Beautiful work, should be wrapping up on my transom hopefully by weekend then on to the stringers so this video is timely. What is your stringers layout schedule? Keep the great content coming .
I’ve used a lot of them style of lasers. And you have it upside down. It may still work like that, but there usually on a little pendulum that selfs level them. But good idea
Thanks, yea the tripod is a Milwaukee tripod for the laser to mount under for low line areas. I'm not 100% sure but i believe it self levels to a certain degree.
Awesome work man! Love your videos! Would love any more tips on tracing out stringers onto cardboard. About to replace old stringers on my mako 19. Doing the transom and stringers like you did on your 17. Little nervous on getting the stringers traced out right.
Nice work. There’s no need for you to cover the Coosaboard with glass and epoxy. Just bog and tab your stringers in, you could possibly be using some peel ply too. This save will save you time and most importantly loot!.
Epoxy is much stronger. Spend the extra $$$ now and not later. I wont do poly resins below deck on a rebuild, thats just me and my standards. I know how well epoxy adheres to old glass. If you watch the video of me gutting out this SeaCraft you'll see all the delaminated glass i ripped out.
@@dylanbefishingthe entire hull is Poly along with the gelcoat and that lives below the waterline. The delamination happens due to poor prep and application not because of the failure of the resin. Epoxy is overkill for laminating Coosa. The bond strength of the epoxy will never be reached because the coosa will fail before the epoxy does. If you try to pull epoxy laminated glass off a piece of coosa the coosa will separate from itself. The weakness is the coring material not the resin itself. Also 1708 should not be used with epoxy resin. The extra layer of .75oz CSM will hold about 30% more resin than is necessary making your lamination heavier and also more brittle due to the higher percentage of resin to glass.
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I got same 3 laser level for my boat but I got it from Amazon for $100. Glad you discovered this tool. Nice project
Yea definitely worth it! I’m a Milwaukee geek so I had to get the Milwaukee over priced version lol
Disc quality of tool and your quality of work is going to bring your game to the next level. Good job congratulations
Beautiful work, should be wrapping up on my transom hopefully by weekend then on to the stringers so this video is timely. What is your stringers layout schedule? Keep the great content coming .
Nicely done! Looking like a great build!
appreciate that
The quality of your stringer system certainly exceeds that of the existing hull. Nice work!
Appreciate that! Always trying to exceed expectations 👌🏼
Nice job
Thanks! Appreciate that 🤙🏼
Super clean work
Thanks appreciate that 🤙🏼
@@dylanbefishing definitely going to be doing the stringers on my channel the same lol
hell ya man looks good. coring my 23' right now then im onto the stringers-nice laser trick going to steal that
Awesome work!
Great video work!
Must taken a week to edit it all.
Thanks! Glad someone understands lmao!
I’ve used a lot of them style of lasers. And you have it upside down. It may still work like that, but there usually on a little pendulum that selfs level them. But good idea
Thanks, yea the tripod is a Milwaukee tripod for the laser to mount under for low line areas. I'm not 100% sure but i believe it self levels to a certain degree.
Awesome work man! Love your videos! Would love any more tips on tracing out stringers onto cardboard. About to replace old stringers on my mako 19. Doing the transom and stringers like you did on your 17. Little nervous on getting the stringers traced out right.
I’ll send you a boat for stringers/transome any day!
Thanks man!
Nice work. There’s no need for you to cover the Coosaboard with glass and epoxy. Just bog and tab your stringers in, you could possibly be using some peel ply too. This save will save you time and most importantly loot!.
False. Coosa is 28lb fiberglass reinforced foam. It absolutely needs glass for it to have any strength.
Definitely going to try the peel ply methods for the kill box when I glass the last bulkhead in.
Saw the peel ply on your IG get method!
Looks great capt. Any reason you didn’t use poly or vinyl ester resins? Is epoxy cheaper?
Epoxy is much stronger. Spend the extra $$$ now and not later. I wont do poly resins below deck on a rebuild, thats just me and my standards. I know how well epoxy adheres to old glass. If you watch the video of me gutting out this SeaCraft you'll see all the delaminated glass i ripped out.
@@dylanbefishingthe entire hull is Poly along with the gelcoat and that lives below the waterline. The delamination happens due to poor prep and application not because of the failure of the resin. Epoxy is overkill for laminating Coosa. The bond strength of the epoxy will never be reached because the coosa will fail before the epoxy does. If you try to pull epoxy laminated glass off a piece of coosa the coosa will separate from itself. The weakness is the coring material not the resin itself. Also 1708 should not be used with epoxy resin. The extra layer of .75oz CSM will hold about 30% more resin than is necessary making your lamination heavier and also more brittle due to the higher percentage of resin to glass.
What’s up bro where you located?
Fort Lauderdale area
what is that mask/respirator?
scarf joint would have been better than butt joints. hull is probably my age and you are young enough to be my son... lol