Some great ideas and finally lets me have a plan to install a Sonoff Basic in parallel with an existing light switch. I hadn't thought that you could take only a live out of the Sonoff ... I was always wondering what to do with the neutral.
Remember that the light switch needs to be the momentary push switch type. I think there is a firmware modification that allows you to use an ordinary switch. Screwfix and Toolstation sell the momentary push type.
@@MyProjectBoxChannel Thank you - I'm actually adding a Sonoff basic to the existing manual light switch circuit so that I can use home automation to turn on the light when motion is detected. It's in my garage and the door and light switch are at opposite ends of the garage and I've dinged my shins on bicycle pedals *enough*!
I can see your insurance company voiding your insurance when they find you used shredded paper in an electrical fitting. This will happen after your devastating house fire of course.
It's a "summer-house/shed/man-cave"🤣, at the bottom of my garden(not my main house). The walls have been insulated with "eco-friendly" shredded paper. The shredded paper has been treated with boric acid, as a fire retardant. I'm not using a Sonoff basic anymore. It's been replaced with a sonoff miniR2 in the switch back-box.
I guess it depends on the type and quality of the light switch used. As the contacts get oxidised, you can't break trough the high resistance layer with the low voltage and minimal current. The basic R4 has a "magic switch" mode, and this works directly by interrupting the supply voltage briefly.
Could you do a video close up of how to extend the manual sonoff switch by soldering two wires to it please? I remember wanting to do this years ago but there seemed to be 4 pads for the switch and I didn’t know how to identify the two correct ones
Tactile switches normally have 4 pins and 2 pairs are linked together(common) so if you test for continuity any 2 that don't have continuity should work as the switch connection. If you then press the button, you will then have continuity across those pins. My spare sonoff basic is packed away somewhere 🤔. So I will have to look for it.
Test the continuity between the input and output terminals to confirm which side goes straight through and which side goes through the relay contacts. On all the ones I have seen the terminals labelled "L" Go straight through. (Looking at the unit with the button and led below the unit logo, it is the upper terminals that go via the relay)
The sonoff mini is perfect for the job nowadays😉, but if you like me and have a bunch of sonoff basic's laying around you might as well try to use them 👍
@Don Urban you could use a couple of dual washing machine inlet valves. They can operated directly from mains voltage, so the sonoff basic can switch them directly. You can get them cheap on eBay.
@Don Urban if the sprinkler valves operate on 27vac you can always break the live connections to the relay contacts(brake the live PCB track) to convert the sonoff into a no volt output. You can then switch an external 27vac to the Sprinter solenoid valves.
@@MyProjectBoxChannel Shelly 1 can do all this without modification. I guess it depends on how much smart switching you want to do & how much complexity you're prepared to put up with.
@@ethelmini the Shelly is a pretty cool device 😉. Nowadays I would probably use the sonoff mini instead of the sonoff basic for this task. The mini is quite similar to the Shelly in some ways. This video is probably getting a bit dated. But if you have a older sonoff basic you can still make use of it in this way.
The switch is connected to gpio0 so only a button can be used, if you'll use a switch and the power will go off the sonoff won't boot since gpio0 is on and it will go into boot mode
The switch I use is a momentary switch the, push to make type. It's not the click to on and click to off type. When you release the switch it turns off. It still looks like a normal light switch. I think it's exactly what you mean by a button.
You do require a reactive press switch( Momentary push). I think there is a software/filmware hack, that allows you to use a standard light switch. But with the standard firmware you need a "push switch". I would recommend you use the newer sonoff Mini-R2. It's much smaller and more versatile, and it can work with various types of switches(unmodified).
@@wilsonandresalvarez7640 They are both rated at 10 amp maximum. So that is about 2200W at 220v maximum. But it's always better to "under rate" your device. So if you don't feel comfortable driving the Sonoff at the full 10A. You can always add a external contactor or relay, for driving heavy loads.
You can easily do two-way lighting with the press type/ momentary switches. You can put as many as you want in parallel. I would recommend using the sonoff mini as it is made to work with ordinary light switches. If you want to use ordinary light switches with the sonoff basic, I think there is a software /firmware hack. There's also a more complicated hardware hack that I have done, that involves a circuit to make it work with normal light switches. But the sonoff mini, is definitely king nowadays.
@@thetinytrader1564 If you really want I could show you that circuit but it's a bit overkill and redundant these days. The circuit converts a normal "toggle" style light switch, to a single pulsed output. It uses a opto-coupler and a capacitor that gets charged or discharged, through the optocoupler's LED, by flicking the toggle switch. That then emulates a normal push button action. I would have to dig through my records, to see exactly how I did it. If there is enough interest, I could possibly do a video on that circuit.
This is a older video but I believe it's possible with a tasmota firmware hack. But I would recommend you just use the sonoff minir2 as it is made do do this out of the box, and it's cheap.
Wow, you made good use of a bouton and a clone, good video I'd defenetly use this in the future!
Wow this is eye opening, thank you so much!
Some great ideas and finally lets me have a plan to install a Sonoff Basic in parallel with an existing light switch. I hadn't thought that you could take only a live out of the Sonoff ... I was always wondering what to do with the neutral.
Remember that the light switch needs to be the momentary push switch type. I think there is a firmware modification that allows you to use an ordinary switch. Screwfix and Toolstation sell the momentary push type.
@@MyProjectBoxChannel Thank you - I'm actually adding a Sonoff basic to the existing manual light switch circuit so that I can use home automation to turn on the light when motion is detected.
It's in my garage and the door and light switch are at opposite ends of the garage and I've dinged my shins on bicycle pedals *enough*!
@@emeyedeejay okay I get it 😉👍. If you subscribe to my channel you will get to see more of my videos 😉
@@MyProjectBoxChannel How long in the UK?
