I've followed you now for maybe 3yrs, I practice like hell, get better each time, and its all down to you, my friend. Your tutorials are so succinct, straight to the point, and your images just inspire me.
Brilliant work once again Richard, you not only take great night photos but you also inspire us all to try to emulate what you show us. You are an excellent tutor and your enthusiasm for your work is on show for all to see and it helps us to feel the same way and learn from you. I am a huge fan of what you do as I know how hard it really is and the patience that you need, thank you for sharing all your workings with us, it is great of you to pass your skills on 😁👍
Thank you Richard! As one in the past who has requested both histograms and detailed instructions on light painting, I want to express how appreciative I am for this video! I think this was your clearest instruction yet on the fine art light painting process in the field (literally hah!). And your final image as always... Flawless. In reading the comments, I am also delighted to see so many new night shooters flocking to your channel. Good on you!
Thank you for this.... it's a video I had not watched before. Your lighting seems like a lot longer than I would have expected. Thanks for recommending watching this one!
As I mentioned previously, it all depends on the subject, and the light source etc. Also how close you are to the subject. And as well as that, you can manipulate the camera settings to change those factors as well.
Brilliant, Richard! Two things I especially liked: First, you showed the back of your camera so we could see when you released the shutter and when the exposure was complete. Second, I was amazed at how close your painting timing coincided with your shutter time. You have been doing this so long and so well, you must have an internal timer. Final image is outstanding. Really, really liked this video.
Great fun here Richard. It's amazing how it all fits together like pieces of a puzzle. It's great that you are pointing out really important issues like the variability of ISO and dynamic range.
Very few people share their knowledge with such passion. Thank you so much for putting together all the efforts and teaching your techniques to beginners like me.....
Great info! Thanks! I got the Milky Way with lighted subject buzz when i captured (On my Iphone 12 pro) the Milky Way and light painted Harley..in one exposure. Came out surprisingly well, and now I've got the night shooting bug. Cheers
One of your best vids yet mate…I know it’s hard but that “in the field” video is awesome, especially for someone like me in Brissy who might not be able to get to one of ur workshops….keep them up mate….love that image too
Thanks Richard for this fantastic video, it's always good to remember and practice these light painting techniques, the photos gain another dimension. Until the next video
Thanks for the excellent video Richard, I have been using the technique that you have taught for the past year getting some great results and for this I thank you. I have watched videos from many different tutors but yours are always the easiest to follow, keep up the good stuff.
I've really learnt alot from these last few videos. Seeing you go through the whole process of light painting in depth has been super helpful. Thankyou for taking the time to do these videos and share your knowledge. Awesome image as always. Much appreciated Richard.
Una vez más gracias por compartir tus conocimientos, he visto miles y miles de tutoriales y en ninguno enseñan la verdad de como conseguir esas imágenes....todos tus tutoriales, absolutamente todos son de los únicos que se aprende al 100% de conseguir una foto de la que sentirse orgulloso, mil gracias Richard !!!
This is a very good demonstration of how to do the light paintig in the field. I think most of your subscribers have been looking forward to watching this including myself. The only thing is that I have not found any good subject to be featured in the scene. You are really lucky in this regard. Thanks a lot for this video.
Well not always, but in this case I am able to be really specific with the areas to be lit. I usually get pretty close with this method though as I';m not worried about getting in the frame as I'll be rubbed out in post processing later.
I appreciate the depth you put in to explaining why you do certain things, and not just a "follow this recipe exactly" type of guide. Very clear guide. I can't wait to try. Keep up the good work!
I can't tell you how much I love your videos Richard. I have a old truck that I really want to try to do a nigh shot on, but it is not oriented in a way that I can capture the sky, and it is in an urban setting so light from the fairly heavily trafficked area is also a concern. That being said, I am motivated to try, and plan to go over to the owner to gain permission. Best wishes for a wonderful vacation!
Another excellent video Richard . I love your images and instructional videos. They are just brilliant. You are very generous in sharing your knowledge and I thank you for explaining your methods and techniques. I love your enthusiasm which always inspires me and makes me want to keep getting out there chasing those night shots.
Richard, I really want to thank you for these wonderful explainers of how you light paint your foregrounds. I've taken your technique and applied them to my shots and it really adds an extra dimension to the astro-landscape shot. It is nice to see shots with some living plant life in them, mine tend to feature more dead stuff. Here in Southern California, if there's water there's people and light pollution, so we have to travel out to the local deserts to find dark skies. Thanks again, and best wishes on your road trip.
Excellent video and details on the fine art of light painting, Richard...your method brings spectacular images to the table each and every time!....Have a great road trip and looking forward to the next video....cheers!
great video again Richard as you know ive seen you do this way of shooting many many times before but i always learning something new .have a good road trip.
Brilliant refresher video, Richard, and a fantastic final image! I've been using your fine art lighting method for some time now, but it was only after watching this video that I learned that the torch is on low power (I have the same torch as you). I'm now keen to try standing much closer to the subject and using the torch on the lower power setting and light painting with that. Please keep doing what you're doing.....the video content and delivery are excellent and always inspiring and motivating. Thanks, as always.
