Sean after owning my '03 Holden VY series I S ute for 7 years, nothing last forever. It's an 18 year old ute & unless you do your checks every week, things will go wrong. Within the 7 years I've had my ute, I've replaced the radiator, water, power steering pump, pulleys, knock sensor, serviced the injectors, fuel rail, replaced the MAF sensor. Some people will be taken back with this work but it's worth it in the long run if we're to keep them on the road. Locally made cars, the majority of the parts are cheap when comparing to overseas made vehicles which still makes them viable. In the end once the work is done, you'll have peace of mind.
You nailed it. The cost of work and parts on more modern cars can easily hurt you in ways only evil people and car companies can. Our cars are easy to fix and what we call expensive is cheap for more advanced vehicles.
I've had my falcon 1 and a half years and replaced the front upper and lower control arms, front shocks, steering rack, water pump, fuel filter, power steering pump, rear leaf spring bushings, alternator, gear shift linkage bushings, tie rods, head gasket, heat sensors, fuel sensors.... There's more but you get the point. Whoever owned this damned thing before me took absolutely no care.. My first car and I'm to deep to get out now 🤣 Next time i'll pay and have her looked over by a mechanic and myself will do a much more thorough inspection before purchasing.
Ive been watching your videos on and off since I got my XR6 8 months ago, I always forget to subscribe as I dont log into YT often. Im on my 4th day of being IN and UNDER my car since it went into limp mode and I needed 16 jumpstarts to get home, I was stuck on the side of the road with my 4 year old son for 7 hrs. In those 4 days I have changed numerous parts, fixed wiring aand connections nd Im up to reinstalling my belt. Im a girl but I absolutely LOVE my Falcon (Used to be a Holden chick) and I want to learn as much about it as I can so I now know almost every inch of the bloody thing. I subscribed this morning because when you dropped that screw and went 'You xxxxx'...its exactly what I said 15 mins ago when I did the same..clearly my brother from another mother. Im glad I watched your headliner video aswell where the glue ended uptaking a week or so to dry because It saved me a week of same..the pool noodle to lift the bar too..used that...so many things I have learnt from watching your videos, extremely grateful and finally a subscriber :)
Thanks so much for the comment and the sub! I am glad you have found some of the videos helpful, sometimes jobs which seem daunting are actually not too bad once you find out how to do them, and it's pretty satisfying to fix things up yourself without having to pay huge money to your local mechanic! And like you say, you begin to learn every inch of the car and become more sensitive to any changes in the way it drives.
I remember my second car, a 1960 Ford Prefect, (yes showing my age here) I went to do the simple job of replacing the spark plugs. Unfortunately, I ended up having to pull the motor out and replace all the valves because I used the wrong spark plugs which were too long. The engine was a an old side valve job and because the plug reach was too long, as they were meant for the 105E OHV engine, all the valves hit the over long plugs and got bent. Taught me the hard way to properly read the fitting suitability list!
Was working on an 99 vt commodore I had with my dad. We were changing out the manual window mechanism for a better wrecker one. I turned my back for a couple seconds and realised my dad had accidentally forced a wrong bolt into one of the holes. He thought it was one of those bolts that partially threaded itself into the aluminium, it wasn't unfortunately. Spend the rest of the day making that bolt work. Now that my dad has sadly passed on, I love these memories of accidentally putting the wrong parts in and then fixing our mistakes, makes life so much more interesting.
Was replacing the engine mounts on a '99 Celica I used to own and whoever previously replaced the mount next to the timing case cross-threaded two of the bolts most likely with a rattle gun... thanks so much!
you might loose a lot of boost control with the larger dump pipe so be wary of boost spiking also getting the balancer off is a pretty straightforward job with the ford workshop crank puller tool so there’s no need to remove the radiator also another tip would be to put a bit of sealant along the keyway as oil likes to seep through just slightly good luck with the build
This week my BF ute had belt kit, water pump, harmonic balancer, oil seal and new steering box done. So glad I had my mechanic do it. I'll have to keep it much longer now.
The biggest pain of a job is always the one when you don't have the correct tools or don't take enough off to get room to do the job. Always remember to take off anything that give you more room, I just had a reminder of this doing valve covers on a AMG M156 in a CLK63, I didn't disconnect the loom that the connect the coil packs and goes across the valve covers on each side of the engine. One side (Right Hand bank) was fine, could move the loom enough to get the valve covers off, the other (Left hand side) was not so tight i could get it off alright with a bit of maneuvering but putting it back on was more difficult and I ended up with a pinched gasket that leaked, so it was off again and disconnect the loom (which I should have done in the first place when I had issues) and redo the gasket etc. So what was an hour or so job became and all day affair, with an extra trip to the local dealer for a new gasket - being doing this for 30 years you would think I would learn. As for AU vs BA in term of problems, I had both new and found the AU was better put together than the BA in general (as was the BA vs FG, with the BA being better that the FG if you ask me as I had that new as well) so I would not just put it down to Turbo vs NA - things just fell off in the BA in the first few months with the dash coming loose in the first week and it just got worse from there. Don't get me wrong, I loved my BA (once it was back together properly and I had it a lot longer the the AU) but AU was just put together better, and had better quality materials as well. Just my opinion though.
I have found that a piece of masonite cut to size and slotted against the radiator is far better protection than cardboard. Especially if you are going to remove the harmonic balancer
I did a head gasket replacement recently on my ba turbo and getting the balancer off wasn't to bad. Radiator out and and intercooler out so I could shift the ac condenser forward enough without releasing the gas to get a cordless impact driver onto the bolt and have room to get a puller onto it.
Went to replace the headlights on my BA Ute a while back as the seals had failed on mine, but the ute came with the plastic SmartBar bullbar which I've still got to get rid of. The bullbar itself mounts on using 4 bolts that thread into captive nuts inside of the bullbar. Well, meant to be captive - one of the captive nuts was spinning inside of the bullbar body, which meant I couldn't get the bullbar off to get to the headlights. One angle grinder and a lot of swearing later and I was throwing that bullbar across the front lawn at about 6pm - the headlights were a nice 10 minute job after that. On the plus side it was already dark out, so it was the best time to test out the new headlights!
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If you like to balance the tools there, get some cheap under carpet grip cover. It’s like a “sticky” (but not sticky) epdm or neoprene like foam. Good for opening jars too. Lay it over the sides and the front. Good poor mans guard covers. Then roll it up and store in a tube. Make a durable tube from 90mm storm water and two screw on end caps. All up the stuff and storage tube would be about $30.
Oh and the same stuff is really good in the tool box. Stops the tools sliding about when you open and close the draws. The usual foam in the draws protects them, but doesn’t hold them.
Here is an example. You’ll know what I mean when you see it www.bunnings.com.au/1200-x-450mm-black-colour-grip-mat_p2583495?store=2435&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI75fFhdvj8QIVATdgCh2IuQyTEAQYASABEgK5VfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Did this exact job last weekend. Off to pick up a new water pump and idler pulleys today for my FG. Water pump shat itself at 230,000 kms and 10 years.
