I recently rebuilt the hydraulic pumps for my zero turn mower and no matter how hard I try my bench never looks as neat and organized as Squatch’s. To me, it is a form of art in itself and I appreciate it. Kinda like foldover locks, NOS cosmoline parts, original patina, making tools, drawings, illustrations, the Swamp Angel three ring binder, historical perspectives (see “suits”photo), and story time with Squatch Senior. Most all of the things that I like about this channel. In my opinion the process is as important as the product. Manipulate the algorithm!
I used to work for a guy who held the belief that things should be clean all the time. We wasted more time on pointless to completely counterproductive cleaning than we did actually working. I hated every second of it.
I tried watching a new to me RUclips site and gave up after watching it for a while. The work was shoddy, barely good enough to get by and the fellow seemed to thrive on chaos. No point in watching work like that when I have been spoiled by Squatch 253, Watch Wes Work, I C Weld and Cutting Edge Engineering where things are done right and are as good or better than when they started.
Those saved pieces come in handy. I do the same thing here. I've helped the neighbor get out of the field more than once when his 8N had issues with those saved pieces.
Thanks for the lesson. I appreciate that you take the time to show step by step disassembly/reassembly for a non mechanic. In looking at your older videos you showed the end product of work, but this approach, although slower for you, works well for me.
I viewed a carbureator video for H Farmall done by a nice young lady. The Preparation H video is much easier to follow and covers a couple of things the other one doesn't.This one is very helpful!
I keep a new set of torch tip cleaners with my carb rebuild tools for carb work only. If ever their not there, I'm the guy who forgot to buy a new set while at the welding supply shop!
Great work! If all works out, you may have only to reajust the wear, in the carburetor, you mentioned that, in the last episode. I cant wait to see, how the new/replaced engine head also affect the carburetor ajustings. Greeting from Austria
Obi-Wan Toby, we learn at the foot of the master! This is without a doubt the cleanest carburetor, disassemble and reassemble video I have ever seen! Thank you!
My H is a 1943, so at times, I'll turn on some Glenn Miller when I'm working on it. 😂 Seriously though, my carb kit came with the exact same drain valve. I choose to reuse the original because it didn't leak and looked more correct than the new one. Great tip on the throttle shaft packing! I fiddled with that for an hour, trying to think of a better way than it got done.😆
Always look forward to your videos. I really respect you for your workbench habits...always clean and organized leaving little or no opportunity for mistakes and "do overs"...Outstanding workmanship and results.
Thanks for the video Toby! A nice in-depth reassembly of an H carb. Thanks for the update! She’s coming along nicely! Hope your eye is still improving. My treatments are down to 9 left and can tell it’s working. Ready to be done. Thanks again and can’t wait for the next video!
Another fantastic video Toby! I really enjoy working on carburetors, I help my grandfather with his small engine shop and the ethanol in this new gas is causing alot of problems. It always pays to go the extra mile while cleaning a carburetor. Cheers
I'm sure you did but for those that don't know, back off the main jet prior to snugging up the packing nut to prevent driving the jet needle into the seat too hard.
Toby I'm going to go ahead and confess whenever I rebuilt a carb I'm guilty of stripping one down and soaking it in Berryman and lift it out and take a small gauge wire and clean the passages out and blow it out and then just put it back together. Set everything back like it was and they always ran fine but we didn't have a sand blasting cabinet or the shop next door didn't either so I just cleaned it good well as good as I could and they always seemed to work just fine. Most all I rebuilt were the Zenith carbs because I primarily worked on Massey Ferguson I did do some others but mostly Massey Ferguson because I work at a Massy dealership. But I did like your clean job much better than what I did for a fact. Thanks for the video old friend.
Excellent video the old parts and pieces can be extremely useful in the right situations especially on a old carburetor that is just to get a engine running to check for other issues. Keep up the great videos
also incredibly handy when a "new" piece isnt quite the "quality" of the original. Dont know how good the kits for tractors are, but with old motorcycles, its a well known issue that most of the kits are only good for gaskets, and then only barely
Regarding wire to clean small holes, If you have a musician friend that plays an instrument with strings ask them for the ends when they restring. You get various sizes and the wound ones offer a little texture to scrap the hole without harm. Guitar strings come in various sizes so if you have a few friends that play ask them the size set they use and you will have 2 or 3 different sets of sizes. Guitar strings go down to 0,007. I save mine when I restring.
Invaluable video, Toby. Found out why my H carburetor leaks out the air intake. I'll be rebuilding mine following your most excellent videos to the letter! Thank you!
