven't brewed one yet, but see Genus Brewing video on 'Why you should bottle condition your hazy".... different theory. I'll have to try both.
Yes, I've actually seen that and they raise good points, but you need to either fill the bottle such that there is no headspace at all, or condition with some sort of oxygen absorbing chemical, both of which aren't within reach of most homebrewers. Genus brewing has fantastic content though that I go to for advice frequently!
wow just had this channel come up but these are easy as feck to do and bottle but I'm having a problem with pale ales coming out to sweet and find i have to add hop teas when I bulk prime to correct I suppose we all have styles we struggle with
Do a co2 closed transfer and purge your bottles. Highly recommend your next brewing item you buy is a better fermenter (look up the brewdemon conical fermenter on amazon, 45 bucks). With a closed transfer and controlled temperature your beer skyrockets in quality, especially with NEIPA!
A better fermenter has always been on the list, but I love what I have - and it works! Ive never had an issue. However I will check out that conical, looks interesting 🤔 cheers!
Kveik! Hits FG in 60 hours , dry hop 3 days and " sparge" the hopssack on out with boiling water at priming stage . Whole show is getting bottled on day 6 or 7 , it bbn bottle carbonates in 3-4 days and you drink the lot in 2 weeks tops.
Kveik is the best!
As usual really enjoy your video’s. If you don’t mind can you provide a detailed procedure for a “whirlpool” procedure. I do not have a recirculating system. Do I create a whirlpool manually with a spoon during the hop additions? Temperature? Etc. thanks so much.
So the term whirlpool can to an extent be used interchangeably with hop stand. Meaning you don't necessarily need a physical swirling motion in your kettle. Yes you can do it with a spoon, you will gain all the same benefits but you will quickly lose temperature which may work against you. Ideally you keep the hops in for 20-40 min with a temperature range of 160-180 F. The benefits of the physical whirlpool include keeping kettle trub in the center of the kettle so you have less pickup and having more wort interaction with your hops. You can still get the same effect from a nonrecirculated hop stand though, it just may not be as dramatic.
@24:00 you can always use another keg to ferment in (you can get attachments for airlocks) and pressure transfer to a second keg via a jack from both beer outs, its nice cause you can also cold crash in the keg under positive pressure to avoid oxygen suckback
That's true, another method I didn't think of, but does that involve having less than 5 gal of beer at the end of the process, since there will be trub/krausen in the fermentation keg?
@@TheApartmentBrewer it does, that's the biggest downside. Some people just use 2 kegs for a 5 gal batch, that can still be cheaper then a stainless pressure fermenter. All you need to do to convert a keg to a fermenter is cut the dip tube a few inches to be above the trub and add a gas disconnect with a tube going into a jar of starsan. Could be a pain with multiple dry hop additions having to split them up so its not perfect
Actually if I was to do it again I would not even cut the dip tubes I would just get an extra blow off tube that you can use to drain of the trub before transfering to avoid leaving any below the tube
That's a good technique, thanks for sharing. I'll have to look into it some time in the future, because it is definitely cheaper than a stainless fermenter while retaining the same concept. Cheers!
Question: With the White Wheat, did you have it crushed or was it flaked White Wheat?
Love your channel!
Looking forward to watching more of your videos! Brewing on a New Clawhammer system, was an old timer 3 vessel system all grain brewer, and now...I am back in the game using that BIB system!
With a recipe that complex, I would not have the balls to do it. I would seriously just do extract. Maybe I'm just an inexperienced brewer. Im just starting out and learning about everything. But I do give u credit for going all grain and not worrying about failing a batch
Thanks for the kind words, but never be afraid to try something because you don't have a lot of experience. Trying it out is the best way to learn!
Great stuff. Is that a Lamplighter glass I spotted? Began watching as I've had issues with oxidation among other things when bottling my NEIPAs, and might have to spend some time building a keg system out given the difficulties in getting that right...
Yes!! Good eye. One of my favorites. Go for the kegs, it's worth it!
Sure can....I do Erryy' freeken weeken !!
