This was the fix needed for my 2000 F250 7.3. It started intermittently throwing warm air from the AC. I performed the shim-ectomy as described in this video and cleaned up some crud under the clutch face, and AC works as good as new. Thank you for this video. Great camera work and to the point explanation of the procedure. Great job.
2003 F350 Crew Cab 6.8L 4x4 - 248,000 mi. A/C would work until I got out on the road and then it would go out. Removal of a single shim fixed this problem. The compressor is accessed underneath on the passenger side. Nothing needed to be removed to gain access to the clutch bolt. 8mm. 10 minute job. Thanks so much for the demo! Easy fix to a frustrating problem.
We did this repair and it fixed our intermittent AC problem. The AC would work fine when we were not towing. Once we hooked up our fifth wheel, especially if it was hot outside, the AC would cut out. Our AC system is original to our 2003 F350 with V10 engine. We had the clutch outer plate removed and one spacer was in place. We removed that one spacer and reinstalled the plate. That fixed our problem and the AC now works in hot or cold weather and whether towing or not.
Did the max A/C mod about a month and a half ago, and was having issues with my A/C only being cold on acceleration. Just finished up doing this, removed one shim and gapped it at .015 mm and it is night and day difference. This was by far the best video explaining how to do this and well as the fastest and easiest. Appreciate the video man! Definitely got a new subscriber.
MY MAN!!! I have owned this super duty for three years and cursed every summer since the ac never worked. Thanks to this video I am saving money on repairs and saving my sanity. Thank you!
Thanks!! Worked perfectly on my 2000 Ford F250. I noticed that the clutch was not opening & closing when I was turning the AC on & off. I only had 1 spacer inside and I removed it. Once I did that the clutch would engage and dis-engage just fine. I've got consistent AC now. I appreciate the clear instructions and well shot video.
Worked like a charm on my 2005 f150 - had over 0.35 gap, pulled the plate off and removed last shim, buttoned it up and now i've got ice cold A/C once again. Prior to this the A/C would only run for 10-15 minutes then we'd have hot air blowing through. Saved me close to 800 bucks thinking the compressor was shot!
This ALSO WORKS on most 2nd gen Dodge trucks and cars as well. I had to do this on my 2002 Grand Caravan years ago. What a lot of folks don't know is these same compressors are used by several car manufactures, Ford, Dodge, GM etc. I was actually looking for a clutch replacement video on the 2001 F350 7.3L, as I haven't done one on my truck. I'm doing my research on doing a series on diagnosing and repairing the AC system on the 7.3L F250-F350 series trucks. Mine when out so I thought it would be a good time to do one for my subscribers. Yeah I've been a subscriber of yours for awhile, love the truck vids bro. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
your a life saver man! this was exactly what was wrong with my truck, only took me about 10 minutes to fix thanks to your video. I had been dealing with shotty a/c for a few months, but now it works great!
Great video, i had intermittent ac, was usually good at start up but would disengage after driving. Gap was .055 got it down to the .02 and been good so far.
Seemed to work for me on my 2000 ranger. I also found a surplus of grease behind that ac clutch plate, which I removed much of it. I removed 1 washer spacer. Thanks. Edited. I drove 1 hour yesterday and AC worked perfectly. Thanks for the video. Took me 10 minutes & 8 Mm socket!
Super thankful for this video... I live in Victorville California which is basically the desert and the temperature can exceed 108° f.... You are a lifesaver, super easy to do as well!
@@TruckStuff1 shoot...I liked, subscribed and shared haha this thing is a miracle. Gonna clean my evaporator next and install the heater core line mod as well. Can't wait to see even more results
Thank You! This completly fixed my problem i was dying of heat all summer. Have a ford f350 7.3 liter only had one washer left took it out and boom cold air 4 eva! Thank you for this video!
