I took two years of automotive trade school. I have been a lube technician for the better part of a year, and I still drop important stuff during oil changes.
When you're removing the oil drain plug, it helps if you just loosen it first, then take it out by hand. Makes it harder to lose in the oil pan so you don't have to go fishing around for it.
Congrats, I did the same back in 2021. It's a great car, reliable too if you treat it right. Only things that's gone bad on mine was the AC compressor.
Thanks for the tutorial. I was trying to figure out why the filters on Pelican look like the inner half of a filter, and your video makes it pretty clear!
Great guide, well paced :) Only things to bare in mind is there's a torque specification for the oil filter and it's good practise to clean the oil filter housing prior to refitting, thanks.
The drain plug on certain models is actually a triple square-please look carefully if you are a DIYer because you could easily strip it out as it can look like a hex
it will literally be gushed with oil within seconds of cranking the engine. the imagined "problematic" air in the filter goes into the crankcase where there already is a lot of air. dry sump.
very helpful video thanks dude! I only have one: the oil capacity of the dry sump system does not include the filter so it'll take that additional quarter quart.
Very nice. I've got exactly the same colour and 18 Inch Boxster-Wheels on my 2007 Cayman. Meanwhile, at 91000 km, I want to try the 5W50 Oil which is permitted by the Porsche A40 certifikate.
Hi such a nice video and nice information!!! So thankfull from Portugal!!! Tell me please.. In your opinion, its good to buy a cayman 2009 with 90000 miles now-a-days??
I store it by pushing them together and keeping it under my car. When I use them, I just pull them out from under. I'd say I use them like 6 times a year.
Any advice for removing a little oil after overfilling? I am considering removing the filter cap and dumping what’s in there, repeating as needed. I checked the oil level before putting it away for the winter and add a full quart. When checking the level afterwards it read high. Left it over the winter and plan to address it now. Started it up today and had a little smoke and old gas smell. I won’t drive until I drain some of the oil. The 2 right angle bends in the fill port prevent extraction from the top...
Oh man, I was going to recommend an $8 Harbor Freight fluid transfer pump before I read what you said about the 90 degree bends. I've never had to remove oil from this car, so that's good to know. I think there is a second oil filling location if you take the engine cover off - not sure if that has the same issue as the one in the trunk. Removing the filter cap and dumping it isn't a bad idea, but it would be messy and tedious.
@@AnthonyMassie so I removed the filter can, dumped what was in there, put it back on, ran the car for 10 seconds, and drained it again. After sitting the first can was about a third full the second was 2/3s. When I was done the oil reading was halfway between low and full. Worked perfectly.
@@kstoff2218 was going to recommended this. Next time however when adding oil after an oil change don’t be afraid to add a lot less and add along the way. My technician informed me that youre able to drive the car fine with 1.5 litres under the minimum
i doubt teh oil flows any faster with or without teh oil filler cap on. and if it flows faster, I would even recommend not removing it, cause last thing you need is high speed exxon valdez oil spil when the drain plug comes out initial flow is always good, and the last drain won't be affected by the filler cap anyway, cause the last drip has air via drain plug anyway note : First time you drain with a magnetic drainplug installed : you WILL find metal bits do not be alarmed, that is gunk that been in the sump since the factory days your next drain should be clear. 5m40 THAT IS NOT PERFECT, . If the segments are filled in up to the top line, the oil level has reached the maximum mark. You are underfilled ! Above minimum.. But not full, not perfect by any stretch. I actually drip fill the last bit, 50cc at a time, so the last bar fills up as well fill 50cc drive cool down check last bar not filled add 50cc drive, cool down check That way i know if my 987 burns oil or not. because if it looses that last bar, i know i lost 50cc 164000km, and in the 30000 km.. never has happened on mine zero burn loss Either way.. you are not filled up right
Or you remove the plug first, then the filler cap. No Valdez but the vacuum allows the flat-six to drain more completely, which takes longer than a V-design engine.
