Worked exactly as described. I had 5 cracks to fix, and only needed 2 kits, and had to buy extra nozzles and extra tube of PU. I used an angle grinder with masonry blade to cut a v notch into the crack, and an air compressor to clear out any debris. (tarp off the area with a shopvac running to catch the dust). I used a silicone adhesive to mount the ports to the wall, anywhere from 4"-8" apart. The smaller the crack, the closer I spaced the ports. The cracks near the bottom were almost hairline, and at the top they were 1/32". When mixing the mortar mix, you have to mix in small amounts because it hardens fast. I used a spray paint can lid to measure a consistent amount of mix, and less than 1/3 of the same lid for water. I was able to cover as much as 4 ports with the mix if I worked very fast, very often it ended up only covering 2. Each kit came with 3 bags of mortar mix, and I was able to cover about 12-14 ports and 6 feet of crack with one bag. I found you can spray water on the mix to add some life to it, but it does still harden quick. Even though I thought I did a good job, there were still leaks. If you leave all the plugs in place, and spray lots of water in the top port, water can come out further down and show you where the leaks are, and provide you with an opportunity to patch them before filling with the PU expanding foam. A single tube of the PU was enough to do about 7-8 feet of foundation wall with a 1/32' crack. I assume it would take more with a larger crack. When injecting, go slow, and be patient. It can take 4-5 minutes for the PU to work it's way up the crack and to the next port. Just keep pressure on the injection. A lot of product will squeeze outside, so near the top of the foundation wall, above grade, unless you plug the exposed part of the crack, you will lose a lot of product. It does cut off nicely with a disposable knife, but leaves a yellow trace in the crack that stands out when done. Hope that helps everyone. Thanks to all those that also left their instructions ahead of this for me.
What happens to the glue when it reaches the soil on the bottom of the crack or outside, below grade? Are we counting contact with the soil moisture to cure it so it doesn't just drain away?
How much water do you need to spray into the ports before injecting the PU? Does it just require a few sprays like in the video or does the entire depth of the crack need to be wetted and be better served with something like a squeeze bottle of water?
I just used this product. The hydraulic cement they provide is very tough to work with especially if you've never mixed mortar before. The idea and product itself makes sense but I would opt for buying a different type of hydraulic cement and buy the tube separately only issue is I'm not sure if you can buy the T ports without buying the actual kit. I think the product is going to work although I had some of the PU leaking through the hydraulic cement. We will have to wait and see. I've worked in masonry and worked with a lot of hydraulic cement this stuff sets up faster then anything I've ever used.
First of all, I know this is an old post. I’ve been in foundation work for a long time seeing how they’re supposed to be and how when they’re not how they fail. Physical therapist asked me what’s the best way to get rid of foundation leaks. He wanted to seal the inside of the basement with total vapor barrier application newfangled Idea. I told him you don’t have a foundation leak. You have a drainage problem around your house. I don’t think he ever listened. I never would give him advice about physical therapy, but he just didn’t want to hear my advice about actually putting working drainage around the home. My father 45 years ago. We still have the driest basement in the county. Northeast Michigan. PS we also put drain on the inside under the floor little overkill. That’s what the military Housing were doing at the time.
@@iim1914 no but the epoxy filled the outside crack completely so much that it has a nice line drip back down the foundation. We've had a lot of rain here and still bone dry in the basement.
My v-groove is wider than 1/4, however the crack is 1/4 or less, after removing all traces of a previous hydraulic cement repair,l it appears that the crack does not continue to the lower half of my wall. although the v groove continues to the bottom of floor should i drill into the groove itself? Should I be looking for a different product?
Heather Simon We just finished using this product and it was just so stressful, messy, and the box didn't have enough mortar. It has enough for 5 plugs but they give you 20. We used 18. The video makes it look so easy but the plugs didn't stick, and the stuff was running everywhere...what a mess. I would never recommend this product to anyone and I would pay for a professional to fix a leak. The only nice thing about this experience is the gentleman who returned my call but that was only after I phoned every one of their extensions and was put on an answering machine each time.
