From someone who is a retired watch and clockmaker I would like to say, how nice it was to see a a fellow clockmaker who knows what he is doing. A great video well explained on how and why the repair was undertake in this way. A thumbs up from me.
Thanks Stanley, The designers of this simple part had to engineer it to very tight tolerances to maintain a good air clearance around it so it didn't touch the case during use.
What you're doing is a lost art - actually repairing and not remove and replace. Thanks for uploading these videos. Love the sound of the clocks in the background as well.
Thanks Winston, I have gotten use to working on a lot of older items older than this one. Many of them, rare, no other way to keep them running except to fabricate my own parts for them. Thanks again
@@winstonchurchill3597 Yes. I am usually several months out with jobs. You can contact me at jamesmart55@hotmail.com or give me a call anytime....509-868-2499
I suspect they tapered the stem of the gong to minimize the deadening effect of the anchor--to let the gong vibrate as much as possible. Very nice repair.
I know this is off topic. But do you know anything about French Morbier clocks and their animated Pendlums I have one that has a woman with a broom and the head that rocks back and forth is missing. Would you know where I can find parts? Thanks ! I love your videos.
I have worked on a couple in the past. Not able to advise on a parts source. You may need to fabricate the parts, do some air brushing to blend colors for a best match until a replacement can be found. That will most likely a tough part to find by itself.
Hi James, I've been watching your videos and I learn something new every time. I'm personally getting more & more into horology myself. I have many books on clock & watchmaking and many suggest different types of lubricants. For instance, in my, "Watch & Clockmakers' Handbook," by Britten (published in the early 1900's) specifies many clock & watchmakers used Porpoise, Olive oil, Sperm oil, or Neatfoot oil mixed with mineral oil. Now, synthetics are used. Just curious, what oils do you use on many of your clocks and watches?
@@jfidyk7412 Brands is something you will need to sort out, it can get confusing. I stick with name brands like NYE and Moebius that are labeled as so, I stay away from odd brands and generics. I have several different brands I have purchased through the years. I like M56-b, good oil with better anti-spread characteristics on steel than Moebius, entirely synthetic (ester), viscosity same as Moebius 9010 (polyglycol). PML 79, a good American watch oil developed by Hamilton, manufactured by Nye today, isn't as slippery as Elgin M56-b, it has the best anti-spread property of any oil I have used.
@@jamesmartin5370 Thanks!!! I actually recently bought a brass Chelsea, same size, has a ships helm detail around it. It's drenched in oil to a point where it's almost dripping plus when you try wind it, it starts to tick like normal. So who ever worked on it must have put the mainspring backwards.
@@jfidyk7412 The one above looked like someone oiled it without cleaning it at one time to get it working. Sounds like yours may have had some similar treatment. Are you going to dismantle it completely?
It you can hear the ratchet clicking and there is no resistance on key, problem is with the mainspring, need to open the mainspring barrel and inspect. If you can't hear the ratchet clicking, problem is with the ratchet mechanism, need to inspect the ratchet mechanism.
Amazing knowledge and talent, that what made this country great…..thank you very much for the video.
From someone who is a retired watch and clockmaker I would like to say, how nice it was to see a a fellow clockmaker who knows what he is doing. A great video well explained on how and why the repair was undertake in this way. A thumbs up from me.
Thanks Stanley,
The designers of this simple part had to engineer it to very tight tolerances to maintain a good air clearance around it so it didn't touch the case during use.
Great craftsmanship!!
What you're doing is a lost art - actually repairing and not remove and replace. Thanks for uploading these videos. Love the sound of the clocks in the background as well.
Thanks Winston,
I have gotten use to working on a lot of older items older than this one.
Many of them, rare, no other way to keep them running except to fabricate my own parts for them.
Thanks again
@@jamesmartin5370 Just curious do you accept Chelsea Clocks for repair? My Dad has one that probably could use a good cleaning.
@@winstonchurchill3597
Yes. I am usually several months out with jobs.
You can contact me at jamesmart55@hotmail.com
or give me a call anytime....509-868-2499
Thanks Jim. The repair looks rock solid and your detail work is amazing
That epoxy claims up to 5020 PSI strength, it will ever see that type of stress under normal operating conditions.
I suspect they tapered the stem of the gong to minimize the deadening effect of the anchor--to let the gong vibrate as much as possible. Very nice repair.
I agree, thanks Jim
Of all the kings horses and all the kings men, only Sir James could put it together again. And in a very conservative manner.
Very nice save James.
Thanks David.
Thank you.
I know this is off topic. But do you know anything about French Morbier clocks and their animated Pendlums I have one that has a woman with a broom and the head that rocks back and forth is missing. Would you know where I can find parts? Thanks ! I love your videos.
I have worked on a couple in the past.
Not able to advise on a parts source.
You may need to fabricate the parts, do some air brushing to blend colors for a best match until a replacement can be found.
That will most likely a tough part to find by itself.
thanks a lot
Gongs for these are next to impossible to find, this repair worked out great.
Hi James, I've been watching your videos and I learn something new every time. I'm personally getting more & more into horology myself. I have many books on clock & watchmaking and many suggest different types of lubricants. For instance, in my, "Watch & Clockmakers' Handbook," by Britten (published in the early 1900's) specifies many clock & watchmakers used Porpoise, Olive oil, Sperm oil, or Neatfoot oil mixed with mineral oil. Now, synthetics are used. Just curious, what oils do you use on many of your clocks and watches?
All synthetics.
@@jamesmartin5370 What brand of synthetic oil do you recommend/use?
@@jfidyk7412 Brands is something you will need to sort out, it can get confusing.
I stick with name brands like NYE and Moebius that are labeled as so, I stay away from odd brands and generics.
I have several different brands I have purchased through the years.
I like M56-b, good oil with better anti-spread characteristics on steel than Moebius, entirely synthetic (ester), viscosity same as Moebius 9010 (polyglycol).
PML 79, a good American watch oil developed by Hamilton, manufactured by Nye today, isn't as slippery as Elgin M56-b, it has the best anti-spread property of any oil I have used.
@@jamesmartin5370 Thanks!!! I actually recently bought a brass Chelsea, same size, has a ships helm detail around it. It's drenched in oil to a point where it's almost dripping plus when you try wind it, it starts to tick like normal. So who ever worked on it must have put the mainspring backwards.
@@jfidyk7412 The one above looked like someone oiled it without cleaning it at one time to get it working.
Sounds like yours may have had some similar treatment.
Are you going to dismantle it completely?
How do you get the cloks to restore
They are customers clocks.
@@jamesmartin5370 but how did the customer give it to you
@@bluebirdt3fe17 contact me at. jamesmart55@hotmail.com and send a couple images of it.
@@jamesmartin5370 how much the repair costs
@@bluebirdt3fe17they cost usually 200+
My Elgin bell clock won’t wind how do I fix that??
It you can hear the ratchet clicking and there is no resistance on key, problem is with the mainspring, need to open the mainspring barrel and inspect.
If you can't hear the ratchet clicking, problem is with the ratchet mechanism, need to inspect the ratchet mechanism.