I landed lucky with my W6 carburetor. As the original carb had jets which refused to budge in it and pretty badly worn throttle and choke shafts, i decided to look for a 2nd hand replacement and was fortunate to find one in the UK (US items were stupid money) I did purchase a rebuild kit beforehand but, when i opened the carb up, i discovered it was in fact a brand new carb which must only have been used for a few years. Gave it a thorough clean and reassembled with new gaskets from the kit. Couple of things i did differently from yourself Toby was to place all the old external fittings onto the carb for painting and, once dried, removed them and fitted the new items. I thought it looks much smarter. Another tip if i may be so bold as to offer you was on the throttle screws. If, as you mentioned, someone has ragged the threads on the screws, i simply got a good flat file and filed the threaded parts off and the screws came out with ease. I have had to do this on a couple of occasions and is quite simple. Great to see your progress on the old 'H' 🏴🇬🇧
Really amazing how simple 80 year old things are but worked so good and lasted forever not the case nowdays good work and save those old parts might save you one day
There is something about these air fuel mixture devices I find most interesting.. they kind of rank highest of all engine parts .. at least for me. ^^ Most beautiful work (as always;) ) .. Can't wait to see this one running. Greetings and good health / recovering !!
I have had one of those screw starters in my work shirt pocket for nearly 40 years and yes I love it. Now that I'm retired and don't wear a work shirt just T shirts, so often I find I miss it and the other handy things that were always in my shirt pocket protector. I should tell my wife to buy T shirts with pockets.🤔😉
Those pipe cleaners are super saviors for carb work. 3:11 i'm 100% the same. I keep everything. Not just for potential spares, if they're decent, but also for reference. It has saved my bacon a few times. Some parts are basically unobtainium as time goes on. One thing i do extra, if i have a new gasket and i'm about to replace the old one and it's not coming out integral, i do a 1:1 copy of the good gasket and slip the paper in the bag with the rest of the bits. That way, i have a master of that gasket as it was from the mothership. Also, a print like that (if you use old tonner type printers) can be transferred to the gasket material with an iron. You make a copy on high contrast, place it face down on the gasket material and iron it. You'll have a perfect outline transferred to the gasket paper.
You said in the video that should one or both of the throttle shaft/plate screws vibrate loose, they would simply fall into the fuel bowl, but looking at the finished product, they could possibly get sucked up into the intake tract.
You really owe it to yourself to get a little zinc plating kit from Caswell. Paint and primer easily sticks to zinc. You do a fine job cleaning up these parts. At that point you're just a few seconds away from these bits being in as-new condition and protected for the long haul.
Great video 👍 dont know about anyone else but theres something oddly satisfying about stripping a dirty worn carburettor and cleaning it and repairing it and seeing this gleaming part on the bench in front of you to the extent it seems a shame to paint it 🤔😀👍
20:27 pro tip: make sure the lever is square to the end of the needle valve. A nice 90 degree angle. If it's at an angle, it cants the needle which can* cause flooding. *Not every time. But enough where it's worth getting it right.
Good instructions on carburetor rebuild. That screw starter looks just like the one that resided in my shirt pocket for 30 years. I used it almost every day for the first 15 years when I was the tune up and carb. tech at the dealership. As vehicles no longer had points it got used slightly less, but the magnetic end came in handy. It still resides in my tool box.
2:01 there's one other method that doesn't involve cutting the whole surface which in time can result in breaking the part (not this one specifically). And it's to use graphite (or a felt tip marker pen) to figure out the high spot and only focus on that spot using a small piece of sand paper on a flat piece of metal - so that you can put the other end on the opposite lip of the thing you're sanding. Repeating the process a couple of times reveals these high spots and you only sand those away until you get an even surface. Again, not this carb in particular, the distance isn't that relevant, but there are others where cutting that distance in time will result in it not working quite right as it represents a critical surface. Plus, at least in my eyes, focusing on the high spot is less work, the little bump goes away fast when you focus on it alone. Jm2c.
Guitar metal string wires are great for this job also. Get the ends that are cut off when new strings are put on the guitar. They come in different sizes.
Wait… you forgot the detent ball!!! Just kidding I couldn’t resist the opportunity. Question to the fellow members, is anyone else having trouble not getting notifications from Squatch? I’m getting public feed notifications but not the members.
Unfortunately this has been an ongoing "bug" in the RUclips system for a few years now, with no real action taken by the Mothership to address it, nor anything that we can do from our end to make it much better either.
