In the old days, we removed the thermostat and put the thermostat cover back on the intake manifold. Then open the heater valve full. There is no need to run the engine since the entire cooling system will be open. This back flushes the block as well. No need to worry about back flow to the hose without the water pump working. Waste water comes out of the disconnected lower rad hose, not the rad. The rad can be easily flushed after.
That would be ideal but many vehicles, this is one of them, won't seal with the thermostat missing. The thermostat o-ring actually is what causes the housing to seal. But in general that is a better way.
On my 86 Oldsmobile cutlass, ( chevy 350 small block) I have a heater hose that go's to the engine block and one that goes to the water pump. Which one do I install the T in? Thanks in advance.
WRONG! The one coming from the water pump is pushing the coolent out - this is the one that pushes the coolent into the heater inlet fitting... ..The outlet heater hose returns the coolent back into the engine block. at least on a 1996 Ford Explorer 4.0 engine.
I bought a used 1990 Ford ranger and heater core hoses coming out of the firewall up by the motor they've been cut off they bypassed it so and they're side by side so how do I know which one goes to the upper connection and which one goes to the lower connection
@@ClintHolland got a question...i flushed system, put on new water pump, new thermastat, new fan relay,new coolant temp.relay and it's still over heating only when it sits and idles for little bit,, any suggestions??
@@mikecarter3606 Absolutely. You mentioned you replaced the relay so I am assuming they are electric fans and they can definitely fail in such a way as that they don't spin fast.
Great video thanks for posting. Pretty much covered it all. Couple of suggestions - remove the petcock when doing the hose flush and possibly the lower radiator hose at some point. You get the coolant out of the radiator tap but there is really no way sediment etc will flow out through the radiator cap at least not like it would through the petcock. Second you mention 50/50 mix but what you ended up with is quite a bit less. Since your system had 60% distilled water in it on your last drain (radiator drained) adding premixed 50/50 for that 40% would result in a. 80/20 mixture- way too low. You needed 100% coolant which even then only gets you to 60/40. So many people don't get this point. You need to know total system capacity and what the drain amount is so they understand what coolant mixture - if any - is required. Lastly do the draining in the grass or capture the fluid - that mixture going out on the street is dangerous as you know. Great job - I basically do the same thing but go straight to 4-5 distilled water runs and skip the flush equipment part.
I had the same question regarding the 50/50 mixture. Like you, I don't think that people understand the math and I think that Clint Holland has given bad advice to the folks watching this video who will wind up with a poor mixture in their cooling systems. I wish there were a petcock at the bottom of the block! Short of that, would it be OK to run the engine and let the water pump run dry for a few seconds? Would this remove the 60% of remaining water???
@@tribulationprepper787 you know where that connection to the heater core is? Get a 5 gallon bucket, fill it with whatever 50/50 antifreeze you would like to use, get a hand pump that can connect to it, and start pumping coolant until it comes out of the radiator looking like the color of the antifreeze. Check the water content with a gauge, yeah get a gauge.
@@gamerkay5791 I bought one of those little clear plastic gauges a while back. Now I am using those paper strips that change color to indicate coolant concentration after you dip them in the radiator. I had even given some thought to popping out a freeze plug at the bottom of the block. My next thought was NAH!
Depends on the coolant you use. Many vehicles are now using non-toxic coolant and you can always find some to replace yours with if it is a concern. I have been running it for many years now.@@condor5635
Why distroy the original line buy cutting it? Cant you simply remove the hose gets some additional hose from a auto parts store and tap it in so you can remove the "T" fitting?
I understand what you are saying but you aren't destroying the line. I did this procedure over 6 years ago and have never had a single problem with it.
@@RSW1484still makes more sense to just buy 1ft of hose for like $3 and connect the T like that instead of cutting the oem hose in half. Doing that creates 3 additional and potential fail points.
Would doing this three or four times, while allowing the thermostat to open between each flush allow the heatercore to flush? Its a "record heat breaking" day here in South Louisiana, would it not be safe to allow water in the engine?
One heater hose goes to the intake manifold right next to the thermostat housing and the other heater hose goes to the radiator. Which is the inlet hose?
@@steverose2405 According to the diagram your heater inlet hose is the one on the right as it enters the firewall if you are looking at it from the front of the vehicle. Basically the hose closer to the driver side.
I bought one of these and it makes no sense to me that you would just allow the coolant to bubble out in the ground!?? Why didn't they make an adapter with a drain hose to allow you to dump the water and coolant into a bucket.
You've missed critical steps in the process. Recovery and proper disposal of used coolant. Animals and pets will drink it if toxic liquids are left to puddle on the street. Also, testing coolant strength after flushing system. Water remains in heater core and engine.
That depends. I run only non-toxic coolant in my vehicles so I frequently do but if you don't, just make sure it doesn't pool somewhere that animals can drink it. And definitely make sure it doesn't run into a storm drain as it can kill fish and other water dwelling animals. If you have a catch container big enough the correct way is to just catch it and dispose of it according to your local regulations.
So after everything is said and done we just leave the tee fitting there and it won't melt or anyting? It won't harm the vehicle or possibly melt or or something. So we don't have to remove the tee fitting what done?
That is correct. It's made of Polycarbonate which doesn't melt until around 300+ degrees F and your car runs in the low to mid 200s. If you are worried, replace it with a metal inline connector. Mine has been on this truck for 8 years and still works just fine.
I bought this kit not realizing that I would have to splice into the system. Im not a fan of creating more potential points of failure especially if using plastic and worm drive clamps.
I get it and I completely understand. This kit is still in place after almost 10 years and works just fine. You can always try a chemical flush or buy a replacement heater hose to use afterwards.
I believe the instructions on the package tell you to run the engine 5mins while running the flush. Wouldn't the engine reach operating temperature in that time?
It is doubtful your engine would be hot enough for the thermostat to open in 5 minutes of idling. If you were driving it or revving the engine up, it might be.
Usually takes 10-15 minutes to reach operating temperature, if you have a a working thermostat. If yo remove the T-stat could take longer.@@ClintHolland
So the simple answer is it's a pain. Draining it is about the same but flushing and refilling it is horrible. You will refill it through the coolant reservoir but most cars have a bolt you have to loosen to bleed air so you can refill or flush it. It is usually the bolt on the thermostat or another bleeder valve. This isn't my video but see if this one helps. ruclips.net/video/IjqfgUPQ4hA/видео.html
I heard distilled water will steal elements from the metal in the cooling system because distilled water isn't happy water, as if it's unbalanced a little. So, the advice was mostly distilled plus a small amount of tap water.
That’s not how chemistry works. Distilled water doesn’t react which is why it doesn’t corrode. Whatever elements “stolen” probably needed to be flushed anyways.
I've tested Walmarts 'Distilled' water in the past. Not as distilled as one would think. Now, they may have purified it by distillation, but it's not TRUE distilled water. As pure distilled water does not conduct electricity.
@@ClintHolland I'm afraid I don't. I would imagine that water intended for a steamer would be good. Or one could distill it themselves. I'm probably gonna have to purchase several and test them lol
Just a battery and electrodes. 100% pure distilled water does not conduct electricity. 9 volts was extremely active. I'm betting they remineralize the water. Or it's straight from the tap lol You'll see bubbles forming on either side of the electrodes.
+Dai Do You just connect them back like they were but with the T in the middle. Ideally you should empty the coolant reservoir. Sometimes this is quite difficult since most don't have a drain and you will need to suck it out using a pump.
