You don’t need to add threads to the bed to be honest a nut underneath is sufficient. A pillar drill is a must to get a perfect hole as you mentioned. One thing I found when I was planning this conversion over 3 year’s ago you still have issues with bed shift on the vertical because of the linear rods. Now the solution I have come up with is a quad leadscrew system with a single z motor driving everything via two 1:1 gearboxes. I also replaced the linear rods with 4 linear rails mounted to the extrusion in each corner. With this approach in theory once you have setup the gap for the printing surface to the nozzle you should never need to level the bed.
Interesting about the 4 corners kinda like the ratrig in a way? I did think about that half ratrig/vzbot but for now I want to keep it the pricing low but spend on bling when need like carbon fiber rods and linear rails, hi flow hot end. Etc. also want everyone to be able to follow along so I am kinda keeping to the script. The treads may not be need but I am the guy who will wear suspenders with a belt. I if there is a slight movement when printer is moving I want 100% no wiggling. I am coming from a world where my bed was always moving on the Y axis. Keep watching let me know how I am doing and thanks for your input! If spot things let me know🤘
Yea personally I hate paying shipping that almost cost as much as the item I am buying. Also get the deburing tool for 10 bucks. It also works great on 3D prints!
With those drill taps I still prefer to pre drill a size or two smaller with a regular drill before running the drill-tap through and then use a chamfer tool. They are great for tapping but bind up easily if they have to drill their own hole and tap at the same time.
totally agreed with you... i went with the 3 in 1 because i did not have the drill bits tapping tool or something that chamfered... The set i bought was 10 bucks vs geting a good set of dril bits, tapping tool, chamfer tool other would have cost about 40ish or more just to make holes in the plate.. i was trying to save money since i have never needed them before almost 1 time use type of thing.. but if i did it again i would invest in 3 seperate items. using the right tool for the right job makes a big difference as you can see i also need to get a hammer..lol!
@@tommygunnfilms Thanks man. I've been super happy with the VZ build. It's been lots of fun. I do think those drill taps are the best ones I've tried as far as tapping performance and the drill tip helps pilot the tap into the hole nicely for free hand tapping. . Spiral taps are great.. It works much better than the straight taps I have. As for drills someday I'll buy a good CLE-LINE High Speed Steel (HSS) or cobalt set like Abom79 uses. For now I just use cheap HF drill sets and touch them up on my Drill Dr on a regular basis. All those coatings get ground off the first time you sharpen them anyway.
Hello there, thank you very much for the series! I am in the process of gathering the parts myself, and as I see you used a bed on top of the original Tronxy bed. How did that work out eventually heat-wise? Cheers from Greece!
@@dennisgu2506 I would try to get the used tronxy x5sa for 100.00 you can’t go wrong with that. I would not buy new one to build a vzbot. I would instead get parts from scratch but better parts.
@@dennisgu2506 then i would go for the 2020.. just make sure the 2020 are cut good... ask if they can do blind joins ( the holes on the sides) with the rest of the money get a reliable power like meanwell 24. you will end up with better parts. i am pretty much will be using a bigtree board razy hotend and i will used motors from the kit and power for now but i will prob upgrade power and bed. so 40 bucks is a good deal go for it! start building! dont forget the nuts and screws...corner brackets.. etc.
The key word there is little flex I want 0 flex.. also not sure how heat would affect carbon fiber with warping. The bed that comes with it has little flex.. but it is not flat and will flex.. the heavier plate has no flex and it is flat.. and heat will not affect it. It it was 55.00 dollars.
@@allencline6604 I learned afterwards a better way to drill holes.. take the old bed plate …tape it down over the new bedplate.. and drill thru the old plates holes all the way down to new bed plate done no measuring.
The hole guide did not work correctly I laid the tronxy bed over my aluminum sheet and ether mark the holes or drill right thru it. I would up the size of the hole so be able to use stronger screws the kind that comes with the silicon bed levelers. Don’t use springs. Are you building from scratch? Kit? Old tronxy?
Yea you saw my box screws must have been leaking out. But if screws are the only thing missing you are doing good.. go buy some bags of screws I got mine from zyltech.com prices are cheap for a 100 screws but 3 day shipping will cost ya like 12 bucks so load up with all the little parts… Here is what I recommend.. if you printed all your plastic parts start matching em up with screws and nuts.. so they are ready to go when you build. And you will also know what you are short on.. nothing worst than almost finishing a build and you are short 3 screws. If it calls for 5 screw get 8. Cus you gonna drop one and lose it. So how was the rest of the kit? Anything damaged?