Great video as always Richard. The final image looked fantastic when all the layers were placed together. Love those old trucks, they make for great subject matter. Cheers for sharing mate 🍻🙏
Great video again RT, the old Austin come up a treat, true and proven light painting each time gives amazing detail. Great video :) enjoy your road trip....
A treat as always Richard! Love how you explain the process and the composure of the shot. Have learned so much from your videos! Thanks again for sharing your inspiration and knowledge.
Again another great video Richard, now to get out and put it to use! It’s ingrained into my brain now what to do and what not to do. Appreciate the effort you go to sharing your knowledge with others! 👍😊
This was a cracking episode Richard and your A7Siii did a great job on the videography! Any time that you're able to include a sequence on your actual light painting technique, taking into account what it is that you're trying to achieve/avoid, would be much appreciated 👍
Thanks so much for the video! I've been just getting into shooting abandoned houses here in Ontario, CAN, and have been trying different techniques. I will definitely have to use your method next time out under the stars! Thanks again!
G'day Richard. A classic piece of work there mate, truly beautiful image. I met a guy the other day who in passing mentioned he was looking at taking night images so, of course, I recommended your site :). Keep well mate, stay safe.
Thank you again for a wonderful and patient explanation on light painting subjects at night. Really enjoy your teaching method of not just how to do it, but also WHY. Great video and much appreciated Richard. Good luck on your upcoming road trip.
Thank you very much Richard for this inspiring video with your great method 👍. Beautiful sky there too - which is very seldom in my cologne area. Also perfect to understand the way you do these light paintings. As a final result: wonderful quality of your photos 😁. All the best to you, thanks, Dietmar
What an epic shot once again mate. Love that old truck, so much character😀😍. Looking fwd to your next adventure. Have an amazing weekend Richard! Cheers
Love the old truck...I wont be sitting inside it anytime soon though 😂. Interesting re the light painting...I have the Sony a7iii, with 20mm Sony f2.8 lens. If I got as close as you did and using the same settings, mine is so blownout...I need to stop down to about f8, and stand back even further. And that was using a torch that is not suite as bright as yours. This torch carked it the last time I used it (the old boiler), so I bought a Led Lenser p7, which is even brighter again 🙄. I have put the gel over it, but I have a feeling its still going to be a bit bright!!
Thank you Richard, very inspiring…again. Already thinking about some places where I could use this method. But think I will go for a long stick to put the light on. Certainly for one shot I’m thinking about. A little abounded cabin I photographed previously with the MW. Seems to mee that such a telescopic stick would help you as well. They are really cheap and go up to 3 meters long. And already bought the Ulanzi’s but to mount them I bought two little tripod Joby Telepod 325. Thank you for that as well.
Another good informative video. Richard have you considered obtaining a Cam Ranger? It is an excellent reasonably priced device that controls your camera remotely by WiFi. You can instantly review your shots on your phone or tablet and make adjustments if needed. You won’t have to return to your camera. It will do many other tasks such as time lapse and focus stacking easier than with your camera software. You can do all this at distances, in my experience, of over 100 meters if needed with good sight lines. Butch
Thanks a lot for watching Butch. A few people have suggested the Cam Ranger . .. but to be honest I already have so much gear to take with me .. It's sometimes just easier to walk back to check the camera every now and then. The other thing is that when using wifi the camera battery life is far worse.
Great video Richard Thanks for showing us all how to do it properly On that old truck does it ever lineup with the milky way if you have both doors opened and you shoot through the truck so your foreground is actually the inside of the truck and then you have the milky way milky way in the background with the use of all the cobwebs That would be an interesting shot.
Thanks again for the content Richard. Also, your Nikon Z6 technically has better dynamic range at ISO 800 than it does at 500 due to High Conversion Gain kicking in at ISO 800. I’d rather just use ISO 800 than 400 through 700 on the Z6. HCG kicks in at ISO 400 on the Z7 bodies.
Very good info Ryan. I have used all different settings and not noticed a lot of difference . .but I do pretty much always shoot with my tracker at 800.
Absolutely amazing video Richard. Great to learn this on site light painting. I was wondering if you could do a dedicated video showing your editing workflow for the very same photo shoot, it will be of great help to me. Thanks.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks Richard for this link. I went through this again and loved it watching, I hope coming weekend I will practice this. Thanks again.
Once again, thanks so much for being so generous with your knowledge and information. One thing I'm curious about is your decision making process when choosing camera settings for the sky images in this shoot. My goto settings for my Nikon Z6 + 20mm S lens are 15s, f1.8, ISO 3200 WB 4000K. I know you often use similar settings. What made you choose f2.8 ISO 6400 for this shoot (was it the proximity of the foreground)? Also why 4500K rather than 4000K (even though I know this can be adjusted in post). Thanks in advance Richard, regards Greg
Thanks Greg. I usually stop down the lens a bit to get cleaner edges to the image. I find that the Z6 cruises along with no problems at iso6400 so either way can work quite well. The proximity of the foreground makes no difference to iso settings. Aperture .. yes though. As you say, the white balance can always be adjusted. .I often experiment with different settings to see what I can get.
On May 30, this year, the beginning of the New Moon period, at 8:15pm, Sagittarius will be 14 degrees above the horizon. Sounds good. But in your opinion, at what elevation above the horizon does it become too difficult to photograph the galactic core without lying on the ground under your tripod? In the southern hemisphere at least, is there a practical limit to elevation if you intend to get the good bits in with one exposure?