Nice video. 1. I like how clean your garage and work area is 2. How do you like the Quick Jack? I’m still trying to decide if I want that or a 4 post lift
Thanks! A 4 post lift makes it much easier to lift the car, and you can actually stand under it, so that's the way to go if you have the space. However, the QuickJack is fairly inexpensive and a big improvement to using a jack and stands.
hi just chiming in here... the reason I decided not to get a quick Jack is because of the lift height. I have two sets of 12 ton big red jack stands that lift up 20 in. the tonnage doesn't matter it's the size and height that I'm utilizing and these things are fantastic. the car is like 2 ft up off the ground and it's amazing for doing anything you need to do under the car including changing out the transmission.. the quick Jack just gets in the way.
My understanding is that you want the reading to be between the two arrows, and that above or below the arrows indicates too much or too little oil. If you're ever concerned about overfilling you can just get a transfer pump from Harbor Freight for $7, which will allow you to suck out some of the oil.
I think I'd have gone to the kitchen and gotten a pair of tongs to fish that extension out of the oil. How much weight will that jacking system hold? Is it expensive? Hope it's not Chinese. If it is you would get me under it!
This is just the QuickJack without extensions. I believe the extensions are made for trucks and SUVs; I don't think you could fit them under a sports car.
I always remove the drain plug first then open the oil filler cap or the oil will come gushing out; leave the filler cap open and wait at least 15 minutes for all the oil to drain as flat six engines take longer to drain. Always inspect the old oil filter and oil for metal shards which could be a sign of a serious problem. Adhere to the factory torque values for the plug and filter housing. Using some kind of hydraulic lift is way better than trying to set your Porsche onto the four factory lift points using a floor jack and lift stands. It is extremely difficult to line up the jack stands under the lift points evenly specifically because a floor jack lifts/lowers vertically while also moving horizontally. Even if you lower the car slowly and continue to re-position your jack stands under the lift points they won't sit evenly when the load increases because of the horizontal movement. The result could be disastrous for you and/or you're Porsche. If you cannot afford a hydraulic lift the only real solution is to use four scissor jacks (2-ton minimum) at each lift point. They have no horizontal movement and, as long as you lift each one incrementally, you won't have any tilt to deal with. Once you're at the desired height use jack stands at the frame members as a safety measure. Obviously, the stands won't be at the lift points, but they won't be under load either.
Wow thats easy. If u ever make Oil Change on A Hot Mitsubishi Pajero V6 be carefull there is a " Steel Protector " under the Motorblock be sure u Remove this " Steel Prrotection " its 4-6 Bolts only . If u dont Remove ths Protection u will Clean Some Liters old Oil, it happened 1 x to me a i was Younger uff everywhere Oil in my Jacket in My Pants in my Shoes on the Wall on the Floor everywhere Oil. I cleaned round 2 Hours the old Shitoil, then go home take a Shover damn i was Seriusly full of Oil.U know what my Boss said ? NOTHING i think he was happy i cleaned this shitoil away ufff
04:52 The Cayman requires 7.75 liters and around 8.25 quarts, but it looks like you put the right amount in.
"Dropping the drain plug, socket, and extension into the oil pan" is an essential step. I somehow manage to do it every time I change my oil.
I took two years of automotive trade school. I have been a lube technician for the better part of a year, and I still drop important stuff during oil changes.
When you're removing the oil drain plug, it helps if you just loosen it first, then take it out by hand. Makes it harder to lose in the oil pan so you don't have to go fishing around for it.
I just picked up a low mileage 2008 Cayman Base manual and love it! Thanks for the good video.
Congrats, I did the same back in 2021. It's a great car, reliable too if you treat it right. Only things that's gone bad on mine was the AC compressor.
Thanks for the tutorial. I was trying to figure out why the filters on Pelican look like the inner half of a filter, and your video makes it pretty clear!
Great video. Wiill be using this as reference for when i decide to have a go and do my own oil changes for my 2008 Cayman.Liked.
Great guide, well paced :) Only things to bare in mind is there's a torque specification for the oil filter and it's good practise to clean the oil filter housing prior to refitting, thanks.
Thinking about scooping one of these up soon. Thank you for this.
THOSE LIFTS ARE GORGEOUS!!! THE JLO of car jacks/lifts. WOW!😜
Great video. Thanks so much. Everything you need to know in 5 minutes instead of 30 minutes lol 🤘🏻
The drain plug on certain models is actually a triple square-please look carefully if you are a DIYer because you could easily strip it out as it can look like a hex
One thing I would recommend is to put fresh oil into the filter housing before replacing the oil filter housing on to the car. I’m a nerd🤓
it will literally be gushed with oil within seconds of cranking the engine. the imagined "problematic" air in the filter goes into the crankcase where there already is a lot of air. dry sump.
