Thank you so much for this! I'm trying to do this by myself and you showing it step by step simplified it for me by showing exactly what I needed and the complete instruction to do it. AWESOME 💯
@@Therealhomeinspectionauthority that is my goal on my project..to move standing water between our properties. Glad to see you don't let the haters get you down..
The pump and well need to be below the frost line. Do not use the one way valve. After the pump shuts off, allow water in the pipe to drain back. The adjustment of the float is critical. You don't want the water returned from the pipe to turn the pump back on. Don't use that pop-up thing, leave the end open so it can drain out the other end. If I did this, I'd connect the pump to a switched outlet so you can easily shut off the power in the coldest weather and turn it on when you feel it's safe. Let me know if you're seriously interested, I'll search and post a RUclips link that explains it.
I would not put a soakaway sump next to the building because it concentrates water flow to wash the fines from the building foundations that will ultimately cause subsidence. The 'jacket sump basin' will act as both soakaway and inlet depending on if the pump is active. The pump is also prone to freezing in that location.and lead to premature failure. The teflon tape has been wound the wrong way onto the threads as the action of threading will push the teflon to unwind. 1 1/2" (40mm) pipe is unsuitable for underground drainage as it cannot be easily rodded (cleaned). The pipe will silt up particularly as it will have standing water in it and then the possible only course of action would be to dig it up and replace it. Silt will also be discharged over the paving making lethal and unsightly underfoot. For a standing water situation as shown here, a 4" (100mm) drain should be installed with a yard gulley to discharge into a soakaway at a minimum of 10ft (3m) from any building or boundary or into the stormwater system, all complete with rodding access and laid to falls. .
This is EXACTLY what I fukn need. This design is Cherry, John!!!
most sump pumps recommend drilling a small 1/8 hole below the check valve to eliminate air bloc below the check valve
can you explain that in laymens terms?
Vent hole
Thank you so much for this! I'm trying to do this by myself and you showing it step by step simplified it for me by showing exactly what I needed and the complete instruction to do it. AWESOME 💯
Great to hear, lets us know how your installation comes out.
I don’t own a home yet but still found this interesting. Great content Authority!
Thank you Mr Hollywood, You definitely need a home before you can install this drainage system. Thanks for watching😀
Excellent video and great details on the job, thank you so much!
Awesome thank you sir for taking the time to do this video really helped
Your very welcome happy to help, Good luck on your project.
Nice job I'm working on a similar project .
Thank you, Of all my home improvement projects this one is my favorite so far. Very effective and worth doing even though its labor intensive.
Looks like it works great!
Yes sir, time well spent. If anyone has this condition on their property this drainage system is highly recommended.
Nice job
Thank You
I meant Did your sump pump last through the winter? with freezing temperatures
I am in southern California, we do not experience freezing temps here.
Nice job, now the water is your neighbors problem.
Actually i think my sump pump is moving some of my neighbors yard water too. 👍
@@Therealhomeinspectionauthority that is my goal on my project..to move standing water between our properties. Glad to see you don't let the haters get you down..
If you live in a cold environment do not use a check valve. The water it holds back will just freeze.
Thanks for the great advise.
That sump pump looks heavy duty
Mr. Laforme, do you have an email address? My Property has Slumlords and I would like to have a thorough Inspection of where we live.
Sure are you located in the los Angeles area @@thefew6332
Look like you just plug that sump pump into an outdoor receptacle Did you have to put that sump pump on its own breaker. Thx
did your sump pump last through the summer?
How would you do this if you were in an area that freezes in the winter?
Thats a great question!! I do not have that answer for you as i do not live in that type of climate. Maybe some other tubers can answer this.
The pump and well need to be below the frost line. Do not use the one way valve. After the pump shuts off, allow water in the pipe to drain back. The adjustment of the float is critical. You don't want the water returned from the pipe to turn the pump back on. Don't use that pop-up thing, leave the end open so it can drain out the other end.
If I did this, I'd connect the pump to a switched outlet so you can easily shut off the power in the coldest weather and turn it on when you feel it's safe.
Let me know if you're seriously interested, I'll search and post a RUclips link that explains it.
@@joeshmoe7789I'm interested. Plan is to collect surface and subsurface water so that it can then be pumped out (there's no available slope)
Is that Wayne pump rated for outdoor use?
Great work. Doing this install right now but the water will be coming from a downspout and a yard drain. Spending under $500 as well.
Awesome, Hope it solves your problem.
Are you located in an area where temperature will go below freezing? If so, how do you handle that? I'm in PA
I was gonna say 3/4HP was overkill. Then i saw the amount of water rushing out of the pop-up and said hmmm :)
it works awesome, i had about 75-80' of straight 2" pipe to the sidewalk!
I would not put a soakaway sump next to the building because it concentrates water flow to wash the fines from the building foundations that will ultimately cause subsidence. The 'jacket sump basin' will act as both soakaway and inlet depending on if the pump is active. The pump is also prone to freezing in that location.and lead to premature failure.
The teflon tape has been wound the wrong way onto the threads as the action of threading will push the teflon to unwind.
1 1/2" (40mm) pipe is unsuitable for underground drainage as it cannot be easily rodded (cleaned). The pipe will silt up particularly as it will have standing water in it and then the possible only course of action would be to dig it up and replace it. Silt will also be discharged over the paving making lethal and unsightly underfoot.
For a standing water situation as shown here, a 4" (100mm) drain should be installed with a yard gulley to discharge into a soakaway at a minimum of 10ft (3m) from any building or boundary or into the stormwater system, all complete with rodding access and laid to falls. .
Wow Clive, thank you for your input, However The installation is just fine the way it is. Happy to see you enjoyed picking apart the video.