Thankyou. I am new to adventure riding and came back from a 2 day road book rally in the uk through mud and rain and found on cleaning and checking the bike that one rear pad has worn away completely. Thanks for taking the tim to explain this.
That is super awesome that it helped. I'm really happy that it's working for people new to the sport, that is exactly why I'm publishing these. Any questions, just ask I'm more than happy to help. And welcome to the community.
Watched this video when it was new, but my bike was so new I couldn't relate to the issues at the time. Now with 6,000 miles on the bike I can relate completely! My outside pad is certainly worn more than the inside and the caliper seems to move freely, so I'm thinking that the brake pedal return is likely my issue as well. Thanks for this video....safe travels!
This message makes me so happy! Great it helps! Yes that pivot needs to be serviced regularly. Some uneven wear on the pads is normal but should be marginal.
Yep, indeed. Although my pad consumption during the mud rallies is just insane :) In mud and wet off-road the sintered pads make sense because the dirt will grind them slower than normal ones. For normal travel semi/sintered pads are what I'd go for.
Im little confused. Why is the brake adjustment set for low pedal? Then a weird height adjustment welded on the pedal? First thing i had to do is adjust that brake adjustment to max Up. So I could have rear brakes response. But thanks for pad assessment. Cintered pads better! Ebc. And yamaha messed up on a oring style pivot. Should be just metal to metal like most off road bikes! Just grease on occasion. 30yrs. Bike mechanic
Thank you so much for these videos, very helpful! Have you replaced the rotor by any chance, and where did you get that high pipe? I had a CB500X like you, and put that Scorpion exhaust on the T7, though it isn't as high as yours!
Hi Javraj, you're most welcome, I'm happy that the video was useful. I have not yet replaced the rotor/disc it does not wear out that quickly. My exhaust system is custom build by the guy here in Czech republic. I have video in making about the high exhaust modification as a lot of people asks but it is not really off-the shelf solution.
My Yamaha dealer is selling the OEM pads cheaper than I can buy EBC pads here in Czechia so to be honest... OEM kind of wins. I did 15k km on 1st OEM rear pads that's good enough and they're a gentler on the disc.
@@FARANDFURTHER jo, už jsem povolil, napružený to moc neni, spíš byl zalepenej závit. Pedál se hejbal, ale ohnul se. Neuvažoval jsi o tom lanku, které by mělo ohnutí bránit? Si říkám aby to zas pak nešlo do vodní pumpy.
No vidiš, možná že to tam bylo zalepený, nepamatuju, už jsem do rozebíral tolikrát. Já to vyřešil jinak, uřízl jsem tu sklápěcí věc a navařil tam prostě kus železa ve tvaru jak to mají MX brzdové páčky. Od té doby jsem to neohnul. Do té doby 6x, zlomil jsem ji a svařil.
1st. when driving in dirt, clean and lubricate all pivot points regularly. Also look for the pivot point of the rear suspension. The maintenance intervals are too long for that 2nd. Do not lift the motorcycle from under the skid plate or by the fram sub-members. See your Manual on page 6-34 (Supporting the motorcycle) for this.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. 1) In terms of brake calliper pins I'd suggest inspection before taking it apart and re-lubricating when not necessary. The calliper pins have now 24000km on them and move freely and smoothly. Rear suspension maintenance has little to do with the brake system. I assume you just mentioning it for completeness. In those 24000km I've done I serviced the rear linkage 3 times and it has been always fine despite I've been riding off-road and in bad conditions. The dry rear suspension linkage issue floating on internet seems to be a bit exaggerated but I do agree with checking it more often than the 10k service interval. But that is valid for example for oil change as well. It depends on the environment and how bike is ridden. Yes, service intervals are too long for heavy off-road use, but over maintenance is also bad, I learned that over the time. 2) Thanks for citation from the user manual about the supporting the bike. Any idea what is the rationale? If I understand correctly the jack should be placed under the sump and using wood between the sump and the jack. In that case the whole bike is lifted on the sump. That way the bike is lifted using the engine instead of the frame which is the case when I lift it using the skid plate.
Well, that's not that easy. OEM pads are good middle ground. The EBC HH are quite aggressive on the disc and the Brenta does have very soft compound. Combine that with the fact that my Yamaha dealer is selling me OEM pads cheaper than EBC or Brenta.... it's the OEM now. But people got back with some other brands and suggestions so there is probably some 3rd party options but for me at the moment OEM seems good way to go.
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Thank You for doing this for all of us T7 owners and fans. I will check and clean my spring and all in there too. Thanks! Cheers from Romania!
Any time!
Thank you for the video, really informative as usual !
Glad you liked it! Thanks!
Well done.Thx for this Informationen
Glad it was helpful! It was quite a surprise for me as well.
Thankyou. I am new to adventure riding and came back from a 2 day road book rally in the uk through mud and rain and found on cleaning and checking the bike that one rear pad has worn away completely. Thanks for taking the tim to explain this.
That is super awesome that it helped. I'm really happy that it's working for people new to the sport, that is exactly why I'm publishing these. Any questions, just ask I'm more than happy to help.
And welcome to the community.
Watched this video when it was new, but my bike was so new I couldn't relate to the issues at the time. Now with 6,000 miles on the bike I can relate completely! My outside pad is certainly worn more than the inside and the caliper seems to move freely, so I'm thinking that the brake pedal return is likely my issue as well. Thanks for this video....safe travels!
This message makes me so happy! Great it helps! Yes that pivot needs to be serviced regularly.
