Thank You, for such an instructional video. It’s really helped me as I’m restoring the cloth seats on my 300 tdi, and fitting aftermarket heated seat pads which are of a professional spec with exactly the same wiring and buttons etc. Since my 1997 pick-up never had heated seats, I want to fit them exactly as the factory would have, so seeing where the wire goes through the foam base and how it exits through the metal base with a rubber grommet is extremely useful. On removal of the foam and purchase of some Black Upholstery Lining Base Cloth Corovin Dipryl Fabric Non Woven Spunbond, which I see is stuck to the sides of the seat base foam pre assembly. Also I found WHITE UPHOLSTERY TUBULAR STOCKINETTE CUSHION WRAP over the bolster sides, which is to reduce friction between the foam and cover at the sides and thus wear, so I’m also gluing some on as my original seat was. My base needs a little touch from my MIG to repair a failed weld, but my farmy truck has been a working vehicle, however the covers are still good and after putting through the washing machine they are like new. They are not the Teckno fabric and I like to maintain originality, so the heated seats may have some aficionados scratching their beards in the future, with everything down to the fabric being completely original ! There are less and less unmolested original Defenders out there, especially the 300tdi pick-up’s which are a favourite for extreme offroading, but is a joy to drive in its original format without the playful heavy and cumbersome mods. However I did gas flow the head, porting and polishing more for efficiency than BHP, as they were never finished to the standard of a modern cylinder head, and I’m fitting some very subtle rock sliders, which I’m painting body colour; they sit in place of the flimsy Alu sill panels and with some subtle modification should not be noticeable to all but the knowledgeable eye. After all there is absolutely no side impact protection on these old trucks, so it makes sense to extend the stealth of such a strong chassis out to the door level, and it may also help in a marginal overlap frontal collision, by spreading any impact on the front outrigger back to the rear support. But thanks again for your video, it’s helping me fit the heated elements as the OEM did.
Thank You, for such an instructional video. It’s really helped me as I’m restoring the cloth seats on my 300 tdi, and fitting aftermarket heated seat pads which are of a professional spec with exactly the same wiring and buttons etc.
Since my 1997 pick-up never had heated seats, I want to fit them exactly as the factory would have, so seeing where the wire goes through the foam base and how it exits through the metal base with a rubber grommet is extremely useful.
On removal of the foam and purchase of some Black Upholstery Lining Base Cloth Corovin Dipryl Fabric Non Woven Spunbond, which I see is stuck to the sides of the seat base foam pre assembly. Also I found WHITE UPHOLSTERY TUBULAR STOCKINETTE CUSHION WRAP over the bolster sides, which is to reduce friction between the foam and cover at the sides and thus wear, so I’m also gluing some on as my original seat was.
My base needs a little touch from my MIG to repair a failed weld, but my farmy truck has been a working vehicle, however the covers are still good and after putting through the washing machine they are like new. They are not the Teckno fabric and I like to maintain originality, so the heated seats may have some aficionados scratching their beards in the future, with everything down to the fabric being completely original ! There are less and less unmolested original Defenders out there, especially the 300tdi pick-up’s which are a favourite for extreme offroading, but is a joy to drive in its original format without the playful heavy and cumbersome mods.
However I did gas flow the head, porting and polishing more for efficiency than BHP, as they were never finished to the standard of a modern cylinder head, and I’m fitting some very subtle rock sliders, which I’m painting body colour; they sit in place of the flimsy Alu sill panels and with some subtle modification should not be noticeable to all but the knowledgeable eye. After all there is absolutely no side impact protection on these old trucks, so it makes sense to extend the stealth of such a strong chassis out to the door level, and it may also help in a marginal overlap frontal collision, by spreading any impact on the front outrigger back to the rear support.
But thanks again for your video, it’s helping me fit the heated elements as the OEM did.