You can certainly drain it first but it doesn't really matter. If it's really dirty, try a product called Thoro Flush. You can get it at most auto stores or Amazon and it works great.
On most cars it does. Some cars have a heater control valve that only opens when the engine is hot which won't work for this flush kit. However, check out my other video on Flushing Stop Leak out if you need a good flush that includes the heater core. You can also pick up some heater core flush adapters that hook to your water hose.
I can just let the coolant run down my driveway into the street?? also if you remove the rubber line off the metal line and add a small heater hose in between you dont have to cut the expensive factory hose
You sure can if you run non-toxic coolant in your radiator like I do. I am big animal guy and switched all my vehicles over to it years ago when I learned that animals would drink it because it was sweet. You are correct but the risk of cutting your factory hose is overblown. If you cut the hose and want to take the tee out later, you can buy a connector and clamps for less than $5. Plus, leaving the tee in works great when you want to flush it again later.
Clint Holland Tastes bitter to me. Lots of spitting to get the taste out. I prefer to buy a new hose and use the old one for the T, but OP may have stated a better way. Chunk of heater hose and remove when finished. 3 less failure points in the system.
Clint Holland I actually just got done doing this the other day. I ended up just getting a hose barb of each the inlet and outlet heater hose sizes and some clear tubing. I plastic welded the hose barbs together and put everything in place of the heater core.
I'm doing this for the first time and have a couple questions. It looks like you add Irontite Thor Flush first, run engine 10 minutes, drain the radiator, (let engine cool some) then connect this kit and run water through? My other question is since the "T" is on the inlet hose doesn't this basically flush the heater core at the same time??
Depends on the vehicle. On this Dodge, yes. However, on some vehicles there is a heater control valve that doesnt open until the engine gets up to temperature and it's pretty hard to get it up to temperature with the cool water flowing from the hose.
Hi Chris, Believe I know the answer, however, just to be sure, this is not a back flush, correct? Secondly, does this flush the heater core? Thank you sir.
Correct. This isn't a back flush. And it will flush your heater core if you don't have a heater control valve. If you do, you will just need to run the heater and let the truck get up to operating temperature to do this.
I didn't see you add any type of chemical flush that would remove rust, corrosion. etc. This would not do a very good job on areal, dirty cooling system.
You are correct. This is a pure water flush to just flush out your old coolant. See my other video here on what I recommend you flush your system with. ruclips.net/video/L-M4RcFaNJ0/видео.html
You cant use the cleaner while doing this, You have to let the car run with radiator cap on for 10-15 min when using the cleaner. Repeat that at least 3 more times. Then let the car cool down and finally flush this way. Or you can do this backwards Thats how I did it today. Took all day but my engine was fully flushed.
You don't. Nor is it required. Just refill with the 50/50 mix and drive it a little. Once it has mixed up well, buy a cheap coolant tester and see if it is in specs of what you need. If not, add pure anti-freeze and keep retesting. This is only if you are a purist and want the mix to be a perfect 50/50, which it doesn't need to be. The main purpose of anti-freeze is in it's name. It is the keep the coolant from freezing. So if when you test it, it meets your needs even though it isn't at 50/50 there is no reason to try to hit that magical number. There are other factors of it such as anti-corrosion and boilover prevention but as long as the coolant tester shows it meets your needs, you are fine.
@@jjack6896 I am not saying you are wrong, just that draining the block is impractical and not needed. I am looking at the Toyota Dealer repair guide right now for a cooling system flush and even the manufacturer doesn't include draining the block in their dealer instructions.
Quick Fix that’s pretty odd I know it’s in Toyota manual for my FJ’s. FYI the manufacturer manuals aren’t always the best way. I’ve seen some really stupid ideas like pull the motor to change the timing chain.
Absolutely. Flushing with tap water is fine. Just don't run your vehicle on tap water as it can cause corrosion even though that risk is over hyped as well. Flush with tap water and then refill with coolant and distilled water if necessary.
I will be replacing my engine and must do a complete coolant system flush, especially since I did use the gunk stop leak [which didn't work], so that I don't void the warranty.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, I never claimed to be an mechanical expert: When an engine starts, the thermostat remains closed keeping the coolant from circulating from radiator to engine, as the engine gets to operating temperature the thermostat opens then what? it dumps cold coolant into a warm engine. Something I believe you said never to do right? I've been messing around with automobiles for a long time, what I always heard was to NEVER dump cold coolant into an hot engine that isn't running. I'd did a few coolant flushes in my time, and I always let the engine come up to operating temperature so the thermostat would open, I've never had a problem perhaps I was just lucky?
So you aren't wrong, just a different definition of cold. The coolant in your vehicle is never truly cold, except maybe in the winter time or colder climates. However, before it reaches the engine it sits in the radiator right next to the engine and is actually warmed up substantially by engine heat before the thermostat ever opens. If you dump cold water from your hose into the engine, it doesn't get this same warm up period. And to top that off, you actually can add cold water to a hot engine as long as you do it slowly instead of just dumping it all in at once.
Some pros tell you to drain the radiator, put in some flush chemicals , fill it back up with tap water, and drive it for 15-20 minutes or until it reaches operating temp and thermostat opens. Let it cool and then run the flushing process a couple of times. @@ClintHolland
@@RSW1484 That is correct and that's how I do it most of the time. However, if you have a plugged heater core or if your coolant was in pretty bad shape, this is a much better way. It just takes more time but it results in a better flush. You can also combine the two methods of using the chemicals and this kit.
Randy Jackson On my dodge it does. If your vehicle has a heater control valve you will need to make sure the heater is on and run it long enough to heat up and open the thermostat.
Thanks for the quick response Chris. 98 dakota sport. Did not see a heater control valve. Will crank up the heater just to be on safe side. This crazy thing takes a long time on cold mornings to heat up. I was wanting to kill two birds with one stone.
On most vehicles it does without any additional effort. Some vehicles have a heater control valve that only sends coolant to the heater core if the car is heated up and the heater is on.
VERY good instructional video indeed sir! One question though: Did the cute lil Doggy sauntering about in the background help you with this project? As I said, very good video - thanks for sharing!
One of two options. Capture it in a bucket and either dispose of it at your local recycling center or flush it down your toilet. Just don't pour it in a storm drain or anywhere like that.
Okay so I'm new to this is my first time doing radiator flush now I'm using a radiator cleaner chemical not Prestone another brand but it's same idea however data get because using distilled water so you don't have to worry about tap water for instance I have really hard water containing a lot of limestone I can watching use the system I don't see how it gets all of the tap water out as you said just draining the radiator does not drain the water out of the whole system so I don't see how this is a good thing not to mention the fact that all of that crap just went on the ground and obviously some of that s*** probably contain coolant even if in small amounts I just don't like the idea of not collecting it since I have pets so I have to say wouldn't it be better to run the cleaning chemical through it then flush it once or twice by filling it back up with distilled water running it for awhile and draining it and after that adding in concentrate antifreeze based on the maximum capacity of your system that just seems a lot better and it saves you from having to worry about tap water especially if you're like me with hard water that's not going to be good for an engine at least I don't think it would be
If you want to be by the book, then you technically should use distilled water. However, and the reason it really doesn't matter, is because anti-freeze has corrosion preventers and inhibitors that basically neutralize the small amount of tap water left behind. If you really want peace of mind, buy a coolant tester for like $10 and test your coolant when you are done. You will see that it passes with flying colors even with some tap water left behind. The issue is that you really can't do a good flush on your vehicle just by using distilled water. You need to be able to use the water hose which of course is just tap water.
