This was my first timing belt repair.. I followed the video almost to a T. My vehicle is a 98 crv. When I completed the install and test drove, it idled very low. One thing I found out was that the IAC valve had to relearn. The removal of the neg cable caused the KAM to erase. Great video overall!
@@samuelortega6030 sorry for the late reply. The month after I repaired my 98 crv, someone stole my catalytic converter. So I sold it. I dont recall whether or not it had a vibration but no thud.
@gwcaque1 it’s ok, sorry to hear that. I fixed mine but I sold it right after. Ran good no more thud. Was off a tooth on the exhaust side. But after that it ran with no issues
Took the ole CRV down to the belt and replaced the inner back cover behind the cam sprockets, since the original one got eaten up by the cams - the upper aspect with the timing marks on three places. I figured I could get by without those marks, since I had the cams immobilized with two screwdrivers that fit. BIG MISTAKE!!! Number 1, to use those holes on the cams, the object must be EXACTLY 3/16" in diameter - no smaller. Number 2, if that plastic back plate got chewed, spend the $31 and replace it to check your work afterwards. It will be worth every penny to not have to disassemble everything in order to retime it. Apparently, I was off by one tooth on the exhaust side, causing early opening of the exhaust valves after firing the gas mix. This would explain the tendency to run hot as well as no power, even though it idled well and wasn't missing or stumbling. Having the cams immobilised properly really helped out, and the belt was slightly stretched which allowed it to slip over the sprockets much more easily than the first time. Now it runs like a top! Thanks again for your encouragement and for posting this video.
Hello, very nice details, got me confused when after rotation of crankshaft, the blue line was to the left, I believe 3 teeth, then you came back after and the blue line was on tdc. Which is fine, but I think you where wrong on moving crankshaft to the right, it should of been to the left counter clock, then tighten the bolt to to tensioner, that's what I did and it was perfect, much appreciate you sharing your knowledge
Hi, thank you for the video! When adjusting the deflection of the belt, you loose the tensioning bolt and make two revolutions of the crankshaft, and then tighten it, right?
Hey after watching your videos and analyzing how to set the engine to TDC I changed my leaking water pump, tensioner and belt. After I replaced the and made sure I had the engine at TDC I removed the slack counter clock wise and tightened the tensioner bolt at 40 foot pounds. Once I started the car it started up fine but just has a rough idle. I did the idle relearn but as I’m at a stop light or idling in park I can feel a very slight thud not a pop. I have no CEL light but over all the car runs good with even a bit more power I just have that rough idle at times. When I turn the steering wheel the engine idle drops but picks up before stalling. Any ideas what could be going on?
HOMs LYFe is absolutely right. The water pump and tensioner are two of the most critical engine parts, besides the belt itself. The tensioner is a small pulley with a high quality bearing; small pulleys spin much faster than larger pulleys, and they tend to wear out faster. If it fails, the pieces will do damage and the engine will suddenly lose timing, and possibly bend valves or worse. The water pump has a bearing and seal, and they do not last forever.This component, as well as the tensioner should be changed out and replaced preemptively, rather than trying to squeeze every ounce of life from them. My experiences have shown that they will fail in the most inconvenient of places and at the worst possible time, and a water pump with a failed bearing can seize up and break the timing belt. Then you will have a multitude of issues. Spend the $$ and get a GOOD water pump (GMB, Aisin, OEM Honda) and the OEM tensioner (GMB, Koyo) and a quality belt (Honda, Mitsuboshi, Gates) and do it right. There are links above for the quality parts; You need a new valve cover gasket and the front seals because the seals degrade and wear out and they're cheap. If u do everything done in this video, the repairs should last over 100,000 miles. And don't be tempted to buy a $50 timing belt kit off EBay, etc. because of questionable quality. Some of us know because of us being swindled with fake parts or junk that can actually mess your car up or even destroy the engine. Good luck with your project!
@@plumkey197 www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1999/honda/crv/engine_mechanical/timing_belt.html?rp=timing_belt_kit_and_water_pump I have a 1999 Honda CRV and someone told me parts geek.com....so I ordered the timing belt kit/water pump that says like $50 by replacement parts. If that is not a good part; please let me know before I got through the trouble to replace it all and find out it just breaks again. My local autoparts store was out of stock so that is how I turned online, but seen this video an the link to pro parts after the fact. I will send the $50 on back ASAP and wait for a good kit.
