This is *not* an easy fix mostly because the diagnostic is not so simple... First you need to understand what the Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) is and how it works. VSC is a stability system, so its goals is to compensate for traction loss/skidding. When one of the wheel starts skidding, it needs to be *slowed down* so that the driver can remain in control of the car. The way that VSC slows down the wheel, is by automatically applying the brakes *only on the wheel that is spinning*. This is done via the *ABS* system - of course, when you, the driver, uses the brakes, the pressure is exactly the same on the left side as it is on the right side, so that you brake in a straight line. Only the ABS system has the possibility to apply more pressure *on one side* using hydraulic valves. So, when a wheel skids, the VSC system will try to slow it down, by applying more brakes on this specific wheel. But how does the VSC system detects a skid? It uses a combination of signals that are sent from several sensors: - *wheel speed sensors* (4 of them) - *steering sensor* (the steering angle that the driver wants) - *yaw rate sensor* (the _actual_ rotation angle) - sometimes other sensors as well, depending on your specific vehicle All these signals are analyzed by the VSC Electronic Control Unit (ECU). The VSC ECU analyzes the data and make sure that it is *consistent* - i.e. if you are taking a 90 degree right turn, the steering wheel sensor should be at 90 degrees, the yaw rate sensor should also read 90 degrees, and the wheel speed sensors should be consistent (on a right turn, the left wheels will cover a greater distance than the right ones, and therefore the left wheels are spinning faster than the right ones). If this dataset is not consistent, then the VSC will engage. So as you can see, there are *many* things that can go wrong... any of the sensors, the VSC ECU, the ABS ECU, etc. Also... it could be a much simpler problem: - alignment issue - tire problem (worn, or deformed, or deflated tire) - calibration problem ('zero point calibration') Hopefully, you understand by now that the main problem is the *diagnostic*. This is also why, when you research this issue, you will find people stating that changing this or that fixed the issue... or not! What worked for someone on their car (i.e. steering sensor) might not work on your car. The best way to solve this is to find a *good* mechanic. For starters, you should always start with the easy/cheap stuff: make sure your tires are in good condition, evenly inflated, and that the alignment on your car is good. For the diagnostic itself, there's a procedure that is available in Toyota's service manual. That procedure can vary depending on the car's model. Basically you need to put the VSC system in test mode and test the different sensors. When you follow the testing procedure, the car's on-board diagnostic system will tell you which component or sensor is bad. You can diagnose this yourself, *if* you know the *exact* testing procedure for your car model. You can usually even diagnose it without and OBD2 reader (even though it's helpful). Most of the times the fault code will be displayed by a "blinking" warning light on the instrument panel - for ex. 7 flashes followed by short pause and then 2 flashes means 72 (which *can* mean left front wheel speed sensor). Otherwise a *competent* mechanic will sort it out. :-) *Removing the VSC and ABS fuses works... in the sense that the VSC system won't trigger for no reason anymore, but it obviously disables both the VSC and the ABS systems, and these systems can save your life!!*
I have had this problem for over a year now - that and the infamous rear hatch issue. My 01 Sequoia - only 154,000 miles - has the skid icon light up - the whole car shakes - and will stop the shaking once you apply the brakes and the two VSC icon lights come on. In September they replaced two sensors - I assume wheel speed sensors, presumably the rear ones - they claimed after a test drive that it was fixed. I picked the car up and wasn’t five minutes away from the shop when it happened again. The sensors are so expensive I waited until this week when my rear hatch again - had the plastic lock parts replaced with metal ones - so I brought it back into the same shop that I have worked with for years and believe I trust. They claim two more pieces of the lock mechanism required replacement - cost almost a grand with labor - I picked it up Thursday night after hours - tried the hatch and it worked - didn’t use the car on Friday and on Saturday morning the lock again won’t work. They thought it was the yaw sensor - but trying to save me some money - recalibrated the steering sensor and the yaw sensor. They test drove it and thought it was fixed. Well this time I was maybe fifteen minutes from the shop when the whole icon light - braking and shaking happened again. Is it likely the yaw sensor? I put $4000 into it in September - needed a windshield, new tires, the rear hatch lock, suspension related items and others. Now I just dropped $1700 on the work I named above - included an alternator. My wife is convinced it’s not worth putting anymore money into it - yet you hear Gen 1 Sequoia owners getting 250,000 miles or more out of the vehicle. I also need to replace the timing belt - $1800. What’s your thoughts?