If the surface is dust free and dry, the T's can be stuck to the wall using a hot glue gun. The cement mix drys very fast. So mix in small batches. I used a rubber gloves to paste the cement on the wall and worked well. All the best
For information regarding the product performance and limitations, please refer to the product data sheet available online: can.sika.com/en/solutions_products/document_download/SikaFix_PDS_Alpha.html
Hello, a kit should enable you to fix a 2.4 m (8 ft) long x 200 mm (8 in) deep x 3 mm (1/8 in) wide crack. For more information, consult the product data sheet available here: can.sika.com/en/solutions-and-products/document-download/SikaFix_PDS_Alpha.html
Thank you for your question. Yes, you may cut the ports once the injection is completed. It is recommended to wait at least a week before cutting the ports. For more information, please consult the product data sheet by clicking on the link: bit.ly/1vojFGW Best regards,
a) Why can't you just use the mortar to seal the crack - without the PU? b) Why can't you just use the SikaFix PU to seal the crack - without the mortar?
a) You need to fill the crack throughout the whole width of the foundation. Just sealing it from the inside water will still get into the crack, expand and contract, and eventually leak again. b) The mortar is to seal the crack on the inside so when you inject the pu it diesnt just come back out through the crack into the house. The mortar doesn't adhere very well. I recommend Simpson Crack Pac instead.
I am in Chicago and need three kits or more! I cannot find this kit anywhere on the Home Depot website locally. it is not listed on the website. Please help me locate a vendor who can sell me this EXACT kit. Thank you.
We do thank you for your enquiry and interest for Sika products. For your information, Sika is structured in North America in such a way that, we, Sika Canada, cannot sell and support products on the US market and vice-versa when it comes to our American colleagues at Sika Corp. So we have checked with them to see if the product was available in the States but unfortunately, this not the case. To get an overview of the products and solutions available for residential customers in the States: usa.sika.com/content/usa/main/en/residential/residential-home.html In order to contact our colleagues in the States covering the residential market: usa.sika.com/en/residential/residential-home/contact-residential.html Best regards, Sika Canada's Marketing Team
I think it would be wise. I worked at a mill that had stress cracks in the floors, and we used epoxy on them. We pored in in with those mustard containers. It took forever on some cracks. I asked my boss " Why can't we inject it like the walls" He was afraid it would lift the slab. I said " How can it when you have the nipples that would fill up, and cap then go to the next." I think it was a Time and Material job. I know I put a whole gallon in some cracks. Killed My Knees even with pads!
This kit didn't work very well. The mortar they supply to seal off around the injection ports flaked off and caused leaks. I had to redo the whole job again. Second time around I used Simpson Crack Pac. About double the price but worked great. I wouldn't recommend anyone use this SikaFix Kit.
all structural engineers want epoxy crack injections by reputable contractors and most experienced home inspectors,when you put up house for sale buyers will ask for warranty, Good luck injecting a quality epoxy once crack tampered with or has foam / polyurethane in it. DO IT ONCE - PAY ONCE - DO IT RIGHT -PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT. DONT SET YOURSELF UP NOT TO BE IN DRIVERS SEAT WHEN SELLING YOUR HOME.thank Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing
Most contractors I've talked to will use Polyurethane injection. One even said the industry might ban epoxy because it doesn't work well in the long run. Don't know who to believe :)
This stuff sucks. The tubs don’t stick with glue . The stuff in bags hardens so fast you have no time . Ow don’t use two bags.This is like throwing money in the air . No good at all
Worked exactly as described. I had 5 cracks to fix, and only needed 2 kits, and had to buy extra nozzles and extra tube of PU. I used an angle grinder with masonry blade to cut a v notch into the crack, and an air compressor to clear out any debris. (tarp off the area with a shopvac running to catch the dust). I used a silicone adhesive to mount the ports to the wall, anywhere from 4"-8" apart. The smaller the crack, the closer I spaced the ports. The cracks near the bottom were almost hairline, and at the top they were 1/32". When mixing the mortar mix, you have to mix in small amounts because it hardens fast. I used a spray paint can lid to measure a consistent amount of mix, and less than 1/3 of the same lid for water. I was able to cover as much as 4 ports with the mix if I worked very fast, very often it ended up only covering 2. Each kit came with 3 bags of mortar mix, and I was able to cover about 12-14 ports and 6 feet of crack with one bag. I found you can spray water on the mix to add some life to it, but it does still harden quick. Even though I thought I did a good job, there were still leaks. If you leave all the plugs in place, and spray lots of water in the top port, water can come out further down and show you where the leaks are, and provide you with an opportunity to patch them before filling with the PU expanding foam. A single tube of the PU was enough to do about 7-8 feet of foundation wall with a 1/32' crack. I assume it would take more with a larger crack. When injecting, go slow, and be patient. It can take 4-5 minutes for the PU to work it's way up the crack and to the next port. Just keep pressure on the injection. A lot of product will squeeze outside, so near the top of the foundation wall, above grade, unless you plug the exposed part of the crack, you will lose a lot of product. It does cut off nicely with a disposable knife, but leaves a yellow trace in the crack that stands out when done. Hope that helps everyone. Thanks to all those that also left their instructions ahead of this for me.
