Thank you very much for this video. Mine just needed the Carb cleaned but I never woulda gotten the fuel lines replaced correctly without your video for reference. Thank you!!! Have had my unit for like 6 years - extremely light usage though. First time I've had to wrench on it but it hasn't worked with choke off for a few years. Like new, now!!!!
Just found out one of the bolts on the carburetor plate/standoff (before the boot) pulled through its hole and destroyed the plate. Needless to say this video is a lifesaver. Thank you for posting!
Lenny, thanks for the video. Its been awhile since I attempted a small engine repair and this video made it easy. I had the same carb boot issue you described.
I just took mine apart this morning because it had a vibration at full throttle. I was thinking the 4 crankcase bolts were loose, but it turns out the 2 vertical bolts holding the intake to the bottom half of the crankcase were loose. I also discovered the spark plug wire was just about chewed in half, probably from rubbing on the plastic case near it. So I dremeled out a few relief cuts lol and put it all back together. So far so good! Thanks for sharing your video, your apparent general lack of caring is what I aspire to achieve one day. Kinda like Zen or something. Lol
This is by far the best how to video I've ever seen in my life! (it's also funny because I drink brain fuel too!) The compression was shot in mine and I opted to buy a new one. My dad took it to a guy he knows that fixes them and was told it was a gonner because the compression was shot. He didn't charge for the diagnosis, so he earned my business and I bought a new Tanaka blower from him. But now what do I do to thank my dad? I figure out how to put in a new cylinder and piston and fix my old Husqvarna to give to him on Father's Day since he only has a corded blower. Thanks so much for this video Lenny, and may your Coors Light be forever cold my friend. I should have a happy dad on Father's Day thanks to you! :)
Good video. I have a 125BV and really like it. About last year it started making a higher pitched sound a WOT and more vibration. It still starts 3-4 pulls which it always did cold. But after watching your video, I went out to see what model I had, there is grey colored oil on the bottom of the blower.. and when I rubbed it, its definitely metallic... so looks like I'm losing my top end. I'll re-watch the video and get a rebuild kit. It's a 2013 I believe, probably use it 20 hours a year.
Sorry you hate t.he blower so much. Mine broke down yesterday and I am grateful for this video. Thank you very much. Something must have come loose so I have to go in and figure out whether it is repairable or whatever the dingus is that broke off destroyed other parts and I have to buy new ones or whatever. You know what I mean. However, for the money, it's been a pretty good blower for me and reliable since I don't use it that often. You want a shitty blower, get one of those B&D 20V cordless blowers like my wife loves. Works every fifteen minutes till the battery runs down and a third grader with a paper towel tube could blow leaves harder.
Mine is over 11 hrs old. No more compression. Found a new short block on e bay today. Let’s see if I can do this, piece o cake. I hope, thanks fo the video.
Sir, this is a nice video. I’m not sure I would spend $80 to fix a $100-120 blower, but to each his own. (I spent $25 on Ebay for a carb, coil, filters, spark plug, & fuel line). However, I think these are unfortunately built to be disposable. Hate to say it, but most consumer grade products tend to be that way now days. I bought a Stihl professional grade blower and couldn’t be happier.
Nice video. I've had mine for about 10 years. It's not running like it used to so I've been looking at new blowers (I'd like a backpack blower). It's vibrating more than usual and it's down on power. Anyway, maybe I'll just take it apart and see if I can find out if anything is loose or worn or broken. Thanks!
Patrick Saueressig thanks for the comment. I hope you have good luck with yours. It's definitely worth getting the carb adjuster screw driver. I got mine in a set from Amazon for like $16.
Used to sell laen and garden equipment at Sears. Always sold people the pre mixed fuel because it was ethanol free, meaning it wont destroy the fuel lines after two years. Haven't had to replace any fuel lines in years.
I always put a little 1184 on boots, where the connect to the cylinder and on the standoff. This makes sure they will not leak, later. A very light coat is sufficient.
Thanks for the video Lenny, question for you. I just disassembled my blower, and want to know what I should use to clean my carburetor with? Also, the two gaskets on either side of the carburetor seem fine, do i need to replace them?