Well to be honest I don't approach it like that. I can shoot the rising galactic core with my 20mm lens right into the first part of July. But of course you can shoot panoramas and pretty much capture it all year round. Obviously it becomes more difficult to compose the foreground in the shot when it's high overhead but then you have to get creative. Use trees and high objects to frame the stars.
Great video Richard, thank you! I’m curious to know if you used all the light painted shots and how much masking you needed on the grass. I think I need one of your torches, mine is too bright.
Thanks for watching Mares. In this case I did use all the shots but many times I don't need to. I usually put a graduated mask across the grass to fade it in from the edges. Yes bright torches are no good for this type of work.
Hello, Mr. Richard Tatti My name’s Enrique, I’m from Spain. I love your astrophotography and light painting works, as well as all the edit process you make in Lightroom and Photoshop. But I have some questions to ask: Is it not possible to make a panoramic photograph of the full Milky Way at your latitude? And, if it’s possible to do, would you be so kind to make a video showing the technique and the process needed for that? Your videos taught me another way of approaching light painting and astrophotograpy. Thank you very much!
(Sorry for any error, english isn’t my first language)
Great video Richard and a wealth of detailed info, thanks for being so open with your techniques, especially the no need to refocus just stop down the lens. One setting you use that always stumps me is the shutter speed you use. I find on my Sony 20mm lens that even at 10 second the stars trail. Is it something to do with the lower megapixels of the Z6 sensor? Or do you not worry that you get a bit of trailing as a trade off for using the same shutter speed for your foreground, is this another Richard secret technique?
Hey Keith, thanks heaps for watching mate. There are a number of factors that contribute to the star trailing. Yes the lower megapixel camera will impact that. Also the fact that I'm stacking multiple images tends to help as well . .I have sometimes shot at 20 seconds and not noticed heaps of trailing after stacking. The other thing is stopping down the lens a little to f2.8. It helps the corner sharpness a fair bit. To be fair, I am happy to tolerate a bit of trailing to get a better exposure.
Thanks so much Alasdair. I left the white balance at 4500k for the light painting on this one. Sometimes I'll change it but roughly that's my go to nowadays.
They are all the same Mat . . .the only difference is the cable that connects to the camera. This is what you need: www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-Wireless-Shutter-RF-603II-C3/dp/B00NL4ZNO0/ref=sr_1_10?crid=23SXUNVANCVCV&keywords=yongnuo+rf603cii&qid=1650690807&sprefix=yongnuo+rf603ii%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-10
Love the video once again. Was great being able to see again the techniques from the workshop. Incidentally what brand of lens heater do you use? Cheers Dave
Thanks again for your support David. I use a few different types ..they have been a little hard to get. See this one: www.amazon.com.au/SVBONY-Heater-Telescopes-Temperature-Regulator/dp/B08DLZQTRQ/ref=asc_df_B08DLZQTRQ/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463597831805&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9003600949928033129&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1000498&hvtargid=pla-1652072211268&psc=1
Hey Richard thank you once again for your generous knowledge. I've booked to go back to rostrata in may so can practice the lessons again! Timely to see the video on lens warmers as I don't currently have one. Thanks once again.
Another excellent video and what's not to like about old trucks!? Question, what did you use for lighting in the first step before light painting? Secondly, why not shoot at 100 ISO, stop way down then reduce shutter speed accordingly?
Yes you can't beat an old truck. I'm assuming you mean when I'm shooting the video . .. I just used a small LED light panel. I could shoot at iso100 but I have to put a lot more light into the image to get the same exposure. I don't see any loss of image quality from iso 100 to iso800 at all.
Thanks for the video, Richard. My apologies if this has already been asked in the comments, but what factor(s) do you consider for your choice of ISO? I notice you use ISO 6400 most of the time. Specifically, I am referring to the star images that you will eventually stack in post.
That's a very good question David. I could certainly shoot at a much lower iso and raise the exposure in post to achieve a similar result, but I like to see what I've got at the time of shooting. With the equipment I'm using the high iso isn't an issue. We have to work out what works best for the camera and lens we are using. Trial and error. The whole idea of stacking is to reduce noise so a little initial noise isn't a bother to me.
Hi Richard! I have a question.... Wireless vs wired intervalometer, do you find that one works better than the other for your Nikon Z6? My wireless one seems to only work "part-time" with my camera (meaning that it will do one round of the plugged in settings and will not do it twice in a row with the exact same settings) and I'm working on narrowing down the issue. Thanks and have a great day/night!
Hey Laura. I've found that many wireless intervalometers are quite unreliable as you have suggested. I don't use any external intervalometers these days with the Z6. The internal one is fabulous. I use a wireless shutter release only as demonstrated in this video.
Hi Richard. I have got my Nikon Z6 II last month and I am about to learn my new gear. I am trying to follow your method in shooting the night sky by taking some sky-photos and some foreground-photos. My idea is to use the custom mode U1 for the sky settings and U2 for the foreground settings so I can work better in the dark. What do you think about?