Brah....Much Mahalos...you saved me around $200.00 just for a new A/C Compressor not including any other crap I may have needed to replace my 2002 F350 7.3 A/C Compressor. I actually only had one washer, but it was caked with crud too. I used braqke cleaner and removed the one washer, which totally closed the gap and it all works like a champ now. Took like you said, around ten minutes... Mahalo
Thanks great video! A mechanic in town wanted to charge me $190 to do this. He basically told me that the compressor air gap was off and needed adjusting. At least he was honest but $190 for that... what a rip off. Thanks again
Great video! Super helpful! Only one thing, I looked up this video because my AC clutch wasn’t engaging and part of the fix required the AC clutch to engage to remove that 8mm bolt. I had to get creative but figured it out and followed the rest of your instructions 🤘🏽. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. My 7.3 was only working intermittently. I had read about this solution, but the video really helped. I only had one spacer but with it removed I now have constant cold AC.
Thanks its fixed ! 2001 7.3 PSD compressor would sometimes not engage unless tapped by a wrench....I followed this procedure plus used some engine degreaser to clean the clutch and now its working great.
When refrigerant is low or over charged it makes the clutch kick on and off more frequently, thus causing clutch plate to wear out faster. After adjusting the clutch get your system serviced.
Great video. It literally took me less than 5 minutes. My 2002 F350 7.3 cycles on and off when the temperature gets above 80 degrees. I could see there was a very large gap so i took out one washer. Gonna take it for a test ride soon to make sure its working good. Thanks again
Cycling on and off means it’s working and is either low on freon, too cool outside to be loaded up or if you gave rear ac, that is not on, allowing freon to stack up in the line to the rear evaporator. Your clutch is probably fine as long as it gaps in the range this guy says. Mine is barely out of .020 to .030 I think so I’m not sure if there is any slip, I think no, mine just doesn’t cool like it used to at idle and hot outside, 85 or higher, aggh.
Just did this today and worked exactly as intended. Had one shim left. Removed it and the air now stays ice cold as it should. No more revving up to get the compressor to engage.
2014 Ford Fusion. A/C stopped working. Checked the compressor, had 1/4" air gap. The bolt had come out and lost. Installed new M6 metric bolt (about 3/4" long) with loc-tite. On the road again. $.53, with washer.
If you don’t have feeler gauges you can use a spark gap coin. Or what I did was use my caliper to measure different things around my house until I found a card stock that was about 0.025” thick
Awesome video!! Just made this adjustment to my 2000 Ranger 3.0 with 170,000 miles and all the original A/C gear intact. Mine had the issue where the compressor would cycle off normally and not cycle back on every now and then. The cure was shutting it off for a while and then turning it back on while driving. I put gauges on it. Everything was normal and the compressor cycle switch was doing is job, so it wasn't freon related. I checked mine after seeing your video and it had about .050-.060" gap in it. I am thinking that this big of a gap was letting the clutch not pull in evenly and bind up every now and then. Also, it just recently started to occasionally make noise like it was slipping. Pulled a shim out and now I have 0.025" as a snug fit on the feeler gauge and it seems to be running and cycling great now. The only issue I ran into is my compressor won't pull in with the engine off, but I have a huge set of channel locks and was able to grab that front ring that the springs rivet to in order to get the bolt loose. The bolt came out easily and seemed like it had a grease on it from the factory, so I left it that way when reinstalling. Mine was also just starting to eat into the rivets like the one you show, so I know a clutch replace/rebuild will be in order after this summer.
What’s your PayPal? You are a life saver!!!! I’ve been dealing with this issue for the last two years. You just save me $1,200.00 and replacement parts, recharge, and labor costs. May God bless you.
What would cause the clutch to just let go after driving for say 15 mins. And the hotter the day The shorter The time it stays on . The charge is good . But You let it stay off for a 10min. And it will start on its own. Any ideas?
Thanks for the video I have a 2002 F250 7.3 with 300,000 miles on it and for the last couple of months I have had to get out open the hood and tap the the front of the compressor to get the clutch to come on! I was gonna spend 100 bucks and buy a new clutch but I tried this and sure as shit pops on immediately now!
I just installed a new clutch assembly. Im turning on the key and the ac to test the clutch and the clutch isnt engaging. What may have happened? The ac was cooling fine before the repair, but the bearing in the pulley was bad.
