Tailstock Die Holder for Hex Dies using Vevor Mini Lathe Jacobs chuck mount - Beginners Tool Project
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- Tailstock Die Holder for Hex Dies for use in a Jacobs chuck using Vevor Mini Lathe - Beginners Tool Project
Making things better than they were one project at a time.
Work using my Vevor Mini Lathe MX 400. Amateur video work and amateur hobby machinist. Learning and turning
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Deez, very well organized and executed. You clearly explained the vision, the steps, the challenges, and the outcome. This is what makes content producers "sticky". Well done, my friend. Looking forward to more.
Thanks. This feedback really means a lot. I am really trying to focus on content that is more watchable and improve each week.
Hi Deez, I'm also new to this, in fact my first project will be making this Die holder. I wasn't sure how I was going to make a Die holder for my Hex Dies, so thanks for this video, I will use it as a guide in making mine.
Glad you found the video. This was a fun project, In the end I decided to go with a straight shank to mount using my Jacobs Chuck. I have other plans to make one using an MT2 arbor with a threaded end. You might consider that if you want to change up my design.
Rather than turning a straight shank for the chuck turn it into a taper for the tail stock. Just dial indicate the taper on your drill chuck to set the angle.
I want to try this someday. Turning an intended taper. Using a dial indicator should get me the MT2 I need. New project idea. Thanks.
Hi Deez,
You will often have to mark a piece of stock in order to drill a series of equidistant holes around the diameter
There is a quick and cheap way to do this for 3 holes, 4,6 ,8 or whatever number you require.
All you need is a card or plastic degree disk , around 8 inch dia.
This is mounted on to a nylon shaft which is inserted into the spindle of your lathe on its exit at the far left..(you may need to remove the panel that covers your drive gears.) and you also need some sort of pointer which can be fixed to any convenient screw or bolt.
In use , first make sure your machine is turned off , mount your degree disk and set it to zero degrees against your pointer.
Next use some engineering blue or sharpie on your work piece .Fit a sharp knife tool in the tool holder . Measure how deep you want your marks to be ,eg., 80mm. then touch your tool against the workpiece and then turn the chuck ..This puts a mark around the diameter (80mm) , next , turn the chuck until the degree disk reads zero and then using the knife tool turn the saddle handwheel to scribe a line horizontally ,, next turn you chuck until the degree disk reads 120 degrees and scribe a second line , next turn the chuck until the degree disk reads 240 degrees and again scribe a line
Now you have a line at 80mm depth that has been bisected at 3 equal points.
You can then easily centre punch and drill or whatever.
Obviously you can use a similar technique to mark any series of equidistant points on your workpiece.
What a great solution and overview of how this would work. I like this idea. I’ll be in the lookout for a degree disk now. Nice one my friend. Thanks for sharing this.
No probs.
You can use a motorcycle timing disk, (degree disk) , which you can obtain for a couple of dollars from most outlets that sell parts for vintage or classic bikes.
You can also drill holes in the work piece in situ. Simply make a drilled brass or bronze block to fit in your tool holder .
You fit a Small chuck to a steel bar that slides in the hole youve drilled in the brass block in your tool holder.
Once you set your chuck via your degree disk then just use a small battery drill to power your chuck mounted in the tool holder.
In this way you can drill a series of holes around your work piece with some accuracy.
If you are interested I can provide photos of these little mods and gadgets.
Cheers.
Should have read, 'Fit a Small drill chuck to the bar that slides in the hole in the brass block that is fixed in the tool holder'
Cheers.
Thanks for sharing your thought processes as you go!
I appreciate it. Trying to be less wordy and getting more straight to the point. I’ll continue to improve over time. Thanks for watching and the feedback.
Irwin is ok they do have great customer service and if any of your dies are defective they will replace them. Just need to share pics of the defective dies and the part number from the kit.
The set screws to hold the hex can be at 200thou back from the front, they grab anywhere, but the diverts on the round dies are different. The set screw must contact the back slope of the divert, so that the die gets pushed deeper and flush to the back face, so its square. Itll work much better if there flush as deep in the bore as possible. Camera is looking good, some more close ups of the cuts is always welcome. Stoked on the birds singing in the background. Mate, 15 subs to go👌 Your just hitting you stride, channels looking great👍👌🇦🇺
Thanks. I didn’t realize that about the grooves on the round dies. I learn something with every video I post. Thanks. Since I switched cameras it’s more difficult to get closer shots but I’ll keep this in mind as I work on projects. Some things are definitely worth a close up shot. Thanks
That’s what you needed a long time ago! Good job!
I’ve needed one for 3-years and still haven’t made one perhaps it’s time for me to get started with making a tailstock die holder. All of my dies are hex and I have three different sizes. I do have the mill so I have a bit of an advantage.
I'd consider making internal sleeves or bushing adapters to fill inthe slack for the smaller dies and make a single holder or if you have the stock making 3 wouldn't be too difficult either. a Modificaiton I may make someday is to thread the mounting shank end and get an MT2 shank with a threaded end to adapt mine to mount directly into the tailstock vs using a jacobs chuck. Good luck, I know this is a great project you can knock out easily.
Nice job by the way. You put an idea to work for you. the only thing I might suggest is to take a small cut to remove the remaining mill scale left on the stock and use something to protect your new tool from rust. I have luck with Brownells Oxpho - Blue. Basically, liquid gun bluing. Plus, the benefit of making it look good if you like that look. Keep having fun!!!!!!
Thanks. I ended up hot bluing it and it has done a great job of keeping the rust off. Used this tool several times already. Thanks
it still will be off a tinge. you definitely need three grub screws to get it perfectly centered with material
This is worth pointing out. It is not 100% centered without having all 3 set screws, however I'm not sure even with all 3 I'd be able to achieve absolute precision with it. Definitely worth pointing out if precision and I mean 100% precision is what your after but for most use cases this works well. Thanks for the feedback and watching.
@@deezworkshop you know what your doing better than most? replying to everyone’s comments. i feel we are always learning whether you just opened your lathe for first time or seasoned vet
I appreciate that. I love this community and love being part of it. I am glad for everyones input and comments positive and productive. This is a learning channel and it is my hopes that everyone watching, reading, commenting and being part of our awesome community can learn and have fun with all of us. Totally agree we all cna continue to learn no matter how experienced. This is such a great hobby. Cheers.
Deez, well done but still not getting order of operations, you should have turned the shaft first then flipped it around for concentrically, you could have measured the depth of your drill chuck for shaft length, its alright to mark drill bit for depth like you did for boring bar, now if you want a reel challenge you could turn a sleeve with a 1/16” wall thickness (1” id x 1.125" od) to take up difference between dies sizes
Order of ops is still a work in progress for me. I think this is one of the most important skills to learn and master in metal turning and milling operations. Someone else mentioned the sleeve to make as an adapter for my round dies. I’ll be giving that a shot in a future video for sure. And hey if it doesn’t work out I’ll make a new one for those dies.
Hey DEEZ, new Sub here. Color me silly but, no eye Pro and "flip flops" ! in a metal shop...really askin for it just my opinion bud
I agree, not being judgmental, I did the same thing and my doc had to remove a sliver of metal from my foot.
You are both right. I haven’t been good about shoes for sure. I need to be better about this. I am asking for trouble. No need to invite it right? Thanks for the comments and thanks for subscribing. It’s is really appreciated.
@@deezworkshop Gotta keep all them toes and eye's not to mention fingers. Keep up the good work!
Absolutely. Something I will never dispute. Safety. I will make it a point to pay more attention to this. I’ve been doing this for a year now. No more excuses.
@@deezworkshop Don't forget to remove your ring as well...