Awesome repairman skills Dave. It’s sad that the “professionals” don’t bother to diagnose and offer to repair, it’s all about that sell. Us multi family techs are the problem solvers. You’d definitely an asset. Keep up the great work and I’m loving the direction of the channel.
Seems like moisture in system, I’d try triple evacuation. Add nitrogen do vacuum and keep doing the same to break the moisture or oil droplet. Also I also flush lines with nitro before vacuum . Good job man!
Great job brother. Yes I would agree with the fact of you having moisture in the system. Hook up nitrogen and purge the lines slightly, flowing a small amount through. You do not need to pressurize the system while doing this. At the most like 5 psi while flowing. Do that for about 5 minutes and then pull vacuum again. Make sure to purge your hoses prior to adding the nitrogen as if it were refrigerant. 🤙🤙
Hey man, great to see a fellow Trinidadian, am also a service guy also been in the business for 40 years. I love watching the AC repair videos, brings back a lot of memories. Be well brother.
Good video, and GREAT FIND!! And from experience, many owners, they just want you to get that thing going and blowing cold. Without spending a fortune. That's probably a good stopping point. And if the owner wants a new compressor, well, go all in then. I would also look for a rubber or plastic grommet that can be inserted where the leak was. The leak occured because the refrigerant line keep shaking and rubbing up against the metal. Those Trane units have a problem with shaking causing leaks
Just moisture trapped. If crankcase heater works you could energize it to help boil it off from compressor oil. If R-22 it's probably mineral oil...idk some Trane replacement compressors come with POE. If it is then unsweat compressor and tip over towards suction to drain then refill with same amount of new oil. I'm sure drier is saturated as well. You could triple evac-pull semi deep vac then break with nitro wait 30 min then repeat ending with a deep vac. You could leave with nitro holding charge overnight then vacuum next day (this is usually what I do on damp systems.) I've repaired many leaks on Trane RTUs- usually they all leak around where lines pass through chassis to indoor coil. Either they rub on chassis like this one or rub against liquid line.
Good job on that repair, I would agree that there is moisture in the system and I would recommend letting the pump run overnight return in the morning,( change the oil one more time right before you leave for the night) charge the system with r22 and test the compressor before ordering a new one, maybe the other company was wrong about that too?
To see if your compressor is still good is by ohm out each lead from the compressor, also if you say is true about the system being out to the atmosphere. Your compressor oil is saturated with moisture. Having to do a triple Vac, flushing the system with RX-12, and purging w/ nitrogen.
Looks like the leak formed there because of excessive operating vibration digging into the copper pipe... Maybe throw some soft insulation tape around the edges of that hole to help combat that issue?... just an observational suggestion. Good work man.
I usually split some heater hose and wrap around the line to stop the rubbing. Every leak I've found in Trane RTUs is right in this area where lines pass through chassis to indoor coil.
first ,if it had LPS and protected itself,flow nitrogen,new drier ,vacuum,and recharge with R407c,it is a replacement compressor with POE oil,replace motor if shorted?,remove service ports on low side and high and stub it out , it will crack like that ,dont ask me how i know.add service valve before drier to pump it down to replace drier if needed.and test port on leaving side to check pressure drop.check heat exchanger for cracks.thanks for sharing.
I used to rely on micron gauge for leak check, until i realized that the biggest pressure differential you can create is only 14.6 psi, with a perfect vacuum. Nitrogen will get you 10-20 times that pressure. Plus, sometimes the micron gauge may be responding to water vapor that was trapped in oil for a long time during the decay test, then released.
@@davidmorrow6571 Someone can correct me but, I was taught and instructed through many techs with way more experience than me, any rise over 1500 microns after 10 minutes of a 500 micron reading indicates a significant leak. below 1000 may be moisture in the system, which I've seen many times, including this video. Significant leak could be a few ounces a year, your nitrogen pressure test isn't going to pick that up even at 400 psi. There is also no such thing as a 'leak free' or 'sealed' system it all leaks out eventually. As HVAC techs we try an keep that under an ounce a year though.