I have had my 126B for 3.5 years and have full the hell out of it. All this with an incorrectly originally assembled carb, intake manifold and carb bolts. The idiot at Husqvarna who assembled it did not put the carb bolts in their respective flats on the intake manifold, standoff block or thermal insulating block - whatever you want to call it. This caused a tremendous gas leak between the intake manifold and the carb. The inside of the cases were covered with two cycle grime and grease. Symptoms were a air filter box that would not stay tight and would move when you primed it. I replaced the intake boot, standoff and sealed everything up with 1184. The standoff block was also not securely tightened to the crankcase pan. It is, now and I picked up almost double compression after the repair. Had I not been usin Stihl Ultra oil in my gas I am sure I would have lost the cylinder, piston, bearings and seals.
Thank you Lenny for this video. My 125B had zero compression all of the sudden, so I ordered a new head and the piston+ring. None of the original parts looked too bad with the naked eye, but I put all the new stuff on since I had it. I'm still getting zero compression though. What else could I look for as a cause while I'm taking it all apart again?
Have you put a compression gauge on it or just going by feel? With a new piston and cylinder it will take about 5 tanks through it before it breaks in and the rings seat. Compression should go up after that. First off though you gotta figure out why it blew up in the first place. Air leak, no oil, lean carburetor adjustment, carbon scoring?
@@paulmau6106 Thanks for replying! This ended up being pilot error in a few places. I used the rubber adapter on the compression tester instead of the threaded one and got ~80psi. My original ring/piston were good! So I wasted time & money replacing those but at least it was a learning experience. I had the high adjuster on the carb set wayyy to lean. Once I opened that up, it started right up. I traced the root of my problem back to bad gas! I guess my Tru Fuel had sat a bit too long.
Most people that complain about these don't understand how to adjust carbs. The EPA is to thank for how lean these machines are set from the factory. Husqvarna, and any other brand has to comply with these regulations in order to keep the emissions down. The leaner the carburetor is set (less fuel more air) the lower the emissions. Therefore after the engine gets broke in (or in some cases straight our of the box) the blowers, chainsaws, weed whips, etc need to be set richer. Now adays you have to buy a special tool to adjust the carburetor. Depending on what style jets are on it, you might need to buy a set if you have different brands or equipment. Ive seen people also use a wire crimp on a Philips screwdriver. Moral of the story is, richen up your carburetor jets if it becomes hard to start, won't stay running, etc. You will go broke and drive yourself nuts replacing fuel filters, carburetors, plugs when 9 out of 10 times the carb needs adjusted on these newer units. All my Husqvarna products I keep tuned every year and I've never had a fuel related issue. Also, run ethanol free rec gas with good quality 2 stroke oil and that machine will last many years.
This was a very helpful video...and entertaining. If anyone has a suggestion for me I'm having an issue when I try to put the new piston ring on the new cylinder...I've broken two of them trying to slide them into the slot. Any suggestions?..
What was the bad boot causing the blower to do? I'm having trouble when I go to run position it runs great for 5 min then wants to die. I can run it all day on half choke tho. Thanks
Cool video. I had a question. I change the gas lines and a new carb on mine ... when I pump gas with the bulb. The carb starts leaking and it’s a new carb too. I tried the original carb and it started leaking as well?
Lenny, Great Video! Question: mine just started an issue. Starts with no problem, once I place it in half choke and pull, she starts immediately BUT it sounds like FULL throttle being depressed. Once I place it in the RUN position, it conks out immediately....Any idea ??? thinking a carb replacement, but with this being a 2008 model, dont know if I should toss good money after bad...? Thanks in Advance Len
stma111, I would take the carb off and clean it real good. There’s a small screen you’ll find if you take the carb apart. Make sure that’s clean. Then make sure the rubber boot between the carb and the cylinder is not cracked. If all that’s is good, You may need to adjust the carb. You will need a special driver for that which I recommend spending a few bucks on. I got a whole set with a bunch of different styles for 16 bucks on amazon. Well worth it.
Sounds like to me it's the gas. Don't know if you use non-rthanol fuel or not but I've learned you absolutely should not ever use ethanol (E-10) fuel in them. It's quite hard on 2 cycle motors and carbs.