I would've liked to have seen the missing 5 minjtes you cutout of your engine running. I wanted to see how dirty the rest of the coolant was. Yes, i have better things to do, but i have a FF button.
Not that I am aware of. I know you can buy a metal straight through connector that you can put back in when you finish. Better than leaving this plastic one in but mine has held up for 5 years now without an issue.
Shouldn't you drain first then flush with water . You just flushed coolant all over your driveway where dogs and cat cold now be poisoned . Just saying.
Dude.. normal operating temps are around 200 degrees. I seriously doubt cool water is going to cause any damage. The damage comes from putting cool water into an overheated engine. I guess it's better to be safe than sorry though.
Listen, I love ChrisFix as much as the other guys but be careful doing a super flush on a car thats been around for a while. Aggressive flushes can easily cause more leaks in your system and potentially cause you some major issues. You don't want to super flush your system. You want the least aggressive and corrosive flush you can do as anything else can cause damage.
My '98 Dakota 318 had heater problems. Bought it off a lot. Some dkhd had used some type stop-leak/sealer (never found out what) in the engine prior to selling it. Replaced rad, water pump (which was weeping), thermostat, and also found the flapper door inside WAS working, so I asked a pro. He suggested Lime-Away. I began the back flush doing the same steps this guy used, but ran at idle for about 2 hrs. with my heater on full, circulating the stuff through the whole system. Flushed 3x with distilled water and refilled the system with 60/40. Coulda done it all again for what these kits cost. Won't burn your feet, but warms up pretty good to be 22 years old. By the way, at 10:48 it looked like a pee-hole in the bottom of the radiator when he opened the cock. That could cause coolant loss!
Saw your dog roaming by at 13:50. Coolant is very dangerous for dogs, they like to lick it because it's sweet. Yours is pretty diluted by that point but wanted to make sure everyone knows.
I appreciate the concern but I only run non-toxic coolant in my vehicles. My dad started me on that as soon as it became a thing and it's pretty much all I use now.
What is the alternative to doing this at home? Also note, you can and should run non-toxic coolant in your automobile so it isn't an environmental issue.
@@ClintHolland interesting I never knew about non toxic antifreeze. I just removed the valve at the bottom and then added distilled water from the top let it run thru the system. Drained it again. Did that twice. Had a big pan on the bottom. Had no waste on the ground. And was pretty much very neatly done.
@@NeutronX101 Yep, definitely a great product to use if you have animals and it's only slightly more expensive. I suspect one day it will be all they allow us to use. I have watched too many crime shows where someone poisoned their spouse using it.
I can't believe you cut a hose to do all this just to flush your engine coolant. Totally unnecessary. You can do it without being so destructive. But whatever. You do you I guess.
I am simply following the instructions on the package. Cutting a heater hose is not that big of a deal, they cost like $10. I also have another video of using chemicals to flush your system. However, the truth is that if you aren't willing to cut or disconnect a heater hose, you will spend hours flushing your system versus minutes.
It sure is. We mainly use antifreeze to prevent freezing, hence the name. The specific heat of all forms of antifreeze is lower than that of pure water, making them worse at cooling than water, sometimes by as much as 20%. See this article for a better explanation. www.hotrod.com/articles/glycol-or-water-coolant/
+Chris Myers Yes sir. And anyone who has ever had a heater core leak on a Dakota will confirm. If you have a leak in your heater core it will leak from the moment the thermostat opens until you have no coolant left to leak, even while running the AC.
Agreed on all most points except the fact that water is in fact better at cooling at your engine than antifreeze. That is the point I was trying to make. Many people in temperate climates run water and only water in their cars and have for years. The water pump seal lubrication myth has been busted many times as well. But agreed, it does turn to steam at lower temperatures than antifreeze but with the pressure most systems are under even then it doesnt boil until 257 degrees F which is fine for most engines.
@@ClintHolland you are talking about minor differences in water vs coolant ability to exchange motor heat with the atmosphere. If you believe what you say fill your cooling system with water and take a drive through the desert southwest in July and August, or climb Raton Pass in the summer. Water really cools best when a 13 lb cap blows steam. Nothing cools a motor better than water turning to steam. Race cars use water because they are specialized and coolant pollutes the track. Under your thinking alcohol would be the best coolant or a high pressure system using freon, or even canned aerosol dust remover. Supporting your concept though, coolants are rarely used in their pure form, they always have some proportion of water. Ethylene glycol is alcohol which is way more efficient than water at heat exchange as well as propylene glycol. I hope some inexperienced person does not read your comment, then in an excited state about an upcoming X-country trip to California, decides to flush his cooling system, then wanting to add the best coolant according to you, decides to refill it with distilled water at $1 per gallon as opposed to 50/50 coolant at $13.50. His theoretical trip taking him, his wife, and new baby through west Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada and finally California. Not having replaced his 13 lb radiator cap with a 20 Lb cap he will most likely be on the side of the road with steam billowing out of his cooling system because the desert floor was 140 degrees F, his altitude was 6500 feet, and he had his AC on max to keep his wife and baby cool. But say for a moment he did put on that 20 psi cap, then he might be on the side of the road with that old radiator hose split because of the excess pressure, and steam blowing out that gaping split. He will be lucky if it is the top hose, that way he wont lose all his water...But since you say that lubricity is a myth, then he probably wont lose the water pump to the lack of lubrication but rather to the over heating and of course the thermostat will soon fail after an over heating incident. So water may transport and exchange heat slightly better than the glycol coolant in a laboratory environment its not a better coolant for your car. However the math supports your position.
Yep, he wet the truck bed on thatn. Good thing it was the hypoallergenic coolant so as to not spill a bunch of poisonous stuff lol. Your driveway n animals n family... They say mynute amounts have no long term effects...lol, we've prob all done somthn like that at somepoint on the reels...🙃✌
This process is wrong. You can see in the video the toxic coolant (green colour) spilling out of the radiator into the ground. This is lethal for humans and pets - and bad for the environment. Coolant should captured in a container and recycled at a designated station.
+John Dawson You are correct in general but not in this specific situation. Many of the new coolants of today, including the one I use, are non-toxic to humans and pets. As a matter of fact, the main ingredient in them is approved by the FDA for use in foods.
You're super super chatty, u almost lost me at 2½ minutes.. I'm glad I watched the whole thing, but bud you gotta stop repeating yourself so much... Thank you for the video..
Thanks for watching. This was one of my first videos. I would like to think I have gotten better and care more about my viewers now than I did making long videos for RUclips. Live and learn but thanks for the kind words.
You can increase/decrease the playback speeds. Almost any instructional video needs to be increased 1.5x - 2x in order to get through it without losing interest lol.
Your s glass half empty eh.. Alot of people get quiet and you bout hafta guess what's goin on cuz they think, am I soundn like a dousch right now, how many hits will this get....Arrghhh, no face shots, everything below chest...!!!
Why be an ass? He is trying to show you some valuable tips and all you can do is insult him, go away. Your video is great Clint, thank you for the tutorial.
It's obvious you do not know how to do this correctly. You are suppose to put the angled part in the top of the radiator with a hose connected to it. The hose goes into a bucket. YOU DO NOT FLUSH THE ANTI FREEZE ONTO THE GROUND!! You then bring the used antifreeze to a recycling facility. Anti freeze is lethal to anything that drinks it.