Gerard, your comment is very well written! I appreciate the time you took for writing it. Your knowledge is very valuable to me. If you are a contributor to any other forums, please advise. I would love get such detailed information on vehicle repairs.
@@jimcaldwell8508 what is the rear hatch issue? I replaced the handle outside under the bezel and it was so stiff that the bezel is now cracked and it is hell to get lift gate open.
ABS is sure good. But VSC in these cars is actually garbage and has almost CAUSED me accidents. it does not kick in fast enough to prevent sliding. so when it does kick in, you basically lose all control after you already started sliding. it takes away brake and gas control leaving you with just steering control. and the whole point is to prevent sliding. it causes you to slide longer than if it were completely off.
If you unplug the plug going into your brake master cylinder on the side facing the drivers fender then that will disable the vsc while leaving your abs working. You'll see the vsc off lights come on but it doesn't throw a code. The button that says VSC Off inside the truck will not actually turn the vsc off so don't bother with it. I did the unplug thing and have had the abs flash for no reason and it does not try and lock up on me. Also put some electrical tape around where you unplugged just to keep moisture contaminants out. Obviously this is not a recommended fix as a first step but for those of us who have dealt with this problem with no resolution then it's the only fix we have. Just beware that the vsc tries to help keep the vehicle from rolling over during wheel jerk reactions so by unplugging it you must be more cautious of hard wheel jerk/ slolem reactions, which is a given anyways with large to heavy SUV's.
I had the same exact problem 01 Sequoia, they said 500 to 700 to fix it. I said hell no, 5 mons later I went to get new tires. I switched from all terrain tires to regular tires and nevr had another issue again, my suv drives like it's new
Wish we could upload videos to show what our cars are doing mine has all three same lights and has a rough idle but may be bad gas don’t buy heb gas. I put chevon with Techron 2 gallons of super unleaded and filled the Rey with unleaded I’ll see what goes on & update
This started happening on my sequoia also. Happens randomly and the whole brake pedal starts to shake violently. The slip sensor and shaking doesn’t go away until car slows down to least 15mph then it goes away. Any fixes for this problem?
@@ryanculler7324 I just did this yesterday. Picked up a 2002 Sequoia with this issue. Looking at the master cylinder from the front of the vehicle it is directly to the right and connected to the cylinder
I have a 2003 Sequoia and it does this when I make a long right turn on the freeway off ramp since I had under 100,000 miles. Mine turns off after I let off the gas and start going straight. It seems to me that Toyota should recall, but the dealer said nope. I found many others with the same problem on you tube. I'm going to unplug my VSC & Trac off and see what happens. Someone out there has had to crash due to this issue. Its a lawsuit waiting to happen...
I also have 2003 Sequoia the but the TRAC OFF, VAC TRAC & BRAKE lights keep coming on and turns off by itself. I don't want to take it to auto mechanic that will get my money easily. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
@@joecazares1300 I took it back to local Toyota dealer. they couldn't do anything trying to charge me for more. My mechanic friend just replaced the engine. Now my Sequoia running fine.
I had seen that I had a wheel speed sensor that the wire was cut on it so I replaced it and it started doing this. I unplugged it agin and it went away. Keep the annoying lights but bypass the system.
I've got the same problem. But it can happen at any speed. However, once the slippery road light goes off, the brakes release automatically and the alarm goes off. Then immediately the "TRAC Off" and "VSC Trac" lights go on and stays on which disables the brakes grabbing. Funny thing though, this started happening a week after I had new front rotors and brakes put on. Im thinking the Yaw rate sensor, but also the speed sensors in the brake chamber itself. Any suggestions???
The problem is the steering wheel position sensor that is telling the car the wheels are turned 30 degrees and you are accelerating. It started when he turned. This guy is noting being very smart continuing to drive this car messing up like this.
Aaron Bradley It will engage driving straight, turning, just about anything. I am smart, because I am in control, and know what to expect but need to diagnose the errors and figure out the true cause
Aaron Bradley can I ask how you know that? I think I'm having a similar issue. I actually haven't seen it happen because someone gave me the car and I immediately put it in the shop since he didn't want to pay for the work, but it seems at least like a similar issue.
@@aaronbradley4361 so did you actually fixed the problem? because I have the same exact problem and I replace the Yaw rate sensor. but the light still coming on! please answer me and tell me how did u fixed the problem! thanks
This just happened to my 2002 Toyota Sequoia but I wasn't,t going that fast. I was slowing down to turn into a driveway when mines happened. Does anybody know what the problem is and how to fix it?