Hey Enjoyed the carb rebuild video. I observed some technics that I will use when I do one. The sandblasting gave it a nice finish. I had to buy a new one for my C113 as the old one was too far gone to save. It just crumbled when I tried removing threaded parts inside. Only thing was the ugly greenish/Gray finish on the new one from Steiner. I didn't want to tamper with it in any way in case there was a problem as far as warranty. I had to get a replacement 3 times on hydraulic strainers that were leaking as a result of poor solder joints where the temp sensor screws in. When that last one leaked I fixed it myself. So I got 3 stainers for $100 LOL. Thanks for your videos.
Lol loved the video Squatch I remember rebuilding all of my dad's carbs on all his F series Mc Cormick Deering and farmalls and his IH 245 utility and his old Oliver AG 6 dozer/crawler. All down drafts except the IH 245 utility
A set of torch tip cleaners works well to clean small carburator passages I also bought several long 1/4" drive screwdriver bits from my Snap -On dealer and have ground the ends to fit the slots in the brass jets and emulsion tube on B+S Flo Jets to prevent damaging them when I work on them.
Always save anything that might be helpful or hard to find one day. I have a couple boxes filled with little bags of miscellaneous stuff. As always that’s for another video
What factors make the carburetor settings differ on yours vs the manual? I know some minor adjusting is necessary, but your settings seem drastically different
Many people get wrong how the up draft carburetors work. Unless your a Model A or T owner. Most people just struggle with these carburetors like it's a Jet engine. To me it seems the main body on the H carburetor is made out of cast iron? If it was pot metal aka a alloy and zinc mixture. Than what I have learned with that design carburetors is that many times the surfaces are untrue. Pot metal itself is fragile and prone to breaking. Not to mention there are lot of them that look similar but the numbers on the carburetor may tell it's a different thing altogether. So if you ever rebuild one and it has a tag, leave it there so the next person has a easier time. This H carburetor was probably one of the best examples to use as learning/teaching material.
@@squatch253 I have seen a old Ford A carburetor that had freeze cracked cause water managed to get past the fuel ball. Usually nothing else bad happens to the cast iron part. Pot metal on the other hand can corrode away if it's exposed to water and moisture for a long period of time.
Hope you can or are past eye issues & can devote a little effort to Rock Crusher, maybe 15 min here or there with your tractor frequent videos. Havent seen a vintage crusher restoration. Best wishes for your new year.
Thanks! The rock crusher is definitely on the list, but I'll give you a situational recap on it so that you'll know what to expect moving forward - because of its location (and the decision I've made not to move it again because of its weight lol) it gets snowed in for all of the winter months, so it would only be a fair-weather outdoors type of thing. The other main factor that's been keeping it on the back burner is that I'm still trying to get the new shed built over on that property, but building costs are still higher than I'd like - although it's starting to look like they're going to stay there. Once the new shed is up, that'll make it a lot easier to do work on the crusher because I'll have a place for tools, jacks, hoists, etc. as well as storage for a lot of the parts that will be coming off of it.
You don't use anything on the carb gasket? I always have. My Father did, too; he had a military issue can of "gasoline resistant gasket grease" that he'd...liberated... from the aircraft engine maintenance shop at Roswell AAFB in 1949 or so. The stuff is like a very sticky wax; the engine mechanics used it primarily on the cylinder head gaskets on the B-29's big P&W radial engines. It never dries out, and you can always get a gasket off intact, but.... NOTHING gets past the stuff. I inherited the can when Dad died, but I'd been using the stuff on my engines for years before that. A little goes a very long way; after almost 70 years of use? At least 90% of the can is still there... I always figured, if it will seal the head gaskets on a huge radial engine with enormous pressure - and 150 octane gas -, it will seal the gaskets on any engine I use...
B-29's has Wright engines. R-3350's And they didn't have cylinder head gaskets. Aircraft cylinder heads are cast aluminum, and they are threaded onto steel cylinder barrels. They are not removable unless you heat them sufficiently to unscrew them from the barrel.
@9:45 It might be a camera lens artifact but that idle air needle nut slot looks to be at a random angle... is that something your aesthetic sensibilities can tolerate? The lens also makes your screwdriver alignment with screws look... screwy!
Hello Squatch, So happy to see you doing your video's again. Makes me wish I was doing a rebuild right with you. Question. During the disassembly you had to pry apart the holding clamp on the float bowl pivot pin. In reassembly you did not clamp that pin. Is this due to that pin cannot move enough to cause a problem? Great video. Thank you.
