This video is superb and caters for both the novice and the pro.Excellent step by step tutorial and with suitable caveats in place.Good quality camera work and lighting.Roll on to the next one.
This guy’s explanation is clear. If you have troubles with this particular repair, I recommend a HAYNES Repair Manual for the make, model of your vehicle.
Just the video I was looking for , much appreciated was having trouble checking if crankshaft pully marks were alined while piston 1 is at tdc , thanks a lot guy.
Great video hey I 100% agree with your take on novice people doing this Job. I've done dozens of timing belt kits all on Honda cars. You HAVE TO get those marks lined up perfectly especially once you Tension the belt. I see alot of people screw up on the balance shaft belt and forget to use a long Bolt to Lock the balance gear in place and then they have an Engine that vibrates really Bad.
Great information man, a quick cheat I have learned is/if you are doing the T belt for service purposes that means the car is perfect talking timing wise so what I do is of course set my timing marks than mark the T belt to the cam sprocket/s and crank sprocket that way I know exactly where the timing belt is (I mark it where it's best for me), than when I get it out all I do is transfer the marks from my old T belt to my new T belt, and wallahh is in the exact same position. Of curse I turn it at least three revs to make sure I have the correct tension and to check over my work (my marks though won't line up till Chinese New Year).
is it necessary to determine whether or not the pistons are in the compression stroke or exhaust stroke? or as long as its tdc and arrows are aligned, its correct?
Your videos are really starting to look very professional, it's great to see you have learned the power of editing. So many video on youtube would be so much better for a bit of editing.
Very good man, I like the way you explain things and that you kept double checking your work as you should. Im in the middle of doing the same job and used your video as a reference to make sure im on track. thank you very much.
I like how you know what you're doing. You're the one that showed me that it's never just the head gasket. But if I want to learn and destroy my engine I will in the name of learning. lol
Lol, learning from your mistakes is one of the best ways to learn, (it's exactly how I learned most of what I know) but that maybe not the best strategy in this application lol. Actually what I've learned is you should try to learn from *others'* mistakes, not your own!!!
Hey, great video...helped me out a bunch...kept hooking the spring and it made the belt to tight, savvy. There are always things that only experience can teach...Thanks again. D
Matt, another great work. I have a Honda with mechanical SOHC and the procedure is exactly right. Thanks for sharing again another fantastic video. Greetings from Spain =)
I like how you triple and quadruple checked the timing marks. I do the same. Plenty of times i have began the procedure of installing a new timing belt and the crank or cam gear is 1/16 off left or right and throws the entire belt off 1 notch either btdc or atdc....twin or quad overhead cams are even more of a pain in the ass....... accuracy is important to get it right! Nice job
Excellent video as always. I've never done one, but I like how you recheck after each stage to be sure nothing moved once it was tightened. Other than seeing another example of timing marks this was my greatest take away.
DE Nichols That's all you should need- is knowing how the timing marks align. But another key thing is the rotation. If you rotate the engine clockwise, the slack will be taken up in the wrong direction and you'll be off a tooth. This job is FAR easier than on the toyota engines where everything moves when you tension the belt and you have to account for the movement.
Schrodingers Box Have you had to reinstall timing chains? It's my one worry on a big engine job coming up on my 2000 Chevy Prizm. I'm not sure if they have a similar habit. Knowing the engines direction of travel. Another big take away!
DE Nichols Other than your traditional timing chains like the simple cam and crank that you line up the dots- I have done 2 styles of chains. The Chrysler 2.7L and a Honda - oh whatever the V6 accords have. They are more involved than the belt for sure but again, mechanical aptitude should get you by. One thing I like about the Honda chain- the chain has different colored links that line up to notched teeth on the cams and crank so you know you are timed correctly and can't possibly screw it up. The timing chain "guides" are a little funky though but if you understand the concept of cam/crank timing it's nothing to worry about. If you remove the intake cam however... that's a different story- you have to reset the VTEC position and thats funky.
Schrodingers Box I've read some competent forum guides about my engine and thankfully it has colored links to make it more obvious as well. The tensioner (it's all coming back to me. Lol) has to be set. You set it's spring tight. After installation it has to unspring by turning the engine backwards initially to fully set the part in.
I gotta give it to Honda, they do make things pretty easy on their techs, for the most part. Also, thumbs up to the owner of that particular Honda for keeping his exhaust system stock! I have a feeling that there's more going on with that car than just a timing belt, though... ;)
rhkips Lol- well there was... but nothing exciting. The master cylinder just needed replacing so I didn't want to totally reassemble the car for the final scene.
I remember doing my non vetch Civic and the hardest thing for me was getting a way over tightened harmonic balancer off. I did have to chuckle to myself when you said to disable the ignition system to turn over the engine because this was my first timing belt change I turned over the engine by hand about 4 times and checked the marks before going onto testing with the starter motor and rechecking the marks before I was 100% confident to allow the engine to run. I can't remember how long it took me and to be honest I didn't care as long everything was ok as this is one thing that you do not want to screw up!
You are amazing. I was stuck trying to get my new belt on, but I just couldn't get it to fit. the instructions for the kit I bought told me to attach the tensioner spring before putting the new belt on. I did some googling, stumbled upon your video, saw that that wasn't the way to do it, and now have my car put back together with everything working and sounding just right! Thanks for a great video!
Schrodingers Box I would have to agree. I really like the fact you recommended replacing the pulleys and water pump. I don't know how many people have brought one in and just asked for a belt only then a month or so later needed a new water pump and blamed my shop even though they were asked about the water pump while everything was apart lol. It just makes sense to do things properly.
Absolutely correct. Also, even worse, I have seen where people just replace the belt and a timing component fails- it is overlooked that those timing components have the same mileage as the old belt, and the new belt tension will strain them further and induce failure. I would say almost half of timing belt failures I have seen were not failures with the belt but rather failure with a pulley or tensioners.
Schrodingers Box Oh yeah that's almost a 100% fact. Idiots are all like well the pollys are made of metal and the belts rubber so the belts going to wear faster then you just want to throat punch them cuz they're idiots but yeah I completely agree with you
Bob Moore Thats good to know- I have VW to often use special tools. Changing the axleshafts for example use special star sockets that are not torx- they are like 12 point or something weird. I would have expected even worse with a timing belt.
