Minor clarifications for the start: a fabric selvedge only gets the loops on shuttle-woven fabrics. Most fabrics these days are done with a cut weft that is shot in from one side only, and you instead get a fluffy selvedge with the loose weft thread ends sticking out. Also it's worth showing the twill weave that most denim has, since selvedges are usually plain woven to keep them tighter and less prone to fray. And yes, woven fabric is very forgiving of trapezoidal distortions. You essentially take advantage of the stretch along the bias to make up for the skew. (Fun fact: some brands use a broken twill weave denim to avoid the twisting of the pant leg that you can get with regular unidirectional twill weave denim fabric, caused by the uneven bias stretch)
It depends on where the fabric is also woven, if from India or Pakistan then it is as how Cornelia’s showed in the diagram, as they still weave the old way, whereas many of the fabrics woven in China have that furry edging to it as they are using those types of machines. They are also your polyester and acrylic mixed combined cotton or woollen fibers. It’s the fastest way to tell if the fabric is cotton poly or just fully polyester as they do have a furry/fluffy edge. It also depends on the quality of the fabric as well. The fabrics that I buy do not have the furry edge as they are shuttle-woven as well as having a tighter selvedge to the rest of the fabric. The Japanese woven denim is of a higher quality to that out of China and it does not twist or warp as does the Chinese denim is prone to doing. If I am shopping for fabric in person I avoid fabrics that have the fluffy edges to them, their edges shrink more when pre washed. Over time I have worked out the best fabrics to buy are those not made in China, in the past 20-30 years the quality of the cotton bolts for quilting have become very thin and of a poorer quality to what it once was. I find it’s over priced as well. Their 100% cotton Fiber bolts are done on the shuttle-woven system as the edges of all quilting based fabrics salvage is neatly finished, it is also used to print the information of designer as well as the colour key of the bolts. I don’t buy any fabric that has polyester, acrylic or nylon any more as they retain a smell over time from body sweat and oils and they start to go yellow over time due to this, no mater how much you wash them. These are the fabrics that are mostly produced on the new style of weaving machines. They have that furry edge to them also you can see where the machine teeth have punctured the edge of the fabric. I have found the natural fibers have the best quality and there are more plant based fibers like lining now being produced. Plus the new all natural recycled fibers into new fabric is now starting to get some traction in the fabric industry alone, now with wool and other natural fibers making a comeback and being reasonable priced from other countries we are getting a nice selection and choice as well as quality again.
Sometimes I wonder if i should go back to school and study design, then I watch these kind of videos and I know I'm on the right track. Congrats, your videos are highly informative, well planned, I love the desk, makes you look professional. Love the new light. The fabrics is not a mistery, its for a new suit for me, right? No? Can i be? Lol I follow a lot of sewing videos and there's no one like you out there. Keep up the good work.
I found your channel through YT Shorts and I am so glad that I did. The information you share is fascinating, engaging, accessible and indispensable. Thank you!
I soooo much enjoy your videos!!! I’m a self-taught sewer and you do a GREAT JOB explaining why patterns are the way they are. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!! P.s. I also find you extremely entertaining to watch!😜
Interesting analysis. I have often wondered about the fit of pants cut with the side leg on the straight of grain, with extreme curved inner legs, so I appreciate that you made some sample pants and modeled them in the process.
I always get something from your videos. Production quality keeps me coming back. While I’m not making my own clothes, I am a male wearing similar clothes. 🤓
I have today just finished making my first pair of jeans for myself. I kept coming back to your pants sewing and drafting videos for guidance so I am very grateful for your awesome content! Rare to find amazing sewing and pattern drafting content for menswear
I have been wanting to attempt jeans for ages but have been unable to find heavy denim. It's all really light weight or stretchy. Do you have a source?
@@krisniznik3953 I got some heavy denim at a local fabric shop but I'm sure you can get heavy weight denim online. Mine are in a 14oz denim which is very heavy weight
When you did the curved zipper all I could think of was "codpiece jeans". Could be a new fashion trend. Seeing the pattern alterations was informative. Thanks.
I think you are brilliant in explaining the jean pant pattern . and you follow up with the toil of the pant. Your final comparison of your jean pattern vs a torn apart jean panel was enlightening. thank you so much. The best and one of the kind video on most desirable subject ever! cheer.