When you wish to purge your kegs completely of any oxygen, the easiest way to do it is to fill them up entirely with water or some cleaning solution and then push that all out with CO2. If you purge by pressurizing it multiple times and letting it degas in between there is no guarantee that all the oxygen is gone since the gasses form a perfect mixture during pressurizing. Give it a try! Its quite easy, probably will cut down your gas usage slightly and assures you of a 100% certain oxygen free environment.
Keep up the videos, and I hope I've helped you out somewhat! Kind regards from a Dutch brewer.
That's a method for sure. No, simply purging does get 100% of the oxygen out, but it was good enough for my purposes. Three weeks later, no color changes in this beer! Thanks for watching.
I'd never thought of that you're right. Because water is much heavier than CO2 it won't readily mix with the water as CO2 would with air in regular purging. CO2 is slightly heavier than air but will mix when agitated in the keg. Regular purging probably only gets rid of 90% of the air I would guess.
Thank you for this real helpful video! I have a question about the kegging part of it. I've never worked with C02 before, but I really want to get into it because it prevents oxidation so well. So I was wondering, when you fill your keg with C02 preemptively, is there a way besides looking at it of knowing when you've added enough C02? And also, when you then add your beer to it, is that a moment where you have to release C02? Or do you not have to worry about over pressuring the keg at that point? Im not sure what the point is where you have to start worrying about blowing the keg up 😉
You never really have to worry about overpressurizing a keg. They're rated to something like 150 PSI and your CO2 regulator will start venting well before you reach that pressure. I just eyeballed the inside of the keg to look for mist. Not the best method I'm afraid but it did work!
Calcium doesn't increase creaminess, afaik. It is more directly related to hardness of the water, along side of magnesium. Calcium rather improves your mash efficiency and decreases tannin extraction. Lack of it can increase haze due to oxalate salts precipitating. Calcium also helps with bittering compound extraction.
The beer looks beautiful though.
great video! Can you do one about your kegerator with the 4 taps, it looks like a diy i'm curious how you built it :)
Here you go: ruclips.net/video/n_12koj4XYs/видео.html
Man!!!! Great video, I currently have in my fermenter a mango milkshake IPA. If you’re curious, google Mango Maya milkshake IPA. Apparently he won Stones brew contest, hope it comes out. Love the channel man, keep it coming 👍🏻👍🏻
Oh I replaced the citra hops with Sabro. Can’t wait to see what happens 👍🏻
Awesome! I dont know how I feel about the milkshake IPAs haha but it's awesome to see that people can make them! Cheers, and let us know about the Sabro too!
If someone already mentioned this I apologize, but in the video you said 15 IBUs but it was listed on screen as 57. Which one was it? Also, I completely agree with the lighter side of carbonation for NEIPAs. Looks delicious!
Yeah, I slipped up since my 15 IBU hefeweizen was on tap next to this one. It is 57 IBUs, not 15!
I have done an NEIPA and a Double NEIPA. The issue with these is you have to drink it fast LOL. Both came out hazy and juicy. I used all kinds of hops for each batch. Your setup is more elaborate than mine. I use a turkey fryer pot and mesh bag.
Proof that you can still pull off this style without high end equipment! I love it!
@@TheApartmentBrewer Did you keg this in a 5 gallon keg?
Yup!
Hey, how you doing. If you want to not mess with potentially exposing the beer to air at the 3rd day and thus avoid dry hopping all together, can you instead make those hop addition may be as late boil addition or the whirlpool? Well, I guess the question is if not dry hopping, how would you alter the hop additions ? and if you think dry addition is particularly important for this IPA then why ? Nevertheless the content that you put out is incredible!!
Hey man quick question. When you start whirl pooling did you turn your burner on to keep it at 180 or just let the temp drop a little during the 40 minutes?
I kept a medium low heat on underneath but there will probably be a bit of temp drop. That's ok though, you'll be averaging it out over the multiple whirlpool additions anyway
Cool stuff! Did you end up cold crashing before racking into the keg? Looking around i see that that has a possibility of oxidizing the beer. If so for how long?
Nope, I just went straight from fermenter to keg. Cold crashing also really only is useful for clarifying the beer, which we definitely wanted to avoid here. Cheers!
