I absolutely respect you giving this ago, I did a couple small parts years ago and it was a nightmare. I want to do my rear diffuser next but it's fairly large and a horrible shape. I felt really sorry for you when it went wrong but you should be proud of what you achieved for your first go.
Thanks for that man! It was a bit of a downer not gonna lie but I’m gonna rock it either way cause I am proud of what I have managed to do so far! I want to take a crack at more complex parts now that I have a basic idea of seaming different cloth pieces together. We shall see, have a great day!
@@Foxcraze I have a js racing rear diffuser on my fd2 civic, you can't buy it in carbon anymore so I'm thinking of skinning it.. the shape makes the job feel very daunting to me. Not sure it can be done on one piece of carbon sheet 🙄
@@Foxcraze this is going to suck! I think I'm going to use a pre impregnated carbon material so I can cut and seem it without too but ball ache.. wish me luck man 👍
@@Foxcraze chopped carbon would be awesome. Good luck with the next project. I'm going to try making a lip for my car soon. Your video helped out alot!
Me again, lol I noticed you rolled the carbon out from one end, "scroll method" is where you find the center of the cloth and your substrate and roll out 10" to 12" on each side this locks your on the substrate from the center so the weave can follow contours. You had "bunching" at your corners access weave had nowhere to go but if you start at the center the weave will run to the edge
You are on a roll with these tips haha appreciate it. I’m gonna be doing this lip over in forged carbon I think to fix the issues I had due to this attempt.
Could also have done a pre layup wetout on the carbon weave itself, both totalboat and fiberglast typically recommend doing these kind of jobs that way to prevent bunching in the weave
Not gonna lie, I didn’t even know what the terms you just used meant when I did this project haha. I would have done it differently if I had it to do over again.
Good to know about weeve care doing mine but I'm laying a strip of kevler on bottom so if it scrapes won't damage carbon fibre (F1 cars have kevler skid pads just a idea)
A 'weave lock's carbon will usually not do as well going around corners and bends. Next time, try working from the center of the bumper and working out, that will prevent any distortion of the weave
Since it will see a lot of UV light I didn’t wanna risk Delamination and heard the bond was better with resin over long term exposure so I used a resin coat instead.
Not for my application but if you spend more money and buy an additional resin with uv protection then that would be used only on the last few light layers. I planned on clear coating it so I didn’t buy it.
Foxcraze okay thank You ! I do full interior in carbon overlay too . I clear coat it too then sand it from 800-1000-2000 grit then I buff it with maguiars m105 and polish it after and it looks amazing . I always wanted to try a special top coat resin
When you put the carbon fibre and it's stuck in a wrong position of seen a guy use a heat gun to loosen the resin and make it more manageable maybe you can try that next time if it happens
@@Foxcraze did you end up keeping the carbon on the front lip? Any thoughts on post curing resin for exterior parts exposed to the sun? I haven’t seen a realistic way to diy this for a part this big and not many people talk about it.
It’s still there and surviving but I have yet to install it cause I wanna do more to it first. I think I’m gonna keep it, clear it and hope for the best and if it gets jacked I will sand and paint it. Short of putting it in the sun to cure or rolling over it with a heat gun forever I don’t know how to post cure something this big either or if it would even need it.
Carbon laminate is not for structure, it just cosmetic. Also, pressure doesn't give a strange to the carbon part, it help you spread the resin through the fabric easily and keep the fabric tight on the surface/mold.
Yeah prob so haha. I already had all the reg carbon all over the car so I stuck with it. I didnt test out the forged till after I did this unfortunately.
The reason you had issues was your layup was wrong. Carbon doesn't conform to sharp angles well especially when applied as dry as you applied yours. If you would have whetted it out it would have laid down better and small weave corrections would have been possible as well.
So don’t let it get that tacky? Or add another thin coat after the tack? Can you clarify whetted out, like apply resin to the carbon before I laid it down?
Why the mixing cup shape? 🤦😂 Laugh so hard on that one Tips: wet the fabric first than lay the fabric centre out, wait until tacky and give a second coat. You can learn by using thin fibreglass, so you can see how your technic work, usually you'll see a lot of air trap underneath or the resin doesn't spread well
Hahaha it was the first kit I found and I didn’t want to wait to get another so I took that heart shaped cup and got busy haha. thanks for that, I will be doing this again soon on some mirrors. I will def give that a go.
That’s because the bumper wasn’t being painted yet and had a lot more work to be done first. The purpose was skinning which was accomplished. Either way, have a great day!
Nicely done! Keep up the good content!
Appreciate it and most def will!!