I had always presumed (b/c this is how I would do it) that a faux-selvage, crafted out of twill-tape, was added to the edge of a regular pant leg. It would not be difficult to do although this would require attaching the tape by hand -- the additional money people willingly shell-out for selvage jeans would more than compensate for an extra 30-min work. However, the added seam you found is very interesting! I'd love to hear more about that.
doing that tuck/dart at the bottom of the pant leg is kinda smart. With many wovens, if the bottom of the leg is off grain it'll hang oddly -- if you look at your white pair, they angle inward a bit, making you look very slightly bowlegged. More often though, the inseam will twist outward. I'm a fan of wide legged trousers, so I'd probably widen the leg to keep the outer straight, and not taper it on the inside.
Thank you for this. I have some great blue cross weave with red selvedge. This has helped me figure out how to show it off down the outer seams. Flat felled seam that does not tuck under in final step? Half felled I guess?
I just made some 1930’s inspired trousers with a straight outseam. The hook on the crotch was very extreme to get a nice fit which hangs well, I think this is less exaggerated on the jeans because they hug less for a more generalized fit. Having more width also allows it to hang a lot better because there isn’t as much of an angle which can lead to bowing, which I kind of noticed in your examples. I had a hard time getting mine to not bow so I basically just made the seams parallel (ended up with a 12” leg opening lol) aside from a very slight taper near the crotch on the back pieces to make the seam lengths even.
It’s so funny this came into my box today after I just received a batch of fabric I had ordered online, it never showed the salvaged online but when I got the order it has the prettiest selvedge I have ever seen lol it is a total strip of all the colours used in the weave.
7:41 “at this point there is no longer any salvedge and it starts to get cut, which means theres a curve going into the waistband” could you explain this? i draft pant patterns but am relatively new.
i always wanted to make my own clothes. but don't have the time nor money to make that happen in foreseeable future unfortunately. found your channel recently and love you and your videos. you're great at this 🙏
Very interesting. I have sewed jeans from several women's patterns. None ever put the selfedges on the outseams. I have sewed pyjamas with no outseams.
Great video. I think this ‘floppyness of fabric’ gives me a bit more hope. It seems like there are a lot of ways to the right answer. It makes me worry less about the smallest details Is there any reason I couldn’t use the selvedge on canvas for the inseam? Seems like it would offer the same advantage, not pretty obviously but
I really enjoyed your process of testing. TBH I had dismissed selvedge jeans as a marketing gimmic, and could not understand what was so important to have the selvedge finish when it is concealed anyway?
I am new to your videos and am enjoying them and learning a lot. Thank you so much! I have a question though: I just noticed the paper that you are using. I ordered some and initially, I left a really stupid review on Amazon about it but then realized I was dealing with something much more sophisticated. Can you do a video about the paper with the grid of numbers you are using and how to use it properly? (Forgive me for not remembering what it is called). Thank you again Mr. Quiring 🙂
It's an alphanumeric grid. They are all 1 inch apart (on my video anyways). And from what I've been able to learn, the grid functions a lot like battleships/old maps where the alphanumeric grid is mainly use to locate sections.
@@CorneliusQuiring Huh. Maybe it's not the same paper I bought. Mine is definitely not 1 inch apart. I measured it. A mystery to keep me occupied ☺️Thank you for getting back to me about it. 🙂
pattern drafting is just all about ease distribution, especially when converting a pattern into a selvedge pattern. A couple months ago I had to transform a pattern into a selvedge one and was stressing so much about it due to the curves, until randomly I just thought why don't I move the curves around the way you did in this video. It was like a light switched in my mind
It's kinda like "what is done to one side you must do to the other" or much like you explained in your so very helpful drafting video that one adjustment typically affects something else that also has to be adjusted in order to accommodate. So helpful you are!
Hi, do you have a video on how i can draft a yoke? i didnt understand the second sample. Also, am i supposed to watch your video on drafting a normal pant pattern first, then modify it to a selvedge pant pattern shown in this video?
I do not have a yoke video yet, I plan to do a full jean tutorial at some point. For now, yes, could could do the pant drafting video first, then do this make selvedge denim jeans.