One thing I've heard tossed around that might help out with the oxidation is ascorbic acid!
Can confirm that it does, it worked like a charm in a different NEIPA I made after this
20:20 i think your going to need a blow off tube
21:29 yep i think you needed a blow off tube 😂
Good looking beer and thanks for the recipe. Also, I would look into a dry hop sock, much easier way of dry hopping than the bag your using. Most brew shops sell them for about $3 😉
cheers 👍
Hahaha yeah I may have walked away from it for a bit too long 😂 but it still worked out. Yeah a small hop sock would have made things easier, but I'm just making do with what I have. Cheers!
When did you at your water salts? Was it before you heated your strike water or when it reached temp? Also is it ok to use distilled water then add salts to it?
I added the salts as I was heating water before the mash. You can start from distilled if you want, but you'll want to build your own water profile based on that instead of trying to hit the ppms I did. You'll want roughly 150 rpm calcium, and 2:1 sulfates to chlorides.
I have a NEIPA in the fermenter now, was waiting for my regulator to arrive so I could keg it vs bottling it, I am so worried about oxidization in the transfer lol I wasn't even sure I should dry hop so I skipped it this time but I will be making another one soon, I do hope to get a pressure fermenter though so I can do a no o2 transfer. I will let you know how well or not well it turns out lol
Best of luck!!
I always enjoy and learn from your video’s. Regarding Pilsner Malt with that much in the recipe in the past you recommended a 90 minute boil due to DMS issues. You did a 60 minute boil apparently with no DMS issues. Just your thoughts on that? Appreciate it. Thank you
It's a fair question since there seems to be a lot of disagreement in the homebrew community about that subject. I used to do a 90 minute boil quite religiously when using pils malt but now I've found most modern malt available to homebrewers is much higher quality than it used to be, making it less likely to generate DMS. in fact I just tasted a helles I made with a gentle 60 min boil with the lid cracked and it was fine.
@@TheApartmentBrewer thank you appreciate the reply. Did you play hockey at Union? I live near Quinnipiac and went to many of their hockey games including against Union. You wear the shirt a lot just wondering. Thanks so much will try to brew some of your recipes. Cheers!
No problem! Nah but I was a frequent attendee of the games (I went to college there)
As someone who works at a professional brewery and homebrews NEIPAs you cannot make these using plastic buckets. to minimize O2 exposure use a glass carboy and closed system CO2 transfers. its pretty cheap. Jason from Hops and Barley TV has a good video showing how to do this.
Sure, glass is less oxygen permeable but I have to disagree - you can absolutely do it with a plastic bucket as long as you are careful. Unless you're accusing me of lying about this beer, this method when used with kegs resulted in a very pale, juicy, aromatic true to style NEIPA that stayed fresh for 5 weeks. I dont at all believe that you MUST use certain equipment to make a certain beer at all. Are we really homebrewing if we're not pushing the boundaries of convention?
As a new all grain biab brewer, i dont really get it why you go from one kettle to the other then back? Why not only sparge the bag in the same kettle?
Do you ever C02 or nitrogen purge your fermenters?
I don't like having to worry about oxidation, so purging is the standard for me. I just modified my buckets to accept a ball valve on top.
All the time!
Great job! Beer looks fantastic. Quick question did you cold crash the beer? Thanks.
Don't quite remember, but I don't think I did - dont want oxygen suckback
Didn’t cold crash and beer didn’t oxidized but did get all sorts of yeast at the bottom of the keg. Fantastic beer thanks for the videos.
tagay!
How are you liking the 120v claw hammer system? I'm torn between that and the anvil foundry (which I can't get right now because of back order).
So far I've been impressed. It holds a lot of grain, and all the parts are modular, so if something breaks its easier to replace components vs the whole system. My chief complaints are that like any 120V system it takes ages to heat the water and the grain basket can be difficult to clean
@@TheApartmentBrewer yeah I know eventually heating using 120v is going to drive me crazy, that's why I like the foundry's option to delay heat.
Can you tell how you keep the opacity in the beer ? With my friend we make a Pacific ale and the opacity stay only 5 days, and we put the beer directly into barrel because we want an cloudy beer.