It's also obvious that you didn't actually watch or listen to the video. If you had, you would have heard me cover why I didn't use the deflector tube at around 3:30 seconds, it didn't fit by the way, a common complaint from people online about this kit as well. You will also notice, again if you actually watched the video or looked at the description, that my vehicle didn't have anti-freeze in it and had already been flushed so allowing it to flow on the ground was completely safe. But let me do you one better. Had you read the description for the video, I even mentioned that I run non-toxic anti-freeze in all my vehicles and have been for years so even if I wanted to drain it on the ground, I can. But thanks for watching, or kind of watching.
It's not nearly as big of a deal as people make it out to be. Just make sure when you are done that you refill it with distilled water and coolant. All coolants today contain anti-corrosives which neutralize any remnants from the tap water.
Would have* And I disagree. Obnoxiously loud, over-used, crappy uncopyrighted songs pulls the concentration of the topic away from the purpose. The people generally viewing these type of videos lack the knowledge that is focused within them, and distractions like crappy music, and horrible sound distribution causes people to lose focus. You can miss something or overlook something. If you prefer reading, you might try a book. Typically videos are a visual source of information, not a written one. Common sense should compel you to automatically understand the concepts that define their purpose, but I guess that doesn't come naturally to everyone. Also, there is an option of subtitles available, automatically generated subtitles that are lacking in punctuation, but you obviously don't acknowledge the functions of punctuation anyways, so there is some video reading material fit for your level of intelligence. They're not blocking off parts of the screen in huge prints or colorful fun fonts, but this is RUclips, not Sesame Street. So I respectfully disagree. I would love to see more in depth videos like this one that do not run away from the purpose because the simple minded need shiny bright colors and music to watch it. The video is about working on a vehicle, so it's entire viewing range is based around adults who aren't afraid to get their hands dirty, and want to learn some diy mechanic stuff. It's not made for kids who need sing alongs and fancy fonts to pay attention. I'm well aware that this was written 10 months ago, but if you can find logic in complaining about a lack of irrelevant distractions then my logic of responding to that shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone with half a brain.
No, you will need to buy a coolant flush "liquid" I recommend Prestone. Then run your heater on high for 20 minutes. After that drain the radiator them do this procedure
The truth is it depends. If your vehicle has a heater control valve, then this won't flush it because the car won't get hot enough for it to open. If your vehicle doesn't, then this will flush it.
You have to cut it to connect the included T. If you don't want to cut it, you can buy a short piece of hose from the auto parts store that matches your size and temporarily install and cut it. Then when you are done just put your original back in.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
In the old days, we removed the thermostat and put the thermostat cover back on the intake manifold. Then open the heater valve full. There is no need to run the engine since the entire cooling system will be open. This back flushes the block as well. No need to worry about back flow to the hose without the water pump working. Waste water comes out of the disconnected lower rad hose, not the rad. The rad can be easily flushed after.
That would be ideal but many vehicles, this is one of them, won't seal with the thermostat missing. The thermostat o-ring actually is what causes the housing to seal. But in general that is a better way.
@@ClintHolland A small leak around the thermostat housing is OK. The only pressure is from the garden hose which you can control.
On my 86 Oldsmobile cutlass, ( chevy 350 small block) I have a heater hose that go's to the engine block and one that goes to the water pump. Which one do I install the T in? Thanks in advance.
The one coming from the engine block should be the heater inlet hose which is the one you should use.
WRONG! The one coming from the water pump is pushing the coolent out - this is the one that pushes the coolent into the heater inlet fitting... ..The outlet heater hose returns the coolent back into the engine block. at least on a 1996 Ford Explorer 4.0 engine.
I bought a used 1990 Ford ranger and heater core hoses coming out of the firewall up by the motor they've been cut off they bypassed it so and they're side by side so how do I know which one goes to the upper connection and which one goes to the lower connection
They bypassed it so that coolant never goes to the heater core?
Thanks for making this video!! Saved me few hundred bucks...greatly appreciate it
Awesome. Glad to hear it Mike.
@@ClintHolland got a question...i flushed system, put on new water pump, new thermastat, new fan relay,new coolant temp.relay and it's still over heating only when it sits and idles for little bit,, any suggestions??
@@mikecarter3606 I know you said you replaced the fan relay but are the fans coming on when it idles?
@@ClintHolland yeah it does kick on now.but still overheating,, it seems like the fan is not turning like it should seems slow,, is that possible??
@@mikecarter3606 Absolutely. You mentioned you replaced the relay so I am assuming they are electric fans and they can definitely fail in such a way as that they don't spin fast.
Great video thanks for posting. Pretty much covered it all. Couple of suggestions - remove the petcock when doing the hose flush and possibly the lower radiator hose at some point. You get the coolant out of the radiator tap but there is really no way sediment etc will flow out through the radiator cap at least not like it would through the petcock. Second you mention 50/50 mix but what you ended up with is quite a bit less. Since your system had 60% distilled water in it on your last drain (radiator drained) adding premixed 50/50 for that 40% would result in a. 80/20 mixture- way too low. You needed 100% coolant which even then only gets you to 60/40. So many people don't get this point. You need to know total system capacity and what the drain amount is so they understand what coolant mixture - if any - is required. Lastly do the draining in the grass or capture the fluid - that mixture going out on the street is dangerous as you know. Great job - I basically do the same thing but go straight to 4-5 distilled water runs and skip the flush equipment part.
I had the same question regarding the 50/50 mixture. Like you, I don't think that people understand the math and I think that Clint Holland has given bad advice to the folks watching this video who will wind up with a poor mixture in their cooling systems. I wish there were a petcock at the bottom of the block! Short of that, would it be OK to run the engine and let the water pump run dry for a few seconds? Would this remove the 60% of remaining water???
@@tribulationprepper787 you know where that connection to the heater core is? Get a 5 gallon bucket, fill it with whatever 50/50 antifreeze you would like to use, get a hand pump that can connect to it, and start pumping coolant until it comes out of the radiator looking like the color of the antifreeze. Check the water content with a gauge, yeah get a gauge.
@@gamerkay5791 I bought one of those little clear plastic gauges a while back. Now I am using those paper strips that change color to indicate coolant concentration after you dip them in the radiator.
I had even given some thought to popping out a freeze plug at the bottom of the block. My next thought was NAH!
@Laredo Potato should not drain it in the street or the grass
Depends on the coolant you use. Many vehicles are now using non-toxic coolant and you can always find some to replace yours with if it is a concern. I have been running it for many years now.@@condor5635
Why distroy the original line buy cutting it? Cant you simply remove the hose gets some additional hose from a auto parts store and tap it in so you can remove the "T" fitting?
I understand what you are saying but you aren't destroying the line. I did this procedure over 6 years ago and have never had a single problem with it.
T-fitting makes it easier for the next time you do it. @@ClintHolland
@@ClintHollandok question then how often does your environment get freezing cold? Does it get to -20/-40?
I don't trust that plastic T personally
@@RSW1484still makes more sense to just buy 1ft of hose for like $3 and connect the T like that instead of cutting the oem hose in half. Doing that creates 3 additional and potential fail points.
My radiator doesnt have a cap, so Im assuming the water would backflush into the plastic tank and flow out that way?
You would probably need to use the drain plug on the bottom instead and be careful not to let it run too low.
Would doing this three or four times, while allowing the thermostat to open between each flush allow the heatercore to flush?
Its a "record heat breaking" day here in South Louisiana, would it not be safe to allow water in the engine?