The difference here is that during disassembly, both pieces were just dirty enough to want to stick. After cleaning the float pivot bracket and getting a new shiny pin, they fit together perfectly with just a slight drag 👍
I never toss out old carb parts either one day there won’t be a new part available and all we will have left if good condition used stuff. One question, did you glyptol the insides of that carb? Or is the red color original inside. Thanks
The red color is the red primer that was put on everything during the last rebuild, and what was left of it on the inside of the air intake opening was still in such good shape that I decided to leave it 👍
We’ve got one, but rarely does it ever get used. In this case, almost all of the internal pieces were replaced with new ones so I didn’t have much to clean 👍
I have a 1953 super m that needs a new throw out bearing, do I have to split the tractor to replace it? It has the belly hydraulic pump. I plan on replacing the clutch disc and pressure plate at the same time. Do you have a video of this process? Glad to see your eye is healing
Squatch: What brand is the long lasting lube you used on the shafts. Thanks, David Adair Oh yeah liked your video, I have '31 Fords and their carb is much simpler. D
do you mark each bag with what it is for? good for the next guy who won't know what it is. also, do you have trouble with the carburetor becoming magnetized and having any metal bits like shavings staying in the carburetor?
I don’t label anything, due to the extreme likelihood that there won’t be a “next guy” still interested in any of this old stuff after I tip over - it’ll all probably just go in the trash when they clean the buildings out. Not trying to be negative, that’s just where this old iron hobby is heading. I haven’t had any issues with carburetors becoming magnetized yet 👍
I use what’s called “Black Blast” on steel & cast iron, it’s a sharp and aggressive grit media that really cuts through rust and old paint. I buy it in 50lb bags at my local Northern Tool store. I save the old media that has become dull for use on aluminum, like magneto housings, etc.
Covered that in Episode #23 of this series (with contact info) at the 10:15 mark here - ruclips.net/video/4htXPRwlc-8/видео.html The Evergreen Restoration gauges are by far the highest quality I've found anywhere, you will not be disappointed!
Nope that’s just a red oxide primer that was sprayed on everything at the last rebuild, it was still in very good shape inside the air inlet opening so I just left it alone in there 👍
I recently rebuilt the hydraulic pumps for my zero turn mower and no matter how hard I try my bench never looks as neat and organized as Squatch’s. To me, it is a form of art in itself and I appreciate it. Kinda like foldover locks, NOS cosmoline parts, original patina, making tools, drawings, illustrations, the Swamp Angel three ring binder, historical perspectives (see “suits”photo), and story time with Squatch Senior. Most all of the things that I like about this channel. In my opinion the process is as important as the product. Manipulate the algorithm!
I don't think I could have a nice clean work bench like his even if I paid someone to do it 😂
Yes, but we all have the brains of mere mortals.
Disassemble, repair and reassemble is considered success.
Hopefully no extra parts.
I used to work for a guy who held the belief that things should be clean all the time. We wasted more time on pointless to completely counterproductive cleaning than we did actually working.
I hated every second of it.
I tried watching a new to me RUclips site and gave up after watching it for a while. The work was shoddy, barely good enough to get by and the fellow seemed to thrive on chaos. No point in watching work like that when I have been spoiled by Squatch 253, Watch Wes Work, I C Weld and Cutting Edge Engineering where things are done right and are as good or better than when they started.
100% agree!@@rogerschlitter5116
Those saved pieces come in handy. I do the same thing here. I've helped the neighbor get out of the field more than once when his 8N had issues with those saved pieces.
Thanks for the lesson. I appreciate that you take the time to show step by step disassembly/reassembly for a non mechanic. In looking at your older videos you showed the end product of work, but this approach, although slower for you, works well for me.
Agreed 100%
I viewed a carbureator video for H Farmall done by a nice young lady. The Preparation H video is much easier to follow and covers a couple of things the other one doesn't.This one is very helpful!
We like to use torch tip cleaners. They vary in size for the passages and have nice knurled ends to really get grease and grime out.
Excellent idea that I hadn’t thought of doing 👍
I keep a new set of torch tip cleaners with my carb rebuild tools for carb work only. If ever their not there, I'm the guy who forgot to buy a new set while at the welding supply shop!
When he makes it all look easy, that means he’s ready good!
Great work! If all works out, you may have only to reajust the wear, in the carburetor, you mentioned that, in the last episode.
I cant wait to see, how the new/replaced engine head also affect the carburetor ajustings.
Greeting from Austria
Obi-Wan Toby, we learn at the foot of the master! This is without a doubt the cleanest carburetor, disassemble and reassemble video I have ever seen! Thank you!