Your best bet for stable haze is to ensure a high protein grain bill: lots of flaked grains such as oats and wheat. You can also dry hop heavily with southern hemisphere hops for a lot of polyphenols (hop haze) in the beer. Hope that helps!
@@TheApartmentBrewer thank you so much
My understanding is NEIPA is a required Keg beer, correct? Currently bottling exclusively, but would love to make one of these. Had my first NEIPA in NY last week from two roads brewery called two juicy. It was amazing.
Doesn't need to be kegged, but if bottling try to do everything you can to keep oxygen out of that bottle.
just curious, why not use smaller pot for mashing and then collect wort in to the large pot for boil?
I could probably do it but that smaller pot is very thin walled and loses heat quickly, so it doesnt make a very good mash tun.
@@TheApartmentBrewer can buy a small roll of reflective insulation, wrap a couple of times, did that myself, makes a difference
Weird question but what kind of lav mic do you use?
I'm gonna be honest I dont know because it was 10 dollars on Amazon haha, I use it in combination with a zoom H1, but in that one clip it got unplugged.
Bira çok davetkar ve güzel görünüyor.Orada olmadığım için çok üzgünüm :)
Beginning brewer here. I didn’t see any milling of the barley. Did you mill? Btw, awesome movie!
I use the mill at my local homebrew shop. However you don't have to mill flaked grains
Thanks!
So this is what Drew Stafford is doing in retirement!
Given that you do BIAB with proper sparging (as opposed to full-volume mashing) if you have a target pre-boil gravity in mind then how do you know it's time to start sparging? E.g. for a target pre-boil gravity of 1.055 can you know to stop at 1.0XX because Y litres of sparge water will get you there?
I'm also relieved to see you adding so much Calcium Chloride and it producing a great-tasting beer, I will need to add a similar amount and was worried it would be too much of one salt.
Well, I wouldn't say I really do BIAB, since I really just use the bag to keep my grain in one place and make cleanup easier. Yeah, it's not really that precise, but I sparge for volume and not for gravity. I have my method dialed in and adjust my beersmith recipes accordingly. I take all of my first runnings and pretty much every time I only need about 2.5-3 gallons of sparging to get to my target preboil volume at my target gravity +/- a few points. I find that mash efficiency is a much greater variable with various grain bills than sparge efficiency, so I just go for volume. If I'm really worried about hitting a particular OG, and I need to make up or lose some gravity points, I'll just adjust the boil length since I have a fixed boil off rate and always make more wort than I need to put in the fermenter. Hope that makes sense!
@@TheApartmentBrewer it does indeed, appreciate the explanation 👍
Just curious what brewery you base your yeast set after
Brewers yeast comes from yeast labs, such as Imperial Yeast, that sell directly to professional brewers and hoembrew supply stores alike. I pick whatever yeast I want to use from my homebrew shop
I use Azacca,CItra,Ekuanot,Mosaic in my NEIPA and Juice is an excellent yeast!
That sounds like an awesome combination! I have yet to play with azacca. Cheers!
Janish's book indicates flaked oats may increase risk oxidation due to the higher levels of manganese. He suggests chit malt for body.
Interesting idea, although I cant say I've seen chit malt in my area. High beta glucan content, almost unmalted barley, right?
@@TheApartmentBrewer Yep. Seems to be harder to find chit malt (barely malted barley). Pretty sure he mentions that using malted vs. flaked oats reduces the manganese content as well.
Did you cold crash this before kegging?
Hi! Please can you say me what is you Water profile? Thanks!! Saludos desde Argentina🇦🇷
How did you force carb?? Thanks
Just keep the keg under about 30 PSI of pressure for about 36 hours and at about 35 degrees F.
Dig your channel, I’m attempting a very hazy NEIPA. Still debating wether to add purée to the brew once I keg it. Your thoughts?
What kind of puree are you thinking of adding? Fruit could be an interesting addition, maybe mango or citrus?
TheApartmentBrewer it’s a mango and pineapple purée.
That sounds like it would be awesome!