Michael Nabers, if the intake screen on the carb is clean, there might be a fuel line or fuel filter problem. Cracked or dry rotted fuel lines are kinda common. Otherwise you might want to get one of those special screwdrivers and try adjusting the screws on the carb. That is ultimately what I had to do.
Tinkering with this same blower just to see if I could fix it. Tested compression and it was shot, found compression ring broke in 3 pieces. Replaced compression ring and now I have no spark. Coil is gapped @.010. Does this blower have a timing issue? I have the flywheel aligned with the key way. Does the flywheel need too be at a 0° setting?
Your new piston ring may have worked with the original cylinder if you had lightly honed the cylinder, unless your piston had been burned or you damaged it by cleaning it. I hope you replaced the seals when you replaced the other parts. They come with a new gasket set. I never go into any two cycle engine without replacing all seals and gasketsvwith new oem stuff.
Hey Lenny C, your video is one of the best most comprehensive I have come across for this Blower. Thanks man 👍 I have a question, when adjusting the carburetor, after screwing the two adjusting screws all the way in, how many turns should i open each of them to so i can start up and do final adjustment?
Good video Lenny, i have that same reliable blower, mine won't start either, has spark at plug, cleaned crab, comp 105psi, won't even pop off with starting fluid, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and you would be helping save the planet by not tossing this reliable blower in the trash. Thank you , Ruben
I don't know what's going on with yours but I think mine has a bad seal on the crank shaft because it's leaking oil all over the place and it only runs half choked. This reliable piece of shit is about to get tossed out of a moving vehicle.
Lenny C - great stuff. Do you fish? Probly. Hey I have a diagnosis question. Mine has run just great for 7 years and I use it weekly in the summers. It just started running poorly this summer and now I have to run it full throttle just to keep it running at about 50% of normal full power rpm. letting off the throttle and it just dies. Is this a compression problem? Not a small engine guy. duh. But I'm pretty smart on Alaska King Salmon fishing.
I'm not a fisherman. I used to do a little fishing, mostly just drinking though. I'm not a small engine expert by any stretch of the imagination but I do fuck around with a lot of stuff. My first instinct is to attribute your problem to the thing just being a piece of shit. Again, not an expert. Try pulling the carb apart and cleaning the little intake screen. I've had to do that more than a couple times. Fish on!
Mine gives me fits. It starts up fresh ok. Then after I shut it off and an hour or so later no go at all. Your vid will be playing as I tear it down. The boot thing sounds as though that may be the issue.
Same identical problem with mine. Just quit starting. After new plug and ignition coil, still wouldn't start. You would think if I visibly saw a good spark and sprayed starting fluid in it, it would surely start? Nope. I'm baffled. The compression by 'thumb test', didn't feel weak, but then I'm not sure what it should've felt like. So........looks like my next option looks like piston/cylinder swap. Don't really care if I spend more than its worth -- I like the challenge. Cross my fangers...........
Amazon. Search "Hipa Set-of-8 Carburetor Adjustment Tool Kit" It's like $11 and you get a bunch of different ones. They're good enough for occasional use.
spent a lot of money on one of these brand new a few years ago. the thing worked for a year then magicaly it just wouldnt start. bought a $100 poulan pro thats lasted about 3 years. probably going to open up the 125b and try to make it work.
The cracked intake boot was the cause of your problems. It was running lean which smoked your jug and piston. I have a similar problem in my 125B is running lean. I have a new boot, standoff, gasket and carb kit for it plus new fuel lines and filter. I will bet you noticed the air filter cover never would stay tight and wobbled a bit when you primed it. That, was my first indication that I had a problem. My bet is the phenolic standoff is cracked or broken, which has comprised the intake boot.
Philo Beddoe, it was 2 or 3 years old at the time I think. I recently had a similar issue with my chainsaw that made me think my gas mixture was a potential problem. I would recommend using a quality oil and making sure your mixture is right.
awesome thanks!! I used the same gas I use with my Husqvarna trimmer which I have had for 3 years not with zero issues. Every year she starts right up with no problems. Just makes me worried cuz of all the issues and problems I keep reading.