My H is a 1943, so at times, I'll turn on some Glenn Miller when I'm working on it. 😂 Seriously though, my carb kit came with the exact same drain valve. I choose to reuse the original because it didn't leak and looked more correct than the new one. Great tip on the throttle shaft packing! I fiddled with that for an hour, trying to think of a better way than it got done.😆
Always look forward to your videos. I really respect you for your workbench habits...always clean and organized leaving little or no opportunity for mistakes and "do overs"...Outstanding workmanship and results.
Thanks for the video Toby! A nice in-depth reassembly of an H carb. Thanks for the update! She’s coming along nicely! Hope your eye is still improving. My treatments are down to 9 left and can tell it’s working. Ready to be done. Thanks again and can’t wait for the next video!
Another fantastic video Toby! I really enjoy working on carburetors, I help my grandfather with his small engine shop and the ethanol in this new gas is causing alot of problems. It always pays to go the extra mile while cleaning a carburetor. Cheers
I'm sure you did but for those that don't know, back off the main jet prior to snugging up the packing nut to prevent driving the jet needle into the seat too hard.
Toby I'm going to go ahead and confess whenever I rebuilt a carb I'm guilty of stripping one down and soaking it in Berryman and lift it out and take a small gauge wire and clean the passages out and blow it out and then just put it back together. Set everything back like it was and they always ran fine but we didn't have a sand blasting cabinet or the shop next door didn't either so I just cleaned it good well as good as I could and they always seemed to work just fine. Most all I rebuilt were the Zenith carbs because I primarily worked on Massey Ferguson I did do some others but mostly Massey Ferguson because I work at a Massy dealership. But I did like your clean job much better than what I did for a fact. Thanks for the video old friend.
After this video, I am confident that I could perform the same task and end up with a quality part! Great video!
Excellent video the old parts and pieces can be extremely useful in the right situations especially on a old carburetor that is just to get a engine running to check for other issues. Keep up the great videos
also incredibly handy when a "new" piece isnt quite the "quality" of the original. Dont know how good the kits for tractors are, but with old motorcycles, its a well known issue that most of the kits are only good for gaskets, and then only barely
Regarding wire to clean small holes, If you have a musician friend that plays an instrument with strings ask them for the ends when they restring. You get various sizes and the wound ones offer a little texture to scrap the hole without harm. Guitar strings come in various sizes so if you have a few friends that play ask them the size set they use and you will have 2 or 3 different sets of sizes. Guitar strings go down to 0,007.
I save mine when I restring.
Invaluable video, Toby. Found out why my H carburetor leaks out the air intake. I'll be rebuilding mine following your most excellent videos to the letter! Thank you!
I landed lucky with my W6 carburetor.
As the original carb had jets which refused to budge in it and pretty badly worn throttle and choke shafts, i decided to look for a 2nd hand replacement and was fortunate to find one in the UK (US items were stupid money)
I did purchase a rebuild kit beforehand but, when i opened the carb up, i discovered it was in fact a brand new carb which must only have been used for a few years.
Gave it a thorough clean and reassembled with new gaskets from the kit.
Couple of things i did differently from yourself Toby was to place all the old external fittings onto the carb for painting and, once dried, removed them and fitted the new items. I thought it looks much smarter.
Another tip if i may be so bold as to offer you was on the throttle screws.
If, as you mentioned, someone has ragged the threads on the screws, i simply got a good flat file and filed the threaded parts off and the screws came out with ease.
I have had to do this on a couple of occasions and is quite simple.
Great to see your progress on the old 'H' 🏴🇬🇧
Really amazing how simple 80 year old things are but worked so good and lasted forever not the case nowdays good work and save those old parts might save you one day
Its really a shame they have passed so many laws that stuff can't even be built like this any more even if needed.
Excellent and thorough presentation I tried following the instructions supplied with my kit and is missing much of what you presented. A+++
I know a guy that needs to watch this today. Thank you for posting it.
Beautiful work and when it comes to rebuilding a carb, a little OCD is a good thing.
Unless totally worn out and unusable I keep antique parts as you never know when they will really become obsolete and impossible to find .
That’s my thinking as well, I’ve already seen that happen with some things in the vintage Caterpillar world 👍
The most detailed carb video I have watched in a while.
Carb lessons from a professional are always helpful and informative.
Just rebuilt my 1946 Farmall H carb, thank you. This was extremely helpful.
This will definitely be a re-watch when i get to rebuilding my Farmall H! Great video, thanks!
There is something about these air fuel mixture devices I find most interesting.. they kind of rank highest of all engine parts .. at least for me. ^^ Most beautiful work (as always;) ) .. Can't wait to see this one running. Greetings and good health / recovering !!
