I recently reached my one year mark with this AOS. I'm going to be removing it. My engine is healthy at 330whp/351wtq (up to 350whp/400wtq), and I've taken advice from Chris himself on how it should be installed, including your recommended rear turbo inlet hose location. It's not working as good as I'd like, compared to my previous setup. You have the exact same questions about the design and how it could be inefficient at separating oil vapors. Thanks for sharing this. I'll be sharing my alternate solution soon!
Thanks for watching this, and for reaching out to us to discuss what you are seeing as well. I am definitely looking forward to seeing your results with your new set-up.
Thanks for the video. For next season, i am also improving suspension brakes, and wheel/tires to improve laptimes. I chose fhe ast 5200, reverting back to stock s209 brake setup, and will try out a055 slicks with bbs 18" wheels. In fact, for power, i am working with my tuner to make my power band more linear for more confidence inspired driving on track. Thanks for the content!
Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. After this install, we put on the 3MI Drain Hose, and that helped a bunch. That is the latest that we have at the moment. ruclips.net/video/vkn7k2yMO2w/видео.htmlsi=QLFKot-VTeVQaFNR Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
It seems like its drainage problems would be fixed by draining to the turbo oil outlet but I'm curious why they don't pull the vacuum from the turbo inlet and intake manifold with two check valves vs Subaru's oem one valve so its always vented to the one with the lower pressure
Looks like KillerB took inspiration from large-scale cyclone pre-cleaners used to reduce air pollution in particle production applications like talc and borax, grain, etc. Now I’m a civil/environmental engineer, not a mechy like Chris at KillerB so I couldn’t design one of these in a PCV application. But I do know cyclones are better suited to depositing large and heavy particles from air. I don’t see how well the cyclone applies to crankcase vapors to be honest. Maybe KillerB’s design uses a non-heated AOS body to condense the vapors into droplets? That would help the blowby actually separate from the air. The cyclone however is good at maintaining a low pressure drop, which is advantageous in pulling those vapors out of the crankcase This AOS is a fantastic looking piece that’s probably suited to cars with less blowby, but might not have sufficient volume for those gross oil burners The podcast is excellent btw guys, keep it up!
I've sent Chris some power point slides and explained why the AOS doesn't work as they claim. The AOS body is too short and the center outlet too large and sits way too low into the AOS body. There are too many obstacles (protruding tubes and cyclonic vanes) in the AOS limiting tangential gases to produce enough centrifugal as (well as centripetal) forces to separate oil from the air. The drain is also flawed as there are 4 bowls machined above the actual drain hole where oil can sit and be drawn up by the center outlet. The threads of the bottom 90 degree fitting protrudes above the drain hole, also leaving oil to accumulate and be sucked up.
OCTurboJoe I have been running this AOS since your first video on it, what I did when I realized it might be passing is I stuffed some steel scotch brite inside the return tube, seems to reduce the amount of oil passing, and I noticed a considerable reduction in knock feedback 😄. What is your view on that 🤔 Have to say that my engine is built with loose ring gaps than stock, but I am still only pushing 300 whp and 330 wtq @ 19 psi.
@@abdelrahmanalqasmy4733 I thought of doing that but instead added a small Radium catch can that caught everything it allowed past its outlet. I didn't pay for a $600 AOS to add a $2 part to reduce the oil bypass, much less another $180 catch can to fully stop the oil bypass.
@@octurbojoe I wish you'd worked with us per the e-mails I set. Your reviews were good until you changed the setup in a way it was not meant to be run; VTA through the head ports and capping the AOS head ports. That's going to cause problems.
@@KillerBMotorsport The redirected head ports from the OCV were only ran for a couple of days prior to replacing the AOS. I experienced zero issues or change in my long term fuel trims since the car was tuned without a PCV valve.
I still haven't seen a solution that could be marketed as the best AOS for EJ series - everyone seems to have their downsides. Have you guys seen one that just actually works as advertised? Keeps the air intake dry, pulls vapor out, doesnt condense / collect water vapor...? I'd buy something that matches those criteria in a heart beat.