Congrats! I have been struggling for 5 times in a row. Managed not to get the muddy colour, managed to get the pillowy mouthfeel but I am loosing ugly with aroma fading. I do enclosed transfer from fermenter to my keg but it is always already poor in aroma by that time (even with 7g/litre whirlpool addition and 8 g/litre split in 2 dry hop additions). I do the dryhop addition by the end of fermentation and used biotransformation yeast (with proper enzime for that: Lallemand East Coast). Any clues?
These are tough problems! You said you dry hop at the end of fermentation, try a few days earlier to get more engagement with the yeast. Also what's your water chemistry look like?
@@TheApartmentBrewer I will try earlier on the fermentation. Water chemestry (ppm): Calcium 120; Manganese 17; Sodium 11; Sulphate 61; Chloride 180. I have read that plastic buckets will not halp, but you managed to get fresh strong aroma w/ bucket and not enclosed transfer!!!
Congrats
Your water seems right on target. Also curious what types of hops you are using (I assume they're similar as well)
@@TheApartmentBrewer Mosaic, Citra and Simcoe (partly regular pellets and also Cryo). I guess Ill try to make all of DH during fermentation even if CO2 scrubs some aroma away, its a test against O2 effect. Thanks!
@@wilsonneto8939 hmmm, I'm not sure then. Those are all high alpha hops that should be bursting with aroma. Its possible it could be O2 related, but then you would have a color change as well. Could always up the dry hopping rate even more! I seriously hope it works out for you, the point of homebrewing is to be able to brew your favorite kind of beer. Keep it up, take detailed notes and keep improving!
I would switch out the el dorado with galaxy or simcoe garlic would spoil it for me.
Que levadura se uso para fermentación?
Imperial A38 “juicy”
Do you cold crash your NEIPAs?
Ok I checked the description but didn't see the outcome re: oxidation - did it last without oxidizing??
I didn't update because it didn't oxidize rapidly this time. It was fresh and brightly colored for at least 4 weeks, ran out of beer shortly after that!
@@TheApartmentBrewer fantastic! I'm going to use your pressure bucket setup when I do my first NEIPA
Awesome! I hope it works well for you!
If there's no hops in the boil why boil? My Sahti and Banana beers required no boil, the hops were in the mash instead of after. I know why hops added for sparge and ferment on the IPA.
I getting a rough finish on my neipas. Almost chalky is maybe how I would describe it. But all my heavily hopped beers have it. Any suggestions?
How much calcium salts are you adding? Sometimes that can be a factor. However if all your heavily hopped beers have it it might be a type of hop burn. Does it taste tannic at first but fade with time?
TheApartmentBrewer I’m not sure what tannic tastes like. Basically I get kinda chalky flavor. I used to get bad hopburn then I started cold crashing. This last brew (5gallons) I put 1lb it hops in at whirlpool. No dry hop but a 3 day cold crash. I can finally get the big flavor up front but there is definitely a chalkyness(?)
Tannic is like a harsh, dry bitterness. The classic example is sucking on a teabag. Usually you get it at the back and sides of your tongue. Glad to hear you've had good success with the cold crashing though! Did you add water chemistry additions? Might be from the water. Good news is I'm 99% sure it will age out with time
TheApartmentBrewer any suggestions on how to get rid of tannic? Maybe that’s what I’m experiencing
With that, your best bet is age and cold temperatures
what yeast did you use?
excellent video friend
Imperial A38 Juice yeast
@@TheApartmentBrewer muchas gracias
I can't find the recipe in the comments section?
Recipe is in the description box, not the comments
Just kegged my 1st NEIPA from an extract kit my brew store put together and so far it's not tasting what I was aiming for. Another 3-5 days in the keg then we'll see what it tastes like again.
Hopefully it improves for you, what's missing in flavor?
@@TheApartmentBrewer the citrusy flavor and smell, it's very mild so far.
@@AllenDrewesBuilds could be related to dry hopping and what your post boil hop schedule was like, or the hop varieties. Could always dry hop in the keg for a boost!
@@TheApartmentBrewer I will do that if needed. I'm impatient!!
@@TheApartmentBrewer I'll make a decision this weekend to add hops. My brew shop guy is or has been pretty good. All grain may make a difference too, this one was extract but honing my brewing luck.