@@CorneliusQuiring Really looking forward to that jeans tutorial and i hope it comes soon, your videos help me a lot as a beginner getting into sewing pants
They are, yes. I use their lightweight scissors and rotary cutters for my paper. ldhscissors.com/collections/fabric-shears/products/true-left-handed-lightweight-fabric-scissors?bg_ref=45p2jRCpwF
Try to draft one from scratch with measurements instead of tracing over an old pattern. It's very confusing at first when you're used to drafting with curvature in the outseam. But it's precise and less guess work. I have a method of drafting selvedge patterns which works well on my own body, I have been working and trialing that for a few months now. I might be able to make a video if you are interested. Info on how to draft a selvedge pattern is hard to find. About the theory. I think selvedge patterns might just work better on figures with less curves. A straight outseam might not work on a curvy person with wider hips. It can when there is more ease added in the foundation/ass area as they tend to do, but they are originally work pants so that could also be the reason of more ease at the ass, and the ease in the legs in general. Also the 'fold line'/grain line is not in the middle of the pant leg anymore usually so the outseam will get closer to the front of your leg instead of being perfectly at the side of your leg.
I just realized that your selvedge back panel has a slight curve on the outer top- how? I thought you lined up the outer part with a straight line how can there still be a slight curve at the end?
It was a thing as Jeans wasn‘t slim and with Lycra 😊. I have old ones and now they are back again. But this are at least straight leg pants or a Little tapered in or out
My thought is that one could take this info and make pants with only inside leg seams. If one has a fabric with a particular pattern, not having a seam down the outside could be ideal.
Look up Scottish trews! They were European bifurcated garments before joined hose were a thing, and it’s where we get the term “trousers” from. Since they were made from tartan, they were usually made like this, and would have a leather strip on the inseam to be more durable for horseback riding. They predate kilts by a few hundred years!
hi cornelius i ran into a problem. i first followed your pattern drafting tutorial for regular pants. i followed every step correctly, only that i didn’t add the extra inches for the dart on the back piece, because i don’t want a dart. anyways, on to this video, i successfully converted the front panel into a straight outseam with a slight curve on the outer top as you described it in the video. however, the back panel appears to be the exact same because i didn’t add that extra inch for the dart. now i am left with a front and back panel with a straight outseam but it is slightly curved going up towards the top for BOTH of them. is this okay? it will not affect the final result correct? do you know any way i could straighten the curve on the back panel?
Good question. For the little curve at the top, you want to add it on the outside of the leg. The rest of the pant down should have a straight outside line.
I don't think it's so much that "fabric is floppy" as that "human legs are not in fixed positions". The modified pattern will make the leg of the pant hang perfectly when your feet are a couple inches further apart compared to the original pattern, but you naturally stand with your feet in all kinds of different positions so the difference in ideal position is negligible. An issue if you're fitting a mannequin, but not so much a person, esp in workwear. In fact, the modified pattern aligns the grain along the outseam rather than the front which would be a *bigger* problem in a "floppier" fabric, where the weight of the inseam along increased bias might mess up the break of the cuff, but in stiff denim a few extra % of bias isn't going to do much.
Interesting. So that's why mens' jeans occasionally look so weirdly 'bowlegged'. I have noticed that, when looking at jeans in second hand stores, which aren't always sorted for men/women. They look oddly distorted and I could never figure out, why they had such an odd shape.
Thats not needed for a selvedge trouser. Thats only a design Choice. This Type of bowlegged ones have mostly a deeper rise and are not close Fitting. You can find straight legs with selvedge denim. For men.
I wonder if depending on the floppiness of softer fabric is part of why most jeans are so wimpy nowadays. Just 20 years ago the fabric was much heavier.
I will note that true selvedge you never need to cut the edges, they are already non fraying so no need to trim like you do fabric from projectile looms. Selvedge is also a word originating from Self Edge. Another words, no need to have a finishing seem or a overlocked edge. You can get selvedge material of all types and I would never waste those edges even if tonal.
So it's in the drape of the fabric then?? In other words, if these items were made with fabric that were thick and stiff, it would have worked out differently??
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Minor clarifications for the start: a fabric selvedge only gets the loops on shuttle-woven fabrics. Most fabrics these days are done with a cut weft that is shot in from one side only, and you instead get a fluffy selvedge with the loose weft thread ends sticking out. Also it's worth showing the twill weave that most denim has, since selvedges are usually plain woven to keep them tighter and less prone to fray.