@@tommygunnfilms That's the weird part it looks like the person put this together and put it back in the box pretty quickly. The only thing I had missing was screws. I plan on going to home Depot tomorrow to buy the screws hex m5 for the frame going by what you said I'll buy three packs Incase lol. I also had the same idea to build up my cheap return printer. I love your series. Diy is so awesome
@@garymendoza494 ah just like said in the video someone just open the box and said nope not for me and close it an returned it..you got a good deal bro! Unlike mine lol 😂 make sure Home Depot has them.. sometimes they might have metric screws but with a weird head.. that might not match anything..
Sorry copying my response from another comment Gert I agree with you 100 percent… i went with the 3 in 1 because i did not have the drill bits tapping tool or something that chamfered... The set i bought was 10 bucks vs geting a good set of dril bits, tapping tool, chamfer tool other would have cost about 40ish or more just to make holes in the plate. i was trying to save money since i have never needed them before almost 1 time use thing.. if i did it again i would invest in 3 separate items. using the right tool for the right job makes a big difference as you can see i also need to get a hammer..lol!
@@tommygunnfilms You will inevitable do it again - thrust me - been there. As for the hammer - as long as whatever you use doesn't break or malfunction afterwards you're good to go, I have on one occasion even used a wooden clog.
I did once lol too much stuff to keep track off if cameras are on, is it the right angle? Are my hands in the way..😆 but I was putting very little pressure on those drill bits because they break and the plate was very hard in the end I broke 3. sometimes the film speeds gives the illusion of of going backwards and forwards.. you see it sometimes with spinning fans.
I'm presuming this video is probably satire but the whole video is bad (bad) shop advice in general. If this is satire and I've missed the point then I apologise (but to be fair, this would be some dry comedy).
thank you for the comment.. This is my 3rd video in a series of building VZbot 3d printer.. i am gonna tell you right off the bat most people first videos out of the box are gonna be crap and so are mine till i figure out a style/formula that may or not work for me. it takes time shooting outdoors was about 2 hours another 3 hours trying to fiilm on my kitchen table not a shop 3-6 hours trying to cut down 2 hours of videos, another hour cuting out dead spots, 2 hours creating subtitles and transcribing then converting to other languages and a few hour here and there doing other things on the video. not making a penny off it. but i do because i want to get better at it. and i dont have a shop or alot of tools so i am in place where many other uses dont have a shop ether. and alot of videos are out there that magically always get built perfectly.. i wanted to show my real mistakes i make not spoofed. that was my first time using a 3 in 1 10.00 drill bit. i had perchased the plate 3 months pior to drill i had completly forgot it was not a metric size so i had to show and what i did to fix my mistake no cover up. The clip part i actually tought it might work till when the second clip sprang off. but i left in there because some one might think that idea might have worked so i warned people it was not a good idea. i have been working with 3d printers and building them From scratch since 2011 so I have a lot of experience but I have never built a vzbot and this will be my second coerexy printer this year. There is very little documentation or videos out there on building a vzbot. about 3-4 people including me and a github page. but as far as why use a thicker bed my advice i gave in the intro part is sound if there are any corrections about using a thick plate and or about leveling please let me know. the sources where i got my parts are really good and priced well and ship fast. I am not a engineer or a shop person or machinist i am typical hobby person sharing my experience building this printer. as i have said before if i make mistakes i hope other can learn from my errors and may learn something useful. in the end all errors were corrected the bed may have a extra hole or two but it will work as it should From some of the other comments and previous 2 videos I think I have helped some people and i try and answer everyones question. But i appreciate and respect your comment i do like when i get correct like the comment about grub screw and the other comment about using a regular drill bit it helps me and others i gave em hearts! .... but i get it I am not everyones cup of tea.
You don’t need to add threads to the bed to be honest a nut underneath is sufficient. A pillar drill is a must to get a perfect hole as you mentioned. One thing I found when I was planning this conversion over 3 year’s ago you still have issues with bed shift on the vertical because of the linear rods. Now the solution I have come up with is a quad leadscrew system with a single z motor driving everything via two 1:1 gearboxes. I also replaced the linear rods with 4 linear rails mounted to the extrusion in each corner. With this approach in theory once you have setup the gap for the printing surface to the nozzle you should never need to level the bed.
Interesting about the 4 corners kinda like the ratrig in a way? I did think about that half ratrig/vzbot but for now I want to keep it the pricing low but spend on bling when need like carbon fiber rods and linear rails, hi flow hot end. Etc. also want everyone to be able to follow along so I am kinda keeping to the script.
