Paul I made a mold for lead Ferrule ends using a large bolt drilling 1/4 hole through Cut a slot in the bolt for the cable put a 1/4 inch rod in the bolt as depth stop I clamp the rod in my vise make the end of the cable bushy slide it down in the bolt pre heat the bolt Melt lead into the hole as it cools tamp or press the led to compact it use the rod to push it out and file it clean It works perfect every time Make the cable bushy or flared open helps it from sliding off It’s possible to do round balls this way as well by concaving two rods the size of the ball you want and tamping with hammer While led is hot it just takes practice
A general trick is Bar of soap wiped on the area to bend when your heating alloys, when it turns black it's hot enough to bend, do a little at a time........amazing videos and an education, thanks for all of them......
I have one of those old discontinued Makita die grinders too. It is my favorite tool. I found knockoffs on eBay that buzz but are the same shape, for cheap. Now with three of them, I can keep bits in them instead of stopping and disassembling the tool to change bits.
Thanks, interesting stuff again! I have learned to live with the stainless throttle cables. They can be TIG-welded! Take couple of mm excess cable trough a stainless steel ferrule and give a quick fusion weld with low Amps. Hi-carbon steel cables can harden too brittle in the cooling process, but the stainless cable has worked fine for me.
@@paulbrodie You can also try TIG fusion to keep bicycle cable tails from fraying. I have used like 10Amps or less for this operation and it takes only a fraction of a second to weld!
6:50 A couple little machinists jacks or adjustable parallels would help a lot here. You could move them around next to where where you're drilling and get some support.
Excellent work Paul loving this series mate. And finally I saw what you have in your aviary. I thought you had Reveves pheasants but mate your peacock's are wonderful. Cheers from Australia
Thank you for showing us your great work! There are materials available for soldering cables with stainless inner cables. Greetings from the cold northern germany :-)
Hello Germany! Yes, I'm sure that there are soldering materials for s/s cable, but I've never had a rusty throttle cable, so don't see the need to use s/s. Thanks for watching!
First Amal carb with remote needle was the Amal RN. After that was the Amal GP. Have also some Dellorto SSI carbs at home but I like the amal better.Italian bikes need Dellorto SSI.
I've found that is worth breaking out the little Oxy gas axe. Cuts the cable nicely but leaves a little nubbin on the end. If you have remembered to fit a ferrule, tiny bit of flux and silver solder time. One heat operation.
I used to put a needle bearung in the Backplate so it can rotate on a bushing on the Axle and then hitch the Torque Stay to the Frame using Rose Joints, this reduces rear Wheel hop under braking and also looks cool being paralell to the Swingarm.
Wish I had this video available to me last week when I had to make a brake cable. I used the casting method where I drilled a hole in a block of wood, inserted my scored and fluxed cable end into the hole, and cast the new end by filling the hole with molten solder. I really like your method better Paul. Thanks for the education!!!
You should try lead for your casting. I use discarded wheel weights and a propane torch. A steel shot glass makes a good crucible and it sounds like you already have a mold.
Wow.ypur a genius 👏 so.happy.ypu make these videos . I just picked up a 1973 z90 harley davidson.. it's a project bike if.this bike was in your shop.it.would. be running in no time
When I was in high school modifying my Hodaka dirt bike, I made a torque stay for the rear brake and drilled it full of holes. When I rode it in the UBC trails, it snapped (with a Big Bang) and the brake rod wrapped around the axle. Yes, the holes were pretty big, but I always remember that, and tend not to drill holes in torque stays...
@@paulbrodie My Hodaka, an Ace 90, didn't stay running long enough for me to modify it. I did tear it apart on the workbench a lot. It had some clever engineering
@@PatFarrellKTM I did everything to my Hodaka: hi-comp head, reed valve, larger carb, expansion chamber, Filtron air filter, and then I ported it to magazine specs. When I finished it was slower than an Ace 100.
Hey mate thanks for your show I really enjoy and appreciate the way you present it. As a lifelong motorcycle enthusiast and a person with learning difficulties I’m a very hands on person. I’m presently building my first racer Suzuki SP370 for period 5 road racing. I learned a little about Aermacchi back in the 90’s and have also had the privilege of meeting a man involved with the “Linto” bikes.although a jigsaw puzzle of an AJS 7R is the motivation I found your program looking to find ways to emulate the performance of the Aermacchi. I watch you and gain the confidence to work with my limited experience , money and home workshop. The Vincent chat also helps me not to get upset when the plan doesn’t work. Thanks bud!! I’m improving my tools and have never been so excited about it either. Numbers are an issue for me but you teach me how to make a better finish and a safer part. Please talk about the length of the inlet manifold ( induction) when it’s time to tune. Have a great day!!
Thank you for liking our channel. Sounds like you have some great projects. Nothing wrong with being a hands on person. I think the world needs more. I believe the intake manifold length is 100mm along the centreline of the tube.
Not sure if already mentioned by another subscriber but…..stainless cable is easily soldered using the specific liquid flux made for that purpose. I used to do it all the time in a former life 😁
A bearing seperator/puller can be used to remove gears from a shaft on the press in place of the aluminum parts Paul has made Of course a store bought tool isnt nearly as cool :) Great lessons as always thanks fellas!!
