All that it's missing is a bass and treble tone circuit to get the nicest sound out of it. I still havn't warmed up to class D yet, linear transistor or valve amplifiers are my favorites.
I bought a switchable class D mono amplifier that can run on anything up to 24 volts. I stuck it into a vintage tube record player and at this time I'm just using the unit as an amplified speaker. I have it running on 12 volts so 10 watts and it is pretty loud. The original tube amp needs lots of work.
is it 3116 or 3118? btw sir which sounds better the tpa3116d2 or tpa3118? not concerned about power I'm more on the sound quality and efficiency of the chip for mobile applications. stay safe always
Most people buy dirt cheap tpa amps with all of the short cuts taken. Then 3118 implementations is better because of the native pin layout. When properly built the tpa3116 is best. The tpa3251 and tpa3255 is becoming cheap now so I would look into that instead. That will give your amps a run for its money for under 100usd, with some boards starting at 45usd.
The best way to feed signal to these boards is from a Bluetooth module because some phones doesn't have much power on the headphone output. These chips can take up to 3V of input signal. TPA3118 specs is 60w into 8 ohm speaker @ 24V
Yes and no. Yes they can be wired in place if you run the speaker outputs directly to the binding posts and isolate them from the chassis. This means no headphone jack and no speaker switch. The reason is these are BTL output and require both positive and negative speaker wires. Most amps have the negative terminal for the speakers grounded. That would obviously short and burn the module out. So yes you could make one work but it would be a fair but of work to do if. If the receiver has a pre out terminal on the back after the volume control it would work fine to a dedicated speaker pair. Then you would be using the receiver just as a preamp, tuner and input selector.
Looks OK. It is what it is I suppose and with my hearing it would be fine, I'm sure! Manufacturer's wattage ratings on these modules can be a tad high but if you keep well in spec they should be good for wee home projects!
I have a Bluetooth version of a similar Class D amp that has mysteriously stopped working. Worked fine when I put it away and now I can connect to the unit using Bluetooth but the amp produces no output.
The class D amplifiers that don't sound good are those with no or improper filtering between the chip and speakers. Of course the purest people want vinyl records played on hyper expensive turntables and played through a tube type Macintosh amplifier.
These little amp boards are really cool. There are tonnes of them out there now and often for under $20. My problem is that there are plenty of 50 watt by 2 boards, but it's nearly impossible to find either manufactured speakers in boxes/cabinets, or audio drivers for anything close to the same kind of cheap cost. Sure you can buy any sized driver, woofer, sub or tweeter or midrange but each one is going to cost you 3 to 5 times more than the amp board itself and then you have the cost of the cabinet or box build as well. Does anyone out there know of a cheap source for compatible speakers that can handle the up to 50W output that come in near the same cost as these little amp boards? There is so much potential for building portable bluetooth speakers, or even home theater or surround sound systems or just a nice stereo for the shop...but if a guy has to spend 200 bucks on the speakers it kind of defeats the purpose of a $16 amp board. I know old mini system speakers are easy to find at Good Will, Value Village or thrift stores, garage sales and whatever...but those are so often manufactured for looks not sound quality and their power rating is usually 10 or 20 watts max. I'd love to find a cheap source for drivers and build my own boxes and cross overs and so on.
Colin McDonald ,, second hand stores. There a crapshoot, but sometimes you can get lucky. Btw,, you can run 20 watt speakers off of 50 watts, just keep the signal clean from distortion, and amp clipping,, you'll be fine.
hit up walmart sometimes you can find deals for cheap book shelf speakers on the website. also cheap car speakers can and do work well with some cheap enclosures.
They don't produce much heat. I was running it pretty loud and the chip was only slightly warm to touch into 8 ohms. Mind you I was running at 12 volts so the power would be max about 15 or so into 8 ohms. They rate these all into 4 ohms.
It's odd how class D amps, once considered a weird quirk, are rapidly becoming the norm for consumer stuff. I get that the efficiency is a big plus these days but I'm concerned about potential RF interference levels... To be fair it looks like on that one, they've made a good effort to filter the output. It's the large number of 'cost optimised' consumer appliances that don't bother with filtering that might be the problem.
Well the filter is what makes it work, but the newer models use a carrier around 1.2mhz which uses a much smaller LC network to filter the carrier out. The low powered amps don't need shielding. The large line operated big amps are all completely shielded to prevent rf interference.
i could use one of those for my lap top.. but wanted to try build a little amp board.. MMMMM I THINK YOU GOT A BOT HOUND'IN YA!!!!(comment before mine!)
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
All that it's missing is a bass and treble tone circuit to get the nicest sound out of it.
I still havn't warmed up to class D yet, linear transistor or valve amplifiers are my favorites.