Schrodingers Box we found out that you need 12 point "Vielzahn" (translates to "many teeth") in order to unscrew the rear brake calipers on a Golf V. The front ones are normal hex/allen bolts...go figure...
Rhage73 Yes Rhage I agree- But I have never been clear on *why* the interference engine is so common- much less exists at all. My theory is that it allows for much smaller engine design while maintaining reasonable power by maximizing the intake and exhaust through valve lift as opposed to diameter. (e.g. opening a smaller valve further is equivalent to opening a bigger valve less). That's the only theory I can come up with, that doesn't sound conspiratorial at least.
Perhaps, but at the same time it is quite the trade off for a few more HP rather than just throwing a little larger cam at it to get the same lift and duration. I can see "smaller" but at the same time, again with the trade off deal. now with the overhead cams and no need for push rods it seems the size thing takes care of itself. it may be the angle that the valves open instead of the lift / duration, making the piston rods a little longer would cause it to be an interference as well, at the same time maximizing compression. to be more efficient. /shrug. i couldn't say speculation and conjecture will get me pretty much nothing at this point lol. ur theory sounds reasonable. just one of the worlds many mysteries sir. Go go gadget research and experiment video? haha. have a good one man, and i will make you a deal. if you keep posting, well i will keep watching. =)
Is there any reason I cannot break the crank bolt loose first, before disassembling everything? It seems like I could break it loose then tighten it up again to turn the motor. Obviously, if I can't get the crank bolt loose it's a deal breaker on the timing belt replacement. Thank you for the great video.
***** Thanks George- as promised earlier, I am committed to improving the quality of content. Many people have told me I should be committed. I assume that's what they meant?
***** You're not sure? Are you being coy? A running joke amongst my siblings was that we should invest in institutions so we'd get a discount when we needed then later. Lol
How are you turning the crank counter clockwise if the harmonic balanced isn’t installed yet? If you use the crank bolt it won’t turn the crank because you’re just loosening the bolt when you turn counter-clockwise. If you tighten the crank bolt it will throw arrow/notch marks off and then you’re basically starting over again… I have yet to find any info on how you’re supposed to turn the engine over counter clockwise twice to make sure marks are aligned…. I’m working on my 2002 civic. Thanks
Thank you and I don't know if you still answer questions or are still on here but I recently on my car worked on they had to change stuff around the timing belt and now it sounds great but whenever it gets to 4000 RPMs it'll jump when I'm driving it but if I keep it under it's fine is that to do with the timing belt
I’m not understanding how to get the crank shaft bolt off to put the pulley back on without moving the timing. I’m in time but if you’re timing it counterclockwise how do you unscrew the bolt once it’s in time?
Hi Matt, Your positive to negative comment ratio is way too high so I need to balance it out a little :-). Great video, as usual, but I do have two observations. I would always recommend replacing the cam seals and crank seal at a timing belt install, especially with intervals getting higher on recommended replacement. Also, you don't mention that while the crank TDC is crank TDC, the cam(s) will have two possible conditions. TDC at compression, or TDC at exhaust. Cams will have some sort of marking such as "up" to indicate which is the TDC position. Less critical on a single cam engine in terms of consequences, but still an issue on a single cam engine depending on ignition trigger mechanism. I would make some sort of mention of this as typically the cam marks are 180 degrees opposed and hence symmetrical in distribution around the diameter of the pulley. Keep up the good work! Robb
kermit80526 Regarding the first point- good point. Regarding the second point, I was hoping the multiple clear shots and explanation of the "UP" mark on the cam sprocket combined with verification of compression after belt was installed when bringing piston up to TDC would have covered that.
Schrodingers Box I humbly have to eat my words on my second comment. You clearly stated to check that "up" on cam sprocket was oriented properly. I don't know how I missed it.
If the engine is turned over but not run the valves can still be bent? 2002 Honda, If the head was replaced and the timing belt is still in place is there anyway to find the timing mark on the bottom pully without taking the belt pully and timing belt cover off? Doesn't TDC come up twice, compression and exhaust/intake? then looking at the timing mark you have to look at the valve positions otherwise your spark could be on the wrong cycle?
Billy R Trust me I know. I hate videos like this one to be honest but it's all I had this Memorial Day weekend that I thought might be halfway reasonable material. First thing I asked the lady was "does it have a check engine light on" and when she said no, I charged her extra.
Schrodingers Box That's a good one, charged her extra for a no check engine light. Hey maybe boring, but look at it this way, it may saved some poor sap from smashing his pistons into his valves! Take care Matt!
You will definitely get a crankshaft position sensor code or at very least a misfire because the pcm will either notice the variance OR will interpret it as a slower crankshaft speed and assign a misfire.
@@SchrodingersBox can it cause car not to start because when i unplugged the sensor the car starts but is in limp mode but when i plug it back in it tries to start but dosn't
Ohhhhhhh yeah I can see that happening. Maybe it thinks the missing tooth is a TDC#1 signal and thus your timing sets wrong. Unplugging it maybe forces the cam sensor to be used instead and it’s not missing a tooth so it’s timing right. I can see that as a possibility. Unfortunately you will need to replace the flywheel. You also risk not being able to crank the car if you stop engine and it happens to be missing tooth aligns with starter so the start can’t grab it.
If I'm in the middle of nowhere and had a blown head gasket can I use the same gasket clean it up then use spray paint as a gasket seal if nothing else is available
Another great video, I just finished binge watching all the videos on your channel! I am sure ill have to go back and rewatch some as I dont think all the information was retained. Is there a schedule you follow on releasing videos so I know when to look for new ones?
Lol binge watching! How did you ever survive?? I don't have a release schedule. I suggest subscribing to the channel and I will alert you every time I release a video.
How much would you estimate it would cost to buy all your pulley parts timing belt and tensioner replacement and to have them all replaced if you have your own parts and you’re just having them installed by someone?