Some uneven wear on the pads is normal but should be marginal.
@@FARANDFURTHER Thanks for the reply....ride safe!
Thanks. Really helpful update and worth a check regularly when riding off road.
I'm glad it was useful. When riding off-road it definitely is something to make part of regular check.
Thanks for sharing, this will be another thing for me to check.
Yep, it is something to keep an eye on as part of the routine maintenance. Especially when riding in crap.
12,000 miles on my treat pads from new. Just changed this week. Front still got some wear left on them.
Mine wore to metal. Going to strip and clean, also clean the brake light switch as it a pears to be sticking on
Thank you for the information, buddy.
No problem 👍
Thanks for this, great video…I’m having the same problem. What type of grease do you suggest for the bushing?
Thank you for your video! Cheap in prod motorcycle with no protective devices anywhere.
Sintered pads ar for those who want to change discs instead of pads :)
And that bushing is ok to fill with grease, it can prolong cleaning interval.
Yep, indeed. Although my pad consumption during the mud rallies is just insane :) In mud and wet off-road the sintered pads make sense because the dirt will grind them slower than normal ones. For normal travel semi/sintered pads are what I'd go for.
Im little confused. Why is the brake adjustment set for low pedal? Then a weird height adjustment welded on the pedal? First thing i had to do is adjust that brake adjustment to max Up. So I could have rear brakes response. But thanks for pad assessment. Cintered pads better! Ebc. And yamaha messed up on a oring style pivot. Should be just metal to metal like most off road bikes! Just grease on occasion. 30yrs. Bike mechanic
Great videos! May I ask what high mount exhaust set up you installed? Looks good.
Hi El, I'm glad the video has been helpful. Another video about the high exhaust is coming.
@@FARANDFURTHER excellent! I'm looking forward to watch it!
@@fjsierram me too!
Thank you so much for these videos, very helpful! Have you replaced the rotor by any chance, and where did you get that high pipe?
I had a CB500X like you, and put that Scorpion exhaust on the T7, though it isn't as high as yours!
Hi Javraj, you're most welcome, I'm happy that the video was useful.
I have not yet replaced the rotor/disc it does not wear out that quickly.
My exhaust system is custom build by the guy here in Czech republic. I have video in making about the high exhaust modification as a lot of people asks but it is not really off-the shelf solution.
I installed the EBC HH better lifetime and brake Power for less money than OEM
But they eat your discs as per the video
My Yamaha dealer is selling the OEM pads cheaper than I can buy EBC pads here in Czechia so to be honest... OEM kind of wins. I did 15k km on 1st OEM rear pads that's good enough and they're a gentler on the disc.
Thankssss
Most welcome!
Prosimtě ten černý šroub, který drží brzdový pedál, je levý nebo normální pravý závit? Nedaří se mi povolit :)
Pravý, jde to ztuha neb je to napružené pružinou a jestli se ti pedál hejbe ztuha tak je uvnitř bordýlek.
@@FARANDFURTHER jo, už jsem povolil, napružený to moc neni, spíš byl zalepenej závit. Pedál se hejbal, ale ohnul se. Neuvažoval jsi o tom lanku, které by mělo ohnutí bránit? Si říkám aby to zas pak nešlo do vodní pumpy.
No vidiš, možná že to tam bylo zalepený, nepamatuju, už jsem do rozebíral tolikrát.
Já to vyřešil jinak, uřízl jsem tu sklápěcí věc a navařil tam prostě kus železa ve tvaru jak to mají MX brzdové páčky. Od té doby jsem to neohnul.
Do té doby 6x, zlomil jsem ji a svařil.
1st. when driving in dirt, clean and lubricate all pivot points regularly.
Also look for the pivot point of the rear suspension.
The maintenance intervals are too long for that
2nd. Do not lift the motorcycle from under the skid plate or by the fram sub-members.
See your Manual on page 6-34 (Supporting the motorcycle) for this.
Hi, thanks for the feedback.
1) In terms of brake calliper pins I'd suggest inspection before taking it apart and re-lubricating when not necessary. The calliper pins have now 24000km on them and move freely and smoothly.
Rear suspension maintenance has little to do with the brake system. I assume you just mentioning it for completeness. In those 24000km I've done I serviced the rear linkage 3 times and it has been always fine despite I've been riding off-road and in bad conditions.
The dry rear suspension linkage issue floating on internet seems to be a bit exaggerated but I do agree with checking it more often than the 10k service interval.
But that is valid for example for oil change as well. It depends on the environment and how bike is ridden. Yes, service intervals are too long for heavy off-road use, but over maintenance is also bad, I learned that over the time.
2) Thanks for citation from the user manual about the supporting the bike.
Any idea what is the rationale?
If I understand correctly the jack should be placed under the sump and using wood between the sump and the jack. In that case the whole bike is lifted on the sump. That way the bike is lifted using the engine instead of the frame which is the case when I lift it using the skid plate.
So ! from now on oem breakpads ?
Well, that's not that easy. OEM pads are good middle ground. The EBC HH are quite aggressive on the disc and the Brenta does have very soft compound. Combine that with the fact that my Yamaha dealer is selling me OEM pads cheaper than EBC or Brenta.... it's the OEM now. But people got back with some other brands and suggestions so there is probably some 3rd party options but for me at the moment OEM seems good way to go.
You have a pin missing on top aswell
Time? Which pin?
Wrong pads for the application if you want any semblance of longevity. Learned once after using organic. Never again.
Yes, the harder pads would last longer i the terrain.
True that