How to Airbrush a Skull with Texture: Full Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- In this video I take you through the steps I use to create some wicked texture effects when painting a skull, but these techniques can be used for any airbrush painting! I start by adding stipple, progressing into how to use different chemicals to manipulate the paint and then cover erasing and airbrushing techniques.
This is the second of a two part video covering a mural I painted on the hood of my own Jeep Wrangler. Thanks for watching and if there's something you'd like to learn or see me paint, please leave a comment below and I'll do my best to get it done!
Pentagram by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Artist: audionautix.com/
Bustin Loose by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Artist: audionautix.com/
Rocker by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Artist: audionautix.com/
Fluidscape by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/ 
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This is just what I lacked in my work, texture. A big thank you !!
Oh ,it could have been an hour and a half long and I would have enjoyed every minute.
Thank you!
Absolutely awesome I learn so much by watching your videos I'm 62 always been interested in airbrushart but like you say there was no way of accessing learning like this years ago and found it very daunting so much so i have started airbrushing after 30 years a big thank you 👌🏻
That's awesome and I appreciate the kind words very much!
Photorealistic artwork is amazing. Great tips & tricks too...thanks for sharing...
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
fantastic Trevor.
Thank you! By the way, I do still have a copy of the reference image I used for the skull on this hood. Shoot me an email at wickedartstudio@gmail.com and I'll send it to you.
Thanks for explaining everything in detail in the time you had ! It means a lot sir
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment! That means a lot to me!
Great detail shots of the eye area work, thanks
Thank you!
great well explained technics, thx
Glad it was helpful!
Mad talent
Thank you!
Can you tell me what type of airpbrish and tip you are using ? If you were to get 2 airbrush for different things like all around and detail which ones be the winner regardless of the price point?
@@johnmeric492 Hi John! Great questions. The airbrush I was using in this video is the Iwata Micron CM-C+. You can find one here amzn.to/3L6MLJY
If I had to choose only two airbrushes to work with regardless of price point, one as an all-around workhorse and one specifically for detail work, that's an easy choice for me based on thirty years of experience. My choice for the workhorse would be the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS which you can find here amzn.to/3RYwMjy
The Eclipse is a mid-range airbrush suitable for everything from detail work, in the hands of a capable artist, as well as covering larger areas quickly. I've been using the Eclipse daily my entire career now. It is my go-to airbrush. I literally use an Eclipse for about 90 to 95 percent of what I do.
My choice for the detail brush would be an Iwata Micron CM-B which you can find here amzn.to/3ddYV7j
The Micron line of Iwata airbrushes are the standard for quality, reliability and precision in my opinion. The CM-B has a smaller needle and nozzle compared to the CM-C+, which makes it really good for creating the smallest details precisely. It's a brush that I don't use very often, but it is my first choice when I need very precise, fine detail.
Great video and awesome technique. Thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching! I appreciate the kind words!
Great information THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Just found your vid thank you for being so generous with your time and skill. I will benefit from your labor
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Nice work Trever that hood is going to look well cool when it's back on the vehicle.love the detailing you have achieved and I could have watched another 30 mins of you at work.. Keep em coming..
Very much appreciated! Thank you!
Great video! I want to learn how to clear / top coat and when to clear / top coat and why its Important and when its Important. Thanks a lot 👍
Thanks! You'll have to be a little more specific. There's a huge difference between a clear top coat in the automotive world and a clear top coat for general art.
Wicked Art Airbrush Studio for me i want to know about general art. Automotive is a bit far away. Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to make this tutorial. I had studied one of your previous skull videos and was watching your techniques and learned a lot. Another great video 👍👍👍👍
I've learned a lot over the years from just studying photographs of other artist's work and trying to reverse engineer how they pulled off different effects. It's much easier to pick up tricks and techniques watching videos of other artist's work. It's amazing how much you can pick up on even without any commentary and you never stop learning with this stuff. As always, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment my friend!
Impressive.
Thank you!
Thank you for a bit more course in detail painting, well explained, and fun that you want to share your experience. Chris🇸🇪
Thank you for the kind words!