Hey Matt, Fan of your videos and like really appreciate the help you are providing. I recently changed the timing belt on my 02 accord DX 2.3 L 4-cylinder and after running for about a day I heard my belt rubbing against something. Turns out it was walking off the Cam and rubbing against the cover and the balancer belt. I used a kit with new belts and tensioners and water pump. There is good tension on the belts. However when I rotate the engine by hand it is still walking off the cam until it starts to rub against the balencer belt. I read that it could be tentioner bolt or bent cam bolt, not sure how i can check the cam though. as far as I can tell it seems straight. Hope you can help point me in the right direction and keep up the good videos!
This is my 4th time changing the timing belt for Honda Civic I am doing this for my self my family. It’s very important in this work when you put the parts in place, the sequence. It’s a lots of work. Thanks again for the professional job. God bless you guys
Another great video. Did this engine not have a balancer belt? I just changed my timing/balancer belt & waterpump on my 2002 accord 4cy vtec engine...similar. the balancer belt is tricky though - the balancer pully has an alignment mark, but the balancer pulley could also be 180degrees out (who would have known?). Luckily i found the full service manual online (free), and was able to pick up on it.
I'm about to do my 01 d17a1 lx civic but I read where you shouldnt use the vtech belt on non vtech but when I get on amazon to order its confusing cause on one post itll say it fits my vehicle then on others its says it doesnt but they all say in description that parts fit d17a1. Anyone know if the vtech and non vtech timing belt is the same.
My belt broke, so i'm replacing it, according to autozone, their book only shows one belt , but, I have a 2002 Civic LX 1.7L I don't know about the 2001. I would think it would be the same......
@@jayman2261 i hope,people are trying to say if you use the vtec belt on a non vtec itll slip faster or better chance of slipping. I got my kit a few days ago and gonna start it tomorrow or day after. I'm gonna compare belt lengths too when I take the old one off. I had the 02 and 01 at the same time and the only different was one was a stick shift and different interior material. Other than that everything was exactly the same. My 01 still has the same motor as the 02 had,coils on the plugs not the distributor on the side.
Nicely done Matt!. Have done many of these over the years and they are pretty easy. Did this one come in for a routine TB replacement or did it break and come in on a tow truck?
Randall Dalton No this one came in as a used car purchase that owner wanted to "play it safe" because wasn't sure when belt was changed and car had 140K miles. Good for HER!!!
Schrodingers Box If there was a timing belt failure it most likely would cause significant engine damage correct? Or might it just break one day on start up and not cause damage due to the low RPMS during cranking?
On this model odds are you would have bent valves with a broken timing belt. I would imagine odds are lowered if it happened during starting rather than engine running but the valves in these engines are pretty skinny- I imagine even a starter motor could easily bend them. I would t want to find out lol!
Schrodingers Box My mom has a 97 accord, timing belt broke while starting and she kept on cranking hoping it would start. It will most definitely bend the valves.
Jon Allan It's a little different when starting. Odds are a little better. It should have been obvious pretty quickly it wouldn't start though- all the starter motor would do is spin free. If I saw the car I would do a quick leakdown test first to confirm if any valves were bent and if all cylinders test negative I would have no problem buying a belt, put it in, and calling it a lucky day.
I was wondering if you could tell me. I jumped in my car drove 2 blocks, it drove fine to the store shut the engine off and when I came back to start my car it would fire up but bog out and die every time the same way is it my timing or is it a different problem I have an 2001 Honda civic DX 1.7L
Good video, I just noted that the engine belt is on the driver side on this, can it be a reason for it rotating counterclockwise since the transmission is backwards?
AutoFocus I have no idea but that explanation works for me! This idea would be pretty well supported if model years that go clockwise have the belt on the right side of the engine bay. I never really noticed.
Glad to see solid timing material at your channel. This is like "must have" for channels like yours anyway. Although I also hope to see some weird diagnostic vid soon ;) If you are running out of ideas, don't have interesting cars - I can give you mine. Already spent 2 weeks diagnosing rough idle and no luck. But also no parts changed! And yes, again, this is not OBDII car. Can you think about any weird places where I can find vacuum leak? I'm sort of sure this will be pretty big vacuum leak in some mystery area that I cannot find (no, I don't have smoke machine) Is it possible that ignition system (rotor on cam, ignition timing managed by computer) can cause rough idle, but no drivability issues? And there is no misfires, they are easy to diagnose in 4cyl engine even without scan tool.
Hey mess, sorry just saw this. Maybe you solved it by now but one thing often overlooked in rough idle without misfires is mechanical cause. Several examples I've experienced: a missing fan blade caused a wicked rough idle in a blazer. Sometimes removing the serpentine belt reveals an accessory with bent pulley or something. Bad engine mounts. torque converter shudder. harmonic balancer wobbling. If fuel trims are normal and no misfires, I generally start looking at mechanical as next step.
Schrodingers Box yep, probably you are totally right here. The problem is still not solved, but it looks to me like dual mass flywheel is causing this issue. It also started to make some knocking, that pointed me to this direction. It feels like running engine is not well balanced (harmonic balancer is ok, compression is even). Pretty weird issue to diagnose.
Hey man,I just watched your video of you working on a 2002 civic ex just like mine. I have a problem with this noise constantly coming from down below my crankshaft area as if the tensioner is to tight, which I think it is but not sure. And I'm have a ( p1361, TDC sensor 1 noise ). I changed the sensor and it stop turn off on me while driving and also stop hesitating to start and lost of power. After installed the sensor the check engine light when out after driving a few minutes but , it came back yesterday.. If the timing belt is too tight, will it cause the issue that I'm having with the code ( p1361,TDC sensor 1 noise) ?. Also there are two Mark's on the lower timing belt cover, there is one that you were looking through from the top with the ( V ) And there is another that's right underneath the (V) that you were looking through. Both of them should be used to catch the time, right?
I really enjoy your videos. I learn even though I don't know squat about cars. Was wondering if you could tell me is $265 plus tax a fair price for a power steering and serpentine belt change on a 98 Nissan Maxima? Seems pretty steep. Even I know belts don't cost that much. Thanks in advance.