That could certainly work George. Just keep in mind that sometimes the settings will change depending on ambient conditions such as moonlight, street lights or light pollution.
Hi Richard I have a question re stacking your star images for noise reduction. Do you think it is still better to stack images or have you tried say a program like Topaz Denoise to give a similar or even better result with noise reduction. .
Well I do have topaz de-noise and it works quite well. The stacking will possibly give a better result as you have more signal to play with . .so in theory stacking should be the better option if pushing the editing more.
The pants you’re wearing look comfortable, do you have a USA link to share? Also a link to the cellophane you use over the flash light would be great! Thanks much!
Richard it's amazing to see you transform the old rust into "Fine Art"! thank you so much!
You're very welcome Shawnie. Thanks for watching.
I've followed you now for maybe 3yrs, I practice like hell, get better each time, and its all down to you, my friend. Your tutorials are so succinct, straight to the point, and your images just inspire me.
Thanks for your very kind words of encouragement Derek. It means a lot.
Brilliant work once again Richard, you not only take great night photos but you also inspire us all to try to emulate what you show us. You are an excellent tutor and your enthusiasm for your work is on show for all to see and it helps us to feel the same way and learn from you. I am a huge fan of what you do as I know how hard it really is and the patience that you need, thank you for sharing all your workings with us, it is great of you to pass your skills on 😁👍
Thanks for your kind words of encouragement Duncan, it means a lot.
Well done old trout! That's what I envisaged when I suggested the idea of 'showing what the hand with the torch is doing'.
Thanks a lot Barry .. glad it's helpful.
One of the best youtube photography channel!! Great video Richard!!
Very kind of you to say my friend, thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. Added bonus, at about 6:05 you caught either s passing satellite or a shooting star on the right side of the frame.
Yes I did see that . .always miss them when out there live though ..!!!
Thank you Richard! As one in the past who has requested both histograms and detailed instructions on light painting, I want to express how appreciative I am for this video! I think this was your clearest instruction yet on the fine art light painting process in the field (literally hah!). And your final image as always... Flawless.
In reading the comments, I am also delighted to see so many new night shooters flocking to your channel. Good on you!
Thank you so much Chris, yes I'm happy to go over these processes again and again to help people out.
Thank you for this.... it's a video I had not watched before. Your lighting seems like a lot longer than I would have expected. Thanks for recommending watching this one!
As I mentioned previously, it all depends on the subject, and the light source etc. Also how close you are to the subject. And as well as that, you can manipulate the camera settings to change those factors as well.
Awesome Richard , well done.
Thanks so much Garry
Good to see the master in action, so much valuable information in this video.
Always appreciate you watching John.
Again Richard another gr8 video 📹 you have safe travels on your little trip don't forget your rum balls look forward to your videos of your jerney
Many thanks indeed Tree Man . . I'll do my best.
Your videos are as good as always 🙏
And I always appreciate your comments Andreas.
Outstanding!! Well done Richard
Thanks again for watching Dieter
Thanks much for the refresher of your technique.
I appreciate you watching Guy
Beautiful old truck.. nice video about lighting painting...have a nlce travel.
As always I appreciate you watching Luis.
Brilliant tutorial Richard, thanks for this...great result for your effort also.
Thank you so much for watching.
Brilliant, Richard! Two things I especially liked: First, you showed the back of your camera so we could see when you released the shutter and when the exposure was complete. Second, I was amazed at how close your painting timing coincided with your shutter time. You have been doing this so long and so well, you must have an internal timer. Final image is outstanding. Really, really liked this video.
You're very kind Bruce. Thanks for watching.
Morning Richard, another enjoyable video. My Saturday 8s off on a good start
Thanks a lot Phillip, always appreciate your comments.
Great fun here Richard. It's amazing how it all fits together like pieces of a puzzle. It's great that you are pointing out really important issues like the variability of ISO and dynamic range.
Thanks as always Paul. Appreciate you watching.
I am mesmerized by your videos . I have yet to try this . Misquotos here are HORRENDOUS !!!
Thanks as always by your kind comments.
Very few people share their knowledge with such passion. Thank you so much for putting together all the efforts and teaching your techniques to beginners like me.....
You're very welcome Tanveer.
Amazing photo with plenty of tips. Thx Richard!
Thanks so much for watching.
Brilliant work once again Richard
Thanks as always Brad.
Another great result with the old truck. Crisp skies with some green airglow down there on that night Richard. 👍
Yes it's been very green for quite some time now Geoff. It will be interesting to see how that SA sky is ..!!!!
Nice one great vid Richard.
Many thanks Gavin
Great info! Thanks! I got the Milky Way with lighted subject buzz when i captured (On my Iphone 12 pro) the Milky Way and light painted Harley..in one exposure. Came out surprisingly well, and now I've got the night shooting bug.
Cheers
Yes it certainly is a bug my friend .. all the very best.
Nice, this video is right on time . Got a few days off and planning a trip out. Your sky is so dark. Meteors at 6;01 and 6:04.
Thanks a lot Bruce. Yes it is very dark around here. I always miss the meteors when talking to the camera.
One of your best vids yet mate…I know it’s hard but that “in the field” video is awesome, especially for someone like me in Brissy who might not be able to get to one of ur workshops….keep them up mate….love that image too
It was a very difficult video to shoot but I'm really pleased you liked it.