***** hey man just a quick question i have a 2000 f250 5.4 and i believe my clutch plate is on the bottom of the pulley system towards the bottom of my engine. and today i hit it with a screw driver like you said in your posts and it works again. i am just double checking if you think that one is the ac compressor unit. thanks though,
Hey, i just picked up a 2000 F-150 XLT 5.4. My AC isnt working, just blows warm air. 2 things... First, i can not find the low pressure port for the life of me.. i thought i may have found it on the canister.. but the fitting is wrong.. and second, my clutch does not engage, should i try and use this method which others seem to be thrilled by since its worked, or just go new?
Working!! Thanks a bundle! I must have flipped mine on and off 100 time through Arizona last summer and every 20x it would flip on but any bump in the road and it would turn off again and I would sweat and cry. 110 that day. Stoked to un-fog my windows fast again.
Man, I can sympathize with your situation. I've had the same problem with 99 Mazda B2500 for years!! In hot Texas!! I have received varying expensive repair diagnosis, involving several hundred dollars. I can't wait to try this simple fix. Hope it works for me!
You forgot to tighten the bolt. That clutch will come flying out of there right through the radiator if you don't tighten to spec with Locktight. Guess how I know that.
I need the instructions on 2004 Ford F-150 Tritan super crew cab on removing spacers from air conditioning clutch please. You did great job on the video I saw but I think it was not the same truck I have. Thanks if you can help me out.
can the pulleys lock up on the ac clutch and not allow the belt to turn and prevent the truck from starting if so can you remove the belt and put a shorter belt to siill allow the other pulleys to turn and not use the ac anymore ?
I have a 99 Ford Explorer. The clutch engages once when turning the car on. Then nothing. Checked the pressure switch, fuses, relay and wiring. Do you think this would work for me?
You're so lucky with the position of the compressor. At my Volvo V70 it's somewhere down, only reachable by dismantle it. And needs to pulled of with a tool.
If his tip to turn key to accessories position doesn't engage AC clutch, you will need to use channel locks to grab ahold of ac clutch while attempting to loosen center bolt. It's a pain but it can be done. Another suggestion is to jam one or two screwdrivers into the air gap space to prevent the ac clutch from spinning while you unscrew center bolt. Good luck!
@@TruckStuff1 I am breaking out my feeler gauges this afternoon. A friend of mine told me about this years ago but I never really understood him. You made is crystal clear.
My luck. The current gap is .030. I can push a .033 feeler in on one side so I’m thinking it’s Ok gap wise bummer. Thought this would be why the AC doesn’t want to cool very well at idle. Been this way for years. Freon charge OK.
I have a Ford Focus 2010, my frion is full, had it checked w a machine, high is to high, and clutch won't come on. Fuses and relays are good to.. I don't know what to check next.
Hey Trey, what if your turn on your a/c on and it doesn't lock up to undo the bolt to get the clutch to come off. What does that mean?? Is my clutch bad?? Any ideas? Thanks
My clutch plate won't engage when the truck is off, but will when it's running. I can't get it to cycle when it's not running like in your video? Any ideas? All fuses seem to be ok as well.
I had my 03 6.0 dually having same issues mthe gap was way over I took the 8m bolt off and behind my clutch was only one shim took it out and put it back took. me about 5 min and now the clutch is working well no more having to tap in it to engage it
Um I'm wondering why my a/c clutch doesn't lock after I'd turned the key to on position( not starting the car) and hit A/C switch on? Clutch still pulls freely? Any help please?
brianjirish I know it's been a year. I had the same problem. But I just hold the clutch by hand and loosen the bolt. My thought was damn now I have to work harder. But it was very simple.
While the ac is on and running that clucth have to remain locked , cause I have an issue my truck ac is blowing hot air , and I hear the clip I guess is when engage but right after disangage so I dont know is this a problem,
I have a 1989 Lincoln Town Car that has been a nightmare on A/C issues. My A/C shuts off on the highway, my fan shuts off when I select floor, & nothing comes out my defrost vent when I select defrost. Could my low pressure switch be failing? I just changed my check valve & Automatic Temperature Control Switch Servo. There was no change. Changed my blower motor resistor a couple years ago, so it's not that. I'm out of options. Do u have any idea what the problem may be? Thanks in advance.