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro yep that’s true. A rise like that over a short time usually indicates a fast leaker. But my point really is that some leaks may not reveal themselves at that low of a pressure differential. Both techniques are important and have their place. 1000% better struck me as a bit extreme imho. Either way, I loved the video, and much respect to you for the work you’re doing. 🤟
It’s a two stage unit. It will generally run on one compressor (the bigger one) but the other compressor will kick in if the heat load calls for it. It looks like the blue compressor may have been replaced at some point before and this is why it’s a different color. I’m still an apprentice so don’t kill me if I’m wrong🤷♂️
On newer high efficiency units like this, having two different size compressors will enable the unit to be configured as a 3 stage cooling unit. On this configuration, the smaller of the two compressors will be the first stage, then if needed, the bigger compressor will become energized while the smaller one becomes deenergized. Then if needed the 3rd stage will be both compressors at the same time. In this configuration there isnt a "lead lag" as traditional units have. This is still achieved with a normal 2 stage thermostat.
Some units have multiple stages of refrigeration. While some multi-stage units have the same capacity on all stages, some have stages with different capacities. For example Y1=10 ton; Y2=7.5 ton. The larger circuit is your first stage or first call for cooling. If the thermostat doesn't satisfy within a reasonable time or if there is a large difference between room temp and setpoint it will bring on the other stage. Commercial buildings require a lot of fresh air to be brought in through HVAC systems therefore additional cooling is needed to condition the outside air.
Awesome repairman skills Dave. It’s sad that the “professionals” don’t bother to diagnose and offer to repair, it’s all about that sell.
Us multi family techs are the problem solvers. You’d definitely an asset. Keep up the great work and I’m loving the direction of the channel.
Really appreciate that thank you!
Seems like moisture in system, I’d try triple evacuation. Add nitrogen do vacuum and keep doing the same to break the moisture or oil droplet. Also I also flush lines with nitro before vacuum . Good job man!
Thank you for the input!
good idea. its been yrs since it had ref.
Great job brother. Yes I would agree with the fact of you having moisture in the system. Hook up nitrogen and purge the lines slightly, flowing a small amount through. You do not need to pressurize the system while doing this. At the most like 5 psi while flowing. Do that for about 5 minutes and then pull vacuum again. Make sure to purge your hoses prior to adding the nitrogen as if it were refrigerant. 🤙🤙
I enjoyed working on those Trane equipment, did it for 24yrs in Trinidad and Tobago
Hey man, great to see a fellow Trinidadian, am also a service guy also been in the business for 40 years.
I love watching the AC repair videos, brings back a lot of memories. Be well brother.
Good video, and GREAT FIND!! And from experience, many owners, they just want you to get that thing going and blowing cold. Without spending a fortune. That's probably a good stopping point. And if the owner wants a new compressor, well, go all in then. I would also look for a rubber or plastic grommet that can be inserted where the leak was. The leak occured because the refrigerant line keep shaking and rubbing up against the metal. Those Trane units have a problem with shaking causing leaks
Appreciate it the feedback !
Replace parts--- you got this, and you're doing it correctly --- I just re installed an old 22 unit and it works great.
Thanks you Ray!! 🛠🛠🛠
Way to take care charge bro! Love the initiative you took on this issue!
I appreciate it Tony!
Just moisture trapped. If crankcase heater works you could energize it to help boil it off from compressor oil. If R-22 it's probably mineral oil...idk some Trane replacement compressors come with POE. If it is then unsweat compressor and tip over towards suction to drain then refill with same amount of new oil. I'm sure drier is saturated as well. You could triple evac-pull semi deep vac then break with nitro wait 30 min then repeat ending with a deep vac. You could leave with nitro holding charge overnight then vacuum next day (this is usually what I do on damp systems.) I've repaired many leaks on Trane RTUs- usually they all leak around where lines pass through chassis to indoor coil. Either they rub on chassis like this one or rub against liquid line.
Thank you so much for the reply this helps !! :)
Definitely replace the compressor if you are not going back with R22 , trane compressors do not like 407c, you will kill it, great stuff
Great work and mad skills!
Thank you !!
Good job on that repair, I would agree that there is moisture in the system and I would recommend letting the pump run overnight return in the morning,( change the oil one more time right before you leave for the night) charge the system with r22 and test the compressor before ordering a new one, maybe the other company was wrong about that too?
i would of tested the windings on the compressor, if the hvac guys hooked up the fan motors wrong who knows what else was BS
I tested them
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro was it shorted to ground?
To see if your compressor is still good is by ohm out each lead from the compressor, also if you say is true about the system being out to the atmosphere. Your compressor oil is saturated with moisture. Having to do a triple Vac, flushing the system with RX-12, and purging w/ nitrogen.
Replace the parts changer outer. I’ll get that system on line with the quickness.