Looking forward to the road trip!!
So am I John
Thanks Richard for this fantastic video, it's always good to remember and practice these light painting techniques, the photos gain another dimension.
Until the next video
Thanks so much for watching Mario.
Thanks Richard, love the photo and the tips. Have a great road trip.
Thanks heaps Andy, I'm looking forward to it.
Thanks Richard, excellent video
Many thanks indeed Marlon.
Wow what an awesome shot, but even a bigger WOW for the vid, so well explained and so easy to follow. Thank you Richard.
Really kind of you Paul. Thanks so much.
Thanks for the excellent video Richard, I have been using the technique that you have taught for the past year getting some great results and for this I thank you. I have watched videos from many different tutors but yours are always the easiest to follow, keep up the good stuff.
I really appreciate your kind words of support Peter . .thank you.
I've really learnt alot from these last few videos. Seeing you go through the whole process of light painting in depth has been super helpful. Thankyou for taking the time to do these videos and share your knowledge.
Awesome image as always.
Much appreciated Richard.
Very kind of you Mark. I appreciate you watching.
Una vez más gracias por compartir tus conocimientos, he visto miles y miles de tutoriales y en ninguno enseñan la verdad de como conseguir esas imágenes....todos tus tutoriales, absolutamente todos son de los únicos que se aprende al 100% de conseguir una foto de la que sentirse orgulloso, mil gracias Richard !!!
Very kind of you to say Francis, thanks so much for watching.
This is a very good demonstration of how to do the light paintig in the field. I think most of your subscribers have been looking forward to watching this including myself.
The only thing is that I have not found any good subject to be featured in the scene. You are really lucky in this regard.
Thanks a lot for this video.
Thanks so much for your comments. Yes it takes a lot of time to find these locations to shoot.
Awesome pics and the video too! Keep up the great work! Thanks for sharing!
You're very welcome Emanuel, I appreciate you watching.
Always enjoyable thanks Richard
I appreciate you watching Warren.
Eventhough you have made many similar videos, it is always a pleasure watching you creating a master piece. Thank you Mr Richard.
Yes I know that often we need to see something over and over to get a handle on it Milorad. Hopefully each time we see this it makes more sense.
That was a great tutorial Richard. Thanks for doing it. I can't wait to see more in the future. Keep up the great work.
Thanks a lot for watching Brian. Really appreciated.
Nicely done Richard! Great result!
So the key is is to get close to the object you are light painting if you are using that method.
Well not always, but in this case I am able to be really specific with the areas to be lit. I usually get pretty close with this method though as I';m not worried about getting in the frame as I'll be rubbed out in post processing later.
Well presented Richard.
Thanks for watching Tony
Good one Richard, and don't forget to take the battery chargers with you on your road trip lol.
Yes you are right . .I'll need them
I appreciate the depth you put in to explaining why you do certain things, and not just a "follow this recipe exactly" type of guide. Very clear guide. I can't wait to try. Keep up the good work!
I really appreciate you watching Eloyn. Thank you.
I can't tell you how much I love your videos Richard. I have a old truck that I really want to try to do a nigh shot on, but it is not oriented in a way that I can capture the sky, and it is in an urban setting so light from the fairly heavily trafficked area is also a concern. That being said, I am motivated to try, and plan to go over to the owner to gain permission. Best wishes for a wonderful vacation!
Thanks so much for your ongoing support Todd.
Fantastic to watch Richard, thanks 👍👍👍
Thanks for tuning in Brian
Great episode again, thanks there Richard. As always, wonderful result. Thanks for sharing 🍻🍀👍📸
As always I appreciate you watching my friend.
Another excellent video Richard . I love your images and instructional videos. They are just brilliant.
You are very generous in sharing your knowledge and I thank you for explaining your methods and techniques.
I love your enthusiasm which always inspires me and makes me want to keep getting out there chasing those night shots.
Thanks so much Tony. Really appreciate it
once again so much information and what a great old tuck and buitifull final image thanks for sharing your knowledge
I'm pleased you enjoyed it Ren. Thanks for watching.
Richard, I really want to thank you for these wonderful explainers of how you light paint your foregrounds. I've taken your technique and applied them to my shots and it really adds an extra dimension to the astro-landscape shot. It is nice to see shots with some living plant life in them, mine tend to feature more dead stuff. Here in Southern California, if there's water there's people and light pollution, so we have to travel out to the local deserts to find dark skies. Thanks again, and best wishes on your road trip.
Thanks so much for your very encouraging comments my friend. Lighting is always the key to a stunning image in my opinion.
Excellent video and details on the fine art of light painting, Richard...your method brings spectacular images to the table each and every time!....Have a great road trip and looking forward to the next video....cheers!
Thanks a lot my friend, always appreciated.
great video again Richard as you know ive seen you do this way of shooting many many times before but i always learning something new .have a good road trip.
Thanks again for watching Phill.
Simply AMAZING Richard, Wondaful job and really enjoy your photo art and channel, AWESOME...
Thanks so much for watching Keith.
Excellent tutorial and Photo! Thank you for sharing.
I'm pleased you enjoyed it Dom.