That's too much. That's ridiculous, a serpentine belt is only $25. Stay away from dealers unless you have a warranty. Dealers tend to over charge. Go to either a DIY mechanic, that you trust of course, or a mechanic that owns his own shop. You have to also consider the labor of the job. Some charge $75-$100 an hour.
If the timing is just a hair off top dead center before removing the old belt, can you turn it clockwise (backwards) just a hair to align the marks? or do you have to turn counterclockwise at all times? I noticed you backtracked the crank by a hair which is why I asked. Thanks so much for this very nice video!
properly done the timing will be exact and visually obvious. If you have to turn counterclockwise you generate slack in the belt so I instead just advance 720 degree exactly.
You obviously have never done this job before. They have EVERYTHING to do with the belt. How else would you get the timing cover off since it fits over those studs and is secured with the 2 nuts???? Armchair mechanics.
+Schrodingers Box believe me my friend check again at 7:04 l talking about 2 nuts that hold the oil pan the bolts down from oil pump to the pan that nuts are missing and I see it because I working on my like 5 hours ago that is why I know, I am not talking about those bolts that hold the timing belt cover.
I have the same car... I recently changed my timing belt.. While changing, i noticed that the old belt was not alligned.. It was half teeth advanced. Now when i am trying to install it in total alignment, it either goes half teeth retard or advance.. What could be the reason and what's the solution of this problem???
Its tricky- this happens to me too- the trick is you have to set the crankshaft advanced just enought teeth so it ends in the correct position when tension is applied. Sometimes takes me a few attempts but the marks will line up exactly when done correctly.
I'm still having trouble with this point. I'm being told the head is warped. I feel like the timing is still off. replaced the head gasket as well. Any help 🙏. Thnx
I think the replaced head gasket should be of the same height as the original. If the height of the gasket is more, this problem will occur.. at least, that's what I think.
So instead of going to tech school, how would an individual learn to do things? I opened tires, started to change oil, did brakes, struts and not much by going over videos. There's no alternative to experience. There are people out there atleast me who benefits on seeing of opening of water pump. Ha One has to start somewhere. Even you started from zero once. I won't be forcing you to make videos, it's your channel. Even the crummiest videos have views, likes Since you are not paying for storage of videos, shoot and upload, stating informal/uncut
nhz013 The trick is to learn the theory of operation and then ALL cars make sense. Every car I ever see is always the first time I have seen that make and model (this one in the video is my first VTEC in fact) but the idea is not to learn how to replace a water pump on a 2001 Honda. The idea is if you know all about water pump function an d mechanism you can change one on any car. It's like "learn to fish" instead of "get a fish". Once you do that, all cars are virtually the same. In fact you see the differences and figure them out yourself because you know they still have to meet some type of common function. It's enlightmenment over experience.
This video is superb and caters for both the novice and the pro.Excellent step by step tutorial and with suitable caveats in place.Good quality camera work and lighting.Roll on to the next one.
Tom OConnor Thanks Tom, I appreciate you noticing the videography, I have been working on that!!
This guy’s explanation is clear. If you have troubles with this particular repair, I recommend a HAYNES Repair Manual for the make, model of your vehicle.
Burping the coolant system is very critical on the 1.7 L. If any air is trapped in the idle control you'll have a very high idle. Great video.
Damn man, it’s an old video but about the only video out there I was looking for! Freaking Win! Thanks brother!
Just the video I was looking for , much appreciated was having trouble checking if crankshaft pully marks were alined while piston 1 is at tdc , thanks a lot guy.
Great video hey I 100% agree with your take on novice people doing this Job. I've done dozens of timing belt kits all on Honda cars. You HAVE TO get those marks lined up perfectly especially once you Tension the belt. I see alot of people screw up on the balance shaft belt and forget to use a long Bolt to Lock the balance gear in place and then they have an Engine that vibrates really Bad.
yeah i got sick of getting hate mail from people who destroyed tueir engines because they can't follow instructions so i made this as a caveat.
Great information man, a quick cheat I have learned is/if you are doing the T belt for service purposes that means the car is perfect talking timing wise so what I do is of course set my timing marks than mark the T belt to the cam sprocket/s and crank sprocket that way I know exactly where the timing belt is (I mark it where it's best for me), than when I get it out all I do is transfer the marks from my old T belt to my new T belt, and wallahh is in the exact same position. Of curse I turn it at least three revs to make sure I have the correct tension and to check over my work (my marks though won't line up till Chinese New Year).
Thank you finally someone who showed how to correctly set the timing belt tensioner
is it necessary to determine whether or not the pistons are in the compression stroke or exhaust stroke? or as long as its tdc and arrows are aligned, its correct?
Your videos are really starting to look very professional, it's great to see you have learned the power of editing. So many video on youtube would be so much better for a bit of editing.
Very good man, I like the way you explain things and that you kept double checking your work as you should. Im in the middle of doing the same job and used your video as a reference to make sure im on track. thank you very much.
I like how you know what you're doing. You're the one that showed me that it's never just the head gasket. But if I want to learn and destroy my engine I will in the name of learning. lol
Lol, learning from your mistakes is one of the best ways to learn, (it's exactly how I learned most of what I know) but that maybe not the best strategy in this application lol.
Actually what I've learned is you should try to learn from *others'* mistakes, not your own!!!
Hey, great video...helped me out a bunch...kept hooking the spring and it made the belt to tight, savvy. There are always things that only experience can teach...Thanks again. D
Matt, another great work.
I have a Honda with mechanical SOHC and the procedure is exactly right.
Thanks for sharing again another fantastic video.
Greetings from Spain =)
I have a 2005 D15b .
Took it out of junk yard.
Need to do TDC.
Great video! Thanks!
I like how you triple and quadruple checked the timing marks. I do the same. Plenty of times i have began the procedure of installing a new timing belt and the crank or cam gear is 1/16 off left or right and throws the entire belt off 1 notch either btdc or atdc....twin or quad overhead cams are even more of a pain in the ass....... accuracy is important to get it right! Nice job
In general, my persistence in measurement is directly proportional to the consequences of being inaccurate.