Thanks for your question. That is tricky. The PCV system is definitely complex, and the AOS in some cases brings a little of its own complexity to the system for sure. We are still working on and testing solutions out there, and if we ever find the perfect one, we'll be sure to let you know. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Since the unit doesn't utilize coolant lines, do you think that could cause a problem with more condensed water and fuel in the oil that will be returning to the engine?
bigeggroll I suspect KillerB made that design decision for 1) simplicity and 2) to condense the crankcase vapors in the cyclone-like AOS body. Look for my other comment if you want to learn more. Also oil at operating temperature will evaporate any water and fuel that returns to the sump anyway
It is possible, but we may have to get some more miles on the car to see if we can see any result of that. I think that for a track car, where the engine is going to get up to and maintain operating temperature for a long time, this will be less of an issue. On a street car that may not get up to that temperature and maintain it for a long time, this could be more of an issue. I will say that we were running the IAG AOS without coolant on our PPIHC car for a while without coolant and we had no issues with build-up, or condensation in the oil. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Unlikely. The unit see's 240° internal temperatures just from daily driving. Blow-by gasses are HOT. Condensation is a problem in the lines more than anything. Really cold temps and short drives are what can cause issues. We have a cold weather kit to address this. This is also noted in the factory service manual even for the factory setup.
All in good time. It should be shipped here in the next week or two, and we are all ready prepping the engine so that we can go right to installing it when it gets here. Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. If your car is completely stock, most likely you don't need an AOS. I'd say keep an eye on how much oil you are using (if any), and go from there. Honestly, on a stock car that is daily driven, the best thing you can do is to use a good quality oil and just keep an eye on your consumption. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. Those are actually some GD mirrors that were lying around that Scotty made to fit his car, so unfortunately they are custom made at this point.
My OCC catches about 200ml in 3 weeks of water during the winter but I drain it manually. With an oil separator, if you drain it to the cranckcase it may contaminate the oil pretty quickly That’s because while the tank is cold it condenates water.
I would like to see a side by side comparison and test of this unit against the IAG
I recently reached my one year mark with this AOS. I'm going to be removing it.
My engine is healthy at 330whp/351wtq (up to 350whp/400wtq), and I've taken advice from Chris himself on how it should be installed, including your recommended rear turbo inlet hose location. It's not working as good as I'd like, compared to my previous setup. You have the exact same questions about the design and how it could be inefficient at separating oil vapors.
Thanks for sharing this. I'll be sharing my alternate solution soon!
OCTurboJoe glad to see you on here! Love your content, always detailed and informative
@@MrBillDaBear I've been following Jon for a long time. Lots of valuable information here.
OCTurboJoe We have been waiting for your alternate solution for a long time 😄
@@abdelrahmanalqasmy4733 It's already installed and undergoing testing. 😉
Thanks for watching this, and for reaching out to us to discuss what you are seeing as well. I am definitely looking forward to seeing your results with your new set-up.
Can you guys do a review for the IAG AOS?
Thanks for the video. For next season, i am also improving suspension brakes, and wheel/tires to improve laptimes. I chose fhe ast 5200, reverting back to stock s209 brake setup, and will try out a055 slicks with bbs 18" wheels. In fact, for power, i am working with my tuner to make my power band more linear for more confidence inspired driving on track. Thanks for the content!
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Definitely sounds like a fun set-up and hope that the AST 5200's work out well for you.
Stay Tuned!
Just came across your channel... cool to see some local Colorado shops👍
Nice! thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Podcast and these videos are what keep me going... :P
Thanks Keith. Stay Tuned!
Any updates on this Killer B AOS?
Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. After this install, we put on the 3MI Drain Hose, and that helped a bunch.
That is the latest that we have at the moment.
ruclips.net/video/vkn7k2yMO2w/видео.htmlsi=QLFKot-VTeVQaFNR
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
I got tired of trying to choose between this and iag aos. I'm going Provent 200. Good enough for the desert good enough for my use.
It seems like its drainage problems would be fixed by draining to the turbo oil outlet but I'm curious why they don't pull the vacuum from the turbo inlet and intake manifold with two check valves vs Subaru's oem one valve so its always vented to the one with the lower pressure
Looks like KillerB took inspiration from large-scale cyclone pre-cleaners used to reduce air pollution in particle production applications like talc and borax, grain, etc. Now I’m a civil/environmental engineer, not a mechy like Chris at KillerB so I couldn’t design one of these in a PCV application. But I do know cyclones are better suited to depositing large and heavy particles from air.
I don’t see how well the cyclone applies to crankcase vapors to be honest. Maybe KillerB’s design uses a non-heated AOS body to condense the vapors into droplets? That would help the blowby actually separate from the air. The cyclone however is good at maintaining a low pressure drop, which is advantageous in pulling those vapors out of the crankcase
This AOS is a fantastic looking piece that’s probably suited to cars with less blowby, but might not have sufficient volume for those gross oil burners
The podcast is excellent btw guys, keep it up!