The treads may not be need but I am the guy who will wear suspenders with a belt. I if there is a slight movement when printer is moving I want 100% no wiggling. I am coming from a world where my bed was always moving on the Y axis. Keep watching let me know how I am doing and thanks for your input!
If spot things let me know🤘
Appreciate that you are making sure the captions work properly!
Thanks I kinda proof read them then correct them the auto capture does not really work that well.
With the shipping rates I would get the tooling plate too. Drilling the holes should be okay for me. Thanks for letting me know a good source.
Yea personally I hate paying shipping that almost cost as much as the item I am buying. Also get the deburing tool for 10 bucks. It also works great on 3D prints!
With those drill taps I still prefer to pre drill a size or two smaller with a regular drill before running the drill-tap through and then use a chamfer tool. They are great for tapping but bind up easily if they have to drill their own hole and tap at the same time.
totally agreed with you... i went with the 3 in 1 because i did not have the drill bits tapping tool or something that chamfered... The set i bought was 10 bucks vs geting a good set of dril bits, tapping tool, chamfer tool other would have cost about 40ish or more just to make holes in the plate.. i was trying to save money since i have never needed them before almost 1 time use type of thing.. but if i did it again i would invest in 3 seperate items. using the right tool for the right job makes a big difference as you can see i also need to get a hammer..lol!
let me ask you what do you think is the best material for drill bit for metal? and what price should be expected? Btw your vzbot is looking awesome!
@@tommygunnfilms Thanks man. I've been super happy with the VZ build. It's been lots of fun. I do think those drill taps are the best ones I've tried as far as tapping performance and the drill tip helps pilot the tap into the hole nicely for free hand tapping. . Spiral taps are great.. It works much better than the straight taps I have. As for drills someday I'll buy a good CLE-LINE High Speed Steel (HSS) or cobalt set like Abom79 uses. For now I just use cheap HF drill sets and touch them up on my Drill Dr on a regular basis. All those coatings get ground off the first time you sharpen them anyway.
Hello there, thank you very much for the series! I am in the process of gathering the parts myself, and as I see you used a bed on top of the original Tronxy bed. How did that work out eventually heat-wise? Cheers from Greece!
Great job, disregard the error ;D, nice idea on smoothing the edges, and the tiny screws are called "Grub" screws :D
Hey thanks for the correction! its all a learning process like i messed up audio on the end of video lol!
I love this
Thanks Gary!
Good Advices, good Video! I like it. But i need more
I will try and get the next one up within 5 days… have you started building already? Are stuck on something?
@@tommygunnfilms i m in the planing phase! I need to choose to buy a tronxy or built it on my own
@@dennisgu2506 I would try to get the used tronxy x5sa for 100.00 you can’t go wrong with that. I would not buy new one to build a vzbot. I would instead get parts from scratch but better parts.
@@tommygunnfilms here it is not so easy to get tronxy for 100 bucks, but if i buy just the 2020 i pay 40-45 bucks
@@dennisgu2506 then i would go for the 2020.. just make sure the 2020 are cut good... ask if they can do blind joins ( the holes on the sides) with the rest of the money get a reliable power like meanwell 24. you will end up with better parts. i am pretty much will be using a bigtree board razy hotend and i will used motors from the kit and power for now but i will prob upgrade power and bed. so 40 bucks is a good deal go for it! start building! dont forget the nuts and screws...corner brackets.. etc.
Have you considered some of the newer carbon fiber beds a lot lighter with little flex
And should be easyer to drill
The key word there is little flex I want 0 flex.. also not sure how heat would affect carbon fiber with warping. The bed that comes with it has little flex.. but it is not flat and will flex.. the heavier plate has no flex and it is flat.. and heat will not affect it. It it was 55.00 dollars.
@@allencline6604 I learned afterwards a better way to drill holes.. take the old bed plate …tape it down over the new bedplate.. and drill thru the old plates holes all the way down to new bed plate done no measuring.
Hey tommy I appreciate the vids, I did not see a link for the hole guide
The hole guide did not work correctly I laid the tronxy bed over my aluminum sheet and ether mark the holes or drill right thru it. I would up the size of the hole so be able to use stronger screws the kind that comes with the silicon bed levelers. Don’t use springs. Are you building from scratch? Kit? Old tronxy?
Been missing your videos can we have some more.
You inspired me hang tight thanks! 🤘😎
I just received my Amazon return x5sa didn't come with some screws lol
Yea you saw my box screws must have been leaking out. But if screws are the only thing missing you are doing good.. go buy some bags of screws I got mine from zyltech.com prices are cheap for a 100 screws but 3 day shipping will cost ya like 12 bucks so load up with all the little parts…
Here is what I recommend.. if you printed all your plastic parts start matching em up with screws and nuts.. so they are ready to go when you build.