5w40 oil is recommended for older engines and to prevent bore scoring.
What should I run at 81,000 miles?
@@lastname-Nm Definitely 5w40 if you have an S model to avoid the dreaded bore score recommended by Hartech
very helpful video thanks dude! I only have one: the oil capacity of the dry sump system does not include the filter so it'll take that additional quarter quart.
Very nice. I've got exactly the same colour and 18 Inch Boxster-Wheels on my 2007 Cayman. Meanwhile, at 91000 km, I want to try the 5W50 Oil which is permitted by the Porsche A40 certifikate.
What is recommended OE? Do you live in a hot climate?
Hi such a nice video and nice information!!! So thankfull from Portugal!!! Tell me please.. In your opinion, its good to buy a cayman 2009 with 90000 miles now-a-days??
Definitely. These are very high quality cars that last a long time. Mine has about 125,000 miles and it's still running strong.
Watch Porsche Club America 987 buying guide.
This also applies to 987 boxster
Correct, should be exactly the same.
I reverse mine on to 2 ramps...wish it had a dip stick..
When I do mine I add oil to the filter
Not a bad idea.
comments are not complete without an argument about which oil to use. :)
Great tutorial. Thanks! I was wondering about the lift...how does it store, and how often do you use it?
I store it by pushing them together and keeping it under my car. When I use them, I just pull them out from under. I'd say I use them like 6 times a year.
@@AnthonyMassie Excellent. Thanks!
Nice video. I have the same color Cayman. I'm jealous of your "lobster claw" wheels. ;)
Those are not original lobster claw wheels
Anthony, where did you get the hydraulic lift?
I got lucky and picked it up on Costco for a discount. Otherwise, I'd suggest buying directly from QuickJack.
It looked like you were loosening the drain plug clockwise?
Hmm, definitely counterclockwise. Maybe when the footage is sped up, the frame rate creates the illusion that it’s turning the other way?
@@AnthonyMassie oh ok good, I was like is the camera backwards or something?
Where did you get your lift from and for how much
It’s a QuickJack BL-5000SLX that sells for around $1400, but I got mine on sale at Costco a couple years ago for $999.
Any advice for removing a little oil after overfilling? I am considering removing the filter cap and dumping what’s in there, repeating as needed. I checked the oil level before putting it away for the winter and add a full quart. When checking the level afterwards it read high. Left it over the winter and plan to address it now. Started it up today and had a little smoke and old gas smell. I won’t drive until I drain some of the oil. The 2 right angle bends in the fill port prevent extraction from the top...
Oh man, I was going to recommend an $8 Harbor Freight fluid transfer pump before I read what you said about the 90 degree bends. I've never had to remove oil from this car, so that's good to know. I think there is a second oil filling location if you take the engine cover off - not sure if that has the same issue as the one in the trunk. Removing the filter cap and dumping it isn't a bad idea, but it would be messy and tedious.
@@AnthonyMassie so I removed the filter can, dumped what was in there, put it back on, ran the car for 10 seconds, and drained it again. After sitting the first can was about a third full the second was 2/3s. When I was done the oil reading was halfway between low and full. Worked perfectly.
@@kstoff2218 was going to recommended this. Next time however when adding oil after an oil change don’t be afraid to add a lot less and add along the way. My technician informed me that youre able to drive the car fine with 1.5 litres under the minimum
i doubt teh oil flows any faster with or without teh oil filler cap on.
and if it flows faster, I would even recommend not removing it, cause last thing you need is high speed exxon valdez oil spil when the drain plug comes out
initial flow is always good, and the last drain won't be affected by the filler cap anyway, cause the last drip has air via drain plug anyway
note : First time you drain with a magnetic drainplug installed : you WILL find metal bits
do not be alarmed, that is gunk that been in the sump since the factory days
your next drain should be clear.
5m40 THAT IS NOT PERFECT,
. If the segments are filled in up to the top line,
the oil level has reached the maximum mark.
You are underfilled ! Above minimum.. But not full, not perfect by any stretch.
