Thank you!!! I knew a fuse had been blown but when I noticed that the unit didn't have a fuse, as a novice, I had no idea what to do without calling a serviceman. All I needed was to reset the house breaker. The part and oven is working now. LIFE SAVER.
I have an Electrolux EW30EW65gs9, The upper oven is not heating up, I have replaced the Heating element and the heat sensor, the thermal fuse has tested and is good. What I am seeing is that when the oven is turned on, set at 350 for example, it operates without any error code. When I test the voltage at the heating element, with the wires disconnected from the element, I get 110vac alternately on the 2 wires, but never at the same time so the element never gets 220vac. When I test the lower unit the same way it does alternate the individual voltage but then turns both legs on at the same time and the unit heats properly, any ideas?
My Kenmore range has heat at all burners, and the M/N is 970-678592. It is my oven that doesn't want to work properly. Yesterday it took 1.5 hours to reach 190 deg. The resistance readings are as follows: Bake element = 15 ohms, Broil element = 16 ohms, the Convection element was much higher and somewhere around 55 ohms, if memory serves me correct, and the Temperature sensor was 1075 ohms. Any ideas? Please help. Thanks.
Those resistance checks indicate that the oven elements and temperature sensor are all okay. Perform the troubleshooting in the video starting at 1:08 and ending at 1:47 (with the range still unplugged). A wiring failure or a failed electronic control board is likely causing your oven heating failure. If you need more help, let us know.
@@searspartsdirect Thanks for your help. Everything checked out okay so I guess I need a new control board. Do you ship to Canada, and if so how much? The model number is in my original post, but the part number on the control module is 316462808. Thanks.
@@jimdent351 We don't ship parts to Canada. You may be able to find an appliance parts supplier in Canada that stocks the part. If you know someone in the U.S., they can buy the part hear and ship it to you. Sorry we can't get you that part ourselves.
Can someone please advise. I have a Whirlpool Gold Series electric oven. Although the panel on the stove said it reached 350, my oven thermometer said it was only 220. The broiler works but now there is no red glow from baking element. The baking element is covered with a metal plate but I can check from the sides to look for the glow. Do you think it’s the thermostat, sensor, or the oven element that’s at fault? I can’t afford a new stove at this time.
Open the oven door and look for screws on top of the bottom oven panel that covers the bake element. If you see screws, unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breakers for the range and remove the oven racks. Remove the bottom oven panel screws and try to lift out the bottom panel. If you’re able to remove the bottom panel, you can check the oven bake element for damage. Replace the oven bake element if it’s broken. Here’s a video that shows how: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/wall-oven/how-to-replace-an-electric-oven-bake-element.html. If you need more help, let us know the model number of your Whirlpool Gold Series electric oven.
When I plugged in my range, it sparked at the plug and tripped the breaker. When I reset the breaker and plugged in the range again, the top burners worked and so did the broiling element; however, the baking element doesn't work anymore [and it is a good element] and i get an F1 error message. What can I do?
A short circuit in wiring and/or the electronic oven control board caused the circuit breaker to trip. We recommend that you have a service technician examine the range and find the cause of the short circuit then repair the range. You'll likely need to replace the electronic oven control board in the range but if you do that and there's still a short circuit in the wiring or a range component, the short may damage the new electronic oven control board as soon as you try to use the bake mode for the first time after installing the new electronic oven control board. You can schedule service here: www.searshomeservices.com/repair . Based on your symptoms, we recommend that you unplug the range and have a service technician examine it before using it again in case there's still a short circuit in the range. We hope this advice helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
+binaryman96 Because you indicated that the range passed all of the tests, your range may have a defective electronic control board that isn’t sending electric current to the bake element to heat the oven. I recommend that you have a service technician examine the range and replace that electronic control board if necessary.
If your range doesn’t work at all, check the house circuit breakers first. Reset the circuit breakers if they’re tripped. That should restore power to the range. If the range powers up but doesn’t heat, then resetting the circuit breakers may help if only one circuit breaker tripped. If these tips don’t help, follow the troubleshooting shown in the video. If you need more help, let us know the model number of your Kenmore Elite range and give us additional details about the range problem.
@@miguelpadillaochoa4704 Relays won't prevent the display from working in most ranges. If the display isn't lighting up, check the house circuit breakers. Reset the house circuit breakers for the range if they're tripped. If the house circuit breakers aren't tripped, shut off the breakers and check the power cord wiring on the back of the range. Reconnect any loose wires. Replace the power cord if it's damaged. If these tips don't help you resolve the problem, let us know the model number of your range and we'll provide additional technical advice.