@@plumkey197 This engine is what is known as an INTEFERENCE engine. This means that there is no space, no gap, between the valves & the top of the pistons. So if the timing belt breaks, at least 1 or several valves will be bent by hitting the top of the piston. The worse case scenario, is that the valves that hit the top of the piston, can possibly crack or make a hole on the top of the piston. Now, your whole engine has to be replaced since people rarely sell individual used pistons. Or all 4 new pistons & valves have to be purchased new. A Non-INTERFERENCE engine, does have a space, a gap, between the valves bottoming down at it's lowest & the top of the piston. So if the timing belt tears, no valve will be bent, and the bottom of the valve will never hit or even touch the top of the piston. So you can actually spin the crankshaft all you want with a torn timing belt & the top of the piston will never hit any valves. But still, I wouldn't recommend doing this. As bad as a torn timing belt can be on an non-Interference engine, one can automatically feel that you won't have to replace the whole engine. A torn timing belt on an INTERFERENCE engine like on these first generation CR-V, just know that it's time to junk the car. Here in Southern California, engine blocks from the Pick Your Parts junkyards are expensive now, plus all the parts, gaskets, & seals that you have to pay for, you can expect to spend around $2 grand easily, and that's with you doing the work yourself. You don't have to buy OEM parts, but you also don't want to go cheap, like DNJ parts.
There’s 4 total keys right? Two for the cam gears and then one for the crank gear and another for the crank pulley right? Just tryna make sure because I have an extra one but I don’t remember if it’s the extra one I just got from a pick a part or if it’s another one I forgot to but in
Thank you so much for your video (and your sense of humor) i'm noob. I don't understand the crank pulley\shaft completely. from what I understand its the same process/nut for rotating my crank shaft (chek timing) and taking it off? there has to be something I have not understand. while rotating you, dont want the nails sticking in cam gear, but when unscrewing crankshaft/pulley its ok to keep em' in position? theres no way my nails are holding 130 pds torch there. I dont get it Help! (and yes ive watch, listen, studied many time to your video!)
Thank you for watching Alex Guert. To remove the crank bolt you will need a crank bolt removal tool, a breaker bar, 1/2 ratchet with a cheater bar. I think it’s 19:40 in the video.
Basically, you have to loosen the crank bolt first then tighten it by hand again to rotate the pulley. Then if you want to remove it again, you can insert the drill bits in the hole to hold it in place.
Hey man so I just bought a crv with 265k miles and this video is going to be a great help I just got confused about the after the reinstall. You want the the blue marks on the gear and the blue mark on the cover to match right? I was confused about the part where you go past 3 tooth to tighten the tensioner
H0Me LYFe thank you! So after the belt is on and aligned tdc turn it three teeth to create tension, then tighten, then rotate to be sure, then torque? I think I got it
Erick Iniguez.. unfortunately.. you won’t be able to see the timing belt without removing the plastic cover. But You can check the other belts like alternator, power steering, and ac belts if it was included with the service.
Pull the valve cover to expose the cam sprockets. You'll have to rotate the engine counter-clockwise (19 mm to the crank bolt) to examine the entire length, but it will be hard to determine the age of the belt unless brand-new or if it's way past the changing interval and cracked in a bunch of places. It's amazing how long these belts last considering the abuse they take.
Am I going to have a problem with the belt I did not do it your way that you showed on video I got it at top dead center pushed up on tensioner and torque the bolt but everything lines up car runs fine
@@h0melyfe792 yes I didn't go by what the manual says you got to go by three teeth then tighten a tensioner just don't want this thing to be loose and jump time
@@h0melyfe792 yes it looks good just watching the deflection on top of the cams as I turn the motor over it tightens and loosens tightens and loosens is that normal
Excellent video. I've spent 2 weekends now trying to get my '98 CR-V timing belt done. I follow every step, double and triple-check my work along the way and every single time I reinstall the crank pulley, the mark on the pulley always ends up +/- 1-1/2" past the timing cover mark while everything else aligns. What am I doing wrong?! Thanks again for a terrific video!
@@h0melyfe792 it ended up being a bad crank pulley; it was in the early stages of separating. Got it done and running great. Thanks again for the video
Accessory belts or V-belts. Or call them by the component they power, like the power steering belt or the alternator belt. A serpentine belt usually turns everything.
That slack should not be there between the exhaust camshaft and crankshaft, and also it should be no slack between the both camshaft, that slack there mean the timing belt jumped and the timing is incorrect now, and the engine will not work or work horribly and then stop working overtime.
@@h0melyfe792 never h that auto parts sale good parts I check to how much got it sonthing work cookies year hear chage to much money to put it that ritgh want s w for like 3 year mired loll ok thank bro s much
Hi, thanks for watching! With the right tools and parts in hand, I say between 2-4hrs if that’s all your doing. Unforeseen events can happen though, so have to put that into consideration.