I think however too, when I got the trimer, I didn't get any oil with it. So went to farm and fleet and got a bottle of the brigs and Stratton oil. so maybe they have bad oil? who knows. but I like what used from my blower so far.
Philo Beddoe, I also am going to start mixing my gas in smaller batches so it doesn't sit around as long. That may have also contributed to my problems.
Very funny listening to u moaning, and groaning, belching like a hero. Sweat dripping off your nose, just cause your using a screw driver vs. drill. Your a riot 👍😂 I'm just a little ocd and noticed you didn't gap the ignition coil. If that was me, guaranteed that would get me.
Have had mine for 10 years and it still runs flawlessly. These are high quality. Had a Homelite before that that lasted for 2 years. Yours looks really filthy though, are you using this for a business?
Hey Lenny i own the same bad boy. Bought it Jan 2019 and the engine seized/jammed just last week (17 months ) Guess I'll have to do a tear down myself 'cuz repairing it at a Engine store might go over my purchasing price. Husqvarna hasnt responded to my emails......bloody Swedes lol
Good job. Thsnks for sharing.. I agree this model Husqvarna is a piece of sh!t! I have two and every so often I'm replacing and repairing something 😢 Currently both won't start, so it may be similar compression issue. These are no more than 5 yrs old. I had an Echo for about 18 yrs and it NEVER had an issue, how sorry I am for giving it away when I got the pieces of husqvarna sh!t.
Use ONLY ethanol free gas in these small engines. The ethanol eats the lines and they run like crap. I use only pure gas and its never given me a problem.
Are you using shitty gas with ethanol in it? That ruined my last blower and trimmer...Btw...Good on ya with the Colorado Kool Aid...I drink the same..My Husky runs flawlessly with the right fuel
Sean Post, as far as I know, gas without ethanol is not easily found in these parts. Although I've never actually tried to find it. I was under the impression all gas had some in it. I think the consumer grade Huskys are just junky. It works good now though but for how long????
I thought I was dumb for wasting my time and money fixing the piece of shit, you took it to a whole other level. BTW, I ended up shit-canning the thing and bought an Echo. So far, I'm happy.
Thank you very much for this video. Mine just needed the Carb cleaned but I never woulda gotten the fuel lines replaced correctly without your video for reference. Thank you!!! Have had my unit for like 6 years - extremely light usage though. First time I've had to wrench on it but it hasn't worked with choke off for a few years. Like new, now!!!!
Just found out one of the bolts on the carburetor plate/standoff (before the boot) pulled through its hole and destroyed the plate. Needless to say this video is a lifesaver. Thank you for posting!
I found about 8 of these in the dumpster at work. Grabbed one for myself and the rest for my friends. Thanks for your video.
Bang Bang Bang, lol, dumpster sounds like a good place for them.
BTW, where do you work?
Lenny, thanks for the video. Its been awhile since I attempted a small engine repair and this video made it easy. I had the same carb boot issue you described.
Your video helped me get my Huskie to start working again. Thanks.
I just took mine apart this morning because it had a vibration at full throttle. I was thinking the 4 crankcase bolts were loose, but it turns out the 2 vertical bolts holding the intake to the bottom half of the crankcase were loose. I also discovered the spark plug wire was just about chewed in half, probably from rubbing on the plastic case near it. So I dremeled out a few relief cuts lol and put it all back together. So far so good! Thanks for sharing your video, your apparent general lack of caring is what I aspire to achieve one day. Kinda like Zen or something. Lol
He’s a masters it seems
This is by far the best how to video I've ever seen in my life! (it's also funny because I drink brain fuel too!) The compression was shot in mine and I opted to buy a new one. My dad took it to a guy he knows that fixes them and was told it was a gonner because the compression was shot. He didn't charge for the diagnosis, so he earned my business and I bought a new Tanaka blower from him. But now what do I do to thank my dad? I figure out how to put in a new cylinder and piston and fix my old Husqvarna to give to him on Father's Day since he only has a corded blower. Thanks so much for this video Lenny, and may your Coors Light be forever cold my friend. I should have a happy dad on Father's Day thanks to you! :)
Thanks for the kind words and may your mountains always be blue as well.