I had the same problem with mine. I coughed up $500 and replaced the yaw rate AND deceleration sensor located under the center console. Truck runs beautiful now :-)
My '02 with 230k started doing this after I purchased it. 1st time it hapnd the whole family was headed to a ballgame, vsc madness kicked in at 70mph ish thru a turn. Scared my while damned family including me. Pulled abs fuse under hood no more vsc madness. This is such a sweet v8 old skool suv but the electronic BS engineering seems a bit odd on these trucks
Took ours to toyota. They said they couldn't fix it because the computer was bad. It was a $1000 fix. So I have to live with it. It will stop doing it for awhile if you stop for a second.
This just happened to me today out of the blue when I was slowing down getting off the freeway it did it for a split second then it stopped. I hope it was just because of a glitch or something.
piece of crap computer i have the same problem, i unplugged two CIRCUIT plugs directly underneath the master cylinder,2 lights will light up, the abs VSC & TRAC-OFF, BUT NO MORE TERRIFYING SUDDEN FRONT RIGHT WHEEL LOCKING WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY. IM SO... DISAPOINTED ON TOYOTA FOR CARELESS ATTENTION TO THIS MATTER. I CALLED THEM AT DEALERSHIP, ALL THEY SAID SORRY NO RECALL FOR YOUR VEH ACCORDING TO YOUR VIN NUMBER. B.S.
Patrick Cline Yes, we unplugged the ABS system under the hood. A giant plug connects to the ABS computer, and once we unplugged it, it couldn't engage ABS anymore.
jarred can you post a video or send me one an how to fix my sequoia I'm reading that you unplugged the abs system can you show me because i don't know what I'm looking at im just trying to save some money thanks
Jarrod Smith. He isn't complaining. He's merely showing a common problem that this model vehicle has, mine included. The vehicle has over 300k miles on it because it's a quality vehicle. Electricals fail over time and this is an issue that should be taken serious by Toyota. When in this video was he complaining?
I have a 2001 that the lights came on and beat but the brakes worked okay I would just pull over and cut the car off and cut it back on the light would be off
By cut the car off and cut it back on what exactly does that mean or do to the vehicle? After you cut it off is that a wire you are cutting off and joining back together?
I just feel bad that the Sequoia making all that noise and your still driving it. Sorry, about my comment but I own a sequoia and it breaks my heart when I see the car making all that noise
dafuq u expecting sensors to live forever? your car has 321 thousand miles on it man,,, it is normal that it needs some maintenance after 15 years of driving
This is *not* an easy fix mostly because the diagnostic is not so simple...
First you need to understand what the Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) is and how it works. VSC is a stability system, so its goals is to compensate for traction loss/skidding.
When one of the wheel starts skidding, it needs to be *slowed down* so that the driver can remain in control of the car.
The way that VSC slows down the wheel, is by automatically applying the brakes *only on the wheel that is spinning*.
This is done via the *ABS* system - of course, when you, the driver, uses the brakes, the pressure is exactly the same on the left side as it is on the right side, so that you brake in a straight line. Only the ABS system has the possibility to apply more pressure *on one side* using hydraulic valves.
So, when a wheel skids, the VSC system will try to slow it down, by applying more brakes on this specific wheel.
But how does the VSC system detects a skid?
It uses a combination of signals that are sent from several sensors:
- *wheel speed sensors* (4 of them)
- *steering sensor* (the steering angle that the driver wants)
- *yaw rate sensor* (the _actual_ rotation angle)
- sometimes other sensors as well, depending on your specific vehicle
All these signals are analyzed by the VSC Electronic Control Unit (ECU).
The VSC ECU analyzes the data and make sure that it is *consistent* - i.e. if you are taking a 90 degree right turn, the steering wheel sensor should be at 90 degrees, the yaw rate sensor should also read 90 degrees, and the wheel speed sensors should be consistent (on a right turn, the left wheels will cover a greater distance than the right ones, and therefore the left wheels are spinning faster than the right ones).
If this dataset is not consistent, then the VSC will engage.
So as you can see, there are *many* things that can go wrong... any of the sensors, the VSC ECU, the ABS ECU, etc.
Also... it could be a much simpler problem:
- alignment issue
- tire problem (worn, or deformed, or deflated tire)
- calibration problem ('zero point calibration')
Hopefully, you understand by now that the main problem is the *diagnostic*.