That nylon liner was a mistake? my first prosthetic supplier made. With soft liner and high pressure applied, the liner would get between the strands of the cable binding and breaking at the tightest radius. I WAS using many latex bands on the terminal device for extra grip... I only grease cables now ... That cable housing you're using is superior in that it won't stretch and act as a spring, very good for precise action with bicycle dérailleurs. The difficulty with the stainless steel cable soldering, is that true with silver solder as well? I'd say you DEFINITELY have an eye for fit and finish. Going to be a beautiful bike.👍👍👍
I don't think it would be easy to silver solder a stainless steel cable. I would never volunteer to do something like that. I do like making nice stuff. Thanks for watching!
Ah so wtf YT?!? I see Paul's video in my feed and I check my notifications and nothing there, so I think, hmm maybe I just haven't hit the bell...nope, get to the video and I'm not subbed anymore. Bloody YT must've glitched out so I encourage everyone to check.
There is a SS solder flux that works quite well on cables. Be sure to neutralize with water as it’s corrosive to brass parts. I get it from McMaster Carr and believe they do ship to businesses in Canada. Another good video👍🏼
Look for Sta-brite silver solder made by Harris. Usually can be found in better hobby shops, welding supply shops as well as McMaster-Carr in N. America at least. The acid flux should be neutralized afterwards, but may migrate along cable. Use sparingly... Fraying out the end of the cable is also a good idea. Cheers from Colorado
Uhhh I have tin side covers from a baloon bike to mold and now watching this I want to go to fibretek. LOL! I am going to do it in silicone so I getb a polished finish with CF maybe or kevlar mix. Great work, kevlar fabric around bolt holes can help with vibration cracking.
Love all the work and variety you did in this video, and Mitch's work. And your peacock. Who would know better how to pronounce a name than someone from that place itself? And you are a gentleman that learns from the people. You and Mitch should really be wearing a respirator whiled cutting fiberglass. That dust can mess up your lungs pretty bad. Take care of yourself, no matter how old you are. Are you able to tig braze the ends onto stainless steel cable? Thank you so much for telling us about dipping the brushes and rollers into acetone! That will be a great help (and would have been a great help) when working on my future composite projects. That is a simple and genius idea of using those bicycle curved housings for the carburetor. When you put the cable on, the first thing that came to my mind was; what if Paul brazed some of those cable guides (not sure if that's the proper name) onto the frame to keep the cable neat and tidy? Thank you Paul for all the expertise and knowledge you share on your channel. You and Mitch do a great job!
Regarding looking for the carburetor parts, I believe this is a Amal MK ll or Square Amal. I had a pair on my 1979 Bonneville and was able to source parts from Burak Bye products in California years ago. I believe he's still in business as a machine shop. I agree about the Amal performing better than the Mikuni, that was my experience also when doing carburetor conversions. Good luck.
The august 1991 issue of "Classic Bike" carries an article about its road race championship, the legendary Phil Read winning the 350 championship at the Oliver`s mount circuit in Scarborough ,north Yorkshire, riding Syd Lawton`s borrowed 350 Aerrrmacchi I know you weren`t born then Paul but I thought you may just find that interesting, its great watching the work you and mitch create, most enjoyable.👍
Drilling safety wire holes is very tricky, and hard to do well. I made a fixture for doing this. We'll see if it makes it onto the next video. Thanks for watching!
I had wondered about SIS sheath for throttle cables, no 'lost' movement or compression like you get with Bowden cables. I thought I was probably the only one crazy enough to be making custom nipples for cables but obviously I'm not. Did you have slide in backwards? It didn't seem to have any cutaway showing and wasn't fully opening. Throttle cables are easiest to make as cable sizes match bicycle brake cable and outer is easily available in various colours (although I think I made a mistake buying a bulk roll of yellow outer sheath, one Suzuki RM and one 'custom' Yamaha throttle cable later - a LOT left over) I've never tried it but a friend uses stainless cable, make stainless nipple and TIG weld or even just TIG end of cable to make a 'ball' I was taught to use 'soft soap' or dish soap on alloy, it turns brown then black around 400f which is usual annealing temp, seems to work on even Japanese casings. With the brake torque arm, run a ball mill down the length at about half thickness. It's overkill as weight reduction is tiny but does look 'cool'.
Throttle is working fine now. I miscalculated the cable length and it was too long, so it got shortened. No, the slide was not in backwards! SIS is the shifter cable in the bicycle world. No, you are not crazy for making custom nipples..
@@paulbrodie I first came across SIS cables about 25 years ago with Shimano. At the time I thought that was the only way to get them, pre-made length. Used to go mountain biking with a neighbour 10 years younger than me. almost 2000ft climb for first 2 miles of our loop but it do maker it fun coming home after 15~20 miles. Mountain biking worked out much cheaper than doing Enduro's on 120+ mph 490 Maico but was only sli8ghtly safer due to less protective equipment
Would it have worked to heat the fiberglass tank and try to straighten it? You could use the bench, or even reverse curve as a backing? Also, an oscillating saw works well on fiberglass and carbon with less safety concerns. Great job though!
Thank you Robert. I think someone else also suggested using heat to straighten the seat. I'm not sure that's the best way. Yes, a sabre saw will cut fiberglas, but the diamond wheel does a neater job with less "fraying".
@@paulbrodie www.harborfreight.com/variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63113.html Not a sabre saw, one of these. I used for prosthetic sockets for years, pretty clean cut and controllable
I bought an Autometer tach made by Pro Cycle. I've used them several times in the past, and they are "usually" trouble free. When the new tach arrives, and gets installed, you will see the wiring diagram.