What if the gap is too big without shims? A days ago the clutch disk flew off driving down the interstate, bought a replacement but the gap is too big without any shims. Suggestions?
Sounds like you got the wrong part. But if the clutch came off just by driving, I'd suspect some other problem. If you want to play, just grind the hub down 'til you get the gap you like, but do that at your own risk.
This was the fix needed for my 2000 F250 7.3. It started intermittently throwing warm air from the AC. I performed the shim-ectomy as described in this video and cleaned up some crud under the clutch face, and AC works as good as new. Thank you for this video. Great camera work and to the point explanation of the procedure. Great job.
Glad it took care of you!
2003 F350 Crew Cab 6.8L 4x4 - 248,000 mi. A/C would work until I got out on the road and then it would go out. Removal of a single shim fixed this problem. The compressor is accessed underneath on the passenger side. Nothing needed to be removed to gain access to the clutch bolt. 8mm. 10 minute job. Thanks so much for the demo! Easy fix to a frustrating problem.
We did this repair and it fixed our intermittent AC problem. The AC would work fine when we were not towing. Once we hooked up our fifth wheel, especially if it was hot outside, the AC would cut out. Our AC system is original to our 2003 F350 with V10 engine. We had the clutch outer plate removed and one spacer was in place. We removed that one spacer and reinstalled the plate. That fixed our problem and the AC now works in hot or cold weather and whether towing or not.
Did the max A/C mod about a month and a half ago, and was having issues with my A/C only being cold on acceleration. Just finished up doing this, removed one shim and gapped it at .015 mm and it is night and day difference.
This was by far the best video explaining how to do this and well as the fastest and easiest.
Appreciate the video man! Definitely got a new subscriber.
Glad it helped!
Thank you. This fixed my A/C problem. It was coming on for a few minuets then going off. It just had too much of a gap. Saved me around 200.00!
MY MAN!!! I have owned this super duty for three years and cursed every summer since the ac never worked. Thanks to this video I am saving money on repairs and saving my sanity. Thank you!
So glad you were able to get it fixed! Leave a like on the video!
Thanks!! Worked perfectly on my 2000 Ford F250. I noticed that the clutch was not opening & closing when I was turning the AC on & off. I only had 1 spacer inside and I removed it. Once I did that the clutch would engage and dis-engage just fine. I've got consistent AC now. I appreciate the clear instructions and well shot video.
Worked like a charm on my 2005 f150 - had over 0.35 gap, pulled the plate off and removed last shim, buttoned it up and now i've got ice cold A/C once again.
Prior to this the A/C would only run for 10-15 minutes then we'd have hot air blowing through. Saved me close to 800 bucks thinking the compressor was shot!
Awesome!
Were you getting AC before this and what was the final gap after reassembly thanks.
This ALSO WORKS on most 2nd gen Dodge trucks and cars as well. I had to do this on my 2002 Grand Caravan years ago. What a lot of folks don't know is these same compressors are used by several car manufactures, Ford, Dodge, GM etc. I was actually looking for a clutch replacement video on the 2001 F350 7.3L, as I haven't done one on my truck. I'm doing my research on doing a series on diagnosing and repairing the AC system on the 7.3L F250-F350 series trucks. Mine when out so I thought it would be a good time to do one for my subscribers. Yeah I've been a subscriber of yours for awhile, love the truck vids bro. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
your a life saver man! this was exactly what was wrong with my truck, only took me about 10 minutes to fix thanks to your video. I had been dealing with shotty a/c for a few months, but now it works great!
What was the gap before removing the shim(s)? Thanks
.015mm is .0006 tenths of an inch, pretty sure you meant .015 in inches
Great video, i had intermittent ac, was usually good at start up but would disengage after driving. Gap was .055 got it down to the .02 and been good so far.