Looks like the leak formed there because of excessive operating vibration digging into the copper pipe... Maybe throw some soft insulation tape around the edges of that hole to help combat that issue?... just an observational suggestion. Good work man.
noticed you did do that as i continued to watch... good stuff
Thanks, I did wrap some armaflex around it I thought I had put that in the vid but maybe not
You did put that in the video.
I usually split some heater hose and wrap around the line to stop the rubbing. Every leak I've found in Trane RTUs is right in this area where lines pass through chassis to indoor coil.
@@topher8634 makes sense and I’m sure trane knows this lol
Think you're on the right track
When the vacuum stalls, sweep with nitro vacuum goes way quicker
Thanks!
first ,if it had LPS and protected itself,flow nitrogen,new drier ,vacuum,and recharge with R407c,it is a replacement compressor with POE oil,replace motor if shorted?,remove service ports on low side and high and stub it out , it will crack like that ,dont ask me how i know.add service valve before drier to pump it down to replace drier if needed.and test port on leaving side to check pressure drop.check heat exchanger for cracks.thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the comment this is great information :) The LPS is functional.
Why is there black tape in your gauges?
I do modeling sometimes. No logos in photos videos I sell just makes it easier when editing
I hope you flowed nitro when brazing..
sure
Boos vire good job experience and you have job
Great job!
Thanks!
I'm AC mechanic foor india I'm working for 9 years working experience and UAE Jebel Ali port
Nice!
I thought you were Robert Downey Jr! LOL
I feel like when it's an 18 pound system you gotta pressure rest over night at 200 psi that's not enough to find a leak
Micron gauge is 1000% better than a nitrogen pressure test and it takes about 10 minutes once it's vacuumed down 👍
I used to rely on micron gauge for leak check, until i realized that the biggest pressure differential you can create is only 14.6 psi, with a perfect vacuum. Nitrogen will get you 10-20 times that pressure. Plus, sometimes the micron gauge may be responding to water vapor that was trapped in oil for a long time during the decay test, then released.
@@davidmorrow6571 Someone can correct me but, I was taught and instructed through many techs with way more experience than me, any rise over 1500 microns after 10 minutes of a 500 micron reading indicates a significant leak. below 1000 may be moisture in the system, which I've seen many times, including this video. Significant leak could be a few ounces a year, your nitrogen pressure test isn't going to pick that up even at 400 psi. There is also no such thing as a 'leak free' or 'sealed' system it all leaks out eventually. As HVAC techs we try an keep that under an ounce a year though.
@@ApartmentMaintenancePro yep that’s true. A rise like that over a short time usually indicates a fast leaker. But my point really is that some leaks may not reveal themselves at that low of a pressure differential. Both techniques are important and have their place. 1000% better struck me as a bit extreme imho. Either way, I loved the video, and much respect to you for the work you’re doing. 🤟
U did well
good job
Why there is 2 compressors deference sizes and colors ?
It’s a two stage unit. It will generally run on one compressor (the bigger one) but the other compressor will kick in if the heat load calls for it. It looks like the blue compressor may have been replaced at some point before and this is why it’s a different color. I’m still an apprentice so don’t kill me if I’m wrong🤷♂️
@@derrickjohnson5299 lol Thanks for the valuable clarification 👍🏻
You got it 👍
On newer high efficiency units like this, having two different size compressors will enable the unit to be configured as a 3 stage cooling unit. On this configuration, the smaller of the two compressors will be the first stage, then if needed, the bigger compressor will become energized while the smaller one becomes deenergized. Then if needed the 3rd stage will be both compressors at the same time. In this configuration there isnt a "lead lag" as traditional units have. This is still achieved with a normal 2 stage thermostat.
Some units have multiple stages of refrigeration. While some multi-stage units have the same capacity on all stages, some have stages with different capacities. For example Y1=10 ton; Y2=7.5 ton. The larger circuit is your first stage or first call for cooling. If the thermostat doesn't satisfy within a reasonable time or if there is a large difference between room temp and setpoint it will bring on the other stage. Commercial buildings require a lot of fresh air to be brought in through HVAC systems therefore additional cooling is needed to condition the outside air.
Good video buddy 👍
Nice find
Nate certified?
I''ve been slacking. I have the study guide and have studied the study guide just need to make the time to take the test.
Check out part two of this repair here - ruclips.net/video/teKYLpDnW9Y/видео.html
👍👍👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥🔥
Hi. Boos
😆 *promosm*
she ain’t pretty but she’ll hold🫡
Yep 👍