How to Hone Your Knife (Steel and Ceramic Rods)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- The most important factor in knife performance is maintenance and a hone is the quickest way to keep a knife's edge in usable condition. Honing is not a full sharpening but the ceramic hones can remove material and form a burr. Because of this my preference is for the steel or to get the finest grit ceramic possible. High quality honing rods are key and the cost is low for great products that are linked below.
Honing Rule of Thumb:
Steel: Use on German knives less than 60HRc
Ceramic: Use on Japanese knives more than or equal to 60HRc
Maintenance Schedule:
German: Steel daily, strop weekly, stones 3-4 weeks.
Japanese: Strop weekly, stones 3-4 weeks
Nonaffiliated Links:
F Dick Dickoron: www.knifemerch...
F Dick Eurocut: www.knifemerch...
Idahone: www.knifemerch...
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the great explanations! My Dad was a butcher & meat cutter by profession and knew the business of knives. But, he didn’t explain the corrections made by a steel. Really appreciated!
Glad you liked it
Is there a reason you’re not a fan of micro beveling? I would love for you to do a video dedicated to it. I’ve read a lot of conflicting information about whether to do it or not. Also, If I do create a micro-bevel, do I strop the micro-bevel or the secondary bevel? In the article “What Does Steeling Do? Part 1”, Science of Sharp seems to say that the primary mechanism by which a honing rod restores keenness to an edge is via the creation of a micro-bevel.
From the article:
“In simple terms, steeling primarily produces a micro-bevel. To be consistent with these definitions, steeling does not sharpen the blade - if we accept that sharpening requires thinning the blade by grinding the bevel. For example, we may choose to sharpen a knife at 30 degrees (15 degrees per side) creating a millimeter wide bevel and then maintain the cutting ability of the knife by steeling at 20 degrees per side (40 degrees inclusive) to form a micro-bevel.”
He also says in the comments that “steeling doesn’t typically form a burr”
Would love to know your thoughts or see you do a video about it. Thanks!!!
Thanks for the great video. Your 3rd way ("the dumbest looking") of catching the right angle is also my preffered way. And yes, I think it really comes from being used to sharpening on stones.
Greetings from Central Europe.
Btw: I'm using ceramic rod and then 2 steels: Swibo from Victorinox and fine/polishing steel from F. Dick. Great performance.
they’re not wrong It really does look dumb but it works!
Ever try a strop after the ceramic? Honing followed by a loaded leather strop is currently my favorite way of maintaining German style knives.
Hope you’re staying warm!
At 11:05 min r.e. beginners. Wouldn't it make more sense to start with a shallower angle and work your way steeper? If you start steeper than the edge (e.g. 25° vs. 20°) then you'd potentially be rolling the edge too much. If you started closer to 15° then went a little steeper you'd hit the edge closer to the real angle first. If you're checking for the burr/edge between sets then you should be able to stop before going too steep and potentially rolling the edge too much or putting on a micro-bevel. just a thought.
Love your content BTW!
Appreciate the comment!
The concept relies on a microbevel not being formed which seems to be the case with using actual steels. My theory for beginners is that they aren't able to detect or not willing to look for how the edge is responding/what the burr is doing.
By ending at a high angle is seems like the edge or burrs are left kind of "off kilter" and not lined up with the blade. Whereas lowering the angle as you go corrals it into alignment leaving it pretty close to true. I really don't think it would be a good idea with the ceramic rods because they would microbevel it on the first stroke and you would be hitting the apex with the rest of the strokes. Had good luck on German knives like Vic, Wusthof, Messermeister, Mercer so far.
Not the best explanation but does that make sense?
@@EngineersPerspective701 I hear what you're saying. I appreciate the insight - you're clearly very skilled and I'm learning a lot from your channel, thanks! As a scientist myself, I particularly enjoy the technical elements of your content.
Heard some say that they've learned to find the right angle by sound.
I'll try to pay attention next time!
Doesn't the fine steel honing rod eat the blade?