Schrodingers Box you got that right......perfectionist! lol
Excellent video as always. I've never done one, but I like how you recheck after each stage to be sure nothing moved once it was tightened. Other than seeing another example of timing marks this was my greatest take away.
DE Nichols That's all you should need- is knowing how the timing marks align. But another key thing is the rotation. If you rotate the engine clockwise, the slack will be taken up in the wrong direction and you'll be off a tooth.
This job is FAR easier than on the toyota engines where everything moves when you tension the belt and you have to account for the movement.
Schrodingers Box Have you had to reinstall timing chains? It's my one worry on a big engine job coming up on my 2000 Chevy Prizm. I'm not sure if they have a similar habit.
Knowing the engines direction of travel. Another big take away!
DE Nichols Other than your traditional timing chains like the simple cam and crank that you line up the dots- I have done 2 styles of chains. The Chrysler 2.7L and a Honda - oh whatever the V6 accords have. They are more involved than the belt for sure but again, mechanical aptitude should get you by. One thing I like about the Honda chain- the chain has different colored links that line up to notched teeth on the cams and crank so you know you are timed correctly and can't possibly screw it up. The timing chain "guides" are a little funky though but if you understand the concept of cam/crank timing it's nothing to worry about.
If you remove the intake cam however... that's a different story- you have to reset the VTEC position and thats funky.
Schrodingers Box I've read some competent forum guides about my engine and thankfully it has colored links to make it more obvious as well.
The tensioner (it's all coming back to me. Lol) has to be set. You set it's spring tight. After installation it has to unspring by turning the engine backwards initially to fully set the part in.
Not one forum member thought to turn the engine two turns and CONFIRM timing on an interference engine. Yikes.
I gotta give it to Honda, they do make things pretty easy on their techs, for the most part. Also, thumbs up to the owner of that particular Honda for keeping his exhaust system stock!
I have a feeling that there's more going on with that car than just a timing belt, though... ;)
rhkips Lol- well there was... but nothing exciting. The master cylinder just needed replacing so I didn't want to totally reassemble the car for the final scene.
The way this guy explains everything 🙏thank you
I remember doing my non vetch Civic and the hardest thing for me was getting a way over tightened harmonic balancer off. I did have to chuckle to myself when you said to disable the ignition system to turn over the engine because this was my first timing belt change I turned over the engine by hand about 4 times and checked the marks before going onto testing with the starter motor and rechecking the marks before I was 100% confident to allow the engine to run. I can't remember how long it took me and to be honest I didn't care as long everything was ok as this is one thing that you do not want to screw up!
I hope you changed the crank seal on that puppy, for the looks of it it was leaking, great video!!
Great video. Straight to the point and explained very well
This video was dead on. Glad I found this. Thanks from Ohio
Because of you I have it down and I understand it completely. Thank you 🙏
Omg thank you for this video it helped out so much tried so hard to find a video that explains tdc
You are amazing. I was stuck trying to get my new belt on, but I just couldn't get it to fit. the instructions for the kit I bought told me to attach the tensioner spring before putting the new belt on. I did some googling, stumbled upon your video, saw that that wasn't the way to do it, and now have my car put back together with everything working and sounding just right! Thanks for a great video!
Glad you got it to work!
I have this car and I'm due to this job and others. Nice one Matt.
Looked easier than that 03 Focus we used to have lol took me all day. Great vid Matt
I would agree- easier than a focus.
I would say the second easiest I've ever done. The easiest by far I believe I have ever seen is the Chrysler 3.5L.
Schrodingers Box I would have to agree. I really like the fact you recommended replacing the pulleys and water pump. I don't know how many people have brought one in and just asked for a belt only then a month or so later needed a new water pump and blamed my shop even though they were asked about the water pump while everything was apart lol. It just makes sense to do things properly.
Absolutely correct. Also, even worse, I have seen where people just replace the belt and a timing component fails- it is overlooked that those timing components have the same mileage as the old belt, and the new belt tension will strain them further and induce failure.
I would say almost half of timing belt failures I have seen were not failures with the belt but rather failure with a pulley or tensioners.
Schrodingers Box Oh yeah that's almost a 100% fact. Idiots are all like well the pollys are made of metal and the belts rubber so the belts going to wear faster then you just want to throat punch them cuz they're idiots but yeah I completely agree with you
Schrodingers Box Excellent comment!
Great video and helped me out a lot. Thanks!!
My VW is basically the same (sohc version) just way more awkward to work with. No expensive special tools required though which is a blessing.
Bob Moore Thats good to know- I have VW to often use special tools. Changing the axleshafts for example use special star sockets that are not torx- they are like 12 point or something weird. I would have expected even worse with a timing belt.
Schrodingers Box we found out that you need 12 point "Vielzahn" (translates to "many teeth") in order to unscrew the rear brake calipers on a Golf V. The front ones are normal hex/allen bolts...go figure...
Dead on, right on the mark, perfect timing video. Thanks.
John Fountaine Timing is everything!
Nice job on the T belt change. Good info too. seems like most cars are interference engines these days.
Rhage73 Yes Rhage I agree- But I have never been clear on *why* the interference engine is so common- much less exists at all. My theory is that it allows for much smaller engine design while maintaining reasonable power by maximizing the intake and exhaust through valve lift as opposed to diameter. (e.g. opening a smaller valve further is equivalent to opening a bigger valve less). That's the only theory I can come up with, that doesn't sound conspiratorial at least.
Perhaps, but at the same time it is quite the trade off for a few more HP rather than just throwing a little larger cam at it to get the same lift and duration. I can see "smaller" but at the same time, again with the trade off deal. now with the overhead cams and no need for push rods it seems the size thing takes care of itself. it may be the angle that the valves open instead of the lift / duration, making the piston rods a little longer would cause it to be an interference as well, at the same time maximizing compression. to be more efficient. /shrug. i couldn't say speculation and conjecture will get me pretty much nothing at this point lol. ur theory sounds reasonable. just one of the worlds many mysteries sir. Go go gadget research and experiment video? haha. have a good one man, and i will make you a deal. if you keep posting, well i will keep watching. =)
Is there any reason I cannot break the crank bolt loose first, before disassembling everything? It seems like I could break it loose then tighten it up again to turn the motor. Obviously, if I can't get the crank bolt loose it's a deal breaker on the timing belt replacement. Thank you for the great video.