And you will also know what you are short on.. nothing worst than almost finishing a build and you are short 3 screws.
If it calls for 5 screw get 8. Cus you gonna drop one and lose it. So how was the rest of the kit? Anything damaged?
@@tommygunnfilms That's the weird part it looks like the person put this together and put it back in the box pretty quickly. The only thing I had missing was screws.
I plan on going to home Depot tomorrow to buy the screws hex m5 for the frame going by what you said I'll buy three packs Incase lol. I also had the same idea to build up my cheap return printer. I love your series. Diy is so awesome
@@tommygunnfilms all the stepper motors had the protective film on the adjacent part for it not removed lol
I was considering pro but it was $160
@@garymendoza494 ah just like said in the video someone just open the box and said nope not for me and close it an returned it..you got a good deal bro! Unlike mine lol 😂 make sure Home Depot has them.. sometimes they might have metric screws but with a weird head.. that might not match anything..
Dump the combo bits and go for regular drill bits and chamfer bits and a tap by hand. It'll be better tool mileage
Sorry copying my response from another comment
Gert I agree with you 100 percent…
i went with the 3 in 1 because i did not have the drill bits tapping tool or something that chamfered... The set i bought was 10 bucks vs geting a good set of dril bits, tapping tool, chamfer tool other would have cost about 40ish or more just to make holes in the plate.
i was trying to save money since i have never needed them before almost 1 time use thing..
if i did it again i would invest in 3 separate items. using the right tool for the right job makes a big difference as you can see i also need to get a hammer..lol!
@@tommygunnfilms You will inevitable do it again - thrust me - been there. As for the hammer - as long as whatever you use doesn't break or malfunction afterwards you're good to go, I have on one occasion even used a wooden clog.
@@gerthalberg9735 lol you are probably right!
I mean... anything is a hammer really, some are better than others though.
You were drilling backwards lol
I did once lol too much stuff to keep track off if cameras are on, is it the right angle? Are my hands in the way..😆 but I was putting very little pressure on those drill bits because they break and the plate was very hard in the end I broke 3.
sometimes the film speeds gives the illusion of of going backwards and forwards.. you see it sometimes with spinning fans.
I'm presuming this video is probably satire but the whole video is bad (bad) shop advice in general. If this is satire and I've missed the point then I apologise (but to be fair, this would be some dry comedy).
thank you for the comment.. This is my 3rd video in a series of building VZbot 3d printer.. i am gonna tell you right off the bat most people first videos out of the box are gonna be crap and so are mine till i figure out a style/formula that may or not work for me. it takes time shooting outdoors was about 2 hours another 3 hours trying to fiilm on my kitchen table not a shop 3-6 hours trying to cut down 2 hours of videos, another hour cuting out dead spots, 2 hours creating subtitles and transcribing then converting to other languages and a few hour here and there doing other things on the video. not making a penny off it.
but i do because i want to get better at it. and i dont have a shop or alot of tools so i am in place where many other uses dont have a shop ether. and alot of videos are out there that magically always get built perfectly.. i wanted to show my real mistakes i make not spoofed. that was my first time using a 3 in 1 10.00 drill bit. i had perchased the plate 3 months pior to drill i had completly forgot it was not a metric size so i had to show and what i did to fix my mistake no cover up.
The clip part i actually tought it might work till when the second clip sprang off. but i left in there because some one might think that idea might have worked so i warned people it was not a good idea.
i have been working with 3d printers and building them From scratch since 2011 so I have a lot of experience but I have never built a vzbot and this will be my second coerexy printer this year. There is very little documentation or videos out there on building a vzbot. about 3-4 people including me and a github page.
but as far as why use a thicker bed my advice i gave in the intro part is sound if there are any corrections about using a thick plate and or about leveling please let me know. the sources where i got my parts are really good and priced well and ship fast.
I am not a engineer or a shop person or machinist i am typical hobby person sharing my experience building this printer.
as i have said before if i make mistakes i hope other can learn from my errors and may learn something useful. in the end all errors were corrected the bed may have a extra hole or two but it will work as it should From some of the other comments and previous 2 videos I think I have helped some people and i try and answer everyones question.
But i appreciate and respect your comment i do like when i get correct like the comment about grub screw and the other comment about using a regular drill bit it helps me and others i gave em hearts! .... but i get it I am not everyones cup of tea.