You got yours cleaner than mine. My only tune is a SQL tune in my car currently. I'm waiting till I replace my main amplifier before doing an SQ tune because I don't have enough wattage to have headroom on the door speakers currently to keep up with the mid/tweeter. Mine currently scoops out between 100hz and 300hz where the mid doesn't get enough power to fully drive it. The Faitalpro 3 inch drivers only need 20w so they are fine and the Morel tweeter only need 50 watts, so it's fine. The JBL I'm using in my door is a lower efficiency 6.5 inch and I may need a higher efficiency driver there and to run my subwoofer up to 140hz if I want something as clean as yours is.
That dB rating actually depends on the frequency. Lower frequencies do not cause as much damage as higher frequencies. That is why people lose hearing in the higher frequencies first. My system is tuned to give me up to 110dB with the sub, 100dB with my midbass, and 90dB with my tweeters.
Hearing damage depends on the length of exposure. 10-15 minutes at 100dB or more is fine once in a while. This is definitely not for daily listening, more like showing off while demoing.
@@RAW-CAt I blast my stereo on a daily basis. I also work in a factory and am the only person in my department that uses hearing protection. I have better hearing than anyone I know. My previous job tested our hearing annually and I never had any change, while everyone else’s got worse every year. Everyone couldn’t believe it because of my car stereo. They always assumed my hearing would go first, but every year I proved them wrong.
Have something in-between the both, lots of power from the Pioneer GM9701 for my sub(alpine typer w12d2) this gives 1200w at 1 ohm, Pioneer GM 9704 bridged to the fronts(focal ES K2 Power 165(2 way passive) and Pioneer GM 8604(bridged) to the rear(Focal ES165 coax), so 400w to the front components and 300w to the rear, this means lots of headroom for EQ, all running from a Alpine CDE 296BT head unit, at the mo it is completely flat with a bit of fader/sub channel balancing, there is so much power on hand, I have yet to install a Audio Dynamics DSP68 and play with EQ/time align etc, system is uber loud with so much bass but it desperately needs tuning, from initial measurements with the dayton audio IMM-6 there is massive dip at 6-700hz and the focal tweeter sound super harsh. here is the dilemma I have the One Audio T28.e and WB3.e but need to build/buy pods to take to the next level, would also love to IB some low drivers under my seats as my doors seem to be made of cling film and thus sound utter shite, man this was a long post. Do you offer a car audio rescue service??? Have all the gear and no freaking idea.... Love the vids, learn so much.
Great info as always! The EQ window, is that the REW EQ? If so, how do you export the settings to the Helix retaining all parameters? And how are you able to see the results in real time? Thanks! Leo
@@user-bp2nr5eu3j Yeah that's the new REW EQ window, where you can adjust and see the EQ predictions in real time. You can just press the floppy save icon in the same window to save the EQ set as a .txt file. They also just added Audiotec Fischer as a DSP alternative, which Helix is a part of, so it automatically sets all the parameters for what kind of EQ can be applied.
Awesome video. What's your rise at the bottom end? I was trying to see from the graph, and I'm not sure if i saw it correctly, but it looked like 20 to 25 db plus from around 300hz all the way down to 20. Is that about right? Cheers
Do you have recommendations for a target curve for SQL? My sub plays up to 149dB and plays 20-80Hz. I've already EQd my whole setup with the Whitledge target, but still had to lower the 1-20kHz region like 3dB, not to make my ears bleed... Should I also take down the 300-1000Hz region as much to get more of a natural sound at the loudest? It currently sounds good but there's something off with it.
I like the bottom part of Whitledge target and the upper part of half Whitledge. Just play around where you want to split it but I usually end up splitting it around 1k hz. To me the Whitledge target sounds muddy or dull because it just rolls off too much midrange and high frequency. But I do love the bass and midbass from Whitledge. But since you’re already pulling down the high frequencies even more than the Whitledge target, it may be some audible distortion that’s offending your ears. Maybe Nerijus has a better solution.