Seemed to work for me on my 2000 ranger. I also found a surplus of grease behind that ac clutch plate, which I removed much of it. I removed 1 washer spacer. Thanks. Edited. I drove 1 hour yesterday and AC worked perfectly. Thanks for the video. Took me 10 minutes & 8 Mm socket!
Super thankful for this video... I live in Victorville California which is basically the desert and the temperature can exceed 108° f.... You are a lifesaver, super easy to do as well!
I used to live in Bakersfield so I feel your pain! Glad this video helped you out. If you leave a like it helps me a lot!
@@TruckStuff1 shoot...I liked, subscribed and shared haha this thing is a miracle. Gonna clean my evaporator next and install the heater core line mod as well. Can't wait to see even more results
Thank you! Every bit of support helps
This fixed mine. I live in HOUSTON-BY-GOD-TEXAS......this was much appreciated. I owe you a beer as summer is creeping in here.
Glad it worked! Instead of a beer, leave me a like on the video, it helps me out a lot. 🍻
Gap before and after was?
Thank You! This completly fixed my problem i was dying of heat all summer. Have a ford f350 7.3 liter only had one washer left took it out and boom cold air 4 eva! Thank you for this video!
Man I can’t wait to try this I’ve been dying in my 01 f350 7.3
Fastest and easiest repair I've ever done on any vehicle. Great video!
Just fixed my ac this morning with this info. Took 5 mins, thanks a million
Glad it helped
Great video! Clear instructions, concise, clean editing. Good job!
Trey, I used this video when I first bought my truck in ‘14 and just had to use it again. Thanks bruh very helpful
Glad it could be helpful! It's an older video and I'm glad it's still proving useful
Brah....Much Mahalos...you saved me around $200.00 just for a new A/C Compressor not including any other crap I may have needed to replace my 2002 F350 7.3 A/C Compressor. I actually only had one washer, but it was caked with crud too. I used braqke cleaner and removed the one washer, which totally closed the gap and it all works like a champ now. Took like you said, around ten minutes...
Mahalo
Me save 400 thanks
Thanks great video! A mechanic in town wanted to charge me $190 to do this. He basically told me that the compressor air gap was off and needed adjusting. At least he was honest but $190 for that... what a rip off. Thanks again
He must not know the move the expansion tank outta the way trick
Thanks for the help...worked great...been fighting the heat for a year.
Great video! Super helpful! Only one thing, I looked up this video because my AC clutch wasn’t engaging and part of the fix required the AC clutch to engage to remove that 8mm bolt. I had to get creative but figured it out and followed the rest of your instructions 🤘🏽. Thank you!
So how did you do it
Thanks for the video. My 7.3 was only working intermittently. I had read about this solution, but the video really helped. I only had one spacer but with it removed I now have constant cold AC.
Awesome! Glad it helped you! Don't forget to like the video, it really helpa out my channel
What was the “before” gap? Thanks
Lifesaver bro, I had no clue what the issue was and this fixed it
Thanks man. I want to echo what others have said, good job on the camera work and concise presentation.
You Sir, are the man of the hour at my house right now. The 99 F-350 is now blowing snowballs. Many thanks!
Still working?
Snowballs. Love it. What was the before and after clutch gap thanks.
Thank you for the concise video. Excellent tutorial. So many are full of nonsense and never get to the point.
You're welcome
Thanks its fixed ! 2001 7.3 PSD compressor would sometimes not engage unless tapped by a wrench....I followed this procedure plus used some engine degreaser to clean the clutch and now its working great.
Awesome video! Tried this yesterday on my 2006 F150 and so far, so good! I really appreciate you sharing this.
Glad to have helped!!
Excellent how to video! Well done. Great job teaching the process step by step. Concise step by step directions. Perfect!
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful!
When refrigerant is low or over charged it makes the clutch kick on and off more frequently, thus causing clutch plate to wear out faster. After adjusting the clutch get your system serviced.
Great video. It literally took me less than 5 minutes. My 2002 F350 7.3 cycles on and off when the temperature gets above 80 degrees. I could see there was a very large gap so i took out one washer. Gonna take it for a test ride soon to make sure its working good. Thanks again
How was the test drive?
