Proto G AWESOME tip!!!! I have never watched any video talking about or showing the differences between Type 3, 4, 5... great work mate!!! Ohhh yeaaahhh =]
Can't seem to find those at any sort of reasonable price here in EU and don't wanna order from US because of the costly shipping-fees and customs and all that bullshit :/ Spent a while browsing eBay and the likes, but all I find is type 3, unless I order from US... If anyone finds type 5 at a good price in the EU or China, now would be a good time to mention it!
In general, it's better to use type 3 unless you have fine pitch. Type 5 is more prone to oxidation causing solder balls and voiding, because of the higher surface area to volume ratio. That also causes it to have a shorter shelf life. If i remember right, it is also more prone to tombstoning.
@@thingshappen9199 stored in the fridge, unopened, it still should be good enough for hobby electronics. If the metal happens to be oxidized enough to be bad, it's a goner; adding flux will change the metal loading and the viscosity too much--I wouldn't recommend it
What are those ring things holding your solder sucker and various snippers/pliers @ 4:08-4:10? They seem to hang from regular wire shelving? I *REALLY* need to know where/how you got those, please!
Great info! I never knew there were different types - don't use much solder paste, but I have had problems with it in the past. Next time I'll definitely look for some type 5. And I agree about leaded solder, it's so much nicer to work with.
Thank you! This is the hot air station I use and I love it: amzn.to/2Kmo4gB If don't want to start with the best you can get by with one like this just fine: amzn.to/2MF2a53
Or if you want to go REALLY cheap, you can get decent results from one of these: a.co/9lBtYJJ I picked one up from the local Goodwill for $5, works great for desoldering and SMD rework... Just have to be careful not to overheat your work.
I got the cheapest Atten 8858 style like PG's 2nd link but the one that uses the laptop power brick type supply. I think I paid ~$35 with all the extra round junk tips and all. After using mine for awhile definitely spend the extra few bucks for the one like the link. The laptop power brick with cords on both ends is just a pain to handle on the bench. If you have the bench space get a unit with the complete bench enclosure/interface. I'm looking to hack mine into some kind of bench enclosure now. Also it's probably a good idea to go ahead and get a couple cheap square tips. That's the nice thing about the atten style guns, the tips are cheap and fairly prolific. You'll find a wide variety of PLCC specific and larger TQFP sizes cheap if you shop around. I got a pair of square tips in ~14mm and ~20mm IIRC for less than $5. -Jake
Thank you very much for the video. I was confuse which paste should I buy to solder some chip 8 legs. After watching this video, now I know what to do. Thank you! 5 stars, Liked and Subscribed.
I didn't even know there were different types! That might explain why I have some trouble with fine-pitch ICs! Well, looks like I'll be looking for some type 5 and trying again. Thanks for the tip!!
Nice informative video . Told me all I wanted to know! But. . .what is it with you guys and the metric system? A micrometer (or micrometre)is the tool that looks like a small G clamp and is used for accurate measurement. A µm on the other hand is a micron! :) Anyway, good work and thanks again!
I was going to make a joke about the mechanic solder paste. Then I looked at the one in the fridge and realized it marked as 25-45um, so I guess it’s type 3. I never realized that, I bought it to test it against more expensive solder paste I use, and I use the same type 3 from SRA solder also. Now I’m really going to have to take a close look under the microscope to see if this cheap paste is really 25-45um.Maybe I should get some SRA T3 and compare that to the mechanic paste?
Do it, that would be a great video! Maybe you could microscope slide with a micrometer grid to compare them. I'm assuming you meant you use the same type 5 paste from SRA that I do?
impressive captures of the flow process... good work.btw can you DIY with some decent flux and solder balls as that give you way more control over these variables..?
I had some old dried up solder paste that I thinned with flux. It actually worked quite well but I did end up with more "stray balls" around the board.
I looked it up, Its just a long luer lock needle with a safety cap, it seems you have to buy a large quality to get them, I do not see safety caps for sale. I thought it would be nice to have a cap on the tips, and long blunt tip needles.
Thank you, I'm using a gimbal in some of the shots but not all. I like to film handheld so I've been trying to use a gimbal more but I still don't have very steady hands.
Anyone tried the XG-Z40 stuff. It looks to be Type 3, at $2.84 on AliEx for 10cc, I think that's my first stop unless someone can convince this miser otherwise. -Jake
It is Type 3. Just don't use it with components smaller than 0402 and you should be fine. It doesn't work well for the 32-PIN SOICW chip in the video with a 0.65mm pitch.