What happens to the glue when it reaches the soil on the bottom of the crack or outside, below grade? Are we counting contact with the soil moisture to cure it so it doesn't just drain away?
How much water do you need to spray into the ports before injecting the PU? Does it just require a few sprays like in the video or does the entire depth of the crack need to be wetted and be better served with something like a squeeze bottle of water?
I just used this product. The hydraulic cement they provide is very tough to work with especially if you've never mixed mortar before. The idea and product itself makes sense but I would opt for buying a different type of hydraulic cement and buy the tube separately only issue is I'm not sure if you can buy the T ports without buying the actual kit. I think the product is going to work although I had some of the PU leaking through the hydraulic cement. We will have to wait and see. I've worked in masonry and worked with a lot of hydraulic cement this stuff sets up faster then anything I've ever used.
Hey did it work? trying to use it in my basement that had 4" vertical crack leaking water when it rains
Yes it did work
First of all, I know this is an old post. I’ve been in foundation work for a long time seeing how they’re supposed to be and how when they’re not how they fail. Physical therapist asked me what’s the best way to get rid of foundation leaks. He wanted to seal the inside of the basement with total vapor barrier application newfangled Idea. I told him you don’t have a foundation leak. You have a drainage problem around your house. I don’t think he ever listened. I never would give him advice about physical therapy, but he just didn’t want to hear my advice about actually putting working drainage around the home. My father 45 years ago. We still have the driest basement in the county. Northeast Michigan. PS we also put drain on the inside under the floor little overkill. That’s what the military Housing were doing at the time.
How does the crack sealant work since you are using mortar first? Does it seep through the mortar?
It worked. Thank you for the video
@@duvall6334 Did it sweep through the mortar on the outside?
@@iim1914I see some of the epoxy that came through the crack on the outside not my home. I am 100%confident it fixed the leak.
@@duvall6334Thanks. Did you apply the mortar on the outside before injecting?
@@iim1914 no but the epoxy filled the outside crack completely so much that it has a nice line drip back down the foundation. We've had a lot of rain here and still bone dry in the basement.
Best job from outside or inside ?
It’s telling me on my directions to drill 1/4 inch hole and put the plastic pieces the other way?? Does this make sense ?
Do you leave the Injection T's in the wall wants everything is done?
Good question I see you never got a response.
No you can cut them flush to wall after everything is dry...Give a good 48 hours before cutting
Can I use the Sika Plug mortar to seal the crack from outside after injecting from inside?
"before starting the injection spray water through each injection port"----how many millilitres water to be sprayed ?
My v-groove is wider than 1/4, however the crack is 1/4 or less, after removing all traces of a previous hydraulic cement repair,l it appears that the crack does not continue to the lower half of my wall. although the v groove continues to the bottom of floor should i drill into the groove itself? Should I be looking for a different product?
would this product work on corner where the north and east walls meet big crack water came this spring
So did it work have this same problem my crack is in the corner how do i put these injectin ts in the corner
Is it possible to find (buy) this injection resin in Europe?
can you use this outside instead of inside
Heather Simon
We just finished using this product and it was just so stressful, messy, and the box didn't have enough mortar. It has enough for 5 plugs but they give you 20. We used 18. The video makes it look so easy but the plugs didn't stick, and the stuff was running everywhere...what a mess. I would never recommend this product to anyone and I would pay for a professional to fix a leak. The only nice thing about this experience is the gentleman who returned my call but that was only after I phoned every one of their extensions and was put on an answering machine each time.
If the surface is dust free and dry, the T's can be stuck to the wall using a hot glue gun. The cement mix drys very fast. So mix in small batches. I used a rubber gloves to paste the cement on the wall and worked well. All the best
For information regarding the product performance and limitations, please refer to the product data sheet available online: can.sika.com/en/solutions_products/document_download/SikaFix_PDS_Alpha.html
Is the whole crack in the video done with one kit? (I have a hairline crack that is probably 2/3 the length of the crack in the video)
Hello, a kit should enable you to fix a 2.4 m (8 ft) long x 200 mm (8 in) deep x 3 mm (1/8 in) wide crack. For more information, consult the product data sheet available here: can.sika.com/en/solutions-and-products/document-download/SikaFix_PDS_Alpha.html
Where do i purchase this kit please
What is the maximum crack width for this system
8 inch width and the kit is good for 8 feet worth of crack.