I used to run a composites shop, and to correct the bowed front face of your seat you could warm it carefully with a heat gun, put a well fitting wood block inside against the bowed edge, and G clamp it to a flat surface till it cools, preferably overnight if you have the time. Ideally it's best if you can bow it slightly past what's required as it tends to shrink back slightly on cooling. I'm very much enjoying following the project, and greatly admire your high precision quality workmanship.
Did you ever consider mounting the brake torque arm to the frame so it pivots with the suspension movement? That used it be popular on the factory 80's MX rear discs and seemed to make sense as far as freeing up the suspension from the braking forces. Any thoughts Paul?
John, yes I used to read all those articles from way back then. And they do make some sense. On my little bike with such a small rear brake, I would not bother. With a good, strong front brake and the resultant weight transfer, there's not a lot of weight on the rear wheel under heavy braking. I think the floating rear brake sounds good in concept, but is not needed in the real world.
@@paulbrodie That makes sense, Paul. Hard not to get caught up in the cool engineering of ideas like that but I agree, a rear wheel with no weight on it under braking adds little stopping power. During my Westwood days the rear pads lasted all year and the fronts needed changing every 2 races! (RG500) Looking forward to your next video!
Could you lighten the torque stay by drilling or cutting opposing triangles forming like a lattice leaving say 10mm metal in between? Or would it weaken too much or not worth the effort for a few grams?
@@paulbrodie Ideal solution for racing, I teach machining/fabrication if you want the ally tank making email me and I will fabricate it for you. All the best James.
Well, The first Aermacchi race bike I built in 1999 weighed about 245 lbs. The second one built in 2001, had all the weight saving features that I'm doing here, and it weighed 221 lbs. Does that help you with those numbers? Thanks for liking our channel :)
As always, a most agreeable video, and timely, too. Thanks for the info on the bike cable housing types. I never knew the name of parallel-wire type. I have to repair my wife's front derailleur cable this week. Which brings me to a question -- I always was told that the cup on the end of the cable housing was the ferrule, and the knob on the end was the lug. Am I incorrect? On my wife's bike, some bright spark used a plastic ferrule (cup thingie) at the shifter, and the individual wires of the SIS cable punctured through both the plastic ferrule/cup, *and* the plastic threaded adjuster, locking the adjuster in position, and creating a nasty bunch of splayed-out, sharp wires. The SIS cable **really** needs a metal ferrule/cup! Also, I'm curious about your pronunciation and/or accent -- you sounds as if you could be from the North-Eastern US, although I have never met anyone from Vancouver (if I'm remembering correctly), so I have no means of comparison. Close, or way off base? :)
I would say a ferrule and a cable end. Lugs is usually found on older steel road bike frames. Yes, I would never use plastic ferrule, much prefer steel ferrules, for reasons you pointed out. I was born in the UK, moved to Vancouver when I was 9. Thanks for watching!
Another awesome video guys!, Paul you mentioned that this bike was going to be a bit more "shiny" than your last one, forgive me if my quote isn't bang on. Can you share any fit and finish plans with us? Are you breaking out the buffing wheel and compound or do you ever vapour blast anything?
All polishing by hand, no buffing wheel. I don't want that much shine. I use 80 grit, 180, 400, red Scotchbrite, and finally Autosol polish. I've made really paint perfect shiny bikes in years past, and they almost never get ridden, so I want a finish that is nice but not perfect if you look really close. I have bead blasted but never vapour blasted.
I'm surprised that's an AMAL carburetter on an Italian bike unless of course it's been retro-fitted. I've owned a 175 Bianchi Tonale/ Ducati Mk3 250/ and three Laverdas and all had DellOrtos.
I didn't actually make the sprocket, just bored out the middle and drilled the 6 holes. I probably saved a little $ by buying the blank, and because I'm fussy I like to think I did a better job with the bore and holes. Less slop.
As weight conscious as you are, I'm surprised you didn't use fiberglass cloth for the layers inside the exterior chopped strand mat (CSM) layer. Much better strength to weight ratio, but will show the pattern thru the paint, hence the reason for having an outer CSM layer.
@@paulbrodie I was referring to the new video when you were just straightening out the front end of the seat/fender that was removed from the mould early. I've done a fair amount of fiberglass racebike bodywork, so I'm not just an armchair "expert". Just an observation, and I'm loving the before and after weighing in this series.
I live in Mexico and I have an Aermacchi 250 RR Do you know where a could buy an motor used model 1976? I only have the transmition, thank Your attention.
Hello Mexico! It used to be that you could phone Leslie at Moto Italia in California and he likely could help. He retired last year and left a Big Hole. Seems like eBay is the place.
Nice vid as always :D, I think you should make your own shock absorbers don't buy it, I've recently watch how shock disassembled and I think you n Mitch can make it
When soldering the ferules to the ends of cables it's much better to dip the fluxed end in a pot of molten solder as opposed to heating the ferule (and cable) with the torch and then wetting it with solder wire. This will let you control how far the solder climbs up the cable due to capillary action. You don't want solder in the cable past the ferrule since this will make the cable hard and cause it to break from fatigue in the spot it bends most. It doesn't have to be a fancy expensive solder pot either; I made mine from a copper plumbing pipe cap and some TIG wire that I bend into a cradle for the cap. I keep the solder in it and every time I need to make a cable I clamp the cradle in the vice and heat it up with the torch before dipping the cable in it.