I actually drip fill the last bit, 50cc at a time, so the last bar fills up as well
fill 50cc
drive cool down check
last bar not filled
add 50cc
drive, cool down check
That way i know if my 987 burns oil or not.
because if it looses that last bar, i know i lost 50cc 164000km, and in the 30000 km.. never has happened on mine zero burn loss
Either way.. you are not filled up right
Or you remove the plug first, then the filler cap. No Valdez but the vacuum allows the flat-six to drain more completely, which takes longer than a V-design engine.
what jack/lift are you using, and is a safe?
It’s called a QuickJack. I’d say it’s safer than jack stands, as it is much heavier, has a wider footprint, and features a mechanical lockout.
Nice video.
1. I like how clean your garage and work area is
2. How do you like the Quick Jack? I’m still trying to decide if I want that or a 4 post lift
Thanks! A 4 post lift makes it much easier to lift the car, and you can actually stand under it, so that's the way to go if you have the space. However, the QuickJack is fairly inexpensive and a big improvement to using a jack and stands.
hi just chiming in here... the reason I decided not to get a quick Jack is because of the lift height. I have two sets of 12 ton big red jack stands that lift up 20 in. the tonnage doesn't matter it's the size and height that I'm utilizing and these things are fantastic. the car is like 2 ft up off the ground and it's amazing for doing anything you need to do under the car including changing out the transmission.. the quick Jack just gets in the way.
@@Aeneas137 good points. I ended up getting a 4 post :-).
Question, if the oil level says that its above the line does it mean you over filled?
My understanding is that you want the reading to be between the two arrows, and that above or below the arrows indicates too much or too little oil. If you're ever concerned about overfilling you can just get a transfer pump from Harbor Freight for $7, which will allow you to suck out some of the oil.
I think I'd have gone to the kitchen and gotten a pair of tongs to fish that extension out of the oil.
How much weight will that jacking system hold? Is it expensive? Hope it's not Chinese. If it is you would get me under it!
It’s a QuickJack BL-5000SLX rated at 5000 lbs. Costs about $1400, and is manufactured by Bendpak in China.
Have the same car in the same colour even the exhaust pipes seem like they’re the same lol
You have excellent taste!
O nível de óleo ficou abaixo da marcação.
The top line is the max line; going above it means the engine is overfilled. Anywhere above the middle line is good.
Nice! Is the quickjack with extensions to extend the lifting height, or is this the basic edition?
This is just the QuickJack without extensions. I believe the extensions are made for trucks and SUVs; I don't think you could fit them under a sports car.
using a tork wrench while the treads are lubricated will give you a lower tork than set.
🤩
I always remove the drain plug first then open the oil filler cap or the oil will come gushing out; leave the filler cap open and wait at least 15 minutes for all the oil to drain as flat six engines take longer to drain. Always inspect the old oil filter and oil for metal shards which could be a sign of a serious problem. Adhere to the factory torque values for the plug and filter housing. Using some kind of hydraulic lift is way better than trying to set your Porsche onto the four factory lift points using a floor jack and lift stands. It is extremely difficult to line up the jack stands under the lift points evenly specifically because a floor jack lifts/lowers vertically while also moving horizontally. Even if you lower the car slowly and continue to re-position your jack stands under the lift points they won't sit evenly when the load increases because of the horizontal movement. The result could be disastrous for you and/or you're Porsche. If you cannot afford a hydraulic lift the only real solution is to use four scissor jacks (2-ton minimum) at each lift point. They have no horizontal movement and, as long as you lift each one incrementally, you won't have any tilt to deal with. Once you're at the desired height use jack stands at the frame members as a safety measure. Obviously, the stands won't be at the lift points, but they won't be under load either.
Why is the oil described as "European car formula"? 😂😂😂😂
Wow thats easy. If u ever make Oil Change on A Hot Mitsubishi Pajero V6 be carefull there is a " Steel Protector " under the Motorblock be sure u Remove this " Steel Prrotection " its 4-6 Bolts only . If u dont Remove ths Protection u will Clean Some Liters old Oil, it happened 1 x to me a i was Younger uff everywhere Oil in my Jacket in My Pants in my Shoes on the Wall on the Floor everywhere Oil. I cleaned round 2 Hours the old Shitoil, then go home take a Shover damn i was Seriusly full of Oil.U know what my Boss said ? NOTHING i think he was happy i cleaned this shitoil away ufff