This might be a better video for you. ruclips.net/video/L-M4RcFaNJ0/видео.html
Great video please capture all the water that is going into the drains
Why not drain radiator first, then flush with heater hose connection?
I don't know that it matters much. You are eventually flushing all the coolant out. I was just following the instructions.
One heater hose goes to the intake manifold right next to the thermostat housing and the other heater hose goes to the radiator. Which is the inlet hose?
What is the year, make and model of your vehicle?
@@ClintHolland 1988 Chevrolet C3500 with 454 engine.
@@steverose2405 According to the diagram your heater inlet hose is the one on the right as it enters the firewall if you are looking at it from the front of the vehicle. Basically the hose closer to the driver side.
I bought one of these and it makes no sense to me that you would just allow the coolant to bubble out in the ground!?? Why didn't they make an adapter with a drain hose to allow you to dump the water and coolant into a bucket.
That could be the next million dollar idea. Wouldn't be too hard to rig up something but I definitely agree.
A PVC pipe cutter should give a clean cut for the T.
What if you don’t have a cap in the rad and only a reservoir? I have a Chevy with only a reservoir tank. No fill hole on the rad.
In that case your best bet would be to temporarily disconnect the upper radiator hose.
You've missed critical steps in the process. Recovery and proper disposal of used coolant. Animals and pets will drink it if toxic liquids are left to puddle on the street. Also, testing coolant strength after flushing system. Water remains in heater core and engine.
Agreed Robert. I actually just re-recorded this video and will be uploading a new version that addresses these issues soon.
Aren't you suppose to let it bubble over letting vermits lick it up?...think that's what that attachments for to run in bucket?
Thanks Robert Lee, there's always at least one "Karen" in the diy auto repair video comment section.
@@tonyjackson4099 Always!!
@@bevo7041
Nice.
Is that the same profile pic you use for Grindr?
Was looking for a video just like this, thanks!
Do you just let this spill out onto the ground?
That depends. I run only non-toxic coolant in my vehicles so I frequently do but if you don't, just make sure it doesn't pool somewhere that animals can drink it. And definitely make sure it doesn't run into a storm drain as it can kill fish and other water dwelling animals. If you have a catch container big enough the correct way is to just catch it and dispose of it according to your local regulations.
I got a spill-less funnel kit and use the radiator coupler and adaptor and 1" plastic tube, hang it into a 5 gallon bucket. No mess.
So after everything is said and done we just leave the tee fitting there and it won't melt or anyting? It won't harm the vehicle or possibly melt or or something. So we don't have to remove the tee fitting what done?
That's what I'm thinking. In don't trust that cheap plastic. Replace the hose after or get a joiner.
That is correct. It's made of Polycarbonate which doesn't melt until around 300+ degrees F and your car runs in the low to mid 200s. If you are worried, replace it with a metal inline connector. Mine has been on this truck for 8 years and still works just fine.
I've had mine in for 5 years or more. No leaks or any problems. It's the Prestone Kit.
My vehicle already has fittings of the same plastic in the heater lines. But if this came in aluminum, I'd certainly get it.
Shouldn't you at least cover the alternator? It wouldn't be good if some of that water splashes on to the alternator while the engine is idling.
I am not saying it's ideal but water won't hurt your alternator.
I bought this kit not realizing that I would have to splice into the system. Im not a fan of creating more potential points of failure especially if using plastic and worm drive clamps.
I get it and I completely understand. This kit is still in place after almost 10 years and works just fine. You can always try a chemical flush or buy a replacement heater hose to use afterwards.
Don't cut the pipe. Buy a one foot section of hose from advance auto parts.
Great idea William.
then what?
I believe the instructions on the package tell you to run the engine 5mins while running the flush. Wouldn't the engine reach operating temperature in that time?
It is doubtful your engine would be hot enough for the thermostat to open in 5 minutes of idling. If you were driving it or revving the engine up, it might be.
Usually takes 10-15 minutes to reach operating temperature, if you have a a working thermostat. If yo remove the T-stat could take longer.@@ClintHolland
what do you do if your radiator doesn't have a radiator cap and only a coolant reservoir?? I own a Opel/Vauxhall Astra H 1.6 2007 ???
So the simple answer is it's a pain. Draining it is about the same but flushing and refilling it is horrible. You will refill it through the coolant reservoir but most cars have a bolt you have to loosen to bleed air so you can refill or flush it. It is usually the bolt on the thermostat or another bleeder valve. This isn't my video but see if this one helps. ruclips.net/video/IjqfgUPQ4hA/видео.html
@@ClintHolland thanks for the quick reply , will follow this procedure when I flush and change the coolant on my Vauxhall Astra 👍
I heard distilled water will steal elements from the metal in the cooling system because distilled water isn't happy water, as if it's unbalanced a little. So, the advice was mostly distilled plus a small amount of tap water.
That’s not how chemistry works. Distilled water doesn’t react which is why it doesn’t corrode. Whatever elements “stolen” probably needed to be flushed anyways.
I've tested Walmarts 'Distilled' water in the past. Not as distilled as one would think. Now, they may have purified it by distillation, but it's not TRUE distilled water. As pure distilled water does not conduct electricity.
Good to know Kevin and I didn't realize that. Do you have any suggestions on a reputable brand?
@@ClintHolland
I'm afraid I don't. I would imagine that water intended for a steamer would be good. Or one could distill it themselves. I'm probably gonna have to purchase several and test them lol
@@Handle_number_7 how did you test the water? Ive tested distilled water with a water meter i have? Just wondered if you test the same way i do?
Just a battery and electrodes. 100% pure distilled water does not conduct electricity. 9 volts was extremely active. I'm betting they remineralize the water. Or it's straight from the tap lol
You'll see bubbles forming on either side of the electrodes.
@@Handle_number_7 i have a meter that shows parts per million. I never bought walmart distilled before so i never tested that one.
hey so how do you connect the hoses after you finish? like after they're cut and does the coolant reservoir need to be empty?
+Dai Do You just connect them back like they were but with the T in the middle. Ideally you should empty the coolant reservoir. Sometimes this is quite difficult since most don't have a drain and you will need to suck it out using a pump.
?
Why didn't you loosen the engine block plugs?
My goal in this video was to show you how to use the flush kits you can buy at the store.
What's the difference in doing this on a vehicle that doesn't have a radiator cap
I wouldn't use this kit, pretty sure you can't, with a car that has the sealed coolant system.
Hi Clint. Would I be able to drain the radiator first before flushing it? Or do you recommend to flush it first and then drain?
You can certainly drain it first but it doesn't really matter. If it's really dirty, try a product called Thoro Flush. You can get it at most auto stores or Amazon and it works great.
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Does this also flush your heater core?
On most cars it does. Some cars have a heater control valve that only opens when the engine is hot which won't work for this flush kit. However, check out my other video on Flushing Stop Leak out if you need a good flush that includes the heater core. You can also pick up some heater core flush adapters that hook to your water hose.
If you open the drain plug will it still bubble like that?
Most likely. The drain plug probably can't drain it as fast as the hose can refill it.
I can just let the coolant run down my driveway into the street?? also if you remove the rubber line off the metal line and add a small heater hose in between you dont have to cut the expensive factory hose
You sure can if you run non-toxic coolant in your radiator like I do. I am big animal guy and switched all my vehicles over to it years ago when I learned that animals would drink it because it was sweet. You are correct but the risk of cutting your factory hose is overblown. If you cut the hose and want to take the tee out later, you can buy a connector and clamps for less than $5. Plus, leaving the tee in works great when you want to flush it again later.