@@emeyedeejay 20 years
I can see your insurance company voiding your insurance when they find you used shredded paper in an electrical fitting.
This will happen after your devastating house fire of course.
It's a "summer-house/shed/man-cave"🤣, at the bottom of my garden(not my main house). The walls have been insulated with "eco-friendly" shredded paper. The shredded paper has been treated with boric acid, as a fire retardant. I'm not using a Sonoff basic anymore. It's been replaced with a sonoff miniR2 in the switch back-box.
I did this, but eventually it got unreliable due to there not being enough wetting current going thru the external switch contacts
I guess it depends on the type and quality of the light switch used. As the contacts get oxidised, you can't break trough the high resistance layer with the low voltage and minimal current. The basic R4 has a "magic switch" mode, and this works directly by interrupting the supply voltage briefly.
Could you do a video close up of how to extend the manual sonoff switch by soldering two wires to it please? I remember wanting to do this years ago but there seemed to be 4 pads for the switch and I didn’t know how to identify the two correct ones
Tactile switches normally have 4 pins and 2 pairs are linked together(common) so if you test for continuity any 2 that don't have continuity should work as the switch connection. If you then press the button, you will then have continuity across those pins. My spare sonoff basic is packed away somewhere 🤔. So I will have to look for it.
Test the continuity between the input and output terminals to confirm which side goes straight through and which side goes through the relay contacts. On all the ones I have seen the terminals labelled "L" Go straight through. (Looking at the unit with the button and led below the unit logo, it is the upper terminals that go via the relay)
The sonoff mini is perfect for the job nowadays😉, but if you like me and have a bunch of sonoff basic's laying around you might as well try to use them 👍
@Don Urban you could use a couple of dual washing machine inlet valves. They can operated directly from mains voltage, so the sonoff basic can switch them directly. You can get them cheap on eBay.
@Don Urban if the sprinkler valves operate on 27vac you can always break the live connections to the relay contacts(brake the live PCB track) to convert the sonoff into a no volt output. You can then switch an external 27vac to the Sprinter solenoid valves.
@@MyProjectBoxChannel Shelly 1 can do all this without modification. I guess it depends on how much smart switching you want to do & how much complexity you're prepared to put up with.
@@ethelmini the Shelly is a pretty cool device 😉. Nowadays I would probably use the sonoff mini instead of the sonoff basic for this task. The mini is quite similar to the Shelly in some ways. This video is probably getting a bit dated. But if you have a older sonoff basic you can still make use of it in this way.
The switch is connected to gpio0 so only a button can be used, if you'll use a switch and the power will go off the sonoff won't boot since gpio0 is on and it will go into boot mode
The switch I use is a momentary switch the, push to make type. It's not the click to on and click to off type. When you release the switch it turns off. It still looks like a normal light switch. I think it's exactly what you mean by a button.
The phrase you should refer to is a “ momentary contact” switch FYI
You are correct👍 ,but not everyone knows what a momentary contact switch is. This is a very "basic Mod" so I kept the terminology simple😉
Do you have to change your switch to a reactive press switch for it to work? Or can you use your traditional existing switch too?
You do require a reactive press switch( Momentary push). I think there is a software/filmware hack, that allows you to use a standard light switch. But with the standard firmware you need a "push switch". I would recommend you use the newer sonoff Mini-R2. It's much smaller and more versatile, and it can work with various types of switches(unmodified).
Would a Sonoff Mini-R2 be okay to use for my water heater switch?
@@wilsonandresalvarez7640 They are both rated at 10 amp maximum. So that is about 2200W at 220v maximum. But it's always better to "under rate" your device. So if you don't feel comfortable driving the Sonoff at the full 10A. You can always add a external contactor or relay, for driving heavy loads.
Isn't there anyway to use normal switches?
2way, 3way or 4way switches?
Well 2way could work if we use 2 sonoff for 1 bulb😅
You can easily do two-way lighting with the press type/ momentary switches. You can put as many as you want in parallel. I would recommend using the sonoff mini as it is made to work with ordinary light switches. If you want to use ordinary light switches with the sonoff basic, I think there is a software /firmware hack. There's also a more complicated hardware hack that I have done, that involves a circuit to make it work with normal light switches. But the sonoff mini, is definitely king nowadays.
@@MyProjectBoxChannelCan you share the details of that "complicated hardware" hack that involves a circuit to use with ordinary switches...
@@thetinytrader1564 If you really want I could show you that circuit but it's a bit overkill and redundant these days. The circuit converts a normal "toggle" style light switch, to a single pulsed output. It uses a opto-coupler and a capacitor that gets charged or discharged, through the optocoupler's LED, by flicking the toggle switch. That then emulates a normal push button action. I would have to dig through my records, to see exactly how I did it. If there is enough interest, I could possibly do a video on that circuit.
I am looking for a spst switch not a monetary.
This is a older video but I believe it's possible with a tasmota firmware hack. But I would recommend you just use the sonoff minir2 as it is made do do this out of the box, and it's cheap.
Maar is jy dan 'n Suid Afrikaner? Lekker! So bly vir dié video 👌🏼
Here is my new video on how to use a sonoff mini without a neutral wire behind the light switch. ruclips.net/video/x7Q8AS238pY/видео.html
I don't do Sonoff any more as ewe link is crap it is so slow, when it works, and I don't want to re-programme with Tasmota, but your video was good
Have you seen my shelly1 hack? ruclips.net/video/YItMu6VJGBI/видео.html. Or my mini R2 hack ruclips.net/video/oBR5O391m_c/видео.html
Yes, thanks I have, and now I am into Tasmota I can get away from China and stay local so all good, thanks @@MyProjectBoxChannel