Commercial Trane RTU Leak Repair

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  • Опубликовано: 28 ноя 2024

Комментарии • 74

  • @huntgibson3716
    @huntgibson3716 Год назад +12

    Awesome repairman skills Dave. It’s sad that the “professionals” don’t bother to diagnose and offer to repair, it’s all about that sell.
    Us multi family techs are the problem solvers. You’d definitely an asset. Keep up the great work and I’m loving the direction of the channel.

  • @joshuaricks7730
    @joshuaricks7730 Год назад +4

    Great job brother. Yes I would agree with the fact of you having moisture in the system. Hook up nitrogen and purge the lines slightly, flowing a small amount through. You do not need to pressurize the system while doing this. At the most like 5 psi while flowing. Do that for about 5 minutes and then pull vacuum again. Make sure to purge your hoses prior to adding the nitrogen as if it were refrigerant. 🤙🤙

  • @Freeagent-z7l
    @Freeagent-z7l Год назад +2

    I enjoyed working on those Trane equipment, did it for 24yrs in Trinidad and Tobago

    • @henryching3960
      @henryching3960 6 месяцев назад

      Hey man, great to see a fellow Trinidadian, am also a service guy also been in the business for 40 years.
      I love watching the AC repair videos, brings back a lot of memories. Be well brother.

  • @ΒασίληςΜπάκας-χ4χ
    @ΒασίληςΜπάκας-χ4χ Год назад +10

    Seems like moisture in system, I’d try triple evacuation. Add nitrogen do vacuum and keep doing the same to break the moisture or oil droplet. Also I also flush lines with nitro before vacuum . Good job man!

  • @Raysmaintenance
    @Raysmaintenance Год назад +4

    Replace parts--- you got this, and you're doing it correctly --- I just re installed an old 22 unit and it works great.

  • @ThermalSolutionsHVACR
    @ThermalSolutionsHVACR Год назад +4

    Good video, and GREAT FIND!! And from experience, many owners, they just want you to get that thing going and blowing cold. Without spending a fortune. That's probably a good stopping point. And if the owner wants a new compressor, well, go all in then. I would also look for a rubber or plastic grommet that can be inserted where the leak was. The leak occured because the refrigerant line keep shaking and rubbing up against the metal. Those Trane units have a problem with shaking causing leaks

  • @tonyretana47
    @tonyretana47 Год назад +3

    Way to take care charge bro! Love the initiative you took on this issue!

  • @tomhaeussler6553
    @tomhaeussler6553 Год назад

    Good job on that repair, I would agree that there is moisture in the system and I would recommend letting the pump run overnight return in the morning,( change the oil one more time right before you leave for the night) charge the system with r22 and test the compressor before ordering a new one, maybe the other company was wrong about that too?

  • @topher8634
    @topher8634 Год назад +1

    Just moisture trapped. If crankcase heater works you could energize it to help boil it off from compressor oil. If R-22 it's probably mineral oil...idk some Trane replacement compressors come with POE. If it is then unsweat compressor and tip over towards suction to drain then refill with same amount of new oil. I'm sure drier is saturated as well. You could triple evac-pull semi deep vac then break with nitro wait 30 min then repeat ending with a deep vac. You could leave with nitro holding charge overnight then vacuum next day (this is usually what I do on damp systems.) I've repaired many leaks on Trane RTUs- usually they all leak around where lines pass through chassis to indoor coil. Either they rub on chassis like this one or rub against liquid line.

  • @pualruiz
    @pualruiz Год назад +2

    Definitely replace the compressor if you are not going back with R22 , trane compressors do not like 407c, you will kill it, great stuff

  • @jimmylanders2175
    @jimmylanders2175 Год назад +4

    Great work and mad skills!

  • @davidc6648
    @davidc6648 Год назад

    To see if your compressor is still good is by ohm out each lead from the compressor, also if you say is true about the system being out to the atmosphere. Your compressor oil is saturated with moisture. Having to do a triple Vac, flushing the system with RX-12, and purging w/ nitrogen.