Brilliant refresher video, Richard, and a fantastic final image! I've been using your fine art lighting method for some time now, but it was only after watching this video that I learned that the torch is on low power (I have the same torch as you). I'm now keen to try standing much closer to the subject and using the torch on the lower power setting and light painting with that. Please keep doing what you're doing.....the video content and delivery are excellent and always inspiring and motivating. Thanks, as always.
Thanks as always Simon. Your encouragement is very much appreciated my friend.
Very good job, I really enjoyed the video, thank you very much I appreciate your work.
Thank you so much for watching.
Great video as always Richard. The final image looked fantastic when all the layers were placed together. Love those old trucks, they make for great subject matter. Cheers for sharing mate 🍻🙏
Yes the old stuff always comes up really well Adrian. Thanks for looking mate.
Excellent tutorial
Thanks for watching Walter
Great video again RT, the old Austin come up a treat, true and proven light painting each time gives amazing detail. Great video :) enjoy your road trip....
Thanks as always Alan
Keep up the on location video! Great stuff!
I'll do my best Wayne.
I've seen so much of your light painting masterpieces. As always, you're just remarkable! ❤
Well I really do appreciate you watching Robin
A treat as always Richard!
Love how you explain the process and the composure of the shot. Have learned so much from your videos! Thanks again for sharing your inspiration and knowledge.
You're very welcome Calvin.
Again another great video Richard, now to get out and put it to use! It’s ingrained into my brain now what to do and what not to do. Appreciate the effort you go to sharing your knowledge with others! 👍😊
You're very welcome Mat
Awesome video again Richard, love the image. Hopefully I will be doing a bit more light painting soon and fine tune the process. Thank you again 👍
Good on you Dennis, always appreciate your comments.
Excellent video, and awesome image Richard
Very much appreciated as always Stephen
Another masterpiece Richard, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I have learned so much from your videos!
Thanks so much for watching Frank. Appreciate your comments.
Great stuff again Richard, very well explained to make things easy to understand. Cheers
Thanks so much for watching Rob, really appreciate it.
This was a cracking episode Richard and your A7Siii did a great job on the videography! Any time that you're able to include a sequence on your actual light painting technique, taking into account what it is that you're trying to achieve/avoid, would be much appreciated 👍
Thanks as always for watching Paul, appreciate your comments.
Fantastic video Richard. Thanks for explaining and sharing your processes.
You're very welcome Kevin, appreciate you tuning in.
Thanks so much for the video! I've been just getting into shooting abandoned houses here in Ontario, CAN, and have been trying different techniques. I will definitely have to use your method next time out under the stars! Thanks again!
Thanks so much for watching Scott. Really appreciate that.
Another brilliant video Richard, clear and detailed, full of interest. I love the final image. Till next time have a fantastic trip.
Thanks so much for your great support Les.
G'day Richard. A classic piece of work there mate, truly beautiful image. I met a guy the other day who in passing mentioned he was looking at taking night images so, of course, I recommended your site :). Keep well mate, stay safe.
You're a legend John, thanks for your great support mate.
Thank you again for a wonderful and patient explanation on light painting subjects at night. Really enjoy your teaching method of not just how to do it, but also WHY. Great video and much appreciated Richard. Good luck on your upcoming road trip.
Many thanks indeed Bob. Always appreciate your comments.
Thank you very much Richard for this inspiring video with your great method 👍. Beautiful sky there too - which is very seldom in my cologne area. Also perfect to understand the way you do these light paintings. As a final result: wonderful quality of your photos 😁. All the best to you, thanks, Dietmar
Thanks so much for watching Dietmar. I really appreciate your comments.
What an epic shot once again mate. Love that old truck, so much character😀😍. Looking fwd to your next adventure. Have an amazing weekend Richard! Cheers
Thanks so much Peter. There may well be a few good spiders for you to chase around this old girl ..!!!!
@@nightscapeimages.richard haha I’m sure there would be!😀😀😀
Love the old truck...I wont be sitting inside it anytime soon though 😂. Interesting re the light painting...I have the Sony a7iii, with 20mm Sony f2.8 lens. If I got as close as you did and using the same settings, mine is so blownout...I need to stop down to about f8, and stand back even further. And that was using a torch that is not suite as bright as yours. This torch carked it the last time I used it (the old boiler), so I bought a Led Lenser p7, which is even brighter again 🙄. I have put the gel over it, but I have a feeling its still going to be a bit bright!!
Hey Carmel. What iso settings are you using ..????
@@nightscapeimages.richard iso 500
Thank you Richard, very inspiring…again. Already thinking about some places where I could use this method.
But think I will go for a long stick to put the light on. Certainly for one shot I’m thinking about. A little abounded cabin I photographed previously with the MW. Seems to mee that such a telescopic stick would help you as well. They are really cheap and go up to 3 meters long.
And already bought the Ulanzi’s but to mount them I bought two little tripod Joby Telepod 325. Thank you for that as well.
Thanks for watching Edward. It's a good idea to be able to get the light up higher when you need to.
Another good informative video. Richard have you considered obtaining a Cam Ranger? It is an excellent reasonably priced device that controls your camera remotely by WiFi. You can instantly review your shots on your phone or tablet and make adjustments if needed. You won’t have to return to your camera.