You can totally do that and in fact it’s a great strategy. Having the serp belt still on helps to keep engine from turning a little
Thanks for another great video! I really enjoy watching your channel!
***** Thanks George- as promised earlier, I am committed to improving the quality of content.
Many people have told me I should be committed. I assume that's what they meant?
Schrodingers Box lol I am not sure what they are talking about, seem pretty committed to me.
***** You're not sure? Are you being coy?
A running joke amongst my siblings was that we should invest in institutions so we'd get a discount when we needed then later. Lol
Great video and very helpful. Thanks so much.
Man your awesome.you explained it well and thank you.
How are you turning the crank counter clockwise if the harmonic balanced isn’t installed yet? If you use the crank bolt it won’t turn the crank because you’re just loosening the bolt when you turn counter-clockwise. If you tighten the crank bolt it will throw arrow/notch marks off and then you’re basically starting over again… I have yet to find any info on how you’re supposed to turn the engine over counter clockwise twice to make sure marks are aligned…. I’m working on my 2002 civic. Thanks
I just use the crank bolt. The balancer is irrelevant to the timing.
Thank you and I don't know if you still answer questions or are still on here but I recently on my car worked on they had to change stuff around the timing belt and now it sounds great but whenever it gets to 4000 RPMs it'll jump when I'm driving it but if I keep it under it's fine is that to do with the timing belt
could be. I would check your timing marks, or better yet correlate the camshaft position signal with its relationship to spark at TDC.
Okay I'm going to.... my that's going to take a long time. I might just try to find a different mechanic to do it thank you for responding
I’m not understanding how to get the crank shaft bolt off to put the pulley back on without moving the timing. I’m in time but if you’re timing it counterclockwise how do you unscrew the bolt once it’s in time?
Because it is keyed on the crank shaft.
Fantastic video! Helped a lot. Thanks
like always master d right way to do things 👍🇵🇷💪🏻💯
Hi Matt,
Your positive to negative comment ratio is way too high so I need to balance it out a little :-). Great video, as usual, but I do have two observations. I would always recommend replacing the cam seals and crank seal at a timing belt install, especially with intervals getting higher on recommended replacement. Also, you don't mention that while the crank TDC is crank TDC, the cam(s) will have two possible conditions. TDC at compression, or TDC at exhaust. Cams will have some sort of marking such as "up" to indicate which is the TDC position. Less critical on a single cam engine in terms of consequences, but still an issue on a single cam engine depending on ignition trigger mechanism. I would make some sort of mention of this as typically the cam marks are 180 degrees opposed and hence symmetrical in distribution around the diameter of the pulley. Keep up the good work!
Robb
kermit80526 Regarding the first point- good point. Regarding the second point, I was hoping the multiple clear shots and explanation of the "UP" mark on the cam sprocket combined with verification of compression after belt was installed when bringing piston up to TDC would have covered that.
Schrodingers Box I humbly have to eat my words on my second comment. You clearly stated to check that "up" on cam sprocket was oriented properly. I don't know how I missed it.
kermit80526 Dont mention it- I am sure my charming demeanor was distracting lol
Schrodingers Box Possibly :-)
great job with great video and great teaching
thank you
gonz garr You're welcome!
If the engine is turned over but not run the valves can still be bent? 2002 Honda, If the head was replaced and the timing belt is still in place is there anyway to find the timing mark on the bottom pully without taking the belt pully and timing belt cover off? Doesn't TDC come up twice, compression and exhaust/intake? then looking at the timing mark you have to look at the valve positions otherwise your spark could be on the wrong cycle?
Matt, Great content and great vid! But you know me, I like the ones that have a little mystery in them! LOL!
Billy R Trust me I know. I hate videos like this one to be honest but it's all I had this Memorial Day weekend that I thought might be halfway reasonable material.
First thing I asked the lady was "does it have a check engine light on" and when she said no, I charged her extra.
Schrodingers Box That's a good one, charged her extra for a no check engine light. Hey maybe boring, but look at it this way, it may saved some poor sap from smashing his pistons into his valves! Take care Matt!
What happens if there is a broken tooth for the crankshaft position sensor
You will definitely get a crankshaft position sensor code or at very least a misfire because the pcm will either notice the variance OR will interpret it as a slower crankshaft speed and assign a misfire.
@@SchrodingersBox can it cause car not to start because when i unplugged the sensor the car starts but is in limp mode but when i plug it back in it tries to start but dosn't
Ohhhhhhh yeah I can see that happening. Maybe it thinks the missing tooth is a TDC#1 signal and thus your timing sets wrong. Unplugging it maybe forces the cam sensor to be used instead and it’s not missing a tooth so it’s timing right. I can see that as a possibility. Unfortunately you will need to replace the flywheel. You also risk not being able to crank the car if you stop engine and it happens to be missing tooth aligns with starter so the start can’t grab it.
beautiful,will done good video and info as always thanks matt.
j georges Thanks man... always showing your support.. much appreciated!
I don't understand , Does this tensioner does not move once it's torqued , What compensates for wear as the spring no longer has tension ?
it does. it sets a baseline tension- but it does adjust for stretch and as a matter of fact for temperature too.
If I'm in the middle of nowhere and had a blown head gasket can I use the same gasket clean it up then use spray paint as a gasket seal if nothing else is available
definitely not. you can’t use the same gasket again even if you didn’t blow it. once you compress it, it can’t be used again.
Another great video, I just finished binge watching all the videos on your channel! I am sure ill have to go back and rewatch some as I dont think all the information was retained. Is there a schedule you follow on releasing videos so I know when to look for new ones?
Lol binge watching! How did you ever survive?? I don't have a release schedule. I suggest subscribing to the channel and I will alert you every time I release a video.
Schrodingers Box I subcribed after the first 2 videos I watched, so I will patiently wait for more to come.