Something else to watch out for on a BA BF and Territory SY SX as well. Ignition switch. 2 issues. The plastic back of the switch (which has all the wires) can fall off. It's only held onto the switch by some bent-over tabs. The tabs can work loose with time and use of the switch. And, inside the switch is a small cast tab, which can break off. The tab grabs the spring, which flicks the key back from the Start position to On. Replacing the switch with new is very expensive. Repair kits are available, but cost quite alot too. There are some videos on youtube, with suggested and cheap fixes. It's much easier to repair the switch on the bench. There are a couple of small springs and ball bearings inside. The ignition is press-fitted into the steering column. The top half of the column is fairly easy to remove. Disconnect battery. Steering wheel off. Three plugs on the steering column to disconnect (green, white and black), 4 bolts, and it releases from the wheel height adjuster. The column can be pulled from the steering shaft: no bolts or anything holding it on. I have a BA sedan (and FG ute). I was lucky: the ignition fell apart in my driveway!
2:20 mark 🤣😂🤣. We've all been there my friend! Lost a 10mm socket and found it 2 years later in the bash plate. I agree with the heat effecting things.... Let's face it.... If you own a turbo your going to fang it harder than a N/A. I Drive my BA like a granny. 175km and original diff bushes!
With the BA Falcons there was a recall problem where the headlights would get water in them. The fix was to throw away the forward facing bolt behind the grill, it caused a bit of flex in the headlight frame and can pry it open a bit. If you don't want to do that just find a washer to try and shim it so it's not flexing the headlights.
11:45 in the video you can see the outer ring of the balancer has moved off the inner ring. Easy job if you have the proper tool, although you may be a little pressed for room with the larger radiator. I did an underdrive balancer and pulleys when my balancer let go
Loving the content Sean, keep up the good work mate! Cars are fun to work on until they’re not😂 I once took on a simple valve stem seal change on my VL Turbo back in the day, and dropped a valve collet down one of the spark plug holes…I spent 3 days with magnets/mirrors/cameras etc looking for it, and when I couldn’t find it I started second guessing myself and was convinced it must have fallen to the ground. Put it all back together, started her up and tick, tick, tick, boom! Engine rebuild time…it was sitting on top of number 6 cylinder😳😂
Oh NO..I thought I was almost in same situation a few weeks ago when I was changing the PCV rubber and it started crumpling and falling into the valve cover..I was panicking so much, I didnt want to let go of it but I couldnt move to grab anything else to hold it...after 20 mins in tears wondering what one earth I was going to do I remembered the valve cover is only a cpl inches deep and I could easily grab it back out again if I dropped it.../facepalm. Worst nightmare I can honestly imagine the searching to find the droped collet..I have done the magnet and mirror 'thang' once before
Get a quarter inch drive set, the one from total tools comes with a screwdriver as well so great for hose clamps and other stuff. Probably the most used set I have.
Changing the rocker cover seals on my 1992 Holden Jackaroo 3.2L V6 was not a 10min job. To get the passenger side cover off I had to raise the back of the gearbox up to clear the heater pipes at the firewall. Then the driver's side I had to take the intake plenum off and remove the clutch master cylinder. Then I decided to clean all the crap out of the valley and the intake tubes down to the valves (I used a small grab claw holding small pieces of rag and brake clean). Cleaned the plenum out, put everything back in reverse order, bled the clutch, I had to change the intake gasket (I got ordered it with the rocker cover seals). It took about 10hrs mostly cause I cleaned the oil, dirt and bugs out of the valley, not easy to get to as the intake tubes and injectors were in the way.
I'm still bloody well at it mate, waiting for a new tailshaft and a new set of pulleys to install only just replaced every rubber bushings and mounts front and rear ,still love my 20 year old vx
I was looking for info on changing the idler and pulley and I found this vid of yours which I hadn't seen for some reason. I've bought another wagon for spares. It's got 435,000 k on it and it still runs quite well. This one has no rust whereas the old one was previously owned by a fisherman who must have just left it parked in the ocean all day while he was out fishing.😁 Jobs not going to plan? Yeah, changing the ball joints and finding I needed more tools than I had and so had to put it all back together a couple of times while waiting for the new tools to turn up.😣
I HAD SAME ISSUE WITH SKID CAR. I PUT IN A FULL ALLOY 2 CORE RADIATOR. AND FAN SHROUD WOULD HIT THE RAD FINS SO I GRABBED A GRINDER AND SHAVED THE THERMO SHROUD DOWN A FEW MM ON NOW IT FITS IN PERFECT
Yes on my 02 ba ghia was doing a simple oil change and filter and previous owner had stunp plug heil coiled it striped when was taking it off had to get bigger bolt after trying few factory options m16 bolt and tap it to suit and a washer no issues so far 😉 and on one my older cars was doing simple break pad change but caplor piston was stuffed
When I last replaced my belt and idler and tensioner pulleys, the aftermarket pulleys I got were all metal. Not sure if they are better than the original plastic ones, but they look nice. Keep an eye on your Thermo fans too. They work hard here in Brisbane. I'm on my third set. The bearings in the fan motors go, and, of course they are a sealed non-serviceable item. It comes as the whole unit: fans, blades and housing and pre-wired and fitted plug. Found a shop in Southport, which had the fan unit in stock both times, a couple of years apart. There was just the 160km drive to go get them, but needs must when your vehicle is off the road.
@@MotoringBoxTV fans wearing out might be due to mileage expiring. My fg mk2 has 545 000km on it now. What is good is that the fans are one of the easiest parts to replace. Ford has been wise with parts commonality too. The fan unit is the same from BA to FGX. 6 or V8.
On my 1991 Subaru I put on a new timing belt kit and a waterpump and of course there was a leak from that pump. It came thru a bolt that's go's in the engine block on the bottom and the tread was gone. So I drilled thru and made a nut that would fit, no problem with that nut but again a leak. Third time to take everything of and check that new pump of it was flat, made a new gasket and again a leak. Fourth time of and put a lot of sealant in the hole of that bolt, let it dry a bit and than screwed that bolt thru and put that nut on with a copper washer. Finally no leak, let it run hot, check no leak. Let it cool down again and checked next day cold, no leak, run hot again and did a long test drive. Now it's still good and check again tomorrow, it's three months so hope that it's OK.
I had the belt, balancer and tensioner replaced on my BA XR6T not long ago but it still makes an odd whiney noise. Maybe alternator or just one of those barra mysteries. A good way to test is slowly rev the engine and hold a few of the window down buttons down. If the whine gets quite a lot louder whilst you're revving it's probably the alternator.
Replacing two shift linkage bushings with nice solid aluminum ones, removing the old flogged rubber ones was easy but the aluminum ones were just a tad bit too small but my stubbornness meant that I forced it on and ended up buggering the aluminium bushings. Car left my house on a tow truck as you couldn't engage reverse, 2nd or 4th and getting 1st, 3rd or 5th gear was just guessing and praying that you were in gear.