I've sent Chris some power point slides and explained why the AOS doesn't work as they claim. The AOS body is too short and the center outlet too large and sits way too low into the AOS body. There are too many obstacles (protruding tubes and cyclonic vanes) in the AOS limiting tangential gases to produce enough centrifugal as (well as centripetal) forces to separate oil from the air.
The drain is also flawed as there are 4 bowls machined above the actual drain hole where oil can sit and be drawn up by the center outlet. The threads of the bottom 90 degree fitting protrudes above the drain hole, also leaving oil to accumulate and be sucked up.
OCTurboJoe I have been running this AOS since your first video on it, what I did when I realized it might be passing is I stuffed some steel scotch brite inside the return tube, seems to reduce the amount of oil passing, and I noticed a considerable reduction in knock feedback 😄. What is your view on that 🤔 Have to say that my engine is built with loose ring gaps than stock, but I am still only pushing 300 whp and 330 wtq @ 19 psi.
@@abdelrahmanalqasmy4733 I thought of doing that but instead added a small Radium catch can that caught everything it allowed past its outlet. I didn't pay for a $600 AOS to add a $2 part to reduce the oil bypass, much less another $180 catch can to fully stop the oil bypass.
@@octurbojoe I wish you'd worked with us per the e-mails I set. Your reviews were good until you changed the setup in a way it was not meant to be run; VTA through the head ports and capping the AOS head ports. That's going to cause problems.
@@KillerBMotorsport The redirected head ports from the OCV were only ran for a couple of days prior to replacing the AOS. I experienced zero issues or change in my long term fuel trims since the car was tuned without a PCV valve.
I got this when it came out they painted it black for me cause I didn’t want a chrome cone in my engine bay lol never had any problems with it
Very glad to hear it. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Great info video👍 always waiting for new ones
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I still haven't seen a solution that could be marketed as the best AOS for EJ series - everyone seems to have their downsides. Have you guys seen one that just actually works as advertised? Keeps the air intake dry, pulls vapor out, doesnt condense / collect water vapor...?
I'd buy something that matches those criteria in a heart beat.
Thanks for your question. That is tricky. The PCV system is definitely complex, and the AOS in some cases brings a little of its own complexity to the system for sure.
We are still working on and testing solutions out there, and if we ever find the perfect one, we'll be sure to let you know.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Would like to see the a lot more content.
Since the unit doesn't utilize coolant lines, do you think that could cause a problem with more condensed water and fuel in the oil that will be returning to the engine?
bigeggroll I suspect KillerB made that design decision for 1) simplicity and 2) to condense the crankcase vapors in the cyclone-like AOS body. Look for my other comment if you want to learn more. Also oil at operating temperature will evaporate any water and fuel that returns to the sump anyway
It is possible, but we may have to get some more miles on the car to see if we can see any result of that. I think that for a track car, where the engine is going to get up to and maintain operating temperature for a long time, this will be less of an issue. On a street car that may not get up to that temperature and maintain it for a long time, this could be more of an issue.
I will say that we were running the IAG AOS without coolant on our PPIHC car for a while without coolant and we had no issues with build-up, or condensation in the oil.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Unlikely. The unit see's 240° internal temperatures just from daily driving. Blow-by gasses are HOT. Condensation is a problem in the lines more than anything. Really cold temps and short drives are what can cause issues. We have a cold weather kit to address this. This is also noted in the factory service manual even for the factory setup.
Where was MAP 2 reading? Was that simply the outlet line on the AOS?
Thanks for your question. We were reading pressure off of an adapted oil filler cap.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
I want videos on the dry sump!
All in good time. It should be shipped here in the next week or two, and we are all ready prepping the engine so that we can go right to installing it when it gets here.
Stay Tuned!
FlatironsTuning can’t wait! Best mechanical education on RUclips.
Thanks for the video!
What AOS would your recommend then for a 2020 sti that currently is stock?
Thanks for your question. If your car is completely stock, most likely you don't need an AOS. I'd say keep an eye on how much oil you are using (if any), and go from there. Honestly, on a stock car that is daily driven, the best thing you can do is to use a good quality oil and just keep an eye on your consumption.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Yassss! More Subie content! 🍻
Just the tip of the proverbial iceberg :-) Stay Tuned!
Can you source those side mirrors on that STi?
Thanks for your question. Those are actually some GD mirrors that were lying around that Scotty made to fit his car, so unfortunately they are custom made at this point.
My OCC catches about 200ml in 3 weeks of water during the winter
but I drain it manually. With an oil separator, if you drain it to the cranckcase it may contaminate the oil pretty quickly
That’s because while the tank is cold it condenates water.