@@user-wl3ub2tb5h can't really be distortion as I'm pushing maybe tens of watts to the midrange and single digits to the tweeters with safe crossovers. It's just when you start playing over 120dB on the highs it starts hurting.
And it will be off, because with SQL you are tuning for the system to be bearable. Not to sound good. It's a compromise. Try a normal SQ house curve if you want it to sound good.
AB amplifiers are the best for sound quality, of course, but for the rear sub a great class D can work great too(I have a Helix P one and it's pretty good ! ) But for the front stage speakers and the front sub too AB class works the best !
@@Adt800 what class D, what AB, what subwoofer ? There are a few pretty good class D amplifiers(and a lot of them don't) and also good or bad AB's. Take in consideration efficiency(class D have around 80-85% and AB about 60-65%) so the rated power will be down by some margin, especially in AB class. That's why get amplifiers with at least 30-40% rms power over the power of the sub. For example I pump my 1000W Helix Q15 with 1500w from my Helix P one and they match perfectly ! Also consider distortion(0.2-0.3% is ok, under 0,1% is great) and S/N. Don't forget about the signal, that must be as clean as possible, distorsion destroys speakers way likely than power ! And watch about the voltage(at least use think cables), if it drops with more than half of volt you will have distorsion and clipping on all amps !
You got yours cleaner than mine. My only tune is a SQL tune in my car currently. I'm waiting till I replace my main amplifier before doing an SQ tune because I don't have enough wattage to have headroom on the door speakers currently to keep up with the mid/tweeter. Mine currently scoops out between 100hz and 300hz where the mid doesn't get enough power to fully drive it. The Faitalpro 3 inch drivers only need 20w so they are fine and the Morel tweeter only need 50 watts, so it's fine. The JBL I'm using in my door is a lower efficiency 6.5 inch and I may need a higher efficiency driver there and to run my subwoofer up to 140hz if I want something as clean as yours is.
Perfekt! Good work
Thank you man for awesome content as always. Never understood the SPL or SQL cause you damage your hearing from 80db and up.
That dB rating actually depends on the frequency. Lower frequencies do not cause as much damage as higher frequencies. That is why people lose hearing in the higher frequencies first. My system is tuned to give me up to 110dB with the sub, 100dB with my midbass, and 90dB with my tweeters.
Hearing damage depends on the length of exposure. 10-15 minutes at 100dB or more is fine once in a while. This is definitely not for daily listening, more like showing off while demoing.
@@RAW-CAt I blast my stereo on a daily basis. I also work in a factory and am the only person in my department that uses hearing protection. I have better hearing than anyone I know. My previous job tested our hearing annually and I never had any change, while everyone else’s got worse every year. Everyone couldn’t believe it because of my car stereo. They always assumed my hearing would go first, but every year I proved them wrong.
Real music is often over 80db, having a system that can do that makes the music more immersive
@@cncgeneral yeah i’m down for metal concerts but I always wear hearing protection. You do you
Have something in-between the both, lots of power from the Pioneer GM9701 for my sub(alpine typer w12d2) this gives 1200w at 1 ohm, Pioneer GM 9704 bridged to the fronts(focal ES K2 Power 165(2 way passive) and Pioneer GM 8604(bridged) to the rear(Focal ES165 coax), so 400w to the front components and 300w to the rear, this means lots of headroom for EQ, all running from a Alpine CDE 296BT head unit, at the mo it is completely flat with a bit of fader/sub channel balancing, there is so much power on hand, I have yet to install a Audio Dynamics DSP68 and play with EQ/time align etc, system is uber loud with so much bass but it desperately needs tuning, from initial measurements with the dayton audio IMM-6 there is massive dip at 6-700hz and the focal tweeter sound super harsh. here is the dilemma I have the One Audio T28.e and WB3.e but need to build/buy pods to take to the next level, would also love to IB some low drivers under my seats as my doors seem to be made of cling film and thus sound utter shite, man this was a long post.
Do you offer a car audio rescue service???
Have all the gear and no freaking idea....
Love the vids, learn so much.
