Discussing PolyMaker PolyTerra PLA Filament: Why it is so good?
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Special thanks to PolyMaker for sending me the rolls of PolyTerra PLA used in this video.
If you would like to purchase some PolyTerra, Polymaker has a 10% off coupon through Dec 31st. Use coupon code "MakeItWithCalvin."
polymaker.com/...
I am quite cynical when it comes to claims made by 3D printing companies with their filaments but this material really lived up to the claims made. If anyone has printed PLA, you know how difficult it can be to remove support material and this is where I found the filament really shines. It is as close to the supports falling off the model as you can get! Also, the more matte finish of the filament is a really nice touch as well as the commitment to the environment with recycled packaging and the durable cardboard spools used, and the 1 tree planted/spool commitment.
Overall, I am highly impressed with this filament and will be purchasing more in the future for personal projects. This has the potential to really change the filament market and revolutionize 3D printing in the coming years.
The organization in charge of planting the trees for every spool purchased:
onetreeplanted...
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A timely review. I was just reading about this stuff. Have you tried gluing or sanding it? If so, how did it perform?
I've tried gluing and sanding it. I use Gorilla super glue and it bonds really well. Sanding is not bad, the material is a bit soft so you'll kind of get that stringy stuff that gets stuck when you're sanding but at least it doesn't break off in chunks.
Yeah, I like the stuff too. However there is some broken logic: "filler ... is nice because it reduces the amount of resources needed..." most fillers - organic as well as inorganic come with a considerable ecological footprint (be it magnesite - 70% comes all the way from China, kaolin clay (also mostly mined/processed in China). When you use organic material, your end products aren't food safe any more - even though the filament might be. And high content of fillers always reduces the recyclability ... not very "eco" in my book. The main reason why we are seeing so many matte "eco" filaments these days is COST: filler is cheaper than resin - that's the real reason why we put filler in plastics. Eco-minded but hypocritical kids are the perfect target group for the resulting end product = "eco" filaments. I'm using the stuff because I like matte, muted colors, NOT because I'm a fan of the trendy narrative of sustainability and responsibility, because if I WAS, I'd build my stuff from wood, clay and straw!... (used to work in marketing for the #1 toy manufacturer in the Western world, now teaching materials for designers in college).
I just bought a spool for a specific color (sandstone with flecks) and Holly eff, it is simply… luxurious how smoothly this filament is going down, using it on my X1 Carbon with the built in preset for it, and with ironing it looks like injection molded parts. I’m a fan of
I just had been using exclusively Matterhackers Build series PLA, but since you had good results on the SWX1 I got a spool. After dialing the material in with a few test prints, I now have the best looking prints I've ever gotten off my printer. I tried and tried and tried to dial in the MH PLA to not get verticle rippling artifacts when looking down from the top on the sides of the print. I said, "it couldn't be the filament, I just need to tweak it more" but guess what! It was the filament! Thanks for this video, now I can relax and finally print some stuff, be happy with it, and not constantly messing with settings trying to make my prints look better! Keep up the good work, tips, reviews, and awesome projects!
Thanks, you prove my point to people that settings & filament make a huge difference on overall print quality. I never found MH Build consistent at all, it is "okay" for prototyping but... that's about it.
I like the cardboard. Thanks for the heads up. It's a cool idea but you don't have to go away from a rigid plastic to be environmentally friendly. I still use and refill my old @Printrbot spools. I just remove 3 screws, pull off one side of the spool, put the filament sample on and then reassemble the spool. Finally put the 3 screws back on and the spool is ready to use, again and again and again and again! Brook is always ahead of the curb with what he brings to market!
Yeah, I never tried the respool and heard mixed reviews but yeah it is a problem with many solutions. I personally prefer it on a spool but hey just me ;-). In the end, it is nice to see companies thinking long term about the impacts of their products and how to minimize them.
Are you aware of the master-spool¹-system?
I never used it, because I started to buy PLA on cardboard-spools from a german company and that’s environmentally fine for me.