It will do many other tasks such as time lapse and focus stacking easier than with your camera software. You can do all this at distances, in my experience, of over 100 meters if needed with good sight lines.
Butch
Thanks a lot for watching Butch. A few people have suggested the Cam Ranger . .. but to be honest I already have so much gear to take with me .. It's sometimes just easier to walk back to check the camera every now and then. The other thing is that when using wifi the camera battery life is far worse.
Great video Richard Thanks for showing us all how to do it properly
On that old truck does it ever lineup with the milky way if you have both doors opened and you shoot through the truck so your foreground is actually the inside of the truck and then you have the milky way milky way in the background with the use of all the cobwebs That would be an interesting shot.
I have thought about that Jeff. It's unfortunately not the best composition as there are lots of trees through on that angle. Good concept though.
@@nightscapeimages.richard move the truck lol keep up the great work
@@PentaxLife Haha .. well that's certainly easier said that done . .no RH front wheel for a start ...!!!!
Thanks again for the content Richard. Also, your Nikon Z6 technically has better dynamic range at ISO 800 than it does at 500 due to High Conversion Gain kicking in at ISO 800. I’d rather just use ISO 800 than 400 through 700 on the Z6. HCG kicks in at ISO 400 on the Z7 bodies.
Very good info Ryan. I have used all different settings and not noticed a lot of difference . .but I do pretty much always shoot with my tracker at 800.
Absolutely amazing video Richard. Great to learn this on site light painting. I was wondering if you could do a dedicated video showing your editing workflow for the very same photo shoot, it will be of great help to me. Thanks.
Thanks so much for watching my friend. I have another editing video which is very similar here: ruclips.net/video/3uXHTmwcaFM/видео.html
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks Richard for this link. I went through this again and loved it watching, I hope coming weekend I will practice this. Thanks again.
Once again, thanks so much for being so generous with your knowledge and information. One thing I'm curious about is your decision making process when choosing camera settings for the sky images in this shoot. My goto settings for my Nikon Z6 + 20mm S lens are 15s, f1.8, ISO 3200 WB 4000K. I know you often use similar settings. What made you choose f2.8 ISO 6400 for this shoot (was it the proximity of the foreground)? Also why 4500K rather than 4000K (even though I know this can be adjusted in post). Thanks in advance Richard, regards Greg
Thanks Greg. I usually stop down the lens a bit to get cleaner edges to the image. I find that the Z6 cruises along with no problems at iso6400 so either way can work quite well. The proximity of the foreground makes no difference to iso settings. Aperture .. yes though. As you say, the white balance can always be adjusted. .I often experiment with different settings to see what I can get.
On May 30, this year, the beginning of the New Moon period, at 8:15pm, Sagittarius will be 14 degrees above the horizon. Sounds good. But in your opinion, at what elevation above the horizon does it become too difficult to photograph the galactic core without lying on the ground under your tripod? In the southern hemisphere at least, is there a practical limit to elevation if you intend to get the good bits in with one exposure?
Well to be honest I don't approach it like that. I can shoot the rising galactic core with my 20mm lens right into the first part of July. But of course you can shoot panoramas and pretty much capture it all year round. Obviously it becomes more difficult to compose the foreground in the shot when it's high overhead but then you have to get creative. Use trees and high objects to frame the stars.
Great video Richard, thank you!
I’m curious to know if you used all the light painted shots and how much masking you needed on the grass. I think I need one of your torches, mine is too bright.
Thanks for watching Mares. In this case I did use all the shots but many times I don't need to. I usually put a graduated mask across the grass to fade it in from the edges. Yes bright torches are no good for this type of work.
Hello, Mr. Richard Tatti
My name’s Enrique, I’m from Spain.
I love your astrophotography and light painting works, as well as all the edit process you make in Lightroom and Photoshop.
But I have some questions to ask:
Is it not possible to make a panoramic photograph of the full Milky Way at your latitude?
And, if it’s possible to do, would you be so kind to make a video showing the technique and the process needed for that?
Your videos taught me another way of approaching light painting and astrophotograpy. Thank you very much!
(Sorry for any error, english isn’t my first language)
Thanks Jose. Yes i have done quite a few panoramic videos. Maybe see here: ruclips.net/video/a35gttmohBw/видео.html
Thanks so much.
Great video Richard and a wealth of detailed info, thanks for being so open with your techniques, especially the no need to refocus just stop down the lens.
One setting you use that always stumps me is the shutter speed you use.
I find on my Sony 20mm lens that even at 10 second the stars trail.
Is it something to do with the lower megapixels of the Z6 sensor?
Or do you not worry that you get a bit of trailing as a trade off for using the same shutter speed for your foreground, is this another Richard secret technique?
Hey Keith, thanks heaps for watching mate. There are a number of factors that contribute to the star trailing. Yes the lower megapixel camera will impact that. Also the fact that I'm stacking multiple images tends to help as well . .I have sometimes shot at 20 seconds and not noticed heaps of trailing after stacking. The other thing is stopping down the lens a little to f2.8. It helps the corner sharpness a fair bit. To be fair, I am happy to tolerate a bit of trailing to get a better exposure.