I did my jeep hood also. It was my first ever airbrush I used an overhead projector. No where near that good tho nice work!
That's awesome Chris! I'd love to see what you did. You can send me a pic or two at wickedartstudio@gmail.com if you would like. I also appreciate the kind words! You have to keep things in perspective though. I've been an airbrush artist for thirty years now. So, I've had a lot of practice and made a lot of mistakes along the way.
everything has been said and I agree with everyone, thanks
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment John!
Good tutorial as usual. Love what you do and it is great for the beginner and intermediate. The more basic or step by step is great as most of your viewers are probably beginners like myself who struggle with things that would be simple for artists. My only advice to a newbie would be to use solvent base instead of water base. With waterbased paint i spent so much time trying to get reduction right and fighting tip dry it prevented me from painting in a relaxed mood. I just found solvent based so much easier to control. Once i can master that i will go to waterbased..
Hope this helps somebody.
Guy
Thanks for the kind words again Guy! My ultimate goal is to offer content for beginners, intermediates and professionals alike. I agree solvent based systems spray much better/easier than water-based, but there are larger health risks with solvent based systems too. I've seen regulations tightening on urethanes over the last decade or two. It's only a matter of time before the entire industry is forced to use water-based products. I decided to make the switch to water-based paint for a number of reasons. Initially, I fought the same issues with reduction ratios, air pressure and tip dry. It was a steep learning curve after spraying urethanes for nearly 20 years. It was very frustrating at times and I seriously considered giving up on the water-based system more than once. Part of the problem (from my viewpoint) is so many people expect, or strive to make a water-based paint spray like a urethane. I've had that conversation personally with other artists many times. I see it in forums and on RUclips videos. The reality is, I don't think water-based paint will ever spray like a solvent based paint. They are two completely different systems. Water-based technology has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I've ben using it, but it's still not anything close to a urethane. So, in my experience, I'm not sure if mastering urethanes before going to water-based is good advice. Just something to think about...
Hi There.
I didn't word that very well. I should of said when I am more competent with urethanes.
I am by no way an artist, i'm just trying to replicate what i see. At present i find urethanes easier to control but the plan is to change. I need to learn more control, colour theory, light source etc. Plus the range of colours in waterbased is amazing.
One of the great things about using an airbrush is one doesn't need to be an artist in order to use the tool and still achieve killer results!
Great tutorial! Bravo! Subscribed with the Bell!!
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words!
Awesome job very nice love the skull it looks like you could break it in some areas wish I could do one that well but only at it 6 months so relitievlru new but I’m learning every day I practice I’m a tattoo artist all my life 36 years so I know how to shade well and I’m pretty good at it with a brush
I appreciate the kind words! I've never even held a tattoo machine, but I would guess the initial learning curve is similar to an airbrush. As a tattoo artist, I have no doubt you have the ability to "do one that well". It just takes practice! Thanks for the comment!
Nice video! Watching from Tulsa...
Small world! Thanks for watching!
I have a great attention span!!!! Keeeeeeppppp goooiiiinnggggg!!
Thank you!
great video:
Thank you!
Amazing work Trevor I would have watched 2hours simple but very very effective loved it how would you say the water base compares to urethane because was thinking of switching myself cheers for the awesome content keep up the awesome work
Thanks for the kind words Jayden! Water-based and urethane are two completely different animals. Each system has its own pros and cons. Both are great, durable products for just about anything.
What I struggled with the most when I started playing with water-based technology was working in light layers. I used urethane for a lot of years before I switched to water-based. You can really hammer urethane on quickly with little worry. The same can't be said with water-based. Water-based requires a little more patience building your layers. The technology has improved a lot since I made the switch (around 2002 or 2003) and it continues to improve. I can actually use heavier coats now than I could back in the early 2000's due to those improvements, but it's still very different from urethane.
I've said for years that companies producing water-based paint are striving to make their products perform like urethane. I still think that statement is true in most cases. Whether or not they will ever reach that point, I kind of doubt it. Like many others I've talked to, I was ignorant when I made the switch and stupidly expected water-based to perform like urethane as well. That's what I'd known for years and I didn't want to change how I worked. That mindset and reluctance to change made for a much steeper learning curve in the end. If you avoid that mindset you'll likely have better results much faster than I did.