Doing the timing belt / water pump with the seals has turned out to be the biggest pain in the a**, for one glaring reason: The dude who did this procedure before went crazy with the loctite, and used the stuff on everything that didn't require it, which is everything and the entire bottom alternator bolt and one of the three motor mount bracket bolts was missing. The torque mount nut wouldn't budge, and Mr. Piper actually broke the bolt where it goes into the bracket on the engine. I used my grinder and cut the nut off, since the torque mount was toast. I also had to mangle the lower plastic cover because of loctite on the lower left bolt; I used my Dremel to cut around the bolt after failing with 2 different bolt extractors. The tensioner bolt was already rounded off by the prior "mechanic", so I got my grinder and a hammer/chisel and took quite awhile because of loctite and was also TIGHT. I used a mini grinding wheel and cut two deep slits on opposite sides and chiseled the washer out from under the head. The alternator and tensioner bolts I got from Honda dealership. I made a gasket for the lower timing cover and its gonna have to do without the lower left bolt. The third plastic cover was mangled because the other guy overtightened the two bolts, just like you said not to do LOL. The design of most Honda fasteners sucks, because they are already somewhat rounded off because of their design, and they're not very tall, so not much head to put a wrench to. Using 6 point wrenches/sockets are still no guarantee that they wont round off if the tool is not perfectly over the head and pressure applied to keep it from rounding. And doing all this in a confined area where you can't see further aggravates the situation if doing by "feel". My advice? Use PB Blaster or tranny fluid/acetone and pre-treat all fasteners, since these are old vehicles and will have stuck bolts. Use only 6 point properly sized wrenches/sockets and make sure there is no play - not all tools are high quality and some have enough slack that a rounded bolt will likely occur. No crescent or open ended wrenches!! You will end up rounding the bolt - guaranteed. And no loctite! Loctite is not a substitute for using a torque wrench. Thank you for posting this, even though you made it look a little too easy LOL. And that rattling was not the tensioner. The water pump had considerable play and I'm surprised it didn't seize.
Keith Nettles... omg bro.. I totally get you bro.. when previous mechanics rush and don’t do it right, we’re left with the struggles (missing bolts, and over tightened ones). Did you get everything done? Let me know bro.
@@h0melyfe792 I watched several videos on the 97-01 CRV, but found myself going to your video for specific information. You put a lot of specific details in your video, and there were close-up shots that you took the time to include. The info about the bolt sizes and missing pieces primed me to expect the same thing, which certainly was the case as I took everything apart. Still can't figure out the missing bottom alternator bolt and how the thing even worked. Both front motor mounts were busted, and there's a rear main leak that JD will need to address at some point. I'm having to work on this weekends and whenever, and he uses one of my vehicles while his is being worked on. Buying extra parts has taken him some time, too.The cam sprockets were the only components besides the accessories that didn't have loctite on the bolts. The timing belt was in pretty good shape and wasn't cracked. I ALWAYS put my own marks on the old belt and transfer the marks to the new belt, just like you showed. Makes getting the timing correct the first time absolutely foolproof, since it's hard to use the native marks while this engine is in the car. I'll have it back together by Sunday hopefully. I've done the valves (the exhaust valves were TIGHT!)., the fuel filter, and the thermostat,along with everything else, and used Japanese or Honda components.I have all seals and the water pump installed and just a matter of going back together with it. As I write this, I hear that friggin hurricane outside tearing up my shit. Appreciate you checking up on my progress, and I appreciate the level of detail that you incorporate into your videos. You really have a way with teaching, including when you say "OK?" and "boom!". Always get a kick out of that. I'll have to post a vid and send u the link when its together-- or maybe before to show u some of my handy grinder/Dremel work!
Keith Nettles.. hehe.. making this video was a pain in the butt and took lots of effort.. I would love to see that video on how you took those bolts off! Would help in the future in case it happens to one of us. Love how your sharing your experiences, it’s a plus to the crv community. Thanks bro!