Clint Holland Tastes bitter to me. Lots of spitting to get the taste out.
I prefer to buy a new hose and use the old one for the T, but OP may have stated a better way. Chunk of heater hose and remove when finished. 3 less failure points in the system.
@@caddyguy5369 Very valid point. Buying another heater hose is definitely a great route to go but this method works well to.
Clint Holland I actually just got done doing this the other day. I ended up just getting a hose barb of each the inlet and outlet heater hose sizes and some clear tubing. I plastic welded the hose barbs together and put everything in place of the heater core.
I'm doing this for the first time and have a couple questions. It looks like you add Irontite Thor Flush first, run engine 10 minutes, drain the radiator, (let engine cool some) then connect this kit and run water through? My other question is since the "T" is on the inlet hose doesn't this basically flush the heater core at the same time??
Depends on the vehicle. On this Dodge, yes. However, on some vehicles there is a heater control valve that doesnt open until the engine gets up to temperature and it's pretty hard to get it up to temperature with the cool water flowing from the hose.
Clint Holland Thank you!
Hi Chris, Believe I know the answer, however, just to be sure, this is not a back flush, correct? Secondly, does this flush the heater core? Thank you sir.
Correct. This isn't a back flush. And it will flush your heater core if you don't have a heater control valve. If you do, you will just need to run the heater and let the truck get up to operating temperature to do this.
Does the thermostat need to be removed?
It does not.
?
?
Thanks
I didn't see you add any type of chemical flush that would remove rust, corrosion. etc. This would not do a very good job on areal, dirty cooling system.
You are correct. This is a pure water flush to just flush out your old coolant. See my other video here on what I recommend you flush your system with. ruclips.net/video/L-M4RcFaNJ0/видео.html
You cant use the cleaner while doing this, You have to let the car run with radiator cap on for 10-15 min when using the cleaner. Repeat that at least 3 more times. Then let the car cool down and finally flush this way. Or you can do this backwards Thats how I did it today. Took all day but my engine was fully flushed.
How are you going to fill it 50/50 with all that water still in the block? It's nearly impossible to find pure antifreeze now?
You don't. Nor is it required. Just refill with the 50/50 mix and drive it a little. Once it has mixed up well, buy a cheap coolant tester and see if it is in specs of what you need. If not, add pure anti-freeze and keep retesting. This is only if you are a purist and want the mix to be a perfect 50/50, which it doesn't need to be. The main purpose of anti-freeze is in it's name. It is the keep the coolant from freezing. So if when you test it, it meets your needs even though it isn't at 50/50 there is no reason to try to hit that magical number. There are other factors of it such as anti-corrosion and boilover prevention but as long as the coolant tester shows it meets your needs, you are fine.
@@ClintHolland you're best to do it right and drain the block.
@@jjack6896 I am not saying you are wrong, just that draining the block is impractical and not needed. I am looking at the Toyota Dealer repair guide right now for a cooling system flush and even the manufacturer doesn't include draining the block in their dealer instructions.
Quick Fix that’s pretty odd I know it’s in Toyota manual for my FJ’s. FYI the manufacturer manuals aren’t always the best way. I’ve seen some really stupid ideas like pull the motor to change the timing chain.
@@ClintHolland Isn't it necessary to have the correct mixture to properly lubricate the water pump?
Flush with the tap water?
Absolutely. Flushing with tap water is fine. Just don't run your vehicle on tap water as it can cause corrosion even though that risk is over hyped as well. Flush with tap water and then refill with coolant and distilled water if necessary.
use very low psi .. about 12 psi.
So, I would run my engine system for 10 minutes with the Irontite Thor-Flush first and then do this flush, right?
I will be replacing my engine and must do a complete coolant system flush, especially since I did use the gunk stop leak [which didn't work], so that I don't void the warranty.
+Tabitha Morgan Correct. Irontite first and then do a water flush.
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Please correct me if I'm wrong, I never claimed to be an mechanical expert: When an engine starts, the thermostat remains closed keeping the coolant from circulating from radiator to engine, as the engine gets to operating temperature the thermostat opens then what? it dumps cold coolant into a warm engine. Something I believe you said never to do right?
I've been messing around with automobiles for a long time, what I always heard was to NEVER dump cold coolant into an hot engine that isn't running. I'd did a few coolant flushes in my time, and I always let the engine come up to operating temperature so the thermostat would open, I've never had a problem perhaps I was just lucky?
So you aren't wrong, just a different definition of cold. The coolant in your vehicle is never truly cold, except maybe in the winter time or colder climates. However, before it reaches the engine it sits in the radiator right next to the engine and is actually warmed up substantially by engine heat before the thermostat ever opens. If you dump cold water from your hose into the engine, it doesn't get this same warm up period. And to top that off, you actually can add cold water to a hot engine as long as you do it slowly instead of just dumping it all in at once.
Some pros tell you to drain the radiator, put in some flush chemicals , fill it back up with tap water, and drive it for 15-20 minutes or until it reaches operating temp and thermostat opens. Let it cool and then run the flushing process a couple of times. @@ClintHolland
@@RSW1484 That is correct and that's how I do it most of the time. However, if you have a plugged heater core or if your coolant was in pretty bad shape, this is a much better way. It just takes more time but it results in a better flush. You can also combine the two methods of using the chemicals and this kit.
Great video!
The instructions are on the back of the package.
Yet here we are 117,000 views later.
Did you drain the radiator first ?
It is recommended but even if you don't just run the flush for longer and it will accomplish the same thing.
Does this Also flush the heater core?
Randy Jackson On my dodge it does. If your vehicle has a heater control valve you will need to make sure the heater is on and run it long enough to heat up and open the thermostat.
Thanks for the quick response Chris. 98 dakota sport. Did not see a heater control valve. Will crank up the heater just to be on safe side. This crazy thing takes a long time on cold mornings to heat up. I was wanting to kill two birds with one stone.
thanks for the quick response but how do I capture it when it's coming out of the top of the radiator like that
Drain it first so that the only thing in your radiator is basically just water.
Oic thanks so much .
Watch them eyes with them dripping antifreeze.😉
Does this flush the heater core as well?
On most vehicles it does without any additional effort. Some vehicles have a heater control valve that only sends coolant to the heater core if the car is heated up and the heater is on.
@@ClintHolland thank you. My Ford ranger has the valve, but it engages with the heat on, so it should work
When you performed this on your vehicle does it clean out the heater core ?
It absolutely does as long as you let your vehicle warm up to standard operating temperature. What make and model do you have?
@@ClintHolland Dodge Ram 98 5.2
@@christopherdrake5585 Yep, that will work just fine on your Ram. Just let it warm up while you are doing this.
Yeah depends on how hard the water is. If ur in WA state with a hardness of 3, you are ok. In Texas with a hardnes of 20-30 nah.
VERY good instructional video indeed sir! One question though: Did the cute lil Doggy sauntering about in the background help you with this project? As I said, very good video - thanks for sharing!
She did. Bailey is super helpful and still likes helping out.
And hopefully he didn't lap up any of the coolant that flushed down the driveway?😲
I don't want to cut the hose 😂.. any other way avoiding that part?
Not to get a good flush. If you don't want to cut the hose, try just purchasing some cooling system flush. It won't be as good but it will work.
Will see if I can buy a piece of same hose to use on the flush, then put back the original one.
@@rapidfirest You could also just buy a connector as you should have enough slack to join them back together.