I changed my alternator today and had a similar noise. It squeals so I’m going to change the tensioner pulley and a new belt and if it continues I’ll check the harmonic balancer
Same thing happened to me in my BA, in a different way though. I had it in for a service and they said I needed my drive belt replaced. I said don't worry about it, I'll do it myself. I bought a genuine belt, did it myself. Then came a whine. And I noticed the belt was wearing on the tensioner. I googled and most said it would be the balancer. I needed to get new tyres fitted to go to Adelaide in a few days. I asked the blokes at Bridgestone to have a look and they found it was indeed the harmonic balancer and they also said my tensioner needed replacement. I said go for it!! If only I had said in the original service to replace the belt, they may have picked up on the balancer then. Ah well, ya live and learn 😜
I'd say easiest way to take off the harmonic balancer is breaker bar, push it All the way until it touches the passenger side frame/body and do very short cranks, has worked for me and other people I know, just fold up a microfiber between the bar and body so it doesn't get scratched.
I changed my harmonic balancer while replacing the front crank seal. It started leaking at around 190,000km so check yours is ok. (Getting the old seal out is a challenge without damaging surrounding stuff, a seal puller worked ok to slowly ease it out) Immobilising the engine when undoing the harmonic balancer bolt is an issue (unless you remove everything in front and hit with a rattle gun). I made a tool that attaches to the spokes of the harmonic balancer to hold it stationary while undoing the bolt with a breaker bar. (Other method is to immobilise the flywheel. I was worried I'd damage it or the engine casting so went with holding the balancer)
The old balancer trying to escape trick. Been there too haha. You might want to make your own puller tool as they can cost around $200. Get 3 coach bolts and cheap universal puller for $20. Put bolts through puller and weld some "feet" on the bottom of the bolts to hook under balancer. Use puller as normal.
Really entertaining video. The more you do, the less you have left to do! This is a case of taking the good with the bad in owning this maintainance intensive model. I think you'll find that humming that sounds like a worn pulley, is just how these are. I have always noticed it with these since they came out. I quite like it. It adds to their uniqueness. I can confirm the AU was less troublesome in taxi use overall, except for the power steer pump leaks. Less powerful but more refined and less fuss. Also has that Falcon sound to it that the Barra lost a lot of. Very tenacious of you to get in there and tackle these tasks to make your car work better. I tend to leave it unless it's urgent. Where did you get the old Colonel Sanders head logo (introduced 1979 and replaced by new version in 1997) modified with the sunnies and cigar out his mouth? That is my favourite head logo.
I remember years ago trying to set timing and failed miserably! Turns out the harmonic balancer was rotating around the rubber material and shifting the timing lines!!! As for wearing gold when working on a car I have done it and nearly gloved my wedding ring finger! I could not wear a ring for 2-3years and my wife was not impressed! Maaate my BA has been a dream - apart from a new clutch I have not replaced anything and we are fast approaching 300000km! Burns no oil and is still very economical for the job it does pulling my trailer of mowing gear as my business car! The car is near worthless to sell so I will be driving it into the ground until I scrap it out or turn it into a bushbasher down on the family farm!
2004 bf falcon wanted to replace exhaust gaskets feel like its cause i rushed it and tried take the headers of without disconnecting the lower end snapped bolt of in head attempting the tape and dye myself was the worst decision was attempting to drill the bolt out seeing the green coolant piss out of that hole just continued with the tape and dye then used exhaust putty to seal the thread as well been a good 5 months coolant level has not dropped at all
Keep at it , you'll get there . Oh and never ever ever ever say wow this is an easy job , until it is finished and working properly . Those words tend to anger the car gods , and they can be a bitch !
One thing to mention about battery care is never hammer your terminals onto the battery stems. Doing so will break the cell seals internally and your battery will start leaking acid heaps bad and will kill the battery a lot faster. Always loosen the terminal enough so that it slides on nice and easy.
Changing the Diesel fuel filter on my Ford Ranger after changing it, tried to bleed the air using the little hand pump in the filter but no go. Then someone told me to use the air compressor in the tank which pushed the fuel to the filter and injectors, finally started
Ive got that annoying whine as well. Ive replaced the steering pump and alternator with a serpentine belt so I'm going to try the idler pulley. Do you think it was still your idler pulley that made the whine?
I changed out my standard harmonic balancer out only last weekend, replaced with power bond race balancer. Didn’t go the underdrive people say useless on turbo cars, and these cars don’t rev super hard and also have a large bore Stoke so you want to absorb as much harmonics as possible. Did front main seal whilst I had it off too. Didn’t go out and buy that overpriced puller either, just modified 2 jaw puller.
When I needed to change the spark plugs on my Golf R32, I bought a shiny new torque wrench. On the installation of the second plug, the torque wrench never clicked and I ended up snapping the plug in the head. Took us all day to get it out with a flat bladed screwdriver.
Yep that can happen, when you get a new torque wrench your need to put it on a high setting (exact setting in the manual) and load it up in a vice or similar situation till it clicks a few times before use on lower settings to bed it in so to speak check out the packaging for more information hope you have better luck next time cheers!
A couple years ago the gearbox on our 60's fb Holden blew, put in a whole new transmission and found out the slave cylinder went while trying to bleed the clutch.
My absolute corker of a job was changing my Spark plugs, the previous owner tighten them to the extreme, so ended up snapping the first one, and ended up getting NRMA to pull the rest of it out. Only changed one. Now I need to send it to a mechanic to loosen the rest of them but COVID happened.
Fyi, your harmonic balancer is rooted. The silver ring on the inside of the outer ring tells me its moved forwards. Replace it with a genuine ford one for longevity
I have an AU Falcon series 3. Would the replacement method be similar to this or way different? Have diagrams of how the belts meant to sit just wondering if the installation is similar
Totally agree , we have owned both au & bf3 in dedicated lpg wagon guise long term , there is just more crappy plastic junky bits on a b series compared to au , , including auto shift linkage , the shifter itself , the vinyl clad door spear inserts & shifter surround , the dash isn’t as robust & because we own live axle wagons we wont include the diff bushes & centre tail shaft bearing issues on b series sedans . Which is why I just bought another au2 wagon , still plenty of things to fix or get up to standard as I would say , but mainly due to neglect rather than being common problems .
So true Barbra . Ha yeah I’ve got 2 wagons au. Live axle is great. Ok maybe not great at driving at a 160 k but who does that. When friends want something moved, the falcon comes into it own. Heaps more room than any suv I’ve been in. Also owned a ute, same deal, simple and reliable. Have a great day. Falcon wagons rule .
