It's always fun when a job takes longer than expected, especially when you realize you still have to do the other side. That anti-seize is amazing. I watched you use it and when I got up it was all over my hands, the laptop and the couch!
I know. I’d go broke if I was a flat rate mechanic. The other side went a bit faster so that helped. I should have put a never seize disclaimer up. May cause silvering of everything within arms reach. 😁
I wish they had a slip on design like the front or the single wheel axle does. I can only assume with the inner wheel there isn’t enough room to do that.
The moment a person touches the anti-seize bottle is the moment it gets on your shirt, pants just everywhere. Even when you try to prevent it from spreading it's just incredible how that stuff ends up everywhere. I'm happy to learn you serviced the differential fluid off camera. When the axel was removed what dripped out looked watery. I always ensure axel vents are clear, protects axel seals, and if they need a water trap added because the owner is going to pull a boat that I add a water trap.
I know never seize is like glitter. 😁 There was a little water in the rear but not very much, maybe like a teaspoon or less. When I changed the rear brake hose the vent broke off and I had to replace it but it was plugged. I almost didn’t change the fluid but I thought back to the incredibly poor maintenance on the rest of the truck and decided it was probably necessary and I’m glad I did.
The truck is coming along nicely. I also pack the wheel bearings with a little grease on the full floating rear ends. I figure it gives them initial lubrication until the gear oil makes its way through the axle tubes. I've also used anti-seize on certain brake parts. There seems to be quite a debate amongst the different techs that I follow on RUclips when it comes to brake lubes. Local climates affect the performance of it. I don't understand why manufacturers put the parking brake adjustment holes in inaccessible places. I always wanted so get one of those "safe-set" drum brake gauges. Dorman products are hit and miss. I have a love/hate relationship with them. I came up with the slogan "Dorman. Stranding motorists and frustrating technicians since 1918".
Thank you. I’ve seen the brake lube debate myself. I’ve tried the ceramic brake lube and had brake issues the next winter and the brake lube was gone. I’ve just had better luck with the never seize not that it’s that great either. It does seem like the parking brakes are an afterthought on these axles. I think I got it though they are working well and I do like the brake gauge better than adjusting them without it. It’s not a foolproof measurement but I think better than guessing how much drag is enough. I try and not get dorman stuff but sometimes it’s the only option, they worked this time though.
One thing I didn’t know about shoes, is old school mechanics widen or shorten the shoe arc to match the inside arc in the drum. They would use a block of wood and a 2lb hammer. You would think the shoes would break loose of the bracket, haven’t tried it lately but that process isn’t used anymore. On regular drum brakes the shoes wear even.
Thank you for creating the video and sharing your project. I think you did a wonderful job. Working on the ground is difficult. The labor you saved will help the family. Will you be servicing the differential lubricant? Take care, Daniel
Thank you. I did miss the lift at work. I changed the differential fluid in the front and rear, I didn’t record it though. I’m glad I did I found some rust on the inside of the rear housing at the top I had to get out and some sludge at the bottom. The front looked good. I think they were rebuilt at some point there was writing on the carriers and gears in a paint pen or something like that. There is around 250k on them so I think some work was done. I also found it has a locker in the rear too.
GREAT video!! New 03 dually owner. I want to care for my truck myself. Your videos allows me to! Question. When u put the axle back on with the paper gasket, what did u torque the bolts too?
Great video. One of my favorites that you have done. One comment from me is that I always do my final lug nut torque with the wheels on the ground. My concern is that when you torque with the wheels in the air you are placing a lot of shear tension on the parking break pawl. Maybe my idea is wrong. Thank you. Craig
Thank you. Glad to hear you liked it. I haven’t myself had an issue with the parking pawl. I try and torque with the wheels off the ground or touching enough to keep the wheel from spinning because with the lug centric wheels I always though with weight on them it would put side pressure on the cone of the lug nut and cause a false torque reading. I don’t know if that’s right but just how I’ve done it. In the axle the differential will work opposite when applying torque to the wheels as opposed to the drive shaft so the 3.73 gearing from the engine to the wheels will go opposite and apply less torque to the engine. So in first you get more torque and less speed from the engine to the wheels but speed less torque from the wheels to the engine. 3.73:1 or 1:3.73. I don’t know if I explained that well.
Excellent instructional video, and the best part using 64" will make the metric folks nuts. What everyone else said about the anti seize. Is that a Dana 80?