Good video. Just a note the flywheel nut on the fan side is left hand thread!
Thank you, I just fixed my 125B and it now works fine... fuel lines again...
Good video. I have a 125BV and really like it. About last year it started making a higher pitched sound a WOT and more vibration. It still starts 3-4 pulls which it always did cold. But after watching your video, I went out to see what model I had, there is grey colored oil on the bottom of the blower.. and when I rubbed it, its definitely metallic... so looks like I'm losing my top end. I'll re-watch the video and get a rebuild kit. It's a 2013 I believe, probably use it 20 hours a year.
Thanks for spending the time to do the video. Any ideas how to test the coil?
Sorry you hate t.he blower so much. Mine broke down yesterday and I am grateful for this video. Thank you very much. Something must have come loose so I have to go in and figure out whether it is repairable or whatever the dingus is that broke off destroyed other parts and I have to buy new ones or whatever. You know what I mean.
However, for the money, it's been a pretty good blower for me and reliable since I don't use it that often. You want a shitty blower, get one of those B&D 20V cordless blowers like my wife loves. Works every fifteen minutes till the battery runs down and a third grader with a paper towel tube could blow leaves harder.
Really good video. Great commentary. Thanks.
Mine is over 11 hrs old. No more compression. Found a new short block on e bay today. Let’s see if I can do this, piece o cake. I hope, thanks fo the video.
Sir, this is a nice video. I’m not sure I would spend $80 to fix a $100-120 blower, but to each his own. (I spent $25 on Ebay for a carb, coil, filters, spark plug, & fuel line).
However, I think these are unfortunately built to be disposable. Hate to say it, but most consumer grade products tend to be that way now days.
I bought a Stihl professional grade blower and couldn’t be happier.
Nice video. I've had mine for about 10 years. It's not running like it used to so I've been looking at new blowers (I'd like a backpack blower). It's vibrating more than usual and it's down on power. Anyway, maybe I'll just take it apart and see if I can find out if anything is loose or worn or broken. Thanks!
Patrick Saueressig thanks for the comment. I hope you have good luck with yours. It's definitely worth getting the carb adjuster screw driver. I got mine in a set from Amazon for like $16.
Used to sell laen and garden equipment at Sears. Always sold people the pre mixed fuel because it was ethanol free, meaning it wont destroy the fuel lines after two years. Haven't had to replace any fuel lines in years.
I always put a little 1184 on boots, where the connect to the cylinder and on the standoff. This makes sure they will not leak, later. A very light coat is sufficient.
He sounds like a cross between Ray Liota and Andrew Dice Clay.
Thanks for the video Lenny, question for you. I just disassembled my blower, and want to know what I should use to clean my carburetor with? Also, the two gaskets on either side of the carburetor seem fine, do i need to replace them?
Mine sounds like it has marbles in the crankcase but runs decent. I do notice the carb seems loose but is tight
I have had my 126B for 3.5 years and have full the hell out of it. All this with an incorrectly originally assembled carb, intake manifold and carb bolts. The idiot at Husqvarna who assembled it did not put the carb bolts in their respective flats on the intake manifold, standoff block or thermal insulating block - whatever you want to call it. This caused a tremendous gas leak between the intake manifold and the carb. The inside of the cases were covered with two cycle grime and grease. Symptoms were a air filter box that would not stay tight and would move when you primed it. I replaced the intake boot, standoff and sealed everything up with 1184. The standoff block was also not securely tightened to the crankcase pan. It is, now and I picked up almost double compression after the repair. Had I not been usin Stihl Ultra oil in my gas I am sure I would have lost the cylinder, piston, bearings and seals.
Thank you Lenny for this video. My 125B had zero compression all of the sudden, so I ordered a new head and the piston+ring. None of the original parts looked too bad with the naked eye, but I put all the new stuff on since I had it. I'm still getting zero compression though. What else could I look for as a cause while I'm taking it all apart again?
Have you put a compression gauge on it or just going by feel? With a new piston and cylinder it will take about 5 tanks through it before it breaks in and the rings seat. Compression should go up after that. First off though you gotta figure out why it blew up in the first place. Air leak, no oil, lean carburetor adjustment, carbon scoring?