@@michaelpatterson8799 looks like we are definately on the same page with the au wagons , just got keep em truckin’ along now , which isn’t hard if you do basic but religious servicing & a bit of rustproofing here & there . I am so determined to keep mine running due to a few reasons including what you mentioned about the size of the cargo area , efficiency & simplicity on dedicated lpg , rear wheel drive, inline drivetrain setup & for a car type 2 wheel drive , almost unmatched towing ability & ease . If you have any issue you can’t put your finger on , just let us know , we may be able to help , we have owned one au for 16 years & come up against a fair amount of issues in that time , many of which were caused by idiot mechanics , the latest of which was the new control arms we had put in , they snapped the air con pressure switch , simple fix you would think until I realised after spending $160 to replace it that the base idle increased & couldn’t figure out why , until an old timer mobile mechanic told us that the computer now needs rebooting by ford to fix it . We have had spark plugs put in that were too short & because this goose changed the vialle converter to some other piece of shit , so for 2 years had a dog of a car that lacked power & sucked way more gas until I had the converter changed back which involved soldering all the original electrical connectors back on with genuine spark plugs to put in , they rang me up & said the plugs were too long , I checked with ford , the plugs were correct , so for 2 years had plugs 15mm too short . Now I either do all work myself or if I can’t I at least manage the parts & how I want it done , that way we at least have some control over what gets done & how . I have even put magnets on the oil filter & a magnefine in-line filter on the power steering return hose , with 5000km oil changes , hoping to get 600000 plus Kay’s out of the engine ( domestic car that does short trips ) , currently 461000. Anyway rambled on long enough & given you enough of an earbashing I reckon , so any issue we can help or maybe you might have come across something we haven’t , just message . All the best , have a great day.
talking to my mechanic, when he was doing his apprenticeship, his boss was a right arsehole, always yelling at someone, he was trying to diagnose a turbo problem on a customers car, he couldn't figure it out, peter, said, your rag from your top pocket is missing, his boss discovered it inside the turbo, shredded to shit
Timing chains on my xr8, it's a technically simple job until I destroyed two harmonic balancer pulleys doing exactly as the ford book said, I got so pissed off I just payed a mechanic lots of money to do it I could tell instantly when I saw the metal lip on the dampener, also if you haven't changed the water pump pulley, I've cooked an engine because it decided to self yeet.
I am a lazy ass with cars mate and I am glad I went with the AU Fairmont Ghia S3 First. I eventually want a barra :D but looks like im up for a very expensive job with my mechanic if I ever buy one though.
Thats B & FG series- get smashed with a heap of shit to fix as soon as you get it, and then they are rock solid for years after that (besides the pulleys every 60k or so, and Falcons can be hard on batteries at times). Currently getting smashed with my FG MK2- have had to do coils, power steering pump & alternator, and now the clutch bearing has shat itself 🤦♂️
I just got the power steering pump replaced in my ute still has a slight whine in 12 months of ownership that’s probably the only thing I’ve had to repair
Are you saying the new pump is noisy ? , if so , is it a new Chinese pump or a reconditioned genuine ford unit ? , a genuine reconditioned pump from a reputable steer shop should not be noisy . The other issue can be if transmission fluid ( red ) has been used in the system , which can make the pump noisier & shorten the life of the pressure switch , the recommended Mobil 424 fluid is the only fluid that should be used , not widely available at parts stores but stocked at any 7 eleven .
Ha ha ha - never say something is easy until the job is done (not out load, not in front of people, and definitely not in front of a camera!). Doesn't matter if it is cars, bikes, or anything for that matter - something is always lurking in the shadows ready to bite you on the arse. Still, it provides content any DIYer can relate to - nice!
Got both here on my desk ready to go. It SHOULD be an easy job to finish this weekend, unless the car kicks me in the balls again for some other reason.
I personally think yes it is old cars yes but at least it also led u to find other things that saves nasty suprises later on love ur xr6 turbo manual and so far what i can hear it sounds not bad i actually don't mind sound of barra but do agree sohc intec sounds better especially cammed there lummpy
You can get a 10mm socket from Bunnings here: www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-10mm-3-8-square-drive-socket_p6110405 Or if you want the hex one, Amazon has plenty
Be prepared mate that you probably have lost power doing exhaust and intercooler as these rely on tuning after work done to actually have any effect on the car in a good way
Yup I am expecting that 👍 It will probably be okay because of the piggy-back tune on it, so it won't have boost cut or any typical problems. But I mainly want to drive it so I can hear what it sounds like!
My aus power steering was always shit so I got a new pump and changed it over but then my mate stripped the threads in it so I then had a car that can’t drive. long story short I put the old one on and turns out it needed a whole rack anyways 😭😭 $1200 later and she’s mint
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Sean after owning my '03 Holden VY series I S ute for 7 years, nothing last forever. It's an 18 year old ute & unless you do your checks every week, things will go wrong. Within the 7 years I've had my ute, I've replaced the radiator, water, power steering pump, pulleys, knock sensor, serviced the injectors, fuel rail, replaced the MAF sensor. Some people will be taken back with this work but it's worth it in the long run if we're to keep them on the road. Locally made cars, the majority of the parts are cheap when comparing to overseas made vehicles which still makes them viable.
In the end once the work is done, you'll have peace of mind.
You nailed it. The cost of work and parts on more modern cars can easily hurt you in ways only evil people and car companies can. Our cars are easy to fix and what we call expensive is cheap for more advanced vehicles.
I've had my falcon 1 and a half years and replaced the front upper and lower control arms, front shocks, steering rack, water pump, fuel filter, power steering pump, rear leaf spring bushings, alternator, gear shift linkage bushings, tie rods, head gasket, heat sensors, fuel sensors.... There's more but you get the point. Whoever owned this damned thing before me took absolutely no care..
My first car and I'm to deep to get out now 🤣 Next time i'll pay and have her looked over by a mechanic and myself will do a much more thorough inspection before purchasing.
Ive been watching your videos on and off since I got my XR6 8 months ago, I always forget to subscribe as I dont log into YT often. Im on my 4th day of being IN and UNDER my car since it went into limp mode and I needed 16 jumpstarts to get home, I was stuck on the side of the road with my 4 year old son for 7 hrs. In those 4 days I have changed numerous parts, fixed wiring aand connections nd Im up to reinstalling my belt. Im a girl but I absolutely LOVE my Falcon (Used to be a Holden chick) and I want to learn as much about it as I can so I now know almost every inch of the bloody thing. I subscribed this morning because when you dropped that screw and went 'You xxxxx'...its exactly what I said 15 mins ago when I did the same..clearly my brother from another mother. Im glad I watched your headliner video aswell where the glue ended uptaking a week or so to dry because It saved me a week of same..the pool noodle to lift the bar too..used that...so many things I have learnt from watching your videos, extremely grateful and finally a subscriber :)
Thanks so much for the comment and the sub! I am glad you have found some of the videos helpful, sometimes jobs which seem daunting are actually not too bad once you find out how to do them, and it's pretty satisfying to fix things up yourself without having to pay huge money to your local mechanic! And like you say, you begin to learn every inch of the car and become more sensitive to any changes in the way it drives.