If my temperature sensor is working, the power supply to the oven heating elements should be interrupted when the desired temperature is reached, correct ? The problem I have is an oven that does not warm up at all although the heating elements are ok (one is new) and they both receive 120V on each lead when baking is selected ON. So it should warm up but it doesn't. Any idea ? (Kenmore Electric Range C970-657322)
Yes, the electronic oven control board shuts off the power supply to the oven heating elements when the desired temperature is reached. Measuring live voltage at the element leads is dangerous and we don’t recommend it for troubleshooting. When you measured the 120-volts on each lead of the bake element in the bake mode, you likely measured the voltage from the same leg of 120-volt power during each voltage measurement because that voltage traveled through the element to the other lead. We don’t recommend that you conduct any further live voltage checks. We recommend that you unplug the range and check for continuity through the bake element and wiring from the electronic oven control board as shown at :59 in the video. If you measure about 16 ohms through the bake element wires that connect to the control board, then one of the two control board relays that control power to the bake element is likely broken. Replace the electronic oven control board (www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/318330880/0022/628.html) to fix that problem. Here’s a video that shows how: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/ranges/how-to-replace-an-electronic-oven-control-board.html. If you don’t measure about 16 ohms through the bake element wires that connect to the electronic oven control board, then find and repair the break in the bake element wiring. Here’s a video that shows how to fix broken wires: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/how-to-repair-broken-or-damaged-wires-video.html.
The problem has been identified. There was no voltage coming out of the control board and when lifting one side of the control board you could see some burnt soldering contacts behind the baking relay. New board ordered. Thanks for your advices.
So it's been a week with no response. What's the point of having a tech site if nobody looks at it? And I tried to ask the same question on the Sears Parts Direct site, couldn't even get through.
Kenmore 79092803010 oven. The main wire to the circuit board has fried at the terminal connector. Before I spend money on a new board can you suggest why this happened? I don't want to ruin a new board & waste my money. The rest of the wiring appears alright. Thank you.
Agreed. This guy was clear and concise as can be. Thanks for the great video and troubleshooting knowledge.
Thank you!!! I knew a fuse had been blown but when I noticed that the unit didn't have a fuse, as a novice, I had no idea what to do without calling a serviceman. All I needed was to reset the house breaker. The part and oven is working now. LIFE SAVER.
Mate that was the most informative tutorial vid ever, especially the visual aid. Now only if more ppl followed this example.
Thanks
Thanks for the positive feedback.
I agree ! This guy killed it
This guy is awesome. This is one of the best videos I have seen thanks man
Great video!
I have an Electrolux EW30EW65gs9, The upper oven is not heating up, I have replaced the Heating element and the heat sensor, the thermal fuse has tested and is good.
What I am seeing is that when the oven is turned on, set at 350 for example, it operates without any error code. When I test the voltage at the heating element, with the wires disconnected from the element, I get 110vac alternately on the 2 wires, but never at the same time so the element never gets 220vac.
When I test the lower unit the same way it does alternate the individual voltage but then turns both legs on at the same time and the unit heats properly, any ideas?
Control board relay issue.
My Kenmore range has heat at all burners, and the M/N is 970-678592. It is my oven that doesn't want to work properly. Yesterday it took 1.5 hours to reach 190 deg. The resistance readings are as follows: Bake element = 15 ohms, Broil element = 16 ohms, the Convection element was much higher and somewhere around 55 ohms, if memory serves me correct, and the Temperature sensor was 1075 ohms. Any ideas? Please help. Thanks.
Those resistance checks indicate that the oven elements and temperature sensor are all okay. Perform the troubleshooting in the video starting at 1:08 and ending at 1:47 (with the range still unplugged). A wiring failure or a failed electronic control board is likely causing your oven heating failure. If you need more help, let us know.
@@searspartsdirect Thanks for your help. Everything checked out okay so I guess I need a new control board. Do you ship to Canada, and if so how much? The model number is in my original post, but the part number on the control module is 316462808. Thanks.
@@jimdent351 We don't ship parts to Canada. You may be able to find an appliance parts supplier in Canada that stocks the part. If you know someone in the U.S., they can buy the part hear and ship it to you. Sorry we can't get you that part ourselves.
Can someone please advise. I have a Whirlpool Gold Series electric oven. Although the panel on the stove said it reached 350, my oven thermometer said it was only 220. The broiler works but now there is no red glow from baking element. The baking element is covered with a metal plate but I can check from the sides to look for the glow. Do you think it’s the thermostat, sensor, or the oven element that’s at fault? I can’t afford a new stove at this time.
Open the oven door and look for screws on top of the bottom oven panel that covers the bake element. If you see screws, unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breakers for the range and remove the oven racks. Remove the bottom oven panel screws and try to lift out the bottom panel. If you’re able to remove the bottom panel, you can check the oven bake element for damage. Replace the oven bake element if it’s broken. Here’s a video that shows how: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/wall-oven/how-to-replace-an-electric-oven-bake-element.html. If you need more help, let us know the model number of your Whirlpool Gold Series electric oven.