And yes, woven fabric is very forgiving of trapezoidal distortions. You essentially take advantage of the stretch along the bias to make up for the skew. (Fun fact: some brands use a broken twill weave denim to avoid the twisting of the pant leg that you can get with regular unidirectional twill weave denim fabric, caused by the uneven bias stretch)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with myself and others in the comments here. 🙏🏻 Additional context is always great.
It depends on where the fabric is also woven, if from India or Pakistan then it is as how Cornelia’s showed in the diagram, as they still weave the old way, whereas many of the fabrics woven in China have that furry edging to it as they are using those types of machines. They are also your polyester and acrylic mixed combined cotton or woollen fibers. It’s the fastest way to tell if the fabric is cotton poly or just fully polyester as they do have a furry/fluffy edge.
It also depends on the quality of the fabric as well. The fabrics that I buy do not have the furry edge as they are shuttle-woven as well as having a tighter selvedge to the rest of the fabric.
The Japanese woven denim is of a higher quality to that out of China and it does not twist or warp as does the Chinese denim is prone to doing.
If I am shopping for fabric in person I avoid fabrics that have the fluffy edges to them, their edges shrink more when pre washed. Over time I have worked out the best fabrics to buy are those not made in China, in the past 20-30 years the quality of the cotton bolts for quilting have become very thin and of a poorer quality to what it once was. I find it’s over priced as well. Their 100% cotton Fiber bolts are done on the shuttle-woven system as the edges of all quilting based fabrics salvage is neatly finished, it is also used to print the information of designer as well as the colour key of the bolts.
I don’t buy any fabric that has polyester, acrylic or nylon any more as they retain a smell over time from body sweat and oils and they start to go yellow over time due to this, no mater how much you wash them. These are the fabrics that are mostly produced on the new style of weaving machines. They have that furry edge to them also you can see where the machine teeth have punctured the edge of the fabric.
I have found the natural fibers have the best quality and there are more plant based fibers like lining now being produced. Plus the new all natural recycled fibers into new fabric is now starting to get some traction in the fabric industry alone, now with wool and other natural fibers making a comeback and being reasonable priced from other countries we are getting a nice selection and choice as well as quality again.
Thank you for your clarification of this fabric. 😊
Theres a machine where you can do the selvedge after/before the pants is done.
Doesnt mean its edge to edge of the fabric.
*thats what I think 😅
Sometimes I wonder if i should go back to school and study design, then I watch these kind of videos and I know I'm on the right track.
Congrats, your videos are highly informative, well planned, I love the desk, makes you look professional. Love the new light. The fabrics is not a mistery, its for a new suit for me, right? No? Can i be? Lol
I follow a lot of sewing videos and there's no one like you out there. Keep up the good work.
You are kind, thank you! I'm glad to hear you get something from my videos. Also, you are most definitely on the right track :)
Yes Cornelia’s has very distinct way about him 😂 I have been watching some of his older videos lol
I found your channel through YT Shorts and I am so glad that I did. The information you share is fascinating, engaging, accessible and indispensable. Thank you!
That's awesome, thank you. I appreciate your interest.
Absolutely!!
I salute you 🙏 ,my dear great teacher
I soooo much enjoy your videos!!! I’m a self-taught sewer and you do a GREAT JOB explaining why patterns are the way they are. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!
P.s. I also find you extremely entertaining to watch!😜
Thank you, I'm glad you get something out of my content and are entertained. Thanks for watching.
Interesting analysis. I have often wondered about the fit of pants cut with the side leg on the straight of grain, with extreme curved inner legs, so I appreciate that you made some sample pants and modeled them in the process.
I'm glad you got something out of what I shared. Thanks for watching.
Really enjoyed seeing the process of straightening the outer seam and adjusting inner seams. Proud to be a Patreon supporter.
And your support is greatly appreciated. I'm glad you got something from this video.
I always get something from your videos. Production quality keeps me coming back. While I’m not making my own clothes, I am a male wearing similar clothes. 🤓
I have today just finished making my first pair of jeans for myself. I kept coming back to your pants sewing and drafting videos for guidance so I am very grateful for your awesome content! Rare to find amazing sewing and pattern drafting content for menswear
Good on you for getting them made! I hope they get plenty of wear.
I have been wanting to attempt jeans for ages but have been unable to find heavy denim. It's all really light weight or stretchy. Do you have a source?