It's not eight point seventy-five. It's eight point seven five. After the point it's single digits, that avoids confusion. It's basic engineering terminology that in today's dumbed down degenerates is slowly being eroded, N. B.
I know you are like ALL the other guy's on the internet, NO ONE Knows more then you do. None of us are as smart as you guy's, Mabey that's why we are NOT on RUclips. But you really make more work for yourself then you need to. And there are a whole more places to save weight. Ok I'm dun.
You think it's work, but it's not. I'm retired so I'm really just playing in my shop. It really is like a Dream Job. Thanks for taking the time to let me know what's on your mind.
Joe, I think it's important to remember how generous are the folks who make videos on RUclips without any guarantee of compensation, and for the sake of sharing knowledge. Not one of us knows everything, but I've found that I learn a lot by watching different practitioners build things, each with their own strengths and weaknesses. I for one appreciate Paul and Mitch's excellent videos for both education and relaxation.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Paul I made a mold for lead Ferrule ends using a large bolt drilling 1/4 hole through
Cut a slot in the bolt for the cable put a 1/4 inch rod in the bolt as depth stop I clamp the rod in my vise make the end of the cable bushy slide it down in the bolt pre heat the bolt
Melt lead into the hole as it cools tamp or press the led to compact it use the rod to push it out and file it clean
It works perfect every time
Make the cable bushy or flared open helps it from sliding off
It’s possible to do round balls this way as well by concaving two rods the size of the ball you want and tamping with hammer
While led is hot it just takes practice
Yes, sounds like you have a good system for making it work. There's always more than one way to do a job. Thanks for your comments!
What Paul said👍👍👍
Farrell? I assume spell check gave you that instead of ferrule.
Great cable tutorial!
Thank you! 😉
The side case repair was pure brilliance! I never knew that could be done.
Wasn't that a thing of beauty?
Thank you Tony.
Perfect pronunciation and great video!
Thank you John. Glad you approve of my pronunciation!
Your channel is like the Hodge Podge Lodge of Fabrication. Very relaxing. Thanks.
Funny! I like the Hodge Podge Lodge name.
A general trick is Bar of soap wiped on the area to bend when your heating alloys, when it turns black it's hot enough to bend, do a little at a time........amazing videos and an education, thanks for all of them......
Jonathon, thanks for watching and commenting.
I have one of those old discontinued Makita die grinders too. It is my favorite tool. I found knockoffs on eBay that buzz but are the same shape, for cheap. Now with three of them, I can keep bits in them instead of stopping and disassembling the tool to change bits.
Hey Mr Brodie, hope your putting up the fine fight for your health,,you are in my prayers....
Thank you Dell, appreciate your support.
It's the details that make a good race bike. 👍
The details certainly are important, if all the fundamentals are correct.
Holes in the torque stay please Paul 👍
Thanks for another entertaining and informative demo of REAL engineering. Great stuff !
Thanks for watching!
Thanks, interesting stuff again!
I have learned to live with the stainless throttle cables. They can be TIG-welded! Take couple of mm excess cable trough a stainless steel ferrule and give a quick fusion weld with low Amps. Hi-carbon steel cables can harden too brittle in the cooling process, but the stainless cable has worked fine for me.
That's a very good idea. I will try that next time. And use 304 stainless, not 303.
@@paulbrodie You can also try TIG fusion to keep bicycle cable tails from fraying. I have used like 10Amps or less for this operation and it takes only a fraction of a second to weld!
Always very relaxing to watch your videos✌🏻
6:50 A couple little machinists jacks or adjustable parallels would help a lot here. You could move them around next to where where you're drilling and get some support.
I do not have machinist jacks. Maybe it's time..
@@paulbrodie Check out adjustable parallels, too. They are very handy for many things.
You can cut the fiber glass seat pan with a cast cutter. Much safer way to do it. Cheers.
You can also ad pigment color so it matches.
Excellent work Paul loving this series mate. And finally I saw what you have in your aviary. I thought you had Reveves pheasants but mate your peacock's are wonderful. Cheers from Australia
Hello Australia! Thanks for watching :)
Thanks for this nice piece. Love all the hints and tricks, very nice intro.
Already quite clear that this is going to be an amazing bike :)
Thank you so much.
Thank you for showing us your great work!
There are materials available for soldering cables with stainless inner cables. Greetings from the cold northern germany :-)
Hello Germany! Yes, I'm sure that there are soldering materials for s/s cable, but I've never had a rusty throttle cable, so don't see the need to use s/s. Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie Thats an argument ;-)
And a little "but": stainless are better available.
First Amal carb with remote needle was the Amal RN. After that was the Amal GP. Have also some Dellorto SSI carbs at home but I like the amal better.Italian bikes need Dellorto SSI.
Yes it nice to match Italian carbs with Italians bikes, but I am bucking that trend.
Another great video Paul. The devil is in the details.
Enjoy the coffee.
Mike
Thank you Mike!
👏👌cheers Chris
I've found that is worth breaking out the little Oxy gas axe. Cuts the cable nicely but leaves a little nubbin on the end. If you have remembered to fit a ferrule, tiny bit of flux and silver solder time. One heat operation.
I used to put a needle bearung in the Backplate so it can rotate on a bushing on the Axle and then hitch the Torque Stay to the Frame using Rose Joints, this reduces rear Wheel hop under braking and also looks cool being paralell to the Swingarm.