I have had one of those screw starters in my work shirt pocket for nearly 40 years and yes I love it. Now that I'm retired and don't wear a work shirt just T shirts, so often I find I miss it and the other handy things that were always in my shirt pocket protector. I should tell my wife to buy T shirts with pockets.🤔😉
I love welder torch tip cleaners for those small spaces in the carb.
Those pipe cleaners are super saviors for carb work.
3:11 i'm 100% the same. I keep everything. Not just for potential spares, if they're decent, but also for reference. It has saved my bacon a few times. Some parts are basically unobtainium as time goes on. One thing i do extra, if i have a new gasket and i'm about to replace the old one and it's not coming out integral, i do a 1:1 copy of the good gasket and slip the paper in the bag with the rest of the bits. That way, i have a master of that gasket as it was from the mothership. Also, a print like that (if you use old tonner type printers) can be transferred to the gasket material with an iron. You make a copy on high contrast, place it face down on the gasket material and iron it. You'll have a perfect outline transferred to the gasket paper.
You said in the video that should one or both of the throttle shaft/plate screws vibrate loose, they would simply fall into the fuel bowl, but looking at the finished product, they could possibly get sucked up into the intake tract.
Blue Point had some pretty good ideas, screw started. I also like your old Mac black handled little screw driver. Pretty cool stuff sir!
I sure miss rebuilding those old carbs.
You really owe it to yourself to get a little zinc plating kit from Caswell. Paint and primer easily sticks to zinc. You do a fine job cleaning up these parts. At that point you're just a few seconds away from these bits being in as-new condition and protected for the long haul.
Great video 👍 dont know about anyone else but theres something oddly satisfying about stripping a dirty worn carburettor and cleaning it and repairing it and seeing this gleaming part on the bench in front of you to the extent it seems a shame to paint it 🤔😀👍
20:27 pro tip: make sure the lever is square to the end of the needle valve. A nice 90 degree angle. If it's at an angle, it cants the needle which can* cause flooding.
*Not every time. But enough where it's worth getting it right.
Good instructions on carburetor rebuild. That screw starter looks just like the one that resided in my shirt pocket for 30 years. I used it almost every day for the first 15 years when I was the tune up and carb. tech at the dealership. As vehicles no longer had points it got used slightly less, but the magnetic end came in handy. It still resides in my tool box.
Very nice, and meticulous as usual.
2:01 there's one other method that doesn't involve cutting the whole surface which in time can result in breaking the part (not this one specifically). And it's to use graphite (or a felt tip marker pen) to figure out the high spot and only focus on that spot using a small piece of sand paper on a flat piece of metal - so that you can put the other end on the opposite lip of the thing you're sanding. Repeating the process a couple of times reveals these high spots and you only sand those away until you get an even surface. Again, not this carb in particular, the distance isn't that relevant, but there are others where cutting that distance in time will result in it not working quite right as it represents a critical surface. Plus, at least in my eyes, focusing on the high spot is less work, the little bump goes away fast when you focus on it alone. Jm2c.
Guitar metal string wires are great for this job also. Get the ends that are cut off when new strings are put on the guitar. They come in different sizes.
Wait… you forgot the detent ball!!! Just kidding I couldn’t resist the opportunity.
Question to the fellow members, is anyone else having trouble not getting notifications from Squatch? I’m getting public feed notifications but not the members.
Unfortunately this has been an ongoing "bug" in the RUclips system for a few years now, with no real action taken by the Mothership to address it, nor anything that we can do from our end to make it much better either.
@@squatch253 thanks for the information. I would have felt bad if you were excluding me personally. lol.
Happy new year.
You do excellent camera work for a blind guy.
Hey Toby,,thanks for the tutorial. You make it look easy.
Hey Enjoyed the carb rebuild video. I observed some technics that I will use when I do one. The sandblasting gave it a nice finish. I had to buy a new one for my C113 as the old one was too far gone to save. It just crumbled when I tried removing threaded parts inside. Only thing was the ugly greenish/Gray finish on the new one from Steiner. I didn't want to tamper with it in any way in case there was a problem as far as warranty. I had to get a replacement 3 times on hydraulic strainers that were leaking as a result of poor solder joints where the temp sensor screws in. When that last one leaked I fixed it myself. So I got 3 stainers for $100 LOL. Thanks for your videos.
Thank you for such a meticulous instructive video. I look forward to all your videos!