I bought a switchable class D mono amplifier that can run on anything up to 24 volts. I stuck it into a vintage tube record player and at this time I'm just using the unit as an amplified speaker. I have it running on 12 volts so 10 watts and it is pretty loud. The original tube amp needs lots of work.
is it 3116 or 3118? btw sir which sounds better the tpa3116d2 or tpa3118? not concerned about power I'm more on the sound quality and efficiency of the chip for mobile applications. stay safe always
Most people buy dirt cheap tpa amps with all of the short cuts taken. Then 3118 implementations is better because of the native pin layout. When properly built the tpa3116 is best. The tpa3251 and tpa3255 is becoming cheap now so I would look into that instead. That will give your amps a run for its money for under 100usd, with some boards starting at 45usd.
The best way to feed signal to these boards is from a Bluetooth module because some phones doesn't have much power on the headphone output.
These chips can take up to 3V of input signal.
TPA3118 specs is 60w into 8 ohm speaker @ 24V
I was wondering if these amps could be used in place for a receiver with a defective stk or power pack module thanx for vid.
Yes and no. Yes they can be wired in place if you run the speaker outputs directly to the binding posts and isolate them from the chassis. This means no headphone jack and no speaker switch. The reason is these are BTL output and require both positive and negative speaker wires. Most amps have the negative terminal for the speakers grounded. That would obviously short and burn the module out. So yes you could make one work but it would be a fair but of work to do if. If the receiver has a pre out terminal on the back after the volume control it would work fine to a dedicated speaker pair. Then you would be using the receiver just as a preamp, tuner and input selector.
@@12voltvids thanx so very much for your lengthy and complete reply thanx again.
Looks OK. It is what it is I suppose and with my hearing it would be fine, I'm sure! Manufacturer's wattage ratings on these modules can be a tad high but if you keep well in spec they should be good for wee home projects!
I have a Bluetooth version of a similar Class D amp that has mysteriously stopped working. Worked fine when I put it away and now I can connect to the unit using Bluetooth but the amp produces no output.
Sounds like something went pop
The class D amplifiers that don't sound good are those with no or improper filtering between the chip and speakers. Of course the purest people want vinyl records played on hyper expensive turntables and played through a tube type Macintosh amplifier.
These little amp boards are really cool. There are tonnes of them out there now and often for under $20. My problem is that there are plenty of 50 watt by 2 boards, but it's nearly impossible to find either manufactured speakers in boxes/cabinets, or audio drivers for anything close to the same kind of cheap cost. Sure you can buy any sized driver, woofer, sub or tweeter or midrange but each one is going to cost you 3 to 5 times more than the amp board itself and then you have the cost of the cabinet or box build as well. Does anyone out there know of a cheap source for compatible speakers that can handle the up to 50W output that come in near the same cost as these little amp boards? There is so much potential for building portable bluetooth speakers, or even home theater or surround sound systems or just a nice stereo for the shop...but if a guy has to spend 200 bucks on the speakers it kind of defeats the purpose of a $16 amp board. I know old mini system speakers are easy to find at Good Will, Value Village or thrift stores, garage sales and whatever...but those are so often manufactured for looks not sound quality and their power rating is usually 10 or 20 watts max. I'd love to find a cheap source for drivers and build my own boxes and cross overs and so on.
Colin McDonald ,, second hand stores. There a crapshoot, but sometimes you can get lucky. Btw,, you can run 20 watt speakers off of 50 watts, just keep the signal clean from distortion, and amp clipping,, you'll be fine.
hit up walmart sometimes you can find deals for cheap book shelf speakers on the website. also cheap car speakers can and do work well with some cheap enclosures.
The tpa3116 builds in diyaudio forum most came to the conclusion that the 4-500kHz sounded the best. At 1.2MHz it sounded worse and got hotter.
What power supply did you use? What are the specs?
It can run on everything from 6 to 30 volts. It really doesn't care what power supply you give it as it's a class d amplifier.
More like 4.5w . . .
w/o a heat sink?!?
They don't produce much heat. I was running it pretty loud and the chip was only slightly warm to touch into 8 ohms. Mind you I was running at 12 volts so the power would be max about 15 or so into 8 ohms. They rate these all into 4 ohms.
Class d
The tpa3118 is built for using the pcb as heatsink. Tpa3116 is for eksternal heatsink. Its all in the first page of spec sheet from TI.
It's odd how class D amps, once considered a weird quirk, are rapidly becoming the norm for consumer stuff. I get that the efficiency is a big plus these days but I'm concerned about potential RF interference levels... To be fair it looks like on that one, they've made a good effort to filter the output. It's the large number of 'cost optimised' consumer appliances that don't bother with filtering that might be the problem.
Well the filter is what makes it work, but the newer models use a carrier around 1.2mhz which uses a much smaller LC network to filter the carrier out. The low powered amps don't need shielding. The large line operated big amps are all completely shielded to prevent rf interference.
i could use one of those for my lap top.. but wanted to try build a little amp board.. MMMMM I THINK YOU GOT A BOT HOUND'IN YA!!!!(comment before mine!)
Bot is banned