I remember my second car, a 1960 Ford Prefect, (yes showing my age here) I went to do the simple job of replacing the spark plugs. Unfortunately, I ended up having to pull the motor out and replace all the valves because I used the wrong spark plugs which were too long. The engine was a an old side valve job and because the plug reach was too long, as they were meant for the 105E OHV engine, all the valves hit the over long plugs and got bent. Taught me the hard way to properly read the fitting suitability list!
Ouch, that would have been an expensive and time consuming mistake!
@@MotoringBoxTV Certainly was mate! Very expensive and time consuming.
I reckon he smashes a zinger box before every video always with the Pepsi max lol
There ya go, Motoring Box - proudly sponsored and fueled by KFC, Its finger licken good! 😛
😂
Don't underestimate the power of a supercharged bacon and cheese zinger burger
Motoring box meal deal
Zinger proudly resting on the office pack table in the AU, and always with bacon and cheese
Rule #1 of car mechanical, nothing is ever a quick job
10 mm socket, the elusive socket we always miss.
When I needed to change my valve cover gasket I spent more time looking for the 10mm socket than I did completing the entire job lol
Was working on an 99 vt commodore I had with my dad. We were changing out the manual window mechanism for a better wrecker one. I turned my back for a couple seconds and realised my dad had accidentally forced a wrong bolt into one of the holes. He thought it was one of those bolts that partially threaded itself into the aluminium, it wasn't unfortunately. Spend the rest of the day making that bolt work. Now that my dad has sadly passed on, I love these memories of accidentally putting the wrong parts in and then fixing our mistakes, makes life so much more interesting.
Yup, that job probably wouldn't have been memorable otherwise. I hope you're doing well mate.
@@MotoringBoxTV Yep, you're probably right. I am doing better now. Thanks for the heart, I'd give one too, but I'd be dead, since I only have one.
Was replacing the engine mounts on a '99 Celica I used to own and whoever previously replaced the mount next to the timing case cross-threaded two of the bolts most likely with a rattle gun... thanks so much!
you might loose a lot of boost control with the larger dump pipe so be wary of boost spiking also getting the balancer off is a pretty straightforward job with the ford workshop crank puller tool so there’s no need to remove the radiator also another tip would be to put a bit of sealant along the keyway as oil likes to seep through just slightly good luck with the build
This week my BF ute had belt kit, water pump, harmonic balancer, oil seal and new steering box done. So glad I had my mechanic do it. I'll have to keep it much longer now.
The biggest pain of a job is always the one when you don't have the correct tools or don't take enough off to get room to do the job. Always remember to take off anything that give you more room, I just had a reminder of this doing valve covers on a AMG M156 in a CLK63, I didn't disconnect the loom that the connect the coil packs and goes across the valve covers on each side of the engine. One side (Right Hand bank) was fine, could move the loom enough to get the valve covers off, the other (Left hand side) was not so tight i could get it off alright with a bit of maneuvering but putting it back on was more difficult and I ended up with a pinched gasket that leaked, so it was off again and disconnect the loom (which I should have done in the first place when I had issues) and redo the gasket etc. So what was an hour or so job became and all day affair, with an extra trip to the local dealer for a new gasket - being doing this for 30 years you would think I would learn.
As for AU vs BA in term of problems, I had both new and found the AU was better put together than the BA in general (as was the BA vs FG, with the BA being better that the FG if you ask me as I had that new as well) so I would not just put it down to Turbo vs NA - things just fell off in the BA in the first few months with the dash coming loose in the first week and it just got worse from there. Don't get me wrong, I loved my BA (once it was back together properly and I had it a lot longer the the AU) but AU was just put together better, and had better quality materials as well. Just my opinion though.
I have found that a piece of masonite cut to size and slotted against the radiator is far better protection than cardboard. Especially if you are going to remove the harmonic balancer
I did a head gasket replacement recently on my ba turbo and getting the balancer off wasn't to bad. Radiator out and and intercooler out so I could shift the ac condenser forward enough without releasing the gas to get a cordless impact driver onto the bolt and have room to get a puller onto it.
Went to replace the headlights on my BA Ute a while back as the seals had failed on mine, but the ute came with the plastic SmartBar bullbar which I've still got to get rid of. The bullbar itself mounts on using 4 bolts that thread into captive nuts inside of the bullbar. Well, meant to be captive - one of the captive nuts was spinning inside of the bullbar body, which meant I couldn't get the bullbar off to get to the headlights.
One angle grinder and a lot of swearing later and I was throwing that bullbar across the front lawn at about 6pm - the headlights were a nice 10 minute job after that. On the plus side it was already dark out, so it was the best time to test out the new headlights!
Don't forget there's now a MotoringBox fans Facebook Group. Feel free to join and share your stories and thoughts about MotoringBox and Aussie built cars! Link to the Group below:
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I replaced the serpentine belt and top idler pulley (for the 2nd time in
If you like to balance the tools there, get some cheap under carpet grip cover. It’s like a “sticky” (but not sticky) epdm or neoprene like foam. Good for opening jars too. Lay it over the sides and the front. Good poor mans guard covers. Then roll it up and store in a tube. Make a durable tube from 90mm storm water and two screw on end caps. All up the stuff and storage tube would be about $30.
Oh and the same stuff is really good in the tool box. Stops the tools sliding about when you open and close the draws. The usual foam in the draws protects them, but doesn’t hold them.
Here is an example. You’ll know what I mean when you see it www.bunnings.com.au/1200-x-450mm-black-colour-grip-mat_p2583495?store=2435&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI75fFhdvj8QIVATdgCh2IuQyTEAQYASABEgK5VfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Did this exact job last weekend. Off to pick up a new water pump and idler pulleys today for my FG. Water pump shat itself at 230,000 kms and 10 years.
Its getting better and better!
Something else to watch out for on a BA BF and Territory SY SX as well. Ignition switch. 2 issues. The plastic back of the switch (which has all the wires) can fall off. It's only held onto the switch by some bent-over tabs. The tabs can work loose with time and use of the switch. And, inside the switch is a small cast tab, which can break off. The tab grabs the spring, which flicks the key back from the Start position to On. Replacing the switch with new is very expensive. Repair kits are available, but cost quite alot too. There are some videos on youtube, with suggested and cheap fixes. It's much easier to repair the switch on the bench. There are a couple of small springs and ball bearings inside. The ignition is press-fitted into the steering column. The top half of the column is fairly easy to remove. Disconnect battery. Steering wheel off. Three plugs on the steering column to disconnect (green, white and black), 4 bolts, and it releases from the wheel height adjuster. The column can be pulled from the steering shaft: no bolts or anything holding it on. I have a BA sedan (and FG ute). I was lucky: the ignition fell apart in my driveway!