This is also why, when you research this issue, you will find people stating that changing this or that fixed the issue... or not!
What worked for someone on their car (i.e. steering sensor) might not work on your car.
The best way to solve this is to find a *good* mechanic.
For starters, you should always start with the easy/cheap stuff: make sure your tires are in good condition, evenly inflated, and that the alignment on your car is good.
For the diagnostic itself, there's a procedure that is available in Toyota's service manual. That procedure can vary depending on the car's model.
Basically you need to put the VSC system in test mode and test the different sensors.
When you follow the testing procedure, the car's on-board diagnostic system will tell you which component or sensor is bad.
You can diagnose this yourself, *if* you know the *exact* testing procedure for your car model.
You can usually even diagnose it without and OBD2 reader (even though it's helpful). Most of the times the fault code will be displayed by a "blinking" warning light on the instrument panel - for ex. 7 flashes followed by short pause and then 2 flashes means 72 (which *can* mean left front wheel speed sensor).
Otherwise a *competent* mechanic will sort it out. :-)
*Removing the VSC and ABS fuses works... in the sense that the VSC system won't trigger for no reason anymore, but it obviously disables both the VSC and the ABS systems, and these systems can save your life!!*
I have had this problem for over a year now - that and the infamous rear hatch issue. My 01 Sequoia - only 154,000 miles - has the skid icon light up - the whole car shakes - and will stop the shaking once you apply the brakes and the two VSC icon lights come on. In September they replaced two sensors - I assume wheel speed sensors, presumably the rear ones - they claimed after a test drive that it was fixed. I picked the car up and wasn’t five minutes away from the shop when it happened again. The sensors are so expensive I waited until this week when my rear hatch again - had the plastic lock parts replaced with metal ones - so I brought it back into the same shop that I have worked with for years and believe I trust. They claim two more pieces of the lock mechanism required replacement - cost almost a grand with labor - I picked it up Thursday night after hours - tried the hatch and it worked - didn’t use the car on Friday and on Saturday morning the lock again won’t work. They thought it was the yaw sensor - but trying to save me some money - recalibrated the steering sensor and the yaw sensor. They test drove it and thought it was fixed. Well this time I was maybe fifteen minutes from the shop when the whole icon light - braking and shaking happened again. Is it likely the yaw sensor? I put $4000 into it in September - needed a windshield, new tires, the rear hatch lock, suspension related items and others. Now I just dropped $1700 on the work I named above - included an alternator. My wife is convinced it’s not worth putting anymore money into it - yet you hear Gen 1 Sequoia owners getting 250,000 miles or more out of the vehicle. I also need to replace the timing belt - $1800. What’s your thoughts?
Gerard, your comment is very well written! I appreciate the time you took for writing it. Your knowledge is very valuable to me. If you are a contributor to any other forums, please advise. I would love get such detailed information on vehicle repairs.
@@jimcaldwell8508 what is the rear hatch issue? I replaced the handle outside under the bezel and it was so stiff that the bezel is now cracked and it is hell to get lift gate open.
ABS is sure good. But VSC in these cars is actually garbage and has almost CAUSED me accidents. it does not kick in fast enough to prevent sliding. so when it does kick in, you basically lose all control after you already started sliding. it takes away brake and gas control leaving you with just steering control. and the whole point is to prevent sliding. it causes you to slide longer than if it were completely off.
If you unplug the plug going into your brake master cylinder on the side facing the drivers fender then that will disable the vsc while leaving your abs working. You'll see the vsc off lights come on but it doesn't throw a code. The button that says VSC Off inside the truck will not actually turn the vsc off so don't bother with it. I did the unplug thing and have had the abs flash for no reason and it does not try and lock up on me. Also put some electrical tape around where you unplugged just to keep moisture contaminants out. Obviously this is not a recommended fix as a first step but for those of us who have dealt with this problem with no resolution then it's the only fix we have. Just beware that the vsc tries to help keep the vehicle from rolling over during wheel jerk reactions so by unplugging it you must be more cautious of hard wheel jerk/ slolem reactions, which is a given anyways with large to heavy SUV's.
Wht u forgot to say. Is tht after doing tht. The brake light is onall the time
I had the same exact problem 01 Sequoia, they said 500 to 700 to fix it. I said hell no, 5 mons later I went to get new tires. I switched from all terrain tires to regular tires and nevr had another issue again, my suv drives like it's new
My 2002 Toyota Sequoia does this when I’m going slow. Hooked it up to an OBD II scanner and it said it was the yaw rate sensor.
