Akne u 30-im

Stres, hormonalne promene, podneblje u kojem živimo (naročito tropske vrućine), često izlaganje suncu, hrana…. utiču na izgled naše kože. Ali isto tako utiče i odabir kozmetike, rutina njene upotrebe, preterano tretiranje različitim aktivnim suspstancama (koje se reklamiraju uzduž i popreko- glycolic acid, azaleic acid, AHA-BHA…..) odabir kozmetičara/dermatologa.
U mom slučaju, razlog nastanka mojih kožnih problema je bio narušena prirodna barijera kože usled česte upotrebe aktivnih supstanci.
Moja rutina:
- Ujutro umijem lice sa mlakom vodom koristeći Cera Ve Hydrating Cleanser
(Naredno jutro bi umesto toga koristila Alba botanica Acne dote wash koji sadrži salicitnu kiselinu.)
Nakon toga hidriram lice sa Hada Labo lotion-super hydrator koji je bez mirisa i sadrži hijaluronsku kiselinu (svako treće jutro bi koristila malo masniju kremu, sa više prirodnog sadržaja od brenda Cera Ve ili Andalou koje sadrže ceramide, resveratrol, pa čak i neka ulja iako komedogena (zapušavaju pore) ali bitna za regeneraciju kože. Znači takvu kremu jače strukture i sadržaja bi ređe koristila.
- Popodne bi opet umila lice mlakom vodom bez ičega i namazala opet Hada Labo losion.
- Uveče bi umila lice sa pomenutim Cleanser-om i prvo nanela tanak sloj retinoid gela (retinoid- adapalen 0.1%), sačekala 5 min i nanela opet Hada Labo losion. Ovaj retinoid koristim svako treće veče kao cell turnover i taj dan se ne koristi nijedna druga aktivna supstanca niti se radi eksfolijacija kože.
** Još jedan neophodan korak u rutini nege kože uključuje blagi piling suvog epitela najviše dva puta nedeljno. Koristim St Ives nežni piling sa ovsenim pahuljicama.
**Ukoliko imate ekcem na koži tretirajte tu površinu kremom koja sadrži pantenol i/ili aloe veru. Izbegavajte aktivne supstance u tom području. Možete koristiti 7% panthenol + Vitamin E za hidrataciju i regeneraciju ispucale kože usled ekcema i dermatritisa.
**Ukoliko ste trudni, umesto retinoida možete koristiti Azelaic acid u obliku kreme.
Za više pitanja, možete ostaviti komentar dole :)
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Skin issues may arise from different reasons like stress, hormonal disbalance, the climate we live in (especially tropical heat), exposure to the sun, food.... The huge role plays the choice of cosmetics, the routine of its use, excessive treatment with various active substances such as glycolic, azelaic acid, AHA-BHA…the beautician/dermatologist also has an effect.
In my case, the cause of my skin problems was a damaged natural skin barrier due to the frequent use of active substances.
My routine:
- In the morning, I wash my face with lukewarm water using Cera Ve Hydrating Cleanser (The next morning, I would use Alba botanica Acne dote wash instead, which contains salicylic acid). After that I would hydrate my face with Hada Labo lotion-super hydrator which is fragrance free and contains hyaluronic acid (every third morning I would use a slightly oilier cream, with richer natural content from the brand Andalou containing resveratrol and some oils and butters although comedogenic (they clog pores), but essential for skin regeneration. I find that shea butter, jojoba, almond oil, urea really restore my lipid barrier by locking in the moisture. But like I said, I would use this kind of cream less often (every 3 days) in order to avoid cloged pores!
- In the afternoon, I would wash my face again with lukewarm water using nothing but water and then apply Hada Labo lotion again.
- In the evening, I would wash my face with the mentioned Cera Ve Cleanser and after that would first apply a thin layer of Differen gel (retinoid-adapalene 0.1%), wait 5 minutes and put Hada Labo lotion again. I would recommend using retinoid every 3 nights and on that day no other active substance should be used and skin should not be exfoliated that day, too.
** Another essential skincare routine step involves a gentle exfoliation or mild scrubbing of the build-up maximum two times a week. I use St Ives gentle scrub with oatmeal.
**If you have eczema on your skin, treat that area with a cream containing panthenol and/or aloe vera. Avoid active substances in the area. You can use 7% panthenol + Vitamin E for hydration and regeneration of chapped skin due to eczema and dermatitis.
** If you are pregnant, you can use Azelaic acid in cream form instead of retinoids.
For more questions, you can leave a comment below :)