Those are some awesome shots of the paste melting, but the way you applied the solder paste makes me wonder why you even bother with a stencil at all. The stuff is all over the place. Watch a few videos about screen printing and do what they are doing: Apply a small amount of paste north of all the holes in your stencil, never put it directly on the holes! Then squeegee it over the holes *once*. Not twice, once. Then it's only a matter of lifting the stencil as vertically as possible, so you don't smear the applied paste. The squeegee-step and the stencil lifting might need some practice, but when you got it down you can achieve industrial looking results with no problems at all.
True what he says about lead based, but do not use it 'just because'. I'm not one of those environmental experts but it seriously has a really bad effect on the environment. Try and use lead free, it's not that hard
As long as it's a hobby project, do yourself a favor and use lead based solder. The fumes are even worse for your personal health with lead free solder. The heat needed for most lead free solder results in more toxic fumes for you to potentially breathe in. My projects do not end up in the landfill so I don't see an issue with using lead based solder. If I were making a project that is getting assembled by an assembly house, I would definitely opt for ROHS compliant materials. Direct quote - "Research has shown that the fumes and vapours emanating from lead-free solders may be more dangerous to workers and to the environment than those emitted by traditional lead containing solders. A study by the Danish Toxicology Centre assessed both the toxicity of lead and the metals used in lead-free alloys. While lead was highly toxic to humans, silver, a standard constituent of lead-free alloys, was found to be several orders of magnitude more eco-toxic than lead. In addition, some of the other metals used in lead-free alloys were shown to have uncertain toxicological results. "
@@ProtoG42 Apparently, the melting point of leaded Sn63Pb37 solder is 183C and the melting point of Sn42Bi58 is only 138C. So it sounds if you go with non-leaded not only do you avoid lead pollution / poisoning but you also get a paste that's easier to work with, no? I'm just asking, I have no experience here.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Roc Steady (feat. Flo Milli) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HozPPyqW0dY/mqdefault.jpg)
Solder Paste Used in Video:
Type 5: amzn.to/2MDLpqF
Type 3: amzn.to/2MDLrih
Proto G
AWESOME tip!!!! I have never watched any video talking about or showing the differences between Type 3, 4, 5... great work mate!!! Ohhh yeaaahhh =]
Can't seem to find those at any sort of reasonable price here in EU and don't wanna order from US because of the costly shipping-fees and customs and all that bullshit :/ Spent a while browsing eBay and the likes, but all I find is type 3, unless I order from US...
If anyone finds type 5 at a good price in the EU or China, now would be a good time to mention it!
Can by type 5 in shoper
In general, it's better to use type 3 unless you have fine pitch. Type 5 is more prone to oxidation causing solder balls and voiding, because of the higher surface area to volume ratio. That also causes it to have a shorter shelf life. If i remember right, it is also more prone to tombstoning.
Ive had paste store in the4 refrigerator without opening for a year. Would it still work if i use additional flux?
@@thingshappen9199 stored in the fridge, unopened, it still should be good enough for hobby electronics. If the metal happens to be oxidized enough to be bad, it's a goner; adding flux will change the metal loading and the viscosity too much--I wouldn't recommend it
Incredible amount of useful information in less than 5 minutes. Much appreciated.
Also: it's important for anyone who is using solder paste to store it in the fridge, or another chilled place.
Good point, do you know if the same holds true for paste flux?
What happened if not?
Why is that?
True of many, but some cannot be refrigerated without degrading. Rule of thumb: read the label.
Thank you. You just explained to me what the last video I watched didn't explain at all.😊
My friend this video was a major help to me...thank you so much for making this video.
AWESOME tip!!!! I have never watched any video talking about or showing the differences between Type 3, 4, 5... great work mate!!! Ohhh yeaaahhh =]
Thanks man, I watched your lab tour last night. What a great space you have. Your spot welder is amazing!
Proto G thaaaaaaaanks mate, I’ve got the Andonstar thanks to your video haha =]
What are those ring things holding your solder sucker and various snippers/pliers @ 4:08-4:10? They seem to hang from regular wire shelving? I *REALLY* need to know where/how you got those, please!
Great video with microscopic, are you putting the PCB in oven to cure the paste?