How did you fix it just wondering
@@loganrausch5409 replace the yaw sensor lol
@@ky7037 The yaw rate sensor has to be calibrated. Not as simple as just replacing it.
Thank you so much for this video. I was having the same problem, and couldn't figure it out. Our Sequoia is an 02 and it has over 250,000 miles on it.
Simple, when the abs is faulty this happen not sure though
Is it linked to the brake booster, yes, it’s grabbing to the right, doing the same
Wish we could upload videos to show what our cars are doing mine has all three same lights and has a rough idle but may be bad gas don’t buy heb gas. I put chevon with Techron 2 gallons of super unleaded and filled the Rey with unleaded I’ll see what goes on & update
replace the front or rear ABS monitoring sensors. reading is off on one of them.
No!
This started happening on my sequoia also. Happens randomly and the whole brake pedal starts to shake violently. The slip sensor and shaking doesn’t go away until car slows down to least 15mph then it goes away. Any fixes for this problem?
I disconnected the trac control on power steering fluid container
@@ericdub9740 which one
@@ryanculler7324 I just did this yesterday. Picked up a 2002 Sequoia with this issue. Looking at the master cylinder from the front of the vehicle it is directly to the right and connected to the cylinder
I have a 2003 Sequoia and it does this when I make a long right turn on the freeway off ramp since I had under 100,000 miles. Mine turns off after I let off the gas and start going straight. It seems to me that Toyota should recall, but the dealer said nope. I found many others with the same problem on you tube. I'm going to unplug my VSC & Trac off and see what happens. Someone out there has had to crash due to this issue. Its a lawsuit waiting to happen...
I also have 2003 Sequoia the but the TRAC OFF, VAC TRAC & BRAKE lights keep coming on and turns off by itself. I don't want to take it to auto mechanic that will get my money easily. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
VannitaKularb K i have the exact same problem, I don’t know what to do, how did you fixed it.?? What what’s causing it??
@@suborpion1 Any resolution to this? I also have a 2003 Sequoia and same issue
@@vannitakularbk677 Any resolution to this? I also have a 2003 Sequoia and same issue
@@joecazares1300 I took it back to local Toyota dealer. they couldn't do anything trying to charge me for more.
My mechanic friend just replaced the engine. Now my Sequoia running fine.
I had seen that I had a wheel speed sensor that the wire was cut on it so I replaced it and it started doing this. I unplugged it agin and it went away. Keep the annoying lights but bypass the system.
Should also check to see if your Yaw Rate Sensor is going bad as well
I had the exact same problem. Yep...Yaw Rate Sensor was bad.
Lee Dickerson did you change the yaw rate sensor and do a zero point calibration?
I've got the same problem. But it can happen at any speed. However, once the slippery road light goes off, the brakes release automatically and the alarm goes off. Then immediately the "TRAC Off" and "VSC Trac" lights go on and stays on which disables the brakes grabbing. Funny thing though, this started happening a week after I had new front rotors and brakes put on. Im thinking the Yaw rate sensor, but also the speed sensors in the brake chamber itself. Any suggestions???
The problem is the steering wheel position sensor that is telling the car the wheels are turned 30 degrees and you are accelerating. It started when he turned. This guy is noting being very smart continuing to drive this car messing up like this.
Aaron Bradley It will engage driving straight, turning, just about anything. I am smart, because I am in control, and know what to expect but need to diagnose the errors and figure out the true cause
It's the steering wheel position sensor. It thinks your wheel is turned and it is not, the computer thinks it's in a skid
Aaron Bradley can I ask how you know that? I think I'm having a similar issue. I actually haven't seen it happen because someone gave me the car and I immediately put it in the shop since he didn't want to pay for the work, but it seems at least like a similar issue.
@@aaronbradley4361 so did you actually fixed the problem? because I have the same exact problem and I replace the Yaw rate sensor. but the light still coming on!
please answer me and tell me how did u fixed the problem! thanks
Pull the traction controller fuse
you should also have your cooling system checked, it appears to be running hotter than normal,specially on what looks like a cool misty day.
ISAAC HUERTA thats the oil pressure gauge
This just happened to my 2002 Toyota Sequoia but I wasn't,t going that fast. I was slowing down to turn into a driveway when mines happened. Does anybody know what the problem is and how to fix it?
mine is on all the time vsc and Trac off any comments how to fixed let me know please
I had the same problem with mine. I coughed up $500 and replaced the yaw rate AND deceleration sensor located under the center console. Truck runs beautiful now :-)
Yes, more than likely it is the Yaw rate sensor.