Anyone know if are we able to cut the nipple on the ports after it's cured for a few days? Or do we have to leave them as is for good? Thanks
Thank you for your question. Yes, you may cut the ports once the injection is completed. It is recommended to wait at least a week before cutting the ports.
For more information, please consult the product data sheet by clicking on the link: bit.ly/1vojFGW
Best regards,
@SikaCanadaInc hello does this work for corner wall cracks how do i put the injection ts if so thanks
Is this available in Sri Lanka?
My crack is probably deep because i almost use all of 1 tube of PU in the first injection tube 😞
is this available in India
a) Why can't you just use the mortar to seal the crack - without the PU?
b) Why can't you just use the SikaFix PU to seal the crack - without the mortar?
a) You need to fill the crack throughout the whole width of the foundation. Just sealing it from the inside water will still get into the crack, expand and contract, and eventually leak again.
b) The mortar is to seal the crack on the inside so when you inject the pu it diesnt just come back out through the crack into the house. The mortar doesn't adhere very well. I recommend Simpson Crack Pac instead.
I am in Chicago and need three kits or more! I cannot find this kit anywhere on the Home Depot website locally. it is not listed on the website. Please help me locate a vendor who can sell me this EXACT kit. Thank you.
When I need something I first check ebay. There should be other products out there that uses a similar method. Good luck!
Thank you David Regan! I will check E-bay!
We do thank you for your enquiry and interest for Sika products.
For your information, Sika is structured in North America in such a way that, we, Sika Canada, cannot sell and support products on the US market and vice-versa when it comes to our American colleagues at Sika Corp. So we have checked with them to see if the product was available in the States but unfortunately, this not the case.
To get an overview of the products and solutions available for residential customers in the States: usa.sika.com/content/usa/main/en/residential/residential-home.html
In order to contact our colleagues in the States covering the residential market:
usa.sika.com/en/residential/residential-home/contact-residential.html
Best regards, Sika Canada's Marketing Team
This product is more difficult to work with than what is shown in this video. Recommend hiring a professional that has experience working with it.
I think it would be wise. I worked at a mill that had stress cracks in the floors, and we used epoxy on them. We pored in in with those mustard containers. It took forever on some cracks. I asked my boss " Why can't we inject it like the walls" He was afraid it would lift the slab. I said " How can it when you have the nipples that would fill up, and cap then go to the next." I think it was a Time and Material job. I know I put a whole gallon in some cracks. Killed My Knees even with pads!
This kit didn't work very well. The mortar they supply to seal off around the injection ports flaked off and caused leaks. I had to redo the whole job again. Second time around I used Simpson Crack Pac. About double the price but worked great. I wouldn't recommend anyone use this SikaFix Kit.
Please indicate its place of availability in Visakhapatnam Andhrapadesh and its cost
Hello, please contact Sika India to know availability and price at: ind.sika.com/en/system/contact/Waterproofing-Contact-Form.html
Best regards,
where it a crack in tht drive way
do our pants have to be that tight?
Classic woman that's asked her husband for years to "fix that damn crack won't ya" and finally just does it her self cause he won't!
For me it's the professional. He was supposed to fix it in "mid January" it is now April. Oh well, saved me $5,000
Stop using the brush, you are destroying the pores. OMG stop using the brush.
all structural engineers want epoxy crack injections by reputable contractors and most experienced home inspectors,when you put up house for sale buyers will ask for warranty, Good luck injecting a quality epoxy once crack tampered with or has foam / polyurethane in it. DO IT ONCE - PAY ONCE - DO IT RIGHT -PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT. DONT SET YOURSELF UP NOT TO BE IN DRIVERS SEAT WHEN SELLING YOUR HOME.thank Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing
Most contractors I've talked to will use Polyurethane injection. One even said the industry might ban epoxy because it doesn't work well in the long run. Don't know who to believe :)
And when the only contractor in town ghosts you? He was supposed to be here 5 months ago. Unfortunately, he knows he's the only guy in town.
p
This stuff sucks. The tubs don’t stick with glue . The stuff in bags hardens so fast you have no time . Ow don’t use two bags.This is like throwing money in the air . No good at all
Useless!!