Good well explained and videod Shaun I like your approach to getting the work done
Tony
2:20 mark 🤣😂🤣. We've all been there my friend! Lost a 10mm socket and found it 2 years later in the bash plate.
I agree with the heat effecting things.... Let's face it.... If you own a turbo your going to fang it harder than a N/A.
I Drive my BA like a granny. 175km and original diff bushes!
Great segment and great observations
With the BA Falcons there was a recall problem where the headlights would get water in them. The fix was to throw away the forward facing bolt behind the grill, it caused a bit of flex in the headlight frame and can pry it open a bit. If you don't want to do that just find a washer to try and shim it so it's not flexing the headlights.
11:45 in the video you can see the outer ring of the balancer has moved off the inner ring. Easy job if you have the proper tool, although you may be a little pressed for room with the larger radiator. I did an underdrive balancer and pulleys when my balancer let go
Guaranteed it'll be a fun job
@@MotoringBoxTV I've got the correct balancer removal tool here, happy to send it your way for a loan if you need it
Appreciate the offer mate! But I have one sitting on my desk, it arrived today 👍
Things sometimes don't go to plan. On the bright side, something more to tinker with later on. :-)
Loving the content Sean, keep up the good work mate! Cars are fun to work on until they’re not😂 I once took on a simple valve stem seal change on my VL Turbo back in the day, and dropped a valve collet down one of the spark plug holes…I spent 3 days with magnets/mirrors/cameras etc looking for it, and when I couldn’t find it I started second guessing myself and was convinced it must have fallen to the ground. Put it all back together, started her up and tick, tick, tick, boom! Engine rebuild time…it was sitting on top of number 6 cylinder😳😂
Oh NO..I thought I was almost in same situation a few weeks ago when I was changing the PCV rubber and it started crumpling and falling into the valve cover..I was panicking so much, I didnt want to let go of it but I couldnt move to grab anything else to hold it...after 20 mins in tears wondering what one earth I was going to do I remembered the valve cover is only a cpl inches deep and I could easily grab it back out again if I dropped it.../facepalm. Worst nightmare I can honestly imagine the searching to find the droped collet..I have done the magnet and mirror 'thang' once before
Get a quarter inch drive set, the one from total tools comes with a screwdriver as well so great for hose clamps and other stuff. Probably the most used set I have.
Changing the rocker cover seals on my 1992 Holden Jackaroo 3.2L V6 was not a 10min job. To get the passenger side cover off I had to raise the back of the gearbox up to clear the heater pipes at the firewall. Then the driver's side I had to take the intake plenum off and remove the clutch master cylinder. Then I decided to clean all the crap out of the valley and the intake tubes down to the valves (I used a small grab claw holding small pieces of rag and brake clean). Cleaned the plenum out, put everything back in reverse order, bled the clutch, I had to change the intake gasket (I got ordered it with the rocker cover seals). It took about 10hrs mostly cause I cleaned the oil, dirt and bugs out of the valley, not easy to get to as the intake tubes and injectors were in the way.
I'm still bloody well at it mate, waiting for a new tailshaft and a new set of pulleys to install only just replaced every rubber bushings and mounts front and rear ,still love my 20 year old vx
I was looking for info on changing the idler and pulley and I found this vid of yours which I hadn't seen for some reason.
I've bought another wagon for spares. It's got 435,000 k on it and it still runs quite well. This one has no rust whereas the old one was previously owned by a fisherman who must have just left it parked in the ocean all day while he was out fishing.😁
Jobs not going to plan? Yeah, changing the ball joints and finding I needed more tools than I had and so had to put it all back together a couple of times while waiting for the new tools to turn up.😣
I HAD SAME ISSUE WITH SKID CAR. I PUT IN A FULL ALLOY 2 CORE RADIATOR. AND FAN SHROUD WOULD HIT THE RAD FINS SO I GRABBED A GRINDER AND SHAVED THE THERMO SHROUD DOWN A FEW MM ON NOW IT FITS IN PERFECT
Yes on my 02 ba ghia was doing a simple oil change and filter and previous owner had stunp plug heil coiled it striped when was taking it off had to get bigger bolt after trying few factory options m16 bolt and tap it to suit and a washer no issues so far 😉 and on one my older cars was doing simple break pad change but caplor piston was stuffed
lovely sound!
When I last replaced my belt and idler and tensioner pulleys, the aftermarket pulleys I got were all metal. Not sure if they are better than the original plastic ones, but they look nice. Keep an eye on your Thermo fans too. They work hard here in Brisbane. I'm on my third set. The bearings in the fan motors go, and, of course they are a sealed non-serviceable item. It comes as the whole unit: fans, blades and housing and pre-wired and fitted plug. Found a shop in Southport, which had the fan unit in stock both times, a couple of years apart. There was just the 160km drive to go get them, but needs must when your vehicle is off the road.
Wow, sounds like you've had a bad run! I've never had thermos fail on a Falcon before. Touch wood.
@@MotoringBoxTV fans wearing out might be due to mileage expiring. My fg mk2 has 545 000km on it now. What is good is that the fans are one of the easiest parts to replace. Ford has been wise with parts commonality too. The fan unit is the same from BA to FGX. 6 or V8.
On my 1991 Subaru I put on a new timing belt kit and a waterpump and of course there was a leak from that pump. It came thru a bolt that's go's in the engine block on the bottom and the tread was gone. So I drilled thru and made a nut that would fit, no problem with that nut but again a leak. Third time to take everything of and check that new pump of it was flat, made a new gasket and again a leak. Fourth time of and put a lot of sealant in the hole of that bolt, let it dry a bit and than screwed that bolt thru and put that nut on with a copper washer. Finally no leak, let it run hot, check no leak. Let it cool down again and checked next day cold, no leak, run hot again and did a long test drive. Now it's still good and check again tomorrow, it's three months so hope that it's OK.
Oh put in a new radiator as well, that was the cheapest item here in Belgium.
I had the belt, balancer and tensioner replaced on my BA XR6T not long ago but it still makes an odd whiney noise. Maybe alternator or just one of those barra mysteries. A good way to test is slowly rev the engine and hold a few of the window down buttons down. If the whine gets quite a lot louder whilst you're revving it's probably the alternator.
Replacing two shift linkage bushings with nice solid aluminum ones, removing the old flogged rubber ones was easy but the aluminum ones were just a tad bit too small but my stubbornness meant that I forced it on and ended up buggering the aluminium bushings. Car left my house on a tow truck as you couldn't engage reverse, 2nd or 4th and getting 1st, 3rd or 5th gear was just guessing and praying that you were in gear.