Why do you have to rotate 720 degrees, and how do you know you went a full 720?
The Schrader valve cap on the A/C low pressure side is missing.
as was the one on the left rear tire.
I did this, first time, but I think I set my tensioner too tight. I makes a humming noise at idle. F22a1
I think the reason a lot of people want to see the disassembly is they want to see different ways to remove the crank pulley bolt
How do I get other videos the same as this one
Subscribe to my channel!
How much would you estimate it would cost to buy all your pulley parts timing belt and tensioner replacement and to have them all replaced if you have your own parts and you’re just having them installed by someone?
$40?
Hey Matt,
Fan of your videos and like really appreciate the help you are providing. I recently changed the timing belt on my 02 accord DX 2.3 L 4-cylinder and after running for about a day I heard my belt rubbing against something. Turns out it was walking off the Cam and rubbing against the cover and the balancer belt. I used a kit with new belts and tensioners and water pump. There is good tension on the belts. However when I rotate the engine by hand it is still walking off the cam until it starts to rub against the balencer belt.
I read that it could be tentioner bolt or bent cam bolt, not sure how i can check the cam though. as far as I can tell it seems straight. Hope you can help point me in the right direction and keep up the good videos!
Yes this is usually an indicator that the tension is incorrect. It also happens if the timing belt is directional and installed backwards.
Thanks for your video sir 😊
Most welcome!
This is my 4th time changing the timing belt for Honda Civic I am doing this for my self my family. It’s very important in this work when you put the parts in place, the sequence. It’s a lots of work. Thanks again for the professional job. God bless you guys
Great video.
Thanks matt.
Would it be easier to remove all 4 plugs so the engine turns over easier, or not really..?
Oh yeah for sure it makes it easier. Sometimes I do that if it will save time overall.
Wht side should th timing belt be put first front or back didnt see that here?
Start with crank and work counterclockwise
Another great video.
Did this engine not have a balancer belt?
I just changed my timing/balancer belt & waterpump on my 2002 accord 4cy vtec engine...similar. the balancer belt is tricky though - the balancer pully has an alignment mark, but the balancer pulley could also be 180degrees out (who would have known?). Luckily i found the full service manual online (free), and was able to pick up on it.
No this model did not have that. I believe those are in the 4cyl accords, not the civics to best of my knowledge.
I'm about to do my 01 d17a1 lx civic but I read where you shouldnt use the vtech belt on non vtech but when I get on amazon to order its confusing cause on one post itll say it fits my vehicle then on others its says it doesnt but they all say in description that parts fit d17a1.
Anyone know if the vtech and non vtech timing belt is the same.
My belt broke, so i'm replacing it, according to autozone, their book only shows one belt , but, I have a 2002 Civic LX 1.7L I don't know about the 2001. I would think it would be the same......
@@jayman2261 i hope,people are trying to say if you use the vtec belt on a non vtec itll slip faster or better chance of slipping.
I got my kit a few days ago and gonna start it tomorrow or day after.
I'm gonna compare belt lengths too when I take the old one off.
I had the 02 and 01 at the same time and the only different was one was a stick shift and different interior material.
Other than that everything was exactly the same.
My 01 still has the same motor as the 02 had,coils on the plugs not the distributor on the side.
Nicely done Matt!. Have done many of these over the years and they are pretty easy. Did this one come in for a routine TB replacement or did it break and come in on a tow truck?
Randall Dalton No this one came in as a used car purchase that owner wanted to "play it safe" because wasn't sure when belt was changed and car had 140K miles. Good for HER!!!
Schrodingers Box If there was a timing belt failure it most likely would cause significant engine damage correct? Or might it just break one day on start up and not cause damage due to the low RPMS during cranking?
On this model odds are you would have bent valves with a broken timing belt. I would imagine odds are lowered if it happened during starting rather than engine running but the valves in these engines are pretty skinny- I imagine even a starter motor could easily bend them. I would t want to find out lol!
Schrodingers Box My mom has a 97 accord, timing belt broke while starting and she kept on cranking hoping it would start. It will most definitely bend the valves.
Jon Allan It's a little different when starting. Odds are a little better. It should have been obvious pretty quickly it wouldn't start though- all the starter motor would do is spin free.
If I saw the car I would do a quick leakdown test first to confirm if any valves were bent and if all cylinders test negative I would have no problem buying a belt, put it in, and calling it a lucky day.
I was wondering if you could tell me. I jumped in my car drove 2 blocks, it drove fine to the store shut the engine off and when I came back to start my car it would fire up but bog out and die every time the same way is it my timing or is it a different problem I have an 2001 Honda civic DX 1.7L
No idea. What data do you have?
Good video, I just noted that the engine belt is on the driver side on this, can it be a reason for it rotating counterclockwise since the transmission is backwards?
AutoFocus I have no idea but that explanation works for me! This idea would be pretty well supported if model years that go clockwise have the belt on the right side of the engine bay. I never really noticed.
Glad to see solid timing material at your channel. This is like "must have" for channels like yours anyway. Although I also hope to see some weird diagnostic vid soon ;)
If you are running out of ideas, don't have interesting cars - I can give you mine. Already spent 2 weeks diagnosing rough idle and no luck. But also no parts changed!
And yes, again, this is not OBDII car. Can you think about any weird places where I can find vacuum leak? I'm sort of sure this will be pretty big vacuum leak in some mystery area that I cannot find (no, I don't have smoke machine)
Is it possible that ignition system (rotor on cam, ignition timing managed by computer) can cause rough idle, but no drivability issues? And there is no misfires, they are easy to diagnose in 4cyl engine even without scan tool.
Hey mess, sorry just saw this. Maybe you solved it by now but one thing often overlooked in rough idle without misfires is mechanical cause. Several examples I've experienced: a missing fan blade caused a wicked rough idle in a blazer. Sometimes removing the serpentine belt reveals an accessory with bent pulley or something. Bad engine mounts. torque converter shudder. harmonic balancer wobbling.
If fuel trims are normal and no misfires, I generally start looking at mechanical as next step.