@@krisniznik3953 I got some heavy denim at a local fabric shop but I'm sure you can get heavy weight denim online. Mine are in a 14oz denim which is very heavy weight
When you did the curved zipper all I could think of was "codpiece jeans". Could be a new fashion trend.
Seeing the pattern alterations was informative. Thanks.
I mean, it is one of the few fashion trends in history, that have not been endlessly recycled, yet 😅
What's old is new again, so who knows :)
I think you are brilliant in explaining the jean pant pattern . and you follow up with the toil of the pant. Your final comparison of your jean pattern vs a torn apart jean panel was enlightening. thank you so much. The best and one of the kind video on most desirable subject ever! cheer.
Oh wonderful, I'm glad to hear my approach was of use to you.
Stretchiness of fabric certainly counts for something. Thanks for fascinating video
indeed. thank you.
I had always presumed (b/c this is how I would do it) that a faux-selvage, crafted out of twill-tape, was added to the edge of a regular pant leg. It would not be difficult to do although this would require attaching the tape by hand -- the additional money people willingly shell-out for selvage jeans would more than compensate for an extra 30-min work.
However, the added seam you found is very interesting! I'd love to hear more about that.
That added seam essentially allows for a more traditional pant pattern but to still keep the selvedge, if that makes any sense.
I was wondering if the side seam was an alteration to make the jeans slimmer. Could that be the case?
doing that tuck/dart at the bottom of the pant leg is kinda smart. With many wovens, if the bottom of the leg is off grain it'll hang oddly -- if you look at your white pair, they angle inward a bit, making you look very slightly bowlegged. More often though, the inseam will twist outward. I'm a fan of wide legged trousers, so I'd probably widen the leg to keep the outer straight, and not taper it on the inside.
That's a good point. I hadn't thought about this. Thank you for sharing.
You are amazing-I learn so much from your videos. Your explanations make sense to me. Thank you so very much for your posts.
I'm really glad to hear it!
Happy people order clothes from you. Thank you for your interesting videos.
Thank you. 🙏🏻
hi Cornelius, you should make a video on how to make a selvedge jeans pattern. That would be so awesome.Ty
Thank you for the suggestion. I will consider it for a future video.
Thank you for this. I have some great blue cross weave with red selvedge. This has helped me figure out how to show it off down the outer seams. Flat felled seam that does not tuck under in final step? Half felled I guess?
Oh nice, I'm glad to hear this was of use. I hope the fabric of yours gets all used up now :)
I just made some 1930’s inspired trousers with a straight outseam. The hook on the crotch was very extreme to get a nice fit which hangs well, I think this is less exaggerated on the jeans because they hug less for a more generalized fit.
Having more width also allows it to hang a lot better because there isn’t as much of an angle which can lead to bowing, which I kind of noticed in your examples. I had a hard time getting mine to not bow so I basically just made the seams parallel (ended up with a 12” leg opening lol) aside from a very slight taper near the crotch on the back pieces to make the seam lengths even.
Yes, there is definitely a compromise in order to should the outside selvedge. Thank you for sharing your experiences as well.
It’s so funny this came into my box today after I just received a batch of fabric I had ordered online, it never showed the salvaged online but when I got the order it has the prettiest selvedge I have ever seen lol it is a total strip of all the colours used in the weave.
Oh that's awesome. Sounds like it must be a nice fabric!
My fabric came one day ago this video cant come better
nice :)
I like to use the furry selvedge in my art. It makes great flower petals!
Oh nice, what a clever use!
7:41 “at this point there is no longer any salvedge and it starts to get cut, which means theres a curve going into the waistband” could you explain this? i draft pant patterns but am relatively new.
Because if we kept it straight all the way to the top, we would need an S curve at the center back and it would sit too weird.
Fascinating! Love this study on jeans. Is rhis why they are so expensive compared to other pants?
It has more to do with the fabric and the time/effort/quality of the denim
Very interesting. Great video. Thanks! 💜💜💜
Thanks for watching!
At the back of trouser the space for the fishing and the length is what ? really want to know
Have been thinking the same thing for ages, thank you for clearing it up! Are you going to make your own pair?
I was thinking about making a pair in a future video. So perhaps coming up.
Looking forward to it!
i always wanted to make my own clothes. but don't have the time nor money to make that happen in foreseeable future unfortunately. found your channel recently and love you and your videos. you're great at this 🙏
Oh nice, well I hope you eventually have the time and money!