I changed my alternator today and had a similar noise. It squeals so I’m going to change the tensioner pulley and a new belt and if it continues I’ll check the harmonic balancer
Another awesome video mate
Same thing happened to me in my BA, in a different way though. I had it in for a service and they said I needed my drive belt replaced. I said don't worry about it, I'll do it myself. I bought a genuine belt, did it myself. Then came a whine. And I noticed the belt was wearing on the tensioner. I googled and most said it would be the balancer. I needed to get new tyres fitted to go to Adelaide in a few days. I asked the blokes at Bridgestone to have a look and they found it was indeed the harmonic balancer and they also said my tensioner needed replacement. I said go for it!! If only I had said in the original service to replace the belt, they may have picked up on the balancer then. Ah well, ya live and learn 😜
Can't wait to hear her pur 👌
I'd say easiest way to take off the harmonic balancer is breaker bar, push it All the way until it touches the passenger side frame/body and do very short cranks, has worked for me and other people I know, just fold up a microfiber between the bar and body so it doesn't get scratched.
Awesome. I'm about to publish my easy BA bump stop replacement...tis the season to work on cars😁😄
I changed my harmonic balancer while replacing the front crank seal. It started leaking at around 190,000km so check yours is ok. (Getting the old seal out is a challenge without damaging surrounding stuff, a seal puller worked ok to slowly ease it out)
Immobilising the engine when undoing the harmonic balancer bolt is an issue (unless you remove everything in front and hit with a rattle gun). I made a tool that attaches to the spokes of the harmonic balancer to hold it stationary while undoing the bolt with a breaker bar. (Other method is to immobilise the flywheel. I was worried I'd damage it or the engine casting so went with holding the balancer)
The old balancer trying to escape trick. Been there too haha. You might want to make your own puller tool as they can cost around $200. Get 3 coach bolts and cheap universal puller for $20. Put bolts through puller and weld some "feet" on the bottom of the bolts to hook under balancer. Use puller as normal.
I decided to buy one. I figured I'll be around Falcons enough where I'll need it again 😀
Love these videos and the rooster sound affect ahah
Really entertaining video. The more you do, the less you have left to do!
This is a case of taking the good with the bad in owning this maintainance intensive model.
I think you'll find that humming that sounds like a worn pulley, is just how these are. I have always noticed it with these since they came out. I quite like it. It adds to their uniqueness.
I can confirm the AU was less troublesome in taxi use overall, except for the power steer pump leaks. Less powerful but more refined and less fuss. Also has that Falcon sound to it that the Barra lost a lot of.
Very tenacious of you to get in there and tackle these tasks to make your car work better. I tend to leave it unless it's urgent.
Where did you get the old Colonel Sanders head logo (introduced 1979 and replaced by new version in 1997) modified with the sunnies and cigar out his mouth? That is my favourite head logo.
I bought a Haynes workshop manual for 40 bucks off ebay.
Good investment that
I remember years ago trying to set timing and failed miserably! Turns out the harmonic balancer was rotating around the rubber material and shifting the timing lines!!!
As for wearing gold when working on a car I have done it and nearly gloved my wedding ring finger! I could not wear a ring for 2-3years and my wife was not impressed!
Maaate my BA has been a dream - apart from a new clutch I have not replaced anything and we are fast approaching 300000km! Burns no oil and is still very economical for the job it does pulling my trailer of mowing gear as my business car! The car is near worthless to sell so I will be driving it into the ground until I scrap it out or turn it into a bushbasher down on the family farm!
2004 bf falcon wanted to replace exhaust gaskets feel like its cause i rushed it and tried take the headers of without disconnecting the lower end snapped bolt of in head attempting the tape and dye myself was the worst decision was attempting to drill the bolt out seeing the green coolant piss out of that hole just continued with the tape and dye then used exhaust putty to seal the thread as well been a good 5 months coolant level has not dropped at all
Keep at it , you'll get there . Oh and never ever ever ever say wow this is an easy job , until it is finished and working properly . Those words tend to anger the car gods , and they can be a bitch !
Never ever use the E word
Ever
One thing to mention about battery care is never hammer your terminals onto the battery stems. Doing so will break the cell seals internally and your battery will start leaking acid heaps bad and will kill the battery a lot faster.
Always loosen the terminal enough so that it slides on nice and easy.
Good tips!
Changing the Diesel fuel filter on my Ford Ranger after changing it, tried to bleed the air using the little hand pump in the filter but no go. Then someone told me to use the air compressor in the tank which pushed the fuel to the filter and injectors, finally started
Ive got that annoying whine as well. Ive replaced the steering pump and alternator with a serpentine belt so I'm going to try the idler pulley. Do you think it was still your idler pulley that made the whine?
Radiator out and puller tool and you'll be sweet bro
Worth swapping as many of the plastic pulleys out for steel ones, as you can too👍
Time for a Yaris!
I changed out my standard harmonic balancer out only last weekend, replaced with power bond race balancer. Didn’t go the underdrive people say useless on turbo cars, and these cars don’t rev super hard and also have a large bore Stoke so you want to absorb as much harmonics as possible.
Did front main seal whilst I had it off too.
Didn’t go out and buy that overpriced puller either, just modified 2 jaw puller.
I had to replace the harmonic balancer on my AU GHIA not too long ago.
When I needed to change the spark plugs on my Golf R32, I bought a shiny new torque wrench. On the installation of the second plug, the torque wrench never clicked and I ended up snapping the plug in the head. Took us all day to get it out with a flat bladed screwdriver.
Yep that can happen, when you get a new torque wrench your need to put it on a high setting (exact setting in the manual) and load it up in a vice or similar situation till it clicks a few times before use on lower settings to bed it in so to speak check out the packaging for more information hope you have better luck next time cheers!
I have a barra patrolled apparently the flywheel bolts can come loose easily, I wonder if that has anything to do with the harmonic balancer.
A couple years ago the gearbox on our 60's fb Holden blew, put in a whole new transmission and found out the slave cylinder went while trying to bleed the clutch.
My absolute corker of a job was changing my Spark plugs, the previous owner tighten them to the extreme, so ended up snapping the first one, and ended up getting NRMA to pull the rest of it out. Only changed one. Now I need to send it to a mechanic to loosen the rest of them but COVID happened.
Fyi, your harmonic balancer is rooted. The silver ring on the inside of the outer ring tells me its moved forwards. Replace it with a genuine ford one for longevity
I have an AU Falcon series 3. Would the replacement method be similar to this or way different? Have diagrams of how the belts meant to sit just wondering if the installation is similar
Pretty much the same!
Call me old fashioned, but I reckon the au is the most reliable falcon. Have a great day.
Totally agree , we have owned both au & bf3 in dedicated lpg wagon guise long term , there is just more crappy plastic junky bits on a b series compared to au , , including auto shift linkage , the shifter itself , the vinyl clad door spear inserts & shifter surround , the dash isn’t as robust & because we own live axle wagons we wont include the diff bushes & centre tail shaft bearing issues on b series sedans . Which is why I just bought another au2 wagon , still plenty of things to fix or get up to standard as I would say , but mainly due to neglect rather than being common problems .
So true Barbra . Ha yeah I’ve got 2 wagons au. Live axle is great. Ok maybe not great at driving at a 160 k but who does that. When friends want something moved, the falcon comes into it own. Heaps more room than any suv I’ve been in. Also owned a ute, same deal, simple and reliable. Have a great day. Falcon wagons rule .