Another fantastic video showing your shoot. What WB do you choose during the light painting part? What a fabulous final image
Thanks so much Alasdair. I left the white balance at 4500k for the light painting on this one. Sometimes I'll change it but roughly that's my go to nowadays.
@@nightscapeimages.richard much appreciated Richard, you have amazing night skies in the Southern Hemisphere, I’m very jealous
@@amacmedia3221 Yes they are great for sure.
Thank's for your tutorials, always great to watch. Did you recommend to put an half or a full CTO on the torch? Regards!
Thanks for watching. I use 1/2 cto on my torch. I find a full cto a bit too orange. The light inside the truck was a full cto.
Amazing content as always! Quick question, what Bortle level is the sky that you're under please?
Thanks so much for watching. The sky here at this location is between bortle 2 & 3
Richard the wireless trigger you use is obviously for Nikon’s but I was wondering if you know of one similar for a Canon? I have a 6DMKII
They are all the same Mat . . .the only difference is the cable that connects to the camera. This is what you need: www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-Wireless-Shutter-RF-603II-C3/dp/B00NL4ZNO0/ref=sr_1_10?crid=23SXUNVANCVCV&keywords=yongnuo+rf603cii&qid=1650690807&sprefix=yongnuo+rf603ii%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-10
Love the video once again. Was great being able to see again the techniques from the workshop. Incidentally what brand of lens heater do you use? Cheers Dave
Thanks again for your support David. I use a few different types ..they have been a little hard to get. See this one: www.amazon.com.au/SVBONY-Heater-Telescopes-Temperature-Regulator/dp/B08DLZQTRQ/ref=asc_df_B08DLZQTRQ/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463597831805&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9003600949928033129&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1000498&hvtargid=pla-1652072211268&psc=1
Hey Richard thank you once again for your generous knowledge. I've booked to go back to rostrata in may so can practice the lessons again! Timely to see the video on lens warmers as I don't currently have one. Thanks once again.
@@davidcollins482 They do come in handy when the dew drops down David.
Just learnt shedloads.
Thanks a lot for tuning in Paddy.
Thank you for video. What are the settings which film this video ? camera is a7 SIII ?
Yes I'm using the Sony A7s3 and Sony 24mm f1.4GM lens. I usually shoot at f1.4 iso60,000 25 frames per second.
Another excellent video and what's not to like about old trucks!? Question, what did you use for lighting in the first step before light painting? Secondly, why not shoot at 100 ISO, stop way down then reduce shutter speed accordingly?
Yes you can't beat an old truck. I'm assuming you mean when I'm shooting the video . .. I just used a small LED light panel. I could shoot at iso100 but I have to put a lot more light into the image to get the same exposure. I don't see any loss of image quality from iso 100 to iso800 at all.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thx for the prompt reply.
@@nightscapeimages.richard actually, when you're light painting. Do you add the LED into the mix?
@@1duesy No, the LED light is only so that the viewers can see me for the video.
Thanks for the video, Richard. My apologies if this has already been asked in the comments, but what factor(s) do you consider for your choice of ISO? I notice you use ISO 6400 most of the time. Specifically, I am referring to the star images that you will eventually stack in post.
That's a very good question David. I could certainly shoot at a much lower iso and raise the exposure in post to achieve a similar result, but I like to see what I've got at the time of shooting. With the equipment I'm using the high iso isn't an issue. We have to work out what works best for the camera and lens we are using. Trial and error. The whole idea of stacking is to reduce noise so a little initial noise isn't a bother to me.
Hi Richard! I have a question.... Wireless vs wired intervalometer, do you find that one works better than the other for your Nikon Z6? My wireless one seems to only work "part-time" with my camera (meaning that it will do one round of the plugged in settings and will not do it twice in a row with the exact same settings) and I'm working on narrowing down the issue. Thanks and have a great day/night!
Hey Laura. I've found that many wireless intervalometers are quite unreliable as you have suggested. I don't use any external intervalometers these days with the Z6. The internal one is fabulous. I use a wireless shutter release only as demonstrated in this video.
Hi Richard. I have got my Nikon Z6 II last month and I am about to learn my new gear. I am trying to follow your method in shooting the night sky by taking some sky-photos and some foreground-photos. My idea is to use the custom mode U1 for the sky settings and U2 for the foreground settings so I can work better in the dark. What do you think about?
That could certainly work George. Just keep in mind that sometimes the settings will change depending on ambient conditions such as moonlight, street lights or light pollution.
@@nightscapeimages.richard That is absolutely correct Richard. Thank you.
Hi Richard I have a question re stacking your star images for noise reduction. Do you think it is still better to stack images or have you tried say a program like Topaz Denoise to give a similar or even better result with noise reduction. .
Well I do have topaz de-noise and it works quite well. The stacking will possibly give a better result as you have more signal to play with . .so in theory stacking should be the better option if pushing the editing more.
The pants you’re wearing look comfortable, do you have a USA link to share? Also a link to the cellophane you use over the flash light would be great! Thanks much!
Thanks a lot for watching. They are very comfortable. No idea where you'd buy them in the USA. The gel is 1/2 cto get. You can buy from B&H.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks for responding Richard, any brand info on the pants would be appreciated, maybe I can find them on Amazon.
I bought them from Lowe's here in Australia