Very interesting. I have sewed jeans from several women's patterns. None ever put the selfedges on the outseams. I have sewed pyjamas with no outseams.
Oh nice, I hope the pyjamas were comfy.
Great video. I think this ‘floppyness of fabric’ gives me a bit more hope. It seems like there are a lot of ways to the right answer. It makes me worry less about the smallest details
Is there any reason I couldn’t use the selvedge on canvas for the inseam? Seems like it would offer the same advantage, not pretty obviously but
That is exactly it. There's basic rules and from there, it's really up to you. And yes, you can use any selvedge you want!
I really enjoyed your process of testing. TBH I had dismissed selvedge jeans as a marketing gimmic, and could not understand what was so important to have the selvedge finish when it is concealed anyway?
This is just my theory, but I get the sense that it's a case of "because we can" as opposed to there being a real reason.
I am new to your videos and am enjoying them and learning a lot. Thank you so much! I have a question though: I just noticed the paper that you are using. I ordered some and initially, I left a really stupid review on Amazon about it but then realized I was dealing with something much more sophisticated. Can you do a video about the paper with the grid of numbers you are using and how to use it properly? (Forgive me for not remembering what it is called). Thank you again Mr. Quiring 🙂
It's an alphanumeric grid. They are all 1 inch apart (on my video anyways). And from what I've been able to learn, the grid functions a lot like battleships/old maps where the alphanumeric grid is mainly use to locate sections.
@@CorneliusQuiring Huh. Maybe it's not the same paper I bought. Mine is definitely not 1 inch apart. I measured it. A mystery to keep me occupied ☺️Thank you for getting back to me about it. 🙂
pattern drafting is just all about ease distribution, especially when converting a pattern into a selvedge pattern. A couple months ago I had to transform a pattern into a selvedge one and was stressing so much about it due to the curves, until randomly I just thought why don't I move the curves around the way you did in this video. It was like a light switched in my mind
It's kinda like "what is done to one side you must do to the other" or much like you explained in your so very helpful drafting video that one adjustment typically affects something else that also has to be adjusted in order to accommodate. So helpful you are!
Oh nice, I'm happy to hear you were able to figure it out for yourself and that this method was the same as yours.
I have wondered how they did it. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Hi, do you have a video on how i can draft a yoke? i didnt understand the second sample. Also, am i supposed to watch your video on drafting a normal pant pattern first, then modify it to a selvedge pant pattern shown in this video?
I do not have a yoke video yet, I plan to do a full jean tutorial at some point. For now, yes, could could do the pant drafting video first, then do this make selvedge denim jeans.
@@CorneliusQuiring Really looking forward to that jeans tutorial and i hope it comes soon, your videos help me a lot as a beginner getting into sewing pants
Another cool video, Cornelius.
Thank you!
What scissors do you use to cut the paper pattern? Are they from LDH?
They are, yes. I use their lightweight scissors and rotary cutters for my paper. ldhscissors.com/collections/fabric-shears/products/true-left-handed-lightweight-fabric-scissors?bg_ref=45p2jRCpwF
Hello, im interested in getting one of your basic jeans model please.
Just keep watching my videos for when that happens :)
Try to draft one from scratch with measurements instead of tracing over an old pattern. It's very confusing at first when you're used to drafting with curvature in the outseam. But it's precise and less guess work. I have a method of drafting selvedge patterns which works well on my own body, I have been working and trialing that for a few months now. I might be able to make a video if you are interested. Info on how to draft a selvedge pattern is hard to find.
About the theory. I think selvedge patterns might just work better on figures with less curves. A straight outseam might not work on a curvy person with wider hips. It can when there is more ease added in the foundation/ass area as they tend to do, but they are originally work pants so that could also be the reason of more ease at the ass, and the ease in the legs in general. Also the 'fold line'/grain line is not in the middle of the pant leg anymore usually so the outseam will get closer to the front of your leg instead of being perfectly at the side of your leg.
Good on you for developing a technique for yourself. I appreciate you sharing your thoughts as well.
I just realized that your selvedge back panel has a slight curve on the outer top- how? I thought you lined up the outer part with a straight line how can there still be a slight curve at the end?
A little further in you will see that I don't end up switching to add it on the outside of the leg panel.
Great analysis! Oddly I never knew Selvedge jeans were a thing.