  • @carllungwitz5171
    @carllungwitz5171 Год назад +1

    Think you're on the right track

  • @AllEnemiesForeign_AndDomestic
    @AllEnemiesForeign_AndDomestic Год назад

    Replace the parts changer outer. I’ll get that system on line with the quickness.

  • @Lewdacris916
    @Lewdacris916 Год назад +4

    i would of tested the windings on the compressor, if the hvac guys hooked up the fan motors wrong who knows what else was BS

  • @ApartmentMaintenancePro
    @ApartmentMaintenancePro  Год назад

    Check out part two of this repair here - ruclips.net/video/teKYLpDnW9Y/видео.html

  • @timcastilo6962
    @timcastilo6962 Год назад +1

    Why is there black tape in your gauges?

    • @ApartmentMaintenancePro
      @ApartmentMaintenancePro  Год назад

      I do modeling sometimes. No logos in photos videos I sell just makes it easier when editing

  • @joshstevens9826
    @joshstevens9826 Год назад +1

    When the vacuum stalls, sweep with nitro vacuum goes way quicker

  • @MariosACandRefrigeration
    @MariosACandRefrigeration Год назад

    first ,if it had LPS and protected itself,flow nitrogen,new drier ,vacuum,and recharge with R407c,it is a replacement compressor with POE oil,replace motor if shorted?,remove service ports on low side and high and stub it out , it will crack like that ,dont ask me how i know.add service valve before drier to pump it down to replace drier if needed.and test port on leaving side to check pressure drop.check heat exchanger for cracks.thanks for sharing.

  • @Alex-jo2oi
    @Alex-jo2oi Год назад +2

    Looks like the leak formed there because of excessive operating vibration digging into the copper pipe... Maybe throw some soft insulation tape around the edges of that hole to help combat that issue?... just an observational suggestion. Good work man.

    • @Alex-jo2oi
      @Alex-jo2oi Год назад +1

      noticed you did do that as i continued to watch... good stuff

    • @ApartmentMaintenancePro
      @ApartmentMaintenancePro  Год назад +3

      Thanks, I did wrap some armaflex around it I thought I had put that in the vid but maybe not

    • @joshuaricks7730
      @joshuaricks7730 Год назад +2

      You did put that in the video.

    • @topher8634
      @topher8634 Год назад +2

      I usually split some heater hose and wrap around the line to stop the rubbing. Every leak I've found in Trane RTUs is right in this area where lines pass through chassis to indoor coil.

    • @Alex-jo2oi
      @Alex-jo2oi Год назад +1

      @@topher8634 makes sense and I’m sure trane knows this lol

  • @abdullah_q8171
    @abdullah_q8171 Год назад +1

    Why there is 2 compressors deference sizes and colors ?

    • @derrickjohnson5299
      @derrickjohnson5299 Год назад +2

      It’s a two stage unit. It will generally run on one compressor (the bigger one) but the other compressor will kick in if the heat load calls for it. It looks like the blue compressor may have been replaced at some point before and this is why it’s a different color. I’m still an apprentice so don’t kill me if I’m wrong🤷‍♂️

    • @abdullah_q8171
      @abdullah_q8171 Год назад +1

      @@derrickjohnson5299 lol Thanks for the valuable clarification 👍🏻

    • @ApartmentMaintenancePro
      @ApartmentMaintenancePro  Год назад +2

      You got it 👍

    • @joshuaricks7730
      @joshuaricks7730 Год назад +1

      On newer high efficiency units like this, having two different size compressors will enable the unit to be configured as a 3 stage cooling unit. On this configuration, the smaller of the two compressors will be the first stage, then if needed, the bigger compressor will become energized while the smaller one becomes deenergized. Then if needed the 3rd stage will be both compressors at the same time. In this configuration there isnt a "lead lag" as traditional units have. This is still achieved with a normal 2 stage thermostat.