@@paulmau6106 Thanks for replying! This ended up being pilot error in a few places. I used the rubber adapter on the compression tester instead of the threaded one and got ~80psi. My original ring/piston were good! So I wasted time & money replacing those but at least it was a learning experience. I had the high adjuster on the carb set wayyy to lean. Once I opened that up, it started right up. I traced the root of my problem back to bad gas! I guess my Tru Fuel had sat a bit too long.
Most people that complain about these don't understand how to adjust carbs. The EPA is to thank for how lean these machines are set from the factory. Husqvarna, and any other brand has to comply with these regulations in order to keep the emissions down. The leaner the carburetor is set (less fuel more air) the lower the emissions. Therefore after the engine gets broke in (or in some cases straight our of the box) the blowers, chainsaws, weed whips, etc need to be set richer. Now adays you have to buy a special tool to adjust the carburetor. Depending on what style jets are on it, you might need to buy a set if you have different brands or equipment. Ive seen people also use a wire crimp on a Philips screwdriver. Moral of the story is, richen up your carburetor jets if it becomes hard to start, won't stay running, etc. You will go broke and drive yourself nuts replacing fuel filters, carburetors, plugs when 9 out of 10 times the carb needs adjusted on these newer units. All my Husqvarna products I keep tuned every year and I've never had a fuel related issue. Also, run ethanol free rec gas with good quality 2 stroke oil and that machine will last many years.
Were the bolts on the fan and flywheel reverse thread. Also use oil for putting engines back together.
Great video!
This was a very helpful video...and entertaining. If anyone has a suggestion for me I'm having an issue when I try to put the new piston ring on the new cylinder...I've broken two of them trying to slide them into the slot. Any suggestions?..
What was the bad boot causing the blower to do? I'm having trouble when I go to run position it runs great for 5 min then wants to die. I can run it all day on half choke tho. Thanks
Cool video. I had a question. I change the gas lines and a new carb on mine ... when I pump gas with the bulb. The carb starts leaking and it’s a new carb too. I tried the original carb and it started leaking as well?
You might have hooked the hoses up backward on the bulb.
Lenny, Great Video! Question: mine just started an issue. Starts with no problem, once I place it in half choke and pull, she starts immediately BUT it sounds like FULL throttle being depressed. Once I place it in the RUN position, it conks out immediately....Any idea ??? thinking a carb replacement, but with this being a 2008 model, dont know if I should toss good money after bad...? Thanks in Advance Len
stma111, I would take the carb off and clean it real good. There’s a small screen you’ll find if you take the carb apart. Make sure that’s clean. Then make sure the rubber boot between the carb and the cylinder is not cracked. If all that’s is good, You may need to adjust the carb. You will need a special driver for that which I recommend spending a few bucks on. I got a whole set with a bunch of different styles for 16 bucks on amazon. Well worth it.
Sounds like to me it's the gas. Don't know if you use non-rthanol fuel or not but I've learned you absolutely should not ever use ethanol (E-10) fuel in them. It's quite hard on 2 cycle motors and carbs.
I have the same machine, and the same problem waiting on my parts.
I had 2 of these same problems. So now I have echo 0 problems in 4 years
I also bought a new echo early this spring. I was happy to throw away the old 125b.
Mine is doing the same thing cleaned carb. Put on a new spark plug and did a compression test. All looks good but still won't crank
Michael Nabers, if the intake screen on the carb is clean, there might be a fuel line or fuel filter problem. Cracked or dry rotted fuel lines are kinda common. Otherwise you might want to get one of those special screwdrivers and try adjusting the screws on the carb. That is ultimately what I had to do.
You try using ethanol free gas?
Good video, but i was worried for that beer the whole time.
No need to worry, I'm an expert
Same issue with my 2018 125bv.40lbs compression
Tinkering with this same blower just to see if I could fix it. Tested compression and it was shot, found compression ring broke in 3 pieces. Replaced compression ring and now I have no spark. Coil is gapped @.010. Does this blower have a timing issue? I have the flywheel aligned with the key way. Does the flywheel need too be at a 0° setting?
i can tell you've had that thing apart a few times,was thinking of buying one but now i'm a bit undecided 😳
I don't recommend it.