Cycling on and off means it’s working and is either low on freon, too cool outside to be loaded up or if you gave rear ac, that is not on, allowing freon to stack up in the line to the rear evaporator. Your clutch is probably fine as long as it gaps in the range this guy says. Mine is barely out of .020 to .030 I think so I’m not sure if there is any slip, I think no, mine just doesn’t cool like it used to at idle and hot outside, 85 or higher, aggh.
@@johnbecnel693 Did you ever figure out what was wrong with your AC?
Just did this today and worked exactly as intended. Had one shim left. Removed it and the air now stays ice cold as it should. No more revving up to get the compressor to engage.
Thank you! This fixed my ‘02 mustang. Just took 1 shim out and it worked.
Beautiful!!
Could not believe that’s all my problem was. Thank you for saving me so much money!
So happy to have helped!
2014 Ford Fusion. A/C stopped working. Checked the compressor, had 1/4" air gap. The bolt had come out and lost. Installed new M6 metric bolt (about 3/4" long) with loc-tite. On the road again. $.53, with washer.
If you don’t have feeler gauges you can use a spark gap coin. Or what I did was use my caliper to measure different things around my house until I found a card stock that was about 0.025” thick
Awesome video!!
Just made this adjustment to my 2000 Ranger 3.0 with 170,000 miles and all the original A/C gear intact.
Mine had the issue where the compressor would cycle off normally and not cycle back on every now and then. The cure was shutting it off for a while and then turning it back on while driving. I put gauges on it. Everything was normal and the compressor cycle switch was doing is job, so it wasn't freon related.
I checked mine after seeing your video and it had about .050-.060" gap in it. I am thinking that this big of a gap was letting the clutch not pull in evenly and bind up every now and then. Also, it just recently started to occasionally make noise like it was slipping.
Pulled a shim out and now I have 0.025" as a snug fit on the feeler gauge and it seems to be running and cycling great now.
The only issue I ran into is my compressor won't pull in with the engine off, but I have a huge set of channel locks and was able to grab that front ring that the springs rivet to in order to get the bolt loose. The bolt came out easily and seemed like it had a grease on it from the factory, so I left it that way when reinstalling.
Mine was also just starting to eat into the rivets like the one you show, so I know a clutch replace/rebuild will be in order after this summer.
Thanks a ton!!! took me ten minutes on my 2000 F150 2WD and it is blowing colder than cold!!!!!!!!!!
What’s your PayPal? You are a life saver!!!! I’ve been dealing with this issue for the last two years. You just save me $1,200.00 and replacement parts, recharge, and labor costs. May God bless you.
That's fantastic I'm so glad to hear it! I don't normally take tips 😂
Thanks for the video,
Is this measurement also the same with for Taurus?
so many mechanics just replace the entire compressor. They need to be honest with the customer and do the 100 dollar clutch fix
Took one washer out and the air gap is .010 now and A/C works great
Great! Make sure to leave a like on the video 👍
@@TruckStuff1 I did and Subscribed Thank you
Awesome!!
Just fixed my issue as well. Easiest fix ever
Appreciated
Good!
@@TruckStuff1does this work on 90's F150's and Broncos?
what kind of gauges are those? I can't hear that well. are those the same you use for spark plugs? thanks.
Feeler gauges, yeah they all work the same
What would cause the clutch to just let go after driving for say 15 mins. And the hotter the day The shorter The time it stays on . The charge is good . But You let it stay off for a 10min. And it will start on its own. Any ideas?
THANK YOU SO MUCH!! This worked for me. 15 min job! We’re so used to the heat I hope we’ll be okay being cold now!! Haha
Still working?
Thanks for the video I have a 2002 F250 7.3 with 300,000 miles on it and for the last couple of months I have had to get out open the hood and tap the the front of the compressor to get the clutch to come on! I was gonna spend 100 bucks and buy a new clutch but I tried this and sure as shit pops on immediately now!
$100 saved!
WoW!! Awesome video. You explained my problem perfectly and showed me the way to fix it. This is something I think I can do!! Thank you very much!!
You're welcome!