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¹ ruclips.net/video/NtdcciXnfM8/видео.html
The only “plus” PLA I’ve found worth it, is Inland’s cold white, it is the most opaque most matte white I’ve ever used, the prints feel so matte and smooth even without ironing, and that opacity blocks out other colors printed underneath - which on a Bambu with AMS is a big concern (unless you’re doing lithophanes or hueforge of course)
Nice product and looking forward to the next videos.
Support removal tip: If nothing else works, a welding solder can work, especially if you have a 3D pen to fix it up after.
Been using polyterra almost exclusively for past year on two e5p's, one with DD microswiss other with DD hemera. At first I had great results, but layer adhesion is weak, it's brittle and breaks so easily.
I have been seeing a lot of comments about this, I may do a "follow up" video to see what, if anything, has changed.
@@MakeItWithCalvin that would be awesome! Another pet peeve I have is that their rolls aren't properly spooled. Even some budget brands do this correctly so our company was shocked when Polyterra came so messy out of the box. On a few occasions there ended up being a filament jam due to the spooling. Bit of an OCD thing but you know :P
I have the same issue with weak layer adhesion. higher temp and more flow helped, but not got it tweaked in yet.
My experience with this stuff is that it sucks. It under extrudes. It strings. It's garbage.
Really? Yet to experience that yet...
It took me a while to get a decent first layer and I've yet to get a good top layer. I like what they're doing and really want to support them, but if I can't get a decent print, I can't really get on the bandwagon. Like Michael, I had bad under extrusion so I had to increase my extrusion multiplier. I also was not getting enough "squish" on the first layer so I increased my first layer extrusion width. I also had to decrease my first layer speed pretty significantly. This is with a Bondtech BMG extruder in a direct drive setup.
@@joepasqua1751 what are your actual "settings" like speed/temp?
@@MakeItWithCalvin II’m getting decent prints now and I like the matte finish. To get this I slowed down the 1st layer to 20 mm/s. I tried a range of temps. Current is 210 / 205 for the extruder and 60 for the bed. I set the extrusion multiplier to 1.19 for just the first layer and upped infill/perimeter overlap to 30%. I tried a lot of combination of settings to get this to work. When I have more time I will back off more settings to see which are truly necessary. Polymaker advises that using Magigoo could obviate the need for some of these settings.
It's the best material I ever had! Only downside, it sticks to well.
I have been using a roll of this for the last few days. Not liking it at all. It is ridiculously soft and has layer adhesion so bad that its like snapping a potato chip. Have tried a range of temperatures. Next I will give the roll a thorough dry in the filament dryer, then try again. So far not looking good.
To be fair I have not touched this for a long time, but I have heard lots of mixed stories about the filament and that's a bummer honestly. I remember for a while there, there was a huge problem with contaminated PLA and I wonder if that's leftover from that era?
Anyone tried the PolyMaker PolyTerra filament successfully? I can't find temperature or layer settings that work well with this filament. Constant stringing from 190-205, extra filament left when it changes layers that the nozzle hits on the next layer. Have tries .0.2, 0.3, and 0.4 layer thicknesses. Continuously flows when sitting idle. Right now, this has been the worst filament I've used. I can only make it past the first or second layer 1 out of 3 times.
Using a Mega S
I do not have any of these issues with the Anycubic or Hatchbox filament.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
I print it at 185 and it prints fine with that
I'm using it in matte black for an entire ironman suit build. 200c hotend, 60c bed temp. best filament I've ever used. Prints reliably every time on my CR10 V3's. I started off with 12 1kg spools, and just ordered 4 3kg more in various colors to try
Been using H-Box almost exclusively for 4 years now...but definitely have to try this now.
You may want to, it really impressed me. Would be interesting to see how it compares.
Hey I have some of that filament. Could you tell help me out because my filament will just come out on its own and it leaves a mess and ruins the print
Thanks dude!