Your new piston ring may have worked with the original cylinder if you had lightly honed the cylinder, unless your piston had been burned or you damaged it by cleaning it. I hope you replaced the seals when you replaced the other parts. They come with a new gasket set. I never go into any two cycle engine without replacing all seals and gasketsvwith new oem stuff.
Hey Lenny C, your video is one of the best most comprehensive I have come across for this Blower. Thanks man 👍
I have a question, when adjusting the carburetor, after screwing the two adjusting screws all the way in, how many turns should i open each of them to so i can start up and do final adjustment?
I would start wit a full turn out on each but your results may vary. Thanks for the comment, sorry for the delayed response.
@@lennyc624 IDK if that's a Zama carb but if so try 2 turns out for both to start otherwise too lean has been my experience.
Is there a clutch lining in the leaf blower motor?
I subbed, that was informative and entertaining.... Lol
knighthawk86855, much appreciated.
Good video Lenny, i have that same reliable blower, mine won't start either, has spark at plug, cleaned crab, comp 105psi, won't even pop off with starting fluid, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and you would be helping save the planet by not tossing this reliable blower in the trash. Thank you , Ruben
I don't know what's going on with yours but I think mine has a bad seal on the crank shaft because it's leaking oil all over the place and it only runs half choked. This reliable piece of shit is about to get tossed out of a moving vehicle.
Lenny C - great stuff. Do you fish? Probly. Hey I have a diagnosis question. Mine has run just great for 7 years and I use it weekly in the summers. It just started running poorly this summer and now I have to run it full throttle just to keep it running at about 50% of normal full power rpm. letting off the throttle and it just dies. Is this a compression problem? Not a small engine guy. duh. But I'm pretty smart on Alaska King Salmon fishing.
I'm not a fisherman. I used to do a little fishing, mostly just drinking though. I'm not a small engine expert by any stretch of the imagination but I do fuck around with a lot of stuff. My first instinct is to attribute your problem to the thing just being a piece of shit. Again, not an expert. Try pulling the carb apart and cleaning the little intake screen. I've had to do that more than a couple times.
Fish on!
Mine gives me fits. It starts up fresh ok. Then after I shut it off and an hour or so later no go at all. Your vid will be playing as I tear it down. The boot thing sounds as though that may be the issue.
How long did the rebuild last?
Has anyone noticed you put the carb boot on backwards? If it works, it works!
You the man!
Good job :)
Good job lenny c
There's more in labor to work with there than what it's worth. I'll buy a new one before I do that. Nice work though. This Bud's for you!
did you actually test the compression before you tore it all a part ?
Yeah, with my thumb.
Same identical problem with mine. Just quit starting. After new plug and ignition coil, still wouldn't start. You would think if I visibly saw a good spark and sprayed starting fluid in it, it would surely start? Nope. I'm baffled. The compression by 'thumb test', didn't feel weak, but then I'm not sure what it should've felt like. So........looks like my next option looks like piston/cylinder swap. Don't really care if I spend more than its worth -- I like the challenge. Cross my fangers...........
It's worth it for the challenge but that's about it. That and maybe having an excuse to drink a few beers out in the garage. Good luck.
@@lennyc624 It can have spark but be outta time so check that you haven't sheared your key on the flywheel/crank.
❤️ that attitude
Hey thinks for the info. Your funny fixer upper!
Lenny can you please tell where you got the "splined" tool for adjusting the jet on your carburetor?
Amazon. Search "Hipa Set-of-8 Carburetor Adjustment Tool Kit"
It's like $11 and you get a bunch of different ones. They're good enough for occasional use.
@@lennyc624 thank you very much Lenny C. And thanks for the tutorial 🇺🇲
well .. what can you say about that?
spent a lot of money on one of these brand new a few years ago. the thing worked for a year then magicaly it just wouldnt start. bought a $100 poulan pro thats lasted about 3 years. probably going to open up the 125b and try to make it work.
If you don't mind spending money on it for the sake of tinkering with it, go for it. Buying the Poulan was probably a good move.