Eduardo Diaz you ever fix it?
Luis Amoroso are both the yaw rate and deceleration sensor located under the center console?
My '02 with 230k started doing this after I purchased it. 1st time it hapnd the whole family was headed to a ballgame, vsc madness kicked in at 70mph ish thru a turn. Scared my while damned family including me. Pulled abs fuse under hood no more vsc madness. This is such a sweet v8 old skool suv but the electronic BS engineering seems a bit odd on these trucks
Took ours to toyota. They said they couldn't fix it because the computer was bad. It was a $1000 fix. So I have to live with it. It will stop doing it for awhile if you stop for a second.
if you unplug the sensor on your brake fluid resevoir it will not shudder but the trac control lights will stay on.
Don Thomas
How?
My Toyota Sequoia is breaking off automatically when I'm going slow and then increasing speed is still brakes how to fix
This just happened to me today out of the blue when I was slowing down getting off the freeway it did it for a split second then it stopped. I hope it was just because of a glitch or something.
Did you ever figure out the issue? I've replaced yaw rate sensor, steering angle sensor, speed sensors and ECU.. Nothing
Did you do a Zero Position Calibration?
@@robertscrim2231 It was repaired at Toyota, so I'd hope. But I ended up selling it, tired of always worrying about it
Was this ever fixed? If so, was it the yaw rate sensor?
2002 3000 thousand miles same issue with mine how do you disable it?
300,000 miles I meant
I have the same issue, anyone know the fix for it. I have a 2001. I keep herein to replace yar sensor
Replace your butt
piece of crap computer i have the same problem, i unplugged two CIRCUIT plugs directly underneath the master cylinder,2 lights will light up, the abs VSC & TRAC-OFF,
BUT NO MORE TERRIFYING SUDDEN FRONT RIGHT WHEEL LOCKING WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY.
IM SO... DISAPOINTED ON TOYOTA FOR CARELESS ATTENTION TO THIS MATTER. I CALLED THEM AT DEALERSHIP, ALL THEY SAID SORRY NO RECALL FOR YOUR VEH ACCORDING TO YOUR VIN NUMBER. B.S.
Can you send me a picture of how I can fix this?
two plugs directly under master cylinder. u will see trac and vsc lights on, but no more terrifying sudden braking while driving.
sure send me an email to jisaachuerta@gmail.com
I need you to send me a picture or SOMETHING on how to disable my vsc/trac
Anyone know how to turn it off?... I hate that shit.. or if I can take it out?.. I don’t see anything that will say turn off
Did you find a solution?
Patrick Cline Yes, we unplugged the ABS system under the hood. A giant plug connects to the ABS computer, and once we unplugged it, it couldn't engage ABS anymore.
jarred can you post a video or send me one an how to fix my sequoia I'm reading that you unplugged the abs system can you show me because i don't know what I'm looking at im just trying to save some money thanks
Patrick Cline steering wheel position sensor
Jarred Johnson where is the abs plug located. Can you post a video. I have the same problem with the same vehicle but on the left side
@@jarredjohnson3486 and how u pass tne smog like tht
Lol dudes complaining with over 300k and the check engine light is warning that something needs repaired XD
Jarrod Smith. He isn't complaining. He's merely showing a common problem that this model vehicle has, mine included. The vehicle has over 300k miles on it because it's a quality vehicle. Electricals fail over time and this is an issue that should be taken serious by Toyota. When in this video was he complaining?
I have a 2001 that the lights came on and beat but the brakes worked okay I would just pull over and cut the car off and cut it back on the light would be off
@@markandrews8070by cut the car off what exactly do you mean?
By cut the car off and cut it back on what exactly does that mean or do to the vehicle? After you cut it off is that a wire you are cutting off and joining back together?
Please fix the problem b4 it gets worse
Huh? WTF.
I just feel bad that the Sequoia making all that noise and your still driving it. Sorry, about my comment but I own a sequoia and it breaks my heart when I see the car making all that noise
Lmao ^ this guy
dafuq u expecting sensors to live forever? your car has 321 thousand miles on it man,,, it is normal that it needs some maintenance after 15 years of driving
So instead of pulling over, you decided to keep driving and put everyone else and yourself in danger all the while whining about it. Smart.