You are literally my current hero
Love to hear it!
hey guys thanks for sharing your knowledge on this site it help a lots to all car owner who encountered same problem we really appreciate
I just installed a new clutch assembly. Im turning on the key and the ac to test the clutch and the clutch isnt engaging. What may have happened? The ac was cooling fine before the repair, but the bearing in the pulley was bad.
Absolute best video out there for my Ac problem thank you so much 💯💯💯 to the point no BS. 👍🏼👊🏼
Glad it helped
Do you take one spacer or put it back all?
***** hey man just a quick question i have a 2000 f250 5.4 and i believe my clutch plate is on the bottom of the pulley system towards the bottom of my engine. and today i hit it with a screw driver like you said in your posts and it works again. i am just double checking if you think that one is the ac compressor unit. thanks though,
How about if the clutch is not engaging at all? Could this be the problem if fuses and relays are good?
Hey, i just picked up a 2000 F-150 XLT 5.4. My AC isnt working, just blows warm air. 2 things... First, i can not find the low pressure port for the life of me.. i thought i may have found it on the canister.. but the fitting is wrong.. and second, my clutch does not engage, should i try and use this method which others seem to be thrilled by since its worked, or just go new?
Will the air gap cause short cycling of the compressor?
Know if there is a torque spec for that 8mm bolt?
I changed my compressor still don’t work on my 2000 ford ranger should I try this so the ac could work
Dude, super helpful, and quality video.Thanks
Glad I could help!
Working!! Thanks a bundle! I must have flipped mine on and off 100 time through Arizona last summer and every 20x it would flip on but any bump in the road and it would turn off again and I would sweat and cry. 110 that day. Stoked to un-fog my windows fast again.
Man, I can sympathize with your situation. I've had the same problem with 99 Mazda B2500 for years!! In hot Texas!! I have received varying expensive repair diagnosis, involving several hundred dollars. I can't wait to try this simple fix. Hope it works for me!
Thank you! Getting ready to address my non-working a/c system. Thanks
Hope this helps! Leave a like on the video if it was helpful
You forgot to tighten the bolt. That clutch will come flying out of there right through the radiator if you don't tighten to spec with Locktight. Guess how I know that.
Cuz ur a professor
Wow!!!! . This is why I read all the comments before I run out like a kid at CHUCKY CHEESE and start tearing into my truck!!! THANKS.
I need the instructions on 2004 Ford F-150 Tritan super crew cab on removing spacers from air conditioning clutch please. You did great job on the video I saw but I think it was not the same truck I have. Thanks if you can help me out.
Does the key stay on the “on” position all the time ?
This is what I needed to see! Thanks for this post, it's extremely helpful
Thanks, this helped me fix mine, I forgot to put the washer and if the washer is not there you will basically have the clutch locked.
can the pulleys lock up on the ac clutch and not allow the belt to turn and prevent the truck from starting if so can you remove the belt and put a shorter belt to siill allow the other pulleys to turn and not use the ac anymore ?
Thanks for the video. Do you have to have a spacer? I only have 1 in there now and need to close the gap.
Thanks buddy. This worked great I really appreciate the help.
Worked like a charm!
Always does!
Will this work on my 95 obs 7.3
You can use a business card to measure gap.
Marvin
Simple, straight forward no bullshit. This is what I needed, thanks bro, wish my 95 had double din, I like the way that double looks in your truck..
Did it work on your 95?
I have a 99 Ford Explorer. The clutch engages once when turning the car on. Then nothing. Checked the pressure switch, fuses, relay and wiring. Do you think this would work for me?
You're so lucky with the position of the compressor. At my Volvo V70 it's somewhere down, only reachable by dismantle it. And needs to pulled of with a tool.
That's a very neat trick you used to remove the center bolt. Thanks mate.
@C K I can't get the plate to lock either so I can't loosen the bolt with a socket. I'm going to have to try an impact wrench to get it off.
If his tip to turn key to accessories position doesn't engage AC clutch, you will need to use channel locks to grab ahold of ac clutch while attempting to loosen center bolt. It's a pain but it can be done. Another suggestion is to jam one or two screwdrivers into the air gap space to prevent the ac clutch from spinning while you unscrew center bolt. Good luck!