@@h0melyfe792 One method I've used for years is having several magnetic parts "bowls" to put all hardware in and I have six of these. I separate the procedure out to "mini procedures" and all hardware goes into it's own bowl, including nuts, bolts, brackets. The actual pieces go on a 3 shelf unit in order of removal to make assembly easier. The car wizard illustrates this well when he did a video on why removal of an evaporator/heater core was so expensive. But there isn't anything that can get you ready for working on an engine whose bolts are bound with loctite and corrosion. The ultimate nightmare I was facing was breaking that tensioner bolt off and having to drill and tap the hole, and the engine would need to come out for this. You only get one crack at this, and the results have to be perfect. Only a machine shop could help after the first fix.fails. Same for the crank bolt on this CRV, because it didn't want to impact out (tried 3 different impacts), and the head had been abused by the prior mechanic and looked like vise grips were used at some point - it was gonna be prone to rounding and the socket wasn't as tight as I would have liked. A little heavy duty tin foil lining the socket tightened the fit. After several failed attempts, I bathed it 3 times/day with homemade penetrating oil (1/2 dextron mercon and 1/2 acetone mixed in a metal oiler) and alternated this with heating moderately. It finally came out intact 3 days later. My next purchase on my wish list is a welder so I'll be able to tack a nut to a rounded fastener.
I think I might be off by one tooth on one of the cams. Even with drill bits in the alignment holes, the cams still tended to move because of the valve springs, and that's aggravating. No acceleration and wants to run slightly hot when put on the road, it's not throwing any codes. I never left the neighborhood because it's too dangerous and flooring the pedal bogs it down even more and won't rev > 2500 RPM's. Idles smoothly and starts right up. I ran it 40 minutes to burp the air out of the cooling system, but putting it on the road is not an option. I'm second-guessing myself on the timing, even though I was sure it was correct. It's kinda hard to see the cam marks with the motor in the car and with a partially destroyed back cover. I'm taking it apart tonight to check my marks again and bought another back cover to replace the destroyed one (It was previously overtightened by the previous owner - just like you warned us not to do!!). The back cover has the top edge I can use for getting it right. I'm about disgusted with this thing, but I've got it halfway apart already in only a few minutes because of no loctite used. Can't believe the previous owner used that crap on almost everything, and was not fun to come behind him to dismantle everything. I've learned that Honda bolts are low profile and will round off with very little effort when loctite has been used.
Bro see lots you guys do this you do better video can do my like Thad thank you bro where you got the parts want to buy my parts want good part timing belt water pump all the kit like Thad you got are good parts le me know thank you s much let me know where can buy Thad good parts can see it thank s much you help
Thanks! I have the link on the description. But that’s two years ago. Not sure if that kit still exist. If not, then go for oem parts. I usually order from Hondapartsnow.com, best of luck!
Freaking legend you saved me thousands bro appreciate you
I’ve watched several how to videos on this process. By far the best one I’ve watched. Good work and many thanks.
Thanks for watching. Glad it’s helpful.
Most thorough Timing Belt video on RUclips!
This was my first timing belt repair.. I followed the video almost to a T. My vehicle is a 98 crv. When I completed the install and test drove, it idled very low. One thing I found out was that the IAC valve had to relearn. The removal of the neg cable caused the KAM to erase. Great video overall!
Hey I am having the same issue. Did your engine idle low and had a slight vibration or thud due to the low idle?
I just completed my 97 crv and same thing idles low for 5 to 10 sec , then back to reg idle, when I rev it up back to rough idle😢
@@samuelortega6030 sorry for the late reply. The month after I repaired my 98 crv, someone stole my catalytic converter. So I sold it. I dont recall whether or not it had a vibration but no thud.
@gwcaque1 it’s ok, sorry to hear that. I fixed mine but I sold it right after. Ran good no more thud. Was off a tooth on the exhaust side. But after that it ran with no issues
@jims1922 if the motor is timed properly just do a idle relearn. I have to do that after I fixed my issue.
Just plain n simple, straightforward...no bullshit. Respect
Great job on the video. Nice detail with different sizes of bolts and nuts. I really appreciate it.
Thank you so much!
Took the ole CRV down to the belt and replaced the inner back cover behind the cam sprockets, since the original one got eaten up by the cams - the upper aspect with the timing marks on three places. I figured I could get by without those marks, since I had the cams immobilized with two screwdrivers that fit. BIG MISTAKE!!! Number 1, to use those holes on the cams, the object must be EXACTLY 3/16" in diameter - no smaller. Number 2, if that plastic back plate got chewed, spend the $31 and replace it to check your work afterwards. It will be worth every penny to not have to disassemble everything in order to retime it. Apparently, I was off by one tooth on the exhaust side, causing early opening of the exhaust valves after firing the gas mix. This would explain the tendency to run hot as well as no power, even though it idled well and wasn't missing or stumbling. Having the cams immobilised properly really helped out, and the belt was slightly stretched which allowed it to slip over the sprockets much more easily than the first time. Now it runs like a top! Thanks again for your encouragement and for posting this video.
