I forgo the G clamp and hand drill and just hold the board in palm of one hand and rotate the drill bit by fingers of the other hand. For deoxidation, an ink eraser followed by alcohol cleaning.
Something I've made a habit of: creating "breadboard enhancer" circuit boards - mount up to a dozen components onto some perfboard with header pins to plug into a breadboard. Especially for UI components like switches, they're much easier to operate soldered to a wider board than they are pushed into a breadboard, and I still have the breadboard's flexibility
The drill seems a bit unwieldy - I use a drill bit holder, which has a small chuck and fits into your hand: you don't need any substantial force to drill into those boards and you don't need to clamp it (you just hold it with left hand and turn the drill with your right hand, easy peasy :) Also, I used 2.4mm drill bit. The tracks are 2mm or so usually, so with a 2.4mm drill you don't have to worry about damaging the adjacent tracks. As to transfering the holes, I printed the circut board from the top, taped it on top of the board and used a needle to poke through the holes and mark them with a sharpie on the other side to drill out: this way it's pretty much impossible to make a mistake (and you can verify you marked it right by looking at the board with some light behind it: it will show the needle-punched places.)
Smashing comment, thank you. I suppose it's all about what one is used too. I've been using my method for about 55 years - I'm very articulate with my "grandpa" drill and gentle, I also wind coils with it too. For stability, I like clamping the board down - freeing up the other hand and preventing a slipped tool going into my hand. Furthermore, I also like a larger bit because it doesn't drill too deeply into the board - retaining its strength and I avoid damaging other tracks. By using DIYLC's excellent FREE software and their mirror facility, I have no trouble transferring the drill holes needed. It's surprising sometimes just how few drilled holes are actually needed. I appreciate you find your method the way you like it, all the best, Beamer.
Please be careful when using a breadboard. It will create frequencies that will enter your body and cause damage. Wrap either the breadboard or your body in tinfoil to block out the frequencies. You must be careful with frequencies.
I usually tin foil both the board and myself with an ultra-high frequency connection to a satellite dish, beamed to the Orion Nebula - I haven't had a reply yet, maybe one day? Perhaps you could try it as well, and we could then all beam together ;)
The point you raise is a very good one: My lungs were damaged at birth through the 1952 London Smog, and I wear a good quality mask always when cutting, sawing and soldering (smoking flux). Fume extraction is also a good idea. From the age of 6, having spent so much time at home, in hospital and convalescing, I developed a fascination with electronics that is still with me today.
I forgo the G clamp and hand drill and just hold the board in palm of one hand and rotate the drill bit by fingers of the other hand. For deoxidation, an ink eraser followed by alcohol cleaning.
It's great that people are coming forward and mentioning their way of doing this, thank you.
Something I've made a habit of: creating "breadboard enhancer" circuit boards - mount up to a dozen components onto some perfboard with header pins to plug into a breadboard. Especially for UI components like switches, they're much easier to operate soldered to a wider board than they are pushed into a breadboard, and I still have the breadboard's flexibility
Apologies for the reply delay - health issues. Useful information, thank you.
Excelent tutorial, thanks!!!
Thank you for your kind words.
Terimakasih I'm your fans from Indonesia🇮🇩 😇
Thank's for your support.
The drill seems a bit unwieldy - I use a drill bit holder, which has a small chuck and fits into your hand: you don't need any substantial force to drill into those boards and you don't need to clamp it (you just hold it with left hand and turn the drill with your right hand, easy peasy :) Also, I used 2.4mm drill bit. The tracks are 2mm or so usually, so with a 2.4mm drill you don't have to worry about damaging the adjacent tracks.
As to transfering the holes, I printed the circut board from the top, taped it on top of the board and used a needle to poke through the holes and mark them with a sharpie on the other side to drill out: this way it's pretty much impossible to make a mistake (and you can verify you marked it right by looking at the board with some light behind it: it will show the needle-punched places.)
Smashing comment, thank you. I suppose it's all about what one is used too. I've been using my method for about 55 years - I'm very articulate with my "grandpa" drill and gentle, I also wind coils with it too. For stability, I like clamping the board down - freeing up the other hand and preventing a slipped tool going into my hand. Furthermore, I also like a larger bit because it doesn't drill too deeply into the board - retaining its strength and I avoid damaging other tracks. By using DIYLC's excellent FREE software and their mirror facility, I have no trouble transferring the drill holes needed. It's surprising sometimes just how few drilled holes are actually needed. I appreciate you find your method the way you like it, all the best, Beamer.
Me i use wrapping to prototyping electronic board.
Stripboard is for wussies! Point-to-point perfboard is the real hero. Love, the US.
Please be careful when using a breadboard. It will create frequencies that will enter your body and cause damage.
Wrap either the breadboard or your body in tinfoil to block out the frequencies. You must be careful with frequencies.
I usually tin foil both the board and myself with an ultra-high frequency connection to a satellite dish, beamed to the Orion Nebula - I haven't had a reply yet, maybe one day? Perhaps you could try it as well, and we could then all beam together ;)
@@beamer.electronicslmao
Please be careful and wear breathing protection when cutting the board, the fibers are not good for your lungs.
The point you raise is a very good one: My lungs were damaged at birth through the 1952 London Smog, and I wear a good quality mask always when cutting, sawing and soldering (smoking flux). Fume extraction is also a good idea. From the age of 6, having spent so much time at home, in hospital and convalescing, I developed a fascination with electronics that is still with me today.
@@beamer.electronics Thank you for your response. Best wishes to you for good health and many successful projects!