@@wickedartstudio thanks for the detailed reply Trevor and a history of your experience with the two paint systems I will probably make the change soon enough but like yourself am a little bit reluctant to change haha
What Air brush are you using there??? I have a Iwata HP-C plus but I see you have the valve under the front of your and the opening in front of the trigger. Is that the Iwata Micron???
You are correct. That is a Micron (the CM-C Plus to be exact).
Can u clear over the water based paint with auto clear
You sure can! I do it all the time!
muito bom very good .qual o papel e a tinta que vc usa.
Obrigado! Eu uso tinta Createx e esta foi pintada em um capô de plástico automotivo.
Rocking the old Helix is see. You can't even get them anymore and those awesome grey hard erasers are long gone from what I've see.
The Helix is still available (I can only find blue colored ones anymore though) and you're dead on as far as the old wedge erasers go... Those are getting really hard to find. I buy as many as I can when I do find them! Thanks for watching!
Wicked Art Studio Yeah the blue ones use a thicker eraser and it's the soft white. Keep up the good work.
superkillr I was not aware of that. Thanks for the info!
After you are done do you remove tape and clear? So it doesnt leave a line? Plz keep in mind iam very new to this and just learning. Thank you.
Yep. I was new to all of this once too and I'm happy to answer your questions.
Hey Trever , my name is Dj, I'm somewhat new to the airbrush. I was wondering what ratio should I use to get the best spray possible? I use createx water based acrylic. I'm using a putter comp no tank I have an iwata neo CN. Great video by the way 👍🤘
I appreciate the kind words DJ! I personally prefer to start at a 1:1 reduction ratio (equal amount of paint and reducer) the vast majority of the time. Sometimes I add more reducer to the mix, but I rarely use less than 1:1. My air pressure is normally somewhere in a range between 20 and 30 psi. This is a great question that unfortunately doesn't have a great answer. There are a lot of factors that affect your reduction ratio, as well as the air pressure you choose to use. You can ask 10 different airbrush artists this same question and you'll likely get a number of different answers. You have to experiment and find what works for you. I'll put together a video soon covering your question in more detail because it is absolutely the most popular question I get when it comes to airbrushing. Hopefully, the info I gave you above will get you in the ballpark for now.
Did you move that metal ring on the pre-set handle so it stays out?! I knew there was a screw, just did not get that I can use it!! :D :P ..well thanks for the tip! Keep these great videos coming!!
Yes. There is a very small set screw in the locking ring of the pre set handle that allows you to set a limit on how far you can pull the trigger back. I keep mine locked in the fully open position (meaning I can pull the trigger all the way back) because I prefer to have complete control of my brush. Some people prefer to lock it in place and limit their trigger pull (or the amount of paint that can be sprayed) when working on fine detail.
Where can you find the erasers for that model Helix eraser, I have the same one but have a hard time finding replacement erasers. Thanks.
Unfortuantely, Helix no longer makes that model. The newer Helix erasers use a 5mm eraser insert rather than the 3mm (if memory serves me correct) eraser head. I tend to buy erasers in bulk because when I find one I really like, the manufacturer almost always seems to discontinue it. Unfortunately, I've had no luck finding refills for the original Helix. I wound up buying one of the newer versions for that reason. You can get one for about ten dollars, so it's not a huge investment.
Can you tell me how you get the small pit or hole effect I see in the skull
I'd be happy to help you. Can you reply with a time stamp of the specific part of the video you're talking about so that I can give you a better answer?
Ive tried erasing on paper, but doesnt seem to come off like it does on your video, does erasing only work on certain materials?
To be clear, this was not painted on paper. The artwork in this video was painted on the hood of a vehicle. Having said that, you can use scratching and erasing techniques successfully on paper. The easiest approach is to use synthetic paper which can be expensive. I prefer to use more traditional papers. I also find doing a little bit of prep work to the paper makes it respond better to scratching and erasing techniques. I have a video showing how I prepare paper prior to applying my artwork. You can find it here ruclips.net/video/P8XF-Y2WFMU/видео.html
@@wickedartstudio Great thanks for the help!
watching from England, great vid and did you say it was paper you were working on ? if so what kind ?👏👏👍👌
Thank you! This was not painted on paper. It was painted on the hood of a vehicle.