Thanks for the feed back bro! The info helps a lot!!
as per the Honda service manual, you put the timing belt guide in backwards. The taper should face out, not in
Watch the video again, at 23:50 he took out the timing belt guide, he didn't put it backwards
You took the time to explain this job and its procedures.
Thanks man, really awesome 👍 Everything is as you've said.
Excellent video, thank you so much for sharing it with us. I hope you get an impact wrench for Christmas.
Thanks! Appreciate it! I think I smell a Dewalt High Torque Impact Wrench for Christmas! 😂
Good video. You did install the timing belt guide on the crankshaft backwards though.
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO AND KNOWLEDGE' YOU'VE SHARED' THAT WOULD BE A BIG HELP FOR ME TO WORK ON MY CRV'...THANKS' AGAIN AND MAY GOD BLESS YOU!
Thank you sir! Glad it helped you! 🤗🤗🤗
Hello, very nice details, got me confused when after rotation of crankshaft, the blue line was to the left, I believe 3 teeth, then you came back after and the blue line was on tdc. Which is fine, but I think you where wrong on moving crankshaft to the right, it should of been to the left counter clock, then tighten the bolt to to tensioner, that's what I did and it was perfect, much appreciate you sharing your knowledge
Nice work man.
Good job
Thank you very much
Thank u 👍 one of the best instructions for timing belt✌️😍
Thanks for watching!
Got the belt guide in backwards. Otherwise solid step by step
Found your video very helpful. Did mine but now it is accelerating. I’m left wondering what I missed or did wrong. Can you please help?
Hi, thank you for the video! When adjusting the deflection of the belt, you loose the tensioning bolt and make two revolutions of the crankshaft, and then tighten it, right?
Dimitar Despov.. your welcome, hope it helped you and yes that’s what I did.
Hey after watching your videos and analyzing how to set the engine to TDC I changed my leaking water pump, tensioner and belt. After I replaced the and made sure I had the engine at TDC I removed the slack counter clock wise and tightened the tensioner bolt at 40 foot pounds. Once I started the car it started up fine but just has a rough idle. I did the idle relearn but as I’m at a stop light or idling in park I can feel a very slight thud not a pop. I have no CEL light but over all the car runs good with even a bit more power I just have that rough idle at times. When I turn the steering wheel the engine idle drops but picks up before stalling. Any ideas what could be going on?
Can I just replace the timing belt without replacing the water pump or must I do both and all the gasket
Miguel Mendoza.. always do both.. belt and water pump.
HOMs LYFe is absolutely right. The water pump and tensioner are two of the most critical engine parts, besides the belt itself. The tensioner is a small pulley with a high quality bearing; small pulleys spin much faster than larger pulleys, and they tend to wear out faster. If it fails, the pieces will do damage and the engine will suddenly lose timing, and possibly bend valves or worse. The water pump has a bearing and seal, and they do not last forever.This component, as well as the tensioner should be changed out and replaced preemptively, rather than trying to squeeze every ounce of life from them. My experiences have shown that they will fail in the most inconvenient of places and at the worst possible time, and a water pump with a failed bearing can seize up and break the timing belt. Then you will have a multitude of issues. Spend the $$ and get a GOOD water pump (GMB, Aisin, OEM Honda) and the OEM tensioner (GMB, Koyo) and a quality belt (Honda, Mitsuboshi, Gates) and do it right. There are links above for the quality parts; You need a new valve cover gasket and the front seals because the seals degrade and wear out and they're cheap. If u do everything done in this video, the repairs should last over 100,000 miles. And don't be tempted to buy a $50 timing belt kit off EBay, etc. because of questionable quality. Some of us know because of us being swindled with fake parts or junk that can actually mess your car up or even destroy the engine. Good luck with your project!
@@plumkey197 www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1999/honda/crv/engine_mechanical/timing_belt.html?rp=timing_belt_kit_and_water_pump
I have a 1999 Honda CRV and someone told me parts geek.com....so I ordered the timing belt kit/water pump that says like $50 by replacement parts. If that is not a good part; please let me know before I got through the trouble to replace it all and find out it just breaks again. My local autoparts store was out of stock so that is how I turned online, but seen this video an the link to pro parts after the fact. I will send the $50 on back ASAP and wait for a good kit.