Great info! I never knew there were different types - don't use much solder paste, but I have had problems with it in the past. Next time I'll definitely look for some type 5. And I agree about leaded solder, it's so much nicer to work with.
anything about different metals? lead? tin? zinc? gold? silver?
Great video! What hot air soldering station do you use/recommend for someone wanting to get started building their own boards?
Thank you! This is the hot air station I use and I love it: amzn.to/2Kmo4gB
If don't want to start with the best you can get by with one like this just fine: amzn.to/2MF2a53
Or if you want to go REALLY cheap, you can get decent results from one of these: a.co/9lBtYJJ
I picked one up from the local Goodwill for $5, works great for desoldering and SMD rework... Just have to be careful not to overheat your work.
Thank you, def looking to go with the quality one.
I got the cheapest Atten 8858 style like PG's 2nd link but the one that uses the laptop power brick type supply. I think I paid ~$35 with all the extra round junk tips and all. After using mine for awhile definitely spend the extra few bucks for the one like the link. The laptop power brick with cords on both ends is just a pain to handle on the bench. If you have the bench space get a unit with the complete bench enclosure/interface. I'm looking to hack mine into some kind of bench enclosure now.
Also it's probably a good idea to go ahead and get a couple cheap square tips. That's the nice thing about the atten style guns, the tips are cheap and fairly prolific. You'll find a wide variety of PLCC specific and larger TQFP sizes cheap if you shop around. I got a pair of square tips in ~14mm and ~20mm IIRC for less than $5.
-Jake
Thank you very much for the video. I was confuse which paste should I buy to solder some chip 8 legs. After watching this video, now I know what to do. Thank you! 5 stars, Liked and Subscribed.
Just about to start smd o
In the immediate future and was glad to stumble over this video
Great video! Short and informative. Trying solder paste for the first time. Now I know what to buy for my boards. Thanks!
I didn't even know there were different types! That might explain why I have some trouble with fine-pitch ICs! Well, looks like I'll be looking for some type 5 and trying again. Thanks for the tip!!
You saved me A LOT OF MONEY just now, than you!
Thank you for good material
Could it be applied to bga rework?
I'm going to try
Nice informative video . Told me all I wanted to know! But. . .what is it with you guys and the metric system? A micrometer (or micrometre)is the tool that looks like a small G clamp and is used for accurate measurement. A µm on the other hand is a micron! :) Anyway, good work and thanks again!
What type of gloves do you use?
I bought T4 not knowing, I'm kinda good right?
Leaded solder is not worth risk if you're going to be doing this a lot.
what can be made with soldering?
If we give gang solder mask for fine pitch packages due to mask to mask clearance is less, is there is a chance of solder short while taking reflow??
What makes melting temperature difference ? Size of ball or ratio of SN and PB ?
alloy used
What are the pad sizes and pitch at 2:54?
how to solder wires to a LED strip using solder paste?
Would you mind doing same comparison of type 4 vs type 5? especially interested in low temp paste. Thanks!
Great info clearly and succinctly presented. Thank you. This helps my own research in automated solder paste applications.
May I ask,how fast does it harden and does it need heat to do so? Does it work when soldering Led & Steel?
2 Customer reviews was 1 of 5
At the end, when you do the comparison, please use a tripod and move a little slower! Thanks for the video.
I was going to make a joke about the mechanic solder paste. Then I looked at the one in the fridge and realized it marked as 25-45um, so I guess it’s type 3. I never realized that, I bought it to test it against more expensive solder paste I use, and I use the same type 3 from SRA solder also. Now I’m really going to have to take a close look under the microscope to see if this cheap paste is really 25-45um.Maybe I should get some SRA T3 and compare that to the mechanic paste?
Do it, that would be a great video! Maybe you could microscope slide with a micrometer grid to compare them. I'm assuming you meant you use the same type 5 paste from SRA that I do?
Excellent video. Thanks for the helpful tips.
Thank you for that informative info, I don't hardly ever use it but that is really good to know.
100% valuable information! Thanks for a great video!
what about temperature?
I need work on it for soldering paste type 5, will you help me.
Thanks a lot for this video ! Very enlightening !
impressive captures of the flow process... good work.btw can you DIY with some decent flux and solder balls as that give you way more control over these variables..?
I always end up adding too much solder paste to my SMD. can I dilute the paste myself?
I'm not sure, I've never tried that before.
I had some old dried up solder paste that I thinned with flux. It actually worked quite well but I did end up with more "stray balls" around the board.