When I plugged in my range, it sparked at the plug and tripped the breaker. When I reset the breaker and plugged in the range again, the top burners worked and so did the broiling element; however, the baking element doesn't work anymore [and it is a good element] and i get an F1 error message. What can I do?
A short circuit in wiring and/or the electronic oven control board caused the circuit breaker to trip. We recommend that you have a service technician examine the range and find the cause of the short circuit then repair the range. You'll likely need to replace the electronic oven control board in the range but if you do that and there's still a short circuit in the wiring or a range component, the short may damage the new electronic oven control board as soon as you try to use the bake mode for the first time after installing the new electronic oven control board. You can schedule service here: www.searshomeservices.com/repair . Based on your symptoms, we recommend that you unplug the range and have a service technician examine it before using it again in case there's still a short circuit in the range. We hope this advice helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
yep everything checked out fine, but still not heating...any ideas
+binaryman96
Because you indicated that the range passed all of the tests, your range may have a defective electronic control board that isn’t sending electric current to the bake element to heat the oven. I recommend that you have a service technician examine the range and replace that electronic control board if necessary.
I'm getting heat but not accurate
U r awesome Captain Oven!
Muchos Kenmore elite 40 don't work may the resintece?
If your range doesn’t work at all, check the house circuit breakers first. Reset the circuit breakers if they’re tripped. That should restore power to the range. If the range powers up but doesn’t heat, then resetting the circuit breakers may help if only one circuit breaker tripped. If these tips don’t help, follow the troubleshooting shown in the video. If you need more help, let us know the model number of your Kenmore Elite range and give us additional details about the range problem.
@@searspartsdirect don't work the display...relays maybe
@@miguelpadillaochoa4704 Relays won't prevent the display from working in most ranges. If the display isn't lighting up, check the house circuit breakers. Reset the house circuit breakers for the range if they're tripped. If the house circuit breakers aren't tripped, shut off the breakers and check the power cord wiring on the back of the range. Reconnect any loose wires. Replace the power cord if it's damaged. If these tips don't help you resolve the problem, let us know the model number of your range and we'll provide additional technical advice.
Excellent video!
"Putting it where the goats can get it"
Thanks I'm eating eggs now because of this.
You make eggs inside of your oven?
If my temperature sensor is working, the power supply to the oven heating elements should be interrupted when the desired temperature is reached, correct ? The problem I have is an oven that does not warm up at all although the heating elements are ok (one is new) and they both receive 120V on each lead when baking is selected ON. So it should warm up but it doesn't. Any idea ? (Kenmore Electric Range C970-657322)
Yes, the electronic oven control board shuts off the power supply to the oven heating elements when the desired temperature is reached.
Measuring live voltage at the element leads is dangerous and we don’t recommend it for troubleshooting. When you measured the 120-volts on each lead of the bake element in the bake mode, you likely measured the voltage from the same leg of 120-volt power during each voltage measurement because that voltage traveled through the element to the other lead. We don’t recommend that you conduct any further live voltage checks.
We recommend that you unplug the range and check for continuity through the bake element and wiring from the electronic oven control board as shown at :59 in the video. If you measure about 16 ohms through the bake element wires that connect to the control board, then one of the two control board relays that control power to the bake element is likely broken. Replace the electronic oven control board (www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/318330880/0022/628.html) to fix that problem. Here’s a video that shows how: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/ranges/how-to-replace-an-electronic-oven-control-board.html.
If you don’t measure about 16 ohms through the bake element wires that connect to the electronic oven control board, then find and repair the break in the bake element wiring. Here’s a video that shows how to fix broken wires: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/how-to-repair-broken-or-damaged-wires-video.html.
The problem has been identified. There was no voltage coming out of the control board and when lifting one side of the control board you could see some burnt soldering contacts behind the baking relay. New board ordered. Thanks for your advices.
We’re glad to hear that you solved the problem. Thanks for letting us know what you found.
@@jlpirotte2757 5
So it's been a week with no response. What's the point of having a tech site if nobody looks at it? And I tried to ask the same question on the Sears Parts Direct site, couldn't even get through.
Kenmore 79092803010 oven. The main wire to the circuit board has fried at the terminal connector. Before I spend money on a new board can you suggest why this happened? I don't want to ruin a new board & waste my money. The rest of the wiring appears alright. Thank you.
It’s 4 am , send help .
I luv u so much, Poptartsundae!
What's the problem?
Over two weeks now with no response. Unbelievable.
m
I got a KitchenAid cook top it goes on and shuts off when hot it does this on all 4 plates anyone got an idea