@@plumkey197 This engine is what is known as an INTEFERENCE engine. This means that there is no space, no gap, between the valves & the top of the pistons. So if the timing belt breaks, at least 1 or several valves will be bent by hitting the top of the piston. The worse case scenario, is that the valves that hit the top of the piston, can possibly crack or make a hole on the top of the piston. Now, your whole engine has to be replaced since people rarely sell individual used pistons. Or all 4 new pistons & valves have to be purchased new. A Non-INTERFERENCE engine, does have a space, a gap, between the valves bottoming down at it's lowest & the top of the piston. So if the timing belt tears, no valve will be bent, and the bottom of the valve will never hit or even touch the top of the piston. So you can actually spin the crankshaft all you want with a torn timing belt & the top of the piston will never hit any valves. But still, I wouldn't recommend doing this. As bad as a torn timing belt can be on an non-Interference engine, one can automatically feel that you won't have to replace the whole engine. A torn timing belt on an INTERFERENCE engine like on these first generation CR-V, just know that it's time to junk the car. Here in Southern California, engine blocks from the Pick Your Parts junkyards are expensive now, plus all the parts, gaskets, & seals that you have to pay for, you can expect to spend around $2 grand easily, and that's with you doing the work yourself. You don't have to buy OEM parts, but you also don't want to go cheap, like DNJ parts.
There’s 4 total keys right? Two for the cam gears and then one for the crank gear and another for the crank pulley right? Just tryna make sure because I have an extra one but I don’t remember if it’s the extra one I just got from a pick a part or if it’s another one I forgot to but in
From what I remembered, 4 woodruff keys…two curve ones from the sprockets and two box from the crank pulley. Double check everything!
Thank you so much for your video (and your sense of humor) i'm noob. I don't understand the crank pulley\shaft completely. from what I understand its the same process/nut for rotating my crank shaft (chek timing) and taking it off? there has to be something I have not understand. while rotating you, dont want the nails sticking in cam gear, but when unscrewing crankshaft/pulley its ok to keep em' in position? theres no way my nails are holding 130 pds torch there. I dont get it Help! (and yes ive watch, listen, studied many time to your video!)
Thank you for watching Alex Guert. To remove the crank bolt you will need a crank bolt removal tool, a breaker bar, 1/2 ratchet with a cheater bar. I think it’s 19:40 in the video.
Basically, you have to loosen the crank bolt first then tighten it by hand again to rotate the pulley. Then if you want to remove it again, you can insert the drill bits in the hole to hold it in place.
Do you have to set timing to tdc before breaking loose the crankshaft pulley bolt/take it off?
That’s what I did, good practice to set it at TDC before removing old belt.
Hey man so I just bought a crv with 265k miles and this video is going to be a great help I just got confused about the after the reinstall. You want the the blue marks on the gear and the blue mark on the cover to match right? I was confused about the part where you go past 3 tooth to tighten the tensioner
Matt Riley. Hi there! Yeah you want everything to line up after your satisfied with the tightness. 3 tooth is for tightening up the belt tension.
Matt Riley.. take your time and double check everything. All the timing marks must line up. TDC.
H0Me LYFe thank you! So after the belt is on and aligned tdc turn it three teeth to create tension, then tighten, then rotate to be sure, then torque? I think I got it
Matt Riley.. yes. Torque it. Then line it up again TDC marks if you haven’t done that yet.. just make sure it’s on TDC.
Did you do your Timing belt yet?
Sorry around how much did you spend on all the parts in this video? (I haven't finished the video yet)
That was few years ago.. don’t exactly remember anymore sorry.. I think about $200-300 maybe.
👍👏
Is there anyway to check and confirm that the timing belt was changed by mechanic?
Erick Iniguez.. unfortunately.. you won’t be able to see the timing belt without removing the plastic cover. But You can check the other belts like alternator, power steering, and ac belts if it was included with the service.
Erick Iniguez.. you can always ask the mechanic for the old belt.
Pull the valve cover to expose the cam sprockets. You'll have to rotate the engine counter-clockwise (19 mm to the crank bolt) to examine the entire length, but it will be hard to determine the age of the belt unless brand-new or if it's way past the changing interval and cracked in a bunch of places. It's amazing how long these belts last considering the abuse they take.
Am I going to have a problem with the belt I did not do it your way that you showed on video I got it at top dead center pushed up on tensioner and torque the bolt but everything lines up car runs fine
Derek Wilson.. shouldn’t be a problem. 👍
@@h0melyfe792 yes I didn't go by what the manual says you got to go by three teeth then tighten a tensioner just don't want this thing to be loose and jump time
Also after put a new belt on do I need to check it with a timing light
Derek Wilson.. just make sure when your done.. all the marks are all
Lined up and the tension is half a turn.