Not at all. Unless you’re going Gordon Ramsey with the hone you probably won’t use up the blade for a loooong time
@@EngineersPerspective701 thanks for your reply. What do you think about Victorinox honing steel medium coarse? I want to get a honing steel rod that doesn't reduce the blade but helps me to maintain/keep the sharpness of the knife. I have found out that a diamond and ceramic are eaten up the blade. I don't know what type of honing rod to choose.
@@natureme2392 Generally any honing "steel" won't be aggressive enough to cause you issues like diamond and ceramic.
My recommendation would be to use a finer rod more often but with fewer strokes. I do 3-6passes per side on my Victorinox knives every time I use them. The harder steel knives like Wusthof I do it about weekly 3-6passes per side followed with a leather strop.
I'd suggest you look at the F dick Eurocut series. Either the fine or regular but the regular is pretty fine so maybe try that. F Dick makes the best honing steels, bar none.
www.knifemerchant.com/product.asp?productID=9329
@@EngineersPerspective701 didn't have no clue, thanks for your recommendation I go for F dick honing steel a fine coarse.
You know what ?
Everybody says under 60 use a steel, at a mere 57 the steel feels weird, maybe it's just a sensation.
I used ceramic rods in the past , but they screwed my knives and caught dirt... Wich ones would you reccommend ?
I recommend the rods linked in the video description for sure. The Eurocut is a great option.
Honing a Victorinox vs a Wusthof vs Kikuichi in AUS10 all feel different and respond different.
I’ve been using the ceramic exclusively for a while and off you’re careful it does keep you moving a long. But I’d say my personal preference is using a fine cut honing steel on harder German style knives.
Not sure what you have available but you can clean the rods with scotchbrite pads and bar keepers friend. Really refreshes the ceramics
Do the ceramic rod first, then get rid of the burr with the steel, it works.
These days I prefer to just follow up with a strop after either one. Seems to give the best results
The F Dick Eurocut from your link also shows a "fine" eurocut steel. Still prefer the regular cut instead? Also, any knowledge/thoughts on the Mercer honing steel? I'm trying to pick between the two and will be getting some Mercer knives as well. Thanks.
I think I would still recommend the regular eurocut still. Just seem to get better performance out of the slightly less “fine” rods. I’ve used the Mercer and it’s just okay. Definitely serviceable but the f dick is a notable upgrade
@@EngineersPerspective701 Thanks. I'll go with that. Also, I'm going with the Mercer Renaissance chef knife but thinking 10" vs the 8". I saw in another video you have both sizes. What's your preference? I'm pretty tall if that matters. Thanks, I appreciate the advice of a fellow engineer!
@@Agent_G_33 I’ve actually only ever used the 8” Mercer chefs, both genesis full bolster and Renaissance. Honestly really liked both as German style knives. I actually prefer the profile of the genesis slightly but definitely recommend the Renaissance.
That all said for 8” vs 10”. Is this a daily driver and/or will it frequently prep big meals? How big is your cutting board(s)?
@@EngineersPerspective701 Definitely and everyday user. But the meal prep would be for 4 people tops. Cutting board is definitely big enough. Seems like the 10" would be ok but don't want to buy one and only then realize its a bit hard to handle, especially for a newbie. Do you ever use your 10" Millennia?
@@Agent_G_33 I say go for the 8”. The 10” doesn’t add a lot of capability unless you’re stacking up big bunches of carrot, celery and onion for a soup or prepping several whole heads of lettuce. Stuff like that. But normal 4 person meals the 8” is perfect.
I just hold my knife blade up towards ceiling. Move the rod over the knife. Actually that's how I sharpen with everything, other than belt sanders.
Very interesting!
Coarse steels are useless for honing , just go for the fine one :)
Agreed. Maybe they have a place but it’s not in my kitchen that’s for sure
Or... Forget crap German steel and all this nonsense. Buy good steel, use a strop.
Different knives for different jobs. One is not “crap” or the other “good”. I’ve got l both Japanese and German kitchen knives from 55hrc to 65hrc and pocket knives that are 69HRc. They all have aspects that I prefer over each other.
Edge retention is at best ranked #4 on my list of things to look for in a kitchen knife. It to mention edge retention itself is a simplified term that doesn’t dive into how the edge actually performs over it’s useful life
Nope, for european/western uses german knives are good , also cheap to maintain etc...