Me neither. Maybe it just exists for menswear? I mean, with women, you have to account for the more rounded hip.
Yes, I think they are much more common in menswear.
It was a thing as Jeans wasn‘t slim and with Lycra 😊. I have old ones and now they are back again. But this are at least straight leg pants or a Little tapered in or out
My thought is that one could take this info and make pants with only inside leg seams. If one has a fabric with a particular pattern, not having a seam down the outside could be ideal.
Indeed, that is true! That's a great point.
It is how they get full leg patterns on sweat pants. Halloween designs come to mind.
Look up Scottish trews! They were European bifurcated garments before joined hose were a thing, and it’s where we get the term “trousers” from. Since they were made from tartan, they were usually made like this, and would have a leather strip on the inseam to be more durable for horseback riding. They predate kilts by a few hundred years!
hi cornelius i ran into a problem. i first followed your pattern drafting tutorial for regular pants. i followed every step correctly, only that i didn’t add the extra inches for the dart on the back piece, because i don’t want a dart. anyways, on to this video, i successfully converted the front panel into a straight outseam with a slight curve on the outer top as you described it in the video. however, the back panel appears to be the exact same because i didn’t add that extra inch for the dart. now i am left with a front and back panel with a straight outseam but it is slightly curved going up towards the top for BOTH of them. is this okay? it will not affect the final result correct? do you know any way i could straighten the curve on the back panel?
Good question. For the little curve at the top, you want to add it on the outside of the leg. The rest of the pant down should have a straight outside line.
what's the normal length of a shirt pocket
You can make it whatever you want.
? what's is the Normal length of a shirt pocket
I never remove the selvage. You never know when you mighr need an extra millimeter or two to make the pattern fit the available fabric.
That's good thinking!
Tisk Tisk, the trickery
haha. Indeed :)
Bonus: bias stretch across the curvy bits makes for a better fit.
That's a good point!
I don't think it's so much that "fabric is floppy" as that "human legs are not in fixed positions". The modified pattern will make the leg of the pant hang perfectly when your feet are a couple inches further apart compared to the original pattern, but you naturally stand with your feet in all kinds of different positions so the difference in ideal position is negligible. An issue if you're fitting a mannequin, but not so much a person, esp in workwear.
In fact, the modified pattern aligns the grain along the outseam rather than the front which would be a *bigger* problem in a "floppier" fabric, where the weight of the inseam along increased bias might mess up the break of the cuff, but in stiff denim a few extra % of bias isn't going to do much.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts in comments here and for elaborating. I appreciate you adding to conversation with your knowledge.
Interesting. So that's why mens' jeans occasionally look so weirdly 'bowlegged'. I have noticed that, when looking at jeans in second hand stores, which aren't always sorted for men/women. They look oddly distorted and I could never figure out, why they had such an odd shape.
This could very much be it. The little red and white selvedge is always a giveaway.
Thats not needed for a selvedge trouser. Thats only a design Choice. This Type of bowlegged ones have mostly a deeper rise and are not close Fitting. You can find straight legs with selvedge denim. For men.
@@claudiakneutgen4485
I'll definitely examine them closer, next time I see any.
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I wonder if depending on the floppiness of softer fabric is part of why most jeans are so wimpy nowadays. Just 20 years ago the fabric was much heavier.
Jeans, especially for men, do have a looser fit so that's another reason this works.
I will note that true selvedge you never need to cut the edges, they are already non fraying so no need to trim like you do fabric from projectile looms. Selvedge is also a word originating from Self Edge. Another words, no need to have a finishing seem or a overlocked edge. You can get selvedge material of all types and I would never waste those edges even if tonal.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with myself and others in the comments here. 🙏🏻
I think that this phenomena is familiar to anyone who has done dart rotation.
That's a great comparison.
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my question is why the back pattern is tilted
Jeans used to be really high waisted and it was to taper in at he lower back.
A whole year later and you still breathe so loud and so much. I am a professional editor, I can fix this issue for you for free
Who cares.....its corny
You're so quirky 😂
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Even though the pattern is curved but seam allowance is stitched evenly to the edges that why it looks straight from the side view 😂😂
So it's in the drape of the fabric then?? In other words, if these items were made with fabric that were thick and stiff, it would have worked out differently??
Kind of, yes. Jeans also aren't the most form fitting and so that's why we can get away with it.