Hi, i just bought a ender 3 v2 printer and it comes with a fillament (a few meters) for test. I print a few model (cat snd dog feom demo SD) and there are pretty good. But today the fillament finish and I buy a polyterre filament. It is awfull, noting can be sone with this fillament. Not stick well on my plate....and can not print anything. Where do I make mistake? Thank yoj
I found this to be really unusually soft. Like unusably soft compared to ofhter pla ive tried.
I find support removal to be the best among all PLAs I've tried, and yes, it is slightly softer than the usual PLA, but I think it becomes an advantage because instead of snapping, it bends when under pressure.
Agree layers also don't adhere well
Ordert Polymaker PolyTerra PLA Cotton White and I got big warping issues. My Printer is the Biqu BX, tried different z offsets, temperature and cooling but it always warp a bit. This problem got only with sunlu silk silver too. All other filament even 1 year old prints well. Any god a Idee? Should I dry it? But it's brand new filament
Just ordered my first batch, can't wait to see how it prints. Thanks for the video!
I am having so much trouble to even get this pla to print. I have an Ender-3 V3 SE and have played with plenty of settings that are recommended and it will just not stick
What's the surface you are printing on? I just did some prints onto plain PEI with no issues. If grip was an issue, a quick swipe of purple Elmer's did the trick nicely.
it's because PolyTerra prints like shit unless settings are super tuned JUST to this filament.
@@CHRONIC2oo3 wow
What is the filler?
Did you have trouble getting the Grey to print? I can't get it to stick to my bed.
I have enjoyed using the other 4 colors I got from them.
Polyterra just now spontaneously took a bite out of my hardened glass plate while cooling in the freezer. I could hear it pop.
You cool off prints in the freezer? Why?
@@magmatri-studios Because if I let it cool down normally it'll never come off.
@@martinbunjes2618 It just pops off IF you let it cool down slowly whilst in the heated bed or in front of an e-fan. Never do rapid cooling as that will definitely cause your glass to shatter due to repeated temperature increase and fluctuations esp if it makes contact with ice or cold droplets in the freezer.
This has nothing to do with the filament lol
@@RetroDaddyPH nonsense. I just said it doesn't come off. Hardened glass does not shatter in the freezer.
I just tried it, it extruded relatively inconsistently. I got a lot of rough layer lines. I inspected my MK3S+ and its in excellent working order.
definitely not from the pla. uses the same base as protopasta. you may need to calibrate your e-steps with this material. i had to do that to stop the over extrusion
@@brianhilligoss What do you mean? Did you turn the extruder e steps down? Maybe the material is a bit aofter and the gear bites in more?
Printing this on a k1Max. I find it to be pretty sensitive...needs some babysitting and patience. Beautiful finish and colors though.
Just tried it and it's effortless to use. Started with creality pla and it was nothing but frustrating. Too brittle. Then I decided to go with abs but the smell is horrible and the warping... Pla plus is everything I need. Strong enough for actual use while being easy peasy to print.
How do you say paid to review something? This stuff is utter garbage. I've used some crappy, cheap filament before but this stuff is terrible. The best part about this stuff is at least for my $20 I know a tree got planted, so I guess it wasn't a complete waste.
Totally disagree, it's awesome. Only downside is, it sticks to well on my glass bed.
@@forthewin84 if they paid me to say it's awesome i would too.
@@brianebarb6114 I wish 🤣
@@forthewin84 to each their own. Ive found cheaper filament that performs better for my uses. Whatever floats your boat man.
@@brianebarb6114 i have used Devil Design and Jupiter. Devil Design performed quite good, till for some reason it failed constantly on me.
Then I switched to Jupiter which didn't failed. But is left with scars when ironing flat surfaces.
Polyterra on the other hand 👌
It sucks
This is a review? RUclips content had taken a huge downward dive !
I love the part where you offered constructive criticism.
Besides, where does it say "review"? The video seems to be titled "discussion", wich doesn't hold the criteria of looking at hard data.