My 2000 f350 7.3 has 1 spacer. Is that normal?
Cool! And thank you so much for how to get the expansion bottle out of the way without having to drain it!
Glad I could help!
@@TruckStuff1 I am breaking out my feeler gauges this afternoon. A friend of mine told me about this years ago but I never really understood him. You made is crystal clear.
I love getting that feedback! Leave a like on the video, it really helps me out
My luck. The current gap is .030. I can push a .033 feeler in on one side so I’m thinking it’s Ok gap wise bummer. Thought this would be why the AC doesn’t want to cool very well at idle. Been this way for years. Freon charge OK.
Super helpful buddy thanks!
Glad it helped!
I have a Ford Focus 2010, my frion is full, had it checked w a machine, high is to high, and clutch won't come on. Fuses and relays are good to.. I don't know what to check next.
Check if it has the right amount of refrigerant
@@erictech201 jump the low pressure switch with a paper clip and see if it comes on
Great video, well done. Appreciate it!
Glad it helped! Don't forget to leave a like! Thank you!
Hey Trey, what if your turn on your a/c on and it doesn't lock up to undo the bolt to get the clutch to come off. What does that mean?? Is my clutch bad?? Any ideas?
Thanks
Tap it with a rubber malet and see if the clutch engages. If the gap is too far, the electromagnet may not have enough pull to attract the clutch.
So does the bolt keep spinning if you don’t turn the ac on? When the ac is turned on you said it locks in place to get the bolt out
When I shut my truck off it pops back out
My clutch plate won't engage when the truck is off, but will when it's running. I can't get it to cycle when it's not running like in your video? Any ideas? All fuses seem to be ok as well.
If the clutch isn't engaging then the compressor isn't getting a signal to engage. Could be a high pressure switch or low freon.
Thanks for sharing. Just followed your video and worked like a charm.
Awesome! Glad to hear it!
I had my 03 6.0 dually having same issues mthe gap was way over I took the 8m bolt off and behind my clutch was only one shim took it out and put it back took. me about 5 min and now the clutch is working well no more having to tap in it to engage it
Thanks for the video helped a lot
Um I'm wondering why my a/c clutch doesn't lock after I'd turned the key to on position( not starting the car) and hit A/C switch on? Clutch still pulls freely? Any help please?
brianjirish I know it's been a year. I had the same problem. But I just hold the clutch by hand and loosen the bolt. My thought was damn now I have to work harder. But it was very simple.
You turned the key on but don't start it, to lock the clutch correct ?
While the ac is on and running that clucth have to remain locked , cause I have an issue my truck ac is blowing hot air , and I hear the clip I guess is when engage but right after disangage so I dont know is this a problem,
hi i have a ford focus 1,8 when put ac on ,clutch engages for about 5 secs then stops and repeats this , any ideas as what problem is ?
I have a 1989 Lincoln Town Car that has been a nightmare on A/C issues.
My A/C shuts off on the highway, my fan shuts off when I select floor, & nothing comes out my defrost vent when I select defrost.
Could my low pressure switch be failing?
I just changed my check valve & Automatic Temperature Control Switch Servo.
There was no change.
Changed my blower motor resistor a couple years ago, so it's not that.
I'm out of options.
Do u have any idea what the problem may be?
Thanks in advance.
Check the vacuum going to the blend door.
@@TruckStuff1 Thanks
Is that the big door on the passenger''s side?
Awesome, just fixed my truck, thought I was going to have to buy one , thanks
You’re a lifesaver! Thank you so much for this info! Worked great 😊
So glad to have helped!
What if the gap is too big without shims? A days ago the clutch disk flew off driving down the interstate, bought a replacement but the gap is too big without any shims. Suggestions?
Sounds like you got the wrong part. But if the clutch came off just by driving, I'd suspect some other problem. If you want to play, just grind the hub down 'til you get the gap you like, but do that at your own risk.
How do you know what the manufacturer spec is for the air gap?