I think you're talking about a "floating rear brake". Am I correct?
@@paulbrodie Well I think you could call it that.
Wish I had this video available to me last week when I had to make a brake cable. I used the casting method where I drilled a hole in a block of wood, inserted my scored and fluxed cable end into the hole, and cast the new end by filling the hole with molten solder. I really like your method better Paul. Thanks for the education!!!
Thanks for watching!
You should try lead for your casting. I use discarded wheel weights and a propane torch. A steel shot glass makes a good crucible and it sounds like you already have a mold.
Wow.ypur a genius 👏 so.happy.ypu make these videos . I just picked up a 1973 z90 harley davidson.. it's a project bike if.this bike was in your shop.it.would. be running in no time
I do like the 4 stroke Aermacchis. I like that they are built in Italy. Thanks for watching.
Nice video. Where are the go fast lightening holes on the brake torque arm?
When I was in high school modifying my Hodaka dirt bike, I made a torque stay for the rear brake and drilled it full of holes. When I rode it in the UBC trails, it snapped (with a Big Bang) and the brake rod wrapped around the axle. Yes, the holes were pretty big, but I always remember that, and tend not to drill holes in torque stays...
@@paulbrodie My Hodaka, an Ace 90, didn't stay running long enough for me to modify it. I did tear it apart on the workbench a lot. It had some clever engineering
@@PatFarrellKTM I did everything to my Hodaka: hi-comp head, reed valve, larger carb, expansion chamber, Filtron air filter, and then I ported it to magazine specs. When I finished it was slower than an Ace 100.
@@paulbrodie You should have just bought a SuperRat :-)
@@PatFarrellKTM There are a lot of things I should have done...
Hey mate thanks for your show I really enjoy and appreciate the way you present it. As a lifelong motorcycle enthusiast and a person with learning difficulties I’m a very hands on person.
I’m presently building my first racer Suzuki SP370 for period 5 road racing. I learned a little about Aermacchi back in the 90’s and have also had the privilege of meeting a man involved with the “Linto” bikes.although a jigsaw puzzle of an AJS 7R is the motivation I found your program looking to find ways to emulate the performance of the Aermacchi.
I watch you and gain the confidence to work with my limited experience , money and home workshop. The Vincent chat also helps me not to get upset when the plan doesn’t work. Thanks bud!! I’m improving my tools and have never been so excited about it either. Numbers are an issue for me but you teach me how to make a better finish and a safer part.
Please talk about the length of the inlet manifold ( induction) when it’s time to tune. Have a great day!!
Thank you for liking our channel. Sounds like you have some great projects. Nothing wrong with being a hands on person. I think the world needs more. I believe the intake manifold length is 100mm along the centreline of the tube.
Not sure if already mentioned by another subscriber but…..stainless cable is easily soldered using the specific liquid flux made for that purpose. I used to do it all the time in a former life 😁
Thanks!
A bearing seperator/puller can be used to remove gears from a shaft on the press in place of the aluminum parts Paul has made Of course a store bought tool isnt nearly as cool :) Great lessons as always thanks fellas!!
It would be worth trying a traditional two- or three-leg puller
That nylon liner was a mistake? my first prosthetic supplier made.
With soft liner and high pressure applied, the liner would get between
the strands of the cable binding and breaking at the tightest radius.
I WAS using many latex bands on the terminal device for extra grip...
I only grease cables now ...
That cable housing you're using is superior in that it won't stretch and act as a spring,
very good for precise action with bicycle dérailleurs.
The difficulty with the stainless steel cable soldering, is that true with silver solder as well?
I'd say you DEFINITELY have an eye for fit and finish. Going to be a beautiful bike.👍👍👍
I don't think it would be easy to silver solder a stainless steel cable. I would never volunteer to do something like that. I do like making nice stuff. Thanks for watching!
Ah so wtf YT?!? I see Paul's video in my feed and I check my notifications and nothing there, so I think, hmm maybe I just haven't hit the bell...nope, get to the video and I'm not subbed anymore. Bloody YT must've glitched out so I encourage everyone to check.
Sorry to hear. Thanks for watching!
The high fiber cardboard was a clever way to keep your acetone moving.
Thanx for a great video. We used to under cut the dogs for a positive gear shift . 😀
Yes I have heard of that more than once. My Aermacchi transmissions never gave me any trouble. Thanks for watching.
Try an oscillating tool for cutting and shaping composites. It creates WAY less dust than using a cutting disc and grinder.
being able to roll you r's is genetic ..... I can't, so, Airmackie for me
👍👍
There is a SS solder flux that works quite well on cables. Be sure to neutralize with water as it’s corrosive to brass parts. I get it from McMaster Carr and believe they do ship to businesses in Canada. Another good video👍🏼
THANK YOU...
Look for Sta-brite silver solder made by Harris. Usually can be found in better hobby shops, welding supply shops as well as McMaster-Carr in N. America at least. The acid flux should be neutralized afterwards, but may migrate along cable. Use sparingly... Fraying out the end of the cable is also a good idea. Cheers from Colorado
Uhhh I have tin side covers from a baloon bike to mold and now watching this I want to go to fibretek. LOL! I am going to do it in silicone so I getb a polished finish with CF maybe or kevlar mix. Great work, kevlar fabric around bolt holes can help with vibration cracking.
Good luck with the side covers!
great mix of tasks. if you can, it would be helpful if you could detail to some degree how you take the backlash out of the throttle? Thanks!! 👍👍😎👍👍
There are threaded adjusters on the throttle and the carb. I did have to shorten the cable a little bit more...