@@rapidfirest sure if your scared take it to a certified mechanic so you can throw money in his pocket. If you don't try you will never succeed
how do I flush it then if my coolant is not environmentally friendly
One of two options. Capture it in a bucket and either dispose of it at your local recycling center or flush it down your toilet. Just don't pour it in a storm drain or anywhere like that.
Don't flush it down the toilet.
Yes, do not flush it. Antifreeze is very toxic and it’s the last thing you want to introduce into your water system.
Okay so I'm new to this is my first time doing radiator flush now I'm using a radiator cleaner chemical not Prestone another brand but it's same idea however data get because using distilled water so you don't have to worry about tap water for instance I have really hard water containing a lot of limestone I can watching use the system I don't see how it gets all of the tap water out as you said just draining the radiator does not drain the water out of the whole system so I don't see how this is a good thing not to mention the fact that all of that crap just went on the ground and obviously some of that s*** probably contain coolant even if in small amounts I just don't like the idea of not collecting it since I have pets so I have to say wouldn't it be better to run the cleaning chemical through it then flush it once or twice by filling it back up with distilled water running it for awhile and draining it and after that adding in concentrate antifreeze based on the maximum capacity of your system that just seems a lot better and it saves you from having to worry about tap water especially if you're like me with hard water that's not going to be good for an engine at least I don't think it would be
If you want to be by the book, then you technically should use distilled water. However, and the reason it really doesn't matter, is because anti-freeze has corrosion preventers and inhibitors that basically neutralize the small amount of tap water left behind. If you really want peace of mind, buy a coolant tester for like $10 and test your coolant when you are done. You will see that it passes with flying colors even with some tap water left behind. The issue is that you really can't do a good flush on your vehicle just by using distilled water. You need to be able to use the water hose which of course is just tap water.
Start at 2:50
You supposed to catch the coolant to recycle.
Not really necessary if you run non-toxic coolant like I do.
I would've liked to have seen the missing 5 minjtes you cutout of your engine running. I wanted to see how dirty the rest of the coolant was. Yes, i have better things to do, but i have a FF button.
ANYBODY make the flush T out of metal? I just put new hoses on & if I cut one I'd rather put in a metal T instead of a plastic one
Not that I am aware of. I know you can buy a metal straight through connector that you can put back in when you finish. Better than leaving this plastic one in but mine has held up for 5 years now without an issue.
@Bodhi Gurley You sure do. It comes with a cap. I have several cars that have had that T installed for 10 plus years and have never had an issue.
Your alternator looks easy to replace.
It actually was.
Fast forward to 2023, that distilled water is $1.39 a gallon.
If you can even find it. I have had trouble getting Distilled water for the last couple months.
@@ClintHolland I had to go to three different places.
do you mean to leave the radiator cap on and have it flush out to the bottom?
Exactly. At least until all the coolant is out.
Shouldn't you drain first then flush with water . You just flushed coolant all over your driveway where dogs and cat cold now be poisoned . Just saying.
Potentially but I run non-toxic coolant in my vehicles so it isn't an issue. I recommend everyone do that actually.
It work thank you
Dude.. normal operating temps are around 200 degrees. I seriously doubt cool water is going to cause any damage. The damage comes from putting cool water into an overheated engine. I guess it's better to be safe than sorry though.
Follow this advice at your own risk - and that of your engine.
Legit🤙 thanks
Thanks for watching.
Do I run the heat when flushing
Ideally. Some vehicles have heater control valves which means you aren't actually flushing the heater core unless you have the heat on.
Be carefull that your dog does not drink that coolant you flushed out on the ground.
Agreed. Or run non-toxic coolant so it isn't an issue.
Just watch a chrisfix video. He literally shows you step by step how to do a super flush.
Listen, I love ChrisFix as much as the other guys but be careful doing a super flush on a car thats been around for a while. Aggressive flushes can easily cause more leaks in your system and potentially cause you some major issues. You don't want to super flush your system. You want the least aggressive and corrosive flush you can do as anything else can cause damage.
@@ClintHolland good to know.
My '98 Dakota 318 had heater problems. Bought it off a lot. Some dkhd had used some type stop-leak/sealer (never found out what) in the engine prior to selling it. Replaced rad, water pump (which was weeping), thermostat, and also found the flapper door inside WAS working, so I asked a pro. He suggested Lime-Away. I began the back flush doing the same steps this guy used, but ran at idle for about 2 hrs. with my heater on full, circulating the stuff through the whole system. Flushed 3x with distilled water and refilled the system with 60/40. Coulda done it all again for what these kits cost. Won't burn your feet, but warms up pretty good to be 22 years old.
By the way, at 10:48 it looked like a pee-hole in the bottom of the radiator when he opened the cock. That could cause coolant loss!
Saw your dog roaming by at 13:50. Coolant is very dangerous for dogs, they like to lick it because it's sweet. Yours is pretty diluted by that point but wanted to make sure everyone knows.
I appreciate the concern but I only run non-toxic coolant in my vehicles. My dad started me on that as soon as it became a thing and it's pretty much all I use now.
You should also have a ground wire to your radiator
What a messy way of doing it plus all that toxic waste goes into the environment.
What is the alternative to doing this at home? Also note, you can and should run non-toxic coolant in your automobile so it isn't an environmental issue.
@@ClintHolland interesting I never knew about non toxic antifreeze. I just removed the valve at the bottom and then added distilled water from the top let it run thru the system. Drained it again. Did that twice. Had a big pan on the bottom. Had no waste on the ground. And was pretty much very neatly done.
@@NeutronX101 Yep, definitely a great product to use if you have animals and it's only slightly more expensive. I suspect one day it will be all they allow us to use. I have watched too many crime shows where someone poisoned their spouse using it.
@@ClintHolland yes.
I can't believe you cut a hose to do all this just to flush your engine coolant. Totally unnecessary. You can do it without being so destructive. But whatever. You do you I guess.
I am simply following the instructions on the package. Cutting a heater hose is not that big of a deal, they cost like $10. I also have another video of using chemicals to flush your system. However, the truth is that if you aren't willing to cut or disconnect a heater hose, you will spend hours flushing your system versus minutes.
@@ClintHolland I get it. Whatever works for you. I just wouldn't do it that way I suppose. As long as you achieve the end result required.🤘
THANK YOU
Thank you for watching. Hope this helps you flush your radiator.
This sounds like Kyle petty doing the narrating.🇵🇱🇺🇸
I will take that as a compliment. Thanks for watching.
pure water is a better coolant than antifreeze????? REALLY.. I HAVE NEVER HEARD THAT BEFORE IN MY LIFE!
It sure is. We mainly use antifreeze to prevent freezing, hence the name. The specific heat of all forms of antifreeze is lower than that of pure water, making them worse at cooling than water, sometimes by as much as 20%. See this article for a better explanation. www.hotrod.com/articles/glycol-or-water-coolant/
Just purchase more gallons of distilled water and only use that water to flush.
forgot to say open your heater valve
The Dodge Dakota doesnt have a heater control valve but valid point in many other models.
your Telling me the water constantly runs through the heater core
+Chris Myers Yes sir. And anyone who has ever had a heater core leak on a Dakota will confirm. If you have a leak in your heater core it will leak from the moment the thermostat opens until you have no coolant left to leak, even while running the AC.
Yep. In a minute
Water also contains no lubricant for water pump seals, turns to steam, and boils early at high altitude...Water is never better than coolant.
