Hey Bob, I've been watching your videos for years now and I truly appreciate your in depth presentations and the fact you leave politics and news out, to give us a place to go to get away from everything, have a Merry Christmas, take care
That vertical roll that seemed to occur about every 20 sec or so, could heater cathode leakage somewhere. That usually also causes a bar across the screen or horizontal shift that slowly moves from bottom to top. The difference between vertical sweep and power line frequency will shift by one cycle every 17 seconds.
I had a set with no sound at all which I think was my late 40's Philco bakelite set. While I was experimenting with it I found that if I put my fingers across one of the IF coils I got sound so I did a little alignment and sound is fine now.
Merry Christmas Bob, and thank you for these videos. I would add that you could have easily have checked the sound IF stage gains by just looking at each plate and seeing at least 10dB increase, as well as using the scope to look at the video IF plates/grids, etc. You're still lacking real gain - the set should sync strongly and the pic and sound should be strong too. Great video work and lighting. It's not easy to create these types of vids.
If I had a scope capable of accurately observing a low level 21.25MHz signal and I knew what the gain was supposed to be per stage. The set is performing similarly to other Admirals I have restored. This video is from seven years ago.
I would never trust those over the air converters. That might be why your sound cuts out. In addition to the other problems you mentioned. For me when I'm working on anything I use a VCR because I know that signal will be strong and constant and will not be changing.
@@cjay2 There is no setting in my profile. RUclips said that a creator option. And they said : "If you want turn off this feature : Turn off automatic dubbing for your channel Sign in to RUclips Studio on your computer. Click Settings and then Upload defaults and then Advanced settings. Uncheck the Allow automatic dubbing box. Click Save."
This is an awesome series. Do all these Admirals have the same audio IF? The 2 chassis thing is pretty neat too. Does that made it harder to get things accurate? I’ve never seen one in real life, but they are almost as cool as the VT-71’s! Lol! Happy holidays, Bob! I appreciate all the videoing you do, for sure.
Audio circuit was similar in the late 40s / early 50s models. Having the power supply on a separate chassis makes it easier to work on the main chassis. Less weight and more room
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Hey Bob, I've been watching your videos for years now and I truly appreciate your in depth presentations and the fact you leave politics and news out, to give us a place to go to get away from everything, have a Merry Christmas, take care
Nice work Bob, it's definitely coming along! Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas to you and your Family. Thank you for another great year.
Awesome job, Bob! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Merry Christmas Bob! Great job as always!
Bob nice Christmas present a new video. Nice just love your channel so exciting. THANK YOU SO MUCH. Mike
That vertical roll that seemed to occur about every 20 sec or so, could heater cathode leakage somewhere. That usually also causes a bar across the screen or horizontal shift that slowly moves from bottom to top. The difference between vertical sweep and power line frequency will shift by one cycle every 17 seconds.
I can see what you mean about these Admirals being good "beginner's" sets. Plenty of space to work around.
Merry Christmas to all ya'll
Merry Christmas. May Santa bring you lots of good tubes and high-voltage capacitors! 😅
I had a set with no sound at all which I think was my late 40's Philco bakelite set. While I was experimenting with it I found that if I put my fingers across one of the IF coils I got sound so I did a little alignment and sound is fine now.
Merry Christmas Bob, and thank you for these videos. I would add that you could have easily have checked the sound IF stage gains by just looking at each plate and seeing at least 10dB increase, as well as using the scope to look at the video IF plates/grids, etc. You're still lacking real gain - the set should sync strongly and the pic and sound should be strong too. Great video work and lighting. It's not easy to create these types of vids.
If I had a scope capable of accurately observing a low level 21.25MHz signal and I knew what the gain was supposed to be per stage. The set is performing similarly to other Admirals I have restored. This video is from seven years ago.
I hope Bob doesn’t try to use his arm to conduct the current from the horizontal output tube this episode. 😊
I would never trust those over the air converters. That might be why your sound cuts out. In addition to the other problems you mentioned. For me when I'm working on anything I use a VCR because I know that signal will be strong and constant and will not be changing.
There is nothing wrong with your television set, We are controlling the transmission....
I can't understand your videos anymore since you activate the automatic dubbing mode.
It's in french, with a bad translated robot voice.
This platform did that. Bob has no control over that. You should be able to go to the video settings and clean it all up.
@@cjay2 There is no setting in my profile.
RUclips said that a creator option. And they said : "If you want turn off this feature :
Turn off automatic dubbing for your channel
Sign in to RUclips Studio on your computer.
Click Settings and then Upload defaults and then Advanced settings.
Uncheck the Allow automatic dubbing box.
Click Save."
I didn't activate anything. RUclips may have changed something at their end
This is an awesome series. Do all these Admirals have the same audio IF? The 2 chassis thing is pretty neat too. Does that made it harder to get things accurate? I’ve never seen one in real life, but they are almost as cool as the VT-71’s! Lol! Happy holidays, Bob! I appreciate all the videoing you do, for sure.
Audio circuit was similar in the late 40s / early 50s models. Having the power supply on a separate chassis makes it easier to work on the main chassis. Less weight and more room