I absolutely respect you giving this ago, I did a couple small parts years ago and it was a nightmare. I want to do my rear diffuser next but it's fairly large and a horrible shape. I felt really sorry for you when it went wrong but you should be proud of what you achieved for your first go.
Thanks for that man! It was a bit of a downer not gonna lie but I’m gonna rock it either way cause I am proud of what I have managed to do so far! I want to take a crack at more complex parts now that I have a basic idea of seaming different cloth pieces together. We shall see, have a great day!
@@Foxcraze I have a js racing rear diffuser on my fd2 civic, you can't buy it in carbon anymore so I'm thinking of skinning it.. the shape makes the job feel very daunting to me. Not sure it can be done on one piece of carbon sheet 🙄
Yeah that’s likely gonna need seamed at the fins and in the exhaust ports
@@Foxcraze this is going to suck! I think I'm going to use a pre impregnated carbon material so I can cut and seem it without too but ball ache.. wish me luck man 👍
Hell yeah, may the odds be ever in your favor good sir!
Good good for your 1st time
Appreciate that man!
You can easily repair the damaged areas by adding a new layer of carbon fiber on the damaged areas!!!
How would he match the weave?
@@cj94zj92sc I would assume he could ad a layer of epoxy, let it tack up on the entire lip and lay another 8ft piece of carbon.
Yeah that would be the easiest way. However, I’m 95% certain I’m gonna sand it down and do a layer of chopped carbon over it and then re-resin!
@@Foxcraze chopped carbon would be awesome. Good luck with the next project. I'm going to try making a lip for my car soon. Your video helped out alot!
Glad to hear it and best of luck in your project!!
For your first time doing that you actually did a damn good job bro
Thanks brother!! Engine compartment covers are next I think.
I’m still waiting on us to do my rear diffuser lol
Foxcraze hey would u b interested in trying something like that on my rear diffuser just let me know what the cost is
Let’s get it fitting first lol
Foxcraze u free Friday
Me again, lol I noticed you rolled the carbon out from one end, "scroll method" is where you find the center of the cloth and your substrate and roll out 10" to 12" on each side this locks your on the substrate from the center so the weave can follow contours. You had "bunching" at your corners access weave had nowhere to go but if you start at the center the weave will run to the edge
You are on a roll with these tips haha appreciate it. I’m gonna be doing this lip over in forged carbon I think to fix the issues I had due to this attempt.
Good content I'm doing the front clip of my solstice I have a ton of cool tricks but you've got the jist, just use scroll method and you with be good
Could also have done a pre layup wetout on the carbon weave itself, both totalboat and fiberglast typically recommend doing these kind of jobs that way to prevent bunching in the weave
Not gonna lie, I didn’t even know what the terms you just used meant when I did this project haha. I would have done it differently if I had it to do over again.
Good to know about weeve care doing mine but I'm laying a strip of kevler on bottom so if it scrapes won't damage carbon fibre (F1 cars have kevler skid pads just a idea)
Hell yeah, good to know about the Kevlar appreciate it!
A 'weave lock's carbon will usually not do as well going around corners and bends. Next time, try working from the center of the bumper and working out, that will prevent any distortion of the weave
I appreciate the tip, and will try it on future parts!
would this process work on individual pieces? Like doing it on a front lip or side skirts?
Yep same process. I’m gonna be doing engine bay plastics next! Be sure to subscribe for more!
Could have added a 2nd layer at either end to cover the messed up areas with the excess on the roll.
That’s true, at the time I didn’t know how to seam it and didn’t want to make it worse.
You could’ve left the edge carbon and painted the rest to cover the imperfections. Black lip with carbon edge would still look dope
That’s a great idea, and since I still haven’t painted this lip, that might be a good option haha
I think with a 2nd person to help put with the rollout this would have come out perfect
Yeah it would have def been easier lol. I’m gonna keep doing stuff and slowly get better!
@@Foxcraze like they say practice makes perfect. But that definitely looks like it came it super good regardless of the weave misshap there
@Ryno if not for the weave issue it would be damn near perfect super pleased with it! Prob gonna be doing engine bay plastics next!
i want to do this with my 370z v1 nismo front bumper
Go for it man!
its firts try
How come you Diddnt use the spray glue to hold the carbon in place ?
Since it will see a lot of UV light I didn’t wanna risk Delamination and heard the bond was better with resin over long term exposure so I used a resin coat instead.
If you don't have black dye can you just primer what ever ur using black?
I don’t see why that wouldn’t work as well, unless the resin reacts to the paint some how and causes it to lift from the part.
What brand and name was the dye called from hobby lobby thanks I will try this
No problem the brand is Alumilite and it’s called black opaque dye. It can be found in the epoxy mold making section!