Thank you
thanks for your contribution, good to know facts.
What tip and cap do you have on that first syringe?
Not sure, it just came with the MG Chemicals solder paste.
I looked it up, Its just a long luer lock needle with a safety cap, it seems you have to buy a large quality to get them, I do not see safety caps for sale. I thought it would be nice to have a cap on the tips, and long blunt tip needles.
I've bought sets like this just for the end caps before. Can be very useful. bit.ly/2KCtPWR
Thanks, I did not come across any that was that inexpensive.
This video quality is outstanding, 60 fps is almost too high without a gimbal though ( or are you using one? ), wow.
Thank you, I'm using a gimbal in some of the shots but not all. I like to film handheld so I've been trying to use a gimbal more but I still don't have very steady hands.
where's the link for that paste?
Solder Paste Used in Video:
Type 5: amzn.to/2MDLpqF
Type 3: amzn.to/2MDLrih
oh thanks, you just mentioned it in video, so I was curious :D
Anyone tried the XG-Z40 stuff. It looks to be Type 3, at $2.84 on AliEx for 10cc, I think that's my first stop unless someone can convince this miser otherwise.
-Jake
It is Type 3. Just don't use it with components smaller than 0402 and you should be fine. It doesn't work well for the 32-PIN SOICW chip in the video with a 0.65mm pitch.
I have used that solder paste with a LTC3502 (0.25mm pad, 0.45mm pitch) using stencil and a LGA12 package (applied using a pick) and it worked fine
Those are some awesome shots of the paste melting, but the way you applied the solder paste makes me wonder why you even bother with a stencil at all. The stuff is all over the place. Watch a few videos about screen printing and do what they are doing: Apply a small amount of paste north of all the holes in your stencil, never put it directly on the holes! Then squeegee it over the holes *once*. Not twice, once. Then it's only a matter of lifting the stencil as vertically as possible, so you don't smear the applied paste. The squeegee-step and the stencil lifting might need some practice, but when you got it down you can achieve industrial looking results with no problems at all.
great video !!
Might want to blur out your dog's home again ID number.
It's my cat, but that's ok, you can't see any of my info with that. Worst case, someone reports my cat lost but I'm sitting next to him.
"Soder" ??? What about pronouncing the 'L' ie. 'Solder' ?
True what he says about lead based, but do not use it 'just because'. I'm not one of those environmental experts but it seriously has a really bad effect on the environment. Try and use lead free, it's not that hard
As long as it's a hobby project, do yourself a favor and use lead based solder. The fumes are even worse for your personal health with lead free solder. The heat needed for most lead free solder results in more toxic fumes for you to potentially breathe in. My projects do not end up in the landfill so I don't see an issue with using lead based solder. If I were making a project that is getting assembled by an assembly house, I would definitely opt for ROHS compliant materials.
Direct quote - "Research has shown that the fumes and vapours emanating from lead-free solders may
be more dangerous to workers and to the environment than those emitted by traditional
lead containing solders. A study by the Danish Toxicology Centre assessed both the
toxicity of lead and the metals used in lead-free alloys. While lead was highly toxic to
humans, silver, a standard constituent of lead-free alloys, was found to be several orders
of magnitude more eco-toxic than lead. In addition, some of the other metals used in
lead-free alloys were shown to have uncertain toxicological results. "
You can use a high performance fume extractor, but chances are, the common home hobbyist is not going to have a good enough extractor.
@@ProtoG42 Apparently, the melting point of leaded Sn63Pb37 solder is 183C and the melting point of Sn42Bi58 is only 138C. So it sounds if you go with non-leaded not only do you avoid lead pollution / poisoning but you also get a paste that's easier to work with, no? I'm just asking, I have no experience here.
lmao just use regular solder wire
Use the term "microns" instead of micrometers.. sounds like you're talking about a measuring device when you say micrometers 🤣
Rubbish! Looks like you thinned the type 3 with alcohol or something..
Incorrect.
Then something else! It is much more liquid then the other!
@@ProtoG42
@@SurvivalSquirrel look at the size of the solder balls. Look closer and you’ll see the type 5 balls are much smaller
@@ProtoG42 Are you ignoring my argument?
Its easy to see at 2:53, that it has a much different viscousity!
@@ProtoG42
O im a early worm
I don't buy solder paste, I take cheap solder and cheap flux and blend it together 😂😂