I have the same 2 hammers that you have.
You're supposed to use 90-plus octane according to the manufacturer
The cracked intake boot was the cause of your problems. It was running lean which smoked your jug and piston. I have a similar problem in my 125B is running lean. I have a new boot, standoff, gasket and carb kit for it plus new fuel lines and filter. I will bet you noticed the air filter cover never would stay tight and wobbled a bit when you primed it. That, was my first indication that I had a problem. My bet is the phenolic standoff is cracked or broken, which has comprised the intake boot.
how old is this 125B? I just got one for fathers day yesterday and it seems to be ok for me so far.
Philo Beddoe, it was 2 or 3 years old at the time I think. I recently had a similar issue with my chainsaw that made me think my gas mixture was a potential problem. I would recommend using a quality oil and making sure your mixture is right.
awesome thanks!! I used the same gas I use with my Husqvarna trimmer which I have had for 3 years not with zero issues. Every year she starts right up with no problems. Just makes me worried cuz of all the issues and problems I keep reading.
I think however too, when I got the trimer, I didn't get any oil with it. So went to farm and fleet and got a bottle of the brigs and Stratton oil. so maybe they have bad oil? who knows. but I like what used from my blower so far.
Philo Beddoe, I also am going to start mixing my gas in smaller batches so it doesn't sit around as long. That may have also contributed to my problems.
Very funny listening to u moaning, and groaning, belching like a hero. Sweat dripping off your nose, just cause your using a screw driver vs. drill. Your a riot 👍😂 I'm just a little ocd and noticed you didn't gap the ignition coil. If that was me, guaranteed that would get me.
15$ carb kit and maybe fuel lines but hey let's rebuild it xD
Have had mine for 10 years and it still runs flawlessly. These are high quality. Had a Homelite before that that lasted for 2 years. Yours looks really filthy though, are you using this for a business?
no
if you think his is filthy, you should see mine
Cheers🍻
She blows like a pro .👍
Hey Lenny i own the same bad boy. Bought it Jan 2019 and the engine seized/jammed just last week (17 months ) Guess I'll have to do a tear down myself 'cuz repairing it at a Engine store might go over my purchasing price. Husqvarna hasnt responded to my emails......bloody Swedes lol
This blower sucks. Just had it 4 6 months dont start. It was working fine then just stop working tookit apart and found nothing wrong. So mad
"Husk-a-varna" lol..
Good job. Thsnks for sharing..
I agree this model Husqvarna is a piece of sh!t!
I have two and every so often I'm replacing and repairing something 😢
Currently both won't start, so it may be similar compression issue. These are no more than 5 yrs old.
I had an Echo for about 18 yrs and it NEVER had an issue, how sorry I am for giving it away when I got the pieces of husqvarna sh!t.
Use ONLY ethanol free gas in these small engines. The ethanol eats the lines and they run like crap. I use only pure gas and its never given me a problem.
You are a pro Lenny.
A pro drunk maybe
Cheers !!!!
Sounds to me like the major issue for all of the problems was due to bad fuel.
Are you using shitty gas with ethanol in it? That ruined my last blower and trimmer...Btw...Good on ya with the Colorado Kool Aid...I drink the same..My Husky runs flawlessly with the right fuel
Sean Post, as far as I know, gas without ethanol is not easily found in these parts. Although I've never actually tried to find it. I was under the impression all gas had some in it. I think the consumer grade Huskys are just junky. It works good now though but for how long????
Lenny C if it is hard to find non ethanol in your area..Try Tru Fuel..hopefully your problems will be over...cheers
Sean Post, I'll look into that. Thanks
A piece of junk. You got that right. Why in THE Hell I bought another one when my first one shit the bed, I'll never know.
I thought I was dumb for wasting my time and money fixing the piece of shit, you took it to a whole other level. BTW, I ended up shit-canning the thing and bought an Echo. So far, I'm happy.
You would be a lot more helpful if you called the parts by their right names. They are carburetor jets, not dowhackies.
The sauce is not helping your body temperature.😁
Obviously don't know what you're doing
What a dolt.
Rob Howard, I think what you meant to say was ”what a super cool dude"
Stupid auto-correct