Schrodingers Box yep, probably you are totally right here. The problem is still not solved, but it looks to me like dual mass flywheel is causing this issue. It also started to make some knocking, that pointed me to this direction. It feels like running engine is not well balanced (harmonic balancer is ok, compression is even). Pretty weird issue to diagnose.
Does the tension side of belt indicate correct engine rotation mine is on the right (clockwise)? Good video and tips
Typey1 That's a good question, never really paid attention if there was a consistency there. I don't know.
Hey man,I just watched your video of you working on a 2002 civic ex just like mine. I have a problem with this noise constantly coming from down below my crankshaft area as if the tensioner is to tight, which I think it is but not sure. And I'm have a ( p1361, TDC sensor 1 noise ).
I changed the sensor and it stop turn off on me while driving and also stop hesitating to start and lost of power. After installed the sensor the check engine light when out after driving a few minutes but , it came back yesterday..
If the timing belt is too tight, will it cause the issue that I'm having with the code ( p1361,TDC sensor 1 noise) ?.
Also there are two Mark's on the lower timing belt cover, there is one that you were looking through from the top with the ( V ) And there is another that's right underneath the (V) that you were looking through. Both of them should be used to catch the time, right?
If my crank only turnsf front or back 180 but won’t go the whole 360 going forward y
Then you have misaligned the cam and crank and are running the piston into a valve.
I liked it Matt.
Camshaft torque specs?
Great video, Thanks
What engine is this you working on?
Not sure- been a while. I think... think.... it's maybe a 1.8L?
Where is your workshop, address please, I want to get trained working with you.
I followed all the steps but seems like the belt is too tight I hear a whooping sound
most likely it is something other than belt tension causing that.
Need a video on repairing the tensioner bolt hole, Someone before me strip the hole out now what?
easy- just drill next size bolt hole and tap new threads and you’re good to go.
I really enjoy your videos. I learn even though I don't know squat about cars. Was wondering if you could tell me is $265 plus tax a fair price for a power steering and serpentine belt change on a 98 Nissan Maxima? Seems pretty steep. Even I know belts don't cost that much. Thanks in advance.
+BellaBluu I wouldnt know- I've not been to a shop or dealer in many years
That's too much. That's ridiculous, a serpentine belt is only $25. Stay away from dealers unless you have a warranty. Dealers tend to over charge. Go to either a DIY mechanic, that you trust of course, or a mechanic that owns his own shop. You have to also consider the labor of the job. Some charge $75-$100 an hour.
DEFINITELY GREAT JOB
Thank u man
No balance shaft on that one. My 2000 accord F23A4 is a lot different.
Didn't know about the bottom mark??, thanks
👍
Thnk you very much 👍
Thanks good mechanic
The kerning! the kerning! THE KERNING!!! THE KERNING!!! AHHHH!!!!!
***** HAHAHAHA!!! Yeah I didn't realize that until after editing sorry- It drove me crazy too!!!
If the timing is just a hair off top dead center before removing the old belt, can you turn it clockwise (backwards) just a hair to align the marks? or do you have to turn counterclockwise at all times? I noticed you backtracked the crank by a hair which is why I asked. Thanks so much for this very nice video!
properly done the timing will be exact and visually obvious. If you have to turn counterclockwise you generate slack in the belt so I instead just advance 720 degree exactly.
your oil pan are missing 2 nuts at 7:02
Yes of course. how do you think I got the timing cover off, silly?????
+Schrodingers I think you missed my point there are 2 nuts that hold the oil pan had nothing to do with timing belt
You obviously have never done this job before. They have EVERYTHING to do with the belt. How else would you get the timing cover off since it fits over those studs and is secured with the 2 nuts????
Armchair mechanics.
+Schrodingers Box believe me my friend check again at 7:04 l talking about 2 nuts that hold the oil pan the bolts down from oil pump to the pan that nuts are missing and I see it because I working on my like 5 hours ago that is why I know, I am not talking about those bolts that hold the timing belt cover.
Then you should redo yours correctly.
My Litmus test is forget it . If it needs a water pump or a timing belts spend the thousand dollars or junk it
then why watch videos on DIY car repair if you're just gonna have some one else do the work or junk it? Makes no sense to me man!
Good
Hey Bro can you make your video like Chrisfix !
I don’t know what that means sorry.
I have the same car... I recently changed my timing belt.. While changing, i noticed that the old belt was not alligned.. It was half teeth advanced. Now when i am trying to install it in total alignment, it either goes half teeth retard or advance..
What could be the reason and what's the solution of this problem???
Its tricky- this happens to me too- the trick is you have to set the crankshaft advanced just enought teeth so it ends in the correct position when tension is applied. Sometimes takes me a few attempts but the marks will line up exactly when done correctly.
I'm still having trouble with this point. I'm being told the head is warped. I feel like the timing is still off. replaced the head gasket as well. Any help 🙏. Thnx
Did you measure compression before replacing the belt? Are you can and crank positions correlated?
I think the replaced head gasket should be of the same height as the original. If the height of the gasket is more, this problem will occur.. at least, that's what I think.
How do you get his email address?
Lol litness test nice!
So instead of going to tech school, how would an individual learn to do things? I opened tires, started to change oil, did brakes, struts and not much by going over videos.
There's no alternative to experience. There are people out there atleast me who benefits on seeing of opening of water pump. Ha
One has to start somewhere. Even you started from zero once.
I won't be forcing you to make videos, it's your channel. Even the crummiest videos have views, likes
Since you are not paying for storage of videos, shoot and upload, stating informal/uncut
nhz013 The trick is to learn the theory of operation and then ALL cars make sense. Every car I ever see is always the first time I have seen that make and model (this one in the video is my first VTEC in fact) but the idea is not to learn how to replace a water pump on a 2001 Honda. The idea is if you know all about water pump function an d mechanism you can change one on any car.
It's like "learn to fish" instead of "get a fish". Once you do that, all cars are virtually the same. In fact you see the differences and figure them out yourself because you know they still have to meet some type of common function.
It's enlightmenment over experience.
definitely. kindly take the time of making more videos at a more frequent rate.
i think like this, if somebody can make it, i can learn about it
thnx
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