Love all the work and variety you did in this video, and Mitch's work. And your peacock. Who would know better how to pronounce a name than someone from that place itself? And you are a gentleman that learns from the people. You and Mitch should really be wearing a respirator whiled cutting fiberglass. That dust can mess up your lungs pretty bad. Take care of yourself, no matter how old you are. Are you able to tig braze the ends onto stainless steel cable? Thank you so much for telling us about dipping the brushes and rollers into acetone! That will be a great help (and would have been a great help) when working on my future composite projects. That is a simple and genius idea of using those bicycle curved housings for the carburetor. When you put the cable on, the first thing that came to my mind was; what if Paul brazed some of those cable guides (not sure if that's the proper name) onto the frame to keep the cable neat and tidy? Thank you Paul for all the expertise and knowledge you share on your channel. You and Mitch do a great job!
Thanks for your comments. We will be careful. Cheers!
Regarding looking for the carburetor parts, I believe this is a Amal MK ll or Square Amal. I had a pair on my 1979 Bonneville and was able to source parts from Burak Bye products in California years ago. I believe he's still in business as a machine shop. I agree about the Amal performing better than the Mikuni, that was my experience also when doing carburetor conversions. Good luck.
Thanks Lori.
The august 1991 issue of "Classic Bike" carries an article about its road race championship,
the legendary Phil Read winning the 350 championship at the Oliver`s mount circuit in
Scarborough ,north Yorkshire, riding Syd Lawton`s borrowed 350 Aerrrmacchi I know you weren`t born then Paul but I thought you may just find that interesting, its great watching
the work you and mitch create, most enjoyable.👍
Thanks William. I do like road racing stories, and I was born before then.
Glad you find making throttle cables a pain as well 😂👍 hay where you get that little roller?
The roller came from Ultralux Plastics in sunny Richmond, BC. George is 85 and still running the business :) Such a character!
please do a VRY detailed vid on how to drill bolts/nuts for safety wire. Im going though a hand full of bits just for 1 bolt grade 8. I even use a jig
Drilling safety wire holes is very tricky, and hard to do well. I made a fixture for doing this. We'll see if it makes it onto the next video. Thanks for watching!
Are you using lubricant while drilling? What speed/feed? Are you using a pillar drill or a hand drill ?
Why do your peacocks have breeze-blocks in their enclosure? Is that like a rock for them ?
I put their food on top of the blocks.
I had wondered about SIS sheath for throttle cables, no 'lost' movement or compression like you get with Bowden cables.
I thought I was probably the only one crazy enough to be making custom nipples for cables but obviously I'm not.
Did you have slide in backwards? It didn't seem to have any cutaway showing and wasn't fully opening.
Throttle cables are easiest to make as cable sizes match bicycle brake cable and outer is easily available in various colours (although I think I made a mistake buying a bulk roll of yellow outer sheath, one Suzuki RM and one 'custom' Yamaha throttle cable later - a LOT left over)
I've never tried it but a friend uses stainless cable, make stainless nipple and TIG weld or even just TIG end of cable to make a 'ball'
I was taught to use 'soft soap' or dish soap on alloy, it turns brown then black around 400f which is usual annealing temp, seems to work on even Japanese casings.
With the brake torque arm, run a ball mill down the length at about half thickness.
It's overkill as weight reduction is tiny but does look 'cool'.
Throttle is working fine now. I miscalculated the cable length and it was too long, so it got shortened. No, the slide was not in backwards! SIS is the shifter cable in the bicycle world. No, you are not crazy for making custom nipples..
@@paulbrodie I first came across SIS cables about 25 years ago with Shimano.
At the time I thought that was the only way to get them, pre-made length.
Used to go mountain biking with a neighbour 10 years younger than me. almost 2000ft climb for first 2 miles of our loop but it do maker it fun coming home after 15~20 miles. Mountain biking worked out much cheaper than doing Enduro's on 120+ mph 490 Maico but was only sli8ghtly safer due to less protective equipment
@@1crazypj I bought a roll of bulk SIS cable years ago, and it's very handy to have around the shop for projects like this. Brand name is Jaguar!
Would it have worked to heat the fiberglass tank and try to straighten it? You could use the bench, or even reverse curve as a backing? Also, an oscillating saw works well on fiberglass and carbon with less safety concerns. Great job though!
Thank you Robert. I think someone else also suggested using heat to straighten the seat. I'm not sure that's the best way. Yes, a sabre saw will cut fiberglas, but the diamond wheel does a neater job with less "fraying".
@@paulbrodie www.harborfreight.com/variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63113.html
Not a sabre saw, one of these. I used for prosthetic sockets for years, pretty clean cut and controllable
@@nsopceo That looks like a great tool. Do not have. Might have to get :)
Hi Paul, I'm a big fan of your work and great videos. Can you disclose what tacho you bought and how it'll be connected to the ignition? Thanks Claus
I bought an Autometer tach made by Pro Cycle. I've used them several times in the past, and they are "usually" trouble free. When the new tach arrives, and gets installed, you will see the wiring diagram.
I used to run a composites shop, and to correct the bowed front face of your seat you could warm it carefully with a heat gun, put a well fitting wood block inside against the bowed edge, and G clamp it to a flat surface till it cools, preferably overnight if you have the time.