😁 I guess metric is supposed to be easier but I’m more used to sae myself. I guess the plus’s to everything going to metric is I can use one set of tools and cut what I bring in half. The axle is a 11.5 AAM. They are used on the gm trucks also.
There is one hub seal, an inner and an outer bearing (they are different), and an axle flange seal per side so you will need two of everything to do the whole axle. The parts are also different for a dually or single wheel axle also.
I have a few videos on the frame in the playlist. 03 Cummins 5.9 seized engine rebuild and frame and body swap ruclips.net/p/PLRbLKd2i_Uy50fS6kTW0WsSFGpH3ADTuo I went to North Carolina and picked up a basically rust free frame. I then sand blasted it and painted it with southern polyurethanes epoxy primer. I swapped the cab with a Texas cab also.
Not that I’m aware of. I bought this truck with a seized engine and rebuilt it. While I was rebuilding it I started to notice some rust issues with the cab that I knew were going to get ugly so I decided to replace the whole cab. I’m not really sure how the water got in the axle but this was the most poorly maintained vehicle I’ve ever seen. Literally every part on this truck had evidence of someone working on it that just made it worse. I have a playlist on the process if your interested. 03 Cummins 5.9 seized engine rebuild and frame and body swap ruclips.net/p/PLRbLKd2i_Uy50fS6kTW0WsSFGpH3ADTuo
do your airbag recall , i got a stop driving note on my door yesterday . it free at dodge dealer or they will come to your house and do it , 2003 models
It's always fun when a job takes longer than expected, especially when you realize you still have to do the other side.
That anti-seize is amazing. I watched you use it and when I got up it was all over my hands, the laptop and the couch!
I know. I’d go broke if I was a flat rate mechanic. The other side went a bit faster so that helped. I should have put a never seize disclaimer up. May cause silvering of everything within arms reach. 😁
Anti-seize is the glitter equivalent of the mechanical world. Just like herpes-can never get rid if it.
This is exactly what I’m up against tomorrow… all for dust covers! So much work. Great video man thanks for this!
I wish they had a slip on design like the front or the single wheel axle does. I can only assume with the inner wheel there isn’t enough room to do that.
Amazing video man. By far you are the most informative mechanic I’ve ever watched. Thank you
Nice work as usual Jason. Thanks for another great video.
The moment a person touches the anti-seize bottle is the moment it gets on your shirt, pants just everywhere. Even when you try to prevent it from spreading it's just incredible how that stuff ends up everywhere. I'm happy to learn you serviced the differential fluid off camera. When the axel was removed what dripped out looked watery. I always ensure axel vents are clear, protects axel seals, and if they need a water trap added because the owner is going to pull a boat that I add a water trap.
I know never seize is like glitter. 😁 There was a little water in the rear but not very much, maybe like a teaspoon or less. When I changed the rear brake hose the vent broke off and I had to replace it but it was plugged. I almost didn’t change the fluid but I thought back to the incredibly poor maintenance on the rest of the truck and decided it was probably necessary and I’m glad I did.
The truck is coming along nicely. I also pack the wheel bearings with a little grease on the full floating rear ends. I figure it gives them initial lubrication until the gear oil makes its way through the axle tubes. I've also used anti-seize on certain brake parts. There seems to be quite a debate amongst the different techs that I follow on RUclips when it comes to brake lubes. Local climates affect the performance of it. I don't understand why manufacturers put the parking brake adjustment holes in inaccessible places. I always wanted so get one of those "safe-set" drum brake gauges. Dorman products are hit and miss. I have a love/hate relationship with them. I came up with the slogan "Dorman. Stranding motorists and frustrating technicians since 1918".
Thank you. I’ve seen the brake lube debate myself. I’ve tried the ceramic brake lube and had brake issues the next winter and the brake lube was gone. I’ve just had better luck with the never seize not that it’s that great either. It does seem like the parking brakes are an afterthought on these axles. I think I got it though they are working well and I do like the brake gauge better than adjusting them without it. It’s not a foolproof measurement but I think better than guessing how much drag is enough. I try and not get dorman stuff but sometimes it’s the only option, they worked this time though.
One thing I didn’t know about shoes, is old school mechanics widen or shorten the shoe arc to match the inside arc in the drum. They would use a block of wood and a 2lb hammer. You would think the shoes would break loose of the bracket, haven’t tried it lately but that process isn’t used anymore. On regular drum brakes the shoes wear even.
That’s interesting. I don’t get into drum brakes much anymore, except for the big truck brakes.