Lol loved the video Squatch I remember rebuilding all of my dad's carbs on all his F series Mc Cormick Deering and farmalls and his IH 245 utility and his old Oliver AG 6 dozer/crawler. All down drafts except the IH 245 utility
Excellent tutorial on carb reassembly!
I found the episode entertaining, I found the episode helpful and I had a doggone good time watching it!
Thanks for the video.
A set of torch tip cleaners works well to clean small carburator passages I also bought several long 1/4" drive screwdriver bits from my Snap -On dealer and have ground the ends to fit the slots in the brass jets and emulsion tube on B+S Flo Jets to prevent damaging them when I work on them.
Should run like a champ!
Nice job! Always learn something... this time, a "Welch plug!" Never knew they were called that!
Nice episode, Squatch
I will never have to rebuild one of these (or any) carbs, but now I think I could.
It might even work afterwards.
Always save anything that might be helpful or hard to find one day. I have a couple boxes filled with little bags of miscellaneous stuff.
As always that’s for another video
Don’t know how I missed this when it first came out
Squatch. Thank You for a great year in educational video's ! Wishing you a Happy New Year........ Rick. McMurray, PA.
Good Video
Glad to see you back in the shop. Great and informative video as always.
Great tip on installing the choke shaft seal
Excellent two part carb videos!!
I would be tempted to put a clear finish on it - all that beauty of cast iron and brass
What factors make the carburetor settings differ on yours vs the manual? I know some minor adjusting is necessary, but your settings seem drastically different
love the clarity of the carb reassembly thank you
Many people get wrong how the up draft carburetors work. Unless your a Model A or T owner. Most people just struggle with these carburetors like it's a Jet engine. To me it seems the main body on the H carburetor is made out of cast iron? If it was pot metal aka a alloy and zinc mixture. Than what I have learned with that design carburetors is that many times the surfaces are untrue. Pot metal itself is fragile and prone to breaking. Not to mention there are lot of them that look similar but the numbers on the carburetor may tell it's a different thing altogether. So if you ever rebuild one and it has a tag, leave it there so the next person has a easier time. This H carburetor was probably one of the best examples to use as learning/teaching material.
Yes just the Venturi in this carb is pot metal, the housings are cast iron.
@@squatch253 I have seen a old Ford A carburetor that had freeze cracked cause water managed to get past the fuel ball. Usually nothing else bad happens to the cast iron part. Pot metal on the other hand can corrode away if it's exposed to water and moisture for a long period of time.
Excellent tutorial. Absolutely love yor attention to detail.
Hope you can or are past eye issues & can devote a little effort to Rock Crusher, maybe 15 min here or there with your tractor frequent videos. Havent seen a vintage crusher restoration. Best wishes for your new year.
Thanks! The rock crusher is definitely on the list, but I'll give you a situational recap on it so that you'll know what to expect moving forward - because of its location (and the decision I've made not to move it again because of its weight lol) it gets snowed in for all of the winter months, so it would only be a fair-weather outdoors type of thing. The other main factor that's been keeping it on the back burner is that I'm still trying to get the new shed built over on that property, but building costs are still higher than I'd like - although it's starting to look like they're going to stay there. Once the new shed is up, that'll make it a lot easier to do work on the crusher because I'll have a place for tools, jacks, hoists, etc. as well as storage for a lot of the parts that will be coming off of it.
Thoroughly enjoyable!
I HAVE NOT, ever, had good luck rebuilding carberators.
Wick in locktite is good for butterfly screws
Your eye is looking a lot better, how are you feeling and thanks for the posting, I learnt some things about carb settings....
I have seen the throttle plate screws soldered in place for a lock too. I think my cranking engine on my D2 was that way.
Yep most Cat pony carbs I’ve seen have the solder around the butterfly plate screws 👍
Awesome video and job. Are you going to cover all that brass? Sure would pop against the red paint .
You don't use anything on the carb gasket? I always have. My Father did, too; he had a military issue can of "gasoline resistant gasket grease" that he'd...liberated... from the aircraft engine maintenance shop at Roswell AAFB in 1949 or so. The stuff is like a very sticky wax; the engine mechanics used it primarily on the cylinder head gaskets on the B-29's big P&W radial engines. It never dries out, and you can always get a gasket off intact, but.... NOTHING gets past the stuff. I inherited the can when Dad died, but I'd been using the stuff on my engines for years before that. A little goes a very long way; after almost 70 years of use? At least 90% of the can is still there... I always figured, if it will seal the head gaskets on a huge radial engine with enormous pressure - and 150 octane gas -, it will seal the gaskets on any engine I use...