@@h0melyfe792 yes it looks good just watching the deflection on top of the cams as I turn the motor over it tightens and loosens tightens and loosens is that normal
Excellent video. I've spent 2 weekends now trying to get my '98 CR-V timing belt done. I follow every step, double and triple-check my work along the way and every single time I reinstall the crank pulley, the mark on the pulley always ends up +/- 1-1/2" past the timing cover mark while everything else aligns. What am I doing wrong?! Thanks again for a terrific video!
Thanks. Not sure my bad.. I think mine wasn’t exactly dead on. Was off by a little.
@@h0melyfe792 it ended up being a bad crank pulley; it was in the early stages of separating. Got it done and running great. Thanks again for the video
@@Debucked glad it worked out! Did you end up replacing the crank pulley?
@@h0melyfe792 not yet. I had to order it in. But it'll give me a chance to play with those drive belts again since they're so much fun, lol
what are the other belst called serpentine belt? and what else ?
Accessory belts or V-belts. Or call them by the component they power, like the power steering belt or the alternator belt. A serpentine belt usually turns everything.
@@plumkey197 thanks
What did it take for actual replace time?
@Jesse Leonard. Usually a day. Took awhile for me since I was filming it. Also encountered other problems. Had to wait for parts to arrived.
That slack should not be there between the exhaust camshaft and crankshaft, and also it should be no slack between the both camshaft, that slack there mean the timing belt jumped and the timing is incorrect now, and the engine will not work or work horribly and then stop working overtime.
Why go anti clockwise
How much the timer belt kit cost got the link where can buy it check 1 eBay my friend say no good to buy let me know thank you s much
Bought mine at propartsusa.com for $151.84 but that was a year ago. Don’t know about now. I think I have a link on the description.
@@h0melyfe792 never h that auto parts sale good parts I check to how much got it sonthing work cookies year hear chage to much money to put it that ritgh want s w for like 3 year mired loll ok thank bro s much
Hi, How much time take a good repairman work on it- thanks
Hi, thanks for watching! With the right tools and parts in hand, I say between 2-4hrs if that’s all your doing. Unforeseen events can happen though, so have to put that into consideration.
W up bro good video want do my self to lol where got good part what auto parts can let me now thank s much
Thanks for watching. I got the kit from pro parts USA. I’m sure there’s other good kits out there. For oem parts, I got it from Hondapartsnow.com.
@@h0melyfe792 thank my friend s much you time g bless you
Doing the timing belt / water pump with the seals has turned out to be the biggest pain in the a**, for one glaring reason: The dude who did this procedure before went crazy with the loctite, and used the stuff on everything that didn't require it, which is everything and the entire bottom alternator bolt and one of the three motor mount bracket bolts was missing. The torque mount nut wouldn't budge, and Mr. Piper actually broke the bolt where it goes into the bracket on the engine. I used my grinder and cut the nut off, since the torque mount was toast. I also had to mangle the lower plastic cover because of loctite on the lower left bolt; I used my Dremel to cut around the bolt after failing with 2 different bolt extractors. The tensioner bolt was already rounded off by the prior "mechanic", so I got my grinder and a hammer/chisel and took quite awhile because of loctite and was also TIGHT. I used a mini grinding wheel and cut two deep slits on opposite sides and chiseled the washer out from under the head. The alternator and tensioner bolts I got from Honda dealership. I made a gasket for the lower timing cover and its gonna have to do without the lower left bolt. The third plastic cover was mangled because the other guy overtightened the two bolts, just like you said not to do LOL. The design of most Honda fasteners sucks, because they are already somewhat rounded off because of their design, and they're not very tall, so not much head to put a wrench to. Using 6 point wrenches/sockets are still no guarantee that they wont round off if the tool is not perfectly over the head and pressure applied to keep it from rounding. And doing all this in a confined area where you can't see further aggravates the situation if doing by "feel". My advice? Use PB Blaster or tranny fluid/acetone and pre-treat all fasteners, since these are old vehicles and will have stuck bolts. Use only 6 point properly sized wrenches/sockets and make sure there is no play - not all tools are high quality and some have enough slack that a rounded bolt will likely occur. No crescent or open ended wrenches!! You will end up rounding the bolt - guaranteed. And no loctite! Loctite is not a substitute for using a torque wrench. Thank you for posting this, even though you made it look a little too easy LOL. And that rattling was not the tensioner. The water pump had considerable play and I'm surprised it didn't seize.
Keith Nettles... omg bro.. I totally get you bro.. when previous mechanics rush and don’t do it right, we’re left with the struggles (missing bolts, and over tightened ones). Did you get everything done? Let me know bro.