Ideally it's best if you can bow it slightly past what's required as it tends to shrink back slightly on cooling.
I'm very much enjoying following the project, and greatly admire your high precision quality workmanship.
Seat is all mounted now, and turned out quite well. Thanks for your tips :)
Seeing you touching the glass fiber without gloves got me sympathy scratching behind the screen. Nice video with diverse subjects!
Thanks Tom. I don't get itchy from the fiberglas matt. Maybe I'm just lucky?
Did you ever consider mounting the brake torque arm to the frame so it pivots with the suspension movement? That used it be popular on the factory 80's MX rear discs and seemed to make sense as far as freeing up the suspension from the braking forces. Any thoughts Paul?
John, yes I used to read all those articles from way back then. And they do make some sense. On my little bike with such a small rear brake, I would not bother. With a good, strong front brake and the resultant weight transfer, there's not a lot of weight on the rear wheel under heavy braking. I think the floating rear brake sounds good in concept, but is not needed in the real world.
@@paulbrodie That makes sense, Paul. Hard not to get caught up in the cool engineering of ideas like that but I agree, a rear wheel with no weight on it under braking adds little stopping power. During my Westwood days the rear pads lasted all year and the fronts needed changing every 2 races! (RG500)
Looking forward to your next video!
@@johnny787 I used to hang around Westwood as much as I could. We might have even crossed paths...
Paul, please put a mask on when you are cutting fiberglass. Thanks Murray
Murray, I would if I was doing lots of cutting, but this was 2 minute job and I am talking to the camera. Thanks for watching!
Could you lighten the torque stay by drilling or cutting opposing triangles forming like a lattice leaving say 10mm metal in between? Or would it weaken too much or not worth the effort for a few grams?
I am going to drill a few small holes. Too many people have said something...
@@paulbrodie I would rather reinforce it with a top / bottom girder on the thin web, resulting in some kind of double-T cross section.
@@mbi379 Thanks for your comments. I have already drilled a bunch of small holes, as you will see in the next video :)
As ever lovely work, it’s all the little bits that take all the time. What sort of tank are you thinking of using?
Thank you James. The tank will be a fiberglas cover with a small aluminum tank hidden underneath. Just doing basically the same as the 2001 race bike.
@@paulbrodie Ideal solution for racing, I teach machining/fabrication if you want the ally tank making email me and I will fabricate it for you. All the best James.
@@rc166honda Thank you James, that's very kind of you to offer, but that's going to be one of our videos!
@@paulbrodie Thought it might😁carry on with the great work. I’m sure you’ve inspired someone to “have a go” and that’s what it’s all about😉
overall, with all the weight saving you do how much will you save total? on the whole bike? my son and I have a wager on this.... you do amazing work.
Well, The first Aermacchi race bike I built in 1999 weighed about 245 lbs. The second one built in 2001, had all the weight saving features that I'm doing here, and it weighed 221 lbs. Does that help you with those numbers? Thanks for liking our channel :)
As always, a most agreeable video, and timely, too. Thanks for the info on the bike cable housing types. I never knew the name of parallel-wire type. I have to repair my wife's front derailleur cable this week. Which brings me to a question -- I always was told that the cup on the end of the cable housing was the ferrule, and the knob on the end was the lug. Am I incorrect?
On my wife's bike, some bright spark used a plastic ferrule (cup thingie) at the shifter, and the individual wires of the SIS cable punctured through both the plastic ferrule/cup, *and* the plastic threaded adjuster, locking the adjuster in position, and creating a nasty bunch of splayed-out, sharp wires. The SIS cable **really** needs a metal ferrule/cup!
Also, I'm curious about your pronunciation and/or accent -- you sounds as if you could be from the North-Eastern US, although I have never met anyone from Vancouver (if I'm remembering correctly), so I have no means of comparison. Close, or way off base? :)
I would say a ferrule and a cable end. Lugs is usually found on older steel road bike frames. Yes, I would never use plastic ferrule, much prefer steel ferrules, for reasons you pointed out. I was born in the UK, moved to Vancouver when I was 9. Thanks for watching!
Those peacocks might shut up somewhat if you give them a walk-on role occasionally.
SHIT ... LMFAO
Another awesome video guys!, Paul you mentioned that this bike was going to be a bit more "shiny" than your last one, forgive me if my quote isn't bang on. Can you share any fit and finish plans with us? Are you breaking out the buffing wheel and compound or do you ever vapour blast anything?
All polishing by hand, no buffing wheel. I don't want that much shine. I use 80 grit, 180, 400, red Scotchbrite, and finally Autosol polish. I've made really paint perfect shiny bikes in years past, and they almost never get ridden, so I want a finish that is nice but not perfect if you look really close. I have bead blasted but never vapour blasted.
Where did you get that throttle assembly from
Paul? Another great video, thanks mate.
It was on eBay. Thanks for watching!
Dear Paul, Would you please post the gentlemen's site that offers the close ratio transmission gears?
You can contact Rudolf Jungjohann at aermacchi@web.de
My favorite comment, "now we need a brass ferrule, how long could that take?"
What wood reduce a hole bunch of sprocket flex?
That's a very interesting question. I think I know what you are asking, but you have two words spelt completely wrong. Would you like to try again?
O but you can solder to stainless wire. You just need the right flux.
Almost forgot, rolling RRRRRR is also very 'Welsh' (or maybe pirate?)