Email me at rawcaraudiotuning@gmail.com
Great info as always! The EQ window, is that the REW EQ? If so, how do you export the settings to the Helix retaining all parameters? And how are you able to see the results in real time? Thanks! Leo
I know about the Import shortcut command for the Helix. During my last build the Helix was not available as a device in REW. Maybe it has been added??
@@user-bp2nr5eu3j Yeah that's the new REW EQ window, where you can adjust and see the EQ predictions in real time.
You can just press the floppy save icon in the same window to save the EQ set as a .txt file.
They also just added Audiotec Fischer as a DSP alternative, which Helix is a part of, so it automatically sets all the parameters for what kind of EQ can be applied.
ruclips.net/video/rsaErYZjHPY/видео.html
Awesome video. What's your rise at the bottom end? I was trying to see from the graph, and I'm not sure if i saw it correctly, but it looked like 20 to 25 db plus from around 300hz all the way down to 20. Is that about right? Cheers
Yep, that is about right. That is way to much bass for my liking, but for demos will be fine.
What's the rise on the sq tune?
@@mikey_2000cc 10-15dB down to 30Hz.
Do you have recommendations for a target curve for SQL? My sub plays up to 149dB and plays 20-80Hz.
I've already EQd my whole setup with the Whitledge target, but still had to lower the 1-20kHz region like 3dB, not to make my ears bleed...
Should I also take down the 300-1000Hz region as much to get more of a natural sound at the loudest? It currently sounds good but there's something off with it.
I like the bottom part of Whitledge target and the upper part of half Whitledge. Just play around where you want to split it but I usually end up splitting it around 1k hz. To me the Whitledge target sounds muddy or dull because it just rolls off too much midrange and high frequency. But I do love the bass and midbass from Whitledge. But since you’re already pulling down the high frequencies even more than the Whitledge target, it may be some audible distortion that’s offending your ears. Maybe Nerijus has a better solution.
@@user-wl3ub2tb5h can't really be distortion as I'm pushing maybe tens of watts to the midrange and single digits to the tweeters with safe crossovers. It's just when you start playing over 120dB on the highs it starts hurting.
And it will be off, because with SQL you are tuning for the system to be bearable. Not to sound good. It's a compromise. Try a normal SQ house curve if you want it to sound good.
Hello, what do you prefer.
Amplifier for subwoofer
Class D or Class AB.
I use whatever gives me enough power for a given application.
AB amplifiers are the best for sound quality, of course, but for the rear sub a great class D can work great too(I have a Helix P one and it's pretty good ! ) But for the front stage speakers and the front sub too AB class works the best !
@@CosminCraiova how about Mono Class D 500 watts vs Mono Class AB 500 watts, which one you choose for rear subwoofer 10" ?
@@Adt800 what class D, what AB, what subwoofer ? There are a few pretty good class D amplifiers(and a lot of them don't) and also good or bad AB's. Take in consideration efficiency(class D have around 80-85% and AB about 60-65%) so the rated power will be down by some margin, especially in AB class. That's why get amplifiers with at least 30-40% rms power over the power of the sub. For example I pump my 1000W Helix Q15 with 1500w from my Helix P one and they match perfectly ! Also consider distortion(0.2-0.3% is ok, under 0,1% is great) and S/N. Don't forget about the signal, that must be as clean as possible, distorsion destroys speakers way likely than power ! And watch about the voltage(at least use think cables), if it drops with more than half of volt you will have distorsion and clipping on all amps !
@@CosminCraiova
Subwoofer crescendo revolution 710 (10”)
Optional :
1. Power mono audison sr1500 (class D)
2. Power mono crescendo revolution 5a1 (class ab)
3. Power mono crescendo revolution 3a1 (class D)
Let's hear it!!!!
YEAH TO MUCH EQ TAKES THE LIFE RIGHT OUT OF THE SOUND .NICE VIDEO
No, not really. The amount of EQ does not matter as long as it is used correctly. The "lifeless" tune is just incorrect house curve.