    • @topher8634
      @topher8634 Год назад +2

      Some units have multiple stages of refrigeration. While some multi-stage units have the same capacity on all stages, some have stages with different capacities. For example Y1=10 ton; Y2=7.5 ton. The larger circuit is your first stage or first call for cooling. If the thermostat doesn't satisfy within a reasonable time or if there is a large difference between room temp and setpoint it will bring on the other stage. Commercial buildings require a lot of fresh air to be brought in through HVAC systems therefore additional cooling is needed to condition the outside air.

  • @rgruenhaus
    @rgruenhaus Год назад

    I thought you were Robert Downey Jr! LOL

  • @shafiqshaikh5224
    @shafiqshaikh5224 Год назад

    Boos vire good job experience and you have job

  • @Alex-jo2oi
    @Alex-jo2oi Год назад +1

    I hope you flowed nitro when brazing..

  • @awilkins-ht5xn
    @awilkins-ht5xn Год назад

    Great job!

  • @gordonpotts753
    @gordonpotts753 Год назад

    U did well

  • @jstewart4947
    @jstewart4947 Год назад

    I feel like when it's an 18 pound system you gotta pressure rest over night at 200 psi that's not enough to find a leak

    • @ApartmentMaintenancePro
      @ApartmentMaintenancePro  Год назад

      Micron gauge is 1000% better than a nitrogen pressure test and it takes about 10 minutes once it's vacuumed down 👍

    • @davidmorrow6571
      @davidmorrow6571 Год назад

      I used to rely on micron gauge for leak check, until i realized that the biggest pressure differential you can create is only 14.6 psi, with a perfect vacuum. Nitrogen will get you 10-20 times that pressure. Plus, sometimes the micron gauge may be responding to water vapor that was trapped in oil for a long time during the decay test, then released.

    • @ApartmentMaintenancePro
      @ApartmentMaintenancePro  Год назад +1

      @@davidmorrow6571 Someone can correct me but, I was taught and instructed through many techs with way more experience than me, any rise over 1500 microns after 10 minutes of a 500 micron reading indicates a significant leak. below 1000 may be moisture in the system, which I've seen many times, including this video. Significant leak could be a few ounces a year, your nitrogen pressure test isn't going to pick that up even at 400 psi. There is also no such thing as a 'leak free' or 'sealed' system it all leaks out eventually. As HVAC techs we try an keep that under an ounce a year though.

    • @davidmorrow6571
      @davidmorrow6571 Год назад

      @@ApartmentMaintenancePro yep that’s true. A rise like that over a short time usually indicates a fast leaker. But my point really is that some leaks may not reveal themselves at that low of a pressure differential. Both techniques are important and have their place. 1000% better struck me as a bit extreme imho. Either way, I loved the video, and much respect to you for the work you’re doing. 🤟

  • @jenniferfigueroa694
    @jenniferfigueroa694 Год назад

    good job

  • @jeffgrant6914
    @jeffgrant6914 Год назад

    Good video buddy 👍

  • @bobbywanger8123
    @bobbywanger8123 Год назад +1

    👍👍👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥🔥

  • @gainmaster1
    @gainmaster1 Год назад

    Nice find

  • @shafiqshaikh5224
    @shafiqshaikh5224 Год назад +1

    I'm AC mechanic foor india I'm working for 9 years working experience and UAE Jebel Ali port

  • @gotDIBS
    @gotDIBS Год назад +1

    Nate certified?

    • @ApartmentMaintenancePro
      @ApartmentMaintenancePro  Год назад +2

      I''ve been slacking. I have the study guide and have studied the study guide just need to make the time to take the test.

  • @shafiqshaikh5224
    @shafiqshaikh5224 Год назад

    Hi. Boos

  • @huntleybokuhlmann4918
    @huntleybokuhlmann4918 Год назад

    😆 *promosm*

  • @joebyron9
    @joebyron9 Год назад +1

    she ain’t pretty but she’ll hold🫡