Agreed on all most points except the fact that water is in fact better at cooling at your engine than antifreeze. That is the point I was trying to make. Many people in temperate climates run water and only water in their cars and have for years. The water pump seal lubrication myth has been busted many times as well. But agreed, it does turn to steam at lower temperatures than antifreeze but with the pressure most systems are under even then it doesnt boil until 257 degrees F which is fine for most engines.
@@ClintHolland you are talking about minor differences in water vs coolant ability to exchange motor heat with the atmosphere. If you believe what you say fill your cooling system with water and take a drive through the desert southwest in July and August, or climb Raton Pass in the summer. Water really cools best when a 13 lb cap blows steam. Nothing cools a motor better than water turning to steam. Race cars use water because they are specialized and coolant pollutes the track. Under your thinking alcohol would be the best coolant or a high pressure system using freon, or even canned aerosol dust remover. Supporting your concept though, coolants are rarely used in their pure form, they always have some proportion of water. Ethylene glycol is alcohol which is way more efficient than water at heat exchange as well as propylene glycol.
I hope some inexperienced person does not read your comment, then in an excited state about an upcoming X-country trip to California, decides to flush his cooling system, then wanting to add the best coolant according to you, decides to refill it with distilled water at $1 per gallon as opposed to 50/50 coolant at $13.50. His theoretical trip taking him, his wife, and new baby through west Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada and finally California. Not having replaced his 13 lb radiator cap with a 20 Lb cap he will most likely be on the side of the road with steam billowing out of his cooling system because the desert floor was 140 degrees F, his altitude was 6500 feet, and he had his AC on max to keep his wife and baby cool. But say for a moment he did put on that 20 psi cap, then he might be on the side of the road with that old radiator hose split because of the excess pressure, and steam blowing out that gaping split. He will be lucky if it is the top hose, that way he wont lose all his water...But since you say that lubricity is a myth, then he probably wont lose the water pump to the lack of lubrication but rather to the over heating and of course the thermostat will soon fail after an over heating incident.
So water may transport and exchange heat slightly better than the glycol coolant in a laboratory environment its not a better coolant for your car. However the math supports your position.
@@JA-ux7dd Ok.
@@JA-ux7dd Holy moley Karen…
🙂
haha you flushed and let it go all over without catching it?
I only run non-toxic coolant in my system so it shouldn't be a big deal.
Yep, he wet the truck bed on thatn. Good thing it was the hypoallergenic coolant so as to not spill a bunch of poisonous stuff lol. Your driveway n animals n family... They say mynute amounts have no long term effects...lol, we've prob all done somthn like that at somepoint on the reels...🙃✌
Make sure your dog is not around when you are doing this, cause puppies will likely lick it and get sick.
This process is wrong. You can see in the video the toxic coolant (green colour) spilling out of the radiator into the ground. This is lethal for humans and pets - and bad for the environment. Coolant should captured in a container and recycled at a designated station.
+John Dawson You are correct in general but not in this specific situation. Many of the new coolants of today, including the one I use, are non-toxic to humans and pets. As a matter of fact, the main ingredient in them is approved by the FDA for use in foods.
John Dawson you're wrong. and also inflammatory so just take a breath and calm down.
Don't be such a pussy John Dawson
And I just saw a dog walk by, in your video! Not smart
You could try running non-toxic coolant in your car like I have for many years.
!
U
You're super super chatty, u almost lost me at 2½ minutes.. I'm glad I watched the whole thing, but bud you gotta stop repeating yourself so much... Thank you for the video..
Thanks for watching. This was one of my first videos. I would like to think I have gotten better and care more about my viewers now than I did making long videos for RUclips. Live and learn but thanks for the kind words.
You can increase/decrease the playback speeds. Almost any instructional video needs to be increased 1.5x - 2x in order to get through it without losing interest lol.
Your s glass half empty eh.. Alot of people get quiet and you bout hafta guess what's goin on cuz they think, am I soundn like a dousch right now, how many hits will this get....Arrghhh, no face shots, everything below chest...!!!
Wutter.
Hi h t
thanks for the video but you talk to much, a lot of redundancy.
Thanks for watching. I realize that and have tried to get better through the years of making these videos. This one was one of my first.
Why be an ass? He is trying to show you some valuable tips and all you can do is insult him, go away. Your video is great Clint, thank you for the tutorial.
It's obvious you do not know how to do this correctly. You are suppose to put the angled part in the top of the radiator with a hose connected to it. The hose goes into a bucket. YOU DO NOT FLUSH THE ANTI FREEZE ONTO THE GROUND!! You then bring the used antifreeze to a recycling facility. Anti freeze is lethal to anything that drinks it.
It's also obvious that you didn't actually watch or listen to the video. If you had, you would have heard me cover why I didn't use the deflector tube at around 3:30 seconds, it didn't fit by the way, a common complaint from people online about this kit as well. You will also notice, again if you actually watched the video or looked at the description, that my vehicle didn't have anti-freeze in it and had already been flushed so allowing it to flow on the ground was completely safe. But let me do you one better. Had you read the description for the video, I even mentioned that I run non-toxic anti-freeze in all my vehicles and have been for years so even if I wanted to drain it on the ground, I can. But thanks for watching, or kind of watching.
I never introduce tap water into my cooling systems. Good way to stop up the system. You cannot get it all out.
It's not nearly as big of a deal as people make it out to be. Just make sure when you are done that you refill it with distilled water and coolant. All coolants today contain anti-corrosives which neutralize any remnants from the tap water.
some nice music and reading instructional would of kept me really Intrigued talking talking talking is nice although T.M.I
Would have*
And I disagree. Obnoxiously loud, over-used, crappy uncopyrighted songs pulls the concentration of the topic away from the purpose. The people generally viewing these type of videos lack the knowledge that is focused within them, and distractions like crappy music, and horrible sound distribution causes people to lose focus.
You can miss something or overlook something.
If you prefer reading, you might try a book. Typically videos are a visual source of information, not a written one. Common sense should compel you to automatically understand the concepts that define their purpose, but I guess that doesn't come naturally to everyone.
Also, there is an option of subtitles available, automatically generated subtitles that are lacking in punctuation, but you obviously don't acknowledge the functions of punctuation anyways, so there is some video reading material fit for your level of intelligence.
They're not blocking off parts of the screen in huge prints or colorful fun fonts, but this is RUclips, not Sesame Street.
So I respectfully disagree. I would love to see more in depth videos like this one that do not run away from the purpose because the simple minded need shiny bright colors and music to watch it.
The video is about working on a vehicle, so it's entire viewing range is based around adults who aren't afraid to get their hands dirty, and want to learn some diy mechanic stuff. It's not made for kids who need sing alongs and fancy fonts to pay attention.
I'm well aware that this was written 10 months ago, but if you can find logic in complaining about a lack of irrelevant distractions then my logic of responding to that shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone with half a brain.
half ass job..sorry
Will this flush a clogged heater core?
It sure will. I actually used it for that purpose on my Dodge Dakota.
Does this flush the heater core?
No, you will need to buy a coolant flush "liquid" I recommend Prestone. Then run your heater on high for 20 minutes. After that drain the radiator them do this procedure
The truth is it depends. If your vehicle has a heater control valve, then this won't flush it because the car won't get hot enough for it to open. If your vehicle doesn't, then this will flush it.
Do I have to cut the hose ? Or can I disconnect it
Cut ✂️ the hose in a straight section of the hose
You have to cut it to connect the included T. If you don't want to cut it, you can buy a short piece of hose from the auto parts store that matches your size and temporarily install and cut it. Then when you are done just put your original back in.