@@wickedartstudio With that being said, what is your preferred "canvas"? Is it paper, canvas, wood, whatever you can find, etc.? And do the erasers work on canvas?
Thanks for putting your time and effort into these videos, and reaponses to the questions we all have. It's a testament to your character. Cheers!
How long did the skull take you in real time
If I remember correctly I had about 4 hours invested in the skull.
Wicked Art Airbrush Studio thank you 😊
Great music, what's the name of the band? I experience that very often, the paper breaks apart when scratched, erased. Although I'm careful and with really good quality paper for Airbrush and the right tool. Why? Or, should I start painting more on plastic, sheet ect? Uses E'TAC colors. Thank you Trevor.
Hey man! Some of the music is listed in the description (it all came from the RUclips Creator Studio). As far as your questions regarding scratching and erasing on your work, it's difficult to guess the issue without actually seeing what you're doing. My best advice without seeing exactly what you're doing is work in light layers. Put down a very light layer of color and then come in with the eraser before adding another light layer of color. Then you can erase again if needed. Use a light touch with your eraser and/or blade as well. Too much pressure or aggressive use of erasers and blades will degrade the paper rapidly. Continue working your project back and forth like that until you're satisfied with the results. You might have better results using one of the synthetic brands of paper out there. Those papers are stronger, but they will degrade the same as any other surface if your techniques are too aggressive. Hope that helps!
Thank you for your long and educating answer . I am already doing a lot like that but I surely have to practice a light hand. 🙏🏻Rock on🤘🏻
Glad to help! A lighter touch will come with practice. You might try painting on a hard surface too. A hard surface might just suit your style a little better.
What paint do you use
Createx Auto Air Colors, Createx Wicked and Createx Illustration
At 13:50 what is this tool?
That is a Helix electric eraser. You can find one here amzn.to/3u2miGM
I forgot to ask what reducer with the wicked 4112 or 4130 or does it matter I only have 4112
I use 4012 and/or 4011 to reduce Wicked Colors. 4030 is basically an intercoat clear, meaning it's just a clear binder with no pigment, it doesn't actually reduce the paint. I generally only use the 4030 with the Candy 2.0 line, but it still gets reduced with 4012.
Thank you I saw a guy using auto air and he reduced it with something other than 11 or 12 and he reduced it to almost all reducer and it worked well I use wicked I guess I’m trying to get the most value out of my paint as it’s expensive in Canada
All of the Createx line can be substantially over reduced without compromising the binder in the paint. It's a good idea to lower your air pressure when spraying though.
would of been nice to have a reference for this,lol...pretty plz.
I apologize. I painted this a few years ago and I'm not sure if I still have a copy of the reference image used.
I cant find the gray eraser heads to save my life!!!!
Do you have the older black Helix or the newer blue Helix eraser?
@@wickedartstudio Hi there. We are having the same difficulty as Nick in finding the gray eraser heads. We have the older black model.
I began a vigorous search for the gray eraser heads as well when Nick originally left the comment above. Unfortunately, it appears the gray eraser heads are no longer available like so many other fantastic erasers I've used in the past. Because I've seen so many other eraser tools that I've really liked be discontinued over the years, I purchased a large amount of gray and white eraser heads for my Helix. I still have enough to last me quite some time. I was aware the new Helix erasers were blue instead of black, but I didn't realize they had changed the size of the eraser head until questions and comments started popping up about it on my channel. Due to that, I've done more research and ordered one of the newer blue Helix erasers. I have also found an alternative gray eraser head that fits the new larger Helix. I'm still in a testing stage with these new erasers, but I plan to do a comparison type video with the old Helix, the newer Helix and a couple of other electric erasers in the near future. I will also reveal the new gray erasers I found that work in the newer erasers.
sorry misheard ,I bet the vehicle look's a bit special though 💀👍
No need to apologize. I think it looks good, but I painted it on my own vehicle (I could be slightly biased, lol). Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!