You said you can either do the layers 2 hours apart or 8 hours apart. If I wait till 8, do I have to sand with 120 again?
That is correct! So if you can afford every 2 hours it’s def easiest!
@@Foxcraze thank you so much. Video was super helpful
No prob man!
Is the top resin coat a different type of resin ? Compared to all the other layers ? Thx
Not for my application but if you spend more money and buy an additional resin with uv protection then that would be used only on the last few light layers. I planned on clear coating it so I didn’t buy it.
Foxcraze okay thank You ! I do full interior in carbon overlay too . I clear coat it too then sand it from 800-1000-2000 grit then I buff it with maguiars m105 and polish it after and it looks amazing . I always wanted to try a special top coat resin
I might get it and use on another project and see how it last with out clear to compare and see if it’s actually worth the money.
Foxcraze that would be awesome thank you !
When you put the carbon fibre and it's stuck in a wrong position of seen a guy use a heat gun to loosen the resin and make it more manageable maybe you can try that next time if it happens
Anything is worth a try at least once thanks!
Would you say using epoxy as the adhesive is better than spray?
I would say yes just incase there is a thermal reaction that would cause the spray to release.
@@Foxcraze will try it tomorrow! My fabric literally skinned off clean. The spray didn’t even stick one bit. 😅
Hearing that is not surprising at all haha 😂 glad you were able to verify my thoughts on it lol
How much resin did you use in this process? Trying to gauge how much I need for a few projects.
I feel like I used about half the bottles which is around 8oz of resin and 4 oz of hardeners
@@Foxcraze did you end up keeping the carbon on the front lip? Any thoughts on post curing resin for exterior parts exposed to the sun? I haven’t seen a realistic way to diy this for a part this big and not many people talk about it.
It’s still there and surviving but I have yet to install it cause I wanna do more to it first. I think I’m gonna keep it, clear it and hope for the best and if it gets jacked I will sand and paint it. Short of putting it in the sun to cure or rolling over it with a heat gun forever I don’t know how to post cure something this big either or if it would even need it.
👍🏾👍🏾
put nice stiker there
That was my thought as well 😂
What did you use for cutting the excess off?
Heavy duty scissors for the large areas and a sharp box cutter for the tight corners and edges.
Carbon laminate is not strong. Its just strong when u cure it under pressure with a small amount of epoxy
Good to know, thanks!
Carbon laminate is not for structure, it just cosmetic. Also, pressure doesn't give a strange to the carbon part, it help you spread the resin through the fabric easily and keep the fabric tight on the surface/mold.
1st time will say 8 out of 10 some will do it worst
I appreciate it brother!
Maybe the carbon chips would have been an easier application?
Yeah prob so haha. I already had all the reg carbon all over the car so I stuck with it. I didnt test out the forged till after I did this unfortunately.
@@Foxcraze still came out nice though... I usually just do vinyl but that doesn't last forever
I appreciate that! I was gonna do carbon wrap but it just didn’t look authentic enough to match the real carbon already on the car.
@@Foxcraze it's hard to beat the real deal
For skinning, chopped more hard for me especially if it need perfectly tight fit because it more thicker than fabric, but still turn out great😀 try it
Not from experience but a lot of people crap the carbon fiber 24hrs in advance over the piece
I’m not following what you’re saying. They do what to the carbon fiber 24hrs in advance?
@@Foxcraze sorry, drape the material over and use a little tape to form the curves over night.
Oh that makes sense! Good point, will def look into that next time!
The reason you had issues was your layup was wrong. Carbon doesn't conform to sharp angles well especially when applied as dry as you applied yours. If you would have whetted it out it would have laid down better and small weave corrections would have been possible as well.
So don’t let it get that tacky? Or add another thin coat after the tack? Can you clarify whetted out, like apply resin to the carbon before I laid it down?
I would like to know what whetted out means as well
Obviously doesn't know because adds a reply then doesn't go into detail. What a time waster!
Why the mixing cup shape? 🤦😂 Laugh so hard on that one
Tips: wet the fabric first than lay the fabric centre out, wait until tacky and give a second coat.
You can learn by using thin fibreglass, so you can see how your technic work, usually you'll see a lot of air trap underneath or the resin doesn't spread well
Hahaha it was the first kit I found and I didn’t want to wait to get another so I took that heart shaped cup and got busy haha. thanks for that, I will be doing this again soon on some mirrors. I will def give that a go.
Really pisses me off at that it never shows the end result
That’s because the bumper wasn’t being painted yet and had a lot more work to be done first. The purpose was skinning which was accomplished. Either way, have a great day!