Thank you for creating the video and sharing your project. I think you did a wonderful job. Working on the ground is difficult. The labor you saved will help the family. Will you be servicing the differential lubricant? Take care, Daniel
Thank you. I did miss the lift at work. I changed the differential fluid in the front and rear, I didn’t record it though. I’m glad I did I found some rust on the inside of the rear housing at the top I had to get out and some sludge at the bottom. The front looked good. I think they were rebuilt at some point there was writing on the carriers and gears in a paint pen or something like that. There is around 250k on them so I think some work was done. I also found it has a locker in the rear too.
Perfect
GREAT video!! New 03 dually owner. I want to care for my truck myself. Your videos allows me to! Question. When u put the axle back on with the paper gasket, what did u torque the bolts too?
Thank you. Glad I could help. The axle flange bolts are torqued to 95 ftlbs.
Great job brother...I TOO Hate parking brakes/e brake jobs!!!
Thank you. I think it went a bit easier with the tool this time. I got the cables in and they seem to work fine.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic Definitely the tool helped!!
I would have had to clean the rust off those leaf springs and rims and painted.
The rest of the truck is still pretty bad ass.
Thank you. Yeah i regret not blasting and painting the front and rear springs, but I did get new wheels and tires.
Good step by step thurough enough for the average Joe to save a bit of cash and do it his or herself. Thanx for the steady camera work to.
Thank you. I appreciate you watching.
Great video. One of my favorites that you have done. One comment from me is that I always do my final lug nut torque with the wheels on the ground. My concern is that when you torque with the wheels in the air you are placing a lot of shear tension on the parking break pawl. Maybe my idea is wrong. Thank you. Craig
Thank you. Glad to hear you liked it. I haven’t myself had an issue with the parking pawl. I try and torque with the wheels off the ground or touching enough to keep the wheel from spinning because with the lug centric wheels I always though with weight on them it would put side pressure on the cone of the lug nut and cause a false torque reading. I don’t know if that’s right but just how I’ve done it. In the axle the differential will work opposite when applying torque to the wheels as opposed to the drive shaft so the 3.73 gearing from the engine to the wheels will go opposite and apply less torque to the engine. So in first you get more torque and less speed from the engine to the wheels but speed less torque from the wheels to the engine. 3.73:1 or 1:3.73. I don’t know if I explained that well.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic Okay. Thank you. Kind Regards, Craig
Excellent instructional video, and the best part using 64" will make the metric folks nuts. What everyone else said about the anti seize. Is that a Dana 80?
😁 I guess metric is supposed to be easier but I’m more used to sae myself. I guess the plus’s to everything going to metric is I can use one set of tools and cut what I bring in half. The axle is a 11.5 AAM. They are used on the gm trucks also.
Great video. Does each side take one seal and one bearing or two of each per side?
There is one hub seal, an inner and an outer bearing (they are different), and an axle flange seal per side so you will need two of everything to do the whole axle. The parts are also different for a dually or single wheel axle also.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic Awesome, I ordered the right stuff after going back to your video. Thanks for your help!
What was done to the frame? It looks brand new.
I have a few videos on the frame in the playlist. 03 Cummins 5.9 seized engine rebuild and frame and body swap
ruclips.net/p/PLRbLKd2i_Uy50fS6kTW0WsSFGpH3ADTuo I went to North Carolina and picked up a basically rust free frame. I then sand blasted it and painted it with southern polyurethanes epoxy primer. I swapped the cab with a Texas cab also.
What happened to this truck? Submerged?
Not that I’m aware of. I bought this truck with a seized engine and rebuilt it. While I was rebuilding it I started to notice some rust issues with the cab that I knew were going to get ugly so I decided to replace the whole cab. I’m not really sure how the water got in the axle but this was the most poorly maintained vehicle I’ve ever seen. Literally every part on this truck had evidence of someone working on it that just made it worse. I have a playlist on the process if your interested. 03 Cummins 5.9 seized engine rebuild and frame and body swap
ruclips.net/p/PLRbLKd2i_Uy50fS6kTW0WsSFGpH3ADTuo
do your airbag recall , i got a stop driving note on my door yesterday . it free at dodge dealer or they will come to your house and do it , 2003 models
Was it for the passenger side or drivers side? I had the passenger side done.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic drivers , you can google it
Thank you. I checked the vin on mopar last night and I didn’t have any open recalls. I’ll keep an eye out for one.