@@h0melyfe792 I watched several videos on the 97-01 CRV, but found myself going to your video for specific information. You put a lot of specific details in your video, and there were close-up shots that you took the time to include. The info about the bolt sizes and missing pieces primed me to expect the same thing, which certainly was the case as I took everything apart. Still can't figure out the missing bottom alternator bolt and how the thing even worked. Both front motor mounts were busted, and there's a rear main leak that JD will need to address at some point. I'm having to work on this weekends and whenever, and he uses one of my vehicles while his is being worked on. Buying extra parts has taken him some time, too.The cam sprockets were the only components besides the accessories that didn't have loctite on the bolts. The timing belt was in pretty good shape and wasn't cracked. I ALWAYS put my own marks on the old belt and transfer the marks to the new belt, just like you showed. Makes getting the timing correct the first time absolutely foolproof, since it's hard to use the native marks while this engine is in the car. I'll have it back together by Sunday hopefully. I've done the valves (the exhaust valves were TIGHT!)., the fuel filter, and the thermostat,along with everything else, and used Japanese or Honda components.I have all seals and the water pump installed and just a matter of going back together with it. As I write this, I hear that friggin hurricane outside tearing up my shit. Appreciate you checking up on my progress, and I appreciate the level of detail that you incorporate into your videos. You really have a way with teaching, including when you say "OK?" and "boom!". Always get a kick out of that. I'll have to post a vid and send u the link when its together-- or maybe before to show u some of my handy grinder/Dremel work!
Keith Nettles.. hehe.. making this video was a pain in the butt and took lots of effort.. I would love to see that video on how you took those bolts off! Would help in the future in case it happens to one of us. Love how your sharing your experiences, it’s a plus to the crv community. Thanks bro!
@@h0melyfe792 One method I've used for years is having several magnetic parts "bowls" to put all hardware in and I have six of these. I separate the procedure out to "mini procedures" and all hardware goes into it's own bowl, including nuts, bolts, brackets. The actual pieces go on a 3 shelf unit in order of removal to make assembly easier. The car wizard illustrates this well when he did a video on why removal of an evaporator/heater core was so expensive. But there isn't anything that can get you ready for working on an engine whose bolts are bound with loctite and corrosion. The ultimate nightmare I was facing was breaking that tensioner bolt off and having to drill and tap the hole, and the engine would need to come out for this. You only get one crack at this, and the results have to be perfect. Only a machine shop could help after the first fix.fails. Same for the crank bolt on this CRV, because it didn't want to impact out (tried 3 different impacts), and the head had been abused by the prior mechanic and looked like vise grips were used at some point - it was gonna be prone to rounding and the socket wasn't as tight as I would have liked. A little heavy duty tin foil lining the socket tightened the fit. After several failed attempts, I bathed it 3 times/day with homemade penetrating oil (1/2 dextron mercon and 1/2 acetone mixed in a metal oiler) and alternated this with heating moderately. It finally came out intact 3 days later. My next purchase on my wish list is a welder so I'll be able to tack a nut to a rounded fastener.
I think I might be off by one tooth on one of the cams. Even with drill bits in the alignment holes, the cams still tended to move because of the valve springs, and that's aggravating. No acceleration and wants to run slightly hot when put on the road, it's not throwing any codes. I never left the neighborhood because it's too dangerous and flooring the pedal bogs it down even more and won't rev > 2500 RPM's. Idles smoothly and starts right up. I ran it 40 minutes to burp the air out of the cooling system, but putting it on the road is not an option. I'm second-guessing myself on the timing, even though I was sure it was correct. It's kinda hard to see the cam marks with the motor in the car and with a partially destroyed back cover. I'm taking it apart tonight to check my marks again and bought another back cover to replace the destroyed one (It was previously overtightened by the previous owner - just like you warned us not to do!!). The back cover has the top edge I can use for getting it right. I'm about disgusted with this thing, but I've got it halfway apart already in only a few minutes because of no loctite used. Can't believe the previous owner used that crap on almost everything, and was not fun to come behind him to dismantle everything. I've learned that Honda bolts are low profile and will round off with very little effort when loctite has been used.
Bro see lots you guys do this you do better video can do my like Thad thank you bro where you got the parts want to buy my parts want good part timing belt water pump all the kit like Thad you got are good parts le me know thank you s much let me know where can buy Thad good parts can see it thank s much you help
Thanks! I have the link on the description. But that’s two years ago. Not sure if that kit still exist. If not, then go for oem parts. I usually order from Hondapartsnow.com, best of luck!
@@h0melyfe792 thank you s much
Tensioner is such a poor design