@@michaelpatterson8799 looks like we are definately on the same page with the au wagons , just got keep em truckin’ along now , which isn’t hard if you do basic but religious servicing & a bit of rustproofing here & there . I am so determined to keep mine running due to a few reasons including what you mentioned about the size of the cargo area , efficiency & simplicity on dedicated lpg , rear wheel drive, inline drivetrain setup & for a car type 2 wheel drive , almost unmatched towing ability & ease . If you have any issue you can’t put your finger on , just let us know , we may be able to help , we have owned one au for 16 years & come up against a fair amount of issues in that time , many of which were caused by idiot mechanics , the latest of which was the new control arms we had put in , they snapped the air con pressure switch , simple fix you would think until I realised after spending $160 to replace it that the base idle increased & couldn’t figure out why , until an old timer mobile mechanic told us that the computer now needs rebooting by ford to fix it . We have had spark plugs put in that were too short & because this goose changed the vialle converter to some other piece of shit , so for 2 years had a dog of a car that lacked power & sucked way more gas until I had the converter changed back which involved soldering all the original electrical connectors back on with genuine spark plugs to put in , they rang me up & said the plugs were too long , I checked with ford , the plugs were correct , so for 2 years had plugs 15mm too short . Now I either do all work myself or if I can’t I at least manage the parts & how I want it done , that way we at least have some control over what gets done & how . I have even put magnets on the oil filter & a magnefine in-line filter on the power steering return hose , with 5000km oil changes , hoping to get 600000 plus Kay’s out of the engine ( domestic car that does short trips ) , currently 461000. Anyway rambled on long enough & given you enough of an earbashing I reckon , so any issue we can help or maybe you might have come across something we haven’t , just message . All the best , have a great day.
Pepsi, Coke are used as floor cleaner. Rust inhibitors is no surprise.
Gonna be at the all ford day on sunday?
talking to my mechanic, when he was doing his apprenticeship, his boss was a right arsehole, always yelling at someone, he was trying to diagnose a turbo problem on a customers car, he couldn't figure it out, peter, said, your rag from your top pocket is missing, his boss discovered it inside the turbo, shredded to shit
Timing chains on my xr8, it's a technically simple job until I destroyed two harmonic balancer pulleys doing exactly as the ford book said, I got so pissed off I just payed a mechanic lots of money to do it
I could tell instantly when I saw the metal lip on the dampener, also if you haven't changed the water pump pulley, I've cooked an engine because it decided to self yeet.
I am a lazy ass with cars mate and I am glad I went with the AU Fairmont Ghia S3 First. I eventually want a barra :D but looks like im up for a very expensive job with my mechanic if I ever buy one though.
I done the exact same job a few weeks back went smoothly but the belt is running abit offset on the tensioner wheel 😅 oh well
Thats B & FG series- get smashed with a heap of shit to fix as soon as you get it, and then they are rock solid for years after that (besides the pulleys every 60k or so, and Falcons can be hard on batteries at times).
Currently getting smashed with my FG MK2- have had to do coils, power steering pump & alternator, and now the clutch bearing has shat itself 🤦♂️
I just got the power steering pump replaced in my ute still has a slight whine in 12 months of ownership that’s probably the only thing I’ve had to repair
Are you saying the new pump is noisy ? , if so , is it a new Chinese pump or a reconditioned genuine ford unit ? , a genuine reconditioned pump from a reputable steer shop should not be noisy . The other issue can be if transmission fluid ( red ) has been used in the system , which can make the pump noisier & shorten the life of the pressure switch , the recommended Mobil 424 fluid is the only fluid that should be used , not widely available at parts stores but stocked at any 7 eleven .
I always thought the AU was gonna be your baby. I see now you have a new addiction.🙂
Oh it still is. It's just way more self-sufficient and easy going.
@@MotoringBoxTV That's a good thing!
Ha ha ha - never say something is easy until the job is done (not out load, not in front of people, and definitely not in front of a camera!). Doesn't matter if it is cars, bikes, or anything for that matter - something is always lurking in the shadows ready to bite you on the arse.
Still, it provides content any DIYer can relate to - nice!
Don't forget tp get a Harmonic Balancer Puller when you get the balancer
Got both here on my desk ready to go. It SHOULD be an easy job to finish this weekend, unless the car kicks me in the balls again for some other reason.
May there be much harmony and balance when you return for the next job.
its an easy job done heaps along with timing cover
it needs a power three core radiator to cool the turbo as its close to the manifold a dumb place for turbos
I personally think yes it is old cars yes but at least it also led u to find other things that saves nasty suprises later on love ur xr6 turbo manual and so far what i can hear it sounds not bad i actually don't mind sound of barra but do agree sohc intec sounds better especially cammed there lummpy
You can get a 10mm socket from Bunnings here: www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-10mm-3-8-square-drive-socket_p6110405
Or if you want the hex one, Amazon has plenty
Nice - I'll definitely go grab a few of them.
Everytime I watch a Motoring Box vid, I have a hungering for a KFC meal.... And it's midnight now....
Be prepared mate that you probably have lost power doing exhaust and intercooler as these rely on tuning after work done to actually have any effect on the car in a good way
Yup I am expecting that 👍 It will probably be okay because of the piggy-back tune on it, so it won't have boost cut or any typical problems. But I mainly want to drive it so I can hear what it sounds like!
And you're not wrong on reliability never had problems with my au but have had a few with my territory including a fire
A fire? 😮 where from?
Alternator make sure its not covered in oil my man. And ball joint failure too
So 12 parsecs faster, with a 0.5 hyper drive then?
The words make the job sound like the job is as good as what a bear does in a wood.
My aus power steering was always shit so I got a new pump and changed it over but then my mate stripped the threads in it so I then had a car that can’t drive. long story short I put the old one on and turns out it needed a whole rack anyways 😭😭 $1200 later and she’s mint
Why didn't you replace bottom pulley ??
There is no bottom pulley, just the harmonic balancer. I had to order one and replaced it in the next video.
You think that thing is figthing you. I owned a 1970's Jaguar and survived the torment and anguish that comes with that particular form of torture.
My au fairlane has a similar whine at the front of the engine. Just been ignoring it and calling it my superharger whine haha.
Good preventative maintenance. No one wants to lunch an engine.
Time for a 25% underdrive harmonic balancer👍
Pepsi ugh, DRINK WATER!
It's like 99% water 😂
Okay after watching more looks like im up for a harmonic balancer myself 😳
I let my mate change my rear tyres at the skid pad and he tightened them and snapped 2 studs
Loving the channel mate! You really need a sponsorship from KFC though.
I attempted to install a manifold insulator on my old VX Commodore , what a head f^&*
Made me want to pay a mechanic 😂
I’m surprised my au is older then that car and doesn’t have any whining noises
Or I can’t remember