I'm surprised that's an AMAL carburetter on an Italian bike unless of course it's been retro-fitted. I've owned a 175 Bianchi Tonale/ Ducati Mk3 250/ and three Laverdas and all had DellOrtos.
Yes, stock motors all used DellOrtos. The Amal is a racing mod.
Why do you not drill speed hole's in the torque bar???
save weight.
Don’t worry my English is not very well,,, but math/numbers don’t lie…..specially on a job/hobby that we love…
The motor that Honda should have made
Honda did make the S90, which was a neat little bike back in the sixties.
Paul, what the size of your arbor press?
3 Ton. It's a good size.
Epoxy will bond to cured polyester much more strongly. Peel ply will help remove excess rein, which adds no strength.
Apparently too many carbs can lead to weight gain. I suggest more fibre. :)
On today’s episode of Parts and Craft, Paul makes a thing an Mitch guesses how long it takes ! 😜
Hey Paul, just curious; why did you decide to machine a sprocket rather than just buy one?
I didn't actually make the sprocket, just bored out the middle and drilled the 6 holes. I probably saved a little $ by buying the blank, and because I'm fussy I like to think I did a better job with the bore and holes. Less slop.
As weight conscious as you are, I'm surprised you didn't use fiberglass cloth for the layers inside the exterior chopped strand mat (CSM) layer. Much better strength to weight ratio, but will show the pattern thru the paint, hence the reason for having an outer CSM layer.
I glued on the (3) seat mounts, then added one layer of matt plus one layer of carbon fibre cloth.
@@paulbrodie I was referring to the new video when you were just straightening out the front end of the seat/fender that was removed from the mould early. I've done a fair amount of fiberglass racebike bodywork, so I'm not just an armchair "expert". Just an observation, and I'm loving the before and after weighing in this series.
@@lunkydog Thank you. Yes I like weighing stuff before and after :)
That throttle assembly looks like a copy of the "Gunnar Gasser".
Two syllables
" air machee" 🇮🇹🇺🇲👍
Impressive as always 👀
So much work ⚙⚙⚙ take your time buddy 😎✊👍🏁
35:40 PerfectangleMitch!
Thanks, sometimes I get lucky 👍 🍻
I live in Mexico and I have an Aermacchi 250 RR Do you know where a could buy an motor used model 1976? I only have the transmition, thank Your attention.
Hello Mexico! It used to be that you could phone Leslie at Moto Italia in California and he likely could help. He retired last year and left a Big Hole. Seems like eBay is the place.
Love watching you work on your Aerrrrmacchi while I eat my Burrrrito!
With Covid, it's been a long time since I've had a Burrito!
What ? No holes in this torque arm ? 😂
ok, ok will see what we can do.
Can you told us your story about peacock!
There might be a way to weave something in...
Nice vid as always :D, I think you should make your own shock absorbers don't buy it, I've recently watch how shock disassembled and I think you n Mitch can make it
Thanks for the vote of confidence! Worx shocks have been ordered 2 months ago, so I will give them a call.
You pronounce "solder" as I would. I've heard so many Americans say what sounds like "sodder". Are you sure the carb slide was opening fully?
I say solder because I was born in the UK. I'm pretty sure the slide is opening fully...
@@paulbrodie I blame Mitch for my view down the carb bell mouth ! : )
Dell'Orto Paul! C'mon man.
For racing the Amal Mk2 gives better performance.
When soldering the ferules to the ends of cables it's much better to dip the fluxed end in a pot of molten solder as opposed to heating the ferule (and cable) with the torch and then wetting it with solder wire.
This will let you control how far the solder climbs up the cable due to capillary action. You don't want solder in the cable past the ferrule since this will make the cable hard and cause it to break from fatigue in the spot it bends most.
It doesn't have to be a fancy expensive solder pot either; I made mine from a copper plumbing pipe cap and some TIG wire that I bend into a cradle for the cap. I keep the solder in it and every time I need to make a cable I clamp the cradle in the vice and heat it up with the torch before dipping the cable in it.
Sounds like a good idea, especially if you do a lot of cables. I have not had a cable break from fatigue. Thanks for watching!
Does the german guy, rudolph jan johann have a webside or somethin like that?
Not sure about a website, but you can email Rudolf Jungjohann: aermacchi@web.de
Paul, hate to say it but you're not pronouncing Brodie correctly! It should be BraDay, haha!! Great episode, as always!
Thanks. In California, if you do a "Brodie", you lock up the rear wheel and skid your bicycle sideways.
You are a pasha without a mask
It's not eight point seventy-five. It's eight point seven five. After the point it's single digits, that avoids confusion. It's basic engineering terminology that in today's dumbed down degenerates is slowly being eroded, N. B.
I'll try to keep that in mind.
I know you are like ALL the other guy's on the internet, NO ONE Knows more then you do.
None of us are as smart as you guy's, Mabey that's why we are NOT on RUclips.
But you really make more work for yourself then you need to. And there are a whole more places to save weight. Ok I'm dun.
You think it's work, but it's not. I'm retired so I'm really just playing in my shop. It really is like a Dream Job. Thanks for taking the time to let me know what's on your mind.
Joe, I think it's important to remember how generous are the folks who make videos on RUclips without any guarantee of compensation, and for the sake of sharing knowledge. Not one of us knows everything, but I've found that I learn a lot by watching different practitioners build things, each with their own strengths and weaknesses. I for one appreciate Paul and Mitch's excellent videos for both education and relaxation.