B-29's has Wright engines. R-3350's And they didn't have cylinder head gaskets. Aircraft cylinder heads are cast aluminum, and they are threaded onto steel cylinder barrels. They are not removable unless you heat them sufficiently to unscrew them from the barrel.
I did find it helpful still intimidating but helpful. have you ever used a a torch tip cleaner? your thought on it?
@9:45 It might be a camera lens artifact but that idle air needle nut slot looks to be at a random angle... is that something your aesthetic sensibilities can tolerate?
The lens also makes your screwdriver alignment with screws look... screwy!
Well done nice detailed explanation Toby
Hello Squatch, So happy to see you doing your video's again. Makes me wish I was doing a rebuild right with you. Question. During the disassembly you had to pry apart the holding clamp on the float bowl pivot pin. In reassembly you did not clamp that pin. Is this due to that pin cannot move enough to cause a problem? Great video. Thank you.
The difference here is that during disassembly, both pieces were just dirty enough to want to stick. After cleaning the float pivot bracket and getting a new shiny pin, they fit together perfectly with just a slight drag 👍
Awesome!
Happy New Year Squatch!
Nice job on the rebuild and the filming I felt like I was there !!!! I may have missed you say but where did the master kit come from ???
Steiner Tractor Parts 👍
Very helpful thanks
Great Details - Thanks.
I never toss out old carb parts either one day there won’t be a new part available and all we will have left if good condition used stuff. One question, did you glyptol the insides of that carb? Or is the red color original inside. Thanks
The red color is the red primer that was put on everything during the last rebuild, and what was left of it on the inside of the air intake opening was still in such good shape that I decided to leave it 👍
Good job done well love the content!
Thank for sharing!
Are u going to mask the new brass fittings on carb before painting might add a little extra shine to it
Yep! 👍
Interesting
Hi Toby, have you ever considered an ultra sound cleaner. They say it's incredible effective espesially for carburettors.
We’ve got one, but rarely does it ever get used. In this case, almost all of the internal pieces were replaced with new ones so I didn’t have much to clean 👍
I have a 1953 super m that needs a new throw out bearing, do I have to split the tractor to replace it? It has the belly hydraulic pump. I plan on replacing the clutch disc and pressure plate at the same time. Do you have a video of this process? Glad to see your eye is healing
Squatch: What brand is the long lasting lube you used on the shafts. Thanks, David Adair Oh yeah liked your video, I have '31 Fords and their carb is much simpler. D
Carb been Squatched,,now it's better!!
Great video. In an older video I believe your dad use sealant on gaskets for the two halves. Do you prefer to not use sealant? Thank you
Making sure both surfaces are perfectly flat eliminates the need for sealer as a backup :-)
@@squatch253 Okay sounds good!!
Love your videos, as always.
do you mark each bag with what it is for? good for the next guy who won't know what it is. also, do you have trouble with the carburetor becoming magnetized and having any metal bits like shavings staying in the carburetor?
I don’t label anything, due to the extreme likelihood that there won’t be a “next guy” still interested in any of this old stuff after I tip over - it’ll all probably just go in the trash when they clean the buildings out. Not trying to be negative, that’s just where this old iron hobby is heading. I haven’t had any issues with carburetors becoming magnetized yet 👍
Odd question but where do you get your blue rags or what brand are they? I can never find a good source for them. Thanks in advance!
Do a search for “blue huck rags” and you’ll find them available for sale on Amazon, etc. They’re the same rags that are used in the medical industry 👍
Awesome, thank you!
What media do you use in your blasting cabinet ?
Parts look very nice.
I use what’s called “Black Blast” on steel & cast iron, it’s a sharp and aggressive grit media that really cuts through rust and old paint. I buy it in 50lb bags at my local Northern Tool store. I save the old media that has become dull for use on aluminum, like magneto housings, etc.
It looks like the kit only needed gaskets for this carb.
Where do you get your gauges from? I haven’t had any luck with Steiner ones they seem to be junk
Covered that in Episode #23 of this series (with contact info) at the 10:15 mark here - ruclips.net/video/4htXPRwlc-8/видео.html
The Evergreen Restoration gauges are by far the highest quality I've found anywhere, you will not be disappointed!
@@squatch253 thanks!
Did I see Glyptol™️ on the interior surfaces?
Nope that’s just a red oxide primer that was sprayed on everything at the last rebuild, it was still in very good shape inside the air inlet opening so I just left it alone in there 👍
Do you use Loctite on the choke screws ?
In this case I didn’t Loctite anything, but sometimes I will depending on where it’s located.