Why is the Klamper Disc Brake Single Sided?
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- We've had a few people ask us why our Klamper Disc Brake is actuated from one side instead of both. The short answer is POWER. The long answer is, well.... this video! But it's only 4 minutes and 37 seconds long, so check it out!
Thank you for the insights! Love what you guys do, you make some beautiful components.
Man I love all of this. "Tie Dye Friday", Althea being Pauls's favorite Dead song, and information on some incredible brakes I just bought, raddddd.
Paul Klamper, Equal, BB7 Road SL, SHIMANO CX77, I think they are all the best mechanical disc calipers. They are all Signle Sided.
Sure but why not design it like the brake that rhymes with fire? a lever that compresses both sides.
Out of curiosity. for a more rigid caliper design? Some arguments say the outer pad will wear faster since it spends more time on the rotor.
Oh my gosh that was a great explanation of why your single piston design can offer better braking power than dual piston cable brakes. It’s rare for google to push me a video I liked this much.
I think your design efforts could also use a few follow up text FAQs on your website which I’ll check out later. 1) do the two brake pads wear mostly evenly over their life? 2) is the brake pad adjustment easier or harder with your design vs other single piston designs (Avid BB7) or dual piston designs (TRP Spyke)? 3) are there objective test results on pad force vs lever force for some standard cable levers compatible for V brakes (long pull) that could be used to compare brake designs? 4) is it easy even if rotors have a little wobble to open pads up enough to avoid rubbing (i.e., what is max pad opening? I’ll send this as an email later with maybe a few more Qs. I’m now leaning towards your brakes over the TRP for replacing the horrendous Avid hydros on my 2014 Salsa Horsethief.
As a bike mechanic, I can tell you from personal experience that the drive side pad adjustment on a TRP Spyke or Spyre on the rear is rather tricky. It's a 3mm allen wrench, deep enough that you can't use a ball end. Since most people have a rotor that is smaller than or the same size as their cassette, you can't fit the long end L-bend or T-handle allen wrench in. This means that you have to use the short end, with the long end of the L-bend ending up mixed in with the spokes. You can usually only get like 60 degrees of rotation in at a time.
The man has good taste in GD tunes. Althea is my favorite as well.
My kind of maniac!
What kind of klampers should i look at for Surly's 2019 midnight special? Do i need any special adapters?
I finally have my dream bike, Trek 1120 ! I bought two of your Klamper disc brake long pull post mount brakes. I need help getting the rear mounting figured out. Please please help. Trek says it’s a no go ! Your brake is king ! I need help ! Please can you help ?
Can these run with Centerlock rotors?? I am a larger rider, and will occasionally pull a Bob Trailer, or ride with panniers. Can Klampers take on that challenge? I have had no luck with multiple combos of hydraulic setups and I am don’t with them. I’m hoping Klampers are my solution.
Interesting info. I have a question that I have never found the answer to. The small set screws on many of the different caliper pad position adjusters. I watched another video on the Klamper and thought I saw the screws in a blip, possibly one on the inboard pad and one on the outboard pad. That video made no mention of the set screws. My question is how are those set screws intended to be used by the mfgr? Instructions covering those screws seems hard to come by.
Some say to loosen the set screw for adjusting and then retighten the screw. Other instructions make no mention of the screw during adjustment, making me think that the screw is possibly itself set at the factory and intended to simply apply a set amount of tension to the adjuster threads. Most of the set screws I've disassembled have a small slug of plastic at the end between the set screw and the adjuster threads. I see that plug being used to protect the adjuster threads but possibly to supply a slight tension to the adjuster? Sidenote: one caliper I dissembled (different brand) used a longer set screw and had no plastic plug. The set screw had been tightened into the adjuster and damaged the threads.
Does this video help?: ruclips.net/video/u7hOhOq3CVg/видео.html
@@PaulComponentEngineering Thank you. I watched the video, very informative. That ball plunger/detent groove is way more quality than the simple set screw that I have experienced.
Paul makes beautiful high quality unattainium parts....supply & demand dictates price & Im a cheap
bastard that buys 1st quality at discount or used...I wished Paul
would machine motorcycle parts.
paul does, you just have to be the motor 😘
Avid BB7s have always been single sided, and they still compete with plenty of big name hydraulic brakes out there.
Ef you Paul, I hate you... No, actually not true, my wallet does... 😂 Awesome product, as always 👍
If I don't care about modulation but want the most locking/holding power, should I use the short pull Love lever on a long pull caliper because of the increased leverage?
You'll get more force out of the brake, but pad clearance will be too small or the lever throw too long
nice Krampus...
woooooo hoooooo !
At 250 each I'll stick with Asian dual side. I love PC and USA made when I can but I don't see the benefit here